I Ate the State – Spokane County

Downtown Spokane as seen from Edwidge Woldson Park

I spent my formative years in the eastern part of Washington. Specifically, in the dry, desert climes of Pasco, which is part of the Tri-Cities. A very key route in and out of the Tri-Cities is US-395, which is where my most recent adventure to Spokane County begins. Come along as I journey through this big-sky part of the state.

Sure, there are areas of western Washington with big, stretching skies, but there’s nothing like coming over Snoqualmie Pass on I-90 and descending into the Ellensburg area. The sky opens up, the mountains fall behind you, and you realize you need to turn on the AC or heat, depending on the season. There is definitely not as much rain on this side of the Cascades.

For this trip, I took I-90 over Snoqualmie Pass and made my way towards the Tri-Cities via I-82 and I-182. Once in Pasco, I met up with my dear friend, Kerri, and we headed out on US-395 to I-90 at Ritzville and on towards Spokane. I hadn’t been to Spokane in a while and Kerri had spent several years living in the area. It’s always nice to have an area expert on board – AND a longtime friend. Adventures were afoot! (or in a car)

  • Pro Tip: Always check the WSDOT for pass reports and road status regardless of time of year. If it’s not a snowstorm in the winter, it might be long delays for roadwork in the summer. Rock blasting anyone?!

There are also many other ways to get to Spokane County, depending on your starting point. You’ve got your US Route 2, which goes all the way to the UP in Michigan, and the stunning North Cascade Hwy SR-20 in Okanogan County to US-395 near Barney’s Junction. If you’re coming from Canada, it’s a 2.5 hour drive from Grand Forks, BC to Spokane on US-395. Idaho, you say? It’s a quick hop across the border on I-90 from Post Falls or nearby Coeur d’Alene. So many ways to get to Spokane!

  • Hot Tip: Want to earn some local cred? It’s pronounced Spo-CAN, not Spo-cane. For an excellent primer on Spokane, be sure to listen to the song Spokane’s Not Dumb. (Also included in my playlist at the end of the article) It’s one of the best songs about Spokane EVER.

I have many fond, and some not-so-fond memories, of US-395 and the drive towards Spokane. My first tax-paying job came at age 14, picking up litter with the WSDOT Ecology Youth Crew. We spent a lot of time alongside US-395 picking up copious amounts of trash. Throw in rattlesnakes, truckers honking their horns, questionable/unmentionable discarded items, having to wear a hardhat, gloves, and boots in +100 degree heat… FUN! I rocked that job for 4 seasons before moving to the glamorous world of fast food. I even wrote a song called Litter Bug Blues during my litter crew tenure. Perhaps one of these days I’ll get around to recording it… Maybe for the road trip album I’m planning for my I Ate the State project… (You’re welcome.)

Looking at the pictures above, you may see stretches of… a whole lotta nothing… of wide open, rolling brown browniness… While that can certainly be the case, especially during the hot months, there is much beauty to be found in all of that open space. I’ll admit to ignoring much of it when I was younger, preferring the green of the western side of the state. However, visiting as an adult and finally taking the time to really explore the open areas, I’m struck with just how much beauty, diversity, history, and adventure exist around every corner.

Once such area to be found off the concrete swath of US-395 is the 130-mile Columbia Plateau Trail State Park. If you’re headed east on I-90, take Exit 245 at the town of Sprague. Follow along SR-23 to Sprague Hwy Road E to Williams Lake Road, which then becomes E Williams Lake Road. The trail actually starts in Spokane and ends near Pasco with many points of entrance along the way, but this entrance provided a nice distraction from the freeway. (Discover Pass required in park.)

Following the quiet backcountry roads, we wound our way down to the scenic Downs Lake area. Along the way, there were areas to join the trail and take off on horseback, should you have the four-legged means. The examples of flora and fauna along the way are beautiful, with desert flowers, grazing cows, and interesting rock formations dotting the landscape.

When we arrived at the lake, we were greeted with lovely views of mountain ridges and lakefront access. I’ll cover more of the area in my upcoming Lincoln County article, but it certainly was a nice to take a break from the concrete and enjoy some of the solitude of this part of the state.

After spending some more time on I-90, we came upon our destination of Spokane County and its namesake, the city of Spokane. Named after the Native American Spokane People, it serves as the county seat and largest city in the county as well as largest city east of the Cascades. Spokane is indeed quite a sight after the long, browniness drive. Both Yakima and the Tri-Cities are good-sized areas, but Spokane holds the crown in the eastern part of the state for city-style living. It had been a while since I’d visited Spokane and I was looking forward to a new adventure and checking out how its grown in recent decades.

Home to the Spokane Tribe of Indians for millennia, the Spokane area has been instrumental as a place of trade and passage in this part of the country. With the establishment of a North West Company depot in the early 1800s, trade was opened up from the Inland Northwest to Canada. The area was brought to further prominence with the addition of rail expansion in the latter 1800s. This brought Westward expansion and an influx of European immigrants to the area, which spurred further development in the area, including logging and mining. The city was officially incorporated as Spokane Falls in 1881, and ten years later as simply Spokane.

In more modern times, Spokane has continued to play an important part in America’s development and traditions. Did you know Father’s Day was founded in the Spokane area? True story! Local resident, Sonora Smart Dodd was the creator of the holiday with the first Father’s Day celebrated on June 19, 1910, in Spokane. The holiday didn’t become nationally recognized until 1966 when President Lyndon Johnson signed a presidential proclamation, followed by President Richard Nixon making it official in 1972. Father’s Day has fallen on the third Sunday of June every year since.

Important note: While not as nationally significant as Father’s Day, the Spokane area was also host to the Uncle Dan’s ranch dressing operation for many decades. (It actually started in Yakima, my home town, in 1966. I am genetically predisposed to crave ranch dressing. That’s just science.) Now also an American tradition, ranch dressing can be slathered over most foods. Veggies, meats, pastas… cookies… (I once ate chocolate cookies dipped in Uncle Dan’s on a dare. Not horrible.) They are now located in nearby Hayden, Idaho, but will always be from Yakima and Spokane in my heart and belly. Hidden Valley Ranch is fine, but The Dan is much better. Fight me.

Heading into the downtown Spokane area after spending a couple of hours in the brown surrounds of I-90 is quite an adjustment. Tall buildings, interesting architecture, hotels, restaurants, theatres, bridges – all the city things are on display! Kerri and I had decided to splurge on our hotel, so we took an exit which would bring us directly into the heart of the city.

I’d visited the Historic Davenport Hotel on past trips but had never stayed there. It was always a little too rich for my artist funds. Fast-forward to actually having a savings account, and a good friend along for the adventure, we decided to split the costs and live it up. Treat yourself!

After parking and emerging into the hotel lobby, we were greeted with a warmth and grandeur rarely experienced in modern hotels. There was much history here, and you could feel it. Times-past lived on in this place and it felt like being immersed in a living story. It was hard to get through the check-in process, albeit short, as I immediately wanted to start exploring!

Built in 1914, the Davenport has played an important role in Spokane’s history and as part of the National Registry of Historic Places, has a wealth of history to share. From grand celebrations to visiting dignitaries, the hotel has charmed guests throughout most of the twentieth century. After falling into decline, it was closed in 1985 and barely avoided demolition. Lovingly and painstakingly being restored to its former glory, it reopened in 2002 to great fanfare. Even if you’re just stopping in to grab a cup of coffee in the hotel lobby, the Davenport is well worth a visit. (Although, in the spirit of treating oneself, I’d recommend a leisurely weekend or at least a summer cocktail on the Roof Garden Terrace.) Located in the heart of the downtown Davenport Arts and Entertainment District, it’s an excellent base for your artistic explorations.

Walking through the halls and peeking into the beautiful ballrooms is akin to being in an interactive museum. Just wandering around showcases Spokane’s history and provides a trip abroad via the hotel’s lavish Renaissance and Spanish Revivals stylings. The ballrooms transport you back in time and the architectural detail and design are stunning. I clearly should’ve packed a gown rather than my standard NW adventure attire. Next visit!

If you happen to be feeling peckish, the hotel offers delicious dining opportunities. Check out the appropriately named Peacock Room Lounge for a classic cocktail and meal. It’s said the delicious Crab Louie salad was possibly invented at the Davenport in its early days – and is on the menu to this day. (Named after the original proprietor of the hotel and local businessman, Louis Davenport.) There’s also the grand Palm Court Grill for a lovely breakfast, lunch, or dinner, easily accessed on the main floor of the hotel. They even do afternoon tea! Should you simply be looking for a good cup of coffee and a pastry, head to the Emporium, located in the lobby area.

While I’m fairly certain the Davenport will remain at the top of my list for future Spokane visits, there are indeed other hotels to check out in the downtown area. In addition to the Davenport, Marriot Bonvoy also now operates the Davenport Lusso, the Davenport Tower, and the Davenport Grand. On my next visit, I plan to head to the Davenport Grand to check out the steaks at Table 13. (Open for dinner only)

In addition to the Davenport/Marriott affiliated hotels, there are many other great options in the downtown area. A few places to consider on your next visit to Spokane:

Note: The Davenport Lusso is temporarily closed for renovations and will reopen in February 2025.

While getting settled into the area around the Davenport, we checked out a few nearby spots. I’ll formerly cover restaurants later in the adventure, but some of our initial discovery might’ve required… treats. We’d planned on driving around the downtown area and randomly seeing what we could see, but you can’t just jump in without the proper fuel. Honestly.

A stop at Bruttles Gourmet Candy Shoppe should be considered a must on any Spokane visit. Their famous Soft Peanut Butter Brittle candy is DELICIOUS and I could eat it every day. Another must on any visit to Spokane is the Spokandy Chocolatier shop. Their Pastel Mints are amazing and should generally be kept away from me. That said, I recently found them at a very cool candy shop in Bothell, the Sugar Rush Candy Store. DANGER. And should you maybe want some fuel for the mind, don’t miss Spokane’s sprawling literary staple, Auntie’s Bookstore.

All fueled up with treats, we jumped in the car and pointed our wheels in no particular direction. Whenever visiting a new town, I always love to just drive or generally wander around with no agenda. Or map. Every once in a while, I’ll bust out the GPS to reorient myself, but I’ve found wandering about is usually a great way to happen upon amazing sights. And remember, not all those who wander are lost…

Some of the interesting spots we happened upon during our maiden voyage in downtown Spokane:

As we continued our wanderings, we found ourselves rambling through some of Spokane’s oldest and most stately neighborhoods. I’d played a few shows in Spokane over the years and on a couple of occasions stayed with some very gracious hosts in these neighborhoods. I have very fond memories of the grand vistas and well-established, tree-lined streets.

Containing many homes on the National Registry of Historic Places, the Brown’s Addition neighborhood is Spokane’s oldest. Featuring many grand homes and mansions built in the early 1900s, this part of town was also home to the Spokane People for millennia prior. While driving around the neighborhoods, it was easy to get caught up in another era.

During our wandering, Kerri steered us towards a beautiful spot in the nearby Marycliff-Cliff Park Historic District. Filled with more stately locales, it’s a great place for a larger view of Spokane. Looking out over the downtown core from Cliff Park and Cliff Drive was an excellent way to check out the scene. We also drove by Edwidge Woldson Park which features a fantastic view, rugged basalt fissures, and lovely Ponderosa pines. On my next visit to the park, I plan to check out the Tiger Trail as well as the Moore-Turner Heritage Gardens. (Built between 1889 and 1932.)

Next up on our agenda was to check out the childhood home of famous entertainer, Bing Crosby. Before entertaining the world, he spent his formative years in Spokane. Born in 1903 in Tacoma, his family moved to the Spokane area in 1906. During this time he and his family lived in the area of Gonzaga University and the University District. In his teen years, Bing Crosby attended the university before eventually leaving in 1925 for Los Angeles and worldwide stardom.

Founded in 1887, the beautiful Gonzaga campus features not only the Crosby home, which is now a museum, but also the Jundt Art Museum and Myrtle Woldson Performing Arts Center. Whether you’re a student, a lover of the Arts, or simply on a random drive around town, the Gonzaga campus is definitely worth a visit.

One of the most prominent and vital areas of downtown Spokane is the beloved Riverfront Park. Set alongside the scenic Spokane River and Spokane Falls it is a must-visit part of downtown. Serving as an integral part of the area for hundreds of years, the area was a popular tribal fishing area and continues to remain an important part of Native American life. In the late 1800s and into the mid-1900s, the area was known as Havermale Island and supported much business and industry, including railways, rail depots, and more.

Festooned by sturdy basalt rock, the area supports two dams and is home to the country’s largest urban waterfall. The island in the center of the river, known as Snxw Island (Salish for “salmon people” and named by the Spokane Tribe ) is an important and beautiful core to the river scene. A visit to the island is a great way to learn more of local history and take in the natural beauty of the area.

By the 1960s, city leaders were looking for a way to revitalize the Havermale Island area. The city successfully put in a bid to host the World’s Fair and plans were underway. As the smallest city to host a World’s Fair, there was much work to do and planning to perfect. Much of Havermale Island was razed and construction for the first environmentally-themed World’s Fair, Expo ’74 took shape. As part of the agreement to hosting an environmentally-themed fair, it was planned to create a park out of the area after the fair’s end. Today’s Riverfront Park is the happy result of this provision.

The now iconic Spokane Pavilion at the Riverfront was a featured part of the fair. It was a gift to Spokane from the federal government and served as the US Federal Pavillion during the fair. It maintains its importance to the downtown area to this day and hosts many events as well as the ongoing Pavilion Light Show on weekends.

The Clock Tower and ’74 Expo Pavilion at Riverfront Park

With pedestrian bridges joining the north and south parts of the park, the area is incredibly accessible and filled with many sightseeing and adventure-filled opportunities. If you’re driving, the Post Street Bridge & Monroe Street Bridge (c. 1911 and on National Registry of Historic Places) provide access to and around the park. Should you be in search of a more adventurous journey to the park, check out the 64-mile Centennial Trail. This two-state trail visits Nine Mile Falls, Riverside Park, Liberty Lake, and Spokane Valley, extending 24-miles into Idaho, via Post Falls and Coeur d’Alene.

Playing host to much of the city’s festival and events scene, the park is central in both location and in the heart of Spokane. There’s something to do and see any day of the year. For your next Spokane visit, consider some of these Riverfront Park highlights:

  • The Spokane Lilac Festival takes place on the second Saturday of May, culminating on the third Saturday with a giant parade. This festival is an important occasion in Spokane and features many events, including a brewfest. (May 10-17, 2025)
  • Feel like stretching your legs? Leading up to the Lilac Festival, the Bloomsday run is an annual 12k race which stretches throughout Spokane. (May 4th, 2025) 
  • Running during the summer and early fall months, celebrate all things the Bard at the popular Shakespeare in the Park.
  • Hit up the Pig Out in the Park festival over Labor Day for great music, food, beer gardens, and public market booths. Running since 1979, this multi-day free festival is an excellent way to head into fall.
  • I’m a sucker for a carousel and the beautiful Looff Carousel is one of my favorites. Growing up, friends would tell me of their weekend Spokane trips and grabbing the ring on the carousel. I was always envious and SO excited when I finally got the opportunity to take a ride. Giddy up! (On the National Registry of Historic Places)
  • Take a lovely walk throughout the park and enjoy a bit of artwork on the scenic Sculpture Walk. Along the way, do NOT miss the very awesome Garbage Goat. Designed for Expo ’74 by local artist Sister Paula Mary Turnbull, known as the Welding Nun, it eats garbage via a button press/vacuum mechanism. It even has its own Facebook page. I love the Garbage Goat!
  • I’m a big fan of gondolas as it usually means I’m on a ski hill. You don’t, however, have to don skis to enjoy the Numerica Skyride Gondola. Get on board and enjoy a beautiful ride over the Spokane River, Spokane Falls, and under the Monroe Street Bridge.
  • Bring your skates or grab a rental pair and check out the Numerica Skate Ribbon. The rink features roller-skating, roller-blading, and skateboarding in the warm months and ice-skating in the winter. They also have firepits to accompany all of your hot chocolate needs.
  • The Great Northern Clocktower was almost torn down in 1974 as part of the Expo planning, but was thankfully saved. It was part of the Great Northern Railway Depot, which was demolished in 1972 as part of the Expo work. It stands as a soaring tribute to Spokane’s industrial history.
  • While not technically part of Riverfront Park, don’t miss Huntington Park for a beautiful view of Lower Spokane Falls. (Walk down the stairs underneath the Gondola.) Along the way, check out the historic Post Street Electric Substation (Washington Water Power building, c. 1910 – on the National Registry of Historic Places) If you’re looking for a little Science and discovery, stop by the Mobius Discovery Center during your explorations.

In addition to Riverfront Park, there are many other options for entertainment in the downtown Spokane area. Live music, theatre, museums, and much more can be found throughout the city. A few options to further your love of the Arts:

  • Included on the National Registry of Historic Places, the Art Deco Fox Theater has been an artistic core of the Spokane community since 1931. Fully and beautifully restored in 2007, the theatre features an ongoing roster of performances and is the home of the Spokane Symphony orchestra.
  • Originally known as The Clemmer and an important force in the development of American cinema, the Bing Crosby Theatre is a Spokane classic. Having been fully restored in 1988, it now supports all manner of performance and the Arts. (c. 1915 and on the National Registry of Historic Places)
  • You can find the Spokane Jazz Orchestra performing at the Bing Crosby Theatre throughout the year. Featuring local, northwest, and national artists, the SJO is a driving force in bringing all things Jazz to the Spokane area.
  • Many stellar bands have performed at New York City’s popular NW satellite, the Knitting Factory. Regularly featuring music and dance parties, the venue is one of the top venues in the area. Dining and drinks are available at their District Bar.
  • Should you be looking for a bit of fine arts action, head to the Northwest Museum of Arts & Culture, located in the Browne’s Addition neighborhood. Founded in 1916 and an affiliate of the Smithsonian, this well-curated museum is a great place to enjoy the NW art scene and more.
  • Maybe you want your Spokane Arts experience to be more participatory? Stop by The Ridler Piano Bar & Music House in downtown for a fun night out. Featuring dueling pianos along with drinks and small plates, join in and leave your worries on the doorstep.
  • If you happen to be feeling lucky, head about 15 minutes west of downtown to the West Plains area and hit up the Northern Quest Resort & Casino or the Spokane Tribe Resort & Casino. Big bucks, no whammies!

Spokane has a large number of tasty restaurants from which to choose. Whether you’re downtown, up on hill, or in a suburban area, Spokane has you covered. Other than my youthful dining experiences and some hazy, late-night affairs when in town to play shows, I haven’t been able to really investigate or enjoy Spokane’s restaurant scene. To say I was happy to be in town with the express purpose of checking out the city and eating good food, is definitely an understatement.

My 12-year old self fondly remembers the quirky C.I. Shenanigans as the height of Spokane dining, but since it abruptly closed in 2012, I was unable to relive my childhood glory. (I call shenanigans!) Thankfully, The Old Spaghetti Factory is still holding down the fort of my childhood favorites and is located in the downtown area for all your pasta needs. While maybe not the height of Italian fine dining, it’s got a quirky charm about it. And I’ll always be a sucker for their brown butter and mizithra pasta. (I still mourn the loss of the Seattle Spaghetti Factory location.)

Another favorite of my earlier days is the classic Clinkerdagger. I remember when this restaurant came to the Tri-Cities with much fanfare. It used to be known as Clinkerdagger, Bickerstaff, and Petts and I recall a local radio station running a contest to see how many times – or how fast? – you could say the name. If you were fancy in the Tri-Cities, that’s where you went, especially if you were on a date. It’s also where my obsessive love of crème brulee began. Fast-forward a few decades, it’s no longer in the Tri-Cities, but can still be found in its original location in Spokane. Crème brulee for all! (or as it’s known on the Clinkerdagger’s menu, burnt cream.)

Clinkerdagger is located in the historic Flour Mill building (c. 1895), which hosts many shops and businesses and is worth a visit in and of itself. Relatedly, be sure to check out the Wonders of the World shop. It reminds me of the original, pre-fire Ye Olde Curiosity Shop on the Seattle Waterfront and is filled with quirky treasures. (Anyone in need of a 50,000 year-old cave bear skeleton?)

Clinkerdagger’s is also filled with quirky wonder and features an Old English themed décor. The classic dishes compliment the classic décor and there’s something tasty for everyone. This beloved eatery also features an outdoor patio and an appropriately darkened bar area. Try the BURNT CREAM. (Okay, fine. The rest of the menu is pretty tasty as well.)

Alrighty. I’ve covered some of the hot spots of my formative years. As my tastes have continued to broaden over the years, here are a few more restaurants to add to the list:

  • Also taking advantage of the river scene, the Osprey Restaurant & Bar is located next to Gonzaga University and features breakfast, lunch, dinner, AND BBQ. Does the menu also say crème brulee? Yes. Yes, it does! Additionally, they also feature a dinner and show series in conjunction with the Myrtle Woldson Performing Arts Center next door.
  • This northwest classic showcases all things seafood and a great view of the falls. Head to Anthony’s at Spokane Falls for tasty meal and don’t forget to try their… BURNT CREAM! (It’s a theme!) I’m also pretty fond of their chowder and their “3-course dinner” option.
  • I haven’t been able to visit Luna yet, but it’s high on my list for my next Spokane adventure. The dinner menu looks fantastic and highlights local ingredients and seasonal menus. They also have a “Forty-dollar Martini” on the menu. While my wallet might not be intrigued, I am… (Shut up, Dayna’s wallet – It comes with accoutrements!)
  • Also on my list for next visit is the modern French restaurant, Francaise. I’m always on the lookout for a good Croque Madame or Duck à l’Orange and both are on their menu. Along with… Crème Brulee!! I’ll be stopping by… Located in the Perry District of the South Hill area.
  • Also located in the Perry District, The Shop serves great coffee, baked goods, fancy cakes, local craft items, and more! Back in the hazy part of my memory bank, I remember visiting The Shop while in town to play a show. The fact I can remember any of it is probably largely due to their great coffee…  
  • Not only do they have unicorn in their name, the Gilded Unicorn has a TATOR TOT CASSEROLE. And deviled eggs! And while they don’t have crème brulee, they do have chocolate lava cake, so Imma let it slide. And they love unicorns! Open for happy hour and dinner every day.
  • Should you want to enjoy a beer and cuddle a puppy, stop in at Bark – A Rescue Pub and enjoy the love. Not only do they have a great tap list and pub food menu, they partner with the Spokane Humane Society to help find homes for rescue dogs and cats. (Note: The dogs and cats live in a separate but accessible area and can be visited before, during, and after your visit.) Open daily for lunch and dinner with brunch on the weekends.
  • If you happen to be looking specifically for tasty breakfast and brunch spots, there are several great options to choose from in the area. Don’t miss a visit to Washington’s oldest dining car restaurant, Frank’s Diner. (c. 1906) The original location is downtown, but they can also be found in North Spokane. Molly’s Family Restaurant comes highly recommended by Kerri and her family. Bringing classic diner fare to the table, this popular local spot can be found downtown, not too far from the Steam Plant. Also close to the Steam Plant, the charming Rosie’s Restaurant features breakfast classics and more.

Another classic in the area is Zip’s Drive-in. Located in several Spokane-area spots as well as Idaho, this delicious institution was founded by Robert “Zip” Zuber in Kennewick in 1953. (Tri-Cities represent!) Interestingly, this was the same year McDonald’s opened in California. However, they’re both beat out by In-N-Out which opened in 1948 in California. Old-school burger credit where old-school burger credit is due. (Special message to In-N-Out: I hear you’re finally coming to Portland. This is great, but please come to Seattle. Thank you. Special message to Zip’s: No disrespect. You will always have my heart. Also, please come to the west side of the state.)

My first job in the food industry was at 15, directly after my tenure ended with the litter crew. As mentioned above, the first location was – and still is – in Kennewick by the Cable Bridge. I chose, however, to work in the action-packed location by the area mall, the Columbia Center. (aka: The Center.) I have many incredibly fond memories of my mom and I taking on a hard day of bargain-shopping at the mall and wrapping it up with some tasty burgers and a tub of extra-crispy fries at Zip’s… Ahhhh, such good memories…

I can’t tell you how many of said “tubs” of extra-crispy fries with tartar sauce I’ve eaten, but I know it’s a large number. Throw in a Papa Joe or Belly Buster, and one of their handmade shakes, and you’re in business. I do, however, much lament the fact their Dog-Gonner no longer appears to be on the menu. A cheeseburger with two halved/grilled hot dogs, and toppings… DIVINE. Although, since Zip’s isn’t a franchise, each location does have some menu variations. I’m holding out hope that at least one of the locations still has this delicious concoction on their menu. A girl can dream. And you know how much I love hotdogs. (IMPORTANT UPDATE: The Zip’s located in Ritzville has the Dog-Gonner on the menu. SCORE!!)

Sunny days, outdoor dining, river and lake scenes, an arid climate… What are things that compliment wineries, breweries, and a great restaurant scene? Spokane easily answers the question and has no shortage of dining and top-shelf adult beverage opportunities. Whether you’re interested in wine tasting, a robust brew pub scene, or a distillery, Spokane has your back.

Feel like celebrating the amazing northwest wine scene? Consider one – or several – of these great tasting rooms on your next visit:

  • Located in the Kendall Yards area of Spokane, the Maryhill Winery & Tasting Room features a great view of the river and downtown along with some award-winning wines and tasty small-plates. I’m particularly fond of their Grenache and Chenin Blanc wines. And if you happen to be visiting Maryhill Winery during mid-May through late-September, be sure to stop in at the Kendall Yards Night Market (5pm – 8pm, seasonally) If you’re interested in visiting the actual vineyards, head to Goldendale and the Klickitat County area and enjoy some quality time on the Columbia River.
  • The vineyards and winery are located in Benton City, but Terra Blanca also has a lovely tasting room in downtown Spokane. Featuring varietals from the famous Red Mountain AVA, everything I’ve tried from this winery has been fantastic. Located in the historic Chronicle Building.
  • The main winery operation for Barrister Winery can be found in a beautifully restored building in the downtown area. (c. 1908 – on the National Register of Historic Places) They also have a tasting room located across from the Davenport Hotel, next to Auntie’s Bookstore. In addition to wine, they also feature live music on Wednesdays and Fridays throughout the year, as well a gallery showcasing local artists.
  • Located in the East Downtown Historic District, the boutique winery Robert Karl Cellars features several award-winning wines created with Washington state varietals. I’m a fan of their Claret and Sauvignon Blanc wines.
  • Located just over from the Fox Theatre in downtown, Helix Wines features wines made with PNW varietals. They are related to Walla Walla’s Reininger winery and also have a tasting room in the Walla Walla area.

In the mood for a cold frosty one? Maybe looking to do a pub crawl? No problem! Check out these options:

  • I haven’t been able to visit the No-Li Brewhouse yet, but I do like their beer. (Try the Corner Coast Golden Ale or the Lager!) Located in the university district near Gonzaga and the Spokane River, their Brewhouse and Bier Hall look extremely cool.
  • Featuring beer and a “Run Club,” Uprise Brewing is located in the Kendall Yards area. Do some cardio with the Run Club and then enjoy some tasty beer and food! A perfect combo. (Note: I’m a big pilsner fan, and theirs is pretty tasty.)
  • I love Locust Cider & Brewing Co. I wasn’t able to get to their downtown taproom, but I’ve been a longtime patron of their taproom in Woodinville. Along with their ridiculously delicious ciders, this location also features a small menu including pizza. Founded in 2015 in Washington, they’ve now expanded their cideries and taprooms to Colorado. I love their Dry Cider. Get a growler! (family friendly)
  • Though temporarily closed due to renovations at the adjacent Davenport Lusso hotel, the Post Street Ale House is a great place to enjoy a pint and tasty pub fare. They’re scheduled to reopen in 2025.
  • Not to be confused with the infamous Garbage Goat of Riverfront Park, Iron Goat Brewing serves up locally crafted beer and pub eats. No garbage involved. They do, however, feature a Goatmeal Stout. I’m intrigued by the Bob’s Your Uncle robust porter. Next visit!
  • Located appropriately on South Perry Street, Perry Street Brewing features locally-crafted beer and food in a family friendly setting.
  • Should you want to add a pub crawl to your day consider hopping aboard the Spokane Party Trolley with a group of your 21+ pals. Peddle your way to local bars and eateries in very unique style.

Perhaps you just need a classic martini or a straight up shot of whiskey. (or whisky – your call!) It’s always a good idea to enjoy a hand-crafted cocktail on a summer day. Or spring… And fall… Definitely in the winter… Check out one of these spots next time you’re in Spokane:

  • Located in the Washington Cracker Building in the East Downtown Historic District, the Hogwash Whiskey Den specializes in craft cocktails, whiskey flights, and a very delicious food menu. (Whiskey Barrel-aged Shoyu Ramen or Okonomiyaki Tater Tots anyone?? YES, PLEASE.) They also have the names of their bartenders and chefs featured on their website. Props!
  • The nationally successful Spokane distillery Dry Fly Distilling features many excellent spirits. I’m a fan of their gin and their Straight Washington Wheat Whiskey is delicious. I haven’t had the chance to sample their onsite food offerings, but the menu looks quite intriguing. They also offer cool cocktail making classes as well classes like “Distill your own gin.”
  • Located in the heart of downtown, the very hip Bistango Martini Lounge offers expertly shaken or stirred martinis and several very tasty, sharable small-plates. Kerri and I very much enjoyed visit to Bistango. Another round, please!
  • If you’d like to celebrate the end of the National Prohibition Act, stop in at Volstead Act and victoriously imbibe. Located in the downtown area, this very cool bar features craft cocktails and a very nice whiskey/whisky list. Cheers to the 21st Amendment! May forever it pour.
  • Perhaps before or after your visit to the aforementioned Volstead Act, stop in next door at the Cochinito Taqueria and choose something from their very tasty looking menu. They also have a good looking drink menu. Next trip!

Well, that was a lot of talk about delicious food and drink. Maybe we should work some of it off at one of the Spokane area’s many surrounding parks and recreation areas. Just walking around downtown or exploring one of Spokane’s many charming neighborhoods is always a good plan, but nearby Riverside State Park offers many great outdoor distractions.

