¡Hola! About a year ago, I visited sunny Puerto Vallarta and it was amazing. The landscapes, the culture, the food – everything was spectacular and I was looking forward to returning someday. I wasn’t planning on returning quite this soon, but when the opportunity arose, who was I to ignore it? My friend had been … Read more I Ate the State Special Edition – Puerto Vallarta: THE RETURN
I love flowers. I love them in gardens, in markets and in vases on my table. I love them on a train, I love them in the rain… Their colors, shapes and endless varieties never fail to make me happy. Throw in thousands of acres of flowers along with beautiful shorelines, stunning mountain ranges and … Read more I Ate the State – Skagit County
About a year ago, I visited sunny Puerto Vallarta and it was amazing. The landscapes, the culture, the food – everything was spectacular and I was looking forward to returning someday. I wasn’t planning on returning quite this soon, but when the opportunity arose, who was I to ignore it? My friend had been planning on visiting the area with her sister, but since she was unable to get away, I joined the adventure in her place. Sun-soaked beaches, art-packed streets and delicious margaritas? Bring it on!
~ For a look at last year’s Puerto Vallarta trip – my first ever to Mexico – check out the adventures HERE. ~
Getting an incredibly early start on our day of departure (5:45am!) put us in Puerto Vallarta around 2:30pm. It was perfect as it allowed for a solid amount of time to check into our condo and take care of the necessary “errands” for the week. (i.e. Purchasing tequila, snacks, ice, coffee, etc. You know – The necessities.) That said, getting to the airport in time for a 5:45am flight wasn’t conducive to any sort of worthwhile, preparatory rest. I was fighting off yet another cold (still lingering from my recent Scottish holiday adventures) and my two hours of sleep didn’t really cut the mustard. To say I arrived in Puerto Vallarta a little out of sorts was an understatement.
Lack of sleep is detrimental to many things; cognitive skills and memory being two such items. These abilities are required for activities such as filling out important immigration forms, carrying on intelligible conversations with foreign officials and remembering ATM pin numbers. Luckily, I was able to successfully navigate the first two obstacles, lack of sleep be damned. The swift recollection of my ATM pin, however, was an entirely different and sad matter…
As was the case with our last adventure, we waited to procure our Mexican pesos until arrival in Puerto Vallarta. While waiting in line to use the ATM, patting myself on the back for appearing mostly composed while entering the country, a thought suddenly struck; like a bolt of lightning, in fact. OMG – WHAT IS MY PIN NUMBER??
For the record, I have never forgotten my pin number. Additionally, I know my debit card and several credit card numbers by heart. The card I’d planned on using was the one I use every day – with my pin number. EVERY. DAY. Yet, as I stood there, mind blank and fuzzy, I couldn’t be exactly sure of the precise collection of pin numbers or their order. I totally panicked.
Still panicking, it was my turn at the ATM. I approached, palms sweating (which could’ve just been the crazy, afternoon heat) and pulled out my debit card. My mind was racing with possible number combinations and my hand was attempting to auto-recall the pattern on the number pad. While I was fairly certain I remembered the numbers, I couldn’t be entirely sure. To quote Pee-Wee Herman in Pee-Wee’s Big Adventure, “The mind plays tricks on you – You play tricks back…”
After two failed attempts, I stepped away from the ATM. I knew I only had a limited number of tries before the bank blocked my card, so I thought I’d let things settle for a while. Perhaps a bit of rest, reflection and beach gazing would do the trick. Thankfully, my friend knew I was good for it and since she had apparently remembered her pin number, we were able to pay for the taxi to our condo. We were both convinced I’d be able to sort this out later in the afternoon and off to enjoy the day we went.
I could get used to this…
Beautiful flowers on the deck with the Los Muertos Pier in the background
After a fairly short cab ride to our condo, La Palapa, in the heart of Old Town Puerto Vallarta (aka: the Romantic Zone), we checked in and surveyed the scene. Last year, we stayed a little closer to the main part of the Malecon, but this time we were more in the center of the Old Town and directly on the expansive Los Muertos Beach. I loved where we stayed last year and would probably choose it for my next stay, but being directly on the beach and all of its activity was really quite lovely. (In all fairness, last year’s spot was also close to the beach, but you had to walk all the way across a 10-foot wide walkway (the Malecon) to get there. The horror.)
Scene of many margarita mixings…
A lovely rooftop pool
The condo living room – complete with a very firm, concrete-base sofa!
My spacious room overlooking the beach
A very roomy deck to hang out on…
Dolphins playing in the rooftop pool!
After we each claimed our respective rooms in the condo and got the lay of things, we set out to take care of important errands. Since I wasn’t feeling quite up to “adventure mode,” my main plans were to spend time resting and relaxing, living out my foodie dreams and maybe getting in a bit of writing. I’d been envisioning myself, ala Hemingway, enjoying the tranquil grace of the Old Town and soaking up the Arts scene. Throw in a spa treatment or two, some good tequila and a few beautiful sunsets and my time in Puerto Vallarta would be perfect. (All of which gloriously transpired.)
Procuring the essentials is of the utmost importance for a well-enjoyed holiday. A few places to help pave the way towards a relaxing and rejuvenating stay in Puerto Vallarta:
First things, first. Tequila is important. Good tequila is even more important. Don’t get caught in the tourist-trap tequila shops on and around the Malecon. Instead, head to Vinos América where the prices and selection are much better – and there’s air-conditioning! We visited the location in the Old Town area. A few times… We also found a pre-mixed tamarind margarita mix which was fantastic! I’ve always loved the flavor of tamarind, but had never tried it in a margarita. I’ve been unable to find it at home, but will be buying some tamarind concentrate in the near future to try and recreate the magic.
Just as good tequila is important, good coffee holds equal status. (In my world, anyway.) There are several coffee shops in the Old Town area, but being able to make a great cup of coffee first thing in the morning is an absolute requirement. Sitting out on the deck, watching the ocean, contemplating life… what a way to start the day. Vallarta Factory not only has delicious food, but they carry a great selection of ground and whole bean coffee, sourced from the local mountains. And if that weren’t enough, the adjacent chocolate shop also carries one of the most delicious creations known to the planet: Caramel-coated, roasted cacao beans. I became hooked on them after my last trip and have been dreaming about them ever since. Suffice to say, I brought back SEVERAL bags…
Many delicious chocolates to enjoy!
So close to my dream…
Cigars aren’t my thing, but they roll them right in the store!
The holy grail. Caramel coated roasted cacao beans… One of the most delicious things EVER created.
The Farmacia Guadalajara in the Old Town is a large drug store and has everything you need in the way of snacks, sundries and more. I’m still excited about my Frida Kahlo Aqua Net score from last year’s trip…
Keeping a bag of ice in the freezer is important for so many hot-weather reasons. OXXO mini-marts are virtually everywhere in Puerto Vallarta and it’s likely one will be located close to wherever you’re staying. Stop by for bagged ice, sodas, chips, ice cream bars and more!
Pedicures are good for what ails the tired, airport-dashing feet and a fine addition to any restful vacation. The staff at the Wow! Facial Bar, just up from our condo, was very accommodating and gave me an excellent pedicure. (They had a very interesting facial masque treatment I might try next time…) I did have to return the next day for a touch-up, buy they very graciously took care of everything. They didn’t even want me to pay for the touch-up!
If you were stuck with someone reclining their seat in front of you for the entire flight, work out your stress at Spa Holistic. Located directly on the beach/Malecon, their staff is excellent and the prices were amazing. You could also go the cheaper route and hit up the roaming foot massage troop working the beach, but an actual spa massage seemed like a better idea to me…
After stocking up on essentials and enjoying a couple of very tasty tamarind margaritas on the deck, it was time to think about dinner. Located downstairs in our condo and directly on the beach was the famous La Palapa restaurant and bar. Built in 1957 and the first restaurant on the beach, La Palapa is still owned by the same family and remains an icon in the Romantic Zone. If you’re looking for fancier dining, directly on the beach, check out the scene at La Palapa. They offer breakfast, lunch and dinner in their dining room or directly on the beach in their private seating area. They also host weddings and events and we watched them set up at least two beach weddings during our stay. Granted, there were only a few nights with sunsets, but the weather cooperated during the ceremonies and no one was rained out. Dreamy.
Dinner service at the private La Palapa beach area
One of the beach weddings we saw during our visit
They had to put up the umbrellas for this one…
Since we weren’t feeling terribly fancy after our long travel day and running of errands, we decided to keep it casual that first night. (And most nights thereafter) Since it was Restaurant Week during our visit, we’d put together a list of potential eateries to investigate. (Note: Restaurant week is always longer than a week and this year ran from May 15th thru June 10th) Many cities feature restaurant weeks, but if you haven’t had the opportunity to participate, they’re a great way to enjoy pricier restaurants for more a reasonable cost. They usually feature a few prix fixe meals which offer a good overview of their full menu. On the list was Joe Jack’s Fish Shack, located a few blocks from our condo. Their menu looked tasty and it was a short walk for weary travelers… Perfect combo! The even bigger bonus was just how tasty the menu was. Everything we tried was delicious. The passion fruit margaritas were amazing and I would eat the Shrimp and Avocado Tostadas Louie every day of my life. Every day! We definitely returned for more during our stay…
The well-appointed bar at Joe Jack’s
A city view from the open-terrace upstairs seating area
Chile dusted veggies – Delicious!
One of the most delicious drinks I’ve ever had – The passion fruit margarita!
Shrimp & Avocado Shrimp Louie FOR LIFE!
Mmmm… Fish tacos…
‘Lots of cool vintage Mexican movie posters at Joe Jack’s
Lovely dining at Joe Jack’s
Delicious cod fritters
There are so many stellar restaurants to try in Puerto Vallarta. The list is impressive and you’d need a very long stay to make your way through it, but it sure would be a delicious journey. We didn’t visit nearly as many spots as I’d hoped, but we made a noble effort. I guess the eyes of vacation planning are sometimes bigger than the stomach of time…
Here’s a short list of the places we visited and hoped to visit on this adventure. I suppose the good thing about not hitting every spot is having something to look forward to on the next trip! Because there will definitely be another trip…
We visited renowned chef, Thierry Blouet’s Café des Artistes during our stay and it was spectacular. The atmosphere and service were excellent – minus a small banana allergy mix-up – and the food was truly delicious. Their famous Cream of Prawn and Pumpkin soup (ladled from a carved out pumpkin) was fantastic and the ‘Catch of the Day’ was wonderful. (And I am kicking myself for not writing down the fish. It was delicate, white, flaky… Sigh…) And the desserts – Yowsa!
At least one of us wasn’t allergic to bananas…
Delicious lavender macrons
A deconstructed fig and berry cheesecake. WOW!
This fish was amazing! WHY didn’t I write it down??
Their famous cream of pumpkin and prawn soup. Delicious!
Classy dining at Cafe des Artistes
Directly next door to La Palapa, you’ll find Si Senor Beach. Quite handy to have great dining options just downstairs. The regular menu was somewhat pricey, but we opted for the Restaurant Week selections and weren’t disappointed. Interestingly, the margaritas we ordered ending up being the same price as our entire meal! (Pro tip: Don’t worry about getting the fancy tequila unless you’re going to sip it. Mid-shelf tequila for margaritas is absolutely acceptable.)
This tres leches cake was fantastic!
A very expensive, but very tasty margarita…
Delicious tortilla soup with fresh chicharrones
A very delicious shrimp dish
Looking out towards the pier from Si Senor’s dining room
We had a very earnest guest…
Situated on the Cuale River and featuring regular Jazz shows, Le Bistro has been high on my list on both visits – and it remains! They serve breakfast, lunch and dinner and feature fresh seafood along with pasta and pizza on their dinner menu.
Appropriately perched on a cliff overlooking the ocean,Le Kliff features an amazing menu and is one of Puerto Vallarta’s most exclusive dining locales. While we didn’t get to visit on this excursion, my friend has dined there on past visits and speaks very highly of the experience.
Di Vino Dante features local cuisine with Mexican wine pairings. Born and raised in Puerto Vallarta, the owner was studying Fine Art in Vancouver B.C. when she also began studying wine. She returned home to showcase her knowledge and has been featuring Mexican and Latin American wines and cuisine at her intimate wine bar in the Old Town.
Nicksan features the very cool fusion of Mexican and Japanese cuisine. Sashimi tostadas? They’ve got ‘em! Chiles stuffed with spicy crab and sesame sauce? Bring it on!!
Renowned local chef, Joel Ornelas, whose resume includes apprenticeships at Café des Artistes and Le Bistro as well as several well-reviewed European restaurants, puts his own touch on the classics at Tintoque. Their “Creative Menu” features fresh seafood and local produce and changes daily. Located at Vallarta Marina, near the Hotel Zone.
Tucked in along a side street near the Malecon, Florios specializes in a tasty blend of Italian and Argentinian inspired cuisines. Pasta and meat – together forever!
La Bodeguita del Medio was very crowded when we stopped by, but we stood outside and listened to the live Cuban music and I promised myself to try again next time. The Puerto Vallarta location is an offshoot of the same club Hemingway spent so much time at in Havana. (Which is still there!) Located at the heart of the Malecon.
Barcelona Tapas was on our list as my friend had visited before and raved about it. I love a good tapas. Who doesn’t?? We didn’t make it there together, but I will definitely be stopping in on my next visit.
Jorge’s Hideaway Shrimp Shack is as advertised, most definitely “hidden.” Tucked back into an Old Town neighborhood, you could easily mistake it for a small home. (Which it used to be!) My friend was on a quest for the best coconut shrimp and Jorge’s did not disappoint. Everything we had was fresh and delicious and I’ll definitely return on my next visit.
Delicious coconut shrimp
A homey setting at Jorge’s
Sometimes you just need an ice cold cerveza…
This shrimp dish was SO fresh and tasty!
We were feeling peckish after a hot day of walking around and arrived a little early for dinner hours at The Swedes Bar & Bistro. They were very accommodating, however, and we ended up with the whole place to ourselves for dinner! Featuring local ingredients prepared with a European flare, everything we tried was delicious. The lobster bisque was a standout highlight for me. YUM!
The most delicious lobster bisque
Chicken breast stuffed with provolone, artichoke and sun-dried tomato – with mushroom risotto and a tarragon cream sauce. Yum!
