I Ate the State – Lewis County

Welcome back to the adventures of I Ate the State! It’s been a while and I’m happy to be back in the driver’s seat.

One of the two oldest counties in Washington, Lewis County is brimming with history and beauty. The indigenous peoples of the area have called it home for millennia, treasuring its bountiful resources. The beauty of the area encompasses epic mountains, winding rivers, and an ever-evolving volcanic legacy. The modern era hosts a central location for enjoying this history and beauty along with providing much opportunity for the future. Within what many see as a passing, often rainy section of the I-5 corridor between Canada and Oregon, lies a fascinating part of the state waiting to be explored and appreciated.

Originally named Vancouver County in 1845, it was renamed in 1849 after Lewis and Clark explorer, Merriweather Lewis. Suffice it to say, getting to Lewis County isn’t quite the expedition it once may have been. The aforementioned I-5 corridor is likely the most popular way to get to the area with mountainous US-12 and SR-6 from the coastal areas also being well-traveled routes. Since I am presently located in the greater Seattle area, I typically take I-5, but if you’re coming over from east of the Cascades, US-12 is both beautiful and efficient. US-101 along the coast to SR-6 can also make for a lovely excursion into Lewis County. (Pro tip: If you’re coming over US-12 in the winter months, check the pass reports and consider using I-90 as an alternate route.)

If you’re heading south on I-5 like me, Centralia is the first main city in Lewis County you’ll find. Originally named Centerville and founded by African-American, George Washington, Centralia is the largest city in Lewis County and was incorporated in 1886. Centralia owes much of its success to the foresight and generosity of George Washington, the only African-American to found a town in the northwest. Along with his wife, Mary Jane, Mr. Washington was instrumental in creating the town core as well as generously helping struggling townsfolk during financial and social crises of the day, in spite of racial prejudices.

Having evolved into a more peaceful burg in present times, Centralia experienced its fair share of havoc during its formative years. Check out these areas on your next visit to Centralia to learn more about the history of the area:

• The downtown area is a designated historic district and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. In addition to being very scenic and charming, it is very walkable. Hit up some of Historic Centralia by foot and take a stroll through time.
• Visit George Washington Park (c. 1881) in the town square to pay tribute to Centralia’s founding father. The park hosts local events and is also home to the Centralia Timberland Library (c. 1913) and features several statues, including the WW I memorial The Sentinel, by Alonzo Victor Lewis (c. 1924) and statues of town founders, George and Mary Jane Washington.
• In 1919, the Centralia Massacre occurred between members of the American Legion and Industrial Workers of the World (“Wobblies”) during an Armistice Day parade.  As a result of the bloody fight, six people died, many were wounded, and trials and prison sentences followed thereafter. The location of the conflict took place at 807 N Tower Ave in downtown Centralia.
• For a glimpse into Centralia in the early 1900s, pop into the Centralia Train Station in downtown Centralia. Built by Northern Pacific Railway in 1912 and now an Amtrak station, it is still serving travelers today.
• The grand Centralia Fox Theatre (c. 1930), a gem in the downtown corridor, has played host to theatre, cinema, and more during its near 100-year run. This historic theatre is currently being renovated and will hopefully again shine its stage lights.
• Just a short drive from downtown, head to Fort Borst Park for a look at the historic Borst Home, (c. early 1860s) the blockhouse, (c. 1856) and one-room school replica. In addition to a look back into Centralia’s past, this large park also features modern park amenities as well as sports facilities and a rhododendron garden. It is located at the confluence of the Chehalis and Skookumchuck rivers.
• Paying tribute to the history of Centralia’s working ladies, the unique Shady Lady Bordello Museum can be visited in the upstairs area of the expansive Shady Lady Antiques. Located in the downtown area, the Shady Lady is a great place to start your exploration of Centralia’s downtown Antique stores.

To set yourself up for exploring Centralia, you’ll need a good place to rest up and refuel. Originally a men’s hotel by the name of The Oxford Hotel (c. 1908 – on the National Register of Historic Places), the Olympic Club Saloon & Hotel now opens its doors to all. Operated by the McMenamins family, the hotel has retained its original grandeur and provides an enjoyable journey into Centralia’s past. The Olympic Club Saloon & Hotel is a great place to stay or to grab a tasty meal. Saddle up to the historic bar and grab one of their namesake beverages, play a game of pool, check out the movie theatre, relax on their outdoor patio – and eat some tots!

Sidebar: Their Cajun tots are delicious. I live next door to the McMenamins Anderson School and it’s dangerous living so close to delicious tots. DANGEROUS.) It should also be mentioned that they offer other delicious fare as well. True story! (Important note: February 2^nd is National Tater Tot Day. Just sayin’.)

Since 1983, the McMenamins family has been rescuing and transforming northwest gems and now has over 60 historic locations throughout Oregon and Washington. With each location paying homage to its original purpose and local legends, you can enjoy a great stay and learn about the history of the area. Check out their Passport program which rewards guests for stays and purchases at McMenamins properties. (Including free and/or discounted tater tots.)