In a nutshell, there is A LOT to do at Riverside State Park and its surrounding areas. After just a 25-minute drive north of downtown Spokane you’ll find camping, cabins, canoe and kayak spots, a boat launch, fishing, and more! Did I mention there’s also mountain biking, hiking, ORV trails, rock-climbing, snowshoeing, x-country skiing, and snowmobiling?? And MORE! Set alongside the Spokane and Little Spokane Rivers, Riverside Park has it all! (Discover Pass required)

In case you’re not exhausted from your visit to Riverside State Park, there are many more outdoor opportunities very close by! Check out these adventure-filled spots:

  • Don’t miss nearby Nine Mile Falls or a hike to the overlook of the historic Nine Mile Dam (c. 1908) via the Centennial Trail. (Dam!) (Always looking for a chance to work in my dam(n) joke…)
  • If you’d like to do some fishing in an idyllic location, head to Lake Spokane (Long Lake) and drop in your line. There is camping at the Bowl and Pitcher in Riverside State Park, but there’s additional camping and day-use areas up the road at Lake Spokane Campground.  (Fishing license required)
  • If you’re looking for a literal horse-powered adventure, check out Pacific Northwest Guided Trail Rides for year-round guided horseback rides through Riverside State Park. They even have sleigh and carriage rides during the winter!
  • For some adventure bonus points, be sure to explore the Spokane River Water Trail as it winds its way through the above areas.
  • Relatedly, there are a lot of rafting opportunities on Spokane area rivers. One of the popular outfits is Wiley E. Waters Whitewater Rafting. Apparently there’s an area called the “Devil’s Toenail” on the Spokane River Whitewater trip. Yep, I’m gonna need to check that out. There’s also a Spokane Wine & Dine trip. I’m IN. Next summer visit.
Hop onto the Centennial Trail from Riverfront Park

Outdoor pursuits are a big part of the PNW and Spokane County definitely has much to offer. I’m a huge fan of skiing and hiking and there are some fantastic options around the Spokane area – and into neighboring Idaho. There is a year-round abundance of outdoor opportunity to be found throughout Spokane County.

Clocking in as the largest state park in Washington state, Mount Spokane State Park has a whopping 100 miles of trails in and around the beautiful Selkirk Mountains. This includes Mount Kit Carson and the Mount Spokane Ski & Snowboard Park. Part of the park and a non-profit ski hill, Mount Spokane is a beautiful area to explore throughout the year. You might even see a moose!

If skiing is your thing (okay, fine – snowboarding, too), head out of Spokane via SR-206. After upwards of an hour’s drive from downtown Spokane (weather dependent), you’ll arrive at the scenic Mount Spokane ski area. Skiing has been part of the area since the early 1900s, with the Vista House at the Mount Spokane summit being built in 1933. (on the National Registry of Historic Places) Adding to its historical stakes, the world’s first double chairlift opened on the mountain in 1947. In addition to two day lodges, they also have a mountain tap house and yurt! Who doesn’t love skiing up to a mountain yurt, popping off your skis, and grabbing a beer?? Dreamy. (Discover Pass required in summer, Sno-park permit in winter, but not at ski hill. There is snowmobile parking NE of the currently closed Bear Creek Lodge which requires a Sno-park permit.)

If you’re up for a little more mountain action, be it winter or summer, here are a few more options for you to explore in the greater Spokane – and Idaho – areas:

  • Another wonderful ski hill close to Spokane is 49° North, located about an hour and fifteen minutes out of downtown Spokane. Along with Mount Spokane, it is known as one of the lesser-crowded ski areas in the PNW. The ski hill is located off of US-395 in Chewelah, WA. (part of the Colville National Forest)
  • If you’re interested in what Idaho has to offer, head to the Sand Point area and visit Schweitzer Mountain. In addition to great skiing and winter activities, they also have lodging, summer events, and a spa. (Upwards of a two-hour drive from Spokane)
  • Slightly closer and not too far across the border in Kellogg, Idaho, Silver Mountain Resort offers winter and summer activities as well as lodging and a spa. (About an hour and fifteen minute drive from Spokane)

If you’re visiting in the Spokane area during the summer and are looking to do some hiking, consider exploring these scenic options:

  • The Mount Kit Carson Trail is a 7.5 miles round-trip trail which starts in the park and heads directly to the summit of the area’s second tallest peak, Mount Kit Carson. There’s also the option to hit up two mountain peaks by continuing on Trail 160 to nearby Day Mountain. (Discover Pass required) Note: This is a year-round trail and is shared with snowmobiles in the winter.
  • For a longer, more strenuous look at area mountains, head to the Three Peaks Loop trail. This 12.6 mile round-trip hike takes you to Mount Kit Carson, Day Mountain, and Mount Spokane. Depending on time of year, there are huckleberries to be picked. (and possibly some bear also enjoying the berries…) (Discover Pass required)
  • If you’re looking for something more mellow or family friendly, check out the Burping Brook – Smith Gap Loop. It’s an easier-going 5-mile round-trip trail which highlights the deep forests of the area.
  • I love checking out the old fire lookouts of the state. Many of them allow overnight reservations and the fire lookout on Quartz Mt. Fire Lookout within the park is one such location. I haven’t visited this one yet, but it’s high on my list. High, like a fire lookout… (Discover Pass required)

Spread out to the east of Spokane proper, lies the always growing Spokane Valley area. It would be completely easy to fill up a few days exploring the city of Spokane, but the same could be said of adjacent Spokane Valley. A combo pack perhaps? That’s exactly what Kerri and I did with our visit and it was amazing to experience the diverse offerings of the greater Spokane area.

Getting to Spokane Valley is easy! Hop on I-90 East out of Spokane proper and you’ll arrive in the Spokane Valley in no time. (In general, let’s say 15 minutes from downtown Spokane to the Spokane Valley core.) There are many things to do, see, eat, and drink when visiting Spokane Valley. Here are some of my favorites as well some places on my future-visit agenda:

  • I love museums which showcase local history and development. The Spokane Valley Heritage Museum is one such place. It has great displays, is well laid out, and is overall very interesting. However, don’t attempt to take any pictures inside the museum. Don’t do it.
  • Celebrate the entire Spokane County and nearby Idaho at the annual Spokane County Interstate Fair. It occurs the Friday after Labor Day for 10 days and is a celebration of all things Spokane County and close-by Idahoan towns. Agriculture, farming, animals, tractors, fried foods, rides, music, and MORE!
  • For a celebration of all things Spokane Valley, don’t miss the yearly Valley Fest every September. Local festivities are highlighted by local pageantry, music, a car show, local vendors, and more!

I think my love of an old-school burger joint is well-established at this point. If not, I am happy to continue my research and further highlight this great love affair. To support this dedication, we stopped at the classic Ron’s Drive-inn while adventuring through Spokane Valley. My burger was delicious and I’m looking forward to a triumphant return on my next visit. Fairly close by is another old-school burger spot called the Thrifty Scotsman. I didn’t get to visit this time, but I’ll hit up their tasty looking burgers on my next trip into town. No trouble at all.

In addition to old-school burgers, there are a few more Spokane Valley spots I’ll be checking out on my next visit:

  • Perched on a dramatic basalt cliff overlooking the Spokane Valley, the Arbor Crest Wine Cellars and Cliff House Estate have much to offer. This historic property (c. 1925) formerly known as the Royal Riblet House, features wine tasting, dining, music, and ongoing events.
  • Long-established on the Washington state wine scene, Spokane Valley’s Latah Creek Wine Cellars is open daily and features both indoor and outdoor tasting settings and opportunities to visit their onsite wine-making operation.
  • I’d visit Natural 20 Brewing Co. based solely on their name. Nerds unite! This brewery hosts gaming events, trivia nights, and more. Find them at their Spokane Valley Taproom or in their Downtown Spokane Taproom & Brewery. I’m looking forward to trying the Mindflayer Sandwich and a pint of their Spirit Sword Belgian Single. Nat 20 FTW!
  • I always love a good farmer’s market. It’s a great way to get to know local artisans and enjoy tasty treats and crafts. Check out the Spokane Valley Farmers Market for just that! (June thru September with a Winter Market in December)

Just another five or so minutes east of Spokane Valley sits the town of Liberty Lake, one of the fastest growing areas in the US. My friend Kerri and her family lived in the area for several years before returning to the Tri-Cities. The area was still fairly small when they moved in, but by the time they moved away it had more than doubled in size. It continues to grow and is a popular area outside of Spokane proper. If you’re visiting the area, don’t miss Liberty Lake Regional Park for camping, swimming, fishing, hiking, and an ORV park. Liberty Lake is also located just a couple minutes’ drive from the Idaho border and the city of Coeur d’Alene.

If you’re looking for a completely idyllic drive through the countryside, you can’t miss a visit to the Green Bluff Growers area. Located a scenic 12-mile drive north of Spokane and perched on a… bluff overlooking the Spokane Valley, this series of thirty farms and businesses is a year-round gem. During our visit, Kerri and I enjoyed a beautiful fall day exploring the area. We hit up everything from farms to tasting rooms to wonderful country shops. If we’d had a little more time, we might’ve even been able to enjoy a good ol’ fashioned corn maze. (Or maize maze? Bwahahahaa.)

There are so many cool spots to check out in the Green Bluff area. Following are some of the ones we were able to visit and some we’d like to check out on our next visit:

  • We loved our stop at Walter’s Fruit Ranch. We were visiting during the Fall Festival and the farm had something for everyone. Fruit, pumpkin picking, family activities, local vendors and artisans – all the country fair things! They also serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner in the Orchard Café and have a great gift selection in their Country Gift Shop – and drinks at their Press Plate bar.
  • The High Country Orchard was a great stop and I could’ve hung out there all afternoon. They have a great country store, cider donuts, music, an outdoor patio, weekend crafts shows, u-pick fruit, and a very charming country-fair atmosphere. Also, apparently there’s a Green Bluff Party Wagon?? (Note to Kerri: NEXT TRIP!)
  • It was such a lovely day on our visit and our stop at Townshend Cellar was sublime. This winery features indoor and outdoor wine tasting opportunities in a very inviting orchard setting. Along with my wine purchases, I also grabbed some charcuterie items for a mini-picnic outside. Lovely.
  • In addition to its many fresh fruit options, Siemer’s Farm is a mecca of all things country farm. Festivals, fresh cider and pizza, the Mt. Spokane Brewery, a great gift shop, ‘lots of kids activities, seasonal vendors, a corn maze, and so much more!
  • Sporting views of Mount Spokane, Beck’s Harvest House looks pretty cool. They’ve got a country kitchen, country store, music, u-pick opportunities, a harvest festival, and a giant corn maze. I’m IN. Next visit!
  • I’m very intrigued by Big Barn Brewing and their self-sustaining operation. They use produce and hops from their farm and brew their own beer. And have an onsite taphouse. Cool! Next visit!
  • While we were driving around the area, I saw a sign for the Green Bluff Candy Company at the Halbig Family Farm. It advertised u-pick caramels! I will definitely be making a visit on my next trip. Those caramels aren’t gonna pick themselves!

Alas, that wraps up our recent adventures in Spokane and the greater Spokane Valley areas. We ate great food, enjoyed delightful beverages, fed the Garbage Goat, stared out over great vistas and mountains, explored history, and generally had an excellent time. We packed quite a bit into that long weekend! It was time to head back to the Tri-Cities desert and begin planning our next visit.

But wait! There was still a little more exploring to do on the way home… Located a short drive southwest of Spokane, college-town Cheney is home to Eastern Washington University. In addition to its student population, it also houses a charming historic downtown core. (on the National Registry of Historic Places) Additionally, since it is so close to Spokane, it is also a reasonable commute for many people working in Spokane who might require a break from the city hubbub.

On your visit to Cheney, consider these spots for your own break from the city hubbub:

  • Learn a little more about the history of Cheney and surrounding areas at the Cheney Historical Museum. Step back in time and learn more about the western expansion into the area.
  • If you’re up for some hiking, wildlife watching, or general sightseeing, head to the beautiful Turnbull National Wildlife Refuge and enjoy the flora and fauna and many landscapes of the area. This large refuge is located roughly 30-minutes from Spokane and just outside of Cheney. Also located close by is a portion of the Columbia Plateau Trail State Park. Don’t miss exploring its beauty!
  • If you’re visiting the Cheney area in May, check out the local May Fest. Live music, food, local artisans, a car show, a CORNHOLE tournament, and more! Who doesn’t love a good game of Cornhole??
  • As is usually the case with college towns, there’s a good restaurant and pub scene. There are definitely a good selection of watering holes in Cheney, in addition to the requisite pizza, BBQ, and pub fare spots. Did I mention they have a ZIPS??

Another town just off of the I-90 corridor and southwest of Spokane is tiny Medical Lake. I keep a very fond spot in my heart for this little burb and hadn’t visited in quite a while. Back in my far-away younger days, I regularly spent summer weeks at the nearby Silver Lake Camp. Sneaking out of cabins at night to visit the boys’ cabins, waterskiing, swimming, doing frivolous crafts… Halcyon days, for sure. Many, many memories came flooding back on our drive through the area.

Unfortunately, Medical Lake recently battled a very extreme fire and is currently working on area repair and reclamation. The town is hanging on and putting a lot of effort into recovery. Stop in on your way through the area and support the local businesses! Some places to hit up on your Medical Lake visit:

  • If you’re looking for a coffee or a baked goods fix, hit up Roam Roasters, Tommy G’s or Lefevre St. Bakery in the downtown area. Lefevre St. Bakery also serves breakfast and lunch and the menu looks tasty!
  • Lean into that caffeine jolt and enjoy a stroll or bike ride along the paved, 2.9-mile Medical Lake Loop trail. (North and south access to the trail from downtown’s Waterfront Park)
  • Support local artisans at the monthly Medical Lake Farmer’s Market. (2025 Winter Market, monthly thru April, located at City Hall)

And now,now we come to the end of our Spokane County adventures. We still had a little more exploring to do off of I-90 and US-395 on the way home, but I’ll save that for my Lincoln, Grant, and Franklin County articles. Amidst the area browniness, there are many more beautiful experiences to be had. Coming soon!

I’m so glad we visited Spokane County and celebrated its many offerings. Both Kerri and I have a lot of great memories of Spokane County over the years. It was eastern Washington’s “big city” of our youth and presented the possibility of big city adventures. It always held a special mystique and spurred our dreams of the fantastic and exciting. And crème brulee and ranch dressing…

Fast-forwarding a few years, it was great to experience the area through an adult, much more traveled lens. I’ve had the great luck to visit many parts of the world in my adult years, but will always come home to Washington state. I love this state and every visit along its highways and byways always surprises me. Experiencing Washington as an adult, I’m able to more deeply appreciate and understand the state’s diverse environments, history, and ongoing development. Spokane County, with its history, big city vibes, small town charms, and beautiful mountains and plateaus, is a wonderful part of the state and I’m looking forward to my next visit. AND, we no longer have to beg our parents to drive us!

Happy travels!

I Ate the State – Spokane County SPOTIFY PLAYLIST

  • Spokane’s Not Dumb – Jake Beal (from Spokane’s Not Dumb)
  • Swinging on A Star – Bing Crosby (from Swinging on A Star)
  • Reelin’ In the Years – Steely Dan (from Can’t Buy A Thrill)
  • Eye in the Sky – The Alan Parsons Project (from Eye in the Sky)
  • Jolene – Zac Brown Band (from The Foundation)
  • Hey Kind Friend – Indigo Girls (from Shaming of the Sun)
  • Jesse’s Girl – Rick Springfield (from Working Class Dog)
  • Rock Lobster – The B-52’s (from The B-52’s)
  • The Spirit of Radio – Rush (from Permanent Waves)
  • Spokane – The Painted Horses (from The Painted Horses)
  • Don’t You Want Me – The Human League (from Dare!)
  • Abracadabra – Steve Miller Band (from Abracadabra)
  • Crimson and Clover – Joan Jett & the Blackhearts (from I Love Rock ‘N’ Roll)
  • Get A Goat – Formidable Vegetable (from Garbage Guts)
  • Spokane Motel Blues – Tom T. Hall (from Tom T. Hall – Storyteller, Poet, Philosopher)
  • Freeze-Frame – The J. Geils Band (from Freeze Frame)
  • Left Hook Like Frazier – The Delines (from Left Hook Like Frazier)
  • It’s Been A Long, Long Time – Bing Crosby (from Bing – His Legendary Year 1931-1957)

Be sure to check out these other I Ate the State adventures:

Note to Readers: I Ate the State receives no form of compensation or incentive from any business, goods, or services covered in any I Ate the State article.

I Ate the State – Lewis County

Welcome back to the adventures of I Ate the State! It’s been a while and I’m happy to be back in the driver’s seat.

One of the two oldest counties in Washington, Lewis County is brimming with history and beauty. The indigenous peoples of the area have called it home for millennia, treasuring its bountiful resources. The beauty of the area encompasses epic mountains, winding rivers, and an ever-evolving volcanic legacy. The modern era hosts a central location for enjoying this history and beauty along with providing much opportunity for the future. Within what many see as a passing, often rainy section of the I-5 corridor between Canada and Oregon, lies a fascinating part of the state waiting to be explored and appreciated.

Originally named Vancouver County in 1845, it was renamed in 1849 after Lewis and Clark explorer, Merriweather Lewis. Suffice it to say, getting to Lewis County isn’t quite the expedition it once may have been. The aforementioned I-5 corridor is likely the most popular way to get to the area with mountainous US-12 and SR-6 from the coastal areas also being well-traveled routes. Since I am presently located in the greater Seattle area, I typically take I-5, but if you’re coming over from east of the Cascades, US-12 is both beautiful and efficient. US-101 along the coast to SR-6 can also make for a lovely excursion into Lewis County. (Pro tip: If you’re coming over US-12 in the winter months, check the pass reports and consider using I-90 as an alternate route.)

Scenic Lewis County
Welcome to scenic Lewis County!

If you’re heading south on I-5 like me, Centralia is the first main city in Lewis County you’ll find. Originally named Centerville and founded by African-American, George Washington, Centralia is the largest city in Lewis County and was incorporated in 1886. Centralia owes much of its success to the foresight and generosity of George Washington, the only African-American to found a town in the northwest. Along with his wife, Mary Jane, Mr. Washington was instrumental in creating the town core as well as generously helping struggling townsfolk during financial and social crises of the day, in spite of racial prejudices.

Having evolved into a more peaceful burg in present times, Centralia experienced its fair share of havoc during its formative years. Check out these areas on your next visit to Centralia to learn more about the history of the area:

  • The downtown area is a designated historic district and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. In addition to being very scenic and charming, it is very walkable. Hit up some of Historic Centralia by foot and take a stroll through time.
  • Visit George Washington Park (c. 1881) in the town square to pay tribute to Centralia’s founding father. The park hosts local events and is also home to the Centralia Timberland Library (c. 1913) and features several statues, including the WW I memorial The Sentinel, by Alonzo Victor Lewis (c. 1924) and statues of town founders, George and Mary Jane Washington.
  • In 1919, the Centralia Massacre occurred between members of the American Legion and Industrial Workers of the World (“Wobblies”) during an Armistice Day parade.  As a result of the bloody fight, six people died, many were wounded, and trials and prison sentences followed thereafter. The location of the conflict took place at 807 N Tower Ave in downtown Centralia.
  • For a glimpse into Centralia in the early 1900s, pop into the Centralia Train Station in downtown Centralia. Built by Northern Pacific Railway in 1912 and now an Amtrak station, it is still serving travelers today.
  • The grand Centralia Fox Theatre (c. 1930), a gem in the downtown corridor, has played host to theatre, cinema, and more during its near 100-year run. This historic theatre is currently being renovated and will hopefully again shine its stage lights.
  • Just a short drive from downtown, head to Fort Borst Park for a look at the historic Borst Home, (c. early 1860s) the blockhouse, (c. 1856) and one-room school replica. In addition to a look back into Centralia’s past, this large park also features modern park amenities as well as sports facilities and a rhododendron garden. It is located at the confluence of the Chehalis and Skookumchuck rivers.
  • Paying tribute to the history of Centralia’s working ladies, the unique Shady Lady Bordello Museum can be visited in the upstairs area of the expansive Shady Lady Antiques. Located in the downtown area, the Shady Lady is a great place to start your exploration of Centralia’s downtown Antique stores.

To set yourself up for exploring Centralia, you’ll need a good place to rest up and refuel. Originally a men’s hotel by the name of The Oxford Hotel (c. 1908 – on the National Register of Historic Places), the Olympic Club Saloon & Hotel now opens its doors to all. Operated by the McMenamins family, the hotel has retained its original grandeur and provides an enjoyable journey into Centralia’s past. The Olympic Club Saloon & Hotel is a great place to stay or to grab a tasty meal. Saddle up to the historic bar and grab one of their namesake beverages, play a game of pool, check out the movie theatre, relax on their outdoor patio – and eat some tots!

Sidebar: Their Cajun tots are delicious. I live next door to the McMenamins Anderson School and it’s dangerous living so close to delicious tots. DANGEROUS.) It should also be mentioned that they offer other delicious fare as well. True story! (Important note: February 2nd is National Tater Tot Day. Just sayin’.)

Since 1983, the McMenamins family has been rescuing and transforming northwest gems and now has over 60 historic locations throughout Oregon and Washington. With each location paying homage to its original purpose and local legends, you can enjoy a great stay and learn about the history of the area. Check out their Passport program which rewards guests for stays and purchases at McMenamins properties. (Including free and/or discounted tater tots.)

If you find your diet requires more than just tater tots (Wait. WHAT??), there are many great dining spots in the Centralia area. Here are a few options to help curb your appetite:

  • Serving Centralia since 1973, Country Cousin offers classic diner fare including breakfast, lunch, and more. Open daily from 7am – 8pm. Don’t’ forget to stop into their “Country Store” gift shop for a piece of country kitsch.
  • A question I will continue to ask is, “Why isn’t there a Burgerville closer to the Seattle area? WHY??” But whenever I’m in the Centralia area, I love their signature marionberry shakes, Walla Walla onion rings, and delicious burgers. YUM! Don’t miss a stop at this northwest institution. (Dear Burgerville, why aren’t you in the Seattle-area? WHY??)
  • While I haven’t yet visited the Berry Fields Café, it comes highly recommended by a longtime local. Their food looks very tasty and I’m looking forward to stopping by during my next Centralia visit. Serving breakfast and lunch, in a very charming location, they’re open daily from 7am to 5pm.
  • Not only does Dick’s Brewing Company feature tasty brews, they handmake and smoke delicious sausage! Hit up their tasting room on Friday & Saturday from 3pm – 7:30pm (+21) to sample the suds and don’t miss grabbing some sausage at their store, NW Sausage & Deli. (Open Monday thru Saturday, 9:30am – 5pm, until 9pm on Fri/Sat. Closed Sunday.)
  • Talk about a classic! Don’t miss Bill and Bea’s Café for a delicious step back in time. Featuring hand-pressed burgers, shakes, breakfast fare and more, this local gem is open daily from 8am to 8pm. (11am on Sundays) Located two blocks west of I-5, off of exit 82. Best Burger in Lewis Co (‘20, ‘21)
  • For a large selection of handmade pizzas, sandwiches, salads, and beer on tap, head to the Tiki Tap House. Open Tuesday thru Saturday, 11:30am – 9pm. (Closed Sunday/Monday)

Big on celebrating the history and bounty of the area, Centralia has several things to keep you entertained, informed, and full throughout the year. A few ideas for your next visit:

  • Located all around downtown historic Centralia, the yearly Antique Fest is not to be missed. The entire downtown core participates and it’s a great time for exploring old and new. The event also features a tasty selection of food trucks and vendors. August 2-4, 2024
  • Who doesn’t love a state fair? Fried foods of every kind, rides, exhibits, animals, music, and more! Every August, the Centralia area gears up for the SW Washington State Fair located conveniently in between Centralia and nearby Chehalis. FRIED FOODS! (August 13th – 18th, 2024)
  • If you’re looking to repel a vampire, improve your kissing game, or maybe make a better spaghetti sauce, head to the Washington State Garlic Fest and stock up! (Located at the fairgrounds, end of August 2024)
  • Located at Pine Street Plaza in downtown Centralia, the Centralia Farmer’s Market features a nice variety of local produce and artisan wares. Operating April thru September from 11am – 5pm. (Possibly into October, weather pending) Be sure to visit their Holiday Market on Fridays thru Sundays, after Thanksgiving thru mid-December, for holiday gifts and treats. (Fri/Sat – 10am to 5pm, Sun – 10am to 4pm)
  • For an experience in all things farming, head to Seedpod Farm. Located on the banks of the Skookumchuck River, Seedpod Farms plays hosts to animals, bees, gardens, crops, and more. Sign up for one of their hosted garden walks, check out The Keystone Labyrinth, and learn about the opportunities associated with their CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) farm share. Don’t miss picking up a flower bouquet from their seasonal flower patch. (Farm visits, classes, and walks are by appointment only) 

Just south of Centralia on I-5, the charming town of Chehalis awaits your visit. There are several exits leading directly off of I-5, but if you happen to be coming from (or going to) Centralia, the Jackson Highway is a great side route to explore. Not only will you avoid the often busy I-5, you’ll get a scenic view of the area. If you happen to be coming north on I-5, you can access this route off I-5 near Gee Cee’s Truck stop. (I-5 Exit 57) It shortly merges with SR-505 near Toledo, passes by Lewis and Clark State Park near US-12 and then parallels I-5 up to Chehalis. Heading towards Centralia, it then turns into N National Ave which splits into N National Ave and NE Kresky Ave which take you to and from Centralia. Whew!

Originally called Saundersville as of 1858 with the establishment of a post office by Schuyler Saunders, it became Chehalis in 1870. Saunders, along with wife Eliza Barrett, moved to the area around 1850. Eliza became quite an important figure in the development of the area and surpassed her first husband Saunders in terms of local importance and character. Using her land gained through marriage to Saunders, she strategically assisted the expansion of the area and used her influence and wealth to create businesses, cultural pillars, and community. In addition to being married several times, which was unusual for the era, she didn’t adhere to the social norms of the day and largely contributed to establishing Chehalis as an important part in the development of Washington State.

While becoming the county seat in 1874, and being officially recognized as Chehalis in 1879, the area has long been home to the Confederated Tribes of the Chehalis Reservation, with their presence predating the town of Chehalis by many years and much history. With the Chehalis and Newaukum rivers converging near Chehalis, this strategic meeting has always provided an important bounty for the area of which the Chehalis tribes, known as the People of the Sands, have been essential stewards.

Trailhead
Near the Willapa Hills Trail Chehalis Trailhead

As you enter the downtown area, it’s easy to see how Chehalis looked in its early days. Many of the buildings in the downtown core are over 100 years old and sit on the National Register of Historic Places. The entire downtown district is in fact on the register. Just a quick drive around town will give you the stately Lewis Co Courthouse (c. 1927), the beautiful Chehalis Timberland Library (c. 1910), the cornerstone St. Helens Hotel (c. 1921), and many more interesting locations. If you’re in the mood to pep up your drive, head to the historic Hillside District and take a walk around John Dobson and McFadden Parks. The drive to get there involves some twisty turns and will take you by the Troop 373 and 7373 Scout Lodge (c. 1937), where you can catch the Dobson-McFadden walking trail, which connects the two parks.

For a more thorough take on the area, head to the Lewis Co Historical Museum and immerse yourself in local lore. Set in what was originally the Burlington Northern Depot (c. 1912), it hosts a great collection of the town’s history. It is also the start of the Historic Downtown Walking Tour should you want to get those steps in. Be sure to note the giant stump near the museum entry. It was originally cut down to accommodate an ultimately cancelled visit by President McKinley, but did host President Teddy Roosevelt in 1903, followed by future president William Howard Taft, and later, VP nominee, Franklin D. Roosevelt in 1920. (Open 10am – 4/5pm. Closed Sunday/Monday. Summer and winter hours vary.)

Adventure brings hunger. Hunger leads to hangry. Hangry leads to the dark side. Don’t let your hunger get the hangry point during your Chehalis journeys. There are some great spots to stop and feed the hangry while in the area. Here are some local favorites:

  • At the very top of my list is the amazing Shona’s Food Company. I would make the drive to Chehalis just to visit this place. Run by the lovely Shona, this delicious spot features foods from Shona’s American/British/Northern Ireland heritage, as well as hand-crafted cheese from the Black Sheep Creamery. The bap sandwiches… The desserts… The hand pies… SO DELICIOUS! (Tuesday – Friday, 6am – 3pm, Saturday, 6am – 5pm) Also in the same building and adjacent to Shona’s is the charming  Ewe and I. Sadly, I never learned to knit, but this place inspires me to fix that issue. (Tuesday – Saturday, 10am – 5pm. Closed Sunday/Monday.)
  • They offer reservations at the always busy Jeremy’s Farm to Table and I highly suggest you make some! Also featuring a market and fruit stand, this tasty spot features breakfast, lunch, dinner, music, and a generally very cool vibe. The market and fruit stand feature local produce, milk, cheese, eggs, meat, bread, etc. (Open Monday – Thursday, 10am – 9pm, Friday to 10pm, Saturday 8am – 10pm, Sunday to 8pm.)
  • While primarily a used book store, Shakespeare & Co. also sells take-away homemade soups on Wednesdays. This lovely spot is also a great place to pick up a good read. (Open Monday – Friday, 11am – 5pm, Saturday and Sunday, 10am, Sunday noon to 4:30.)
  • The classic Shire Bar & Bistro features steak, seafood, and bistro fare. Catering to the area for the past 20 years, this spot is a popular destination for a tasty night out. (Open Tuesday – Friday, 11:30am – 9pm, Saturday 5pm – 9pm. Closed Sunday/Monday)

The next part of Lewis County I’d planned to investigate was west of Chehalis, along SR-6 and towards Pe Ell. That said, on the way out of town and along the way, I found several spots well worth a visit:

  • The oldest, continually lived-in residence in Washington is the McFadden Log House (c. 1859), located in a quiet Chehalis neighborhood. It’s well worth checking out, but as it’s a private residence, you’ll need to do so from your car, as you slowly roll by. Just be cool. And respectful!
  • Stop by the expansive Veterans Memorial Museum, located on the outskirts of Chehalis for a well-curated look at military and veteran history. (Open Tuesday – Saturday, 10am – 5pm. Closed Sunday/Monday)
  • Just around the corner from the Veterans Memorial Museum, is the charming Chehalis-Centralia Railroad & Museum. It was unfortunately closed when I stopped by, but it features a dinner train, an escape room, and seasonal rides, including a Polar Express event in the winter. Their steam engine is currently undergoing repairs, so check online for future departures.
  • If you happen to be in the area during the fall, stop by Willy Tee’s Pumpkin Patch at Teitzel Farm and stock up on decorative pumpkins and gourds as well as lovely sugar pumpkins. (Friday – Sunday, 10am – 7pm during the fall months)
  • Claquato was the original county seat of Lewis County and the quaint Claquato Church is still standing. Built in 1858, it is actually the oldest standing church in Washington State. While original construction plans were for a Presbyterian church, it ended up being consecrated as a Methodist church and school. It’s on the National Register of Historic Places and is well worth a visit. Featuring the original bell, the crown steeple, topped by a crown of thorns, is inspired by New England meeting houses. (Located just off of SR-6, on the way to Adna and Pe Ell.)

Lewis County has its fair share of beautiful landscapes and the route along SR-6 features several examples. Take a break from the four-wheel travel modes and set out in the open, clean air. The epic Willapa Hills State Park Trail goes between Chehalis and South Bend for an adventure-filled 56 miles of biking, walking, and horseback riding. I covered this in my Pacific County article and was happy to explore more parts of the trail while in Lewis County.