Tucked into a tiny spot in the Old Town, Tacos Revolucion serves delicious tacos of all varieties and absolutely delicious tortas. They also have “Volcanoes” and “Cakes” – both savory dishes – which I will absolutely be trying on my next visit. I also didn’t get to try the “Meat in Your Juice,” which is described as Beef cooked in its juice with bacon, green sauce, scallion, beans from the pot and handmade tortillas. Guadalajara style. WHAT??? #Heavenly
And just a few more places that will remain on my list until next visit:
El Arrayan – Traditional and contemporary Mexican cuisine in the heart of the Malecon scene.
El Dorado – Located directly on the beach in the Old Town/Romantic Zone area, featuring modern Mexican cuisine.
Located at the Grand Miramar resort with a striking, panoramic view of the city, Eugeniafeatures local seafood and produce in an upscale presentation.
Perched high in the hills above the Old Town, Hacienda San Angel Gourmet features elevated Mexican cuisine and an amazing view. It is also high on my list to actually stay in one of the dreamy suites at Hacienda San Angel, once owned by Richard Burton. (Note: Due to kitchen maintenance, there is no dinner service for August and September, 2019)
Meridia Grill features contemporary Mexican cuisine in the heart of traditional Old Town. Duck tacos!
I attempted to visit the trendy La Romantica Churros & Café Bar a couple of times during my visit. It was right around the corner from the condo and featured delicious churros, Mexican hot chocolate and coffee. What more could a girl need? Sadly, on the first attempt, they weren’t opening for another hour and on the second try, they were closed for a two-week vacation! Alas, it just wasn’t in the cards and I’ll have to hit them up next time. If I have to camp out in front, I will…
And not to be forgotten, here are a few favorites from my last Puerto Vallarta visit:
Featuring family recipes, El Mole de Jovita is a must-stop if you’re looking for the rich, addictive flavors of authentic mole. My favorites were the Mole Jovita, pumpkin and green moles. I’ll be back!
Pancho’s Takos is amazing. Serving slow-roasted meats, prepared on flame-licked spits, Pancho’s is a must for any taco lover. And don’t forget to add their spectacular sauces and accompaniments to your meal. (Pro tip: Get there early. The line at Pancho’s gets crazy long in the evening!)
For the record, I still can’t believe I didn’t make it to Mariscos Cisneros on this trip. This place is delicious and I can’t count the number of times I’ve daydreamed of their fish tacos and deep-fried, cheese-stuffed jalapenos. Whhhyyyyy???
In keeping with one of my major vacation objectives, alarm clocks had NO place in my morning and getting up when I felt like getting up was paramount. Enjoying coffee on the deck, watching the day come alive at the Pier at Los Muertos and knowing I had many more days of this was a completely sublime feeling. Most of the mornings during our stay were overcast, but as I make my home in Seattle, what’s a little cloud cover? Good coffee and knowing I have no commitments for the day is more than enough to make me shout a very happy GOOD MORNING to the world. To make things even more enjoyable, my wackylovely friend decided she didn’t want the room with the amazing ocean view – complete with the soothing sound of waves. I guess the waves don’t lull everyone to sleep like they do me… I’ll take that ocean view room – no problem! Add in that I was able to eventually work out the forgotten PIN situation and my vacation mode officially set in. (Granted, it required a few long phone calls to my bank and a bit of logistical finagling, but whatever – cold hard cash was mine to spend! And a hearty thanks to my travel buddy for humoring the situation and helping out…)
I don’t often have the chance to enjoy a leisurely breakfast, but vacation is the perfect time to live out such fantasies. There are so many fabulous breakfast and brunch spots in Puerto Vallarta, it was hard to decide where to start the day. It’s a rough job, but someone’s gotta do it. You’re welcome. A few of the delicious early morning (more like noonish) spots we hit up:
The aforementioned Vallarta Factory was our first stop on the vacation breakfast train. I was excited to return and had vowed to try something new on this visit, but I failed. The menu is great, but the Poblano omelet I had on the last trip was loudly calling my name – and I listened. SO good!
I got this poblano omelet last time – and I will likely get it next time! SO delicious.
The Pancake House is pretty spectacular and they do indeed serve delicious pancakes and French toast. That said, their Chilaquiles with Verde sauce was out of this world! We came back a couple times during our stay.
The wilds of the Pancake House
Delicious breakfast starters
They’ve got waffles, too!
Eggs Benedict at the Pancake House
Amazing chilaquiles in the dappled sunlight of the Pancake House
Barra Light offers delicious breakfast and lunch dishes featuring organic and locally sourced ingredients – and some pretty great cappuccinos. As they were located just around the corner from our condo, we stopped in quite a few times for both breakfast and lunch.
I *needed* this delicious cappuccino…
I also needed this delicious salmon lox bagel sandwich.. with jalapenos and chipotle creme. NEEDED IT.
Salud Superfood is a standout in the area for organic and vegetarian dishes. We visited on our last trip and the food was excellent. I will be back on my next visit as well!
The Green Eggs and Bacon sandwich is delicious!
Words of wisdom on the walls of Salud Superfood…
Café San Angel was also a feature of my last visit, but as their migas were so delicious, there was no way I was missing a repeat engagement. They didn’t fail to impress and maybe next time I’ll branch out and try something new. Maybe.
Delicious iced coffee. Yes, please!
The room for the ladies….
Migas at last!!
Located a block off the Malecon, the Coexist Bistro was the last stop on our vacation breakfast train and positively delicious – And air-conditioned! Set on the ground floor of the very cool Hotel Rio, the dishes were imaginative and well-prepared. I’ll definitely be hitting them up on my next visit. Also, did I mention they have air-conditioning?? #Luxurious
Modern dining with a pool
This egg dish was sweet and savory all at once and very tasty!
Mimosas and daisies = Lovely!
On my last visit, I was so impressed and inspired by the amazing artwork and music all around the city and vowed to more deeply experience the scene during this stay. Every day, after fortifying ourselves with a delicious breakfast, we wandered around, taking it all in, experiencing the vibrancy of the city. Everywhere we looked were beautifully handcrafted arts and crafts and everywhere we listened, strains of live music. It was a feast for the eyes, ears and soul, to be sure. I can’t imagine the creative spirit ever at a loss for inspiration in this city.
The iconic seahorse statue at the end of the beach
That’s quite a chair! Amazing art up and down the Malecon.
Puerto Vallarta loves their seahorses
There are beautiful murals all around town
Shhhhhh – they can hear you!
Beautiful displays of culture and tradition on the Malecon
Saturday evening concert in the public square
Beautiful mosaics around town
The list of artistic possibilities in Puerto Vallarta is expansive and full of variety. What I’ve experienced thus far is just a small cross-section of what can be found. I look forward to continuing my artistic adventures on future trips. In the meantime, a few of the spots we were able to enjoy on this visit:
My friend introduced me to Enrique on our last visit and I was happy to again visit him at the shop he manages, Muy Guapo. Located in the Old Town, Muy Guapo features unique antiques and quirky, funky art and jewelry from around Mexico. Enrique is also a fantastic artist and occasionally has some of his own work at the shop.
Enrique’s sister, Marisa, is also an artist and regularly displays her paintings at the Cuale Island Flea Market. She features lovely scenes of local life and I was happy to return home with a couple of her miniatures featuring nearby Yelapa. (Marisa’s stall is located in the shade of the Insurgentes Street Bridge pedestrian underpass) Walking along the peaceful Cuale River and winding in and out of the artist stalls and banyan trees is an excellent way to spend the afternoon.
Scenes from Yelapa
Marisa’s artwork in the Cuale Island Flea Market
The artist herself! (Photo credit: P. Pudinski)
My friend was trying to track down a local marionette artist while we were in town, but was sadly unsuccessful. We were, however, able to successfully add to our glassware collections with a stop at Mundo de Cristal in the Old Town. They only had a few pieces left of the pattern I’d brought back on my last trip, but I snatched them up and my collection grows. I can now serve even more tamarind margaritas at my next party!
We also returned to spectacular tile and ceramics shop, Mundo de Azulejosin the Old Town. My friend wanted to custom order an address plaque for her home. Since her home is blue, she decided on “La Casa Azul” with lettering appropriately in blue. Unfortunately, after they fired the plaque, the paint looked green. Something on the list for her next visit to Puerto Vallarta, I guess…
On my last visit, I brought back a beautiful hand-blown glass miniature of my bass guitar. On this visit, we again hit up Carlos Rosas with a few more requests. Additionally, due to a freak dusting accident, the neck of my bass broke! (Broken bass necks are actually a bit of a personal curse. Two actual bass necks and now a glass one… Eeesh.) Through our email communications and pictures being sent, Carlos came up with amazing renditions of both mine and my friend’s dogs as well as a new rendition of my bass and the most spectacular Hammond organ piece for my friend, Joe’s birthday. And he very kindly fixed my broken bass, which I’d brought along just in case it was repairable… Now I have a backup! Carlos is no longer located in the Old Town and now sets up shop on Wednesdays near the cruise ship harbor with many of the local artists. (Our friend, Marisa included.) Definitely make the effort to find his booth!
Finley the Beagle, Joe’s Hammond Organ and my Bass – Mi familia!
The real deal and the replica – can’t even tell them apart!
On my last visit, I found a couple of musical notes created in the Huichol tradition. I love them and was hoping to find a couple more, but none of the shops I investigated had them. Luckily, my friend happened upon Colores Magicos in her own shopping excursions and got their email for me. Through a series of emails and a visit to the shop, they graciously arranged for a local artist to make me a couple of notes during my stay. Cool!! I left it up to the artist to come up with the designs and I picked them up on my last day in town. (After the artist raced into town to get them to me before I left!) I love them! If you stop by, ask for Carlos or Olga and tell them the lady with the musical notes sent you – they’re awesome!
I have a weakness for chunky rings and found the most beautiful larimar ring at the Cassandra Shaw gallery in the Old Town. She is also a painter and animal lover and features many of her paintings in the shop. I love the llama!
I love this guy!
My beautiful new ring from Cassandra Shaw
As my friends are aware (especially those who’ve helped me pack to move), I have a nerdy weakness for glassware, mugs, teacups, shot glasses, etc. If you can drink out of it, I probably have one. On a related note, I’m particularly fond of the You Are Here and Been There series from Starbucks. I have several from around the world and now I have one from Puerto Vallarta. Hooray!
There is much music to be found around the city. Live music in restaurants and theatres, dance music in the Malecon and Old Town night clubs and scores of roaming musicians around town and on the Malecon. Stop and listen, go inside and enjoy a set – Take in all the amazing sounds the city has to offer. And keep an eye out for seasoned bassists roaming the beach, waiting to play you a tune…
Bass parking only! This is by far one of my favorite shots ever…
I found the owner! Major props to this guy for schlepping that bass around the beach in long sleeves and pants. That’s one hot gig!
You never know what you’re going to find or what amazing piece of art will call to you as you wander the cobblestone streets and artist stalls along the Cuale. Allow plenty of time to investigate the shops and talk to the artists – and be sure to stay hydrated. There’s nothing wrong with soaking in the sun for a couple hours and returning to the comfort of an air-conditioned hotel room to cool off and get rejuvenated. Of course, it’s also a good idea to throw in a couple of margaritas on the deck and maybe a bit of homemade guacamole, pico de gallo and chips… That’s just good sense. And then resume your meandering, refueled and ready to explore!
So many amazing colors in Puerto Vallarta
Not your average shop decor
The banyan trees on Cuale River Island are truly amazing
If these trees could talk… And it seems like they should be able to!
The foot bridge on Cuale Island
Sometimes you just can’t be bothered to take the stairs…
When not wandering aimlessly around town, there are many places to add to your sightseeing list. Stick around Puerto Vallarta proper or hop on a tour bus or water taxi to the outlying areas of the city. There are so many amazing places to see and things to do. A mere week or so isn’t nearly enough, but you’ll have an excellent excuse to come back soon. Perhaps the following year! Some of my favorite places to visit so far:
Last visit, we took a water taxi from the Pier at Los Muertos to visit the neighboring village of Yelapa. We’d planned on making another trip, but as the weather was sometimes a bit grey and misty, we decided against a choppy boat ride. I fell in love with Yelapa and would love to return for a stay in the sleepy coastal burb, but will have to wait until next time. The water taxis also stop at other villages along the way and I plan to investigate those on my next journey as well.
All aboard for Yelapa!
These guys are getting a free ride…
A few of the fishing boats bobbing in the water next to the pier
An integral part of the beach scene for tourists, fishermen and pelicans alike!
On the way to Yelapa, look out for the rocky arches at Los Arcos Marine Park. I’d love to do some snorkeling in the area and get closer to the arches. Next time!
If you’d like to admire the beautiful architecture of Puerto Vallarta’s local parishes, two beautiful examples to seek out while walking around the Malecon are the Parish of Our Lady of Guadalupeand a little further down, the Church of Our Lady of the Refuge. Both hold regular services and are open to visit during the day.
Rising above the Malecon, Our Lady of Guadalupe
The sun breaking through on a beautiful afternoon
Inside the parish
A little further down the Malecon is Our Lady of the Refuge
Along the way to the Saturday Market…
While wandering around the banyan lined banks of the Cuale, we happened upon the Cuale Cultural Center. A beautiful group of buildings with lovely landscaping and scenery, it serves as a center for all manner of Arts workshops and hosts showings and performances. There was nothing going on the day we visited, but I look forward to checking out the scene on future visits. (Note: When we visited the area, it looked like they were still in operation, but their website doesn’t look current. I hope they’re still holding events…)
Tribute to Night of the Iguana on Cuale Island
Mural on Cuale Island
Tribute to director John Huston on Cuale Island
Center for the performing arts on Cuale Island
Homes perched above Cuale Island
Looking out on Puerto Vallarta from La Iguana Bridge
Sculpture found on Cuale Island
The steps of La Iguana Bridge on Cuale Island
Heading down to Cuale Island from the Malecon
The banyans of Cuale Island
There are many outdoor markets selling a variety of food and goods running throughout the year and all around town. As we did last year, one of the first places we hit up was the Mercado Emiliano Zapata produce stand were we bought fresh vegetables, dried hibiscus flowers, hot sauces and more. (Pro tip: Wash all of the produce off as soon as you bring it back to wherever you’re staying. If you don’t, you’re likely to wake up to an army of tiny gnats marching around your counter-tops. Very common, but easily addressed by a thorough washing.)
Tamarind margaritas with fresh pico and guacamole. Made by hand with the ingredients we picked up at the market.
And excellent place to stock up on veggies and more!