If you find your diet requires more than just tater tots (Wait. WHAT??), there are many great dining spots in the Centralia area. Here are a few options to help curb your appetite:

• Serving Centralia since 1973, Country Cousin offers classic diner fare including breakfast, lunch, and more. Open daily from 7am – 8pm. Don’t’ forget to stop into their “Country Store” gift shop for a piece of country kitsch.
• A question I will continue to ask is, “Why isn’t there a Burgerville closer to the Seattle area? WHY??” But whenever I’m in the Centralia area, I love their signature marionberry shakes, Walla Walla onion rings, and delicious burgers. YUM! Don’t miss a stop at this northwest institution. (Dear Burgerville, why aren’t you in the Seattle-area? WHY??)
• While I haven’t yet visited the Berry Fields Café, it comes highly recommended by a longtime local. Their food looks very tasty and I’m looking forward to stopping by during my next Centralia visit. Serving breakfast and lunch, in a very charming location, they’re open daily from 7am to 5pm.
• Not only does Dick’s Brewing Company feature tasty brews, they handmake and smoke delicious sausage! Hit up their tasting room on Friday & Saturday from 3pm – 7:30pm (+21) to sample the suds and don’t miss grabbing some sausage at their store, NW Sausage & Deli. (Open Monday thru Saturday, 9:30am – 5pm, until 9pm on Fri/Sat. Closed Sunday.)
• Talk about a classic! Don’t miss Bill and Bea’s Café for a delicious step back in time. Featuring hand-pressed burgers, shakes, breakfast fare and more, this local gem is open daily from 8am to 8pm. (11am on Sundays) Located two blocks west of I-5, off of exit 82. Best Burger in Lewis Co (‘20, ‘21)
• For a large selection of handmade pizzas, sandwiches, salads, and beer on tap, head to the Tiki Tap House. Open Tuesday thru Saturday, 11:30am – 9pm. (Closed Sunday/Monday)

Big on celebrating the history and bounty of the area, Centralia has several things to keep you entertained, informed, and full throughout the year. A few ideas for your next visit:

• Located all around downtown historic Centralia, the yearly Antique Fest is not to be missed. The entire downtown core participates and it’s a great time for exploring old and new. The event also features a tasty selection of food trucks and vendors. August 2-4, 2024
• Who doesn’t love a state fair? Fried foods of every kind, rides, exhibits, animals, music, and more! Every August, the Centralia area gears up for the SW Washington State Fair located conveniently in between Centralia and nearby Chehalis. FRIED FOODS! (August 13^th – 18^th, 2024)
• If you’re looking to repel a vampire, improve your kissing game, or maybe make a better spaghetti sauce, head to the Washington State Garlic Fest and stock up! (Located at the fairgrounds, end of August 2024)
• Located at Pine Street Plaza in downtown Centralia, the Centralia Farmer’s Market features a nice variety of local produce and artisan wares. Operating April thru September from 11am – 5pm. (Possibly into October, weather pending) Be sure to visit their Holiday Market on Fridays thru Sundays, after Thanksgiving thru mid-December, for holiday gifts and treats. (Fri/Sat – 10am to 5pm, Sun – 10am to 4pm)
• For an experience in all things farming, head to Seedpod Farm. Located on the banks of the Skookumchuck River, Seedpod Farms plays hosts to animals, bees, gardens, crops, and more. Sign up for one of their hosted garden walks, check out The Keystone Labyrinth, and learn about the opportunities associated with their CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) farm share. Don’t miss picking up a flower bouquet from their seasonal flower patch. (Farm visits, classes, and walks are by appointment only) 

Just south of Centralia on I-5, the charming town of Chehalis awaits your visit. There are several exits leading directly off of I-5, but if you happen to be coming from (or going to) Centralia, the Jackson Highway is a great side route to explore. Not only will you avoid the often busy I-5, you’ll get a scenic view of the area. If you happen to be coming north on I-5, you can access this route off I-5 near Gee Cee’s Truck stop. (I-5 Exit 57) It shortly merges with SR-505 near Toledo, passes by Lewis and Clark State Park near US-12 and then parallels I-5 up to Chehalis. Heading towards Centralia, it then turns into N National Ave which splits into N National Ave and NE Kresky Ave which take you to and from Centralia. Whew!

Originally called Saundersville as of 1858 with the establishment of a post office by Schuyler Saunders, it became Chehalis in 1870. Saunders, along with wife Eliza Barrett, moved to the area around 1850. Eliza became quite an important figure in the development of the area and surpassed her first husband Saunders in terms of local importance and character. Using her land gained through marriage to Saunders, she strategically assisted the expansion of the area and used her influence and wealth to create businesses, cultural pillars, and community. In addition to being married several times, which was unusual for the era, she didn’t adhere to the social norms of the day and largely contributed to establishing Chehalis as an important part in the development of Washington State.