If you’re looking for camping, hiking, and fishing opportunities, Rainbow Falls State Park is a great choice. It’s very accessible, beautiful, (it has a fuchsia garden!) and hosts part of the aforementioned Willapa Hills State Park Trail. I spent a couple of hours hanging out by the falls and it was a lovely way to spend a sunny afternoon. (Complete with rainbows!)

Pro Tip: Be sure to get the appropriate licenses before heading out to the parks and trailheads. Get your Discover Pass for state parks and a recreational license if you plan on doing any fishing.

While services and restaurants are more sparsely located in the area, there are indeed some great places to check out. Located just off of SR-6, Adna Grocery is a great place to stock up on groceries, deli foods, and delicious treats – and don’t miss the Doty General Store for a trip back in time. (Also features a post office, antiques, knickknacks, baked goods, etc.) If you’re in need of relaxing, gorgeous farmland views while enjoying a tasty brew, be sure to hit up the excellent Jones Creek Brewing. (Friday 4-8pm, Saturday 12pm – 8pm, Sunday 12pm – 4pm) While Jones Creek Brewing does have light snacks, head just a little further west to Pe Ell and hit up Evey’s Café for homestyle diner far and a full bar. (Daily, 8am – 9pm.)

Since my last visit to the area, the wonderful Owl & Olive café has closed. They do, however, still host weddings and events in their lovely barn, along with delicious catering. The couple who owns the establishment is wonderful and I had a great time hanging out during my visit. I sincerely hope they reopen the café at some point, but in the meantime, check out the annual Ride the Willapa race which starts at the Owl & Olive. (The 2023 race was on Saturday, June 24th.)

Another great way to explore the Lewis County scene while avoiding the I-5 corridor is to jump on Old Hwy 603, south of Chehalis, and head to the Napavine area. It’s a lovely drive along this two-lane, classic Washington highway, with great spots along the way to visit. If you’re feeling peckish, or a maybe a little thirsty, check out Ramblin’ Jacks Rib-eye for a classic steak, BBQ, or tasty breakfast. (Open daily, 8am – 9pm.) Or, for a further step back in time, try out Frosty’s Saloon & Grill (c. 1901) for family-friendly diner fare. (Saturday/Sunday, open at 8am, Monday – Friday, open 11am. Open until 10pm Sun-Thurs, 2am on Fri/Sat.) Also be sure to check out the new kid in town, the Tumac Taproom for craft beer and cider on tap. (Monday – Thursday, 4-9pm, Friday/Saturday, 12– 10pm, Sunday 12 – 7pm)

Road
Scenes from a rambling drive in west Lewis County

Just down from Napavine on Old Hwy 603 sits the eclectic town of Winlock. A lumber town from its early days, it brought Finnish, German, and Swedish immigrants to the area to work in the mills. In addition to its successful lumber industry, the town gained fame as the Egg and Poultry Capital of the World. While no longer a player in the poultry industry, Winlock is now host to the WORLD’S LARGEST EGG. It’s well worth a visit, especially if you can check it out during the annual Winlock Egg Days. (June 15th, 2024) There’s a parade, farmer’s market, evening street dance, and FREE EGG SALAD SANDWICHES. (Be still my egg salad loving heart. What more do you need?? Tots. Okay, good point.)

Side note: Apparently Indiana thinks they have the world’s largest egg. Let’s fight! Maybe an egg toss? Or one of those egg-in-a-teaspoon relays… Let’s do this! (And it looks like Canada wants to enter the fray as well. Hmm.)

If eggs aren’t your thing, head to the Winlock Historical Museum and see what else the history of the area has to offer. (Open Wed/Thurs/Sat, 11am – 2) Or maybe grab your instrument and hit up the annual Winlock Pickersfest. (August 3-5, 2024.) It features concerts, jams, and workshops, along with camping, food, horseshoes, and more! But if you decide you do actually need more chicken-related fun, walk around the downtown area and visit the rooster statues. (These ones are nice and won’t chase you mercilessly around the farmyard.) Finish up your tribute to all things eggs with a visit to the unique Rowdy Rooster Bistro & Thrift. (Open Tuesday – Friday, 8am – 4pm. Closed Saturday – Monday)

As you head out of Winlock, there are a couple of nice routes to explore. If you’d like to head back to I-5, jump on SR-505 and head southeast, passing by the modern part of Winlock. If you’d like to stick to the quieter roads, check out the Winlock-Vader Road and consider a visit to the tiny town of… Vader. (OH how I wish they had a Star Wars festival. Come on.)

Established in 1906, the town of Vader (originally named Little Falls) may be small, but it’s worth a visit. I had a great time on my sunny visit and enjoyed a very tasty breakfast of biscuits and gravy at the quaint Little Crane Café. This classic, small town diner serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, along with old-school, kitschy décor. (Open daily, 7am – 8pm)

After breakfast, I decided to work off the biscuits with a walk around the area. My first stop was at the Old City Jail and adjacent J.K. Werden Memorial Park. (There’s a museum inside the jail, but said jail is unfortunately closed for repairs.) Just a block or so over from the park is the charming Grace Evangelical Church of Vader. (c. 1902) I wrapped up my tour with a visit to the conveniently timed Citywide Yard Sale, hosted by the local Lion’s Club, right alongside SR-506. (Usually first weekend in August) I also was able to visit the historic Rosehill home, owned by lovely author, Judi Costello, who was also hosting a yard sale that afternoon.

After toting my unexpected yard sale purchases back to the car, it was time to head towards I-5 on SR 506 and back to the eastern side of Lewis County. Crossing under I-5 on SR-506, which then becomes Toledo-Vader Road, I headed into the little town of Toledo. (Note: You have not arrived in Ohio.)

Should you be in immediate need of an old-school burger, from SR-506, take the Cowlitz Loop underpass and check out Mrs. Beesley’s Burgers. (Open daily, 11am – 8pm.) There’s also an informative heritage marker just across the parking lot describing the Cowlitz Landing area and the Cowlitz Trail. Count yourself as lucky. I’m pretty sure the tedious canoe ride on the adjacent Cowlitz River didn’t end up with a tasty burger and fries.

From Mrs. Beesley’s, jump on the adjacent Cowlitz Ridge Road and follow it north to Toledo-Vader Road. Or hop on I-5 North and take Exit 60 to Toledo-Vader Road. Then, simply follow Toledo-Vader Road east into… Toledo! At any rate, there should be jumping or hopping involved.

Once known as Cowlitz Landing, modern-day Toledo now exists a little further east, but still sits next to the river. There is much history in the area, including the settlement history of Washington State and in particular, millennia of Native American history of the Cowlitz Tribe. From the importance of the cross-Cascades, Native American Cowlitz Trail to some of the earliest settlement history of the Fort Cowlitz/Cowlitz Farm, the Toledo area has been integral in the development of Washington State.

There’s a lot of great exploring to do in this area and some excellent backroads to travel along. Should you want to grab some sustenance before embarking on your Toledo-area adventure, check out these local spots:

  • Stop in at Donna’s Place for burgers, pizza, and classic diner fare. Located in downtown Toledo, they’re open Tuesday – Thursday, from 11am – 8pm. (Friday/Saturday to 9pm. Closed Sunday/Monday.)
  • Don’t miss Betty’s Place, a classic spot offering old-school burgers, milkshakes, and more. Open daily, 10:30am to 8pm. (Friday/Saturday to 9pm) Might I add they have fry sauce, fried mushrooms, fried green beans, and my favorite sandwich. (Turkey, bacon, Swiss, tomato on grilled sourdough. Yes, please.) (Side note: I wonder if Donna and Betty are friends? Rivals?)
  • If you’re looking for a boutique winery located in a beautiful, pastoral location, just outside of downtown Toledo, head directly to Bateaux Cellars. Super friendly owners, regular events, great outdoor seating areas, and tasty wine make this a must-visit spot. They source their grapes from the fantastic Airfield Estates vineyard near Sunnyside, which were featured in the very lovely Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon I tried on my visit. They also carry beer from Brothers Cascadia Brewing (located in Vancouver) and ciders from local OutWest Ciders. On the day of my visit, there was a local artisan event happening and I ended up with an amazing sculpture from Rusting Day Dreams and some tasty coffee from Black Cat Coffee Co. (Winery tasting room – Friday, 2-6pm, Saturday, Noon-6pm, Sunday, Noon-5pm)
  • For more local artisan action, stop by the Toledo Thursday Market and enjoy what the area has to offer. Their upcoming season opens March 13th, 2024 and can be found at 115 Ramsey Way at the Steamboat Landing.

After enjoying a stop in Toledo, I headed north onSR-505 to Jackson Hwy and then on to the Lewis & Clark State Park. This is a nice park for camping, horseback riding, hiking, and includes equestrian campsite areas. To learn more about the area, head a little further up Jackson Hwy to the Jackson House State Park Heritage Site and enjoy a picnic while you learn more about area history. (Discover Pass required at both locations.)

Continue following Jackson Hwy past the Jackson House State Park Heritage Site to US-12, also known as the White Pass Scenic Byway. (c. 1926. In 1967, it was extended to its current endpoint in Aberdeen.) At this point, you can continue to follow Jackson Hwy all the way back to Chehalis, but I chose to head east on US-12 towards Packwood and White Pass. If you happen to be coming to Lewis County from the eastern side of the state, I highly recommend coming over via US-12. Overall, US-12 is one of my very favorite roads in the state. It’s filled with interesting stops, great food and drink, and leads to some of the most spectacular scenery in the entire United States. It is truly one of the great American highways.

Note: You can take US-12 all the way to Detroit, should you be so inclined! I’ve driven it into Helena, Montana and it was an amazing, incredibly scenic route. (And all those mountains and twisty turns – YOWSA!)

Heading east on US-12 will take you over the very large Mayfield Lake. Formed by Mayfield Dam, the Mayfield Lake Park is located just off of US-12 on Beach Road. It’s a great place for boating, swimming, fishing, and camping. (Note: Be sure to make reservations as the area gets crowded in the summer months.) If you’re looking to rent a boat or jet ski or are interested in cottages or cabins, check out the Mayfield Lake Resort & Marina.

A few miles past Mayfield Lake, you’ll hit the tiny town of Mossyrock. Stop by the family-friendly Pioneer Bar & Grill for classic diner fare, including burgers, pizza, and sandwiches. (Open daily, 11am – 10pm, 11pm on Fri/Sat, 9pm on Sunday.) If you happen to be in the area during July or the winter holiday season, stop in at Aldrich Berry Farm & Nursery for delicious blueberries and Christmas trees. A second-generation farm, they’ve been operating in the area since 1944.

Meandering east on US-12 is a great way to go. However, if you happen to be coming from the north, you might consider hitting up SR-7 off of I-5 near the Fife area. This will bring you down past Spanaway, and to the tiny town of Elbe. Not far past Elbe, you’ll enter Lewis County and the town of Mineral. This route, filled with scenic farmland, is what I travel if when I’m headed to the White Pass Ski Area. (White Pass is one of my favorite places to ski in the world. THE WORLD.)

Whether you enter Morton via US-12 or SR-7, the area is perfectly situated for taking a break and plotting your mountain adventures. Located on US-12, in between Mt. Rainier and Mt. Saint Helens, the Morton area has much to offer as a mountain gateway location. If you happen to be in the area in mid-August, be sure to hit up the Morton Loggers Jubilee (August 8-11, 2024) and learn about the logging history of the area. In its 81st year, it features all things logging, plus lawnmower races and a parade!

While planning your mountain adventure, be sure to stop in at one of Morton’s great restaurants and fuel up for your journey. Check out one of these spots on your next visit:

  • For a great family-friendly diner experience, featuring breakfast, lunch, and dinner, stop in at Papa Bears Restaurant & Lounge. Open daily from 8am – 8pm.
  • It’s been a tradition to stop at Plaza Jalisco when returning home from White Pass Ski Area. Family-friendly, big portions and always tasty. Open daily from 11am – 9pm. (Friday/Saturday to 10pm)
  • Located downtown, in the historic Morton Hotel building, the Rivers Coffeehouse & Bistro is open early for breakfast and features healthy and tasty options. Open 7am – 4pm, Sunday thru Thursday and 7am – 7pm on Friday/Saturday. If you’re interested in staying in the area, be sure to inquire about their inn rooms located upstairs from the bistro.
  • I love to pack a bit of tasty jerky for my mountain adventures. Bear Ridge Smokehouse definitely fills the bill with great jerky, custom meats, custom butchering, and smoked meats. (Daily, 9am – 5:30pm, Saturday to 5pm, closed Sundays.)

Maybe you don’t want to gear up for an epic hike. Maybe you want to relax in a cool theatre or peruse some vintage goods. Never fear, downtown Morton has you covered! Hit up these locations during your Morton visit and enjoy the scene:

  • Recently renovated, the charming Morton Roxy Theater (c. 1937) features first-run movies, community theatre, an events space, live music, and a gallery featuring local artists. They’ve got it all!
  • Directly across the street from the Roxy Theatre, the cute and eclectic Rabbit Hole features a great variety of clothing, antiques, home goods, and more. (Open Tuesday – Friday, 10am – 5pm and Saturday, 11am – 4pm.)
  • For a great selection of local artisan goods, head to the seasonal Morton Farmers Market in the downtown area. Typically open from May thru September on Saturdays from 10am – 2pm, they also feature bazaars during the holiday season.

As I continued east on US-12, I saw a sign for Riffe Lake and decided to give it a look. Given what I learned of the area’s history, I’m so glad I did. Once home to the towns of Kosmos, Riffe and Neskia before being flooded over by the Mossyrock Dam in 1968, the area is now home to Riffe Lake. The towns were “relocated,” (i.e. townspeople were forced to leave) but the actual building foundations and more still remain at the bottom of the lake. Today’s lake supports all manner of outdoor activities including boating, fishing, swimming, and hiking in the areas surrounding the lake. Occasionally, the water level of the lake decreases and during these times, portions of the submerged towns can still be seen.

After investigating Riffe Lake and its eerie history, I continued east on US-12 towards the town of Packwood, and the gateway to Mt. Rainier National Park. That said, there was no way I could miss a stop at the iconic Huff & Puff Drive-in located in the Randle area. Located directly off of US-12 and open daily from 11am – 7pm, this classic drive-in features delicious burgers, fries, shakes, and more. Huff & Puff is also an appropriately named run at nearby White Pass Ski Area. I always think of those burgers as a reward as I huff and puff my way through that run…

Also located in the greater Randle area are some beautiful hiking areas. The Goat Creek Trail / Cathedral Falls hike can be found off of Kosmos Road and features some lovely waterfall scenes. (NW Forest Pass required) If you need still more waterfall shots, check out the Covel Creek Trail & Angel Falls Loop, just south of Randle off of SR-131. (Cispus Road) This trail is very hikeable for families and accessible in the winter months. And one of these days, if the road is open and not filled with snow or landslides, I want to take SR-131 to Forest Road 25 and head further towards the Mt. Saint Helens area. One of these days!

I was getting close to wrapping up my Lewis County adventure, but not before visiting the town of Packwood. Nestled in the shadow of towering Mt. Rainier and surrounded by stunning wilderness areas, Packwood plays a strategic part in current and past Washington State development. An excellent place to learn more about the history and importance of this area is at the White Pass Country Historical Museum, located right off of US-12. It features well-curated displays and a welcoming, knowledgeable staff. (Summer hours – Thursday – Saturday, 11am – 4pm. Winter hours are Saturdays, Noon – 4pm.) For current activities and more info about Packwood and surrounding areas, don’t miss a stop at the Packwood Visitor Center. (Open Thursday – Monday, 9am – 4pm. Closed Tuesday/Wednesday.)

Packwood is a great place to visit year-round. That said, I’m typically in the area during the winter, on my way to White Pass Ski Area. However, my most recent visit was during the summer and I’m so glad I took some time out to explore the area and enjoy Packwood’s warm weather offerings. I love a good farmer’s market and the Packwood Saturday Market was a great stop. I picked up some amazing lavender goods from Randle’s Cowlitz Falls Lavender Company and loved taking in the lavender smell amidst the stately pine trees. (Seasonally, Saturdays, 9am – 1pm) Additionally, the ginormous Packwood Flea Market is not to be missed. (Memorial Day and Labor Day weekends, 9am to dusk. On US-12 and Snyder Road – over a mile long!)

Should you want to take a longer stay in Packwood, check out the Historic Hotel Packwood. (c. 1912) It’s a newly renovated boutique hotel with eight rooms and one cabin, and celebrates the history of the area. (Note: Rooms/Cabin are for guests 18+) If you’re looking for something more rustic, head to the cabins and bunkhouse at Packwood Station. The area used to house the Packwood Ranger Station for Gifford National Forest and has been renovated to accommodate lodging. (Buildings c. 1929 – 1964)

While relatively small, Packwood features several great dining options and in keeping with its strategic location, is a great place to stop when heading home from mountain adventures. I’ve personally visited Packwood many times during and after ski adventures. Here are a few of my favorite spots:

  • Stop by the ski-themed Cliff Droppers for tasty burgers and hand-crafted pizzas. Be sure to pair your meal with a Rainier tallboy! Open Wednesday – Sunday, 11am – 6:45. (5:45 on Sunday) Closed Monday/Tuesday.
  • I love this crazy place. The Blue Spruce Saloon & Diner is a family-friendly, diner and dive bar with great food and an always interesting scene. Many a successful ski-day have been celebrated here. Open daily from 11am – 11pm. (9am on Saturday/Sunday)
  • If you’re looking for good pizza, burger, or maybe a classic breakfast dish, stop by Cruiser’s Pizza and enjoy! Open daily, 9am – 8pm (8am Saturday/Sunday)
  • A good cup of coffee is an important thing, any time of day. I’ve found The Mountain Goat Coffee Company nicely fills all of my caffeine-focused needs. The atmosphere is quaint and regularly filled with locals. Try the baked goods! Open daily, 7am – 5pm.
  • If you’re looking for a spot to stretch your legs on a sunny afternoon, stop by the Packwood Brewing Co. I absolutely love this place, along with their delicious Cowlitz Kolsch. They also have a small menu which includes hot dogs, brats, nachos, tacos, pretzels, and quesadillas. All great accompaniments for their great brews! Open weekdays from 3-9pm, Friday from 1-10pm, weekends from 9am – 10pm, Sunday to 9pm. (Weekend breakfast from 9-11:30am)

Keep going east on US-12 and you’ll come to the aforementioned, beyond compare White Pass Ski Area. You can’t miss it as it’s located directly beside US-12 and features a ton of old-school ski-hill charm and amazing snow. (Check out my Yakima County article for a more detailed description of the area.) For this journey, however, I chose to head home via US-12 and SR-123. This summertime route takes you into spectacular Mt. Rainier National Park and over to SR-410. It’s an amazing drive and gives you a great look at the park without having to pay the entrance fee. It can get pretty crowded, however, and you might get some extra time to check out the scenery if caught behind a motorhome – or someone unfamiliar with curvy mountain roads… On the topic of Mt. Rainier, I plan on devoting an entire article to the area as there are so many amazing areas to celebrate. Stay tuned!

  • Pro Tip 1: SR-123 is closed during the winter and SR-410 is closed at the Crystal Mountain access road during the winter. Also be sure to check roads year-around for washouts and other closures. With the help of much snowplowing, US-12 remains open throughout the year. (Most of the time. Know before you go.)
  • Pro Tip 2: Beginning summer of 2024, visitors entering Mt. Rainier National Park from the Nisqually, Stevens Canyon, and Sunrise/White River entrance stations during peak hours (7am – 3pm) will need reservations.

Before meeting up with SR-123, look for the turn-off on US-12 to La Wis Wis Guard Station No. 1165. Included on the National Register of Historic Places, it was built by the CCCs in 1928. Not only was it an important part of developing routes through the state, it now houses a great campground, hiking areas, fishing, and biking. It’s also in an excellent location from which to explore Mt. Rainier National Park as well as the expansive Gifford Pinchot National Forest. (Note: La Wis Wis Campground was closed in 2023 for renovations and repairs. It is planned to reopen in 2024.)

Should you feel like checking out more of the natural splendor of the area, there are nearly countless options. Here are a few more areas to explore in this spectacularly beautiful part of the state:

  • Travel in the historic footsteps of Native Americans on the Cowlitz Trail. This trail was used for millennia by the Yakama and Cowlitz tribes crossing back and forth over the mountains via Cowlitz Pass. Head east on US-12 out of Packwood for nine miles and turn left onto Forest Road 4510 and follow it to the Soda Springs trailhead. You can also access the lovely Frying Pan Loop trail off of the Cowlitz Trail.
  • Stop by the Ohanapecosh area off of SR-123 for amazing camping and hiking in old-growth forests. Don’t miss a stop at the very informative visitor center. Chat with a ranger and learn more about the flora and fauna of the area and the incredible bio-diversity of Mt. Rainier National Park. (Note: Ohanapecosh is not accessible in the winter months.)
  • For summer hiking, the Eastside Trail is an epic, 13.3-mile, one-way trail to stunning Chinook Pass out of the Ohanapecosh Campground. Parking/access is also available at the Grove of the Patriarchs parking lot, but the actual Grove of the Patriarchs is temporarily closed due to a footbridge washout. (I hope it reopens soon as it’s a lovely, very accessible walk among the giants.) If you’re up for a longer adventure with some tent camping along the way, make it a roundtrip, 26.6-mile adventure. (Don’t forget to get your backcountry permit at the ranger station.) Or consider having a buddy pick you up at the Chinook Pass parking lot and then drive you back to Ohanapecosh. OR – park at Chinook Pass and do the hike in reverse! (A NW Forest Pass is required to park at Chinook Pass.) Any way you hike it, this is a pretty cool way to cross this part of the state.

Well alrighty. That was quite a journey! While it’s completely possible to take a very enjoyable day trip through Lewis County, I thoroughly recommend taking at least a few days to explore. I was able to pack in quite a bit during my initial day trip, but I will admit to coming back for a longer, weekend trip as well. I might’ve also mixed in some travels from past visits to the area. I will neither confirm nor deny. The bottom line is Lewis County occupies a beautiful part of the state and an important spot in my heart. I will never tire of visiting the area and enjoying all it has to offer. I hope you’re able to do the same!

Until next time – Safe travels!

SPOTIFY PLAYLIST – Some tunes to accompany you on your Lewis County adventure

  • The Secret Sun – Jesse Harris (from The Secret Sun)
  • These Wheels – Gabe Dixon (from Turns to Gold)
  • Closer to Fine – Brandi Carlile, Catherine Carlile (from Barbie The Album)
  • So Familiar – Steve Martin, Edie Brickell (from So Familiar)
  • All the Lilacs in Ohio – John Hiatt, Jerry Douglas (from Leftover Feelings)
  • Gettin’ Happy – Dolly Parton (from Love Is Like A Butterfly)
  • Buckets of Rain – Redbird (from Redbird)
  • The Old North Woods – Béla Fleck (from My Bluegrass Heart)
  • The Imperial March (Darth Vader’s Theme) – John Williams, London Symphony Orchestra (from Star Wars The Empire Strikes Back)
  • The Tale of Mr. Morton – Skee-Lo (from School House Rock! Rocks)
  • Wildflowers – Tom Petty (from Wildflowers)
  • I Was Made For Sunny Days – The Weepies, Deb Talan, Steven Tannen (from Be My Thrill)
  • Driving Without Purpose – Ylvis (from Stories From Norway: Northug)
  • Huff and Puff – Janeen Brady (from Standin’ Tall, Vol. 6: Happiness)
  • Training Montage – The Mountain Goats (from Bleed Out)
  • Carry on Wayward Son – Kansas (from Leftoverture)
  • Come Sail Away – Styx (from The Grand Illusion)
  • Any Way You Want It – Journey (from Departure)
  • You Really Got Me – Van Halen (from Van Halen)
  • Stone Cold – Rainbow (from Straight Between The Eyes)
  • Humble & Kind – Tim McGraw (from Damn Country Music)
  • Linger – Jenny Slate (from Marcel the Shell With Shoes On (Unplugged))
Olympic Club Hotel
Cheers! And happy trails!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Please join me on more I Ate the State adventures!

I Ate the State – Okanogan County

Greetings!

Welcome to the largest county in Washington State, Okanogan County. Seriously, this county is ENORMOUS! In fact, I’d go as far to say it is ginormous – and filled with an equally large bevy of adventure-filled opportunities. I am absolutely blown away by the size and scale of the county every time I’m lucky enough to visit. Towering mountains, beautiful forests, winding rivers and some of the darkest, star-filled skies in North America are just a few of Okanogan County’s stunning attributes. It would take many trips to cover all it has to offer, but please join me as I pay tribute to the amazing areas I’ve visited thus far.

North Cascades
The North Cascades are calling!

There are many ways to hit up Okanogan County, including via our lovely neighbor, Canada. It is also possible to visit Okanogan County via the 440-mile Cascade Loop as it circles through King, Snohomish, Chelan, Skagit and Okanogan counties. This amazing route was recently and appropriately designated a National Scenic Byway in January of 2021. It is a fantastic way to visit the state and a beautiful representation of everything Washington has to offer.

Included as part of the Cascade Loop is the North Cascades Scenic Byway, also known as SR-20. Opened in 1972 to accommodate area hydroelectric projects as well as access to the newly created North Cascades National Park (1968), it is the longest highway in Washington. It is possible to traverse the entire state, beginning from coastal US-101 and ending at the border with Idaho. If you want to experience an amazing cross-section of the state’s bounty, SR-20 is the way to go!

Travel Alert: Okanogan County typically deals with very serious wildfires throughout the summer months. Portions of SR-20 and other thoroughfares are periodically closed and many trails, campsites, homes, lodges, etc. can close or experience various levels of evacuation. Please check the WSDOT before traveling and follow all fire stages and restrictions whenever in forested and dry areas. Be smart. Be safe!

Since Okanogan County is so large, it took me a few visits to experience even the moderate amount of adventures I’m about to share. I took different routes in and out of the county, but for this take, we’ll start out heading east on SR-20, off of I-5 in the Burlington area. (A great alternative off of I-5 is SR-530 to Darrington and then over to SR-20 near Rockport.) When the North Cascades pass is closed during the winter, another great route out of the Seattle area is via I-90 to Cle Elum and then SR-970­ to US-97 and Blewett Pass. US-97 will then meet up with US-2 at Peshastin and then back to US-97 at Orondo. Once in Okanogan County, take SR-153 from Pateros to head towards Twisp and Winthrop or stay on US-97 north towards Okanogan and the Canadian border. If you’re heading over from the eastern side of the state, US-395 out of the Spokane to SR-20 at Kettle Falls is great, as is US-395 out of the Tri-Cities area to SR-17 in Mesa and on to US-97.

The route via SR-20 through Skagit and Whatcom counties is spectacular. There are so many things to see and do along the way and so many glorious distractions. Eyes on the road, lovely travelers – we’re headed towards Okanogan County! That said, if you’re headed along SR-20, it would be road trip silliness to not check out a few of the more amazing spots along the way. I double-dog dare you to pass up these surreally beautiful sights on your next trip through the area. (Don’t actually take my dare – check out the sights!)

  • Directly off of SR-20 is the amazing Gorge Creek and Gorge Lake interpretive trail. The waterfall itself is breathtaking and can be viewed via a careful walk across the highway from the parking area. Even if you’re not a fan of heights, the area is well worth investigating.  
  • The deep turquoise, glacial waters of Diablo Lake blow me away every time I see them. There is much to do in the area, but taking a ride with the Diablo Lake Dam Tour, operated out of the very cool North Cascades Institute, is a great way to experience the area in a few hours. (Also a pick-up point for the Diablo Lake Ferry which heads to the incredibly unique, floating Ross Lake Resort.) Hit up my Whatcom County article for a more detailed view of the area.
  • If you don’t have time to stop at Diablo Lake proper, a quick stop at Diablo Lookout is a must! The views are soaring and everywhere you look presents the most perfect picture you’ve ever seen. (Pro Tip: It’s also a rest area and there aren’t many along this route. Just sayin’.)

Alrighty. After all that preamble and amazing roadway, we have at last arrived in Okanogan County! I will also commend you (and me!) for your fortitude while traversing over the formidable Washington Pass. (This part of SR-20 is very appropriately closed during the winter.) The North Cascades have been nicknamed “The Alps of North America,” and the comparison is well-deserved. This area is a haven for mountaineers, hikers and skiers alike, but even if you’re just heading over the pass, a stop at the Washington Pass Observation Site is a worthy adventure. At around 5500 feet, the views of Liberty Bell Mountain, Early Winters Spires and the highway as it snakes through the valley are awe-inspiring. The Alps are certainly something to behold, but the North Cascades are in a class of grandeur all their own.

After maneuvering through the impressive twists and turns of Washington Pass, the highway descends towards the idyllic, mountain town of Mazama and the enchanting Methow Valley. Washington has its fair share of stunning locales, but I can honestly say I’d move to the Mazama area tomorrow if it were possible. The most amazing scenery imaginable, all the outdoor adventure opportunities you could ever desire and the peaceful bliss of dark, star-studded skies can all be found in Mazama. While the area is rugged and doesn’t cater to modern convenience, it is not without its charms. A few places not to miss in the Mazama area:

  • If I lived in Mazama, I’d be at the incredibly cool, local institution, The Mazama Store every day. I’d have a regular table inside or a spot in their super-cool, outdoor courtyard. I’d eat one (or several) of their ridiculously tasty baked goods with several cups of their excellent coffee – in my personal mug. (OMG – their cream-cheese filled Everything Bagel!) I’d get my groceries, gas and takeaway food there. I’m pretty sure they’d be sick of me, but I wouldn’t leave. I can’t quit you, Mazama Store! And I would most certainly hang out at their yearly, Christmas at the End of the Road celebration. Cheers, Mazama! (Store open daily, 7am – 6pm. Gas 24hrs.)
  • Located conveniently behind the Mazama Store, The Goat’s Beard Mountain Supply has everything you need for exploring the local splendor. Gear sales and rentals available year-round, they have bikes, skis, snowshoes and more. A perfect spot to hit up before setting out on the amazing Methow Trails trailhead, located very close by. (Store open daily, 9am – 6pm)
  • Enjoy the ranch life at Freestone Inn at Wilson Ranch. (c. 1940s ranch) A lovely lodge and cabin layout feature 36 units with lake or forest view. For dining, check out their Sandy Butte Bistro, Moonshine Bar and Jack’s Hut. (Note: Dining options currently closed Monday/Tuesday. Check online for updates.) They are also located along the beautiful Sandy Butte Trail and are close to the Early Winters Campground and Early Winters Trail.
  • Close to cross-country ski trails and year-round activities, check out the Mazama Country Inn for their cozy inn and cabins. They also feature onsite yoga and tennis as well as a seasonal restaurant.