Well, I had to get them… They made me laugh every day…
All this for just under $10!!
There are a couple other outdoor markets we attempted to visit, but were sad to learn were closed for the season. The Olas Atlas Farmers Market, also known as the Old Farmers Market is open on Saturdays from November through April and is very worth getting up early to investigate. (9:30am to 2pm)
Since we were unable to visit the Saturday market in the Old Town, we decide to walk over to the Saturday Market. Maybe walking on a sweltering hot day wasn’t the greatest of plans as it ended up being closer to the Hotel Zone and what felt like 327 miles away. At least. That said, it was a very interesting walk through the local neighborhoods and we ended up getting to experience a very local market scene. Clothing, both new and used, tools, produce, baked goods, little taco stands – you name it, it was at the market. However, as interesting as it was to walk through the neighborhoods, it was just as interesting to take an air-conditioned cab ride back to the Old Town. But for the record, I got in A LOT of steps that day on the ol’ Fitbit – and probably sweated out a few pounds on top of it. SCORE!
One of the things we’d been planning on checking out were the local foodie tours and maybe a tequila tour or two. However, since we were both feeling pretty exhausted from all that wandering around town and walking on the beaches… and making deck margaritas… it never really worked out. Oops. That said, I am confident I’ll be returning soon and it gives me more foodie adventures to look forward to in the future. Some of the tours that intrigued me:
Vallarta Eats offers several tours that piqued my interest. Led by local food enthusiasts, each tour lasts a few hours and showcases the best of Puerto Vallarta cuisine. I was most interested in the Untouristed, Tasting Vallarta and Craft Brew & Bites A couple of friends we made on last year’s trip went on the Signature Taco Tour and raved about it. Next time, Puerto Vallarta… Next time.
We only got a couple of these, but this one was spectacular…
There is no one way to visit or enjoy Puerto Vallarta. Lounge on the beach every day and make homemade guacamole and pico de gallo to enjoy with scratch margaritas on your deck. Eat at all the amazing restaurants and imbibe on elaborate craft cocktails. Hit up the night clubs and late-night Malecon scene and dance into the night. Take a water taxi to the tiny inlets outside of the city and enjoy a burro ride around the village. Get daring and go diving – either in the sea or sky! (Well, parasailing anyway…) Write, dream, contemplate the world and what you can do to make it better… There are so many amazing adventures to be experienced in this beautiful city.
Catch your own fish…
Take to the sky!
Whenever I think of Puerto Vallarta, I recall the spectacular sunsets, the leisurely walks on the beach, the charm of watching the nightly dinner service under the lantern-lit beach umbrellas and the absolute come-as-you-are ease of the Old Town. (Unless it’s Café Des Artistes or one of the upscale hotels, where I recommend kicking it up a fancy notch…) In the years to come, I will always keep a bit of Puerto Vallarta warmth and sunshine tucked away to pull out on those grey Seattle days. This city is now a part of my soul and I hope to experience many more beautiful moments within its borders, whether experienced a year from now or ten.
In closing, if you’re thinking of visiting Mexico, I highly recommend checking out this absolutely lovely city. It’s full of beauty, the locals are welcoming, the Arts scene is rich and vibrant – and there are an unbelievable bounty of tastes, sounds and experiences to sample. It’s a paradise on so many levels! Hey, and no one got pooped on by a Magnificent Frigatebird this time, so that was an extra vacation win!
Until next time – Eat the state!
A room with QUITE a view…
A beautiful night…
I Ate the State SPECIAL EDITION: Puerto Vallarta – The Return! Click HERE to check out the Spotify playlist.
Escape (The Pina Colada Song) – Rupert Holmes (from Partners in Crime)
Steal Away – Robbie Dupree (from Robbie Dupree)
Tequila Sunrise – Eagles (from Desperado)
Batida Diferente – Herbie Mann (from Latin Forever)
A Horse with No Name – America (from America)
Do It Again – Steely Dan (from Can’t Buy A Thrill)
Coconut – Harry Nilsson (from Nilsson Schmilsson)
Mambo Sangria – Caj Tjader (from Too Late Now)
Sicily – Chick Corea (from Friends)
Biggest Part of Me – Ambrosia (from One Eighty)
The Boys of Summer – Don Henley (from Building the Perfect Beast)
Hold the Line – Toto (from Toto)
Love Will Find A Way – Pablo Cruise (from Worlds Away)
Danza de Gardenias – Natalia Lafourcade (from Danza de Gardenias)
Dreamers – Judy Collins (from Dreamers)
Águas de Março – Antônio Carlos Jobim (from Antônio Carlos Jobim: Finest Hour)
Come Sail Away – Styx (from The Grand Illusion)
Still the One – Orleans (from Waking and Dreaming)
Sailing – Christopher Cross (from Christopher Cross)
Corcovado – Quiet Nights of Quiet Stars – Stan Getz, João Gilberto (from Getz/Gilberto)
Drift Away – Dobie Gray (from Dobie Gray – His Very Best)
Babylon Sisters – Steely Dan (from Gaucho)
Samba De Orfeu – Cal Tjader (from Soul Sauce)
Ride Like the Wind – Christopher Cross (from Christopher Cross)
Reelin’ in the Years – Steely Dan (from Can’t Buy A Thrill)
I love flowers. I love them in gardens, in markets and in vases on my table. I love them on a train, I love them in the rain… Their colors, shapes and endless varieties never fail to make me happy. Throw in thousands of acres of flowers along with beautiful shorelines, stunning mountain ranges and fruitful farmlands and I’m never leaving! All of these things – and much more – are what amazing Skagit County brings to this edition of I Ate the State. Let’s go!
Similar to the surrounds of recently covered, Snohomish County, the Skagit County area is generally comprised of two, fairly distinct sides. The coastal area showcases lovely inlets and islands while the mountainous region takes on the North Cascades and Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest. Both join together in cradling the amazing agricultural bounty in the middle section of the county. Skagit County is another one of Washington State’s great microcosms and a fully-stocked vacation destination for the ages. It was an absolute pleasure to explore the area and I was continually amazed by the near limitless diversity packed into its borders.
As I live in western Washington, getting to Skagit County is relatively easy. Interstate-5 provides a main route through the county with many side routes running parallel. Taking SR-9 up through Arlington to SR-20 or Pioneer Highway from Snohomish County to Conway are both great alternatives – as is SR-530 to SR-20 if you’re coming up from Darrington. In the summer months, it’s a beautiful drive from the eastern side of the state over either SR-20 (North Cascades Scenic Byway – part of the Cascade Loop) or US-2. There are indeed many beautiful options available for your journey into Skagit County.
One thing I try not to take for granted as I zip my way up the main thoroughfare of I-5 are all of the options just off the freeway. Often times I’m single-mindedly heading for a particular destination and don’t pay heed to all of the great places along the way. The I-5 corridor as it heads up to and through Skagit County is certainly no exception – along with the various side routes. A few options to explore as you begin your Skagit County adventure:
As agriculture is the #1 industry in Skagit County, there are an appropriately large variety of farms to visit, with many being located close to the I-5 corridor. The Festival of Family Farms (Oct 5 – 6) is a great way to check out the bounty. Many of the farms also have seasonal stands and barns located just off I-5. If they’re open, don’t be afraid to stop. You never know what variety of amazingly fresh and inexpensive produce you’ll find. (Not to mention fresh cider, honey, etc.) For restaurateurs wanting to take advantage of the expansive boon, the Puget Sound Food Hub Farmers Cooperative is an excellent way to purchase fresh goods directly from the growers.
If you’re like me and have a strange obsession with taking photos of old barns, hit up the Heritage Barn Mobile Tour and Map for a fun, self-guided tour. Skagit County is a gold mine of beautiful old barns, farm equipment and scenery.
Keeping with the agricultural vibe, take Exit 218 off I-5 and stop in at Bertelsen Winery. (You can see it from I-5!) They’re open Wednesdays thru Sundays for tastings and regularly host music and events.
Cool old barns everywhere you look in Skagit County!
Who doesn’t love a big old red barn?
While Skagit County falls only 21st out of 39 counties as ranked by size, it packs quite a punch with its list of things to see and do. Since there was no way I could fit everything I wanted to see into a weekend, I took a few beautiful weekend days to experience the area. I still found it difficult to see everything on my list, but I feel pretty good about the breadth and variety of my adventures. Let’s get things started in the lovely, western section of Skagit County on Fidalgo Island, in the coastal town of Anacortes.
While still allowing time for random ramblings, I took I-5 to get to the Anacortes area in the timeliest manner. It was a beautiful morning and perfect for the beginnings of a road trip. I had my coffee, my Skagit County playlist and was ready to make tracks for Anacortes. Did I get caught up along the way, distracted by shiny, roadside attractions? Of course I did… As I said, don’t be afraid to stop as you just never know what delicious treat you might find – or how much money you’ll win to fund your trip!
Off of I-5, I took Exit 230 and headed west on SR-20. This takes you through the Whitney area and on towards Anacortes. If you head in the opposite direction, you’ll be venturing into the mountainous part of the county and into the North Cascades. (We’ll get there a little later in the article.) It’s also the best exit to take for least crowded treks into the daffodil and tulip fields. Seriously, this little exit off I-5 deserves a medal for all the greatness it heralds.
Almost directly off the exit, as you’re heading west on SR-20, look for Skagit’s Own Fish Market on your left. Don’t miss this place! I’ve driven by it so many times over the years and have always wanted to stop – I’m so sad I waited this long! Not only do they have an amazing fresh seafood selection, along with all the desirable accoutrements, they have an excellent offering of seafood cocktails, seafood sandwiches, fresh chowder and more. I hereby swear to stop by this place every time I’m entering or exiting the area. Crab cocktail and lobster rolls WILL be mine!
Skagit’s Own Fish Market – Yum!
Many delicious treats to be found inside…
Okay, okay – I’ll start with the shrimp cocktail…
So much fresh, delicious seafood!
I’ll take one of everything, please.
Fresh crab and halibut!
Shortly before you enter Anacortes proper, you’ll come upon the Swinomish Casino & Lodge, owned and operated by the Swinomish Tribe. The lodge has beautiful views including the Padilla Bay Reserve, the San Juan Islands and Mount Baker and is a great base from which to explore the area. My first port of call that day was supposed to be Anacortes, but since I’d already altered my timeline by stopping at the fish market, I figured why not check out the casino?
I hadn’t budgeted to lose any money at the casino that day, so I was a bit leery of strolling around the place. However, after rationalizing to myself I was only visiting to do some hard-hitting, journalistic research, I peeled out a twenty dollar bill from my wallet and committed to probably losing said twenty dollars.
The lovely Swinomish Casino & Lodge on Padilla Bay
Come to me, Dayna… Have a seat…
Shiny machines trying to lure me in…
It didn’t occur to me to take a picture after I won, but this was my cash cow! Fifty dollars, please!
As I walked around, the flashy slot-machines were doing their best to lure me in, but it wasn’t until I spotted a row of video poker machines that I felt the pull. It is true, I’m a total sucker for video poker machines and I will stop every time I see one, especially since I rarely see them in casinos these days. That said, I also have a limit and if I meet that limit, I must walk away. And in a related fashion, if I double my original investment, I walk away. I will admit to having learned my lesson over the years…
Imagine my glee (and relief) when after playing for only a few minutes, I scored a straight flush and was up fifty dollars! I got a few good pictures, used the loo, and more than doubled my money – all in less than twenty minutes! And with that, I wisely cashed out my winnings and made a beeline for Sporty Spice. (My trusty KIA Sportage) With that short, unplanned visit, I’d funded much of my trip and accomplished some deeply investigative travel journalism. You just never know what you’re going to find when you make a random road-trip stop. Sure, there was a bit of luck involved and I easily could’ve ended up twenty dollars the poorer, but I didn’t. HA! And down the road to Anacortes I continued, fifty dollars the richer…
Also in the vicinity of the Swinomish Casino & Lodge and well worth checking out:
If you’re up for a little light hiking/walking, check out the Padilla Bay shore trail – where the Skagit River meets the Salish Sea. It looks over towards Lummi Island and is a serene way to spend a couple of hours, year-round. Be sure to bring binoculars to get an up-close view of all the birds in the area. (I’ll be covering Lummi Island in my upcoming Whatcom County article – stay tuned!)
Heading into Anacortes proper, you’ll drive past the turnoff towards Deception Pass. If you’ve never been – and even if you have – it’s an area not to be missed. But we’ll be back around this way shortly – time to check out the lovely coastal town of Anacortes in the meantime.
After turning onto Commercial Avenue, the main drag through downtown Anacortes, I headed towards Cap Sante Marina and the Port of Anacortes. Given my enduring dream to own and live on a boat, I always like to wistfully check out the marina scene. (Cap Sante indeed has live-aboard moorage. #LifeGoals) Upon driving into the parking lot, I noted it looked like an event was going on – complete with food trucks and music. Score! The day just kept getting better…
I want to live on a boat!
Play some chess while watching the boats!
Lovely, lovely boats at the Cap Sante Marina…
Pretty sure I could use one of those boats…
Walking towards the marina, it looked like the festivities were being sponsored by Anthony’s at Cap Sante Marina and Anthony’s – The Cabana. They were giving away free chowder and ice cream and the waterfront area was festive with face-painting, balloons and music. Local favorite, Lopez Island Creamery also had a food truck set up for more ice cream options. It was a glorious sunny morning, but not too hot – and not too early to sit at one of the tables lining the waterfront walkway and enjoy my free clam chowder and ice cream. But I still had that fifty dollars burning a hole in my pocket… (As my mom always liked to point out, whenever I had any extra money.) I’d seen signs for the Anacortes Farmers Market while at the Marina and arrows pointing down the walking path… Why not? There’s always something delicious to be found at a farmers market…
Delicious food and beautiful views at Anthony’s at Cap Sante Marina and Anthony’s Cabana
Free chowder on the waterfront!
Anthony’s Cabana at Cap Sante Marina
A beautiful day to hang out at the Marina
Walking north down the waterfront path, I first came upon the spectacular and well-preserved W.T. Preston, part of theMaritime Heritage Center. The W.T. Preston was a steam-powered, hazard-clearing “snagboat” operational in local waters from 1929 through 1981. It’s on the National Register of Historic Places and is a National Historic Landmark. Both the W.T. Preston and the heritage center are well worth a look and provide a great view into earlier maritime work in the area. (Open April thru October – Check website for tour hours.)