While becoming the county seat in 1874, and being officially recognized as Chehalis in 1879, the area has long been home to the Confederated Tribes of the Chehalis Reservation, with their presence predating the town of Chehalis by many years and much history. With the Chehalis and Newaukum rivers converging near Chehalis, this strategic meeting has always provided an important bounty for the area of which the Chehalis tribes, known as the People of the Sands, have been essential stewards.

As you enter the downtown area, it’s easy to see how Chehalis looked in its early days. Many of the buildings in the downtown core are over 100 years old and sit on the National Register of Historic Places. The entire downtown district is in fact on the register. Just a quick drive around town will give you the stately Lewis Co Courthouse (c. 1927), the beautiful Chehalis Timberland Library (c. 1910), the cornerstone St. Helens Hotel (c. 1921), and many more interesting locations. If you’re in the mood to pep up your drive, head to the historic Hillside District and take a walk around John Dobson and McFadden Parks. The drive to get there involves some twisty turns and will take you by the Troop 373 and 7373 Scout Lodge (c. 1937), where you can catch the Dobson-McFadden walking trail, which connects the two parks.

For a more thorough take on the area, head to the Lewis Co Historical Museum and immerse yourself in local lore. Set in what was originally the Burlington Northern Depot (c. 1912), it hosts a great collection of the town’s history. It is also the start of the Historic Downtown Walking Tour should you want to get those steps in. Be sure to note the giant stump near the museum entry. It was originally cut down to accommodate an ultimately cancelled visit by President McKinley, but did host President Teddy Roosevelt in 1903, followed by future president William Howard Taft, and later, VP nominee, Franklin D. Roosevelt in 1920. (Open 10am – 4/5pm. Closed Sunday/Monday. Summer and winter hours vary.)

Adventure brings hunger. Hunger leads to hangry. Hangry leads to the dark side. Don’t let your hunger get the hangry point during your Chehalis journeys. There are some great spots to stop and feed the hangry while in the area. Here are some local favorites:

• At the very top of my list is the amazing Shona’s Food Company. I would make the drive to Chehalis just to visit this place. Run by the lovely Shona, this delicious spot features foods from Shona’s American/British/Northern Ireland heritage, as well as hand-crafted cheese from the Black Sheep Creamery. The bap sandwiches… The desserts… The hand pies… SO DELICIOUS! (Tuesday – Friday, 6am – 3pm, Saturday, 6am – 5pm) Also in the same building and adjacent to Shona’s is the charming  Ewe and I. Sadly, I never learned to knit, but this place inspires me to fix that issue. (Tuesday – Saturday, 10am – 5pm. Closed Sunday/Monday.)
• They offer reservations at the always busy Jeremy’s Farm to Table and I highly suggest you make some! Also featuring a market and fruit stand, this tasty spot features breakfast, lunch, dinner, music, and a generally very cool vibe. The market and fruit stand feature local produce, milk, cheese, eggs, meat, bread, etc. (Open Monday – Thursday, 10am – 9pm, Friday to 10pm, Saturday 8am – 10pm, Sunday to 8pm.)
• While primarily a used book store, Shakespeare & Co. also sells take-away homemade soups on Wednesdays. This lovely spot is also a great place to pick up a good read. (Open Monday – Friday, 11am – 5pm, Saturday and Sunday, 10am, Sunday noon to 4:30.)
• The classic Shire Bar & Bistro features steak, seafood, and bistro fare. Catering to the area for the past 20 years, this spot is a popular destination for a tasty night out. (Open Tuesday – Friday, 11:30am – 9pm, Saturday 5pm – 9pm. Closed Sunday/Monday)

The next part of Lewis County I’d planned to investigate was west of Chehalis, along SR-6 and towards Pe Ell. That said, on the way out of town and along the way, I found several spots well worth a visit:

• The oldest, continually lived-in residence in Washington is the McFadden Log House (c. 1859), located in a quiet Chehalis neighborhood. It’s well worth checking out, but as it’s a private residence, you’ll need to do so from your car, as you slowly roll by. Just be cool. And respectful!
• Stop by the expansive Veterans Memorial Museum, located on the outskirts of Chehalis for a well-curated look at military and veteran history. (Open Tuesday – Saturday, 10am – 5pm. Closed Sunday/Monday)
• Just around the corner from the Veterans Memorial Museum, is the charming Chehalis-Centralia Railroad & Museum. It was unfortunately closed when I stopped by, but it features a dinner train, an escape room, and seasonal rides, including a Polar Express event in the winter. Their steam engine is currently undergoing repairs, so check online for future departures.
• If you happen to be in the area during the fall, stop by Willy Tee’s Pumpkin Patch at Teitzel Farm and stock up on decorative pumpkins and gourds as well as lovely sugar pumpkins. (Friday – Sunday, 10am – 7pm during the fall months)
• Claquato was the original county seat of Lewis County and the quaint Claquato Church is still standing. Built in 1858, it is actually the oldest standing church in Washington State. While original construction plans were for a Presbyterian church, it ended up being consecrated as a Methodist church and school. It’s on the National Register of Historic Places and is well worth a visit. Featuring the original bell, the crown steeple, topped by a crown of thorns, is inspired by New England meeting houses. (Located just off of SR-6, on the way to Adna and Pe Ell.)