One of the biggest draws to the area is the undeniably spectacular North Cascades National Park. Featuring 300 glaciers, soaring mountain peaks, rugged terrain and lush forest, it is one of America’s most glorious gems. Just next door is the winner for *Best Supporting Forest in a Gorgeous Nature Scene, the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest. You truly can’t go wrong wherever you end up in this expansive, amazing setting. (*Not a real award, but should be)

If you’re up for an adrenaline rush and a view of all this majesty from the highest drivable point in Washington, take a trip to Slate Peak Lookout, located above Hart’s Pass. The road ends at 7488 feet at the Slate Peak parking area and is a narrow, steep gauntlet of unpaved twists and turns, complete with no guardrails. (Important note: Trailers are not allowed and RVs are highly discouraged.) Once you’re at the parking lot, it’s a half-mile hike to the lookout. If you happen to be in the area at night, I’ve heard the dark skies are filled with an absolute blanket of stars. Dreamy! (Side note: I totally got sucked into watching videos of people driving up the road. Yikes!)

Pro Tip: While there are no fees required to drive through the North Cascades National Park, they are often involved for parking within the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest. Various National Park trails actually begin within the National Forest and could require a NW Forest Pass.

If you’d like to do some hiking, backpacking and camping or perhaps a climb in the park, there are SO many wonderful options for your adventure. For something epic, the 2650-mile Pacific Crest Trail runs through the south part of park and the 1200-mile Pacific Northwest Trail (WA, MT, ID) traverses through the upper-north of the state, through the park and down towards the coast. (Note: All overnight camping within the park requires a park Backcountry Permit.) Good spots to join up with the Pacific Crest Trail are off of SR-20 near the Rainy Pass Trailhead, the Cutthroat Lake trailhead or via the aforementioned Hart’s Pass.

For something not quite as involved, but equally epic and beautiful, consider these great backpacking and camping spots for your next trip to the North Cascades and Mazama area:

  • For the perfect combo of stunning views and a loop trail, check out the Heather-Maple Pass Loop off of SR-20, across from the Rainy Pass Trailhead.
  • Located in the area of the Washington Pass Lookout, Blue Lake is a very reasonable 2-mile hike from SR-20. The elevation gain is relatively low (1050 ft) and makes for a lovely family daytrip. You might even see a mountain goat!
  • Sporting some pretty amazing scenery and backcountry camping, Easy Pass and the Fisher Creek Trails offer a splendid cross-section of North Cascades glory. Park at the trailhead at milepost 151 on SR-20 to start your adventure.
  • For an amazing view, head to the historic Goat Peak Lookout and revel in the wonder of the North Cascades and Methow Valley.
  • Following along with the goat theme, Goat Wall Overlook offers yet another spectacular view of the North Cascades and Methow Valley and is easily reached from Mazama proper.
  • For great forest, flowers and more, the Robinson Creek Trail and the West Fork Methow Trail are very enjoyable hikes. (Hot tip: The Pacific Crest Trail can also be accessed from the West Fork Methow Trail.) If you’re up for camping in the area, the River Bend Campsite and Ballard Campground are good options. (Note: A NW Forest Pass is required for the Robinson Creek Trail and Ballard Campground areas.)

I am a creature of the snow. Winter is coming! (Doesn’t matter what time of year you might be reading this article…) The North Cascades are known for their stellar climbing challenges, both rock and alpine, and I dream of conquering even a small portion. Those snowy heights are within reach. I know it! (Gear up and grab the 10 Essentials first, but the mountains are calling!) In addition to climbing, the North Cascades and Methow Valley offer some of the country’s (nay, world’s) best cross-country skiing opportunities. Should you feel inspired to don your Gore-Tex and hit the winter wonderland, here are just a few of the snowy possibilities:

  • There are SO many amazing places to climb in the North Cascades. WOW. If you’ve got nerves of steel and a love of heights, the iconic Liberty Bell awaits. Forbidden Peak is considered one of the top, classic climbs in North America and is a surefire adrenaline rush. Add to that list, Sharkfin Tower, the Goat Wall and Eldorado Peak and you’re looking at some serious mountaineering magnificence.
  • If you’d like an assist with your ascent, hit up the experts at North Cascades Mountain Guides for both alpine and rock adventures – year-round! (Open Monday – Friday, 9am – 3pm and Saturday/Sunday, 8am – 5pm)
  • The North Cascades and Methow Valley support an incredible Nordic scene which includes cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and fat-biking. In operation since the 1970s, the non-profit Methow Trails system is now North America’s largest cross-country ski area. Working with local landowners to allow access to private land, the groomed trails feature over 120-miles of snowy opportunity. One can even ski town to town and lodge to lodge – just like in Europe! Methow Trails also support some pretty amazing summer action as well.
  • In addition to climbing expeditions, North Cascade Mountain Guides also offer ski tours in North Cascades National Park. You could even try your hand (and legs!) at heli-skiing or backcountry touring with local outfit, North Cascades Heli.
  • Perhaps you’d like to sit down while enjoying your snowy adventuring. If snowmobiling is your jam, there are many amazing areas to hit up in the Methow Valley. Yellowjacket Sno-Park provides access to excellent snowmobile trails in the Hart’s Pass and Blackpine Basin areas. Eightmile Sno-Park, located out of Winthrop on West Chewuch Road is another great area to check out. Visit the Methow Valley Snowmobiling Association for local tips and be sure to have your Sno-Park and snowmobiling permits sorted out. (Required November thru March)
Liberty Bell
Liberty Bell, stunning with snow or without!

Heading east through the Methow Valley towards Winthrop is a beautiful adventure in and of itself. Any time of the year you happen to be in this area is guaranteed to be an extraordinary experience. Featuring snow-covered pastures and scenery in the winter, idyllic harvest colors in the fall and abundant flora and fauna in the warmer months, the area is a picture-perfect wonderland.

Longtime stewards of the valley, the Methow People, now part of the Confederated Tribes of the Colville Reservation have cherished the area for millennia. Flowing through this beautiful valley, the Methow River was a vital part of the Methow Peoples’ lives and to this day is an extremely integral part of valley life. A fine way to experience this timeless splendor is with a horseback riding adventure or a hike along the Methow Community Trail. Take a stop on the lovely Tawlks-Foster Suspension Bridge and take in the river scene. (Groomed for skiers in the winter!) The Methow Valley is always striking and not to be missed on your Okanogan County adventure.

Continuing through the Methow Valley on SR-20 will bring you directly into the very unique town of Winthrop. As you enter town, you might question if you’ve just stumbled into an Old West movie set. Nope – it’s just a typical day in Winthrop! Feel free to bust out your chaps and ride in on a horse, but more modern methods of transportation are equally welcome. In fact, on a busy weekend day, you’ll be lucky to snag one of the parking spots in the center of town. (SR-20 is the main route through town.)

While there are many aspects of early settler life that remain in Winthrop, the “western” feel of the town was inspired by the opening of SR-20 in 1972. Local merchants contributed $1000 each and a new era of industry began. Along with general updates, false facades were rebuilt, sidewalks were replaced with boardwalks and a “Westernization Code” was put in play. (In effect to this day.) Similar to what the nearby town of Leavenworth also accomplished, the town modernized its tourist appeal by taking a step back in time. Everything old is new again! (I say that to myself every birthday.)

Just as is the scene in nearby Mazama, outdoor activities and beautiful views are plentiful in Winthrop any time of the year. Whether you’re into cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, fat biking, ice-skating, hockey, hiking, camping or fishing, Winthrop has you covered. And that’s just the short list! Even if you simply want to sit out at night and marvel at the wonderfully dark skies or look out from your hotel deck onto the Methow and Chewuch rivers as they converge, Winthrop can accommodate you. It is truly an excellent town to spend a spell. And maybe water your horse…

If you’re anything like me, you’re likely pretty hungry (and thirsty!) after all of that adventuring. Even if you were only sitting by the river, that takes some concentration! Which surely burns some amount of calories, right?? At any rate, it’s a very wise plan to spend some time enjoying the food and beverage scene in Winthrop. It may be a small area, but Winthrop certainly packs in some delicious options! Here are some of my favorite spots in Winthrop:

  • Featuring delicious craft cocktails and locally sourced ingredients, Copper Glance is an excellent place to enjoy a meal. The atmosphere is modern, but is set in a historic Winthrop locale. (Open Thursday – Saturday, 4-pm)
  • I absolutely love the Old Schoolhouse Brewery. If it’s a nice day, head directly to the beautiful riverside seating, overlooking the Chewuch River. I particularly enjoy their Methow Blonde with one of their amazing burgers or an order of Totchos. They also regularly feature live music in the summer. (Open Monday – Thursday, 3-8pm, Friday/Saturday, Noon – 9pm, Sunday, Noon – 8pm)
  • If you’re in need of a sugar fix, don’t miss a stop at the popular Sheri’s Sweet Shoppe. It can be a bit touristy on a busy weekend, but the delicious treats are worth the wait. (Open daily, 7am – 6pm. Open seasonally.)
  • I have a very special place in my heart for the fabulous Rocking Horse Bakery. Perhaps I’ll tell you the story one of these days… Don’t miss the amazing carrot cake and cup of their always excellent coffee. They feature Lariat Coffee Roasters which are conveniently located next door! I truly love this place. (Open Thursday – Monday, 7am – 2pm. Closed Tuesday/Wednesday.)
  • My brother and I enjoyed some seriously delicious pizza at East 20 Pizza. Featuring excellent pizza along with great beer and a fun atmosphere, it’s an all-around enjoyable place to stop. (Open daily, 3-8pm.)
  • Should you be feeling a little fancy during your Winthrop visit, head to the Arrowleaf Bistro for a delicious evening. Their menu features locally-sourced ingredients and a modern flair. Check out the roasted quail with local Bluebird Grain Farms farro! (Open for dinner, Thursday – Sunday, 5-9pm)
  • Featuring apples they grow themselves, the Methow Valley Cider House is a great place for cider and food. They also have the Apple Amphitheatre for live events and music. (Winter 2022 – Open daily, 12-8pm, closed Wednesdays.)
  • Stop in at the tasting room of boutique, family-owned Lost River Winery and enjoy a glass or two. A nice glass of Cab on a fall afternoon… yes, please! (Friday – Sunday, 11am – 5pm)
  • Offering tastings and small plates, the Brix Wine Bar & Bottle Shop is a lovely spot to both relax with a glass and replenish your wine rack. (Open Wednesday, 4-9pm, Thursday – Sunday, 1-5pm, 6pm on Friday/Saturday – Closed Monday/Tuesday)
  • If you’d like to take home a bit of the area bounty, stop by the Winthrop Farmers Market and stock up! (Sundays, 10am – 2pm in Winthrop Park. Spring thru Fall)

The very strollable boardwalks in Winthrop not only host excellent dining options, but feature several wonderful shops. Grab a good book, gear up for your outdoor adventures or stock up on crafting items – Winthrop has what you need. A few of the excellent shopping possibilities for your next visit:

  • In addition to a great supply of crafting, quilting and gift items, the 3 Bears Café & Quilts also offers casual breakfasts and great coffee in their inviting shop. Located at the east end town, it is well worth a stop. (Winter hours: Thursday – Monday, 10:30am – 5:30pm. Closed Tuesday/Wednesday)
  • If you’d like to cozy up in your cabin, stop by the charming Trail’s End Bookstore and grab something for your weekend library. (Open Wednesday – Sunday, 10am – 6pm and Monday/Tuesday, 10am – 3pm)
  • Forget your ski poles? Need some cool new hiking boots? Stop in at Winthrop Mountain Sports and let them outfit you. They can fill your Nordic ski needs and rentals as well as hook you up with a sweet kayak. (Open daily, 9:30am – 6pm, 9am – 6pm on Saturday, 5pm on Sunday)
  • Backpacks, tents, Nordic ski gear and more! The very cool Cascades Outdoor Store has everything needed to trick out your outdoor adventures. (Sunday – Thursday, 9am – 6pm, Friday/Saturday, 9am – 5pm)
  • Should you plan on braving the local rivers, hit up Methow River Raft & Kayak and make sure you’re ready to go. In addition to gear and rentals, they also offer guided trips for rafting and kayaking. (Open daily, 10am – 5pm)
  • Want to learn more about the fat bike craze or rest a pair of skis or snowshoes? Stop by Methow Cycle & Sport and let them hook you up with all your year-round sporting needs. (Open daily, 9am – 5:30pm, 5pm on Sunday.)

Whether you want to enjoy some quality indoor time or spend your time trekking on a hiking or x-country trail, there are SO many possibilities in the Winthrop area:

  • Even if you are only passing through Winthrop, make time to visit the fascinating Shafer Museum, situated on a small hill above downtown. This step back in time features well-curated indoor exhibits as well as an extensive outdoor collection of mining implements and more. Open daily, 10am – 5pm in summer. (May 9th – September 19th) Note: The museum is also open in winter, but the buildings are closed and snow doesn’t get cleared. Also open by appointment year-round.
  • Looking to see that cool new indie film or catch a live performance from a NW band? The Barnyard Cinema is the place to be! Along with movies and live music, they also have a concession stand and a lounge with beer, wine and coffee.
  • In addition to the stellar Nordic scene, there are other chilly options to explore while in town. Head to the Winthrop Ice and Sports Rink for ice skating and hockey during your winter visit. This all-season rink also has roller/inline skating, roller hockey and pickleball in the summer. Check out their online schedule for more info.
  • In addition to the excellent, year-round outdoor opportunities of the Methow Trails, there are many other areas to check out. The Pipestone Canyon Rim Trail between Winthrop and Twisp and the Sa Teekh Wa Trail (Riverwalk Trail) via the beautiful Sa Teekh Wa Suspension Bridge are excellent options. Just out of Winthrop on East Chewuch Road is Falls Creek Falls with its lovely, 2.6-mile roundtrip trail to a series of falls. If you want to extend your trip to the area, hit up the Falls Creek Campground for some further outdoor adventure.
  • Perhaps you rolled into town with your ski boat or jet skis. If you’re looking for a place to put in, head to Pearrygin Lake State Park located just outside of Winthrop. It’s a great state park with camping, boating, fishing and winter Nordic opportunities. (Discover Pass required)

There are so many beautiful lodging options in Winthrop and surrounding areas. In addition to the large list of local hotels, lodges, cabins and campgrounds, there are also many opportunities available via sites like Airbnb and Vrbo. It does, however, get pretty busy in the summer months in particular. Book early for your adventures! A few of the excellent places where you can rest up from your adventuring:

  • Overlooking Winthrop and the valley, the Sun Mountain Lodge has much to offer from its spectacular, mountaintop perch. Even if you’re not staying at the lodge, the amazing views and beautiful drive are worth your time. If you are lucky enough to be staying there, be sure to check out the spa, excellent wine cellar, gift shop, pool and comfortable lodging. I wasn’t actually staying there on my last visit, but that didn’t stop me from enjoying a delicious breakfast in their restaurant – AND a gorgeous view! Part of the Methow Trails system, there are winter trails for cross-country skiing, fat-biking, snowshoeing and summer trails for hiking, biking and horseback riding. There is truly something for everyone at Sun Mountain Lodge.
  • I’ve stayed at the Hotel Rio Vista and very much enjoyed my time there. It’s more of a traditional motel setup, but what sets it apart are the river views from each room’s private deck. A glass of wine, the river and those star-filled skies? Dreamy!
  • The River’s Edge Resort is located appropriately on the Chewuch River in downtown Winthrop.  Featuring a series of charming cabins, some with their own hot tubs, the resort is an excellent place to spend your holiday.
  • Situated on the Methow River, River Run Inn & Cabins feature lovely rooms, cabins and a 6-bedroom house. They also have an indoor pool and hot tub, large grounds and a fire circle by the river. Methow River Raft & Kayak also offer trips leaving directly from the inn. Adventure at your doorstep!
  • Not only does the Spring Creek Ranch have lodging and host beautiful weddings and events, they are also well known for their alfalfa. Throw a wedding, rent a cabin and grab a bale (or ton!) of alfalfa from their 6-acre farm. All the things!
  • In addition to cozy rooms and complimentary breakfasts in their lodge, the Chewuch Inn also has seven cabins and lovely grounds which include a small, organic orchard.
  • Hit up The Virginian Resort & Hotel for their cozy, western-themed cabins and rooms with tranquil river views. I’m giving them extra points for having a groovy “1969” themed cabin.

As the area can get incredibly dry during the long, hot summers, the danger of wildfires runs extremely high. This danger has been increasing over the years, making the need for a rapid-deployment fire-fighting presence incredibly important and necessary. Enter the North Cascades Smokejumper Base. Located between Winthrop and nearby Twisp at the Methow Valley State Airport, the base supports the local firefighting effort, including the specialized smokejumper crew.

In 1939, Methow Valley became the birthplace of smoke-jumping. Today, there are nine primary locations in the western part of the US and Alaska. These bases support around 400 smokejumpers and owe their existence to the first crew out of the Methow Valley. If they’re not otherwise engaged in fighting fires, the base is open June 1st thru October 1st for free tours. (Daily, 10am – 5pm) The tour includes a museum and smokejumper planes. Go check out what these brave women and men do!

After visiting with the smokejumpers, hop back on SR-20 and head towards the wonderful town of Twisp. This little paradise of a town is well-known as an artist’s haven and even a quick visit easily showcases this claim. Packed into its relatively small borders lie tasty food options, top-notch galleries and beautiful outdoor possibilities. You won’t want to miss taking in the charms of Twisp.

On your next visit through the area, fuel up for your Twisp adventures at these delicious spots:

  • Don’t miss a stop at the iconic Cinnamon Twisp Bakery. Not only do they feature super tasty pastries, they also feature excellent breakfast bagel sandwiches and lunch offerings. Open Wednesday – Sunday, 7am – 3pm, Closed Monday/Tuesday.
  • For wood-fired, tasty Italian goodness, reserve a spot at Tappi. Enjoy pizza, pasta, delicious wines and more! (Open Friday – Tuesday, 5-7:30pm. Closed Wednesday/Thursday)
  • Who doesn’t love a bahn mi sandwich, a tasty burger or maybe a Korean fried chicken sandwich? YUM!! Check out the Fork food truck, located seasonably on the TwispWorks campus. (May thru mid-October, Wednesday – Saturday. Check online for hours.)
  • If you’re looking for a great cup of coffee, stop in at Blue Star Coffee Roasters and get your caffeine fix. Visit the coffee roasting plant where you can get fresh pastries and coffee onsite or order online. (They have a coffee subscription deal!) Open Monday – Saturday, 7:30am – 1:30pm.
  • The very cool Glover Street Market, located in the heart of downtown Twisp features a great grocery selection along with a food counter and groovy wine cellar. (Open Monday – Saturday, 9am – 6pm. Kitchen open 9am – 4pm. Closed Sunday.) Note: They’re for sale! If I had money to buy a local grocery spot… Crowd fund me??
  • If you happen to be in town on a Saturday between April and October, stop by the Twisp Farmers Market and stock up on local goods. (AKA: Methow Valley Farmer’s Market) Saturdays, 9am – noon (April – October)

There are so many amazing things to experience in the Twisp area. Want to add a bit of the Arts to your adventure? Done! Consider these creative options for your next stay in the area:

  • Perhaps you’d like to stay right in the middle of all that Twisp action. Drop off your bags at the very cool Twisp River Hotel Suites, located on the lovely Twisp River and relax in style.
  • I’m a sucker for a good vintage or thrift shop. I had a great time perusing the goods at The Thrifty Fox in downtown Twisp. (Open Wednesday thru Saturday, 10am – 4pm. Closed Sunday – Tuesday.)
  • Featuring local artists, the Confluence Gallery is an excellent place to check out all things arty. (Open Thursday – Saturday, 10am – 5pm)
  • Should you be looking for some local theatre or maybe even a theatre camp, check out The Merc Playhouse in downtown Twisp. Check online for upcoming shows and auditions.
  • Located in the downtown area, the Methow Valley Interpretive Center features exhibits and an interpretive garden focusing on indigenous peoples and natural surroundings of the area. They also feature very interesting events and classes. (Open Friday – Sunday, Noon – 4pm, 10am on Saturday)
  • You can find Samantha Carlin’s work in various shops around the area, but Twisp-based Lucid Glassworks is also available online. I picked up a lovely glass from the Sun Mountain gift shop and I’m looking forward to expanding to a full set. (Currently waiting for it to ship, in fact!)
  • For a great opportunity to enjoy all things Twisp and gear up for the holidays, check out their Mistletoe Madness celebration in the downtown area. (December 3rd, 2021 from 3-7pm)

I can’t say enough good about local arts mecca, Twispworks, located in the downtown area. It’s an incredibly cool artist collective, sculpture garden, business incubator and more. A must-stop for your next Twisp visit. A few of the eclectic spots to explore at Twispworks:

  • If you’re looking for tasty beer, visit the OSB Taproom, located on the TwispWorks campus. An extension of Winthrop’s Old Schoolhouse Brewery, this new production facility and adjacent taproom are a great place to spend an afternoon. They also feature Methow Pure sparkling water. (Open Monday – Friday, 3pm – close and Saturday – Sunday, noon to close.)
  • Outside food is welcome at the OSB Taproom and Saskatoon Kitchens is ready to fill the bill. Located on the Twispworks campus, they feature some very tasty items. (Check out their Menu!)
  • Featuring artisan gifts and goods from the Methow Valley and Okanogan County, Methow Valley Goods is the perfect place to stop for that special gift. (Open Monday – Saturday, 11am – 4pm. Also available online!)
  • If you’re in the market for beautiful, hand-dyed wearable art, Culler Studio is the place to be! (Thursday/ Friday, 10am – 4pm, Saturday, 10am – 2pm. Closed Sunday – Wednesday.)
  • Featuring super cool bags, wallets, masks and more, the innovative eqpd is a great place to check out. Their HEPA masks and stadium bags are super rad!  (Monday – Friday, 10am – 4pm, Saturday to 2pm, Closed Sunday)
  • Check out the Fireweed Print Shop for their letterpress facilities and unique hand-printed items. (Open Thursday/Friday, Noon – 4pm and Saturday, 11am – 2pm. Closed Sunday – Wednesday.)
  • As soon as I have a spot to hang one of their one-of-a-kind nests, I’m heading directly to Nice Nests. These species-specific nesting boxes use recycled materials and are absolutely charming. (Call for hours)

Okanogan County has definitely cornered the market on amazing outdoor opportunities and Twisp certainly holds up its part of the bargain. Beauty is everywhere! Here are a few amazing spots from which to view the majesty:

Trees
Take a moment and enjoy the beauty of the area…

After reveling in the artistic grandeur of Twisp, it was time to head back into the surrounding mountains. As a skier, it’s long been on my bucket-list to ski every ski hill in the state. Sadly, I still have a few places on my list and nearby Loup Loup Ski Bowl is one of them. Since I’m located on the west side of the state and the North Cascades pass is closed during the winter, it’s a bit of a haul to get to the area. However, since my most recent trip was in the summer months, I merrily made the trek. (Sans skis, unfortunately.)

Located in between Twisp and Okanogan off of SR-20, Loup Loup is small, but mighty. They have runs to suit all levels as well as cross-country trails and… Luge sledding!! I might just have to make the long winter trek to the area and check it out. A snow cat ferries lugers up the mountain, where an epic-looking ride down then ensues. COOL! And should snowmobiles be more your thing, head to the South Summit Sno-Park and unload your beast. (The area also features groomed cross-country trails.) Located on the south summit of Loup Loup pass.

Pro Tip: For the record, I’m used to driving in snow and I’ve driven my fair share of wacky ski-hill access roads. That said, the portion of SR-20 leading to Loup Loup pass and ski hill is not for the faint of heart, or driver of non-winter-friendly vehicles. Make sure you have chains and/or AWD during the colder months.

Another route out of Twisp is via SR-153. This path heads east towards a more arid region along the Columbia River before meeting with US-97. If you plan to head further north from Twisp, SR-20 is the most direct route, but heading down SR-153 allows a look at a beautiful part of the Columbia River as well as a visit to the nearby towns of Pateros and Brewster.

Located directly on the Columbia River at an especially wide bend in the river, Pateros is a nice place to enjoy a bit of sun. Set at the confluence of the Columbia and Methow Rivers, it is a particularly excellent spot for all water-based endeavors. Nearby Brewster offers many outdoor opportunities and sweeping views of the river. A few options to consider should you be visiting the area:

  • If you’d like to wake up to a view of the beautiful Columbia River, be sure to book Howards on the River for your overnight stay. In addition to the beautiful view, they feature a boat launch to help with your pursuit of watersports. Hit up their Super Stop for gas and groceries and adjacent restaurant, Rivers by Ed’s Mudville for a tasty breakfast, lunch or dinner.
  • Featuring scratch-baked goods, coffee, pizza and more, The Sweetriver Bakery is a great place to stop in the town center. They also feature live music in the summer months on their back patio. (Open daily, 7am – 7pm)
  • Stop in at the Pateros Museum for a look into the history of the area. (City Hall entrance – Open Monday – Friday, 8am – 4:30pm) Don’t miss the Methow Monument Native American sculpture park located behind City Hall near the river. For a more in-depth look into local Native American history and heritage, visit Fort Okanogan Interpretive Center in nearby Brewster. Managed by the Confederated Tribes of the Colville Reservation, the center features an emphasis on the Okanogan Tribe. (Open Wednesday – Friday, 8:30am – 4pm from May – September)
  • If you’re looking for golf action, there are great options in the area. Along with golf, the Pateros Alta Lake Golf Resort features lodging and a café by the name of Scratch. (Café open daily 7am – 3pm, 4pm on Friday/Saturday) Located in Brewster, the Gamble Sands course and their Danny Boy Bar & Grill are also a great choice. (Open daily, 60-min after sunrise – 10pm. Winter hours vary – check online) Lodging can be found at The Inn at Gamble Sands, which features a pool, fire pits and beautiful views of the Columbia River.
  • If you’d prefer to rough it a bit, nearby Alta Lake State Park offers camping, hiking, fishing, wind-surfing and swimming. (Discover Pass required for parking and permit required for boating.)
  • Should you be visiting during the winter, ample snowmobiling and x-country skiing opportunities can be found in the Black Canyon and South Fork Gold Creek sno-park areas. (Sno-Park permits required)
  • The towns of Pateros and Brewster and relatively small, but they do feature some big celebrations. Going since 1947, the Apple Pie Jamboree takes place the third weekend in July and is a great opportunity to indulge your love of pie as well as jet-ski races, fireworks and more. Taking advantage of that big bend in the river, the Pateros Hydro Races feature old-school hydroplanes in all their speedy glory. (August 26-28, 2022)

The most common route when heading north from Pateros and Brewster is via US-97. If you’re partial to roads less traveled, hit up Old Highway 97 off of US-97 in the Brewster area. It’s a lovely, tranquil route with acres of cherry orchards, waving fields of grain and sweeping vistas. That said, there was a bit of road construction on my last trip and several miles of it were unpaved gravel. It was well worth it, however, to experience the area from a less modern perspective. It was very easy to imagine riding horseback through the area en route to the next outpost…

Along the route, there are some excellent places to stop for a rest, enjoy the views and sample the area’s bounty. A couple of options to check out on your trek through the backroads:

  • Pull over in tiny Malott and visit the charming Malott Country Store. Along with all-day breakfast and desserts, they feature coffee, groceries, ice cream and more! (Open Monday – Friday, 9am – 7pm, Saturday, 10am – 7pm and Sunday, 11am – 6pm)
  • Don’t miss a stop at Smallwood Farms, located on SR-20 after the merge with Old Highway 97. Along with being a working farm, it’s a restaurant, fruit stand and grocery/gift store – and they have plenty of picnic space! If you’re into cherries, you’ll be extremely happy with your visit. (in season, of course) The store/restaurant is open seasonally – check online for hours.

After adventuring on Old Highway 97 and merging onto SR-20, it’s not too long before you’re back on the modern US-97. Heading further north on US-97 will soon bring you to the county seat of Okanogan County, fittingly named Okanogan. Established in 1888, Okanogan has long been at the center of local area commerce and culture. Located along the Okanogan River, it continues to serve as an important part of Okanogan County industry and interests.

One of the very interesting stories to be found in Okanogan involves the life and work of artist, Frank Matsura. After emigrating from Japan to the US in the early 1900s, he answered a Seattle newspaper ad and was hired at a hotel in nearby Conconully. During his time at the hotel, he spent his spare time photographing the Okanogan area and eventually moved into Okanogan proper in 1907. He became well known as both a photographer and muralist and contributed greatly to the commemoration of early Okanogan life and heritage. In January of 2022, a 60-foot mural was discovered during renovation of a downtown Okanogan building. (c. 1907) The hand-painted mural is being potentially attributed to Frank Matsura and the building’s new owners are currently working to restore the mural.

To explore the culture, history and industry of Okanogan and surrounding areas, consider these great options for your next visit:

  • Learn more about Frank Matsura and the early days of Okanogan with a visit to the Okanogan County Historical Museum in the downtown area. In addition to the museum, there is a firehouse exhibit next door as well an outdoor, historic Okanogan exhibit. (Open Memorial Day weekend – Labor Day weekend, call for hours/days)
  • For local festivities, entertainment and all things fried, head to the Okanogan County Fair & Rodeo every September and revel in this celebration of the county. If you’re in need of some new boots or a cowboy hat to pep up your rodeo-attending attire, stop in at longtime Okanogan staple, Rawson’s and get yourself outfitted.
  • Enjoy the area bounty and explore offerings from local artisans at the Okanogan Valley Farmers Market. (Saturdays, May thru October, 9am – 1pm. Hot tip: There is also a Tuesday version in nearby Omak from 3:30 – 6:30pm, June thru October.)

Important to any adventure is a great meal and a cozy place to stay. Okanogan can certainly help you out in both departments. On your next visit, check out these fine establishments:

  • For hearty panini sandwiches and fresh salads, head to The 509 – just good food for a tasty lunch. Monday – Friday, 10:30am – 2pm. Closed Sat/Sun
  • If a place features “wieners and wine,” I’m in! The Dawg House, located in the heart of downtown features both as well as delicious BBQ and a respectable tap list – not to mention mouthwatering cheesecake. They also feature live music on weekends and great outdoor seating. (Wednesday – Saturday, 4-8pm)
  • If you’re in the mood for a hearty breakfast or juicy burger, stop by local fav, the Stockyard Café and fill up. Also, they have crinkle fries. Very important to note. (Open Tuesday – Saturday, 7am – 2pm)
  • I require a good cup of coffee (or three) in the morning and drive-thru spot, Free Bird Espresso fully came to the rescue on my recent visit. (Open Monday – Friday, 5:45am – 6pm, Saturday/Sunday, 6:45am – 5pm)
  • There are Vrbo and Airbnb options in the greater Okanogan area, but on my last visit I stayed at the local Quality Inn & Suites. It’s relatively basic, but reasonably priced and the staff was very friendly and helpful. Located close to US-97, it’s well situated as a base for exploring the area.

Not far north on US-97 lies the largest city in Okanogan County, Omak and its suburb, North Omak. The area is famous for its yearly Omak Stampede, but there are many great ways to enjoy the area. Located in the foothills of the Okanogan Highlands, a hilly, mountain range spread across Canada, Washington and Northern Idaho, the dark skies alone are worth a visit. It is also a great base of operations for your northern Washington adventures.