The W.T. Preston Snagboat
Learn all about the seafaring history of the Anacortes area.
The W.T. Preston Snagboat – Take a tour!
The W.T. Preston Snagboat – in operation until 1981.
Visiting the Anacortes Farmers Market was a great way to spend a sunny Saturday at lunchtime. Live music, great local produce, artisan crafts, handmade food items – you name it, the market had it. While I still had that hole burning through my pocket, I played it cool and walked away with a very reasonable haul of produce from the Frog Song Farm stand and some amazing baked goods from the stellar Breadfarm. The waterfront area was filled with so much to see and do – it would be easy to make it a regular trek if I lived in the area. The market is open year-round with seasonal hours – and they even have apie festival in September and a holiday market around Thanksgiving. (Did I mention the PIE FESTIVAL!?)
Oh Breadfarm, how I love thee so…
Delicious produce from Frog Song Farm
Those radishes were delicious!
Great music throughout the day!
If you’re hanging out in the waterfront / farmers market area, consider adding these spots to your agenda:
Mad Hatter Ice Cream was voted Best of Skagit 2019 for desserts and it’s well-deserved. They serve both hard ice cream and soft serve in many different flavors and create several ice cream inspired masterpieces. Yum!
Dockside Dogs can be found as you drive into the parking lot area for Cap Sante Marina. They’re hard to miss, in fact – but who would want to? Housed in a small, quirky hut, they serve delicious dogs, chili and beverages.
Grab a dog and go for a walk along the Tommy Thompson Trail. It starts at the marina and heads south. Walk across Fidalgo Bay on an abandoned train trestle. Cool!
Head north from the waterfront and arrive at Cap Sante Park. (At the end of Commercial Ave.) There are great walking trails and beautiful views of the neighboring San Juan Islands.
Check out the Waterfront Festival (Jun 1-2) for two days of art, music, a lot of food, a car show and an excellent take on the relaxed vibe of Anacortes.
Ice cream – delicious and cool!
All paths lead to Dockside Dogs!
Anacortes suffers no shortage of great places to dine – especially if you’re down for excellent seafood. If you’re not sure what sounds good, it’s as easy as taking a cruise up Commercial Avenue to peruse the many options.
I love kippers (smoked trout) for breakfast and if you do, too, Adrift has your number. They serve tasty breakfast, lunch and dinner in a great location directly on Commercial Avenue – with outdoor seating for the sunny days. All locally sourced ingredients!
Just down from Adrift, Gere-A-Deli serves up tasty deli fare and sandwiches with classics like the Ruben – or maybe you fancy liverwurst? Voted 2019 Best of Skagit – Deli.
Greek Islands Restaurant offers up Greek favorites for your lunch and dinner needs – located directly on Commercial Avenue. (Closed Sunday / Monday)
For all things seafood, check out Bob’s Chowder Bar. Featuring BBQ salmon, chowder (obviously), fish tacos, FRIED PICKLES and more. Very tasty! They also have a location in nearby La Conner.
Should you be in the market for a donut bacon cheeseburger – and WHO ISN’T? – check out the funky Vagabond Station on Commercial Avenue. Serving great burgers and more, they’re definitely worth a stop.
Should you be interested in a classic diner experience, head to Island Café – Also on Commercial Avenue. They serve breakfast all day along with lunch and dinner. Their raspberry French toast stuffed with cream cheese is divine.
A great charcuterie plate and a delicious glass of wine on a sunny day? Yes, please! Check out Salt & Vine, located just off Commercial Avenue for a delicious and refined stop on your Anacortes adventure. And if you appreciate a good glass of wine like I do, be sure to visit Anacortes in April for the Anacortes Spring Wine Festival.
For a great cup of coffee in a comfy, art-friendly scene, stop in at Johnny Picasso’s on Commercial Avenue. Also through the same entrance, be sure to peruse the goods at The Red Snapper Gift Shop – ‘lots of cool, funny items for all.
If you’d like to extend your awesome day-trip, check in at the Majestic Inn & Spa (c. 1890), located in the center of historic downtown on Commercial Avenue. It was renovated in 2013, features a beautiful rooftop lounge and is home to the elegant and delicious, 5th Street Bistro.
Delicious wine and cheese to be found at Salt & Vine off Commercial Avenue
The funky and fun Red Snapper gift shop
The lovely Majestic Inn and 5th Street Bistro
Great coffee and art!
Try the raspberry stuffed French toast at Island Cafe!
Gere-a-Deli and Adrift – two great dining choices!
Something I’m always on the lookout for is a great brewery. Skagit County understands my needs and meets them in excellent fashion. In fact, they make it pretty easy to map out your brewery strategy when planning your next Skagit County adventure. Hit up the Skagit Farm to Pint site for a list of all the Skagit Breweries and information on following the very cool Passport & Ale Trail.
To fulfill your Anacortes brewery desires, you needn’t look far. Check out these options for a tall, cold one:
Located in the heart of historic downtown Anacortes on Commercial Avenue, head to Anacortes Brewery and Rockfish Grill for a great local beer and excellent seafood, burgers and wood-fired pizzas. I’m particularly fond of their Cream Bee and Tripel Vision
Do an Anacortes pub crawl and head directly across the street from the Anacortes Brewery to the Brown Lantern Ale House. Great food, beer and live music – you can’t go wrong!
Heading into Anacortes on SR-20, look for Bastion Brewing Co. (Very close to SR-20 turnoff towards Deception pass) Stop in for a tasty pint of their on-tap beers or ciders and a meal before heading on to the majesty of Deception Pass.
If you’d like to celebrate Skagit County beer in all its glory, add the Anacortes Bier on the Pier festival to your calendar. (Oct 4-5) Featuring 30 breweries and 10 cideries, it will be a fine way to spend a crisp fall weekend.
If you’re looking to walk off all the delicious food and drink you’ve sampled on your Anacortes trip, be sure to investigate the great Arts and shopping opportunities in the area.
Visit the Scott Milo Gallery on Commercial Avenue and enjoy what the local artists have to share. For further celebration of the Arts, check out the annual Anacortes Art Festival (Aug 2-4) for a great display of fine art, music and delicious food.
To investigate how those antiques might’ve been applied, make a visit to the Anacortes History Museum for a look into Anacortes days gone by. Located in the historic Carnegie Library building on 8th Street in downtown Anacortes.
The Eagles Hall in downtown Anacortes
Time stands still in Anacortes
The beautiful post office building on Commercial Avenue
Scott Milo gallery on Commercial Avenue
The very cool Watermark Book Co. in downtown
I wanted to make a point to mention the San Juan ferry route at the end of the Anacortes section. Not because it’s lacking importance, but because often times – and I’m personally guilty – it’s the only reason I’m actually in Anacortes. The San Juan Islands are simply amazing and I don’t think I’d ever tire of visiting them and enjoying the awesome ferry ride along the way. That said, Anacortes, all on its own, is a marvelous place to visit and merits serious attention any time of the year.
Nevertheless, I can’t deny the awesomeness of the ferry routes to both the San Juan IslandsandSidney, BC. My pro-tip suggestion is to add a solid visit to Anacortes before or after any trip to the San Juans. You won’t be sorry. (More Pro Tips: Be sure to make ferry reservations ahead of time – especially in the busy summer months.)
In addition to the entertaining and delicious downtown core, Anacortes has many things to offer in the way of outdoors activities. You can hike – or drive – to the highest point on Fidalgo Island, Mount Erie Park and take in the magnificent views. Or stop in at Washington Park for great camping, boating and hiking opportunities. (Near the ferry terminal at the west end of Anacortes)
Hop a ferry to the San Juan Islands! (Photo credit: B. Skoczen)
Someone stole my boat! (Photo credit: B. Skoczen)
Another great adventure spot in the area, just north of Anacortes and across the Guemes Channel is the lovely Guemes Island. Accessed by its very own ferry line, the Guemes Island Ferry, the 5-minute crossing brings you to a peaceful, largely untouched island of relaxation and beauty. The local hiking trails and beaches are wonderful and the island feels much removed from the hectic pace of the mainland. (Although Anacortes is actually pretty laid back…)
Guemes Island isn’t where you’d head for big-box shopping or multiple entertainment options, but the tiny island certainly has its charms. Check out these areas on your next Guemes Island visit:
Enjoy great views, beautiful coastal flora and fauna and easy-going hiking on the Guemes Mountain Trail. A beautiful way to spend a peaceful afternoon.
Hit up the Peach Preserve for excellent coastal views, bird and wildlife viewing, hiking and general enjoyment of the coastal scene.
Don’t let the name deceive you, the Guemes Island General Store is not only a general store, but so much more. They have a full menu, serve beer and wine and regularly host live music events. The General Store is a must stop for any Guemes Island visit. If you’re around the area in June, be sure to check out their Summer Solstice Music Fest.
Since 1947, the Guemes Island Resort has been hosting visitors to the area. Outfitted with cabins, yurts and houses, it’s a wonderful retreat from the city. They also have boat rentals, a sauna, a massage therapist, gift shop, rec room and hot tubs. (Wood-fired and saltwater!) Dog friendly!
Just before you reach Anacortes, the main route of SR-20 turns southwest towards the glorious Deception Pass and the Deception Pass bridges. (The bridges are on the National Register of Historic Places) Of all the many amazing Washington State destinations, Deception Pass positively deserves to be on the best-of list. Not only is the area absolutely spectacular, the drive there is gorgeous and there are countless places to stop and enjoy along the way.
Some of the worthwhile spots to investigate on your way to Deception Pass:
On the left side of the road, just after you turn onto SR-20 towards Deception Pass, check out the very unique Anacortes Flea Market. Chock-full of interesting finds, this is a great place to investigate. You never know what amazing treasure you might find! They also feature local produce and seafood.
You will very likely have to wait in a long line, but I assure you it’s worth it. Stop by the Shrimp Shack located directly off SR-20 and indulge in all things shrimp and seafood. They even sell freshly caught shrimp by the bag! (Pro tip: They have two lines – one for cold food and one for grilled/hot food. Make sure you’re getting in the right line from the start!)
You can’t miss Lake Campbell as you’re heading towards Deception Pass. (Located close to the Shrimp Shack!) There are several lakes in the area, but Lake Campbell is the largest. There are a lot of great boating activities and fishing in the area and if you’re looking for someplace cozy to stay, check out Lake Campbell Lodging, just across from the lake.
A little further up the road towards Deception Pass, you’ll come to Pass Lake. (Turn onto Rosario Road off SR-20. It’s just across from Deception Pass State Park – Bowman Bay entrance) It’s a little smaller than Lake Campbell, but also has its fair share of great boating and fishing. (Note: Fly-fishing only, catch and release only and non-motorized boats only) Check out the Pass Lake hike for a great round-trip hike up into the forest with great views overlooking the lake.
My secret perch overlooking Pass Lake
A great trail above the lake
Beautiful, serene Pass Lake
What a tranquil afternoon that guy must be having…
Just across from the Pass Lake parking lot, you’ll see the Bowman Bay entrance to Deception Pass State Park. The park is quite large (3854 acres!), spanning two counties and Bowman Bay is a great way to get oriented to the scope and scale of all the park has to offer. Bowman Bay also plays host to the Civilian Conservation Corps Interpretive Center. The CCCs largely built all of the US state and national parks and the interpretive center is an excellent look into the depth of hard work they accomplished.
As one would imagine with the impressive amount of available shoreline in the park (77,000 feet of saltwater shoreline!), all manner of boating is popular and Bowman Bay gets things started with kayak rentals and tours. They also have a single-lane boat launch area for motorized vehicles. (As is the case with all Washington State parks, a Discover Pass is recommended for parking and water-access, but there’s also the option to pay $10 for day-use of WA State Park areas.) There are also many hiking options in the Bowman Bay area such as Lottie Bay and the trail to Rosario Beach.
Lovely Bowman Bay
Looks like the perfect place to launch an adventure
So many boating options…
Stock up on canoes and kayaks!
If you don’t feel like hiking or boating to Rosario Beach, jump back in your vehicle and head up Rosario Road to Cougar Gap Road and the Rosario Beach entrance. Deception Pass State Park is the most visited park in the state and it’s easy to see why. Rosario Beach is stunning and often quite busy because of this fact. It is, however, very much worth a visit. The views are amazing, there are excellent tide pools to explore and 38 miles of trails, including bike and horse, to enjoy. Throw in boating, docks to tie up to, fishing (saltwater and freshwater) and great shoreline access and it’s a stellar time to be had.
I’m on a boat! (Well, I’d like to be…)
So much to explore in the tide pools
Very cool tide pools at Rialto beach
Life in the tide pools
Beautiful, clear water in the tide pools
One thing not to miss while visiting Rosario Beach is a visit to The Maiden of Deception Pass. It’s a beautiful Native American story pole based on a Samish legend, perched just above the beach. Also be sure to take the short trail up to Rosario Head. (Just past the Maiden) The view of the surrounding islands and the windswept bend of the trees at the top are truly spectacular. Check out the Headlands / Rosario Head / Lighthouse Point trail if you’d like a greatest-hits look at the surrounding areas.
Beautiful view from the lookout above the Maiden
Stalwart, windswept trees on the lookout above the Maiden
Looking out onto Rialto Beach
The Maiden of Deception Pass
Should you want to extend your stay in the park – and there are plenty of reasons to stay – the Bowman Bay, Cranberry Lake and Quarry Pond areas offer camping. Cranberry Lake and Quarry Pond are actually situated on Whidbey Island and in Island County, but it’s just a quick trip across the Deception Pass Bridges to arrive at this section of the park. (Stay tuned for my Island County article – coming soon!)
Great picnic shelter at Rialto Beach
Nice place to take a kayak break
Rialto Beach is a great place for family fun
Just sit back and relax on Rialto Beach
As if Deception Pass State Park wasn’t enough majesty and glory, just wait until you get to the actual bridges. They are one of the most awe-inspiring sights in the state, whether you’re driving, riding or walking across and worth a trip all by themselves. Sunrises and sunsets are particularly gorgeous from the bridges, but to get the most out of an investigative walk under the bridges, I’d advise making your trek during full daylight hours.
Park and go explore the bridge!
What a view!
An absolute marvel of engineering
If you do indeed want to walk across and/or under the bridges – and I highly recommend it – there are parking strips on both the Skagit and Island County parts. There is also a small lot on the Skagit side, just before you head south over the bridge. (There are bathrooms and a whale watching outfit located in the lot.) I was lucky enough to find a spot on the parking strip just before the bridge and it was the perfect location for traipsing off under that section of bridge.