Lewis County has its fair share of beautiful landscapes and the route along SR-6 features several examples. Take a break from the four-wheel travel modes and set out in the open, clean air. The epic Willapa Hills State Park Trail goes between Chehalis and South Bend for an adventure-filled 56 miles of biking, walking, and horseback riding. I covered this in my Pacific County article and was happy to explore more parts of the trail while in Lewis County.

If you’re looking for camping, hiking, and fishing opportunities, Rainbow Falls State Park is a great choice. It’s very accessible, beautiful, (it has a fuchsia garden!) and hosts part of the aforementioned Willapa Hills State Park Trail. I spent a couple of hours hanging out by the falls and it was a lovely way to spend a sunny afternoon. (Complete with rainbows!)

Pro Tip: Be sure to get the appropriate licenses before heading out to the parks and trailheads. Get your Discover Pass for state parks and a recreational license if you plan on doing any fishing.

While services and restaurants are more sparsely located in the area, there are indeed some great places to check out. Located just off of SR-6, Adna Grocery is a great place to stock up on groceries, deli foods, and delicious treats – and don’t miss the Doty General Store for a trip back in time. (Also features a post office, antiques, knickknacks, baked goods, etc.) If you’re in need of relaxing, gorgeous farmland views while enjoying a tasty brew, be sure to hit up the excellent Jones Creek Brewing. (Friday 4-8pm, Saturday 12pm – 8pm, Sunday 12pm – 4pm) While Jones Creek Brewing does have light snacks, head just a little further west to Pe Ell and hit up Evey’s Café for homestyle diner far and a full bar. (Daily, 8am – 9pm.)

Since my last visit to the area, the wonderful Owl & Olive café has closed. They do, however, still host weddings and events in their lovely barn, along with delicious catering. The couple who owns the establishment is wonderful and I had a great time hanging out during my visit. I sincerely hope they reopen the café at some point, but in the meantime, check out the annual Ride the Willapa race which starts at the Owl & Olive. (The 2023 race was on Saturday, June 24^th.)

Another great way to explore the Lewis County scene while avoiding the I-5 corridor is to jump on Old Hwy 603, south of Chehalis, and head to the Napavine area. It’s a lovely drive along this two-lane, classic Washington highway, with great spots along the way to visit. If you’re feeling peckish, or a maybe a little thirsty, check out Ramblin’ Jacks Rib-eye for a classic steak, BBQ, or tasty breakfast. (Open daily, 8am – 9pm.) Or, for a further step back in time, try out Frosty’s Saloon & Grill (c. 1901) for family-friendly diner fare. (Saturday/Sunday, open at 8am, Monday – Friday, open 11am. Open until 10pm Sun-Thurs, 2am on Fri/Sat.) Also be sure to check out the new kid in town, the Tumac Taproom for craft beer and cider on tap. (Monday – Thursday, 4-9pm, Friday/Saturday, 12– 10pm, Sunday 12 – 7pm)

Just down from Napavine on Old Hwy 603 sits the eclectic town of Winlock. A lumber town from its early days, it brought Finnish, German, and Swedish immigrants to the area to work in the mills. In addition to its successful lumber industry, the town gained fame as the Egg and Poultry Capital of the World. While no longer a player in the poultry industry, Winlock is now host to the WORLD’S LARGEST EGG. It’s well worth a visit, especially if you can check it out during the annual Winlock Egg Days. (June 15^th, 2024) There’s a parade, farmer’s market, evening street dance, and FREE EGG SALAD SANDWICHES. (Be still my egg salad loving heart. What more do you need?? Tots. Okay, good point.)

Side note: Apparently Indiana thinks they have the world’s largest egg. Let’s fight! Maybe an egg toss? Or one of those egg-in-a-teaspoon relays… Let’s do this! (And it looks like Canada wants to enter the fray as well. Hmm.)

If eggs aren’t your thing, head to the Winlock Historical Museum and see what else the history of the area has to offer. (Open Wed/Thurs/Sat, 11am – 2) Or maybe grab your instrument and hit up the annual Winlock Pickersfest. (August 3-5, 2024.) It features concerts, jams, and workshops, along with camping, food, horseshoes, and more! But if you decide you do actually need more chicken-related fun, walk around the downtown area and visit the rooster statues. (These ones are nice and won’t chase you mercilessly around the farmyard.) Finish up your tribute to all things eggs with a visit to the unique Rowdy Rooster Bistro & Thrift. (Open Tuesday – Friday, 8am – 4pm. Closed Saturday – Monday)

As you head out of Winlock, there are a couple of nice routes to explore. If you’d like to head back to I-5, jump on SR-505 and head southeast, passing by the modern part of Winlock. If you’d like to stick to the quieter roads, check out the Winlock-Vader Road and consider a visit to the tiny town of… Vader. (OH how I wish they had a Star Wars festival. Come on.)