Okanogan is a big county and you’ve likely worked up a big appetite if you’ve made it all the way up to Omak. There are many great options to stave off the hunger on your next visit:

  • Check out the fresh bread and home-style cooking made with locally sourced ingredients in this classic Omak location. (c. 1906) The Breadline Café offers tasty lunch and dinner and is open Tuesday – Friday, 11am – 8pm.
  • Located on the main route through town, Magoo’s Family Restaurant features classic, diner breakfasts all day and hearty lunch options. (Open daily at 7am, 11am on Wednesdays.)
  • Stop in at family-run Red Rooster Grill for classic diner dishes with an international flair. Located in the heart of downtown Omak and open daily from 8am – 9:30pm.
  • Head to the hip, downtown spot, The Loggerhead for artisan pizza, good beer and a fun atmosphere. This family friendly location in downtown Omak is typically open Wednesday – Saturday, 3-9:30pm. (Check online as they are open seasonally – and for the occasional special event in the off-season.)
  • These guys were closed on my last visit, but I WILL be back and I’m planning on a tasty visit. Los Gallos, a restaurant and bar located in downtown Omak features not only Mexican fare, but Chinese as well! That’s a dream fusion, in my foodie opinion. Open daily, 11am – 8pm (11pm, Thursday – Sunday)
  • Located just out of North Omak and flanked by orchards and farmland, the Rockwall Cellars Winery is a nice spot to relax with a glass of wine. In the summer, their tasting room is open Monday – Saturday, 11am – 6pm. During January – April, it’s open Thursday – Saturday, 11am – 5pm. They also host live music and feature “Wine Down Wednesdays” from7-9pm. Bring your own food – there’s a BBQ available for grilling.

I will admit to enjoying a visit here and there to a good casino. Video poker? Yes, please. Is that a Zillion Gators slot machine I see there?? Move out of my way! (Damn. Now I have the ridiculous Zillion Gators theme song stuck in my head. I have no one to blame but myself.) If you’re visiting the Okanogan/Omak area, smack dab in the middle is the 12 Tribes Resort Casino, operated by the Confederated Tribes of the Colville Reservation. Featuring a large array of slots and table games, the casino also hosts several onsite restaurants, hotel and RV lodging and spa facilities. The casino is a hot spot for nightlife and entertainment in the area and a fun evening out. That said, they didn’t actually have Zillion Gators. I looked… Maybe next time?

While there is much to do in the Omak area year-round, one of the most popular attractions takes place over the second weekend in August. The Omak Stampede has been entertaining visitors since 1933 and features western and native art shows, the Indian Encampment & Pow Wow and the famous Suicide Race. Whether or not you’re a fan of horses and their riders careening down an insanely steep trail in the Suicide Race, there are many sights, sounds and tasty treats to enjoy at the Omak Stampede. (August 11-14, 2022 – Always second weekend in August)

If don’t happen to be around during the Stampede festivities, consider these entertaining options for your visit:

  • Featuring first-run films in a classic movie house setting, the Omak & Mirage Theaters in downtown Omak are the places to be. They also host drive-in movies at the Stampede Arena during the summer months.
  • While currently closed during Covid times, the Omak Performing Arts Center hopes to be back soon. Featuring all varieties of performance, both local and touring, they are the premier destination for the performing arts in the area.
  • If you’re looking for a unique getaway, head to Pine Stump Farms­ for one of their package deals. They feature a Country Weekend that comes with food, lodging and excursions of your choice. (Horseback riding, swimming, canoeing or hiking) as well as horseback adventures of varying length. And be sure to try their tasty cheeses on your visit!
  • If enjoying the natural beauty of the area is on your agenda, check out Omak lake, Washington’s largest salt lake. Located in the foothills of the Okanogan Highlands, the area features beaches, camping, fishing, swimming, boating and more. This beautiful area in Colville Federated Tribes land is well worth a visit. (Camping and boat launch permits required.) Also found in the Omak Lake area is the gravity-defying, 40-ton behemoth known as the Omak Balance Rock. You can hold it up with one finger!

If the laid-back scene in Okanogan and Omak still isn’t mellow enough, consider heading towards Conconully on Conconully Road just out of Okanogan. Set in a beautiful mountain valley, Conconully is surrounded by forest, stunningly dark skies, two lakes and an endless variety of outdoor opportunity. Home to snowmobiling, camping, hunting, fishing and more, it’s the perfect place to commune with the sportsperson in you.

Most importantly, it’s home to the annual Outhouse Races. (The 2022 races took place on January 15th) If you’re not inspired to build your own outhouse racer, line up along the course as outhouses careen down the street. True story! Check out the short film, “Fast Crapper” for an in-depth look into this very excellent Conconully tradition.

Whether you’re in the area to enjoy the outdoors or the outhouses, Conconully has some food and lodging options to help you appreciate your stay:

  • Hit up the Conconully General Store for all your gas, groceries, gifts, and treat needs. (And more!) They’ll also be hosting a local vendor market beginning the weekend of April 23rd, 2022.
  • If you’re up for hearty burgers or pizza, stop in at the Red Rock Saloon and trade some fishing tales with your buddies. Open Tuesday – Saturday, 4pm – 2am. Family friendly. (Closed Sunday/Monday)
  • Enjoy a bit of classic breakfast and pub fare at the Sit ‘n Bull Saloon. Open Monday – Thursday, 9am – 11pm, Friday/Saturday, 8am – 11pm and Sunday, 9am – 10pm. Family friendly.
  • If you happen to be in town on the fourth Saturday in September, don’t miss the Stew & Brew event. A mere $15 buys you tastings of several stews and local brews.
  • Learn more about this tiny community at the Conconully Area Historical Museum. (Open weekends and holidays, 10am – 4pm, Memorial Day to Labor Day and by appointment.)
  • There are plenty of great lodging and camping areas in and around Conconully. The Liar’s Cove Resort, Shady Pines Resort and Gibson’s North Fork Lodge all feature cabins and access to local lakes, fishing, boating and more.
  • Also featuring five cabins as well as RV and campsite accommodations, Conconully State Park features ample boating, camping, fishing, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and snowmobiling opportunities. (Discover Pass required. Fishing and boating permits required. Park facilities closed during the winter.)
  • Heading deeper into the forest surrounding Concunully, you’ll find the Salmon Meadows Campground. This area provides access to the Angel Pass Trail as well access to many snowmobiling and horse trails.
US 97
Okanogan Highlands and fruit on US 97

Heading closer to the Canadian border via US-97 will bring you to the tiny town of Tonasket. Fruit is big business in Okanogan County and Tonasket is an important player in the scene. Celebrate their part in one of Washington’s most important industries at these Tonasket spots:

  • Located off of Highway 7, Apple Cart Fruit features farm-fresh fruit throughout the year. Apples, cherries, apricots, peaches, nectarines and more! Open daily, 8am – 5pm, closed Sundays.
  • If you’re in the mood for homemade pie made with local fruit, stop by the quaint Shannon’s Place and dig in. If you need more than pie, check out their hearty breakfasts and weekend dinners. Open daily from 7:00am – 2:30pm. Friday/Saturday, open for dinner 4:30-7pm.
  • Stock up on all things natural and organic at the Tonasket Natural Foods Co-op. They feature an in-store deli with soup and sandwiches, local produce, meats, eggs and more. Open Monday – Friday, 9am – 7pm, Saturday, 9am – 6pm and Sunday, 11am – 4pm.
  • If you’re in the market for antiques or an eclectic gift, stop by The Olde Creamery and find your bliss. Open Monday – Saturday, 9am – 5:30pm, 8:30pm on Saturdays.
  • Buy directly from local artisans and farmers at the seasonal Tonasket Farmers Market. (Thursdays, 2-6pm, Mid May-October)
  • As is the case across Okanogan County, there are many beautiful areas to explore just out of town. Head to Bonaparte Lake and the Bonaparte Lake Campground for an outdoor adventure. The lake is very popular for fishing, including ice fishing in the winter. Along with stellar fishing, the campground features a boat launch, camping, swimming and hiking. (Fishing license required.)
  • For stunning hiking and very cool rock climbing options, hit up the Whistler Canyon Trailhead and take in the beautiful scenery. (Trailhead entrance located just off US-97.)
  • Should you feel like exploring the ghost towns of Okanogan County, head east on SR-20 out of Tonasket towards Wauconda and Old Wauconda. Outside of visiting the ghosts of Washington’s past, there isn’t much to do, but the drive is interesting and fairly quiet. Unfortunately, not to be confused with Wakanda.

If you’ve made it as far as Oroville, it’s only a few more miles to the Canadian border. You’ve also been traversing the beautiful Okanogan Trails Scenic Byway for the past 80 miles from Pateros and as you’ve seen during your trek, this part of the state packs in quite a bit of scenic wonder. If you’re looking to add more road trip street-cred to your adventure, check out the Highland Historic Loop (features northern Okanogan County and includes parts of adjacent Grant County) and the Many Lakes Historic Loop. (out of Oroville, heads to Nighthawk ghost town and on to Loomis and Conconully)

Oroville is the last town before the Canadian border. On my recent visit, the border was still closed due to Covid, but when open, it’s a very low-key affair to cross borders. None of those multiple lanes and gates; One lane and one gate. Voila! You’re in Canada! (As long as you have your passport or Washington State enhanced ID, of course.) Osoyoos is the closest Canadian town to the border and Penticton is just up from there. If you happened to have read my first Puerto Vallarta article, Penticton is home to the awesome couple I met during my adventures, Jorgen and Jen. Last I knew, Jorgen was head of the ski team at Penticton area Apex Mountain Resort, a ski hill I’d very much like to visit one of these days. I never cease to be amazed at just how small a world we all share.

Even during Covid times, it’s been possible to spend the day adventuring into Canada. Granted, it’s via water and you can’t legally touch the shore, but it’s still an international adventure! Spanning the border between the US and Canada, the international waters of Osoyoos Lake provide many relaxing opportunities for both Americans and Canadians. It’s possible to traverse the entire lake without a passport as long as you don’t go to land. Put in at the lovely Osoyoos Lake Veteran’s Memorial Park in Oroville and spend the day cruising the lake. In addition to a boat launch, the park also features fishing, swimming and camping.

When visiting the park, be sure to check out the private pond off to the side of the parking area. The number of trout in that pond – and the amount of commotion they were causing during my visit – was fantastic! (But it’s a private pond, so please don’t drop in a pole.) There was also an amazing variety of birds in the area. For more info about birding in the area, check out the Cascade Loop portion of the Audubon Society Great Washington Birding Trail.

In addition to Oroville’s dining opportunities, there are also some great ways to sample from the area’s wine scene. A few of the spots to help you enjoy your stay:

  • For beautiful views and a little vino, head to Esther Bricques Winery & Vineyard, located off US-97 between Tonasket and Oroville. They’re open daily from 1-6pm as well as Thursday evenings at 6pm for live music and tastings. (Thursday night events are year-round, but call ahead to make sure they’re open for afternoon tastings as they might be out in the vineyard.)
  • It was a beautiful sunny day on my last visit to Oroville and a stop at Taber’s Taste of Summer was the perfect way to celebrate. Set adjacent to a beautiful cherry orchard, this seasonal fruit stand, greenhouse and gift shop is a must-stop. The lovely owners also host “Wine Wednesdays” from 6-9pm with live music and food, which is a great opportunity to enjoy wine from their Copper Mountain Vineyards. (Opens in May, 10am – 5pm, fall hours vary seasonally)
  • While not a wine shop, Akins Fresh Market offers a good selection of local wine and beer as well as tasty treats for your picnic basket. (Open daily, 8am – 8pm) And don’t miss a stop at adjacent Country Store for all sorts of things you didn’t know you needed. Like my new “I heart Chickens” hoodie, for instance. (Open Monday – Saturday, 8am – 7pm, Sunday, 9am – 6pm)
  • Should you be craving a frosty beer rather than a glass of red, stop in at the Pastime Brewery and wet your whistle. (That said, they feature local wines as well!) In addition to a good tap list, they also feature house-smoked meats with homemade sauces and locally sourced ingredients. (Thursday – Monday, noon – 8pm. Closed Tuesday/Wednesday.)

On your next Oroville visit, why not enjoy some of that beautiful lake and mountain scene with a stay at one of the many local lodging establishments:

  • If you’ve been exploring the area around Osoyoos Lake, no doubt you’ve noticed how many homes dot the shoreline. If you’d like to spend more time on and around the lake, check out the Veranda Beach Resort. This upscale resort area is directly on the lake and features cottages, boating slips, a diner, grocery store and Veranda Beach Cellars winery.
  • Located west of Tonasket and Oroville, the Wannacut Lake Resort offers cabins, cottages and campsites on the lake. They have electric boat rentals available and a newly renovated restaurant opening sometime this year. (Opens for 2022 in on April 20th)
  • For a charming B&B experience in a beautiful ranch setting, head to Buena Vista Lodging in the North Oroville area for a relaxing weekend.
  • Work off some of that wining and dining on the Similkameen River Trail, a former railroad line located just west of Oroville off of US-97. Enjoy hiking, biking and gorgeous views on this easy-going paved/graveled trail.
Osoyoos Lake
Private homes and resorts dot the shores of Osoyoos Lake

Okanogan County is a jackpot for ghost towns and opportunities to take a step back in time abound. For a particularly fascinating look into county, state and international history, head to tiny Molson, a ghost town and museum located up Chesaw Road out of Oroville. The drive alone is worth the effort for its rolling hills, winding roads and absolute, complete solitude. Additionally, Molson sits very close to the Canadian border and there’s a country road (9 Mile Road) which parallels the country-dividing train tracks just out of Molson, all the way back down to Chesaw Road and into Oroville. Such an amazing part of the state! (Pro Tip: Cell reception cuts in and out on these roads and there isn’t a lot of traffic. Make sure you have a paper map on hand and know how to change a tire.)

The history you’re able to see along the drive to Molson is noteworthy, but you’ll want to grab your camera and jump out of the car as soon as you enter this tiny town. The first area you’ll come upon is the site of Old Molson and its now ghostly visage. Park in the small area just after turning into the site and get ready to transport back in time.

The buildings of Old Molson are largely intact with interiors which have been lost to the sands of time as well as portions featuring a museum-like format. This struck an engaging balance between stumbling upon a long-lost secret and handily learning all about it with an informative exhibit. I very much enjoyed exploring this slice of NW history and look forward to spending more time learning about the area on future visits.

Since Molson is very close to what is now the American/Canadian border, the area has quite a bit of shared history with our Canadian neighbors. As you drive into Old Molson, both flags are flying and after exploring the town, it’s an appropriate statement. So much trade, commerce and shared resources were a regular part of Molson’s day to day life and the international lines were often very blurred.

After roaming around Old Molson, do not miss a stop at the Molson Museum, located just past the ghost town. Originally the area’s schoolhouse, it has been closed for that purpose since 1969 and is now a fascinating museum dedicated to local history. The displays are well put together, charming and paint a very vivid picture of Molson life and times. An added bonus was the incredibly helpful and informative volunteer museum staff. They were very happy to discuss the area as well as serve up 50-cent coffee and brownies. I want all of my museum trips to be just like that! (Open daily from 10am – 5pm – Memorial Day thru Labor Day)

If you’re making the trek in and around Molson, there are many other points of history and interest to find in the area. Get out your map and find your way to these great spots on your next visit:

  • If you happen to be visiting Molson over the last weekend in August, head to the Molson Grange Hall for the popular Highland Stitchers Show & Sale. Beautiful, handmade quilts are on display and for sale! (Last Saturday in August, 9am – 3pm)
  • Taking place in Chesaw, every July 4th since 1942, the Chesaw Rodeo is a time-honored tradition in the area. Classic rodeo events, a parade, food and more! Another fun summer event in Chesaw is Chesaw Hot August Nights, featuring a classic car show and more. (The event was cancelled in 2021, but typically takes place the last Saturday in August)
  • If you’re visiting during winter and want to get in some skiing, make the trek up to cozy Sitzmark Ski Area. Follow Chesaw Road off of US-97 in Oroville up to Havillah Road and enjoy one of Washington’s old-school ski hills. (Open Thursday – Sunday. Lifts open 10am – 4pm. Ski hut and lodge open at 9am.)
  • For a bit of cross-country skiing on a network of groomed trails complete with warming hut, head to the Highlands Nordic Sno-park, located off of US-97 in Tonasket and up the Tonasket-Havillah Road. (Or take US-97 to Chesaw Road and onto Tonasket-Havillah Road.) A non-motorized Sno-Park Permit is required.
  • If you haven’t fulfilled your ghost town quota, head to Nighthawk, home to the oldest mining claim in the state. (c. 1860) Located on the opposite side of Oroville as Molson, take the Loomis-Oroville Road, west out of Oroville.

Yowsa! Okanogan County is a very large area to cover… But we did it! For the sake of wrapping up this particular Washington State odyssey, I’m going to save the spectacular Grand Coulee Dam for my upcoming Grant County adventure. Located in both Okanogan and Grant Counties, Grand Coulee Dam is an adventure not to be missed, but we’ll spend some quality time there during my Grant County travels. I promise!

And with that, we’ve come to the end of the road for Okanogan County. Well, not really, as we just left off in the middle of nowhere near Molson. Still a few miles to go before we get back home… Just as there are many ways to get in and around Okanogan County, there are equal amounts of beautiful routes to get you home. For this outing, I traveled back south on US-97 towards Pateros and Brewster, over to Blewett Pass and back towards I-90 and Seattle. It was a great drive! Bottom line, any path you take in and out of Okanogan County will inevitably be filled with beauty and adventure. It’s just a Washington State fact!

Until next time – Happy trails!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Wind through the backroads of Okanogan County with my SPOTIFY PLAYLIST

  • Medicine – Grace Potter & The Nocturnals (from Grace Potter & The Nocturnals)
  • The Long Way Home – Norah Jones (from Feels Like Home)
  • These Days – Jackson Browne (from For Everyman)
  • You Can Close Your Eyes – James Taylor (from Mud Slide Slim and the Blue Horizon)
  • Right Down the Line – Gerry Rafferty (from City to City)
  • Wish the Wind Would Blow Me – Bob Schneider (from Burden of Proof)
  • I Gotta Get Drunk – The Little Willies (from The Little Willies)
  • Can’t Find My Way Home – Ellen McIlwaine (from Up From the Skies: The Polydor Years)
  • Fruits of My Labor – Lucina Williams (from World Without Tears)
  • A Little Too Soon to Say – Jackson Browne (from A Little Too Soon to Say)
  • Bigger Boat (feat. Randy Newman) – Brandy Clark (from Your Life Is A Record)
  • Mountain Greenery – Kat Edmonson, Vince Giordano & The Nighthawks (from Café Society)
  • Baker Street – Shawn Colvin, David Crosby (from Uncovered)
  • I Wish I Was the Moon – Neko Case (from Blacklisted)
  • Just Like Heaven – Katie Melua (from Piece by Piece)
  • I Make the Dough, You Get the Glory – Kathleen Edwards (from Asking for Flowers)
  • Wildflowers – The Wailin’ Jennys (from Fifteen)
  • September Fields – Frazey Ford (from Indian Ocean)
  • I Must Be in A Good Place Now – Fruit Bats, Vetiver (from In Real Life – Live at Spacebomb Studios)
  • Keep Me in Your Heart – Warren Zevon (from The Wind)
  • White Horses – Darlingside (from Birds Say)
  • Take the Long Way Home – Supertramp (from Breakfast in America)
Pine Cones
Happy trails to you!

Check out more I Ate the State adventures!

I Ate the State: Whatcom County

Greetings!

Whatcom County corners the market on gateways. Not only does it provide stunning, waterway access to the Puget Sound, it grants passage to some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in North America. Throw in the actual Peace Arch gateway to Canada and you’ve got the triple crown of sightseeing. This, in addition to an interior filled with vibrant history, city life and beautiful countryside makes it an excellent place to visit any time of year.

There are many ways to arrive in Whatcom County. The main thoroughfare of Interstate-5 is typically a fairly efficient route, but don’t discount the many smaller highways and scenic byways which lead to and around the county. This applies to travel into Canada as well. The Peace Arch entrance, located on the 49th Parallel (north), off of I-5 is a great place to cross the border, but don’t forget about the smaller Sumas and Lynden crossing points. (Interesting fact: While there are only a few official points of entry between Canada and Washington State, Whatcom County shares its entire northern border with Canada.)

Peach Arch Park
One of the Whatcom County gateways between the US and Canada – Peach Arch Park in Blaine

I’ll be covering many of the highways and byways of Whatcom County throughout the article, but let’s first focus on the northernmost part of the county; the tiny, but nationally important town of Blaine.

Set directly on the US/Canada border, it’s fairly safe to say that most Washingtonians are familiar with Blaine for this very reason. Relatedly, I must sadly admit to never having spent much time in the area. If I’ve found myself in Blaine, it’s because I’m lingering in the long line of cars waiting to cross into Canada. (I-5 becomes BC Highway 99 in Canada.) Aside from participating in last year’s Ragnar – NW Passage race, which starts at the Peace Arch Historical Park, I haven’t stopped in to visit Blaine proper. I hereby swear to include Blaine in my future visits to the northern wilds of Washington and Canada.

Downtown Blaine is a lovely destination and a great place for strolling along a historic waterfront area. Quaint shops, tasty restaurant fare and great views of historic Drayton Harbor can easily fill an afternoon. Should you be visiting during the first weekend of August, check out the Drayton Harbor Maritime Festival & Tall Ships for music, food and all things seafaring.

If you’d like to extend your stay in the area, hop aboard the historic Plover Passenger Ferry, operating out of scenic Blaine Harbor Marina during the summer months. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places and the oldest foot passenger ferry in the state, the Plover can accommodate 20 passengers (including bikes and dogs) on its 25-minute crossing to Semiahmoo Spit. (Named for the Semiahmoo First Nation, the original inhabitants of the area.) It departs on the hour from the Blaine Visitor’s Dock at Blaine Harbor (Gate 2) and on the half-hour from the Plover Dock at the Semiahmoo Resort. Check out the world-class resort for its golf course, spa services and great dining at the Great Blue Heron Grill and Packers Kitchen & Bar. When in the area, be sure to also visit Semiahmoo Park for beautiful views of Semiahmoo Bay and great beach strolls. (Note: Semiahmoo Resort is accessible by boat, car or seaplane)

PeachArchPark
Looking out to Semiahmoo Bay from the Peace Arch Historical Park

Back on mainland Blaine, there are several interesting dining and shopping options to explore. Antiques, boutiques and more can be found in the waterfront area and nearby Blaine Marine Park offers great water views with nice areas for picnicking and beach-combing.

A few of the cool spots to check out while visiting downtown Blaine:

  • Check out the Drayton Harbor Oyster Company for incredibly fresh oysters, to stay or take out. Additionally, they have oyster stew, local beer and wine and a great view of the water. (Closed Tuesdays – check website for hours)
  • For homey breakfast and lunch fare, stop in at downtown Peace Arch City Café & Bar for a relaxing respite from your exploring. (Tues-Sun, 7:30am – 3pm)
  • Take in the extensive wine list at The Vault Wine Bar in downtown Blaine. Along with being an events space, they also feature a great restaurant. (Wed-Sun, 3pm – 9pm & 10pm on Fri/Sat)
  • Located in downtown Blaine, Café Rawganique is a tasty vegan café and bakery with a lifestyle store on the side. Grab an organic vegan sandwich and a cool pair hemp jeans – all in one spot!
  • NW favorite, Woods Coffee can be found in several locations around Whatcom County. The spot I recently visited while refueling for Ragnar was located at Birch Bay Square. I didn’t realize just how much I needed an Americano that morning…
  • Located on a farm just outside of Blaine, Atwood Ales brews French and Belgian style saison and farmhouse ales. They grow their own hops and fruit on their farm and produce some very tasty beverages. While they aren’t open to the public, they do occasionally have events such as chef’s nights and tours. Check out their website for upcoming events. Locally, they can be found on Saturdays at the nearby Bellingham Farmers Market.

Just south of Blaine, off of SR-548 lies the little beach town of Birch Bay. It can be somewhat sleepy during the off-season, but that also makes for some pretty peaceful beach strolling. I’ve visited both during the summer and off-season and have always had a lovely time. Birch Bay is a great location all on its own, but as it’s fairly close to Bellingham, it’s also a great jumping-off point for Whatcom County adventures.

Birch Bay
Great memories from a family vacation a few years back!

If you’re looking for lodging in the Birch Bay area, I’d recommend finding something close to Beachcomber Way. It’s the main road along the beach and is at the heart of coastal activities. (Including the Ragnar course!) A few options for your stay:

  • The area has several vacation club condos and on a recent stay with my brother and company, we hit up World Mark Birch Bay. It was located on Beachcomber Way and was incredibly convenient for maximum beach visitation. In addition, there are quite a few great Airbnb’s in the area as well as lodging in nearby towns such as Bellingham and Blaine.
  • Should you prefer the comfort of camper or tent, check out beautiful Birch Bay State Park on the bluff overlooking the beach. It’s a very large park with camping, boating, beach access, clamming, crabbing and more. On my last visit I saw several groups clamming and it looked like they were bringing in quite the haul. And don’t miss taking a stroll along the beach areas of the park – beautiful!
  • If you’re in the area during the first weekend of August, head to the Birch Bay Music Festival for music, food, craft vendors and beer/wine gardens. (7/31 – 8/2, 2020)
  • Head to the yearly Birch Bay Discovery Days for music, family events, food vendors and something called EXTREME CHAINSAW! Bring your biggest chainsaws. (8/29-30, 2019)
  • Traveling with kids? Hit up the Birch Bay Waterslides for summer fun in the sun. Waterslides, pools, concessions and more. (Open summers – Early June thru Labor Day)

There are several places to eat and shop along Beachcomber Way. The area is particularly alive during the warmer months, but several places are open year-round. Next time you’re in Birch Bay, consider these spots:

  • While only open during the summer, The C Shop makes the most of the warm weather. Offering delicious homemade candy and treats, along with pizza, sandwiches on house-baked bread, coffee drinks and ice cream, they’ve got everything you need for a sunny day. Their Turkish Delight is particularly delicious!
  • Located directly next door to The C Shop, The Beach Shack is tiny, but packs a punch with a quirky assortment of gifts, souvenirs, antiques and more.
  • Stop in at The Boardwalk Restaurant for breakfast specialties, fish-n-chips, burgers and outdoor seating with a view at this popular Birch Bay spot. (Check website for hours)
  • Found just across the street from The C Shop, the kitschy Birch Bay Café serves breakfast and lunch as well as baked goods and coffee. In addition to their menu, they have a gift shop and also rent bikes, kayaks and paddle boards. (Closed Mondays – check website for hours)
  • For waterside dining with outdoor seating and a great view, check out the newly reopened and remodeled Bay Breeze. Seafood, burgers and more! (They were forced to close in December after a strong storm brought waves crashing through their windows!)

A little further south off of I-5, we come to the small town of Ferndale. There are many lovely things going on in the Ferndale area, but I immediately think of two things: The crazy beagle I live with, Finley from Ferndale, and running my first leg of the Ragnar race. Since neither of these items are likely on your list, let’s explore a few of the other cool things about Ferndale. (But come on – who couldn’t love such a deviously smart beagle like Finley?? A deviously smart beagle who began her life on a small farm in Ferndale…)

In addition to goofy beagles and running out of breath during Ragnar, Ferndale offers many excellent adventures and distractions. Just a few of the cool things you can check out while in the area:

  • I had such a fun time hanging out at Pioneer Park, managed by the Ferndale Heritage Society. It’s a unique, educational and entertaining way to spend an afternoon. During my visit, I had the pleasure of learning more about the area from the very charming tour guides, James and Julie. Dressed in period garb, they gave me a very detailed description of the various structures as well as a great insight into local Ferndale history. (Check out the tiny museum upstairs in the Parker House/General Store.) Make time to visit the well-maintained and restored village and enjoy your step back in time. I’ve been told their annual Olde Fashioned Christmas – Christmas in the Woods (Dec 6-8) is a great bit of winter fun and I’m looking forward to checking it out!

  • Just south of downtown Ferndale lies the spacious Hovander Homestead Park. Packed into 350 beautiful acres are the historic Hovander House (Tours available), the Hovander River trail (1.9 miles), a boat launch, a FRAGRANCE GARDEN and barn and farmyard displays. Pack a picnic and plan on spending a glorious day exploring the area. Don’t forget to include a visit to adjacent Tennant Lake Park for excellent bird-watching and a lovely boardwalk trail.
  • Don’t miss the annual Bellingham Scottish Gathering, put on by the Scottish Dance Society at the beginning of June. It takes place at Hovander Homestead Park and is a great day of Scottish games, piping, haggis and more. Och aye!
  • The annual Ferndale Street Festival hosts a great weekend of downtown fun. Live music, food and craft vendors, a car show and a PIE EATING CONTEST are just a few of the features. (Aug 23-24, 2019)
  • Stock up on local produce and artisan wares every Friday afternoon at the Ferndale Farmers Market in downtown Ferndale. (Fridays – 2-6pm, June 14th – Oct 11th)

More gratuitous shots of Finley…

Adventures and distractions can make one hungry. To fuel up after your Ferndale explorations, check out these great eateries:

  • I am always on the hunt for a good tamale. New Mexico Tamale Company in downtown Ferndale definitely fills the bill with their tasty selections. Be sure to try the traditional pork tamales made with Hatch chile! (Closed Sundays and Mondays)
  • Check out the great wine selection and tasty made-from-scratch Italian fare at Leader Block Wine Co. & Eatery on Main Street. They also feature great cocktails, regular live music and special event dinners.
  • While not necessarily common these days, I maintain it IS possible to make an entire meal of cheese. And maybe a good bottle of wine… If you concur, head to Twin Sisters Creamery and indulge in their delicious cheese selection. They also host tastings, tours and events. Check out their October Cheese & Brews for a tasty sampling of their cheese along with local beer. (Oct 30th)
  • If you can’t get enough delicious cheese, stop by Appel Farms and do a tasting in their cheese shop – or try a grilled cheese sandwich at their café. Come on – a creamery-to-table grilled cheese sandwich? It doesn’t get much better than that. (Tues-Sat, 11am – 6pm)
  • Check out Ferndale’s first commercial brewery, the newly minted FrinGe Brewing. They feature regular food trucks at their taphouse and are family and dog friendly. (Closed Mondays)

Heading further south from Ferndale (Exit 260 – Slater Road, off I-5), will bring you to the lands of the Lummi Nation and nearby Lummi Island. On my way to check out Lummi Island, I noted the Silver Reef Casino Resort, directly off of Slater Road. Not only that, I discovered there was a Skippers restaurant located inside the Lummi Bay Market in the same parking lot as the casino. Who am I to ignore both a casino and a Skippers? While I wouldn’t consider Skipper’s to be fine seafood dining, it does remind me of Tuesday nights in the ol’ Tri-Cities and “all-you-can-eat” at the local Skippers. Nostalgia… And come on – you get Jell-O AND coleslaw with your fish basket. Score! But should you not be up for a quick Skippers stop, check out The Steak House in the casino for a more leisurely affair.