Completed in 1935 by Washington State Highways and the CCCs, the bridges are a marvel of construction. Situated high above Deception and Canoe Passes, they connect Whidbey Island with Fidalgo Island and provide easy access across the tumultuous waters below. It must’ve been quite an endeavor to take the ferry across the channels earlier in the 20th century.
Walking across the bridges can be a little nerve-wracking, especially when the big trucks roll by, but it is thrilling and well worth the effort. Granted, if you’re not good with heights, it’s probably not a walk you’re likely to enjoy. (It’s 180 feet down to the water!) I love heights, but have to admit to feeling a little wobbly once I made it to the middle section. The view is overwhelmingly beautiful, but you are very high up and the walkway is pretty dang narrow. But still totally worth it!! (Pro Tip: HOLD ON TIGHTLY to your camera or phone while on the bridges. I luckily still have possession of my phone, but there was a precarious fumble incident…)
Yowsa, that’s a big drop!
HOLD ONTO TIGHT TO YOUR GOODS!
Beautiful views from the bridge
That’s a long way down!
Walking across the bridges is fantastic, but equally amazing and incredibly unique is the trip under the bridges. Accessible on either side, locate the stairways that lead down towards the bridge’s underbelly. There are informal trails leading closer to the cliffs, but be very careful when getting close to the edge as there are no guardrails and the drop is quite extensive. (Probably not a great place for the kids to explore.) Standing directly underneath the bridge and looking out through the girders is an absolutely amazing sight to behold – don’t miss the opportunity! (Note: It’s illegal to cross the highway – you must use the stairways to go under the bridges.)
Quite a few stairs down to the underbelly of the bridge
Heading under the bridge…
I’m a troll under the bridge!
Heading back from under the bridge
Heading back towards Anacortes, it was time to check out Samish Island and surrounding areas. Samish Island can be reached via the Bayview-Edison Road off of SR-20, near Whitney. If you’re traveling from the north, the drive on SR-11 (aka: Chuckanut Drive) is beautiful. Another option is to take SR-11 off of I-5, just north of the Burlington area. Home to the Samish Indian Nation, Samish Island is technically a peninsula and while small, host to several worthwhile destinations. Some of the great things to check out while in the area:
There are many places I’d like to visit in Washington State and one of the spots on my bucket list is the Point Williams Lodge on Samish Island. It’s pretty swanky and I can seriously envision myself throwing a lovely weekend event with friends at the lodge… (Come on – they’ll hook you up with a personal chef and a STRING QUARTET. Any takers??) They also have a smaller cottage for 5-day stays. #LifeGoals
If you’re in the market for fresh oysters from Samish Bay, mussels, clams or Dungeness crab, stop in at Blau Oyster Co. seafood market and fill up your cooler! Maybe your private chef at the Point Williams Lodge could whip up an elegant dinner on the deck for you…
Looking out towards the San Juan Islands – and oyster farms
Amazing view. Amazing oysters!
The view of oyster beds from the Samish Lookout
Hike, bike or drive up to the gorgeous Samish Lookout, part of the Blanchard State Forest, and enjoy stunning views of the San Juans and Skagit Valley. There are many trailheads in the area, including Oyster Dome and sections of the Pacific Northwest Trail as well hang gliding and paragliding opportunities. The Oyster Dome trail was recently voted ‘Best of Skagit 2019 – Best Trail.’
Take a walkabout and enjoy the beautiful island scenery on the East Loop Walk. Located at Camp Samish, it takes you around the lovely Freestad Lake.
A patchwork wonder from Samish lookout
A great place to hang glide!
The Northwest, in all its splendor…
Sigh… So much beauty in Skagit County!
The old adage, ‘good things come in small packages’ directly pops to mind when thinking about the tiny area of Bow–Edison. Just over from the Samish Island peninsula, the combined townships account for a food haven of impressive proportion, packed into a relatively small section of Skagit County. Add in beautiful countryside with sweeping views of Mt. Baker, the San Juan Islands and Samish Bay and you might not want to leave. (I truly did not.)
Prolific journalist and famous WWII war correspondent, Edward R. Murrow grew up in Edison from a young age. It’s profound to think of such epic quotes as “Hello, America. This is London calling.” and “Good night and good luck.” and know they came from someone who played in the fields of Edison as a small boy. (He later graduated from WSU) If you’re not familiar with the work of Edward R. Murrow, check out the 2005 film Good Night and Good luck about his conflict with Senator Joseph McCartney. It’s a very well done piece with an excellent soundtrack.
Streets of sleepy Edison – boyhood home of Edward R. Murrow
Beautiful scenery on Bow-Edison Road
Beautiful flowers everywhere in Edison
As mentioned, Bow-Edison is an absolute food haven. If you’re going to the area, definitely bring a cooler and ice packs as you’re going to need to take home a haul. It’s unavoidable and necessary. Trust me. Some of the treasure trove opportunities to be explored:
For some of the most delicious bread and baked goods on the planet, check out Breadfarm. Crusty breads, delicious cookies, buns – everything is amazing! I am particularly in love with the chocolate ginger spice cookies. If you can’t make it to Edison, look for them at the Anacortes, Bellingham and Everett Farmers Markets. (Cash or check only for the shop – Or shop online!)
The amazing Breadfarm – and delicious Slough Food just next door!
I WILL EAT ALL THE BREAD!
I was there later in the afternoon and the line was still out the door…
Farming local shellfish since 1890, Taylor Shellfish has become synonymous with high quality and taste. Always well-reviewed and featured on shows such as Top Chef, Taylor Shellfish sets the bar for NW shellfish. Now with several locations in western Washington, the Samish Oyster Bar & Shellfish Market is their original and premier stop for enjoying the tasty morsels as well as buying some for home. Grab your freshly barbecued oysters and enjoy the sunset from their waterfront picnic area – and take home a big bag of fresh oysters for the grill! Sublime…
Fresh oysters – THIS WAY!
Low tide at Taylor Shellfish
I’ll take one of everything!
What to do with all those shells?
Tasty dining by the water
Beer, wine, oysters and more!
Stop by the Samish Bay Cheese retail shop and tasting room in Bow for amazing local cheeses along with beer, wine, cider and other tasty treats. Their Arugula Ladysmith and signature Aged Ladysmith cheeses are amazing. And they pair quite nicely with several of the items found at my next stop…
Honestly. SO delicious!
The happy cows of Samish Bay Cheese
So many delicious things to try!
The Bow Hill Blueberries farm, in operation since 1947, is certified organic and family-run. Their excellent farm store is open year-round and has all you need in the way of delicious, organic heirloom blueberries, including cold-pressed blueberry juice, jam, marinades and more. Pickled blueberries? They’ve got ‘em – and they are phenomenal! While recently perusing and sampling the farm store goods, they gave me a recipe for grilled salmon featuring the pickled berries and I plan on making it very soon. Also on my visit, I had the pleasure of meeting owner, Harley Soltes. He graciously took time out of his day to tell me about the farm and its history, hipped me to great local establishments to visit and generally shared his knowledge about the local farming industry, including the benefits of farm-to-table life and so much more. It was a mini master’s class! The farm also offers a summer pie making class, the occasional farm-to-table dinner and when blueberries are in season, they offer great U-Pick opportunities. Additionally, Bow Hill blueberries are featured in the delicious Lopez Island Creamery blueberry ice cream, which is available for purchase in the farm store! This farm is a gem and a wonderfully preserved part of Skagit County agricultural history – and an absolute must-stop whenever visiting the Bow-Edison area. (Note: This season’s U-Pick begins Friday, July 26th and continues into September while supplies last. U-Pick is open on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays only. Check their U-Pick page for more details and seasonal updates.) (Farm store open year-round, Mon-Sat 10-5, Sun 11-5)
Pickled blueberries – who knew?? SO delicious!
Do not miss stopping here!
What used to be an actual mink house way back in the day now hosts farm-to-table dinners!
Flowers and berries!
Just a few of the excellent offerings at Bow Hill Blueberries
I wanted it all!!
Close up on the lovelies…
Gothberg Farms offers fresh goat cheeses at their Bow farm. Look for the “open today” sign when heading to the farm. They have an “Honor Box” self-service fridge. Cash is encouraged, but they usually have someone around who can do cards and checks. COOL!
Check out the Golden Glen Creamery in Bow for delicious, handcrafted cheese, butter and dairy. (M-F, 10am-4pm – closed weekends and holidays)
Farm to Market Bakery in Bow serves up tasty bakery goods and coffees, plus breakfast and lunch items. (Wed-Sun, 9am-4pm) Located just next door is their sister operation, The Rhody Café. They serve farm-to-table dinners along with breakfast, brunch and lunch. (Closed Mon-Tues)
Stop in at Tweets Café for tasty farm-to-table breakfast and brunch along with delicious pies, cakes and more! Tweets was actually closed for the weekend when I visited, but I plan on venturing back soon. I’ve heard too many excellent reviews to not give them a try!
Featuring local ingredients and filling the table with delicious fried oysters, awesome burgers and much more, The Old Edison is an excellent place to relax and enjoy all things Skagit County. Outdoor seating and live music on the weekends.
Located directly next door to Breadfarm, Slough Food offers a great selection of wine, cheese and meats as well as a delicious café menu. They also throw glorious onsite foodie events. For instance, I happened to be in the area for one of their monthly paella parties and it was FANTASTIC! Paired with a glass of wine and a crusty Breadfarm baguette, I was full for the rest of the day. Check out the next paella party happening on August 18th from 11am – 3pm.
So much delicious cheese at Slough Food – and MUCH more!
Can’t quite describe how delicious this was… WOW.
The master at work…
Breadfarm bread, local butter and a tasty glass of wine with my paella. Dreamy!
The view from my garden table on the Slough Food patio
If you’re tooling around the Bow area on summer Thursdays, be sure to stop in at the Bow Farmer’s Market for a great selection of local foods and artisan goods. (Thursdays, 1-6pm, June 13 – Sept. 12 – at the awesome Samish Bay Cheese) For all things winter holiday, check out their Holiday Festival on December 7th from 10am-4pm at the Edison Elementary School.
Don’t forget to check out the excellent non-food options in Edison as well. After all, you’ll need some way to work off all of that amazing food you just consumed. Visit the funky Lucky Dumpster for one-of-a-kind pieces and custom furniture (cash/check only) and the Smith & Vallee and e.gallery for beautiful artwork.
A truly lovely and quirky spot.
So many local artists to check out!
Ain’t it so… On the side of the Lucky Dumpster
My lucky fox and lucky ducky cups from the Lucky Dumpster! I was feeling pretty lucky on this trip, after all…
Beautiful art to be found at the Smith & Vallee Gallery
Coming soon to the Bow-Edison area, keep an eye out for the opening of much-anticipated “brewstillery” Terramar. They’ll be featuring locally crafted beer, spirits and wood-fired pizza. I’m very excited to stop in on future Bow-Edison pilgrimages. Hit up their Facebook page for progress updates.
On the topic of stunning views, Mount Vernon, largest city in Skagit County and county seat, is one of my favorite places to visit in the state. Great food, great scenery and absolutely wonderful, stupendous, sweeping fields of the most gorgeous flowers ever. The area is an amazing feast for the eyes, stomach and soul.
There are many types of farms and fields in the Mount Vernon area, but the most famous of all – world-famous, in fact – would have to be the breathtaking tulip and daffodil fields. Every year, beginning in March with the daffodils, people flock from all around to take in acre upon acre of glorious color and bloom. The scene really explodes in April with the arrival of one of the most amazing floral displays at the Skagit Valley Tulip Festival. It is truly difficult to accurately explain the pure magic of the experience, but I’ll give it a whirl.
All the colors!
My favorite mix of colors!
Tulips and more tulips!
My friend Lorrie and I have long been promising each other to visit the tulip fields together. Both of us are avid flower lovers and have been attempting to make a pilgrimage for years, but our schedules never seemed to sync up. This year, however, we were bound and determined to make it work and finally, glorious tulip fields were ours for the enjoying. VICTORY!
We took off bright and early on a Saturday morning as we were advised to get there early due to large crowds of flower fanatics. For the record, I’m SO glad we listened. We also checked out the official brochure on the Tulip Festival website and learned that driving past the Mount Vernon exit on I-5 and taking Exit 230 onto SR-20 is a much stealthier and less congested route. What a beautiful back way through gorgeous farmland and countryside!
The first group of llamas we saw that day!
Just hanging out on the idyllic backroads of Mt. Vernon
It was barely 10am when we arrived at RoozenGaarde, with the triumphant Star Wars theme blasting on my playlist as we pulled into the area, but the lots were already filling with flower worshipers and the entrance line was snaking down from the ticket box. ($7 for adults during week and $10 on weekends, kids 5 and under are free, parking is free. Important note: Dogs are not allowed in the tulip grounds – keep the pups at home.) It was turning into a lovely sunny morning, but it had recently rained and the parking lot was muddy in places. (Pro tip: Wear comfortable footwear you won’t mind getting muddy. Rubber boots/Wellies are perfect – and easily hosed off at the end of your tulip trek.) After donning said appropriate footwear, Lorrie and I traipsed off to the entrance to get our tulips on… FLOWER TIME!
The line to get in! At least it was pretty… (Photo credit: L. Ruiz)
Pro-tips from the RoozenGaarde crew (Photo credit: L. Ruiz)
Photo op at RoozenGaarde (Photo credit: L. Ruiz)
After our fairly brief wait in line, we entered the RoozenGaarde grounds and were met with one of the most beautiful and colorful sights we’d ever seen. It was spectacular! Tulips were definitely the star of the show, but there were all manner of flowers everywhere. Gardens, paths, flowering trees, flowers growing in trees – every display imaginable filled the sprawling grounds. I’ve never experienced anything like it. RoozenGaarde is the largest flower bulb grower in North America and home to more than a 1000 acres of tulips and daffodils. To say you can see flowers as far as the eye can see is an absolute understatement.
Tulips growing IN trees!
Just plain AWESOME!
Just like the Dutch countryside…
They had some amazing and quirky varieties of tulips!
I love these ones. Pointy!
The “Salmon Parrot”
Who doesn’t love a grape hyacinth?
If only I had this talented of a green thumb…
Frilly and lovely.
So very dainty!