Established in 1906, the town of Vader (originally named Little Falls) may be small, but it’s worth a visit. I had a great time on my sunny visit and enjoyed a very tasty breakfast of biscuits and gravy at the quaint Little Crane Café. This classic, small town diner serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, along with old-school, kitschy décor. (Open daily, 7am – 8pm)

After breakfast, I decided to work off the biscuits with a walk around the area. My first stop was at the Old City Jail and adjacent J.K. Werden Memorial Park. (There’s a museum inside the jail, but said jail is unfortunately closed for repairs.) Just a block or so over from the park is the charming Grace Evangelical Church of Vader. (c. 1902) I wrapped up my tour with a visit to the conveniently timed Citywide Yard Sale, hosted by the local Lion’s Club, right alongside SR-506. (Usually first weekend in August) I also was able to visit the historic Rosehill home, owned by lovely author, Judi Costello, who was also hosting a yard sale that afternoon.

After toting my unexpected yard sale purchases back to the car, it was time to head towards I-5 on SR 506 and back to the eastern side of Lewis County. Crossing under I-5 on SR-506, which then becomes Toledo-Vader Road, I headed into the little town of Toledo. (Note: You have not arrived in Ohio.)

Should you be in immediate need of an old-school burger, from SR-506, take the Cowlitz Loop underpass and check out Mrs. Beesley’s Burgers. (Open daily, 11am – 8pm.) There’s also an informative heritage marker just across the parking lot describing the Cowlitz Landing area and the Cowlitz Trail. Count yourself as lucky. I’m pretty sure the tedious canoe ride on the adjacent Cowlitz River didn’t end up with a tasty burger and fries.

From Mrs. Beesley’s, jump on the adjacent Cowlitz Ridge Road and follow it north to Toledo-Vader Road. Or hop on I-5 North and take Exit 60 to Toledo-Vader Road. Then, simply follow Toledo-Vader Road east into… Toledo! At any rate, there should be jumping or hopping involved.

Once known as Cowlitz Landing, modern-day Toledo now exists a little further east, but still sits next to the river. There is much history in the area, including the settlement history of Washington State and in particular, millennia of Native American history of the Cowlitz Tribe. From the importance of the cross-Cascades, Native American Cowlitz Trail to some of the earliest settlement history of the Fort Cowlitz/Cowlitz Farm, the Toledo area has been integral in the development of Washington State.

There’s a lot of great exploring to do in this area and some excellent backroads to travel along. Should you want to grab some sustenance before embarking on your Toledo-area adventure, check out these local spots:

• Stop in at Donna’s Place for burgers, pizza, and classic diner fare. Located in downtown Toledo, they’re open Tuesday – Thursday, from 11am – 8pm. (Friday/Saturday to 9pm. Closed Sunday/Monday.)
• Don’t miss Betty’s Place, a classic spot offering old-school burgers, milkshakes, and more. Open daily, 10:30am to 8pm. (Friday/Saturday to 9pm) Might I add they have fry sauce, fried mushrooms, fried green beans, and my favorite sandwich. (Turkey, bacon, Swiss, tomato on grilled sourdough. Yes, please.) (Side note: I wonder if Donna and Betty are friends? Rivals?)
• If you’re looking for a boutique winery located in a beautiful, pastoral location, just outside of downtown Toledo, head directly to Bateaux Cellars. Super friendly owners, regular events, great outdoor seating areas, and tasty wine make this a must-visit spot. They source their grapes from the fantastic Airfield Estates vineyard near Sunnyside, which were featured in the very lovely Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon I tried on my visit. They also carry beer from Brothers Cascadia Brewing (located in Vancouver) and ciders from local OutWest Ciders. On the day of my visit, there was a local artisan event happening and I ended up with an amazing sculpture from Rusting Day Dreams and some tasty coffee from Black Cat Coffee Co. (Winery tasting room – Friday, 2-6pm, Saturday, Noon-6pm, Sunday, Noon-5pm)
• For more local artisan action, stop by the Toledo Thursday Market and enjoy what the area has to offer. Their upcoming season opens March 13^th, 2024 and can be found at 115 Ramsey Way at the Steamboat Landing.

After enjoying a stop in Toledo, I headed north onSR-505 to Jackson Hwy and then on to the Lewis & Clark State Park. This is a nice park for camping, horseback riding, hiking, and includes equestrian campsite areas. To learn more about the area, head a little further up Jackson Hwy to the Jackson House State Park Heritage Site and enjoy a picnic while you learn more about area history. (Discover Pass required at both locations.)

Continue following Jackson Hwy past the Jackson House State Park Heritage Site to US-12, also known as the White Pass Scenic Byway. (c. 1926. In 1967, it was extended to its current endpoint in Aberdeen.) At this point, you can continue to follow Jackson Hwy all the way back to Chehalis, but I chose to head east on US-12 towards Packwood and White Pass. If you happen to be coming to Lewis County from the eastern side of the state, I highly recommend coming over via US-12. Overall, US-12 is one of my very favorite roads in the state. It’s filled with interesting stops, great food and drink, and leads to some of the most spectacular scenery in the entire United States. It is truly one of the great American highways.