Just across the water from the Lummi mainland sits lovely Lummi Island. Take a quick, 20-minute ride on the Lummi Island Ferry and enjoy the solitude of this most peaceful and relaxing locale. (The passenger/Car ferry – leaves every 20 minutes from Gooseberry Point.) This tiny community features a thriving Arts scene, beautiful shorelines and a whole lot of blissful quiet.

There are quite a few Airbnb opportunities on the island, but The Willows Inn is a great place to check out for more traditional lodging. They also feature upscale dining, spa services and additional off-site lodging opportunities. Just across the way from the inn is beautiful Sunset Beach. Overlooking Rosario Strait and nearby islands, it provides an enjoyable and serene way to while away the hours.

As Lummi Island is relatively small, there aren’t a lot of dining options available. That said, the Beach Store Café offers lunch and dinner along with regular live music, a great happy hour and various events. (Their hours and days open vary with the season, so be sure to check their website for details.) If you’re more in need of wine tasting, hit up the Artisan Wine Gallery for a sample of their wares. (Fridays and Saturdays)

Also happening on Saturdays – and a great way to pick up local specialties – is the Lummi Saturday Market. (Marketplace Field 10am – 1pm) Stock up for a picnic and hike up Lummi Mountain via the Baker Preserve Trail to take in the beautiful views of the neighboring San Juan Islands. And if you’re like me and love peonies, don’t pass up a stop at Full Bloom Farm to enjoy their many varieties as well as seasonal organic produce. They can also be found at their Farm stand which is open year ‘round. (You can even stay on the farm!)

Lummi Beach
Beautiful shore finds of Lummi

Nestled against Bellingham Bay and the Salish Sea, the eclectic city of Bellingham is at the core of Whatcom County commerce and culture. Serving as both the county seat and largest city in Whatcom County, Bellingham is a busy and vibrant hub of activity. (Also the largest, northernmost city in the contiguous US.) Often included on many “best of” lists such as places to visit, live and retire, Bellingham is brimming with things to do and areas to explore. EatLocalFirst is a great resource for things to do, sample and experience in the area and features events such as the Whatcom County Farm Tour (9/7 – 9/8), Culinary Adventures and the Fall Fruit Festival (10/5 – 10/6) to help show off the area’s bounty.

In complement to being nestled between beautiful coastal and mountainous regions, Bellingham prides itself on environmental stewardship and a large variety of outdoor pursuits. Filled with parks, trails and all things lush and green, the area is a nature lover’s fantasy land. A few of the beautiful outdoor areas to visit in and around Bellingham:

  • Visible from I-5 while driving south of Bellingham, Lake Samish is surrounded by tree-filled hillsides, with a community of homes dotting its shores. (Hillary Swank grew up in the area and Ryan Stiles presently lives on the lake.) Adjacent Samish Park has a nice day lodge for events, small public docks and a couple of nice trails alongside and above the lake. I took the Lakeshore Loop Trail and very much enjoyed the lakeside view, including the beautiful lily pads and cute picnic areas tucked into the trees. I’d always wondered about the big lake you could see from I-5… Now I know!

  • Iconic Whatcom Falls Park is a great place to enjoy deep, forested valley scenery, all within a few minutes of the downtown area. Don’t miss a photo-op next to the historic bridge and be sure to breathe in the fresh air while strolling on the Whatcom Creek Trail. (Pop Culture Note: I was very entertained to rock down to turn onto Electric Avenue to get to one of the park’s entrances. Additionally, someone in the area has It’s A Trap as their Wi-Fi name. HAA!)

  • Located just SE of Bellingham, the 10-mile long Lake Whatcom serves as both a great recreation area as well as the county reservoir. Lake Whatcom Park is an excellent escape from the daily grind, especially as experienced from one of its spectacular trails. Hertz Trail (Parking areas 1 or 2) and the newly updated Chanterelle Trail (Parking area 2) are two of the favorites in the area. Additionally, nearby Stimpson Family Nature Reserve and Lookout Mountain Forest Preserve (Just south of Whatcom Falls State Park) offer many trail options and much beautiful scenery.
  • While not your traditional nature trail, walking around the beautiful campus of Western Washington University could easily be considered a day hike. Surrounded by forest and beautifully landscaped grounds, it’s a great place to commune with nature, not to mention pursue a stellar education.

Speaking of trails, Bellingham has many types to offer. For instance, the Tap Trail and corresponding Tap Trail Passport are fine ways to explore the local brewery culture. Whatcom County overall hosts an excellent brewery scene and it would be a shame not to visit a few on your next adventure. Some of the great spots to beat a trail to in the Bellingham area:

  • Great food, great beer (all organic!) and a very cool space make Aslan Brewing Co. an excellent destination for lunch or dinner. They also have a nice happy hour! I particularly enjoy their seasonal Das Boot. (They also have a great taproom in Seattle’s Fremont neighborhood)
  • Located just around the corner from Aslan Brewing Co., Schweinhaus Biergarten features a great outdoor beer garden, long happy hours and tasty German pretzels and brats from their outdoor, wood-fired oven. (Family friendly – dog friendly)
  • Should you want to branch out from beer, head to Chuckanut Bay Distillery, located in the heart of downtown. Housed in a great old building that used to be JC Penney, they feature several award-winning spirits. Check out their bourbon and seasonal 110 proof Krampus (Closed Tues/Wed)
  • Situated directly across from the Farmers Market, the popular Boundary Bay Brewery & Bistro features a great menu which includes deviled eggs, classic meatloaf, bangers and mash and more. And two very important words about their taproom Hoppy Hour: TABLE BACON ($1/slice – Hoppy Hour in the taproom only). They are family friendly and the beer garden is dog-friendly.
  • Close to the Whatcom Co. Museum and tucked just off Prospect Street, family-friendly Bellingham Cider Co. is an excellent place to stop in for cider, food and a great view of the Waterfront area. Their menu features an outdoor pizza oven, chicken & waffles, spaghetti w/browned butter and crab and more. I particularly enjoy their Dry Cider and the Blackberry Ginger Cider. (Closed Mondays)
  • Not too far from Bellingham Cider Co., the tasty Chuckanut Brewery and Kitchen (North Nut location) features a great beer selection and a full menu with tasty sandwiches, burgers, seafood and more. If you enjoy lighter beers, I love their Kolsch and Vienna Lager. Family friendly. (Check out their South Nut location in nearby Burlington, mentioned in my recent Skagit County article)
  • With two Bellingham locations, Kulshan Brewing has much to offer the area. The beer hall, found north of downtown on James Street is family (and dog!) friendly and hosts regular food trucks and live music. The main taproom/brewhouse is located across I-5 in the Roosevelt neighborhood and features great outdoor seating, food trucks and live music. (This location is 21+) Check out their tasty Premium Lager and Pilsner brews.
  • Closely located to the Kulshan beer hall on James Street, Twin Sisters Brewing offers a tasty beer selection along with Saturday/Sunday brunch and a menu featuring sandwiches, burgers, small plates, tacos and cocktails. Check out their delicious Dufel-Sach Belgian-Style Golden Strong. (Tasting room closed Monday, but the restaurant is open. Family friendly.)
  • When wandering through the downtown area, head to Wander Brewing and sample their tasty beer selection. The large brew hall, set in a historic downtown building, features local food trucks and is family friendly. They’re also located just a few blocks up from an excellent sandwich shop, Sandwich Odyssey. (Across from Bellingham High School)
  • As an alternative to the beer scene, check out downtown Honey Moon Alley Bar & Ciderhouse for mead, cider and cocktails. They also feature a light food menu and regular live music in their intimate space, located off State Street alley, behind Pepper Sisters. (Great New Mexican restaurant – Closed Mondays, dinner only. They have mashed potato rellenos!)

Bellingham is a very walkable – and bikeable – city. It’s possible to explore much of the downtown and Waterfront areas all within a comfortable afternoon’s worth of walking or biking. (Including important stops at breweries and eateries along the way.) For an interesting trip around the historic buildings, murals, art installations and more, check out the Self-guided Story Maps courtesy of the City of Bellingham. (Also available for Bellingham’s predecessor city, Sehome, nearby Fairhaven and Highway 99)

Even without a map, it’s easy to have a very interesting, informative and delicious walk just by parking downtown and heading off in any direction. The Bellingham Farmers Market (Saturdays, 10am – 3pm, Apr – Dec) is a great place to start. They have an excellent selection of local goods and a covered hall for those rainy northwest days. Just a few blocks away, heading towards the water and Port of Bellingham are several more blocks of great trails to walk and sights to check out. The city of Bellingham has a long term plan to expand and revitalize the waterfront area and they are making visible strides towards their goal.

A few of the cool areas in the waterfront part of town:

Bellingham has a quirky sort of charm. They’ve got their own thing going on and the downtown area celebrates this individuality with great restaurants, museums and more. To experience some of the unique flavors and flair of Bellingham, consider these options:

  • Laying claim to the title of “oldest continually operating café and cocktail lounge in Washington State,” the iconic Horseshoe Café (c. 1886) features local ingredients and a menu filled with comfort food classics. Tasty cocktails, a good tap list and open late.
  • If you’re craving Russian dumplings (they’re delicious!), head over to Pel’meni in the University district for a tasty experience. They offer a small menu, but who needs more when you have PEL’MENI to serve?! Open late!
  • For delicious breakfast, lunch or dinner in a funky, cozy downtown space, check out Cosmos Bistro. Inventive dishes, a great happy hour and locally sourced ingredients make this a fine stop on any downtown excursion.
  • The Old Town Cafe has a regular line out the door for their delicious breakfast and lunch fare. The current ownership has been serving tasty food to Bellingham residents for nearly 25 years and here’s to hoping the trend continues. (The space has actually been a restaurant since the early 1900s and known as the Old Town Café since 1967) They feature in-house baked goods, locally sourced ingredients and a great communal setting. They also host a free Thanksgiving dinner every year!
  • Old school cocktails and hot dogs, set in a historic downtown building with space-themed decor? What’s not to love?? Orion has a good happy hour, pool tables and they’re open late!

With all of Bellingham’s deep and eclectic history, it’s no wonder they have several excellent museums and antique stores to visit. Next time you’re in the area, bone up on your local knowledge at these great stops:

  • Guarding over the downtown skyline, the Whatcom Museum and its corresponding Lightcatcher building feature wonderful exhibits of Bellingham and surrounding area histories and more. The main museum is housed in Old City Hall and is itself an important piece of Washington State history. (First site in the state to be listed on the National Register of Historic Places)
  • The very unique and innovative Mindport features fine art and hand-built interactive exhibits. Located just around the corner from the Spark Museum, it’s a great way to spend an entertaining and interactive afternoon; especially as a combo pack!
  • Get a fully-charged, up-close look at all things electrical at the Spark – Museum of Electrical Invention in the heart of downtown. Check out the Mega Zapper with its 4 million volts (AKA: Nikola Tesla’s Lightning Machine) and listen in on local KMRE 102.3 FM, the independent radio station operated out of the museum. (Or online at org)
  • Head past the iconic rocket ship installation on Holly Street and hit up any of the great antique stores in the area. (Note: The rocket ship sits in front of the now-closed Rocket Donuts. A sad loss for donut lovers everywhere.) Penny Lane Antique Mall (10,000 square feet!), Vintage 360 and Bellingham Bay Collectibles are great shops to explore while in the area.

The Arts are alive in Bellingham and there are many options for expanding your artistic horizons during your visit. Just a few of the great places to help you enjoy the scene:

  • Owned by actor Ryan Stiles, the Upfront Theatre features regular improv comedy shows as well as improv classes. Put your comedic skills to the test!
  • On the National Register of Historic Places the Mount Baker Theatre (c. 1927) used to be a vaudeville theatre, but now features a variety of Arts and entertainment. Shows include the classic Phantom of the Opera (1925 silent film version) played with a live score on their in-house Mighty Wurlitzer pipe organ, Warren Miller’s Timeless (11/9) and the 20th Annual Mt. Baker Film & Arts Festival. (11/1)
  • The new Sylvia Center for the Arts features theatre, music and dance performances as well as rehearsal and teaching space for Bellingham’s thriving Arts community.
  • Head to the Bellingham Festival of Music for beautiful classical music including orchestral premiers, string quartets, chamber music, world-class soloists and more. (July 3-24, 2020)

Soapbox
Stand on a soapbox and speak your mind! (Located across from the Farmers Market in downtown Bellingham)

Just south of Bellingham lies the endlessly charming Fairhaven Historic District. Founded by “Dirty” Dan Harris in the late 1800s and listed on the National Register of Historic Places, Fairhaven is a wonderful place to spend a long weekend – or longer. Great restaurants, shops and a gateway to scenic Chuckanut Drive make it a must-visit – and very walkable – destination any time of year.

While strolling about this quaint area, keep an eye out for one of the many murals featured on town buildings. Along with Bellingham, the Fairhaven area sports wonderful murals by artists such as Northwest favorites, Lanny Little and Henry. (Check out the largest hand-painted mural in Washington State at the Bellingham Subaru dealer by artist, Henry) I particularly love how Lanny Little painted himself into one of the murals located in the lovely Village Green, located in the center of town. Nice to be able to recognize an artist for their talent…

Fairhaven has no shortage of great restaurants, pubs, bakeries and dessert spots to check out. On your next visit, add these establishments to your list of places to visit:

  • Grab a bite from one of the visiting food trucks or bring your own to enjoy with one of the tasty locals brews at Stones Throw Brewing Co. They’re family and dog friendly and regularly feature live music.
  • For the ultimate in dog-friendly watering holes, stop by Paws for a Beer and enjoy a pint. They even kindly allow humans who might not have their dogs with them. For more info on grabbing a beer with your furry buddy, check out their dog membership (21+)
  • If you’re up for a delicious burger, hit up the eclectic Filling Station in downtown Fairhaven. Using local ingredients, including custom-made buns from local bakery, Avenue Bread they know how to rock a good burger, not to mention a tasty cocktail. (Also in the Sunnyland neighborhood of Bellingham)
  • My new friends, James and Julie from nearby Pioneer Park in Ferndale, highly recommended Fairhaven Fish & Chips in downtown Fairhaven. Located in the center of downtown and run out of an authentic British double-decker bus, they serve some pretty tasty fish-n-chips, indeed.
  • Featuring breakfast, lunch and dinner, Skylark’s Hidden Café is a great Fairhaven stop. Throw in award-winning chowder, a great happy hour menu and Jazz on Monday nights and it’s hard to ignore this cozy scene.
  • There is never a time I’m not up for fresh crepes – never! Mount Bakery Fairhaven is the place to go if you, too, heed the call of the delicious crepe. Also serving a multitude of scratch-baked goods along with a full breakfast and lunch menu. Yum! (Additional locations can be found in downtown Bellingham and the Bellingham Farmers Market)
  • Named after Fairhaven’s founder, Dirty Dan Harris’ Steakhouse in downtown Fairhaven has been serving delicious steak and local seafood for the past 44 years. (Closed Mondays. Open at 5pm, Tues – Sun) And if you’d like to further celebrate Dirty Dan, check out the annual Dirty Dan Harris Festival at the end of April.
  • The iconic Colophon Café, with entrances on 11th Street and off the Fairhaven Village Green, offers hearty soups, sandwiches, burgers and great coffee and baked goods. The building (c. 1891), with its (haunted) upstairs ballroom and 1900s hand-operated elevator remnants in downstairs dining area is a gem in and of itself. There is said to have been a speakeasy in the building during the Prohibition era. Cool!
  • Directly next door to the Colophon Café and another icon of the neighborhood, Village Books & Paper Dreams offers a wonderful selection of books, gifts and more. (Also in nearby Lynden)
  • For a nice spot of tea and a British-inspired lunch or afternoon tea, stop by Abbey Garden Tea Room in downtown Fairhaven. Located in the same space is CreativiTea where you can paint your own pottery and enjoy a lovely cup of tea. (Also in Lynden)
  • I am indeed sad about Rocket Donut’s departure from the Bellingham/Fairhaven food scene. However, the fact that ACME Ice Cream has opened their new flagship store in the old Rocket Donut Fairhaven location definitely helps to soothe my soul – and beyond! To say I am addicted to ACME Ice Cream is an (embarrassing) understatement. It is the best ice cream EVER and I’d eat it every day if I could! (Well, I certainly could, but the adult side of me vigorously argues as to whether I should…) Made with local ingredients in the nearby town of Acme, it has a dense, taffy-like consistency that is unlike any other ice cream I’ve tried. It is DELICIOUS. (Great. Now I need/want some ACME Ice Cream… Shut up, adult side!)

To add to the delicious temptations lurking around every corner in downtown Fairhaven, there are an equal number of fun shops to explore and activities to check out. A few notables from my recent visit to the downtown area:

  • My wallet and I needed to get out of Current & Furbish fairly quickly as I could’ve easily taken home quite a few wonderful items. Home décor, gourmet foods, restored furniture and more make for a lovely bit of browsing and potential home redecorating projects.
  • The same goes for Three French Hens in that I could’ve easily gotten carried away with the credit cards. Fun clothing, home décor, gift ideas and more fill the shelves of this fun shop in the heart of downtown Fairhaven.

  • They make pretty awesome bikes, but I will admit to being more entertained by their company name and logo – And the limitless opportunity for puns, memes and overall humor. The Evil (Bikes) headquarters can be found in downtown Fairhaven, just across from the ferry terminal. I wish I could afford one of their Evil bikes, but for now I’ll just have to dream of owning something Evil… I’d also like to point out the rather evil looking trees directly across the street – as well as the wild apple trees. Coincidence? But don’t worry – it’s all located just past the peace marker. Where there’s evil, good is likely hot on its heels. Or down the sidewalk…

  • Something that’s been on my bucket list for quite some time is taking the ferry from Bellingham/Fairhaven to Ketchikan, Alaska. That’s right, you can take a ferry from Washington State all the way to Dutch Harbor in the Aleutian Chain! It’s part of the quite extensive Alaska Marine Highway System. The trip to Ketchikan is 38-hours long and there are options to stay in one of the ship’s staterooms, “camp” on the deck or sleep in the solarium area. If this sounds as AMAZING to you as it does me, head to the Bellingham Cruise Terminal and hop aboard! (But best to first make a reservation.) Located across the street from Evil. (I’ll make an effort, but it’s probably going to be a while before I stop making Evil jokes…)

  • If you’d like to extend your exploration of downtown Fairhaven, check out the quaint scene at the Fairhaven Village Inn, located just across from the Village Green. During your stay, be sure to visit Galloway’s Cocktail Bar, the Art Deco cocktail bar located on the street level of the Inn.

Fairhaven Village Inn
Check out the lovely Fairhaven Village Inn and grab a classic cocktail at Galloway’s Cocktail Bar – and ice cream from Edaleen’s!

Fairhaven offers many excellent ways to celebrate and explore the area throughout the year. A few fun ways to experience what this quaint village has to offer:

  • Head to the Village Green during the summer months and enjoy the Fairhaven Outdoor Cinema. (Saturday evenings, June 20 – August 29, 2020)
  • Set in conjunction with the epic Ski to Sea relay race, the Historic Fairhaven Festival takes place in downtown Fairhaven and celebrates the town in grand fashion with an all-day street fair, live music, a beer/wine garden, local food vendors and more. (May 26th / Memorial Day weekend)
  • Stroll around the Village Green, take in the summer air, enjoy the view out to the water and savor a fine glass of wine at the annual Vino in the Village Wine Walk. Sounds like a pretty great way to spend a summer evening… (August 8th)
  • Celebrate all things holiday at the yearly Fairhaven Winterfest. Hop in one of the horse-drawn carriages and take in the lights and holiday displays. Be sure to check out the Holiday Market on November 30th in the Village Green. (Winterfest runs Nov 29th thru Dec 21st)
  • If you like learning all the hush-hush, behind-the-scenes details about a town, hit up the Good Time Girls tour company for any of their well-researched tours of Bellingham and Fairhaven. Their Sin & Gin and BellingHistory tours are quite popular and very entertaining. In October they offer a special Gore & Lore tour – don’t miss it!

Sure, I-5 is a relatively efficient way in and out of the Bellingham and Fairhaven areas. There’s even quite a bit of lovely scenery along the way. However, why take I-5 when you can cruise along one of the state’s most beautiful and scenic drives? Chuckanut Drive (AKA: SR-11, a designated Scenic Highway), running along the Whatcom County coast between Fairhaven and Skagit County is a spectacular drive and has been awing motorists since the turn of last century.

Even before it became an official (gravel) road in 1916, Chuckanut Drive has been an important fixture in the area. In conjunction with Highway 99 and later I-5, it was an integral link in joining together routes from British Columbia all the way down to San Francisco. (It was paved in 1921.) As it winds its way through the coastal Chuckanut Mountains and into the Skagit Valley, it continues to provide a beautiful and interesting route through the area. (The fall is a particularly lovely – and popular – time to take the drive!)

Chuckanut Drive
Great hiking through the Chuckanut Mountain trails near Larrabee State Park

Chuckanut Drive is brimming with amazing areas to explore and enjoy. A few beautiful spots to check out on your next Whatcom County adventure:

  • There are so many amazing hikes and strolls to be found around Chuckanut Drive and Chuckanut Mountain Park. The excellent Washington Trails Association also has a great, general guide for the area.
  • Perched on a bluff overlooking Chuckanut Bay and Teddy Bear Cove, the lovely Woodstock Farm (c. 1905) and its sprawling estate is a wonderful spot to stop and explore. Original owner of the farm, Cyrus Gates, one of the leads in creating Larrabee State Park as well as portions of Chuckanut Drive and the Mt. Baker Highway, definitely lent his scenic vision to the creation of the farm. After investigating the beautiful grounds, enjoy the great views of Lummi Island and the San Juans.

  • On the topic of Larrabee State Park, it’s just down the road from Woodstock Farms – and very big! (The southern part of the park is the Whatcom/Skagit County border) It was the first designated state park in Washington and is an excellent place to spend the day. Camping, boating and great hiking are just a few of the reasons to visit. Discover Pass
  • If you’re heading south on Chuckanut drive with a destination of Skagit County, consider adding a bonus stop in the tiny, but delicious Bow-Edison It’s a foodie paradise!

Heading back up north, towards the Canadian border, will allow us to check out the Whatcom County scene to the east of I-5. The coastal, west side of Whatcom County has plenty to offer and countless activities to keep one busy. However, when you add in the picturesque towns, winding rivers and soaring mountain scenery of Whatcom County’s east side, the ante gets considerably upped. Epic vacation plans for the win!

A short drive northeast of Bellingham on SR-539 brings us to the wonderfully quaint town of Lynden. From its serene, tree-lined Front Street to its Dutch-inspired downtown, Lynden is an excellent town to explore. Windmills, Dutch bakeries and pastoral backroads and farms make it a dream for bicycle excursions and leisurely country drives. It’s also host to one of the three border crossings in Whatcom County, known as the Aldergrove Crossing. (SR-539 becomes BC Highway 13 in Canada) So many great areas to explore are packed into this quiet swath of northeast Whatcom County. (Interesting fact: Known as America’s Raspberry Capitol, Whatcom County is responsible for growing 65% of the nation’s red raspberries and 95% of the state’s red raspberry crop. YUM! Many raspberry farms can be viewed along the Lynden area backroads.)

A great place to begin your Lynden adventures is via the downtown area. It’s a relatively small part of town, but is brimming with great restaurants, shops and more. (Note: Many businesses in the downtown area are closed on Sundays) A few places to check out during your visit to Lynden:

The Waples Mercantile Building (On the National Register of Historic Places), located in the center of downtown, is home to several great businesses. I had a delicious breakfast and great cup of coffee at Avenue Bread. The ambiance is very cool and it was a nice place to relax on a Sunday morning. (Also in Bellingham) They are connected within the building to The Inn at Lynden, a cozy boutique hotel and the stellar Village Books and Paper Dreams. (I picked up some luxurious soap from Samish Bay Soaps and a rather cool Octopus glass) Connected on the other side of Village Books is the Cheeks clothing shop. (Closed Sundays) And on the side of the building, don’t miss grabbing a pint at Overflow Taps. (Also in Bellingham) They are part of the excellent Charity Pints Program which benefits clean water and building drinking wells in Africa. (Additional Whatcom County brewers participating include Aslan Brewing, Atwood Ales, Wander Brewing, North Fork Brewery and Boundary Bay Brewery)

Just across the way from the Waples Mercantile Building are several more wonderful food and shopping options. The famous Dutch Mothers Restaurant and gift shop has been wooing diners with their scrumptious Dutch pancakes and homemade pies for years. (Closed Sundays) Not to be outdone in the area of delicious Dutch baked goods, the nearby Lynden Dutch Bakery has been serving tasty Dutch baked goods to a dedicated crowd of patrons for the past 125 years! (Closed Sundays) And in a fully dedicated tribute to the town’s Dutch heritage, The Mill by Perfectly Paired serves bistro-style lunch and dinner along with sporting a full-size Dutch windmill as part of the building.

Lynden offers many ways to celebrate the history and bounty of the area. Some of the year-round opportunities to explore Lynden include:

  • To sample the best of area farms and local artisans, head to the Farmers Market every Saturday in the center of downtown at Centennial Park. (6/1 – 9/28, 10am – 2pm)
  • Celebrate Whatcom County and Lynden’s favorite berry at the annual Northwest Raspberry Festival in July. Be sure to take home some of the delicious jewels from one of the many U-pick farms such as Haugen’s Raspberry Farm (U-pick raspberries and blueberries), Koetjes Blueberries and Kamm Creek Farm. (U-pick organic raspberries, blueberries, blackberries and currants.)
  • Learn more about the area and its Dutch connections at the Lynden Pioneer Museum on Front Street in downtown Lynden. (Closed Sundays)
  • The Northwest Washington Fair features entertainment, rodeo, adjudicated exhibits, carnival rides and more. Fun for the whole family! (Aug 17-22, 2020)
  • Bundle up, grab some hot cocoa and head down to Front Street for the annual Northwest Lighted Christmas Parade in December. (12/7/19, 6-7pm)

While you’re ambling your way through the backroads and byways of the Lynden area, keep an eye out for hidden gems along the way. Great food, wine and adventure await! Some of the fun spots to seek out:

  • As you head into Lynden on SR-539, be on the lookout for Bellewood Farms. Home of the largest apple orchard in western Washington, they feature a “farm-to-glass” distillery, a farm store and tasty breakfast and lunch in their café. During the harvest season, they feature u-pick apples, a pumpkin patch and corn maze.
  • Not far from Lynden in the Everson / Nooksack area, in between SR-9 and SR-544, are several spots worth checking out. For a delicious steak and all manner of German schnitzel, stop in at Herb Niemann’s Steak & Schnitzel House. (Since 1973) If you’re a fan of meat pies (Kristen, I’m lookin’ at YOU.), Good to Go Meat Pies is the place to go! (Also at Bellingham and Everett Farmers Markets) For a bit of wine tasting and relaxing in a beautiful locale, be sure to visit Samson Estates Winery in the Nooksack area. They feature award-winning fruit wine created from the abundance of local Nooksack berries.
  • Heading into nearby Sumas via SR-9 will bring you to the final Whatcom County border crossing into Canada. (Sumas/Huntington Crossing – SR-9 becomes Hwy 11 in Canada) While in the area, stop in at the famous Edaleen Dairy for a scoop or several of their delicious ice cream. (Also in Lynden, Ferndale, Blaine and Fairhaven/Bellingham) If you want to eat your meal before your dessert, head to nearby Bob’s Burgers & Brew for a juicy burger and a pint. (Also in Birch Bay) Work it all off by learning a little bit about the Sumas area at the Sumas Historical Society and Museum. (Monday, 10am – 1pm, Friday & Saturday, Noon – 4pm)

Traveling south on SR-9 will bring you to the junction of one of the most spectacular drives in the state, the Mount Baker Highway. (SR-542) As you head into the wilds of the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest, the road winds through gorgeous farmland as the promise of towering mountain peaks rise in the distance. Mount Baker (10,781 ft), the second most active volcano in the Cascade Range behind Mount Saint Helens, dominates the area with the spectacular Mount Shuksan (9,131 ft) guarding its flank. Whatever manner you choose to experience the area, whether by car, foot or other, it is impossible to leave without being profoundly moved by this immense beauty.

Driving east on SR-542, there are a multitude of things to see and do. The ultimate destination is often the Mount Baker ski area, but as there are so many excellent distractions, it’s easy to make a few stops along the way. Deming and nearby Glacier are the tiny towns closest to Mount Baker and are surrounded by stunning scenery and filled with many camping, hiking and outdoor opportunities. Deming is also the tribal seat of the Nooksack Tribe, who have been living in the area for thousands of years. Spending time at Mount Shuksan and Mount Baker proper is never a bad idea, but definitely allow time to stop and smell the fresh mountain air on the way up. (Pro tip: As you’re driving along the Mount Baker Highway near the Kendall area, be sure to stay on SR-542 at the round-about intersection. If not, you just might find yourself on SR-547 and heading towards Sumas and the Canadian Border. Which can come up on you very quickly… Not to say I’ve ever done such a thing.)

A few of the great distractions to enjoy as you make your way up the Mount Baker Highway:

  • If you find yourself driving towards Mt. Baker on SR-542 out of Bellingham, make a stop at Rome Grocery. They’re a great place to stock up on supplies for your adventure as well as a great place to grab a quick bite.
  • If you’re in the market for Icelandic or Shetland sheep (And who isn’t?), consider Lydia’s Flock, a sheep farm located off SR-542 around the Deming area. They offer classes, shearing, volunteer events and more. I’m particularly interested in their Wool 101
  • The North Fork Brewery and Pizzeria, located directly off SR-542 is a must-stop for tasty pizza and a pint after a hard day of hiking, skiing, taking pictures, etc. Family friendly with outdoor seating, a wedding chapel and a beer shrine! In addition to their delicious beer, they make barleywine and root beer. I’m partial to their BRP Pilsner.
  • Graham’s Restaurant and adjacent store have been greeting Mount Baker travelers for many years. The store features a small selection of groceries, gifts, camping supplies, a coffee counter and baked goods. The restaurant has a tasty menu of comfort food favorites and servers breakfast on weekends. Always a great spot to visit!
  • Located directly off SR-542 in the Deming area, Rifugio’s Country Italian Cuisine serves rustic Italian food and regularly hosts “Feast” themed events. Open Thursday thru Sunday for dinner with brunch on Saturdays and Sundays.
  • Heading closer towards the mountains, Chair 9 – Woodstone Pizza & Bar in Glacier offers a great pub and pizza menu. If you’re in need of lodging, check out their adjacent Blue T Lodge and enjoy not having to drive home after a long day of skiing or hiking.
  • While there isn’t lodging at the Mt. Baker Ski Area, there are many Local accommodations available in the Deming and Glacier areas. Find a cabin, bring along a few friends and enjoy a sublime mountain getaway in one of the most peaceful areas in the state. (And beyond!)
  • Take a break from your hike and check out some summer music jams at the Baker Blues Festival (July 31 – August 2, 2020) and the Subdued Stringband Jamboree (August 6-8, 2020) Both events take place at the Deming Log Show Fairgrounds (SR-542) near Nugents Corner and the Nooksack River.