There are two main tulip and daffodil fields in the area, RoozenGaarde and Tulip Town. Both are spectacular, but we chose to start off with RoozenGaarde. We did head over towards Tulip Town later in the afternoon, but only enjoyed the fields from an outer view. If you visit Tulip Town proper and don’t feel like slushing through the fields, hop one of their Blue Trolley Tours for a reasonable two dollars. (10am – 4pm) (Pro Tip: Before you make your flower trek, check out the bloom map and it will help point out what is in season at the time.)
So very elegant.
Fields of gold!
Rich with color…
Stripe on stripe!
I could’ve walked around here all day…
Clouds and flowers. Beautiful.
I love all the shades of green along with the blooms
My lovely friend, Lorrie with her new tulip viewing hat!
I feel confident in letting the pictures speak for themselves, but it is easy and completely enjoyable to spend a very happy afternoon in the tulip fields. In addition to the simple pleasure of fully surrounding oneself in fields of joy, they have concessions, a gift shop, bulb and bloom shops and photo ops of epic magnitude. I am beyond happy to have finally gotten the opportunity to bask in the colorful landscape and will absolutely be returning next season.
Double tulip action!
I want to live in this picture.
Swirls of loveliness
Local chickens not impressed with the flowers.
Old barns and lilacs. My new band name. The road past the Tulip Town fields.
All of these tulips for $20!!
After winding out of the area, met with beautiful flowers and countryside the whole way, we drove towards the town of Mount Vernon to check out the Mount Vernon Street Fair (April 19-21) and historic downtown area. The traffic was a little heavy going back towards town, but the day was beautiful and it was kind of nice to slowly roll through the route into town. Parking was a little crowded in town due to the street fair, but we found a pretty sweet spot down by the river and easily walked over to the heart of the downtown core. Additionally, the walk along the river is beautiful and well worth a leisurely stroll.
Tulips AND a street fair? Come on!! (Photo credit: L. Ruiz)
Tulip tower power! Next to historic downtown Mount Vernon
We had enjoyed a snack while tiptoeing through the tulips, but were still feeling a bit peckish. Given all the great food options in the downtown Mount Vernon area along with the food vendors set up for the street fair, there was no shortage of excellent options. (The street fair is quite large and fills up the entire downtown core!) In between making our way through the fair and checking out all the artisan crafts and foods, we did indeed take great advantage of the selections. A few of our favorite finds and more:
For an excellent smoked old fashioned and a very tasty charcuterie board, stop by the Valley Shine Distillery on First. We sat at the bar and had an excellent chat with the owner – great atmosphere, delicious food and excellent libations!
A wonderful place to stop and relax…
I can confirm that they were ALL delicious! I’m gonna need that Bonfire Toffee for ski adventures…
Flowers are EVERYwhere in Skagit County!
The Smoked Old Fashioned. Yowsa!!
So many delicious libations!
This charcuterie was faaaaabulous!
And the baked brie! Oh my…
To keep the action going, a hit of espresso – and maybe some wine – was in order. We stopped in at the Ristretta Coffee Lounge & Wine Bar and took in the art scene and relaxed for a few minutes before rejoining the street fair party. (Voted Best of Skagit 2019 – Coffeehouse)
A little art with your wine and coffee?
Great coffee and wine at Ristretta!
If you’d like to add a bit of old fashioned refinement and flair to your flower appreciation, stop in at the Old Town Grainery Tearoom and Galleria for a traditional high tea or order ala carte from their menu. Lovely! Also located in the Grainery is the enjoyable Italian restaurant, Il Granaio. The Grainery is quite an international hub!
I have fond memories of rolling into the Skagit River Brewery after a long camping trip in the nearby Mt. Baker area. They have great beer and a tasty pub menu and downing a cold one after several days on the hot trail was absolutely transcendent.
Sporting locations in Mt. Vernon, La Conner and Anacortes, the much beloved Calico Cupboard serves great breakfast and lunch to a very appreciative and non-stop crowd. (Voted Best of Skagit – Bakery/Breakfast)
There are many great places to set up a picnic in the Mount Vernon area. Little Mountain Park is a beautiful place to start! Head to the excellent Skagit Valley Food Co-Op before you go and outfit yourself with all the tasty goods. (Voted Best of Skagit 2019 – Grocery Store)
Just north of historic downtown Mount Vernon, look for the Farmstrong Brewery Co. taproom and beer garden. Purveyors of delicious beer and awesome cider, they are well worth a visit. Regular food trucks onsite – or brown bag it! (Voted best of Skagit 2019 – Brewery)
During the Tulip Festival, there was a great pop-up wine tasting at the Perry & Carlson Gallery. The gallery is a lovely place to stop in any time of year, but even nicer with a delicious glass of Washington State wine. Keep an eye out for events throughout the year.
If you are a fan of AMAZING chocolate and confections, do not miss a visit to the award-winning Forte Artisan Chocolate on First. I’m not going to lie, I walked out of there having easily spent forty dollars on various sugary treats. I have no regrets.
Lorrie and her new tulip hat enjoying the chocolate!
Soooooo very delicious!
This was all chocolate!
Soooo many awards!
Part of my $40 haul. Heh.
For a taste of the official hard cider of the Tulip Festival, pay a visit to the Tulip Valley Winery for tastings on Saturdays and Sundays from 11:30am – 5:30pm.
If you’re in the mood for a crazy sundae or a good old-fashioned burger, Big Scoops Sundae Palace is the place to go! They’ve been around since 1973 and not much has changed with the décor – I felt like a kid again the second I walked in the door. They also feature delicious NW favorite, Cascade Glacier ice cream.
Right out of my childhood…
I wish these prices were still current! (c. 1973)
A great way to sample many of the local foods and artisan wares of the area is with a stop at the Mount Vernon Farmers Market. (Saturdays in late May thru mid-October, 9am-3pm at Riverwalk Park with additional times and locations throughout the year.)
Scenes at the Street Fair
Great to see the younger generation playing Jazz!
Things to do…
Great old buildings in the historic downtown area.
A fine idea.
Check out the local Farmers Market!
Visiting Mount Vernon in celebration of spring blooms is always a good idea, but there are so many reasons to visit year-round. The historic downtown area and Riverwalk Park are excellent any time and it’s easy to find concerts, festivals and delicious food throughout the year. Just a few of the options:
The historic Lincoln Theatre, located on 1st Street, features a great variety of live music and theatrical performances throughout the year along with first-run films. (Voted Best of Skagit 2019 – Theatre)
There’s nothing like enjoying a bit of haggis while watching burly athletes toss around heavy cabers (long wood poles), weights and more. Check out the annual Mt Vernon Highland Games for all things Scottish. Och aye! (July 13-14 at the lovely Edgewater Park)
Celebrate the agricultural and farming traditions of the area at the annual Skagit County Fair. Fried food and carnival rides for all! (Aug 7-10)
Celebrate the glory of beer at the Brewfest on the Skagit. Head to the river walk in downtown Mount Vernon to join in the hoppy festivities. (Aug 11, 4-9pm)
Among the many leisure activities to be found on the Skagit Riverwalk Park, be sure to check out the free summer concert series located at Riverwalk Plaza. (Thursday evenings at 6pm, July 11 – August 29)
Located just across from the river and Riverwalk Park is the always eclectic Red Door Antique Mall. An interesting way to spend the afternoon any time of year.
Skagit County hosts many types of festivals throughout the year and the Skagit River Salmon Festival is one of the favorites. Sample delicious seafood, visit the beer garden and celebrate the yearly return of the Northwest’s most iconic fish on September 7th at Edgewater Park. (Voted Best of Skagit 2019 – Festival)
For fresh berries, produce, pumpkins and more, visit Schuh Farms from April thru December. They offer u-pick pumpkins in the fall along with other seasonal events. (Voted Best of Skagit 2019 – Farm)
Riverwalk Park is lovely!
The Division Street Bridge near historic downtown Mount Vernon and the Riverwalk.
Something new I learned about Mount Vernon and its contribution to the bounty of the area, is its hosting of WSU’s Bread Lab campus. Staffed by an ardent team of scientists, farmers, millers, bakers and bread lovers, the Bread Lab strives to learn about, educate, and grow all things grain. Their efforts have garnered global attention and if what’s being produced out of their Baking School is any indication of what they can offer the realm of baking and grain production, the world will be all the better – and tastier – for it. I was beyond excited to learn about their baking classes and will be signing up for a few in the near future! British meat pies or pierogi, anyone?
Another way the Skagit Valley is celebrating local grains is with the innovative operation at Skagit Valley Malting. Supplying many local brewers and distillers, they provide the malty goodness that gives those craft brews and spirits their body, color and many aspects of their flavor. Between the grains, hops, fruits and varied climates of Washington State, we really do corner the market on some pretty amazing beverage ingredients.
Rounding out our flower pilgrimage, Lorrie and I decided to make our way to the tiny town of Conway and up to the lovely La Conner. Since we wanted to make quick tracks to the area, we went south on I-5 and took Exit 221 over to Fir Island Road. If you’re in need of a good glass of wine or perhaps a round of tasty oysters before heading over to La Conner, stop by the Pasek Tasting Room and the Conway Pub & Eatery (since 1932) for the goods. Both can be found not far off the freeway exit.
For the record, Fir Island Road is one of my favorite drives in the state – and one of my favorite runs. Normally, it wouldn’t be a road conducive to running, but it serves as part of the epic Ragnar route and was one of the legs I got to run. If you have 12 people willing to pile into a couple of vans for 36 hours to relay-race 200 miles from the Canadian border down to Whidbey Island, Ragnar is the scene for you! Each person ends up running three routes, spaced out over the 36-hour period. EPIC! And deliriously exhausting. But amazing…
You never know what you’ll come across on a backroad…
The historic Fir-Conway Lutheran Church. My starting point for leg 2 of the Ragnar relay race.
Taken while running down Fir Conway Road in the Ragnar relay race. Stunning!
Exhausted from running, but blown away by the beauty…
Fir Island Road is the quintessential country road, absolutely stunning and idyllic. Running down the road at sunset, flanked by old barns, beautiful pastures and grazing farm animals was one of the most peaceful and serene scenes I’ve ever experienced. (Minus being out of breath from running…) My route began at the picturesque Fir-Conway Lutheran Church (c. 1902) and ended at Snowgoose Produce, an excellent country store and produce stand tucked amongst the pastures and filled with delicious treats. They feature an ice cream counter stocked with all the Lopez Island Creamery flavors and it was quite the hit with the exhausted Ragnar participants.
So much goodness to be found at Snowgoose Produce
Pasta mama’s – from the Tri-Cities! (Cities of my youth)
Salish Sea halibut. This thing was HUGE!
Delicious ice cream – and a hit with the weary Ragnar runners!
Ragnar runners perusing the wine section. I’m assuming they were done with their legs…
Just past Snowgoose Produce, take a left onto Best Road (It’s the best around!) and continue along the glorious backroads into La Conner. In addition to driving – or running – check out the Wiley Slough area for great hiking and bird-watching opportunities. Further along the way to La Conner, keep an eye out for the lovely Pleasant Ridge B&B off of Dodge Valley Road, complete with some very entertaining llamas out front. (We actually got to see quite a few llamas that day – a theme!)
Situated on the Swinomish Channel, La Conner is indisputably one of the most charming places in Washington State to visit. Founded in 1867, it is the oldest town in Skagit County. The historic downtown district is on the National Register of Historic Places and the entire town lends itself to an easy-going air of artful relaxation. Whether you’re hanging out on a boat, enjoying a cocktail on the waterfront or cozying up in one of the town’s many B&Bs, La Conner is the epicenter of slowing down and enjoying the ride. That it also happens to be host to the Daffodil Festival every March and is in close proximity of the daffodil and tulip fields are just more reasons to head to La Conner.
Beautiful sunset on the Swinomish Channel
Yep. I could live on a boat. And I would visit La Conner A LOT.
Arriving just before sunset, Lorrie and I took a peaceful stroll along the waterfront and enjoyed the boats coming and going in La Conner Marina. Our charcuterie plate and smoked old-fashioneds had worn off and we were getting vaguely hungry. BBQ sounded tasty, but we were sad to find the popular Whitey’s BBQ closed when we arrived as they’d sold out of the goods! Next time, Whitey’s BBQ… Next time. Grabbing some ice cream next door at La Conner Ice Cream Tower also seemed enticing, but as there was a line out the door, we were forced to scrap our initial plans. Hmmm… what to do…
Delicious BBQ in La Conner
Sigh… Sold out!
Not ones to suffer foodie defeat, we continued our stroll into the main part of downtown. We came across several excellent possibilities and eventually settled on theLa Conner Brewing Co., packed to the brim with customers enjoying local beer and food. Even though it was crowded, the atmosphere was relaxed, the service was great and the crab cakes and clam chowder were delicious. They have several tasty beers on tap, but their Pilsner balanced perfectly with my meal and it was a great way to round out the meal.
Delicious beer to be had…
Try the pilsner! (Note: The glass on the left, is actually the house white wine – BIG POUR!)
Great atmosphere at La Conner Brewing
The historic downtown area features many great dining options along with several places to enjoy a coffee, glass of wine or perhaps a delicious scone. Some of the excellent culinary possibilities when visiting the area:
Head to the La Conner Pub & Eatery for great food, tasty cocktails and lovely dining on the patio. The La Conner Pub & Eatery has been an important part of the downtown dining since the 70s and shows no sign of hanging up their apron.
For a lovely meal and waterfront dining, check out Nell Thorn Restaurant & Pub, located directly on the downtown waterfront. (Voted Best of Skagit 2019 – Fine Dining)
Featuring dishes based on the owner’s grandmother’s recipes, Anelia’s Kitchen & Stage serves delicious Polish cooking and regularly hosts live music in the historic downtown area. Pierogi and crepes – Yes, please!!
Enjoy farm-to-table dining at Seeds Bistro & Bar in historic downtown La Conner. Set inside one of oldest buildings in La Conner and home to the oldest Beech tree in Washington State, the atmosphere (they regularly feature local artists) and fresh ingredients make for an excellent dining experience.
Stop into the Lime Dock Building on the waterfront and hit up The Scone Lady Bakery for all manner of sweet and savory scones, cakes, pies, buns, homemade soups and more!
The La Conner Waterfront Café is, as advertised, located directly on the beautiful downtown waterfront. Dine outside or inside and enjoy a great home-style menu with lunch and dinner options.