Note: You can take US-12 all the way to Detroit, should you be so inclined! I’ve driven it into Helena, Montana and it was an amazing, incredibly scenic route. (And all those mountains and twisty turns – YOWSA!)

Heading east on US-12 will take you over the very large Mayfield Lake. Formed by Mayfield Dam, the Mayfield Lake Park is located just off of US-12 on Beach Road. It’s a great place for boating, swimming, fishing, and camping. (Note: Be sure to make reservations as the area gets crowded in the summer months.) If you’re looking to rent a boat or jet ski or are interested in cottages or cabins, check out the Mayfield Lake Resort & Marina.

A few miles past Mayfield Lake, you’ll hit the tiny town of Mossyrock. Stop by the family-friendly Pioneer Bar & Grill for classic diner fare, including burgers, pizza, and sandwiches. (Open daily, 11am – 10pm, 11pm on Fri/Sat, 9pm on Sunday.) If you happen to be in the area during July or the winter holiday season, stop in at Aldrich Berry Farm & Nursery for delicious blueberries and Christmas trees. A second-generation farm, they’ve been operating in the area since 1944.

Meandering east on US-12 is a great way to go. However, if you happen to be coming from the north, you might consider hitting up SR-7 off of I-5 near the Fife area. This will bring you down past Spanaway, and to the tiny town of Elbe. Not far past Elbe, you’ll enter Lewis County and the town of Mineral. This route, filled with scenic farmland, is what I travel if when I’m headed to the White Pass Ski Area. (White Pass is one of my favorite places to ski in the world. THE WORLD.)

Whether you enter Morton via US-12 or SR-7, the area is perfectly situated for taking a break and plotting your mountain adventures. Located on US-12, in between Mt. Rainier and Mt. Saint Helens, the Morton area has much to offer as a mountain gateway location. If you happen to be in the area in mid-August, be sure to hit up the Morton Loggers Jubilee (August 8-11, 2024) and learn about the logging history of the area. In its 81^st year, it features all things logging, plus lawnmower races and a parade!

While planning your mountain adventure, be sure to stop in at one of Morton’s great restaurants and fuel up for your journey. Check out one of these spots on your next visit:

• For a great family-friendly diner experience, featuring breakfast, lunch, and dinner, stop in at Papa Bears Restaurant & Lounge. Open daily from 8am – 8pm.
• It’s been a tradition to stop at Plaza Jalisco when returning home from White Pass Ski Area. Family-friendly, big portions and always tasty. Open daily from 11am – 9pm. (Friday/Saturday to 10pm)
• Located downtown, in the historic Morton Hotel building, the Rivers Coffeehouse & Bistro is open early for breakfast and features healthy and tasty options. Open 7am – 4pm, Sunday thru Thursday and 7am – 7pm on Friday/Saturday. If you’re interested in staying in the area, be sure to inquire about their inn rooms located upstairs from the bistro.
• I love to pack a bit of tasty jerky for my mountain adventures. Bear Ridge Smokehouse definitely fills the bill with great jerky, custom meats, custom butchering, and smoked meats. (Daily, 9am – 5:30pm, Saturday to 5pm, closed Sundays.)

Maybe you don’t want to gear up for an epic hike. Maybe you want to relax in a cool theatre or peruse some vintage goods. Never fear, downtown Morton has you covered! Hit up these locations during your Morton visit and enjoy the scene:

• Recently renovated, the charming Morton Roxy Theater (c. 1937) features first-run movies, community theatre, an events space, live music, and a gallery featuring local artists. They’ve got it all!
• Directly across the street from the Roxy Theatre, the cute and eclectic Rabbit Hole features a great variety of clothing, antiques, home goods, and more. (Open Tuesday – Friday, 10am – 5pm and Saturday, 11am – 4pm.)
• For a great selection of local artisan goods, head to the seasonal Morton Farmers Market in the downtown area. Typically open from May thru September on Saturdays from 10am – 2pm, they also feature bazaars during the holiday season.

As I continued east on US-12, I saw a sign for Riffe Lake and decided to give it a look. Given what I learned of the area’s history, I’m so glad I did. Once home to the towns of Kosmos, Riffe and Neskia before being flooded over by the Mossyrock Dam in 1968, the area is now home to Riffe Lake. The towns were “relocated,” (i.e. townspeople were forced to leave) but the actual building foundations and more still remain at the bottom of the lake. Today’s lake supports all manner of outdoor activities including boating, fishing, swimming, and hiking in the areas surrounding the lake. Occasionally, the water level of the lake decreases and during these times, portions of the submerged towns can still be seen.

After investigating Riffe Lake and its eerie history, I continued east on US-12 towards the town of Packwood, and the gateway to Mt. Rainier National Park. That said, there was no way I could miss a stop at the iconic Huff & Puff Drive-in located in the Randle area. Located directly off of US-12 and open daily from 11am – 7pm, this classic drive-in features delicious burgers, fries, shakes, and more. Huff & Puff is also an appropriately named run at nearby White Pass Ski Area. I always think of those burgers as a reward as I huff and puff my way through that run…

Also located in the greater Randle area are some beautiful hiking areas. The Goat Creek Trail / Cathedral Falls hike can be found off of Kosmos Road and features some lovely waterfall scenes. (NW Forest Pass required) If you need still more waterfall shots, check out the Covel Creek Trail & Angel Falls Loop, just south of Randle off of SR-131. (Cispus Road) This trail is very hikeable for families and accessible in the winter months. And one of these days, if the road is open and not filled with snow or landslides, I want to take SR-131 to Forest Road 25 and head further towards the Mt. Saint Helens area. One of these days!

I was getting close to wrapping up my Lewis County adventure, but not before visiting the town of Packwood. Nestled in the shadow of towering Mt. Rainier and surrounded by stunning wilderness areas, Packwood plays a strategic part in current and past Washington State development. An excellent place to learn more about the history and importance of this area is at the White Pass Country Historical Museum, located right off of US-12. It features well-curated displays and a welcoming, knowledgeable staff. (Summer hours – Thursday – Saturday, 11am – 4pm. Winter hours are Saturdays, Noon – 4pm.) For current activities and more info about Packwood and surrounding areas, don’t miss a stop at the Packwood Visitor Center. (Open Thursday – Monday, 9am – 4pm. Closed Tuesday/Wednesday.)

Packwood is a great place to visit year-round. That said, I’m typically in the area during the winter, on my way to White Pass Ski Area. However, my most recent visit was during the summer and I’m so glad I took some time out to explore the area and enjoy Packwood’s warm weather offerings. I love a good farmer’s market and the Packwood Saturday Market was a great stop. I picked up some amazing lavender goods from Randle’s Cowlitz Falls Lavender Company and loved taking in the lavender smell amidst the stately pine trees. (Seasonally, Saturdays, 9am – 1pm) Additionally, the ginormous Packwood Flea Market is not to be missed. (Memorial Day and Labor Day weekends, 9am to dusk. On US-12 and Snyder Road – over a mile long!)

Should you want to take a longer stay in Packwood, check out the Historic Hotel Packwood. (c. 1912) It’s a newly renovated boutique hotel with eight rooms and one cabin, and celebrates the history of the area. (Note: Rooms/Cabin are for guests 18+) If you’re looking for something more rustic, head to the cabins and bunkhouse at Packwood Station. The area used to house the Packwood Ranger Station for Gifford National Forest and has been renovated to accommodate lodging. (Buildings c. 1929 – 1964)

While relatively small, Packwood features several great dining options and in keeping with its strategic location, is a great place to stop when heading home from mountain adventures. I’ve personally visited Packwood many times during and after ski adventures. Here are a few of my favorite spots:

• Stop by the ski-themed Cliff Droppers for tasty burgers and hand-crafted pizzas. Be sure to pair your meal with a Rainier tallboy! Open Wednesday – Sunday, 11am – 6:45. (5:45 on Sunday) Closed Monday/Tuesday.
• I love this crazy place. The Blue Spruce Saloon & Diner is a family-friendly, diner and dive bar with great food and an always interesting scene. Many a successful ski-day have been celebrated here. Open daily from 11am – 11pm. (9am on Saturday/Sunday)
• If you’re looking for good pizza, burger, or maybe a classic breakfast dish, stop by Cruiser’s Pizza and enjoy! Open daily, 9am – 8pm (8am Saturday/Sunday)
• A good cup of coffee is an important thing, any time of day. I’ve found The Mountain Goat Coffee Company nicely fills all of my caffeine-focused needs. The atmosphere is quaint and regularly filled with locals. Try the baked goods! Open daily, 7am – 5pm.
• If you’re looking for a spot to stretch your legs on a sunny afternoon, stop by the Packwood Brewing Co. I absolutely love this place, along with their delicious Cowlitz Kolsch. They also have a small menu which includes hot dogs, brats, nachos, tacos, pretzels, and quesadillas. All great accompaniments for their great brews! Open weekdays from 3-9pm, Friday from 1-10pm, weekends from 9am – 10pm, Sunday to 9pm. (Weekend breakfast from 9-11:30am)

Keep going east on US-12 and you’ll come to the aforementioned, beyond compare White Pass Ski Area. You can’t miss it as it’s located directly beside US-12 and features a ton of old-school ski-hill charm and amazing snow. (Check out my Yakima County article for a more detailed description of the area.) For this journey, however, I chose to head home via US-12 and SR-123. This summertime route takes you into spectacular Mt. Rainier National Park and over to SR-410. It’s an amazing drive and gives you a great look at the park without having to pay the entrance fee. It can get pretty crowded, however, and you might get some extra time to check out the scenery if caught behind a motorhome – or someone unfamiliar with curvy mountain roads… On the topic of Mt. Rainier, I plan on devoting an entire article to the area as there are so many amazing areas to celebrate. Stay tuned!

• Pro Tip 1: SR-123 is closed during the winter and SR-410 is closed at the Crystal Mountain access road during the winter. Also be sure to check roads year-around for washouts and other closures. With the help of much snowplowing, US-12 remains open throughout the year. (Most of the time. Know before you go.)
• Pro Tip 2: Beginning summer of 2024, visitors entering Mt. Rainier National Park from the Nisqually, Stevens Canyon, and Sunrise/White River entrance stations during peak hours (7am – 3pm) will need reservations.

Before meeting up with SR-123, look for the turn-off on US-12 to La Wis Wis Guard Station No. 1165. Included on the National Register of Historic Places, it was built by the CCCs in 1928. Not only was it an important part of developing routes through the state, it now houses a great campground, hiking areas, fishing, and biking. It’s also in an excellent location from which to explore Mt. Rainier National Park as well as the expansive Gifford Pinchot National Forest. (Note: La Wis Wis Campground was closed in 2023 for renovations and repairs. It is planned to reopen in 2024.)

Should you feel like checking out more of the natural splendor of the area, there are nearly countless options. Here are a few more areas to explore in this spectacularly beautiful part of the state:

• Travel in the historic footsteps of Native Americans on the Cowlitz Trail. This trail was used for millennia by the Yakama and Cowlitz tribes crossing back and forth over the mountains via Cowlitz Pass. Head east on US-12 out of Packwood for nine miles and turn left onto Forest Road 4510 and follow it to the Soda Springs trailhead. You can also access the lovely Frying Pan Loop trail off of the Cowlitz Trail.
• Stop by the Ohanapecosh area off of SR-123 for amazing camping and hiking in old-growth forests. Don’t miss a stop at the very informative visitor center. Chat with a ranger and learn more about the flora and fauna of the area and the incredible bio-diversity of Mt. Rainier National Park. (Note: Ohanapecosh is not accessible in the winter months.)
• For summer hiking, the Eastside Trail is an epic, 13.3-mile, one-way trail to stunning Chinook Pass out of the Ohanapecosh Campground. Parking/access is also available at the Grove of the Patriarchs parking lot, but the actual Grove of the Patriarchs is temporarily closed due to a footbridge washout. (I hope it reopens soon as it’s a lovely, very accessible walk among the giants.) If you’re up for a longer adventure with some tent camping along the way, make it a roundtrip, 26.6-mile adventure. (Don’t forget to get your backcountry permit at the ranger station.) Or consider having a buddy pick you up at the Chinook Pass parking lot and then drive you back to Ohanapecosh. OR – park at Chinook Pass and do the hike in reverse! (A NW Forest Pass is required to park at Chinook Pass.) Any way you hike it, this is a pretty cool way to cross this part of the state.

Well alrighty. That was quite a journey! While it’s completely possible to take a very enjoyable day trip through Lewis County, I thoroughly recommend taking at least a few days to explore. I was able to pack in quite a bit during my initial day trip, but I will admit to coming back for a longer, weekend trip as well. I might’ve also mixed in some travels from past visits to the area. I will neither confirm nor deny. The bottom line is Lewis County occupies a beautiful part of the state and an important spot in my heart. I will never tire of visiting the area and enjoying all it has to offer. I hope you’re able to do the same!

Until next time – Safe travels!

SPOTIFY PLAYLIST – Some tunes to accompany you on your Lewis County adventure

• The Secret Sun – Jesse Harris (from The Secret Sun)
• These Wheels – Gabe Dixon (from Turns to Gold)
• Closer to Fine – Brandi Carlile, Catherine Carlile (from Barbie The Album)
• So Familiar – Steve Martin, Edie Brickell (from So Familiar)
• All the Lilacs in Ohio – John Hiatt, Jerry Douglas (from Leftover Feelings)
• Gettin’ Happy – Dolly Parton (from Love Is Like A Butterfly)
• Buckets of Rain – Redbird (from Redbird)
• The Old North Woods – Béla Fleck (from My Bluegrass Heart)
• The Imperial March (Darth Vader’s Theme) – John Williams, London Symphony Orchestra (from Star Wars The Empire Strikes Back)
• The Tale of Mr. Morton – Skee-Lo (from School House Rock! Rocks)
• Wildflowers – Tom Petty (from Wildflowers)
• I Was Made For Sunny Days – The Weepies, Deb Talan, Steven Tannen (from Be My Thrill)
• Driving Without Purpose – Ylvis (from Stories From Norway: Northug)
• Huff and Puff – Janeen Brady (from Standin’ Tall, Vol. 6: Happiness)
• Training Montage – The Mountain Goats (from Bleed Out)
• Carry on Wayward Son – Kansas (from Leftoverture)
• Come Sail Away – Styx (from The Grand Illusion)
• Any Way You Want It – Journey (from Departure)
• You Really Got Me – Van Halen (from Van Halen)
• Stone Cold – Rainbow (from Straight Between The Eyes)
• Humble & Kind – Tim McGraw (from Damn Country Music)
• Linger – Jenny Slate (from Marcel the Shell With Shoes On (Unplugged))

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