Pro Tip: As you venture further into the mountains, make sure you’ve included the 10 Essentials in your backpack. Whether summer or winter, it is imperative to be ready for any type of off-roading, be it on foot, ski, bike or other exciting means. Weather can change quickly, water sources might be far and few between and you never know when that loose rock on the trail might have other plans for your day. Be prepared!

Not too far past the Glacier area, look for a signpost directing you to the gorgeous Nooksack Falls area. It’s a short jog off the highway and well worth the stop. The beautiful Nooksack River flows through the area and drops, via a series of stunning waterfalls, 88 feet to the canyon floor below. Be sure to check out the information kiosks telling about the former Great Excelsior Mine and old town of Excelsior. Also pay heed to the warnings about NOT climbing over the fenced areas overlooking the falls. Seriously. (Interesting fact: The falls were featured in the hunting scene of The Deer Hunter. The nearby North Cascades Highway and spectacular Diablo Lake were also included in the film.) If you’re looking to get to know the Excelsior area even better, check out the hike to Excelsior Pass. It’s a moderate hike with great views of Mt. Baker and flower-filled meadows with access to the Damfino Lakes. For bonus points, hike up further to the former fire lookout at Excelsior Peak.

Past Nooksack Falls, the highway begins to gain elevation and the switchbacks come with more frequency. I love windy, mountain roads and the Mount Baker Highway is one of the greats. I will admit, however, to feeling my heart in my stomach on a few of those switchbacks closer towards the top; especially if it’s raining or snowing. Yowsa! That said, the WSDOT does keep the road well-maintained and it’s open year-round up to the ski area.

As you get almost to the end of the road, look for the entrance to the parking area for Picture Lake. One of the most photographed locales in the state, it is an absolute must-stop. Mt. Shuksan towers alongside the area, gloriously reflected in the lake. The path next to the lake is fully accessible and great for an easy-going stroll and with little effort and the simplest of cameras, your pictures are guaranteed to be amazing. I could honestly just sit on the shore and watch the mountain all day long…

If you happen to be in the area during the summer, make a point to go all way to the end of highway at Artist Point. The mountain views are spectacular and on a clear day, it’s easy to see Canada to the north and Mount Rainier to the south. Head to the easy-going Artist Ridge Trail for breath-taking scenery and be sure to stick around for the dazzling sunsets. The portion of the highway leading to Artist Point closes for the winter, but it’s still possible to head up to the area for beautiful snowshoeing opportunities.

Just short of Artist Point, lies the consummate ski hill, Mount Baker Ski Area. They get an average annual snowfall of 701 inches and due to their somewhat remote location, the crowds are never huge. It’s possible to get fresh tracks throughout the day! If you’re not up for tackling the crazy mountain drive in the winter, the day lodge is open in summer and is a great addition to area hiking adventures. (Interesting fact: Call of the Wild (1935) with Clark Gable and Loretta Young was filmed near Mt. Baker Ski Resort and helped expand the popularity of the area.)

There are countless hiking, climbing and adventuring opportunities in the Mount Baker / Mount Shuksan area. A few to consider on your next visit:

IMPORTANT NOTE: Never hike or climb on any glaciers or permanent snow fields without the appropriate alpine climbing gear and know-how.

  • If you’re up for a challenge, check out the Heliotrope Ridge Trail off of FS Road 39. The hike offers pretty amazing views overlooking the crevassed, glacial moraine of Mount Baker. (Not good for early summer hiking) A Recreation Pass is required at the trailhead.
  • Another strenuous, but rewarding hike is the Lake Ann Trail with its great view of Mount Shuksan, Mount Baker, sub-alpine meadows and marmots! A Recreation Pass is required at the trailhead.
  • As is to be expected, there are a lot of climbing opportunities for Mount Baker and Mount Shuksan. Hit up local climbing outfits such as RMI, Alpine Ascents or the American Alpine Institute for excellent guide services, information and gear. American Alpine Institute offers snowshoeing tours as well. (Note: You will need a permit to make a summit climb.)
  • For an epic challenge, grab a few friends and enter the annual Ski to Sea relay race over Memorial Day Weekend. It’s an ambitious trek from the Mount Baker Ski Area to Bellingham Bay consisting of teams of three to eight racers, competing in seven different sports. (Cross Country Ski, Downhill Ski/Snowboard, Running, Road Bike, Canoe (2 paddlers), Cyclocross Bike, and Sea Kayak.) This is an absolute bucket-list goal of mine. Care to join me?

In order to get to the North Cascades National Park and Diablo Lake in the eastern part of Whatcom County, it is necessary to first travel through Skagit County. The mountains are beautiful, but they do occasionally add a bit of travel time and obstacle to the adventure. (It’s also possible to reach these areas from the eastern side of the state via beautiful Okanogan County. Look for the I Ate the State article coming soon!) For my most recent adventure to the area, I opted to approach via Skagit County.

For the most direct route from western Washington to the North Cascades Highway – North Cascades Loop (SR-20 – a designated Scenic Byway) hit up I-5 Exit 230 in the Burlington area. If you’re looking for a more leisurely approach, take SR-9 to get to SR-20. Any route you take to get to SR-20 will be worth it as the North Cascades Highway is truly one of the most spectacular drives in the county. (Note: The North Cascades highway is closed past Lake Diablo and west of Mazama during the winter. Check the WSDOT website for opening/closing details.)

If you happen to be coming down SR-9 (the Valley Highway) from the north, be sure to explore the areas around Acme and Wickersham. Bring your swimsuit and take a dip – or a float – in the South Fork of the Nooksack River. (River floating is a popular summer pastime in the area. Many cars were parked on the side of SR-9 near Acme and the Mosquito Lake Exit to access the river.) SR-9 and adjoining backroads are fairly quiet around the Acme and Wickersham areas and there is beautiful scenery everywhere you look. Prairie Road is particularly lovely and will eventually lead you back out to I-5 and the Bow Hill Road Exit. (Exit 236) It’s an absolute beauty of a weekend drive or ride.

It’s a fairly quiet part of the county, but there are indeed great places to visit. Some of the spots to check out on your next trip through the area:

  • The Blue Mountain Grill features a pretty spectacular view and is a popular stop for travelers through the area. They serve lunch and dinner and feature burgers, seafood and fried chicken with all the fixins’.
  • A favorite along the Valley Highway (SR-9) in Acme is the ACME Diner. Stop in and enjoy their classic diner fare and all-day breakfasts. (Closed Mondays)
  • Hop aboard the Lake Whatcom Railway and experience the past while riding in their Pullman Company cars. They’ve been in continuous operation for over 100 years! They make sightseeing stops along the way, so don’t forget your camera. They also host various events throughout the year. Located in the Wickersham area off SR-9.

A drive up the North Cascades Highway is an adventure in and of itself. The highway winds through beautiful farmland and fertile valleys, all nurtured by the mighty Skagit River. The Skagit River is the state’s second largest river (after the Columbia River) and generally follows along the highway corridor. Starting in the Canadian Cascades at Allison Pass, it flows down to the Ross Lake area, into Diablo Lake and heads out to the Puget Sound close to the La Conner area. (For spots to check out along the way in Skagit County, check out my recent I Ate the State article.)

As you make your way east on the North Cascades Highway, there are scores of places to camp, hike, fish and generally enjoy the area. Many are accessible year-round and are the perfect escape from the noise and grind of the city. An excellent, general area for all things outdoors can be found off the North Cascades Highway on the Baker Lake Road (FS Road 11) in the Baker Lake / Middle Fork Nooksack area. The region is known for good Sockeye fishing, spectacular hiking trails and winter recreation including snowmobiling, snowshoeing and cross-country skiing.

There are many campgrounds in the Baker Lake area along with excellent hiking and backpacking opportunities. Just a few of the many options to explore on your next trip:

  • Located on the west side of the lake, the Bayview South and North Campgrounds are a good jumping off point for hikes in the area. (You’ll need to bring drinking water.) Also on the west side of the lake, the Horseshoe Cove Campground features sites close to the lake as well as a swimming beach and boat launch.
  • Heading North on the west side of lake will bring you to the Boulder Creek Campground. (You’ll need to bring drinking water.) Panorama Point Campground is close by and features a paved boat launch.
  • Just past Panorama Point is the Swift Creek Campground. It’s a larger campground with spots for tents and RVs and features a large, paved boat launch and 20-slip dock. Just over from Swift Creek lies the Park Creek Campground. It’s smaller, but situated close to the creek as it flows out to the lake.
  • Continuing towards the north part of the lake will bring you to the Shannon Creek Campground. It has a small boat launch and is a stop along the way to the Shannon Ridge Trailhead which is a little further north, up the Shannon Creek and forest service roads. The trailhead a popular starting point for Mt. Shuksan climbs and backcountry camping. Backcountry permits are required for overnight stays in North Cascades National Park. (No pets allowed in park) A valid Recreation Pass is required within National Forests. (At trailhead)
  • At the end of the Baker Lake Road, park and hike in to the remote Sulphide Creek Campground via the Baker River Trail, along the Baker River. (In Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest) Old-growth forest and a huge amount of solitude await the weary hiker. A valid Recreation Pass is required within National Forests. (At trailhead)
  • On the east side of the lake, hit up the Baker Lake Trail #610 to hike to lakeside campsites such as Anderson Point and Maple Grove. This trail eventually hooks up with the Baker River Trail #606 which will take you deeper into the wilderness. A valid Recreation Pass is required within National Forests. (At trailhead) (The Baker River Trail is also accessible via the end of the Baker Lake Road)

Creek
Lovely little scenes around every corner in the North Cascades

Not far past the small area of Marblemount in Skagit County, you’ll officially enter Whatcom County and just after, the glorious North Cascades National Park. Keep your eyes peeled for the exit to the North Cascades National Park Wilderness Visitor & Information Center. There is much to be gained from even a brief stop to the area. The park celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2018, but the history and majesty of the area far surpasses the last fifty years.

It’s easy to glance out the window of your car or take in the scene as you hike along a trail, but the sheer size and content of the park would be near impossible to absorb in a lifetime – or be accessible. There are 312 glaciers in the park – more than Glacier National Park! (Sadly, the glaciers have decreased by 50% in the last 100 years.) The park is comprised of 98% wilderness and has the most bio-diversity of any other national park with the exception of Great Smokey Mountains National Park – and only by a few varieties of grass! Since there are few roads within the park, many trails and campsites are only accessible by hiking or driving on Forest Service roads outside of the park to get close to trailheads and campsites. You have to really want to explore the inner reaches of the park, but it certainly is a worthwhile and rewarding endeavor.

While at the visitor center, take the short Sterling Munro Trail from behind the building and marvel at the beautiful Picket Range in the distance. Take in the uniquely formed Chopping Block and the highest (and most awesomely named) peak in the range, MOUNT TERROR. (What could possibly go wrong?) For a great list of hikes and campsites to help you get closer to these amazing peaks, check out the NPS site.

Heading further northeast on SR-20 brings you to the tiny town of Newhalem. To this day it is a “company” town in that it is owned by Seattle City Light and populated entirely by employees of the nearby hydroelectric projects. It is, however, open to visitors and makes a great last-stop for gas and snacks before heading over the passes to eastern Washington. Be sure to stop in at the Skagit General Store, the Skagit Information Center and take a stroll around the town to visit the “Old No. 6” steam engine and the interesting art installations around the park areas.

It is also possible to tour the Gorge Powerhouse with the Skagit Tours outfit. Beginning in the 1920s, Seattle City Light originally gave tours around the area, including Diablo Lake and Ross Dams which included their famous Dam Good Chicken Dinner and tour of Ladder Creek Falls at night. (Offered to this day!) The tours were meant to drum up interest in the hydroelectric projects and were a popular tourist and investor attraction – and the guests got to take home the leftover pies! Stop in Newhalem and learn about the history of the area and the history of the Seattle City Light’s tenure in the North Cascades in a very unique way.

In recent decades, the Newhalem area has attracted more than hydroelectric dreams and has served as the backdrop in a few notable artistic endeavors. For you 80s film nerds (me), part of War Games was filmed in an old Newhalem gravel quarry. (Specifically, the Cheyenne Mountain Complex scene.) Additionally, Tobias Wolff, author of This Boy’s Life (The film version starred Robert De Niro, Ellen Barkin and Leonardo DiCaprio) lived in Newhalem and nearby Concrete and based the book off of his life there. (Check out my I Ate the State Skagit County article for more info about Concrete and surrounding areas)

There are many great locales about which to hike, camp and explore in the areas surrounding Newhalem. For great access to the Skagit River and cool interpretive trails, check out the nearby Newhalem Creek Campground. If you’re up for fishing and hiking in a glorious location, check into the Gorge Lake Campground and enjoy. (Boat launch, no potable water) While in the area, hit up the nearby Stetattle Creek or Sourdough Mountain trails for a beautiful – and challenging – hike. An absolute must for any North Cascades visit is a stop at Gorge Lake Overlook/Gorge Creek and interpretive trail. The waterfalls truly cannot be represented by photo. You need to stand on the bridge overlooking the falls and experience the thrill of gorge and the thundering water. I love heights and they rarely get me, but WOW – that’s quite a drop!

Wrapping up our adventures in Whatcom County brings us to, in my humble opinion, one of the most spectacular areas in the country, Diablo Lake and the Ross Lake National Recreation Area. The turquoise waters are mesmerizing and the towering mountains surrounding the reservoir lakes are beyond compare. I would have no problem setting up permanent camp in the area. No problem at all…

The area is chock-full of amazing trails and panoramic views, but if you’re not in the mood for a bracing hike, stop in at the North Cascades Institute for beautiful views of the area. Situated directly on Diablo Lake, they not only offer classes on a variety of nature-friendly topics and more, they also have lodging and regularly host events. Additionally, they are the base for the exceptionally entertaining Diablo Lake Dam Tour and pick-up point for the Diablo Lake Ferry which carries passengers to the nearby Ross Lake Resort.

The Diablo Lake Dam Tour is absolutely worthwhile and a great way to spend an afternoon. I recently went with my frequent adventure buddy, Beth and her entire family and we had an excellent time. (Shout out to Mr. Skoczen for organizing everything!) The tour guide was well-informed and added an entertaining narrative to the tour. We learned about the history and geology of the area as well as early Seattle City Light superintendent, J.D. Ross’ contributions. He was largely responsible for bringing interest and investment to the area through his inventive tours and events. (Dam Good Chicken Dinner!) He even brought exotic animals to the lake as an incentive to visit. The island he named Monkey Island fittingly housed monkeys from Woodland Park Zoo and neighboring Deer Island housed white Asiatic deer. It’s said a few of deer escaped the island and ended up breeding with local deer and some of the descendants can still be spotted today.

Cruising around the lake was a fine way to learn about the area’s environment. From the amazing views of towering Colonial Peak and Pyramid Peak and a close-up look into the stunningly turquoise water, the 3-hour tour was entirely enjoyable. We learned the color of the lake is due in part to particles of mica in the glacial “rock flour” and minerals refracting light and bouncing it back. There are 52 area glaciers feeding into the Thunder Arm portion of the lake and 25% of the lake in general is from glacial melt. It was amazing to see the hidden waterfalls tumbling into the lake as we leisurely made our way towards the Ross Dam. The rocky shorelines and inlets of the lake, which can only be reached by small boat, were entirely intriguing and I hope to return via kayak someday.

Included in the cruise, along with a tasty lunch at the North Cascades Institute, is a tour of the Ross Dam and its inner-workings. (c. 1949) It was interesting to learn the distinct waffle-pattern of the dam was originally meant to be filled in and the dam was planned to be 125 feet higher. However, the discovery of 800 year-old cedar trees in the area halted the plans in 1968. (At the same time the area was becoming a National Park) The continuing work would’ve flooded an additional 8,000 acres and drastically altered the makeup and historical bounty of the land. The current 540-foot structure with its giant waffle-squares will just have to do…

For a nice hike down to the Ross Dam area, check out the Ross Dam Trail which is just under 2 miles down to the dam and back. This trail is often used as a starter to the much longer Big Beaver Trail. (Both trails can be accessed from the Ross Lake Trail head parking off of SR-20 near milepost 134.)

There are many places to hike, camp and explore in the Diablo Lake region. The Thunder Arm section of the lake is particularly nice for camping and there are several great hikes in the area. (SR-20 crosses over the Thunder Arm portion of Diablo Lake.) Thunder Point Campground as well as several other campsites on both Diablo and Ross Lake offers boat-in camping. Nearby Colonial Creek South campground also has a vehicle-accessible boat launch and a large campsite layout. Check out the NPS site for boating and fishing regulations for the area. (Note: Boat-in camping requires a backcountry permit.)

A few of the many amazing hikes and panoramic views to experience in the area:

  • The Thunder Knob Trailhead is an easy-going trail with great views of Diablo Lake and surrounding peaks. Perfect for a jaunt with the kids or a picnic lunch with a view.
  • Head to the Thunder Creek Trailhead for a great day hike, or continue on to Thunder Campground or Neve Campground for a longer adventure. The Fourth of July campground and nearby Fourth of July Pass hike are also excellent. (Note: Backcountry permits are required for camping)
  • A nice day-hike heading out of the North Cascades Institute and Sourdough Mountain trail is the Diablo Lake Trail. Spectacular views of the dams, lake and surrounding peaks will be your reward.
  • For the ultimate in low-key exploration, stop in at the Diablo Lake Vista Point on SR-20 at mile marker 132. The views are extraordinary and there are several interpretive signs describing the area and its history.

As part of the vast Skagit River, Gorge Lake, Diablo Lake and Ross Lake all combine to form the Ross Lake National Recreation Area; an outdoor enthusiast’s paradise. The largest of the three reservoirs, Ross Lake is an impressive 23 miles long with its northern section located in Canada. (The only way to drive in to Ross Lake is by gravel road on the Canadian side, via Hope, B.C.) It is dotted with excellent camping opportunities and beautiful hikes. It would be easy to continually return to the area and not exhaust the prospect of discovery.

One of the great ways to experience the area is at the very unique Ross Lake Resort. Built entirely on floating log booms, it is only reachable by boat or foot. You can arrange for water taxis and truck portage from nearby trailheads or take the Diablo Lake Ferry from the North Cascades Institute – and then the resort truck picks you up. (Note: The Diablo Lake Ferry is cash only and the water taxis must be reserved and paid for in advance.) Make sure plan in advance and bring supplies as there are no amenities, not store and no cell service at the resort. Total, blissful isolation… Yeeeaaaahhhh.

In addition to Ross Lake Resort, there are many excellent campgrounds such as the boat-in Green Point Campground, Roland Point Campground, Cougar Island Campground and more. For an interesting hike, take the boat transport from Ross Lake Resort to the Desolation Peak trailhead. Head up to the Desolation Peak Lookout and take in the view of nearby Hozomeen Mountain. While you’re there, pay tribute to the great Jack Kerouac and the time he spent as a fire lookout in the area. His novels The Dharma Bums, Lonesome Traveler (“Alone on a Mountaintop”) and Desolation Angels reference that period of his adventures. (Interesting fact: Hozomeen Chert is a type of flint rock found exclusively in the North Cascades areas of Washington and British Columbia. It means “sharp, like a knife” and was used to make tools for thousands of years by the area’s indigenous peoples.) Another trail close to Desolation Peak and Hozomeen Lake – and currently on my hiking bucket list – is the 31-mile East Bank Trail which goes almost to Canada. SOON! (Note: Permits are required for all backcountry camping.)

Alas, now it is time to leave one of my most favorite areas in the state. I love all of Whatcom County, but ending with the North Cascades just seems appropriate. The county offers a little bit of everything and it would be a surprise if anyone were able to exhaust its possibilities; especially in the North Cascades. (But what an amazing endeavor to try and undertake!) Delicious food, excellent breweries, deep histories and beauty beyond compare create a truly spectacular adventure, any time of year. Even if you have to drive a little longer from eastern Washington in the winter months, I guarantee it will be worth it. Eat the state! Eat Whatcom County!

Annnnnd… Scene.

Until next time!

For tunes on your next Whatcom County trip, check out my playlist on SPOTIFY

  • O-o-h Child – Nina Simone (from Here Comes the Sun)
  • Here We Go – Jon Brion (from Punch-Drunk Love (Music from the Motion Picture Soundtrack)
  • These Days – Jackson Browne (from For Everyman)
  • Midnight in Harlem – Tedeschi Trucks Band (from Revelator)
  • Bullet Train – Stacey Kent (from I Know I Dream: The Orchestral Sessions (Deluxe Version))
  • Travels – Pat Metheny Trio (from Trio 99-00)
  • Mah Na Mah Na – Sesame Street (from Sesame Street All-Time Favorites 1)
  • Down I-5 – Neko Case, k.d. lang, Laura Veirs (from case/lang/veirs)
  • Cast Your Fate to the Wind – Earl Klugh (from Hand Picked)
  • Captain Bacardi – Harry Allen (from Something About Jobim)
  • Our House – Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young (from Déjà Vu)
  • Don’t Give Up – Feist, Timber Timbre (from And I’ll Scratch Yours)
  • Mining for Gold – Cowboy Junkies (from The Trinity Sessions)
  • I Think It’s Gonna Rain Today – Dusty Springfield (from Dusty…Definitely)
  • Back in Time – Val Gardena, Chris Botti (from Back in Time)
  • As – Becca Stevens, Jacob Collier (from Regina)
  • Across the Great Divide – Kate Wolf (from Close to You)
  • You’re My Favorite Waste of Time – Marshall Crenshaw & The Handsome, Ruthless and Stupid Band (from This Is Easy: The Best of Marshall Crenshaw)
  • Buckets of Rain – Live – Neko Case (from Live from Austin, TX)
  • 4 A.M. – Herbie Hancock (from Hands)
  • Perhaps, Perhaps, Perhaps – Halie Loren (from They Oughta Write A Song)
  • Samba de Orfeu – Cal Tjader (from Soul Sauce)

Sleepy Princesses
Human, that was a long article! Leia and I are exhausted

More I Ate the State adventures!

 

I Ate the State – Special Edition: Victoria B.C.

Welcome to Canada, our lovely neighbor to the north. Sweeping mountain ranges, rugged coastlines, raw wilderness and a lot of snow make Canada a veritable wonderland of adventure. Living in Washington, I feel incredibly lucky to be just a quick drive away from the border and have taken advantage of this convenience many times over the years. One of North America’s premier cosmopolitan cities, Vancouver B.C. is but a *two-hour drive from Seattle and one of the most amazing places to ski in the world, Whistler-Blackcomb, is a couple of hours beyond Vancouver. (*Depending on border waits) As neighbors, we have so much in common and so many similarities to keep us close. However, whenever I cross the border and the traffic signs suddenly go metric – or I pull into the gas station and the prices are by liter (or litre, in Canada) – I feel as if I’ve been magically transported to the other side of the world.

Canada is a powerhouse all on its own – and a sprawling one, at that. It is the second largest country in the world by total area (land and water) and the fourth largest country in the world by land alone. I will never forget the first time I drove past Vancouver B.C. towards Whistler. Well-accustomed to the lofty mountain ranges and open spaces of Washington, I was still not prepared for the epic majesty of the Coast Mountains and the spectacular Sea-to-Sky Highway (BC Highway 99) which guides you closely along Pacific Ocean inlets and into the vast wilds of the Canadian wilderness. I was simply put, slack-jawed and amazed. The first time I saw the monolithic face of The Stawamus Chief (second-largest granite monolith in the world) or the soaring panorama of endless peaks from atop Blackcomb are visions which shall live forever glorious in my mind’s eye.

Blackcomb
Endless mountain peaks as seen from the top of Blackcomb, above Whistler Village

For this particular Canadian adventure, we kept it closer to the shoreline and fairly close to home. My Scotophile friends, Kristen, Tori and I were in need of whisky, bagpipes and kilts – and maybe a bit of haggis and the tossing of heavy objects. In short, we wanted to find a good Highland games event to attend. There are several great Highland games during the summer in Washington State, but given Canada’s close ties to England, Ireland and Scotland, there are many to be found in Canada as well. Since Victoria, B.C. is just a quick ferry ride away and they’ve been hosting a Highland games for the past 156 years, we figured it would be a great spot to fulfill all of our Scottish dreams. (And my pal Kristen and I are still financially recovering from our recent adventures to the actual Highlands of Scotland)

Combine the welcoming, good nature of Canada with the beautiful wilds of the Pacific Northwest and the pomp and grandeur of Britain and you come close to concocting the unique setting that is Victoria, B.C.  Situated on the southern tip of Vancouver Island and named for Queen Victoria, Victoria is not only an amazing place to visit, it is also the capital of the province of British Columbia. Many important goings-on take place in this quaint city along with the regular flow of tourism.

Parliament
The stately front of the British Columbia Parliament Building in downtown Victoria B.C.

As it is an island, there will be some sort of boat or plane involved in your trek to the area. We hopped the Black Ball Ferry Line (MV Coho) out of Port Angeles in Clallam County and sailed into Victoria’s Inner Harbour. To get to the ferry from the Seattle area, we took the Edmonds to Kingston ferry and headed to Port Angeles via the Hood Canal Bridge. There are several other ways to get to Victoria, but an important thing to note for any route into Canada is the need for a valid passport, passport card, Enhanced Washington State driver’s license/ID or NEXUS card.

Additional routes to Victoria include:

  • Head to the Waterfront in downtown Seattle and sail to Victoria via the passenger-only Victoria Clipper. The journey is a little under three hours and it’s likely you’ll see marine life along the way. They also offer a bevy of hotel, car and sightseeing package deals which are very worth checking out. On a recent trip, just as we were getting close to the Victoria harbor, a pod of orcas was swimming not too far off the port side. To add to the majesty, there was a rainbow perfectly situated over the harbor as we pulled into dock. WOW!
  • If you’re up for a gorgeous bird’s-eye view of the Puget Sound, hop aboard a seaplane flight with Kenmore Air. Many friends have made the journey, but it is still on my travel bucket-list. SOON!
  • If you’re coming from mainland B.C., head through Vancouver and cross to Victoria on the Tsawwassen – Swartz Bay (The ferry accommodates both foot passengers and vehicles) The crossing time to Swartz Bay is 1 hour and 35 minutes.
  • You can also utilize the Washington State Ferry out of Anacortes in Skagit County. (The ferry accommodates both foot passengers and vehicles) They offer a 3-hour cruise to Sidney B.C. which is a 20-minute drive outside of Victoria. (Pro Tip: If you are driving, reservations are strongly recommended.)

In order to make the most of our few days in Victoria, we had made reservations for the first sailing out of Port Angeles. The morning was crisp and the water smooth; the makings of a beautiful journey! Once aboard, we got the lay of the vintage ship and staked out a few seats with a view out over the bow. (The MV Coho has been in operation since 1959 and they’ve largely kept the vintage décor.) Since it was early and I’d only gotten a few hours of sleep, caffeine was high on the list of things to do. We found our way to the cafeteria, which is adjacent to the tiny, but well-stocked gift shop, and loaded up on breakfast goodies and strong coffee.  There’s something great to be said about warming your hands with a steaming cup of coffee while looking out over the bow of a ship.  Ahhhh….

After fully perusing the ship and refueling with caffeine, we hit up the on-board Tour Desk to find out about special deals for various tours in the Victoria area. It’s definitely worth checking out and not only will you save a few dollars, but you’ll be able to skip the sometimes long ticket lines at the given attraction. We opted for tickets to Butchart Gardens, the Butterfly Gardens and the Royal B.C. Museum. We were all set for our first two days of touring and we hadn’t even docked yet!

As we sailed into Victoria’s Inner Harbour, we were met with the beautiful skyline of downtown Victoria. The vibrant Causeway Marina, the glorious Parliament Building and the stunning Empress Hotel were all there to greet us. The scene was bustling with boats coming and going, tourists renting scooters and tour buses shuttling visitors off to neighboring attractions. (There are many bus tours available through the MV Coho and Victoria Clipper tour desks) The area near the stately Steamship Grill & Bar (the old Heritage Steamship Terminal building, c. 1924) is a great pick-up/drop-off point with many excursions taking off from the general vicinity. Not too far from the Inner Harbour, especially if you happen to be entering the area via cruise ship, is Fisherman’s Wharf. Colorful float homes, restaurants, shops, live music and more make this another great waterfront area to explore.

As we’d arrived fairly early on a Thursday morning, we had time to fit in some of the more popular tourist destinations. Since we were only visiting for a few days and it was the very busy Victoria Day 3-day weekend, we wanted to get ahead of the crowds. (Victoria Day celebrates Queen Victoria’s birthday and is the unofficial start of summer in Canada. It falls on the last Monday in May, preceding the 25th.)

After switching my GPS over to accommodate the metric system and Canadian byways, we struck out towards the spectacular Butchart Gardens, located about 30 minutes outside of Victoria. It was a grey morning and threatening rain, but we maintained our hope for things to clear up. That said, we’re from the Pacific Northwest and are typically prepared for any type of weather. Most of the time…

Butchart Gardens
Hello there, Butchart Gardens!

To say that the Butchart Gardens are a marvel in horticultural design would be an absurd understatement. They are an amazing display of design, cultivation, whimsy, passion and vision. Originally masterminded by Jennie Butchart beginning in the early 1900s, utilizing the old limestone quarry in her backyard, it has grown (literally) into an absolute national treasure. After being gifted The Gardens in 1939, Jennie’s grandson, Ian Ross has continued to enhance and expand the garden experience into what greets modern-day visitors.

Once we’d gotten past our initial ooo’s and ahhh’s, we formed a strategy to help us both enjoy and see all of the grounds during our brief stay. There is so much to take in and so many garden themes and landscapes to enjoy – we didn’t want to miss anything! As we wound around beautifully manicured trails and flower-filled alcoves, we popped out at the fantastical view overlooking the famous Sunken Gardens. Words can’t fully express the breathtakingly beautiful scene, so please enjoy some pictures!

To be honest, I would’ve probably been fine having only seen the Sunken Gardens. My mind was swimming in a glorious flower explosion and I couldn’t imagine anything could compare. However, since I knew, based on long-ago visits, the rest of the grounds absolutely could compare, off we went to the next amazing scene. (I do wish we could’ve been there on a summer Saturday night to see the excellent fireworks show from the Sunken Gardens, but that will have to wait for another visit.)

Over the course of the next couple of hours, we visited Italy, Japan, the Mediterranean and England, not to mention the beauty of the native Pacific Northwest landscape which brings it all together. It seemed around each corner was a new, mind-boggling panorama to leave us speechless. Again, since words fail me when attempting to fully describe the beauty, here are a few more pictures!