For a great atmosphere in a cozy spot on the hill, check out The Oyster & Thistle Restaurant and Pub in historic downtown La Conner. Featuring local ingredients and a variety of fresh seafood, it’s a great place to spend a leisurely evening.
Located directly on the downtown waterfront, La Conner Sips offers wine tasting and small plates along with being a nice bottle shop. They also regularly feature live music. A great place to stop and enjoy a glass or two and take in the Swinomish Channel.
Tours of the Skagit Crest Vineyard & Winery in Sedro-Woolley are by appointment only, but you can sample their wines at their La Conner waterfront tasting room. I very much enjoy their 2016 Pinot Blanc. (Sat & Sun, 12-6pm)
The Skagit Cellars winery is located in Burlington, but their tasting room can be found at Seaport Landing in historic downtown La Conner. Enjoy wine tasting and small plates in this welcoming waterfront location. If you happen to be visiting the Chelan County area, they also have a tasting room in Manson.
A day trip to La Conner is always a good idea. That said, a weekend adventure (or longer) is an even better idea! There are countless lodging options in the area and Airbnb and VRBO are great places to start. If you’d like to stay in the heart of historic downtown La Conner, head to one of these lovely spots for the quintessential La Conner experience:
For well-appointed rooms with gorgeous views of the Swinomish Channel, check in at the La Conner Channel Lodge, located directly on the waterfront in historic downtown. Relax with an in-house spa treatment and enjoy a meal at their sister restaurant found a short walk up the hill, The Oyster & Thistle.
Built in 1882, the early Victorian-style home known as Katy’s Inn B&B is a beautiful and well-preserved tribute to a quieter time in Skagit County. (And it’s still pretty quiet!) Featuring four main suites/rooms, Katy’s offers delicious breakfasts along with comfortable lodging and is in easy walking distance of the beautiful waterfront area.
Located in the heart of historic downtown is the sister lodge of the La Conner Channel Lodge, the La Conner Country Inn. A stay at the charming and cozy Country Inn will leave you feeling very relaxed and quite possibly wanting to book a few extra days in La Conner…
Looking down the waterfront towards the La Conner Channel Lodge
The La Conner Country Inn in historic downtown
A girl’s gotta eat, but there are many more ways to enjoy the La Conner area. Sampling all of the amazing dining options can certainly keep one busy, but in case you’d like to branch out and maybe get a little exercise and appreciate the local Arts, keep these possibilities in mind:
Nasty Jack’s Antiques in the historic downtown area is a great place to spend a bit of time. Not only do they have an eclectic and very cool selection of antiques and collectibles, they also have an original Zoltar machine out front. Channel your inner Tom Hanks and give Zoltar a go!
Find out what Zoltar has to say about your future! Maybe you want to be big?
Just some of the finds at Nasty Jacks Antiques
Old kiddie rides in front of Nasty Jacks
Nasty Jacks Antiques – what a great place!
Learn all about La Conner and Skagit County at the Skagit County Historical Museum, located in downtown La Conner. Nothing like a good museum to inform the day!
Located in the heart of historic downtown La Conner, stop by the Museum of NW Art for a very interesting and well-curated look at the beauty of Northwest artistry and visual storytelling.
Come to the area in April for tulips, but get a jump on things with a visit to the amazing La Conner Daffodil Festival happening throughout March. In addition to glorious fields of daffodils, check out local Arts, food and more!
The Arts Alive event in November is an excellent way to enjoy the late fall beauty of the area and slip into the coziness of the colder months in La Conner. Arts, music, food – the whole downtown area gets involved! (Early November – keep an eye on the website for 2019 dates)
For a beautiful walk or relaxing picnic, head to Pioneer Park and take in the relaxing rhythm of the Swinomish Channel and its coastal living vibe.
If you’re a kayak enthusiast, grab your gear and paddle over to Hope Island Marine State Park. (Or take a motorboat! Note to self: Just one more reason I really need a boat…) Located between La Conner and Whidbey Island on Skagit Bay and accessible only by boat, it’s a beautiful place to escape the city hubbub and unwind at one of the four campsites. (Note: Part of the island is a nature preserve and guests are asked to stick to the marked trails.)
With its location directly off I-5 and easy access to gas, coffee and quick-bites, Burlington is a popular mid-trip stop. Because of these conveniences, I haven’t spent much time in Burlington proper. Truth be told, outside of occasional visits to the Outlet Shoppes at Burlington or driving through on my way to the mountains, I haven’t taken time to enjoy the many charms of the tiny town. After now having more deeply explored the area, however, I will happily be visiting more often. (I am also happy to report triumphantly book-ending my Skagit County winnings while in Burlington. As the result of one of my ‘quick stops’ – this time at the Burlington Haggen’s grocery store – my beverage purchase also included an impromptu scratch ticket… Which yielded another fifty dollar win! There was now a hole burning through both of my pockets!)
The historic downtown core of Burlington is a great place to visit and even if you’re only driving through on your way up SR-20, it’s a fine place to grab a meal or a tasty pint. (And to spend fifty dollars!) Some of the places and events to enjoy on your next Burlington visit:
Fidalgo Bay Coffee Roasters makes a great cup of coffee! Based in Burlington with several locations in western Washington and a tasting room in downtown Seattle, they are an excellent way to fuel your Skagit County adventures.
Located in historic downtown Burlington, Café Burlington serves classic diner fare in a classic diner scene. They were already closed for the day when I stopped by, but I plan on trying their award-winning clam chowder next time I’m in the area.
The Chuckanut Brewery & Kitchen – South Hut location is an excellent place to grab a bite from one of the rotating food trucks or a pint of their delicious Kolsch on tap. (The North Hut is in Bellingham) Family friendly!
If you’re a lover of epic Bloody Marys and delicious brunch fare, head to the Trainwreck Bar & Grill in historic downtown Burlington. Try the brisket fritters! (Voted Best of Skagit 2019 – Best Brunch/Bloody Mary.
Work off all that beer you drank during Skagit Beer Week at the annual Skagit Valley Tulip Run. (April 6th) And then drink some more beer to celebrate finishing the race! The circle of life. Hakuna Matata!
Make your way to the Burlington Visitor Center in historic downtown Burlington for the long-running Berry Dairy Days. (June 14-16) Local food, art, music, fireworks and more!
Head back to the Burlington Visitor Center in July for the weekly Burlington Summer Nights Concerts. (July 12,19,26) (Historical note: The visitor center is a replica of the original Burlington Great Northern Depot Train Station (c. 1890s)
Next up on my North Cascades Highway trek was the lovely Sedro-Woolley. There are several ways to hit up the Burlington and Sedro-Woolley areas and I took SR-20 off of I-5. The drive from Whatcom County and the north via SR-9 is a fine option and the drive south on SR-9 from Snohomish County is also a very scenic path to travel. The important take-away from all this is: Any way you take to get to Sedro-Woolley will be scenic and worth it.
Coming up from the South on SR-9 will give you access to many wonderful outdoor opportunities and a glimpse into the smaller communities of western Washington. In conjunction with these communities lie several great camping, hiking and fishing prospects along the way. Just a few of the areas to explore:
Easily accessible from both I-5 and SR-9, Lake McMurray is a great place to cast your rod and do a bit of trout fishing.
Just to the east of Lake McMurray, you’ll find Lake Cavanaugh. This small community loves their lake and regularly hosts local events in celebration. Check out their 35th Annual Fun Fest featuring an Arts and craft fair, golf tournament and more. (8/31 – 9/2, 2019) Check out one of the local cabins for rent on Airbnb or VRBO and bring your gear for a bit of fishing.
Heading further north on SR-9, stop in at the little town of Big Lake. Fuel up for your fishingexpedition with great food from the Big Lake Bar & Grill or stock up on groceries and delicious chicken & waffles or biscuits & gravy from the very cool Big Lake Grocery.
Just before SR-9 meets up with SR-20 in Sedro-Woolley, you’ll come to the small community of Clear Lake. Home to Clear Lake Beach Park with its fishing, picnicking and swimming opportunities, it’s a great place to spend a relaxing afternoon. Stop by Evelyn’s Tavern for a tasty meal after your day on the beach.
Whatever path you’ve followed to Sedro-Woolley, there are many excellent places to check out once you’ve arrived. The historic downtown core plays host to many events throughout the year and there are a plethora of great restaurants, bars and shops to enjoy while in the area. One of the more interestingly named towns in Washington, Sedro-Woolley was formed from a combination of rival small towns in the late 1800s and early 1900s. Pay a visit to the Sedro-Woolley Museum and learn more about the town’s unique history and ties to coal mining and railroad expansion.
While visiting the Sedro-Woolley area, you’ll of course want to sample the local specialties. Just a few of the great options for your trip:
Situated in a tiny train caboose as you arrive in town, Skagit Valley Burger Express is an excellent place to stop for a burger. Made with grass-fed, naturally raised beef, their burgers are juicy and filling. Try the Brunch Burger with onion rings! (Voted Best of Skagit Valley 2019 – Burger)
Stop by the very cool local co-op, The Woolley Market and enjoy craft beer, wine and cider taps, live music and delicious deli food. Located in the heart of historic downtown.
For the classic drive-in burger experience, head to Hal’s Drive-in in the historic downtown area. They’ve been grilling up classics since 1964 – that’s a pretty great track record!
Featuring a great pub menu and tasty beverages, the Iron Mountain Bar and Grill in the historic downtown area is a great place to stop in after a day of hiking or tooling around local-area roads.
If you’re looking for someplace for a date night, head to the lovely Liberty Bistro for great ambiance and delicious farm-to-table lunch and dinner. Located in historic downtown Sedro-Woolley.
Start planning for next year’s Sedro-Woolley Pub Crawl. A relatively new tradition in the downtown area, this year’s event was on May 11th. Keep an eye out – and a pint glass ready!
Make plans to check out the annual Blast from the Past festivities in early June. Food, events, live music and a Blast of Color 5k Run make for a great few days in downtown Sedro-Woolley. Each year they roll the way-back machine fifty years, with this year’s celebration featuring the esteemed year of 1969.
As you head further east towards the mountains, there are many places well worth visiting and many tasty treats to sample. My first stop out of Sedro-Woolley proper was the Eagle Haven Winery, tucked off beautiful country roads, in the heart of gorgeous farmlands. There really is so much to be said for pulling off the main thoroughfare and wandering through the backroads. You just never know who you’re going to meet and what you’re going to learn. (Pro tip: If you do decide to traipse off onto the backroads, be they through farmland, mountains or beyond, tell someone where you’re going. Especially if you’re a fan of solo adventuring like I am. Sporty Spice is pretty reliable and AAA is great, but you just never know…)
The impetus for pulling into the winery was a) it was a winery with good reviews and b) a roadside sign said they were hosting a vendor craft show that day. Wine and artisan crafts? I’m in! As I pulled into the winery parking area by the vineyards, I was met by a very friendly dog and one of the winery employees. She very kindly told me about the event and welcomed me into the tasting room. My visit was off to a very relaxing and easy going start.
There were a few people enjoying wine in the tasting room, but the majority of the crowds were in the vendor fair area. It seemed like a good time to take advantage of the tasting area, so I saddled up and dove into a bit of tasting. Sally, the well-informed and conversational tasting steward was very helpful and patiently assisted me in sampling all the wines that suited my personal tastes – and a few more. (I very much enjoyed their Gewürztraminer and Siegerrebe selections.) Through our conversation, I learned she was a transplant from Seattle and absolutely loved her new surroundings and the pace of life outside the city. In addition, she told me all about local farms and who to hit up for the best meats, coffee and more. It was another mini master class and I loved it! The unexpected connections and stories I pick up along the way are hands down one of the best things about traveling.
If you happen to be in the area, definitely stop in and do a tasting. On summer weekends, they also feature a concert series. Say hi to the dog, check out the hairy cows across the street and enjoy the beautiful grounds. There’s a reason they were voted Best of Skagit, 2019 – Winery! And if you’re in the market for delicious, organically raised meats, stop by nearby Baldham Farms and visit with Miriam.
I can neither confirm nor deny that I tried all of those wines…
A very enjoyable wine tasting experience, indeed!
Hairy cows – Across the street from the winery.
This apple wine was delicious!
Delicious wine offerings at Eagle Haven
A few more great places and areas to check out as you make your way east on SR-20 and the surrounding backroads:
Eggs, whole chicken, cuts of beef and delicious pork are what you’ll find if you stop by the Skagit River Ranch Farm Store. (Open Saturdays from 10am -5pm)
High on my NW bucket list is a stay at the Willowbrook Manor English Tea House & Chamomile Farm. Stay in the manor or check out their loft or amazing outdoor lodging option. I’m planning on a weekend stay in the near future with the addition of one of their ‘tea and tour’ adventures. High tea followed by a bike ride in the country – sign me up! One of the more intriguing options is a ride over to the nearby Northern State Ghost Town, located in the lost town of Cokedale. (On the National Register of Historic Places) Opened in 1912, Northern State Mental Hospital was the state’s largest facility for the mentally ill, but is now spookily abandoned. The buildings are closed to the public, but there are many trails to explore in what is now called the Northern State Recreation Area.
If 4-wheeled vehicles aren’t your jam, consider walking, biking or saddling your horse up for a trip on the Cascade Trail. A crushed rock trail, paralleling SR-20 for 22.5 miles, it goes from Sedro-Woolley all the way to Concrete. It follows the route of an abandoned railway from 1900!
As I continued my adventure into the North Cascades on SR-20, I was feeling somewhat hungry. Being in the mountains was inspiring me to locate burgers and beer and I was happily assuaged on both counts in the tiny town of Birdsview. The incredibly cool yurt of the Birdsview Brewing Company welcomes you in with tasty craft beer and delicious pub-style food. They’re family friendly and were voted Best of Skagit 2019 – Best Destination on Hwy 20. (Closed Mondays, beer garden is +21) Just a little further down the road is the excellent, old school Birdsview Diner / Birdsview Burgers. I had the bacon mac-n-cheese burger with fries and FRY SAUCE – and a Birdsview Brewing Co. “Ditsy Blonde” beer. Delicious!! Next time I’m in the area, I plan on renting a cabin at Raser State Park – where I will be conveniently close to more mac-n-cheese burgers…
Step into the Birdsview Brewing Co. yurt for a cold one!
Very cool decor inside Birdsview Brewing Co. They serve pretty tasty beer, too!
Classic sign at Birdsview Burgers / Diner off of SR-20
Birdsview Burgers / Diner – A tiny spot off SR-20 with big tastes!
Great decor inside the Birdsview Burgers / Diner
Cement and saws!
This mac-n-cheese & bacon burger was out of this world!! (And that wasn’t Hellbent beer – it was the Ditsy Blonde from Birdsview Brewing Co.)
Continuing east on the stunning SR-20 will bring you to the small, but iconic town of Concrete. Known for its importance in the cement industry from the early 1900s to 1969, Concrete garnered more recent spotlight as the setting for award-winning author, Tobias Wolff’s novel This Boy’s Life, centered on his teen years in the area. It later became a film starring an amazing cast, including Robert De Niro, Leonardo DiCaprio and Ellen Barkin. The ‘Welcome to Concrete’ lettering seen on the famous cement silos as you enter town was actually added in 1992 for the film.
Concrete possesses several entries on the National Register of Historic Places and a visit to the Concrete Heritage Museum is a great place to learn more about the area. They also have a wonderful and very informative self-guided walking tour to help you explore the area. (Museum open Saturdays, noon – 4pm, May 25th – September 28th – 2019 season) Be sure to take a stroll across the Henry Thompson Bridge (c. 1918) and marvel at what at the time was the longest single-span concrete bridge in the world. The bridge was completely rehabilitated in the early 2000s and reopened in 2004. The view of the river and valley below is absolutely beautiful. After crossing the bridge, drive further up the road for great views of the Lower Baker Dam. (c. 1926) (Take a dam tour!) A drive still further north on Baker River Road will bring you to Lake Shannon and some excellent swimming, fishing and boating opportunities.
Take a stroll across the iconic Henry Thompson Bridge
Beautiful light fixtures on the 1918 bridge
Once the longest single-span concrete bridge in the world!
The beautiful Baker River flowing below the bridge
While taking time to explore the Concrete area, you’ll need to keep up your strength. There are several great restaurants in the area that will happily assist you on your quest – and several great places to check out after you’re properly fueled up:
Located directly off SR-20, Cascade Burgers serves up great burgers and more in a 50s drive-in style.
Serving tasty, dedicated gluten-free fare, the 5 B’s Bakery serves tasty baked goods along with breakfast and lunch. (7am – 5pm, closed Tuesdays)
For delicious, hand-crafted pizzas, sandwiches, salads and more, stop by Annie’s Pizza Station, located directly off SR-20. Family operated since 1994 and housed in a former gas station.
Perks Espresso & Deli offers great coffee, breakfast options and baked goods. Open daily from 5am to 2pm – directly off SR-20.
The Concrete Theatre has been an integral part of the Concrete community since 1923. Renovated and re-opened in 2009, they host first-run films as well as town events and are an important part of the annual Concrete Ghost Walk. ‘Lots of spooky ghost sightings over the years in Concrete! (October 5,12,19,26)
When I randomly pulled into a parking spot in front of the Baker Hotel, I was greeted by an employee of the hotel who was outside enjoying the sun. We ended up in a great conversation in which she told me all about the history of the town, the hotel (It’s haunted!) and gave me several excellent tips about what to see and do while in town. The locals always know best!
Downtown historic Concrete and the Concrete Theatre
The local waterin’ hole!
Stop in for coffee and a breakfast sandwich. Open early!
Minus a few of the cars, it looks like time has stood still in Concrete
Delicious pizzas at Annie’s
The Mt. Baker Hotel – it’s haunted!
Concrete offers many excellent ways to celebrate the town and all of its rich history and surrounding beauty. Some of the cool events happening throughout the year:
Celebrate the history of the area with a parade, pie-eating contests, chainsaw carving and more at the Concrete Cascade Days. This annual event happens over the weekend of August 17-18 and is fun for the whole family.
Celebrating the amazing bald eagle, the Skagit Eagle Festival highlights all things raptor during the height of the eagle-watching season. Including the combined areas of Concrete, Rockport and Marblemount, it’s a great way to learn about these most majestic creatures. (Every weekend in January) On a related note, the Skagit River Bald Eagle Natural Area Preserve is an important part of the North Cascades area dedicated to studying and preserving the bald eagle habitat.
Celebrate the beauty of the area and pitch a tent at the nearby Sauk Park Campground and enjoy the beautiful Sauk River or check out one of the lovely hikes.
Just next door to the police station in historic downtown Concrete
Old buildings on the historic Concrete Byway
The scoop on the Henry Thompson Bridge and historic byway
The old Concrete Police Station in historic downtown Concrete
Continuing the drive on SR-20 brings you further into the striking landscapes of the North Cascades territory. The towns get smaller and the opportunities for gas and food become more sparse. It’s always a good idea to take advantage of stops whenever they come available – especially in the colder months.
There are countless outdoor pursuits to be found along SR-20 as you head east towards the tiny communities of Rockport and Marblemount. Just a few of the very worthy options:
Put together a picnic and head for Rockport State Park, just off of SR-20. They don’t allow camping, but the beautiful old-growth trees and lovely hiking trails more than make up for it. Check out the nearby Sauk Mountain Trail when in the area and revel in the glorious views, flora and fauna. A great way to reach these areas from the Darrington area is via SR-530 – a beautiful drive!
Sigh… Tall trees!
Lush moss in the trees of Rockport State Park
Bizarre bulbous root growth at Rockport State Park
The tall trees of Rockport State Park
Between May and October, stop by the Cascadian Farm Home Farm or their roadside stand on SR-20 and enjoy delicious organic produce, dairy treats and more. Cascadian Farms has cultivated a well-respected and hugely successful line of products over the years. Stop by the farm and see where it all started!
Enjoy some delicious organic ice cream in the sun!
Ridiculously charming – AND delicious! Directly off SR-20
Take a break and relax in the garden!
Pull off along the beautiful Sauk River at the Sutter Creek Rest Area and enjoy the quiet peace of the Skagit River. The surrounding mountains and farmland are stunning and I truly think I could’ve sat there all day taking it in… And be sure to keep an eye out for bald eagles! That’s right, be an eagle eye. Heh.
To extend your stay along the Skagit River, pitch a tent or roll in with the RV to Howard Miller Steelhead State Park. Open year-round, they have many campsites and provide great access to fishing, hiking and more. Be sure to visit the non-profit Bald Eagle Interpretive Center and learn more about the area’s most revered residents, bald eagles and salmon. (Open weekends from the first weekend of December to the last weekend of January, 10am – 4pm)
Eagle sighting at Sutter Creek rest area
The beautiful Skagit River
I could’ve hung out here all day.
Take a break on the banks of the Skagit River
Amazing views from the Sutter Creek rest area
Rounding out the Skagit County adventures along SR-20 brings us to the entrance of North Cascades National Park and neighboring Whatcom County. For this portion of the trip, I was joined by one of my very dearest friends – and her entire family! In addition to cruising the SR-20 corridor, we took a cruise on spectacular Diablo Lake and did a bit of exploring in the North Cascades National Park. (Goofy Sasquatch hoodies may also have been purchased.) Many of these adventures and more will be covered in my upcoming Whatcom County adventure. Stay tuned!
In the meantime, before continuing on towards Whatcom County and eastern Washington or turning back to the western parts, consider these scenic options:
The Hidden Lake Peak Lookout (On the National Historic Register) and trail offer beautiful views overlooking the North Cascades and Glacier Peak Wilderness. If you plan on camping in the backcountry, you’ll need a permit, but no permit is needed for staying in the lookout. (First come, first serve to stay in the lookout.)
If you can’t decide between awesome American diner fare and excellent Korean dishes, you won’t have to at Mondo’s Restaurant off of SR-20 in the Marblemount area. Great food, quirky décor and good service!
Located on SR-20, just before you enter North Cascades National Park, the Buffalo Run Inn (c. 1889) offers rustic dining featuring bison, beef and elk and cozy lodging to the weary traveler.
That’s a lot of rock to move! (Side note: Beth didn’t honk the horn when we drove through. I’m still sad.)
And with my trek deep into the heart of the North Cascades and SR-20 coming to a close, I will leave you to dream of your own Skagit County adventure. You’ll definitely need more than a day to explore its rich offerings, but I can assure you, it will be one of the most amazing Washington State adventures you’ve ever taken. Islands, mountains, epic fields of flowers and bountiful farmlands stocked with delicious foods and welcoming residents – what’s not to love about Skagit County? Who knows, maybe I’ll see you tiptoeing through the tulips come next April!
The St. Martin-St. Francis Episcopal Church near the Sutter Creek rest area
Looking back over my lifetime in Washington State, there are many places I know I’ve taken for granted. I’ll initially contribute some of that to being young and without means – or transportation. Unfortunately, there was also a fair amount of time spent in Eastern Washington, for instance, where I really wish I’d given it more of a chance. The grass is literally greener on the western side of the state, but that doesn’t mean there are lesser prospects for finding beauty and adventure. Every time I go back to visit the “other” side of the state, I am constantly blown away by the full palette of opportunity. (A huge part of this travel project is not only to share the beauty of this state with others, but to ensure I never again take any part of it for granted.)
This oversight has never been the case where Snohomish County is concerned. I’ve now lived in Western Washington for quite a while and have spent several years straddling the border between King and Snohomish Counties. (Bothell represent!) I can say with total honesty I’ve never gotten bored with the area and have never been at a loss for something to see or do – or eat! One of my favorite, lazy-weekend activities is to jump in my car in search of random backroads and tasty treats. I am never disappointed with the hidden gems and unexpected opportunities that cross my path while wandering around Snohomish County.
I’m going to divide my Snohomish County adventures into two sections; the “mountain side” and the “sea side,” with Part I tackling the mountainous portion of the county. Both sections are spectacular and contain an amazing amount of adventure potential, with the overall county being very accessible from most parts of the state, at most times of the year. (The mountainous areas do pose a few more obstacles during the winter.) If you happen to live in the western part of the state as I do, Snohomish County is even more accessible. You very well might live in Snohomish County, considering it is the third most populous county in Washington State, behind King and Pierce Counties. (And 13th when ranked by size.) For extra coverage on Part I, I’ve consulted with a couple locals – AND brought along my long-time adventuring buddy (and WA State transplant) Beth, to help me explore some of the backroads. All the coverage, all the time – Snohomish County is BIG!
As it is one of Washington’s most populous counties, many people are familiar with the beauty within its boundaries. That might not seem apparent, however, once you make your way towards the mountains of Snohomish County. Just heading a few miles out of Bothell towards Monroe takes you away from the urban sprawl and into idyllic, rural farmlands and foothills – often without another soul in sight. It is completely possible within a few hours of exploration to experience the vibrant pulse of city life, serene suburban neighborhoods, gorgeous coastal shorelines, vital farmlands, sweeping forests and towering volcanic masterpieces. Snohomish County is like a ‘greatest hits’ tour of Washington state!
Since a large part ofBothell is in King County, I’ll be covering it later in the project. (I’m saving King County for the end, on account of it being quite a behemoth.) The area of Bothell heading towards Mill Creek is generally Snohomish County, so that’s where I’m starting. And since that portion of the county sits on the east side of two of its main south-north thoroughfares, I-5 and I-405, I’ll be heading off in the direction of the beautiful Cascade mountain range.
When heading to Mill Creek, I typically drive north on the Bothell-Everett Highway (SR-527), through the Bothell and Canyon Park areas. It’s a main route and can be a useful alternative to I-5 and I-405. Heading through these areas, you’ll be met with a corridor of commerce with many great options for shopping, dining and general day-to-day needs.
A few of my go-to spots along the way to Mill Creek:
If you’re looking for a great Bloody Mary with brunch or a tasty burger, the Crystal Creek Café in Bothell, just off I-405 is a good place to stop. In fact, you could pretty much just have the bloody Mary – it’s a meal in and of itself!
You’d never guess this unassuming sports bar on Bothell-Everett Highway would have a kick-ass, all-you-can-eat Dungeness crab feed on Monday nights, but they certainly do! Check out Thrasher’s Corner Sports Pub for all your sports bar – and Dungeness crab feed needs.
The Original Pancake House chain is always a great stop for traditional pancakes as well as their amazing Dutch-baby oven pancakes. I’m also particularly fond of their homemade corned beef hash. Mmmm… Located right off the Bothell-Everett Highway.
Local favorite Burgermaster, with their locally-raised, grass-fed and hormone-free beef, is one of my favorite places to get a quick burger – all from the comfort of the front seat of your ride. And those fries… And that tartar sauce… And the malts! Dreamy. (This location is conveniently situated directly off Bothell-Everett Highway)
Drive on in!
Dine from the front seat of your ride!
Burgermaster menu – AND a Batmobile!
Oprah loves it – and so do I! Ezell’s Famous Chicken is delicious. And so are their mashed potatoes and gravy, rolls and mac-n-cheese… (Uhhh, I’ll be right back – need to take a trip to Ezell’s) Bothell-Everett Highway for the win!
I’ve got a punch-card for Patty’s Egg Nest – and I am PROUD! Their Swedish pancakes are glorious. I occasionally venture off into their other breakfast masterpieces, but I’m a pretty devoted fan of the Swedish pancakes. Sigh… ALSO right off Bothell-Everett Highway.
Heading into Mill Creek proper via the Bothell-Everett Highway, the area makes way for peaceful neighborhoods and parks, ample shopping areas and a great variety of dining options. Mill Creek is a pleasant community and is perfectly situated for commuting both into the Seattle area as well as locations on the ‘Eastside.’ (Kirkland, Redmond, Bellevue) In recent years, theMill Creek Town Center has brought much commerce into the central area of town. There are quite a few great options to check out in this area. Some of my favorites:
In need of a delicious Bundt cake? WHO ISN’T?? Check out Nothing Bundt Cakes to handle all your Bundt cake needs. Bundt cakes always remind me of this scene in My Big Fat Greek Wedding.
Offering regular tasting events, small plates and a great Washington State wine selection, de Vine Wines is a cozy spot to check out. (Closed Sunday/Monday)
The classic UW staple, University Book Store has a Mill Creek location! A great place to grab a book and do some learnin’.
Central Market is one of my favorite locally-run grocery stores. I typically hit up the Shoreline location, but the Mill Creek location is pretty spectacular. An excellent seafood section, beautiful local produce, an amazing deli (the cheese!) and hard to find international items are just a few of my favorite aspects of this market.
If you’re a fan of maple bars AND bacon, you can have them at the same time at FROST This place makes delicious donuts as well as cupcakes and macrons. I won’t lie. I dream about their bacon maple bar…