After all of our gallivanting around the flowers, it’s fair to say we’d become a little peckish. Since there are several dining spots on the garden grounds, it wasn’t hard to find something to fulfill our needs. We’d considered afternoon tea at The Dining Room, but since it’s a more leisurely affair, we opted for a less formal and more expedited lunch at the Blue Poppy Restaurant. It was just what we needed and soon enough, we were back to exploring the grounds and finishing it off with a stop into their lovely gift shop. (Because of course we did! Several dainty tea cups were chanting my name and I’d be a monster to not heed their call…) There are also several quick snack spots dotted around grounds for on-the-go occasions. Coffee and ice cream accompaniments for your flower viewing pleasure!

After getting our fill of flowers and teacups, we drove back up the road a few miles to get our fill of butterflies and wine. (As one does…) Since Kristen and Tori were more excited about the Butterfly Gardens and I was more excited about doing some wine tasting, we decided to divide and conquer. Conveniently, since the beautiful vineyards of Church & State Wines were basically next door to the Butterfly Gardens, it all worked out quite nicely. I hear-tell Kristen and Tori very much enjoyed communing with the butterflies. I, too, enjoyed my communing…

Church & State Wine sits overlooking their vineyard and rolling grounds. The main tasting room and restaurant is spacious and there is an outdoor, covered seating area with a great view of the vineyards. Since it was a Thursday afternoon, they weren’t super crowded and I easily found a seat at the tasting bar. Upon learning more about their wine from the well-informed Sommelier, I sampled a few and enjoyed a lovely locally-sourced cheese selection alongside. I very much enjoyed their Trebella and Viognier and opted to bring home a couple bottles of the Trebella. (One of which actually made it home – We enjoyed one that evening at our Airbnb) I guess I’ll have to return to pick up a few more bottles. Oh no!!

Located a few minutes away from Church and State Wines is De Vine Wines & Spirits. They’re not only a winery and vineyard, but also a distillery! I was hoping to visit on this trip, but the afternoon had gotten away from us and it was time to locate our Airbnb. No worries – I’ll be back soon!

After we pulled ourselves away from the butterflies and viognier (sounds like a Hallmark movie), we plotted our course to the Airbnb. It turned out to be the lower-half of a cute home in a Victoria suburb with a private entrance in the back. Sweet! The hosts were a very kind family who had just begun to open their home to Airbnb guests. If you have a car, staying at an Airbnb a little outside of town can save a good chunk of change. We were about 20-minutes away from downtown Victoria and the drive into town was main thoroughfare most of the way. Additionally, we were more centrally located for visiting the surrounding towns. Win-win!

Once we’d settled in at the Airbnb, we took a little bit of time to relax and recharge for a night on the town. (But not too late a night as I’d been up and driving since 4am. We were all a bit tired, suffice to say.) Since we were in town for the Highland games, we decided to look for something along the lines of Shepherd’s Pie and Guinness Stew for dinner… Yes, please! And if I could find a place with a good Scotch egg, all the better!

Enter Irish Times, a traditional Irish pub in the heart of downtown Victoria. Both Kristen and I had been there before and knew they could fulfill at least two of our culinary needs. But did they win the trifecta with an entry of the Scotch egg? Why, YES – yes, they did! If you’ve never had a Scotch egg and you happen to see it on a menu – order it! It’s a soft-boiled egg rolled in crumbled sausage, breaded and fried. How can you go wrong?? Ohhh, delicious Scotch egg, how I love thee so… The only thing I found vaguely off about our Irish Times experience was their inclusion of ice in the cider pints. Why?? I’ve seen it a couple of other times on past Victoria visits. I need to get to the bottom of these icy cider shenanigans…

After our delicious dinner, we were completely full and positively spent. We didn’t have much left to give, but we figured it best to at least walk off a few of the calories we’d just consumed. (Hello there, Scotch egg…) We hit up the fantastic Munro’s Books and found a few great books and generally wandered around the area for a little while. We didn’t have it in us to make it over to nearby Russell Books, but that’s also a great spot for the bookworm. Next time!

If you’re like us and always on the hunt for good pub food and a well-pulled pint, Victoria has so much to offer. It’s like walking down a street in London or Edinburgh – great pubs everywhere! A few of the places we didn’t get to on this visit, but have enjoyed on past stays:

  • The Churchill, located in the downtown area, hosts a modern pub menu and a rather large taps list. Cozy, low-key atmosphere and ‘lots of good beer – Sounds good!
  • The Sticky Wicket is located in downtown and features a modern pub menu, a good drink selection, a games room and hotel lodging.
  • Garrick’s Head Pub has been serving hungry and thirsty Canadians since 1867. They serve classics like shepherd’s pie and bangers and mash, but they also feature a more modern side with nods to Pacific Northwest favorites and seafood. They also have a pretty impressive taps selection.
  • Whether it’s poutine, fish & chips or perhaps a duck burger, Swan’s Brewery & Pub has you covered. They also feature an onsite brewery, a liquor store and a hotel. All the things!
  • Spinnakers is Canada’s oldest craft brewpub and a great place to relax out of the downtown hub. They’re located across the Johnson Street Bridge, past Chinatown and also feature guest house lodging. And they have a tea-infused beer – so terribly British!
  • If you happen to be heading back from Butchart Gardens, Todd Creek Craft Cider is a lovely cidery located not too far off of Highway 17.
  • Should you want to venture further north on Vancouver Island, Merridale Cidery & Distillery is about a 45-minute drive out of town. Located in the tiny town of Cobble Hill, they feature cider, spirits and a restaurant and if you get too tired to drive back to Victoria, they have yurts! Keep an eye out for their new location coming to the Victoria Dockside area.

And for a few great festival and tour options to compliment your pub quests:

  • Great Canadian Beer Festival – Check out Canada’s oldest/longest running Brewfest! Happening every Labour Day (First Monday in September in Canada) 90+ craft breweries, cideries and food trucks. Yes, please!
  • West Coast Brewery Tours offers 3-hour tours of many of the local breweries. (Brewery tour lists often changes from day to day – collect them all!) They also offer tours of local distilleries, wineries cideries and food options. What a great way to spend the afternoon!
  • Canadian Craft Tours offer fabulous food, wine, beer, distillery tours and more! Operating out of both British Columbia and Alberta, they cover a lot of amazing territory and delicious treats.

I’m fairly certain none of us had any issues with insomnia that night. After we made it back to the Airbnb, we all promptly retired to our rooms and if Kristen and Tori were anything like me, they were out within minutes of hitting the pillow. Even though we were on vacation, we’d planned a pretty packed itinerary and needed to get up early the next day to fit it all in. There are so many amazing things to see and do in Victoria! Dreams of morning coffee and afternoon tea filled my head as I drifted off to a well-earned sleep…

The next morning came much earlier than felt reasonable, but our itinerary was raring to go. We’d planned to get in some early morning hiking outside of town and what better way to fuel our morning adventure than with some Canadian morning fuel. Enter the Canadian breakfast of champions, Tim Hortons! (Dear Tim Hortons, Please open stores on the US west coast. Thank you! Your Pal, Dayna)

Donuts, great coffee, breakfast sandwiches, donuts, tea, pastries, donuts, donuts, DONUTS!! They’re now also serving delicious Cold Stone Creamery ice cream. You can’t go wrong at Tim Horton’s. I stop at the Squamish location on every Whistler trip and pretty much any other time I see one. That morning, we all enjoyed tasty breakfast sandwiches and I’m fairly certain a few donuts were also involved. Did I mention they have great donuts?

Tim Hortons
Dear Tim Hortons, I love you. Sincerely, Dayna.

With bellies full of coffee and donuts, we made our way north on Highway 17 towards Island View Beach Regional Park. Only 20 minutes out of town, it’s a great place to stroll along the beach and take in the views of Haro Strait, James Island and our own San Juan Island and Mt. Baker. It was a somewhat hazy morning, but things were starting to clear a little as we walked along the water and enjoyed the scene. The park also offers RV and tent camping should you want to get closer to nature and still be close to the city. It was a lovely way to work off a few of those donut calories…

I’d also hoped to visit Coles Bay Regional Park that morning as it’s only about a 20-minute drive from Island View Beach and affords a great view of the water on the Saanich Inlet side of the peninsula. As it’s also located on Inverness Road, I thought it seemed rather appropriate given the purpose of our Victoria visit! But alas, we realized we’d have to cut a few things off the itinerary in order to make it to the places for which we’d already purchased tickets. (The small drawback to purchasing in advance – you need to actually make it to the places to get your money’s worth. Heh.)

As Vancouver Island is a wonderland of outdoor opportunities, I still have many places on my bucket list left to visit. Here are but a few of the spots I’m hoping to soon check off my list:

  • The West Coast Trail is at the top of my ‘Canadian Hikes’ bucket list. It’s an epic 47-mile coastal trail used by the First Nations for hundreds of years before any explorers arrived. From their website: Hikers climb more than 100 ladders with a heavy pack, trudge through deep mud, wade through mountain-fed rivers in fast-flowing hip-deep waters, and push through whatever weather the wild West Coast delivers — often driving wind and rain. YES!! I’m IN!!! (Note: A reservation is needed to make this trek.)
  • Check out Jordan Falls Regional Park for beautiful trails through cedar-filled rainforest. The trails lead down to beaches along the Strait of Juan de Fuca with views of the Olympic Peninsula. Don’t miss the gorgeous Sandcut Beach Waterfalls which fall directly onto the pebbled beach. Camping available.
  • Goldstream Provincial Park is located close to Victoria, but offers all the deep-forest features. BIG trees, hiking trails, waterfalls and camping – All just a 30-minute drive from downtown!
  • The Coast Trail and Aylard Farm area offers both an epic weekend backpacking adventure along with accessible picnic areas for daytrip relaxing. Great views of the Strait of Juan de Fuca, including Coast Salish First Nation ancient Petroglyphs found at Alldridge Point.
  • The Juan de Fuca Provincial Trail is yet another epic Vancouver Island trail. Roughly 27-miles along the west coast of the island, it provides great shoreline access and stunning views. China Beach and Mystic Beach are two of the areas I’m really looking forward to checking out.
  • One part of Vancouver Island I’m very excited to investigate is the Carmanah Walbran Provincial Park and Central Walbran Valley. Beautiful rainforest and some of the world’s largest spruce trees make it one of the more stunning spots on the island – and the grandest, old-growth rainforest in Canada. Also in the area is the Gonzales Hill Observatory at Walbran Park. A perfect spot to check out the night skies.
  • For beautiful rainforest trails close to town, head to Francis King Regional Park. The Centennial Trail basically circles around the park and hooks up with the High Ridge Trail. It begins at the Nature Centre, which is open on weekends until 4pm.

Beautiful shrubbery
Beautiful shrubbery of Vancouver Island

Since we’d worked off a bit of our Tim Horton’s donut feast, it seemed reasonable to consider where we’d be eating lunch; Or at least some sort of tasty snack and maybe a pint of… Cider! Since I’d put nearby Sea Cider on my list of hopefuls for the trip, we struck out to see what kind of sustenance they could provide.

Open daily from 11am to 4pm, Sea Cider, located in the Saanichton community (situated on the Sannich Peninsula), is a quick 25-minute drive from downtown Victoria. The tasting room offers both indoor and outdoor deck seating and is a lovely place to spend a sunny afternoon. They offer tasty small plates as complement to their delicious ciders and I was particularly impressed with their Rum Runner cider. (Of which I’ve been hoarding at home. One of these days I’m going to give in… Or return for more!)

Other spots in the Saanichton and North Saanich area for tasty food and beverage:

  • On the way to Sea Cider, Victoria Caledonian Distillery and Twa Dogs Brewery offers all the best in beer AND whisky! Run by native Scotsman, Graeme Macaloney, he brings a wee bit of the tasty Highlands to Victoria. Slàinte mhath! (Open daily. Check website for hours.)
  • Symphony Vineyard, located in the Saanichton area, features delicious wine in a beautiful setting. (Open Saturdays and Sundays from 11am – 5pm.)
  • Located in North Saanich on the Saanich Peninsula, about 16 miles north of Victoria, Muse Winery / Deep Cove Winery offers delicious boutique wines in a beautiful setting. (Open Friday thru Sunday, 12-5pm)
  • Also located in North Saanich, the Roost Bistro & Farm Bakery has a bit of all things good. Great wine, a tasty bistro menu, a farm-style bakery and beautiful grounds. Additionally, they offer several cool tours around the grounds. (Open daily. Check out the website for hours.)

After enjoying our reasonable fill of delicious cider, we were ready to take on some hard-core, downtown Victoria sightseeing. As we’d already purchased tickets for the Royal B.C. Museum, it was first on our list. Along with their stellar, permanent collections, the museum was featuring an exhibit of ancient Mayan artifacts and we were excited to check it out.

I’ve been to the Royal B.C. in the past and I’ve always been impressed with their exhibits. This visit was no exception and the range of the Mayan exhibit was well-curated and fascinating. I particularly love their permanent Indigenous Peoples and Modern History exhibits. They feature full-scale exhibit areas where one is free to walk amongst the artifacts and displays. It’s very easy to get lost in the feeling of the era when visiting the museum and I highly recommend it to anyone visiting the area.

Located just across the street from the museum is the majestic Parliament Building. (c. 1897) It’s impossible to miss and it regally dominates that end of downtown and the Inner Harbour. It’s regularly in use during the week for official goings-on of the British Columbia parliament, but is also open for public tours. Additionally, they offer breakfast and lunch in the Parliamentary Dining Room. (Open Monday thru Friday, 11am – 1pm – when Legislature is not in session.) If you happen to be in the area at dusk, it is quite a sight to see the outlining lights of the Parliament building turn on. It’s a beautiful scene and not to be missed. (Note: As it is a government building, official ID such as passports are required for security checks upon entrance.)

Just kitty-corner to the Parliament Building sits another icon of the downtown Victoria skyline, the ever-grand, Empress Hotel. (c. 1908) It is truly one of my favorite spots in Victoria and while on the more expensive side, well worth visiting for at least one of your Victoria stays. If anything, book a spot for one of famous, daily high-tea services. Befitting the opulence and grandeur of The Empress, the high tea is an extravagant affair to make Queen Victoria proud. Another alternative to actually staying at The Empress is to visit one of their dining rooms. On one of my last visits, I enjoyed an excellent dinner in the Q at The Empress dining room. (Pro tip: It’s possible to get some fairly decent lodging/travel packages for The Empress via the Victoria Clipper.)

Since we’d done a fair share of walking and perusing, our Sea Cider affair was close to wearing off. One of the areas we really wanted to visit was the famous Fan Tan Alley, located in Chinatown. As the shops in Fan Tan Alley close between 5pm and 6pm, we needed to get moving. There are also several great restaurants in the area, so it just seemed to make sense to head in that direction.

Fan Tan Alley, the narrowest commercial street in North America, is a quirky and mysterious marvel. Once home to gambling parlors and opium dens in the late 1800s, it has gone through several stages of growth and decline over the years. It is now restored, minus the gambling and opium, and is on Canada’s National Historic Register. It hosts an eclectic collection of shops and services and is well worth a visit. It truly did remind me of exploring the winding alleyways and hidden nooks and crannies of Beijing and Shanghai. On your next Victoria visit, be sure to check out Kid Sister Ice Cream for delicious treats and Saltspring Soapworks for some very luxurious soaps and bath products. (I love their Rosemary Mint shampoo!)

Exiting out of the alley onto Fisgard Street brings you into the heart of Victoria’s historic Chinatown district. The oldest of its kind in Canada, there are a lot of stories packed into its establishments. Restaurants, shops, grocers, galleries and even a Buddhist Temple are just a few of the places you’ll find tucked into this small, but vibrant part of town.

There were a few restaurants that caught our eye, but we opted to grab dinner at the aptly-named, Fan Tan Café. (Closed Wednesdays) Classic Chinese-Canadian favorites in a cozy, late-night friendly café and bar. We were all very happy with our orders and leisurely washed everything down with well-steeped pots of tea and quirky drinks featuring grenadine. While we were there during the respectable, early-dinner hours, I could easily imagine enjoying some late-night Beef Chow Funn and a grenadine-laced Tequila Sunrise…

Since we’d gotten up fairly early and had packed in quite a bit of action into our day, we were ready to head back towards the Airbnb. Along the way to the car, we enjoyed the bustling Friday night scene and wandered into a few shops. We contemplated buying lovely sweaters at Out of Ireland, stopped in at Rogers’ Chocolates and grabbed some of their famous candies and I stocked up on my favorites at the local Lush shop. (I’m a longtime addict of their Rockstar soap and I Love Juicy shampoo.) We also thought it prudent to stop at a local grocery store on the way back to stock up on Canadian treats such as Lays Ketchup Potato Chips, dreamy Mackintosh Toffee and Ruby Kit-Kat bars. (It’s possible to get these treats online, but they’re definitely pricier when ordering from within the US.)

Tasty treats
Tasty treats from Canada and beyond!

Since there are only so many hours in the day and we had definitely overloaded our itinerary, a few amazing spots will have to be saved for our next visit. If you make it there before us, here are a few very cool options to consider:

  • I have visited Craigdarroch Castle on past trips, but never get tired of taking in its majestic and storied scenery. Built by local coal baron, Robert Dunsmuir during the late 1800s, it’s now on the Canadian National Register of Historic Places and is quite a look into the luxurious life of the Victorian-era, Victoria elite.
  • In keeping with the castle theme, Hatley Castle is high on my list for the next visit. Built in 1908 and now a part of the Royal Roads University grounds, it is a beautiful turn-of-last-century example of design and opulence. Additionally, it has been the setting for many movies and television shows such as Deadpool, Arrow, X-Men: The Last Stand, X-Men 2, Smallville, Masterminds (Patrick Stewart) and MACGYVER. (Nerd Alert: These are all some of my favorites! I can’t believe I haven’t visited yet…)
  • Learn about the secrets and shady past of Victoria’s bygone days with the Discover the Past Ghostly Walks I love these type of tours and Victoria definitely has some good tales to tell. The tour starts at 9:30pm from in front of the Empress.
  • Another walking tour outfit, Off the Eaten Track, offers culinary tours featuring adventures such as Gourmet Victoria Dinner & Drinks and Eat Like a Canadian. Sounds good, eh?
  • Located in the downtown area, Axe and Grind features…AXE THROWING! They even have a league. It’s $21.23 CAD for 1 hour session and sounds AWESOME. What could possibly go wrong?? I have to admit to being pretty bummed we didn’t get to check this out. NEXT TIME.
  • If throwing axes isn’t your thing, how about flying through the air on a zipline? Or mastering an aerial obstacle course? Wildplay Element Park is located outside of Victoria and is about a 30-minute drive from downtown.
  • The Fort Rodd Hill and Fisgard Lighthouse National Historic Sites areas feature secret bunkers to explore, a beautiful lighthouse, rustic camping in their oTENTik tents and beautiful coastal scenery. What’s not to like?
  • I’ve visited the Art Gallery of Greater Victoria on past trips and have always enjoyed their featured exhibits as well as their permanent collections. With so much beautiful artwork in a beautiful gallery space, it’s definitely worth a visit.

Vader
Victoria is all about the Arts – and The Force!

After another well-earned sleep, we were up early to take in the highlight of our trip, the 156th annual Victoria Highland Games & Celtic Festival at Topaz Park. As one of longest running Highland games in Canada, it is quite an affair and we were very excited to enjoy it – Haggis and all! We’d initially thought of stopping in at the Moss Street Farmer’s Market or the Victoria Public Market at the Hudson on our way to the games, but decided to make a beeline for the bagpipes. I love a good farmers market, but I’ll have to save it for next visit.

With events occurring for a week prior to the actual games, you can enjoy several days of Scottish and Celtic celebration. Kicking off with the Tartan Parade through downtown Victoria on the Saturday prior and including the Tilted Kilt Pubcrawl, there are many ways to get excited for the weekend festivities.

As we’d gotten an early start, we were among the first to head through the gates. (Which also allowed for some great parking!) Things were just getting started and as we entered the grounds and we were greeted with a morning fanfare of traditional bagpipe melodies. Everywhere we looked, people were dressed in full kilt regalia, period costume and all things plaid. The morning was brilliantly sunny and it had the makings of a glorious, Scots-filled day. Now to find some tasty Scottish treats!

Walking around the grounds, it was no trouble finding an abundance of Scottish goodies; Not to mention kilts, Scottish clan information, accessories and more. However, since we wanted to catch the opening of the ceremony and the massing of the bands, we temporarily curbed our shopping and found a good viewing spot on the main parade grounds.

You either love bagpipes – or you hate ‘em. I absolutely love them and they never fail to inspire me. Seeing and hearing hundreds of pipers and drummers massing together and marching in time is truly a glorious thing. (Again, I love the bagpipes. I can see how this might not appeal to someone who doesn’t…) The musicians did not disappoint and it was a great start to a sunny, Victoria morning. And even though it was spring in the Pacific Northwest, I was wishing I’d applied more sunscreen…

After enjoying the bands, we did a bit of shopping and browsing. We all found things we couldn’t live without and stocked up on various Scottish treats. While shortbread and toffee can certainly be enjoyed as a meal, it seemed like a good time to check out the more hearty offerings of the food vendors. (And the beer tent!) Kristen and Tori opted for traditional fish & chips, but since there was an actual haggis stand, that’s where I lined up. I know it doesn’t sound immediately appealing and I was skeptical the first time I tried it, but I’ve grown to love haggis; especially when served with whisky gravy, tatties and neeps. (Mashed potatoes and mashed turnips/rutabagas) I’d liken haggis to a cross between sausage and corned beef hash.

In addition to our tasty lunches, we enjoyed a beer along with a demonstration of Scottish dancing on the nearby stage. It’s similar to Irish step dancing and always seems very merry. It was a great accompaniment to our meal and provided a great excuse to sit down and rest for a spell. After we got our fill of the dance, we grabbed another beer and went off to locate what would be a very cool falconry demonstration and then onto the tossing of heavy objects! (And more beer!)

The actual ‘games’ of the Scottish games celebrations involve the tossing of items such as enormous wooden poles called ‘cabers’ and ridiculously heavy weights, shot-puts and hammers. The items are tossed for height or distance and typically involve a lot of grunting and are referred to as the ‘heavy events.’ Both men and women compete and it’s never a dull display. There is also an epic tug-of-war event that blows away any schoolyard completion I could ever recall from grade school. The athletes that participate in these events are incredibly strong and incredibly fun to watch. We were absolutely entertained and it was a great way to wrap up the afternoon.

After all of that traditional Scottish pageantry, we were ready for a traditional dinner at one of Victoria’s coolest pubs, Bard & Banker Public House in the heart of downtown Victoria. I’ve visited on several occasions and I’m never disappointed. This time was no exception and everything we ordered was quite tasty. It’s an expansive pub full of traditional decor and can get quite boisterous on a weekend night – perfect for celebrating after the Highland games! I always try to make it in for at least a pint on any visit. They also have a great whisky, beer and wine list.

Even though we were pretty full after dinner, we were on vacation and decided we needed dessert. Not too far from the Bard & Banker, we ran across one of the most glorious purveyors of dessert glory to be found, Chocolats Flavoris. Bottom line, they serve CHOCOLATE POUTINE. Good lord. Chocolate poutine, I say!

Poutine, a traditional Canadian dish featuring French fries, cheese curds and gravy, is a heart-stopping mound of deliciousness. Their version of poutine, featuring French fry sized pastries, ice cream, marshmallows (for the cheese curds) and chocolate sauce can officially stop my heart anytime! They also serve amazing fondue, chocolate bars, customizable sundaes with one-of-a-kind sauces and more. WOW! I’d be in SO much trouble if there were one of these close to home…

If you’re not in the mood for traditional pub food, there are many options in the downtown area to suit any tastes. A few places to consider:

  • The 10 Acres Bistro and Kitchen are two, separate spots, directly next to each other. Featuring farm-to-table fare made with goods grown on their own farm, they’re a great place to enjoy the fresh flavors of Vancouver Island. Located in downtown Victoria, near the Inner Harbour.
  • Bin 4 Burger Lounge features delicious gourmet burgers and more, made with local ingredients. There are a few locations on Vancouver Island with two being in downtown Victoria and the Westwood areas.
  • For classic Pacific Northwest fare and classic Jazz, check out Herman’s Jazz Club in the downtown area for a great night out. (Note: Reservations for dinner and shows are recommended.)

On the way back to the car, we timed it perfectly and were able to catch the Clan torchlight parade in front of the Parliament building. The lights popped on and the bagpipes began to play. It truly was a lovely way to end the day. The weather was sublime and the sunset over the Inner Harbour in addition to the music was absolutely enchanting. We all agreed it was a pretty fitting end to our first visit to the Victoria Highland Games and definitely plan on returning for future games.

As we’d gotten back to the Airbnb at a fairly reasonable hour the night before, we were feeling relatively refreshed the next morning. We packed up all our things at the Airbnb and resigned ourselves to enjoy one last morning in Victoria. The weather was great and the skies clear; it was going to be a beautiful trip home on the ferry.

But first, we wanted to get in one last jaunt around downtown Victoria. I’d been wanting to locate Mile 0, the genesis of the iconic, near 5000-mile Trans-Canada Highway, so off we went in search of it. (It spans the entire length of Canada!) Located on the hills just past downtown and the Inner Harbour, it’s well worth a visit and the views looking out over the water are beautiful. There are also great trails leading down to the shore and a nice park where you can pull up some grass and enjoy a picnic. (But maybe don’t actually pull up any grass…)

After checking out the highway majesty of Mile-0, we hit up the funky and very delicious, Frankie’s Modern Diner near the Inner Harbour for breakfast. While enjoying our meals, we contemplated what we could possibly fit into the few hours we had left. Since we’d missed seeing the Saturday farmers market, we all agreed the Bastion Square Sunday Market sounded like a great idea.

Turns out it was indeed a good idea and we much enjoyed the artisan scene of the market. Set along the walkways of Bastion Square in downtown Victoria, the market features all sorts of wonderful local arts and crafts. Each of us found several great items and chatted with a few of the artists. It was a great way to bid adieu to the city and all of its artful charms.

Since we needed to get in line for the ferry at 1pm, it was time to head back towards the car. Along the way, however, we made a stop at one of Victoria’s most famous shops, Murchie’s Tea. (Murchie’s founder and Scotsman, John Murchie, learned his trade by delivering tea to Queen Victoria while she was in residence at Balmoral Castle and learned to blend the teas she enjoyed.) Since Victoria is known as the “tea capital of Canada”, it goes without saying this shop helped cultivate that title. (It’s been around since 1894) I go there every time I’m in town and always stock up on their delicious tea blends, my favorites being their Black Currant and Scottish Breakfast teas. (Okay, maybe I often pick up a tea cup or two. This trip was no exception.) They also serve a lovely afternoon tea and feature a deli and sandwich counter I’d compare to my beloved Fortnum & Mason in London. (Same goes for their large tea selection!)

In addition to the excellent scene at Murchie’s, there are many other spots to enjoy tea in the area. A few more places to celebrate with your “pinkies out”:

  • If you’re looking for a lovely guest house and delicious high tea, Pendray Inn & Tea House has you covered. Located just up from the Inner Harbour, they are a beautiful place to rest your head and sip your tea.
  • The Abkhazi Garden &Teahouse serve high tea and light lunch items surrounded by an absolutely beautiful garden setting. Cultivated by the Prince and Princess Abkhazi over the course of 40 years, the house and gardens are a lovely tribute to their story.
  • Located just outside the downtown area, White Heather Tea Room serves traditional high teas as well as light lunch fare. They get great reviews and are high on my list for future visits.
  • Located in Chinatown, La Roux Patisserie is also high on my list for my next visit. Serving French pastries, cakes, coffee and tea, they are well known for their delicious treats.
  • Also in Chinatown, Silk Road Tea features not only delicious teas, but also a skincare line and a day-spa. I am completely on board with spending the afternoon sipping tea and enjoying spa services. Completely.
  • Serving delicious breakfast, lunch and high tea since 1956, Dutch Bakery does not disappoint. They also offer wonderful looking wedding cakes and delicious pastries.
  • Venus Sophia Tea Room & Vegetarian Eatery bill themselves as a ‘modern tearoom’ and feature traditional high tea fare with a twist. Located in downtown Victoria, they are nice respite from the hubbub of the city. Reservations are recommended.
  • Located outside of Victoria, Westholme Tea Company and farm hosts a tea shop, gallery, tours and tearoom. I haven’t visited yet, but it looks like a lovely spot to spend a few peaceful hours. It’s high on my list for my next visit.

Mugs
Okay. Maybe I picked up a few mugs…

And with that, it was time to board the ferry and return to Washington State. A couple of hours back on the MV Coho and we arrived safely on the shores of home. I love Victoria – and I love Canada. To know I can get a shot of Canadian goodness along with a proper spot of tea just a couple of hours from my home is a wonderful thing, indeed. We do have so much in common with our Canadian neighbors, but it is also nice to celebrate what makes us both unique. I think we have a pretty cool partnership. Until next time, Victoria. Take good care, eh?

Butchart Gardens
I infinitely love you, Victoria! (from the Sunken Garden at Butchart Gardens)

 

I Ate the State – Special Edition: Victoria B.C. – Click HERE to check out my custom Spotify playlist

~A celebration of Canadian Musicians and Song~

  • Dance Me to the End of Love – Madeline Peyroux (from Careless Love)
  • Harvest Moon – Cassandra Wilson (from New Moon Daughter)
  • Yvette in English – Joni Mitchell (from Turbulent Indigo)
  • The Dry Cleaner from Des Moines – Joni Mitchell (from Mingus)
  • Refuge of the Roads – Joni Mitchell (from Hejira)
  • Beautiful Child – Rufus Wainwright (from Want One)
  • I Don’t Know What It Is – Rufus Wainwright (from Want One)
  • I’m An Errand Girl for Rhythm – Diana Krall (from All for You – A Dedication to the Nat King Cole Trio)
  • Hit that Jive Jack – Diana Krall (from All for You – A Dedication to the Nat King Cole Trio)
  • If You Could Read My Mind – Gordon Lightfoot (from If You Could Read My Mind)
  • Luck in My Eyes – K.D. Lang & The Reclines (from Absolute Torch & Twang)
  • Atomic Number – Neko Case, K.D. Lang, Laura Veirs (from case/lang/veirs)
  • Closer to the Heart – Rush (from A Farewell to Kings)
  • Fly By Night – Rush (from Fly By Night)
  • Let Love Reign – Robbie Robertson (from Let Love Reign/I Hear You Paint Houses)
  • Theme from the Last Waltz – Concert Version – The Band (from The Last Waltz)
  • Coyote (feat. Joni Mitchell) – Concert Version – The Band, Joni Mitchell (from The Last Waltz)
  • Marrakesh Night Market – Loreena McKennitt (from The Mask and the Mirror)
  • Bonny Portmore – Loreena McKennitt (from The Visit)
  • Misguided Angel – Cowboy Junkies (from The Trinity Sessions)
  • 1234 – Feist (from The Reminder)
  • Sealion – Feist (from The Reminder)
  • Crabbuckit – K-OS (from Joyful Rebellion)
  • There’s Nothing Holdin’ Me Back – Shawn Mendes (from Illuminate)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

 Quick links to more I Ate the State adventures: