I spent my formative years in the eastern part of Washington. Specifically, in the dry, desert climes of Pasco, which is part of the Tri-Cities. A very key route in and out of the Tri-Cities is US-395, which is where my most recent adventure to Spokane County begins. Come along as I journey through this … Read more I Ate the State – Spokane County
I’ve always been intrigued by Iceland and my interest was further fueled after an unexpected layover en route to the UK a few years ago. Sweeping snowfields, volcanoes, waterfalls, the Northern Lights, dramatic weather, trolls, fairy tales – all the things! Fast forward to today and I’ve now officially visited Iceland two times. I plan … Read more I Ate the State: Special Edition – Iceland 2024 (and 2021!)
Welcome back to the adventures of I Ate the State! It’s been a while and I’m happy to be back in the driver’s seat. One of the two oldest counties in Washington, Lewis County is brimming with history and beauty. The indigenous peoples of the area have called it home for millennia, treasuring its bountiful … Read more I Ate the State – Lewis County
Greetings! Welcome to the largest county in Washington State, Okanogan County. Seriously, this county is ENORMOUS! In fact, I’d go as far to say it is ginormous – and filled with an equally large bevy of adventure-filled opportunities. I am absolutely blown away by the size and scale of the county every time I’m lucky … Read more I Ate the State – Okanogan County
Happy New Year from I Ate the State! I’m quite certain it’s going to be a good one – and chock full of Washington State adventure. To start the year off in coastal style, I’d like to share my recent adventures to the beautiful shores of Island County. Comprised primarily of Whidbey and Camano Islands […]
For such a tiny area, Wahkiakum County packs quite a punch. Located in the bottom southwest corner of the state, this small swatch of Washington has been key to pivotal moments in not only the history of the state, but of the country. For its part in the iconic journey of Lewis and Clark, Wahkiakum County provided the first views of the Pacific Ocean to the weary explorers. Also indispensable to their expedition was the mighty Columbia River, which flows all the along the county’s border with Oregon. Most importantly, had the area and its native peoples not been helpful and accommodating to the Lewis and Clark expedition, the United States might not have the same layout as it does today.
Named for Chief Wakaiyakam of the Chinook Tribe, Wahkiakum County is the second least populated county in the state and the third smallest by land area. With its lush, fertile farmland and foothills fed by the Columbia River, the area has long supported local residents with its bounty. Thefirst salmon cannery along the Columbia River sprang up around 1865 and inspired many similar operations. Life on the river has always been vibrant and the area’s close proximity to the Pacific Ocean has provided a strategic location for trade and exploration through the ages.
The gorgeous Columbia River as viewed from Altoona-Pillar Rock Road
Just across the county border lies the appropriately named County Line Park. Situated directly along the Columbia River, it provides a nice rest stop and picnic location for a day visit as well as overnight RV camping. On a clear day, Mount St. Helens can be seen in the distance and the views of the river are outstanding. Having grown up mere blocks from the Columbia River as it flows through the Tri-Cities, I have a special place in my heart for its waters. I was incredibly happy to make my first stop in Wahkiakum County along its beautiful shores.
Heading west on SR-4 near the Wahkiakum County border
County Line Park and the mighty Columbia River
Clouds on clouds! It was a beautifully calm morning on the river…
Camp right on the Columbia!
Traveling further west along SR-4, the road continues to wind along the river, but slowly gains a small bit of elevation. Perched along the resulting bluffs and overlooking the river, beautiful homes with private driveways peak through the trees. Not much further, the lovely river town of Cathlamet awaits visitors to both Wahkiakum County and nearby Oregon alike.
While it might not seem very big, Cathlamet is the largest town in Wahkiakum County and serves as the county seat. It is a hub to the area and host to the Wahkiakum County Courthouse and K-12 school district for the entire county as well as a WSU Extension campus. The area has long been home to the Kathlamet and Chinook Peoples and what was once a large village, was visited by Lewis and Clark during their travels. Chief Wakaiyakam, the county’s namesake, is buried in the Cathlamet Cemetery.
Welcome to Cathlamet!
The Wahkiakum County Court House in Cathlamet
Since 1891!
Not only is Cathlamet the heart of the county, it is also an inspiration to many artists and artistic endeavors. Films such as Snow Falling on Cedars (1999 – starring Ethan Hawke) and Men of Honor (2000 – starring Robert De Niro and Cuba Gooding Jr.) have taken advantage of the beautiful surroundings. Local Tsuga Gallery features beautiful work from local artists and musicians and well-known Jazz musician Hadley Caliman called Cathlamet home for many years. He loved the area so much, in fact, he was willing to commute to his faculty position at Seattle’s Cornish College of the Arts during his long tenure at the school. (I had the pleasure of studying with him during my own time at Cornish!)
The history and beauty of the Cathlamet area runs deep and there are many ways in which to experience it. Simply walking around the quaint downtown area is a great way to start and can provide a great afternoon of exploration. If you happen to be in town on the weekend between May and October, stop by the Wahkiakum Historical Society Museum to investigate the county’s rich heritage. Admire the river view from the steps of the beautiful Pioneer Church (c. 1895 – On the National Register of Historic Places) and walk down to the waterfront area to enjoy the river up close. The area is particularly beautiful in the spring and summer, but Cathlamet is a charming place to explore any time of year.
Bustling downtown Cathlamet
City Docks in downtown Cathlamet (c. 1905)
Tug boats on the Columbia
Cathlamet’s industrial past
The stately Pioneer Church in downtown Cathlamet
Riverlife in Cathlamet
Just one of the scenes in downtown Cathlamet
Beautiful brickwork in the downtown area
Not quite sure about that ladder…
For shopping opportunities stop in at Daisy Chain Floral for lovely flower arrangements and unique gifts. If you’re in the area around the holidays, head to the Lighted Christmas Parade & Holiday Market at Mile 38 Brewery and stock up on goods from the talented local artisans. (Dec 14, 3-9pm)
Since I’d left early in the morning to make a good day of it down in Wahkiakum, I’d skipped breakfast in my rush. (I did stop for coffee, however. I’m not a monster.) By the time I made it to Cathlamet, I was feeling pretty challenged and a good breakfast sounded fabulous. I was in great luck when I walked into Patty Cakes Café & Roasting, located on Main Street. I enjoyed a couple cups of their great coffee as well as a delicious scramble with bacon, Italian-blend cheese and mushrooms. To top it off, I splurged and tried one of their Patty-cakes. I’m not normally a pancake fan (unless they’re Swedish with lingonberries and butter), but the menu mentioned a 100-year old sourdough starter in their pancakes and I was intrigued. For the record, I’m very glad I tried them as they were delicious!
Great coffee at Patty Cakes downtown
Made with 100 year-old sourdough starter!
A delicious scramble at Patty Cakes!
Cathlamet is a fairly small area, but they do have a few tasty food options. Some of the possibilities for your next Cathlamet visit:
Maria’s Place, located on Main Street offers scratch-made Mexican cuisine as well as a full bar and early morning breakfast every day. (Open daily at 7am)
Not just for pizza, The Pizza Mill serves great pizza along with burgers, sandwiches, salads and more. (Closed Sundays)
Stop in at the Mile 38 Brewery if you’re in the market for a great pint or two. (They also have house-made root beer!) If you happen to be moored at the nearby marina or staying at the campsite, they’re perfectly located for a relaxing break. Bring your own food or arrange for delivery from a local restaurant. (Wednesday – Saturday, 4-9pm and Sundays, 2-6pm – Family and dog friendly)
Breakfast, lunch and dinner at Maria’s in downtown
Grab a tasty pint at Mile 38 Brewery
If you’re thinking of staying in the Cathlamet area or perhaps stopping in during your next river expedition, check out these great options:
The downtown Hotel Cathlamet (c. 1926) features comfortable rooms and a lovely lobby and tavern in this historic building. They also offer a continental breakfast, a large patio and a freezer to store all of those fish you just caught!
If you’d prefer to stay on your boat with all those fish you just caught, cruise into the charming Elochoman Marina and enjoy an idyllic riverside stay. They also have great cabins, yurts, tent sites and restrooms/showers. I have the fondest memories of boating along the Columbia River with my Uncle Ron when I was young. We pulled into similar marinas along the river and I always dreamed of owning my own boat someday. It’s STILL ON MY LIST. Soon…
The lovely Cathlamet Hotel in downtown
The Elochoman Marina in Cathlamet
The Columbia River and adjoining sloughs are a boater’s dream!
Rental cabins at the marina
After my lovely breakfast and jaunt around downtown Cathlamet, it was time to check out the wilds of nearby Puget Island. Actually a series of islands, including the fittingly named Little Island, the area can be reached from the Julia Butler Hansen Bridge via SR-409. The islands are a goldmine of gorgeous country roads and farmland. I had a mission to check out the entire county that day, but I could’ve happily spent all day on the tiny island, aimlessly driving around and taking in the scenery.
Looking over to Puget Island from Cathlamet
Looking out over the Columbia from the Julia Butler Hansen Bridge
Gorgeous scenery on Puget Island
There are indeed many farms in the area and it’s an important part of the Wahkiakum County agricultural scene, but the island also fulfills another important purpose. Traveling south on SR-409 will quickly bring you to the Wahkiakum County Ferry, located on the south side of the island. The last ferry operating on the lower Columbia, this tiny gem ferries passengers and vehicles across the river to nearby Westport, Oregon 365 days a year, all day long. Should you arrive early to the Cathlamet side, grab a spot in adjacent Buffington Park and Heritage Area for a picnic and information about the area’s history and contributions. (Note: No debit or credit cards accepted for ferry – cash/check only)
Check out tiny Buffington Park and Heritage Site while you wait for the ferry to Oregon
Hanging out by the ferry dock
Ferry deets!
The ferry dock and long line-up!
Looking over to Oregon from the ferry dock
Sasquatch welcomes you to Washington!
Heading back towards Cathlamet, I randomly took a few of the backroads around the island. Amazing views, sweeping farmland, hidden sloughs and beautiful scenery greeted me around every turn in the road. I initially took a right on East Little Island Road off of SR-409 and drove around the eastern tip of the island until it brought be back around to SR-409. Lovely! Puget Island is one of the most peaceful, tranquil areas I’ve visited and I fully intend on returning for further exploration.
More places to explore on Puget Island for my – and your – next journey:
Located off the lovely East Little Island Road, Little Island Creamery produces delicious artisan cheese and butter out of their beautifully restored dairy farm. (10am to 4pm, daily – Self-serve fridge available)
If you’re looking for a cozy place to stay while exploring Puget Island, check out Stockhouse’s Farm & Rog’s Retreat Guest Cottage. As part of their farm operation, they also host a weekly farm market on Fridays from 3pm – 6pm. (May – October)
Should you feel like pitching a tent or lying out on the deck of your boat and stargazing, head to South Welcome Slough Campground & Moorage for a peaceful stay on a beautiful river slough. They also have a cozy lodge available should you want to take your adventure indoors.
Sweeping farmland and beautiful scenery on Puget Island
Beautiful farmland off of East Little Island Road
The Columbia River and overlooking bluffs as seen from East Little Island Road
Beautiful bluffs of the Columbia River
Such a peaceful river scene from East Little Island Road
There are so many hidden sloughs coming off the Columbia (as seen from East Little Island Road)
Norse Hall on Puget Island
Heading west on SR-4, the road winds and meanders inland of the river as it flows towards the Pacific Ocean. The drive is gorgeous and there are more than a few photo ops to be enjoyed. Along the way, the Lewis and Clark National Wildlife Refuge can be found off of SR-4 and Steamboat Slough Road. (Note: The refuge extends across the river into Oregon.) There isn’t a lot of hiking due to marshes, but you can boat around the islands. An amazing ecosystem awaits your exploration along with the opportunity to travel in the “steps” of Lewis and Clark. A few words of caution from the website:If your boat gets stuck in the mud, you’ll have to wait for the tides to return to loosen it. (Eeesh!)
Just a little further west on SR-4 will bring you to the sprawling Julia Butler Hansen National Wildlife Refuge (It also extends across the river into Oregon) It is a huge ecosystem of birds, fish, deer, marshlands, river sloughs and more and is absolutely worth a visit. Any of the viewing areas are great for a quick visit, but check out the White Tail Trail and connecting Steamboat Slough Road for a beautiful and serene afternoon.
The Julia Butler Hansen Refuge for the Columbian White-tailed Deer
I didn’t see any deer, but the views were beautiful
Sweeping views and beautiful landscapes!
Wahkiakum County is gorgeous!
Big, beautiful trees at the wildlife preserve
After taking in the lovely scene at the wildlife refuge, I continued on SR-4 towards the bucolic, riverside town of Skamokawa. (Pronounced SKA-MA-KA-WAY and means ‘Smoke on the water’ in Chinook.) Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, Skamokawa has long been an important outpost in the area. Until 1917, there were no roads to the area and travel was made primarily by boat using the river and connecting sloughs. The majority of homes were built on or facing the water and had docks and boardwalks connecting them to other parts of the village. Steamboats and tugboats were common in the area and greatly contributed to the local salmon fishing and logging commerce. It was quite a bustling area in its heyday.
The idyllic Brooks Slough on the way to Skamokawa
Makes me want to hop on a steamboat
Looks like that boat has been there for a while…
For a great overview of the town and its history, don’t miss a stop at the Riverlife Interpretive Center and museum. (c. 1894 – Originally known as the Central School) The displays are well-curated and showcase many examples of life in early Skamokawa as well as spectacular views of the town and river. On my recent visit, I had the pleasure of meeting Pam Emery, the president of the Friends of Skamokawa historical society. She graciously shared with me much about the town’s history along with giving me great dining and tourist recommendations for the surrounding areas. The center also features local artisan wares and I was happy to pick up a jar of delicious caramel apple butter from Island’s End Farm and a lovely bar of soap from Elochoman Valley Soapworks. Check out the center’s upcoming Deck the Hall Christmas and Holiday Open House for even more local goodies. (Nov 29 – Dec 15, check website for hours)
Yum!!
Make sure you climb to the top of the schoolhouse!
Inside the former school
This soap smells sooooo good!
The lovely gift shop area
The Riverlife Interpretive Center – Formerly the Central School
‘Lots to learn about upstairs!
And fire in the skyyyyy!
For Ryan and Beth
Boats of the Columbia River and Skamokawa area
After learning about the area at the interpretive center, do a little exploring on your own and imagine what life on the river might’ve been like all those years ago. A few places to help you with your Skamokawa adventuring:
Situated on an inlet of the Columbia River, the Skamokawa Resort features lodging, conference facilities, a dock, wonderful water views and a nice little general store. It is now on my bucket list to return to the area for a few days of kayaking and general relaxation. I’m sure a few hours sitting in the gazebo and taking in the view will also be a part of my plan…
A little greenery adds color to the docks
Just give me a book and a long afternoon… And some wine…
Even the birds love a good gazebo!
Resort life on the river
Serene afternoon at the Skamokawa Resort
Lovely clapboard lodging on the river
Stock up on supplies at the General Store
Just up the road from the Skamokawa Resort, The Duck Inn offers classic pub and diner specialties with great views of the Columbia River.
Part of my bucket list planning will most certainly involve Columbia River Kayaking. Featuring instruction and guide services in the area, they’ve been outfitting adventures since 2003. I’m very much looking forward to gliding through the waters of the Columbia as they head out to sea…
Just a peaceful day on the slough
A pretty sweet back yard!
Boat from house to resort!
Yep, I could do the river life…
For amazing views of the river with awesome sandy beaches and wildlife, head to Vista Park, just past the center of Skamokawa. They have great camping spots and also feature yurts and tepee rentals! In June, take advantage of the gusty river winds and check out the Skamokawa Kite Festival. (June 28-29)
Just a little further west on SR-4, stop by the Skamokawa Farmstead Creamery to enjoy a bit of delicious goat cheese and visit with the resident goats.
Vista Park has it all!
Clouds and sand… Nice.
What a view! Some might even call it a vista…
Who says the Columbia doesn’t have sandy beaches??
Sometimes a cloudy day is a beautiful thing.
A tepee on the beach!
Continuing west on SR-4, keep an eye out for the Loop Road turn-off to the Grays River Covered Bridge. Located in the beautiful Grays River area, the iconic bridge is the last covered bridge in service in Washington State. Built in 1905 and on theNational Register of Historic Places, the bridge is a picturesque tribute to days gone by. The surrounding Ahlberg Park and farmlands are stunning and the feeling of peace in the area is transcendent. For a gorgeous look at the countryside, cross back over the bridge and take the Loop Road side route out of the area. (It connects back to SR-4 a little further west) Once back on SR-4 stop in at Duffy’s Irish Pub for a tasty, traditional pub-style meal and a pint. You can’t miss its quirky, entirely unique exterior!
Spooky and charming at the same time!
I actually had to back out as someone was already coming in the opposite direction!
And extra shelter assist from the giant trees!
More giant trees in Ahlberg Park. Stop to take a rest and admire the scene.
Waiting for the horseman…
Don’t miss stopping at Duffy’s!
Nearing the border of Wahkiakum and Pacific Counties as well as the bridge from Washington to Oregon, I wanted to stop at a few more Lewis and Clark checkpoints before my Wahkiakum County adventure came to an end. I’d always been curious about Pillar Rock in the Altoona area, so when I saw the turn-off signs in the Rosburg area, off I went! (Pro tip: If you happen to be hungry, the Rosburg Store at the turn-off for Altoona-Pillar Rock Road offers very tasty burgers, sandwiches, pizza and soup – along with all the standard convenience store fare.)
The Altoona-Pillar Rock Road is a beautiful drive, but very winding; especially once it begins to hug the shores of the river. It’s all worth it, however. To say the views of the Columbia were stunning would be an understatement and each time I stopped to admire the view, it was hard to get back in the car.
Along the way, I stopped to investigate the Lewis and Clark road markers and learned the area was an important part of the final days of their journey. It was only a few miles up the river where on November 7th, 1805 they first spotted the Pacific Ocean and William Clark famously recorded in his journal, “Ocian in view! O! The Joy!” (His spelling, not mine) It would require several more days of stormy weather and setbacks around the nearby Dismal Nitch area, but two weeks later, the Lewis and Clark expedition miraculously and finally reached the glorious Pacific Ocean. The anticipated Northwest Passage was not to be found, but the eventual expansion of the US was due largely to all that Lewis and Clark discovered in its pursuit.
An amazing view of the Columbia River from Altoona-Pillar Rock Road
Looking out towards one of the last camp areas of the Lewis and Clark Expedition
Envision Lewis and Clark sailing right through this area…
If you’d like to further take in the scene of the final days of Lewis and Clark’s trek to the ocean, there are various bed and breakfasts to be found in and around the Altoona area. (Check out VRBO or Airbnb for options) There is also the charming Rose Creek Retreat which features private campsites along the Columbia, surrounded by beautiful gardens and native plants. (April to December – No RVs or large campers)
Note: The Altoona-Pillar Rock Road culminates in a dead end on private property. The owner of the property and his dog are very nice, but I’m fairly certain they appreciate their privacy and would prefer to keep said property private. I’d recommend turning around before the road ends.
Beautiful homes along Altoona-Pillar Rock Road
Lewis and Clark traveled right through this area.
I don’t believe I spotted the actual Pillar Rock during my explorations, but I did take in some pretty amazing views. As it was a clear day, I could also see the spectacular Astoria-Megler Bridge off in the distance, heralding views of the joyous Pacific Ocean just beyond. Had I more time during my adventure, I would have taken the bridge over to nearby Astoria, Oregon; gateway to the amazing Oregon Coast as well as setting for the classic Spielberg film, Goonies. Check out the Oregon Film Museum in Astoria for more info about Goonies and other films made in the area. (And remember: Goonies never say die!)
I never did find Pillar Rock, but this is another of the cool basalt pillars in the area
Looking out towards the Astoria Bridge and the Pacific Ocean
Goonies never say die!! (Picked up on my Kittitas County adventure)
Wrapping up my time in Wahkiakum County brought me to a place which spoke deeply to my own history and roots. Even though many of the Finnish immigrants of the late 1800s settled in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan and surrounding areas (my grandmother’s family included), a large group of immigrants found their way to Washington State’s Wahkiakum and Pacific Counties. One such community is Deep River, located just near the border of Wahkiakum and Pacific Counties.
They were drawn to the area for its rich salmon fishing and timber industries, both of which were mainstays in their native Finland. (I knew there was a reason I love salmon so much – it’s in my DNA. Science!) The Finnish immigrants thrived in the area and felt a kinship with the wilds of the Northwest and its familiar bounty. While the area’s salmon and logging industries have greatly declined over the years, many families of these immigrants still call the Deep River area home. The Deep River Pioneer Lutheran Church, on the National Register of Historic Places, was completed by Finnish immigrants in 1902 and is open during the bi-annual Finnish American Folk Festival, held in the neighboring Finnish community of Naselle. (July 24-26, 2020)
Come and celebrate Finland!
The salmon industry was key to the Wahkiakum economy. (Display found in the Riverlife Interpretive Center, Skamokawa)
On my way out of Wahkiakum County, I was tinkering with my road trip playlist when I came across a new album by Deep River resident, Krist Novoselic. Living on a farm in the area seems to have really inspired his art as Butterfly Launches from Spar Pole is a unique and interesting homage to the area’s flora and fauna. (And a definite departure from his Nirvana days) After having spent only a short time in the area, it’s easy to see how such a peaceful and historically rich setting can inspire such tribute.
Native Americans, explorers, farmers, fishermen, Finns and famous Grunge artists have all called the Wahkiakum area home over the years and it is certain to attract many more adventurous souls in years to come. I know I’m happy to have spent only a day exploring its treasures – and I intend to spend many more in the future. It may indeed be one of the smallest counties in the state, but it is filled with adventure and ever so big in heart.
Until next time, eat the state!!
Cheers!
Come visit the beautiful backroads of Wahkiakum County! (Taken on Loop Road near the Grays River Covered Bridge)
Welcome to Canada, our lovely neighbor to the north. Sweeping mountain ranges, rugged coastlines, raw wilderness and a lot of snow make Canada a veritable wonderland of adventure. Living in Washington, I feel incredibly lucky to be just a quick drive away from the border and have taken advantage of this convenience many times over the years. One of North America’s premier cosmopolitan cities, Vancouver B.C. is but a *two-hour drive from Seattle and one of the most amazing places to ski in the world, Whistler-Blackcomb, is a couple of hours beyond Vancouver. (*Depending on border waits) As neighbors, we have so much in common and so many similarities to keep us close. However, whenever I cross the border and the traffic signs suddenly go metric – or I pull into the gas station and the prices are by liter (or litre, in Canada) – I feel as if I’ve been magically transported to the other side of the world.
Canada is a powerhouse all on its own – and a sprawling one, at that. It is the second largest country in the world by total area (land and water) and the fourth largest country in the world by land alone. I will never forget the first time I drove past Vancouver B.C. towards Whistler. Well-accustomed to the lofty mountain ranges and open spaces of Washington, I was still not prepared for the epic majesty of the Coast Mountains and the spectacular Sea-to-Sky Highway (BC Highway 99) which guides you closely along Pacific Ocean inlets and into the vast wilds of the Canadian wilderness. I was simply put, slack-jawed and amazed. The first time I saw the monolithic face of The Stawamus Chief (second-largest granite monolith in the world) or the soaring panorama of endless peaks from atop Blackcomb are visions which shall live forever glorious in my mind’s eye.
Endless mountain peaks as seen from the top of Blackcomb, above Whistler Village
For this particular Canadian adventure, we kept it closer to the shoreline and fairly close to home. My Scotophile friends, Kristen, Tori and I were in need of whisky, bagpipes and kilts – and maybe a bit of haggis and the tossing of heavy objects. In short, we wanted to find a good Highland games event to attend. There are several great Highland games during the summer in Washington State, but given Canada’s close ties to England, Ireland and Scotland, there are many to be found in Canada as well. Since Victoria, B.C. is just a quick ferry ride away and they’ve been hosting a Highland games for the past 156 years, we figured it would be a great spot to fulfill all of our Scottish dreams. (And my pal Kristen and I are still financially recovering from our recent adventures to the actual Highlands of Scotland)
Combine the welcoming, good nature of Canada with the beautiful wilds of the Pacific Northwest and the pomp and grandeur of Britain and you come close to concocting the unique setting that is Victoria, B.C. Situated on the southern tip of Vancouver Island and named for Queen Victoria, Victoria is not only an amazing place to visit, it is also the capital of the province of British Columbia. Many important goings-on take place in this quaint city along with the regular flow of tourism.
The stately front of the British Columbia Parliament Building in downtown Victoria B.C.
Head to the Waterfront in downtown Seattle and sail to Victoria via the passenger-only Victoria Clipper. The journey is a little under three hours and it’s likely you’ll see marine life along the way. They also offer a bevy of hotel, car and sightseeing package deals which are very worth checking out. On a recent trip, just as we were getting close to the Victoria harbor, a pod of orcas was swimming not too far off the port side. To add to the majesty, there was a rainbow perfectly situated over the harbor as we pulled into dock. WOW!
If you’re up for a gorgeous bird’s-eye view of the Puget Sound, hop aboard a seaplane flight with Kenmore Air. Many friends have made the journey, but it is still on my travel bucket-list. SOON!
If you’re coming from mainland B.C., head through Vancouver and cross to Victoria on the Tsawwassen – Swartz Bay (The ferry accommodates both foot passengers and vehicles) The crossing time to Swartz Bay is 1 hour and 35 minutes.
You can also utilize the Washington State Ferry out of Anacortes in Skagit County. (The ferry accommodates both foot passengers and vehicles) They offer a 3-hour cruise to Sidney B.C. which is a 20-minute drive outside of Victoria. (Pro Tip: If you are driving, reservations are strongly recommended.)
View of the Port Townsend Dock from aboard the MV Coho
looking out from Port Townsend on the MV Coho
Checking out the MV Coho display inside the ferry terminal
Cool exhibits to be found inside the ferry terminal
The MV Coho can move the big rigs!
Looking back towards the US as we sailed on to Canada
In order to make the most of our few days in Victoria, we had made reservations for the first sailing out of Port Angeles. The morning was crisp and the water smooth; the makings of a beautiful journey! Once aboard, we got the lay of the vintage ship and staked out a few seats with a view out over the bow. (The MV Coho has been in operation since 1959 and they’ve largely kept the vintage décor.) Since it was early and I’d only gotten a few hours of sleep, caffeine was high on the list of things to do. We found our way to the cafeteria, which is adjacent to the tiny, but well-stocked gift shop, and loaded up on breakfast goodies and strong coffee. There’s something great to be said about warming your hands with a steaming cup of coffee while looking out over the bow of a ship. Ahhhh….
I loved all of the vintage signage aboard the ship
I felt like I was stepping back in time aboard the MV Coho
More great vintage signage
Not much has changed in the past 50 years
Time to go drink some coffee on the deck…
A lovely scene out on the deck…
Tiny, but packed with cool gifts!
You can bring your bike!
Looking out over the bow of the ship, towards Victoria
After fully perusing the ship and refueling with caffeine, we hit up the on-board Tour Desk to find out about special deals for various tours in the Victoria area. It’s definitely worth checking out and not only will you save a few dollars, but you’ll be able to skip the sometimes long ticket lines at the given attraction. We opted for tickets to Butchart Gardens, the Butterfly Gardens and the Royal B.C. Museum. We were all set for our first two days of touring and we hadn’t even docked yet!
The Pursers Office, just across from the Tour Desk
That’s some expertly coiled rope, to be sure…
What a beautiful morning!
As we sailed into Victoria’s Inner Harbour, we were met with the beautiful skyline of downtown Victoria. The vibrant Causeway Marina, the glorious Parliament Building and the stunning Empress Hotel were all there to greet us. The scene was bustling with boats coming and going, tourists renting scooters and tour buses shuttling visitors off to neighboring attractions. (There are many bus tours available through the MV Coho and Victoria Clipper tour desks) The area near the stately Steamship Grill & Bar (the old Heritage Steamship Terminal building, c. 1924) is a great pick-up/drop-off point with many excursions taking off from the general vicinity. Not too far from the Inner Harbour, especially if you happen to be entering the area via cruise ship, is Fisherman’s Wharf. Colorful float homes, restaurants, shops, live music and more make this another great waterfront area to explore.
The MV Coho in the Inner Harbour
Sailing into the Inner Harbour – along with a sea plane!
Turning the corner into the Inner Harbour
As we’d arrived fairly early on a Thursday morning, we had time to fit in some of the more popular tourist destinations. Since we were only visiting for a few days and it was the very busy Victoria Day 3-day weekend, we wanted to get ahead of the crowds. (Victoria Day celebrates Queen Victoria’s birthday and is the unofficial start of summer in Canada. It falls on the last Monday in May, preceding the 25th.)
After switching my GPS over to accommodate the metric system and Canadian byways, we struck out towards the spectacular Butchart Gardens, located about 30 minutes outside of Victoria. It was a grey morning and threatening rain, but we maintained our hope for things to clear up. That said, we’re from the Pacific Northwest and are typically prepared for any type of weather. Most of the time…
Hello there, Butchart Gardens!
To say that the Butchart Gardens are a marvel in horticultural design would be an absurd understatement. They are an amazing display of design, cultivation, whimsy, passion and vision. Originally masterminded by Jennie Butchart beginning in the early 1900s, utilizing the old limestone quarry in her backyard, it has grown (literally) into an absolute national treasure. After being gifted The Gardens in 1939, Jennie’s grandson, Ian Ross has continued to enhance and expand the garden experience into what greets modern-day visitors.
Once we’d gotten past our initial ooo’s and ahhh’s, we formed a strategy to help us both enjoy and see all of the grounds during our brief stay. There is so much to take in and so many garden themes and landscapes to enjoy – we didn’t want to miss anything! As we wound around beautifully manicured trails and flower-filled alcoves, we popped out at the fantastical view overlooking the famous Sunken Gardens. Words can’t fully express the breathtakingly beautiful scene, so please enjoy some pictures!
Looking down into the famous Sunken Gardens
The artistry is mind-boggling!
Waterfalls, native plants and more grace the Sunken Gardens
A sneaky view of the Sunken Gardens from a little cabin above
The most lovely of picture frames…
To be honest, I would’ve probably been fine having only seen the Sunken Gardens. My mind was swimming in a glorious flower explosion and I couldn’t imagine anything could compare. However, since I knew, based on long-ago visits, the rest of the grounds absolutely could compare, off we went to the next amazing scene. (I do wish we could’ve been there on a summer Saturday night to see the excellent fireworks show from the Sunken Gardens, but that will have to wait for another visit.)
There are faeries in the fountain…
Fountain faeries!
A fountain faerie dance!
Over the course of the next couple of hours, we visited Italy, Japan, the Mediterranean and England, not to mention the beauty of the native Pacific Northwest landscape which brings it all together. It seemed around each corner was a new, mind-boggling panorama to leave us speechless. Again, since words fail me when attempting to fully describe the beauty, here are a few more pictures!
Bear topiaries!
Beautiful dragon fountain
Dragon in the Japanese Gardens
A hidden portal looking out to the water
The beautiful Japanese Gardens
The exotic hanging lamp tree
Manicured lawns and beautiful rose gardens
What a sight for a wedding!
Beautiful pagoda in the Japanese Gardens
Beautiful pond near the Mediterranean Gardens
Sea Serpent fountain
Total zen in the Japanese Gardens
After all of our gallivanting around the flowers, it’s fair to say we’d become a little peckish. Since there are several dining spots on the garden grounds, it wasn’t hard to find something to fulfill our needs. We’d considered afternoon tea at The Dining Room, but since it’s a more leisurely affair, we opted for a less formal and more expedited lunch at the Blue Poppy Restaurant. It was just what we needed and soon enough, we were back to exploring the grounds and finishing it off with a stop into their lovely gift shop. (Because of course we did! Several dainty tea cups were chanting my name and I’d be a monster to not heed their call…) There are also several quick snack spots dotted around grounds for on-the-go occasions. Coffee and ice cream accompaniments for your flower viewing pleasure!
A lovely lantern to light your way
One of the cafes on the garden grounds
Right out of a Monet!
I love pansies!
Follow the purple path!
We were there for tulip season
Gorgeous NW favorites!
So very lovely!
After getting our fill of flowers and teacups, we drove back up the road a few miles to get our fill of butterflies and wine. (As one does…) Since Kristen and Tori were more excited about the Butterfly Gardens and I was more excited about doing some wine tasting, we decided to divide and conquer. Conveniently, since the beautiful vineyards of Church & State Wines were basically next door to the Butterfly Gardens, it all worked out quite nicely. I hear-tell Kristen and Tori very much enjoyed communing with the butterflies. I, too, enjoyed my communing…
I’m not a fan of bananas, but apparently butterflies love them! (Photo credit: K. Spoor)
Beautiful butterfly action! (Photo credit: K. Spoor)
Flamingos and Koi fish at the Butterfly Gardens (Photo credit: K. Spoor)
Flamingos and butterflies living together in harmony (Photo credit: K. Spoor)
Butterflies AND parrots! (Photo credit: K. Spoor)
Church & State Wine sits overlooking their vineyard and rolling grounds. The main tasting room and restaurant is spacious and there is an outdoor, covered seating area with a great view of the vineyards. Since it was a Thursday afternoon, they weren’t super crowded and I easily found a seat at the tasting bar. Upon learning more about their wine from the well-informed Sommelier, I sampled a few and enjoyed a lovely locally-sourced cheese selection alongside. I very much enjoyed their Trebella and Viognier and opted to bring home a couple bottles of the Trebella. (One of which actually made it home – We enjoyed one that evening at our Airbnb) I guess I’ll have to return to pick up a few more bottles. Oh no!!
Located a few minutes away from Church and State Wines is De Vine Wines & Spirits. They’re not only a winery and vineyard, but also a distillery! I was hoping to visit on this trip, but the afternoon had gotten away from us and it was time to locate our Airbnb. No worries – I’ll be back soon!
Beautiful vineyards at Church & State
Sit out on the deck and enjoy a glass
Welcome to Church & State!
The tasting bar was alllllll mine!
Cool decor at Church & State
A lovely wine list for tasting!
What a fabulous afternoon respite…
I’ll them all!
After we pulled ourselves away from the butterflies and viognier (sounds like a Hallmark movie), we plotted our course to the Airbnb. It turned out to be the lower-half of a cute home in a Victoria suburb with a private entrance in the back. Sweet! The hosts were a very kind family who had just begun to open their home to Airbnb guests. If you have a car, staying at an Airbnb a little outside of town can save a good chunk of change. We were about 20-minutes away from downtown Victoria and the drive into town was main thoroughfare most of the way. Additionally, we were more centrally located for visiting the surrounding towns. Win-win!
Once we’d settled in at the Airbnb, we took a little bit of time to relax and recharge for a night on the town. (But not too late a night as I’d been up and driving since 4am. We were all a bit tired, suffice to say.) Since we were in town for the Highland games, we decided to look for something along the lines of Shepherd’s Pie and Guinness Stew for dinner… Yes, please! And if I could find a place with a good Scotch egg, all the better!
Enter Irish Times, a traditional Irish pub in the heart of downtown Victoria. Both Kristen and I had been there before and knew they could fulfill at least two of our culinary needs. But did they win the trifecta with an entry of the Scotch egg? Why, YES – yes, they did! If you’ve never had a Scotch egg and you happen to see it on a menu – order it! It’s a soft-boiled egg rolled in crumbled sausage, breaded and fried. How can you go wrong?? Ohhh, delicious Scotch egg, how I love thee so… The only thing I found vaguely off about our Irish Times experience was their inclusion of ice in the cider pints. Why?? I’ve seen it a couple of other times on past Victoria visits. I need to get to the bottom of these icy cider shenanigans…
The stately Irish Times pub in downtown Victoria
Outdoor seating at the Irish Times
Traditional pub decor at the Irish Times
What’s with the ice in the cider???
A room with a view at the Irish Times
Tasty burgers at the Irish Times
Delicious lobster bisque at the Irish Times
Tasty Guinness Stew!
SCOTCH EGG FOR THE WIN!!
After our delicious dinner, we were completely full and positively spent. We didn’t have much left to give, but we figured it best to at least walk off a few of the calories we’d just consumed. (Hello there, Scotch egg…) We hit up the fantastic Munro’s Books and found a few great books and generally wandered around the area for a little while. We didn’t have it in us to make it over to nearby Russell Books, but that’s also a great spot for the bookworm. Next time!
Inside the lovely Munro’s Books
A very important book I picked up at Munro’s (Seattle author!)
So many great titles to choose from!
If you’re like us and always on the hunt for good pub food and a well-pulled pint, Victoria has so much to offer. It’s like walking down a street in London or Edinburgh – great pubs everywhere! A few of the places we didn’t get to on this visit, but have enjoyed on past stays:
The Churchill, located in the downtown area, hosts a modern pub menu and a rather large taps list. Cozy, low-key atmosphere and ‘lots of good beer – Sounds good!
The Sticky Wicket is located in downtown and features a modern pub menu, a good drink selection, a games room and hotel lodging.
Garrick’s Head Pub has been serving hungry and thirsty Canadians since 1867. They serve classics like shepherd’s pie and bangers and mash, but they also feature a more modern side with nods to Pacific Northwest favorites and seafood. They also have a pretty impressive taps selection.
Whether it’s poutine, fish & chips or perhaps a duck burger, Swan’s Brewery & Pub has you covered. They also feature an onsite brewery, a liquor store and a hotel. All the things!
Spinnakers is Canada’s oldest craft brewpub and a great place to relax out of the downtown hub. They’re located across the Johnson Street Bridge, past Chinatown and also feature guest house lodging. And they have a tea-infused beer – so terribly British!
If you happen to be heading back from Butchart Gardens, Todd Creek Craft Cider is a lovely cidery located not too far off of Highway 17.
Should you want to venture further north on Vancouver Island, Merridale Cidery & Distillery is about a 45-minute drive out of town. Located in the tiny town of Cobble Hill, they feature cider, spirits and a restaurant and if you get too tired to drive back to Victoria, they have yurts! Keep an eye out for their new location coming to the Victoria Dockside area.
And for a few great festival and tour options to compliment your pub quests:
Great Canadian Beer Festival – Check out Canada’s oldest/longest running Brewfest! Happening every Labour Day (First Monday in September in Canada) 90+ craft breweries, cideries and food trucks. Yes, please!
West Coast Brewery Tours offers 3-hour tours of many of the local breweries. (Brewery tour lists often changes from day to day – collect them all!) They also offer tours of local distilleries, wineries cideries and food options. What a great way to spend the afternoon!
Canadian Craft Tours offer fabulous food, wine, beer, distillery tours and more! Operating out of both British Columbia and Alberta, they cover a lot of amazing territory and delicious treats.
The Churchill Pub – right next door to Murchie’s Tea!
Great pubs around every corner!
I’m fairly certain none of us had any issues with insomnia that night. After we made it back to the Airbnb, we all promptly retired to our rooms and if Kristen and Tori were anything like me, they were out within minutes of hitting the pillow. Even though we were on vacation, we’d planned a pretty packed itinerary and needed to get up early the next day to fit it all in. There are so many amazing things to see and do in Victoria! Dreams of morning coffee and afternoon tea filled my head as I drifted off to a well-earned sleep…
The next morning came much earlier than felt reasonable, but our itinerary was raring to go. We’d planned to get in some early morning hiking outside of town and what better way to fuel our morning adventure than with some Canadian morning fuel. Enter the Canadian breakfast of champions, Tim Hortons! (Dear Tim Hortons, Please open stores on the US west coast. Thank you! Your Pal, Dayna)
Donuts, great coffee, breakfast sandwiches, donuts, tea, pastries, donuts, donuts, DONUTS!! They’re now also serving delicious Cold Stone Creamery ice cream. You can’t go wrong at Tim Horton’s. I stop at the Squamish location on every Whistler trip and pretty much any other time I see one. That morning, we all enjoyed tasty breakfast sandwiches and I’m fairly certain a few donuts were also involved. Did I mention they have great donuts?
Dear Tim Hortons, I love you. Sincerely, Dayna.
With bellies full of coffee and donuts, we made our way north on Highway 17 towards Island View Beach Regional Park. Only 20 minutes out of town, it’s a great place to stroll along the beach and take in the views of Haro Strait, James Island and our own San Juan Island and Mt. Baker. It was a somewhat hazy morning, but things were starting to clear a little as we walked along the water and enjoyed the scene. The park also offers RV and tent camping should you want to get closer to nature and still be close to the city. It was a lovely way to work off a few of those donut calories…
I’d also hoped to visit Coles Bay Regional Park that morning as it’s only about a 20-minute drive from Island View Beach and affords a great view of the water on the Saanich Inlet side of the peninsula. As it’s also located on Inverness Road, I thought it seemed rather appropriate given the purpose of our Victoria visit! But alas, we realized we’d have to cut a few things off the itinerary in order to make it to the places for which we’d already purchased tickets. (The small drawback to purchasing in advance – you need to actually make it to the places to get your money’s worth. Heh.)
So much cool driftwood!
A lovely morning looking out towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca
A lovely beach stroll to get the day started
‘Lots of uses for driftwood along the beach
Beautiful beach-side finds…
Looking over to James Island
As Vancouver Island is a wonderland of outdoor opportunities, I still have many places on my bucket list left to visit. Here are but a few of the spots I’m hoping to soon check off my list:
The West Coast Trail is at the top of my ‘Canadian Hikes’ bucket list. It’s an epic 47-mile coastal trail used by the First Nations for hundreds of years before any explorers arrived. From their website: Hikers climb more than 100 ladders with a heavy pack, trudge through deep mud, wade through mountain-fed rivers in fast-flowing hip-deep waters, and push through whatever weather the wild West Coast delivers — often driving wind and rain. YES!! I’m IN!!! (Note: A reservation is needed to make this trek.)
Check out Jordan Falls Regional Park for beautiful trails through cedar-filled rainforest. The trails lead down to beaches along the Strait of Juan de Fuca with views of the Olympic Peninsula. Don’t miss the gorgeous Sandcut Beach Waterfalls which fall directly onto the pebbled beach. Camping available.
Goldstream Provincial Park is located close to Victoria, but offers all the deep-forest features. BIG trees, hiking trails, waterfalls and camping – All just a 30-minute drive from downtown!
The Coast Trail and Aylard Farm area offers both an epic weekend backpacking adventure along with accessible picnic areas for daytrip relaxing. Great views of the Strait of Juan de Fuca, including Coast Salish First Nation ancient Petroglyphsfound at Alldridge Point.
The Juan de Fuca Provincial Trail is yet another epic Vancouver Island trail. Roughly 27-miles along the west coast of the island, it provides great shoreline access and stunning views. China Beach and Mystic Beach are two of the areas I’m really looking forward to checking out.
One part of Vancouver Island I’m very excited to investigate is the Carmanah Walbran Provincial Park and Central Walbran Valley. Beautiful rainforest and some of the world’s largest spruce trees make it one of the more stunning spots on the island – and the grandest, old-growth rainforest in Canada. Also in the area is the Gonzales Hill Observatory at Walbran Park. A perfect spot to check out the night skies.
For beautiful rainforest trails close to town, head to Francis King Regional Park. The Centennial Trail basically circles around the park and hooks up with the High Ridge Trail. It begins at the Nature Centre, which is open on weekends until 4pm.
Beautiful shrubbery of Vancouver Island
Since we’d worked off a bit of our Tim Horton’s donut feast, it seemed reasonable to consider where we’d be eating lunch; Or at least some sort of tasty snack and maybe a pint of… Cider! Since I’d put nearby Sea Cider on my list of hopefuls for the trip, we struck out to see what kind of sustenance they could provide.
Open daily from 11am to 4pm, Sea Cider, located in the Saanichton community (situated on the Sannich Peninsula), is a quick 25-minute drive from downtown Victoria. The tasting room offers both indoor and outdoor deck seating and is a lovely place to spend a sunny afternoon. They offer tasty small plates as complement to their delicious ciders and I was particularly impressed with their Rum Runner cider. (Of which I’ve been hoarding at home. One of these days I’m going to give in… Or return for more!)
Welcome to lovely Sea Cider!
Lovely view from the deck seating
Tasty snacks at Sea Cider
Cider and snacks!
Sigh… A lovely place to enjoy the afternoon
Inside at Sea Cider
I’m still hoarding it!
Other spots in the Saanichton and North Saanich area for tasty food and beverage:
On the way to Sea Cider, Victoria Caledonian Distillery and Twa Dogs Brewery offers all the best in beer AND whisky! Run by native Scotsman, Graeme Macaloney, he brings a wee bit of the tasty Highlands to Victoria. Slàinte mhath! (Open daily. Check website for hours.)
Symphony Vineyard, located in the Saanichton area, features delicious wine in a beautiful setting. (Open Saturdays and Sundays from 11am – 5pm.)
Located in North Saanich on the Saanich Peninsula, about 16 miles north of Victoria, Muse Winery / Deep Cove Winery offers delicious boutique wines in a beautiful setting. (Open Friday thru Sunday, 12-5pm)
Also located in North Saanich, the Roost Bistro & Farm Bakery has a bit of all things good. Great wine, a tasty bistro menu, a farm-style bakery and beautiful grounds. Additionally, they offer several cool tours around the grounds. (Open daily. Check out the website for hours.)
After enjoying our reasonable fill of delicious cider, we were ready to take on some hard-core, downtown Victoria sightseeing. As we’d already purchased tickets for the Royal B.C. Museum, it was first on our list. Along with their stellar, permanent collections, the museum was featuring an exhibit of ancient Mayan artifacts and we were excited to check it out.
Welcome to the Royal BC Museum!
Maya: The Great Jaguar Rises
Artifacts from the Maya exhibit
This guy’s just kickin’ back…
Artifacts from the Maya exhibit
Amazing detail from the Maya exhibit
Very unique displays at the Maya exhibit
This guy looks like he’s seen better days
Who knew Nicolas Cage was around in Mayan times??
I’ve been to the Royal B.C. in the past and I’ve always been impressed with their exhibits. This visit was no exception and the range of the Mayan exhibit was well-curated and fascinating. I particularly love their permanent Indigenous Peoples and Modern History exhibits. They feature full-scale exhibit areas where one is free to walk amongst the artifacts and displays. It’s very easy to get lost in the feeling of the era when visiting the museum and I highly recommend it to anyone visiting the area.
Real? Or museum exhibit? Hmmm…
SO realistic!
Beautiful First Nations exhibits
Permanent First Nations exhibit at the Royal BC Museum
These guys are big!
Great exhibits demonstrating the lives of indigenous peoples
Step back in time!
Well-done, full-scale exhibits take you back to early Victoria
Let’s get cookin’!
Looking down onto old Victoria’s streets
I’d sure love to take a drive in this one!
Part of the WWII display…
Located just across the street from the museum is the majestic Parliament Building. (c. 1897) It’s impossible to miss and it regally dominates that end of downtown and the Inner Harbour. It’s regularly in use during the week for official goings-on of the British Columbia parliament, but is also open for public tours. Additionally, they offer breakfast and lunch in the Parliamentary Dining Room. (Open Monday thru Friday, 11am – 1pm – when Legislature is not in session.) If you happen to be in the area at dusk, it is quite a sight to see the outlining lights of the Parliament building turn on. It’s a beautiful scene and not to be missed. (Note: As it is a government building, official ID such as passports are required for security checks upon entrance.)
View of Parliament from the Royal BC Museum
Taking a break on the steps of the Parliament Building
War monument in front of Parliament Building
Dusk at the Parliament Building
Just kitty-corner to the Parliament Building sits another icon of the downtown Victoria skyline, the ever-grand, Empress Hotel. (c. 1908) It is truly one of my favorite spots in Victoria and while on the more expensive side, well worth visiting for at least one of your Victoria stays. If anything, book a spot for one of famous, daily high-tea services. Befitting the opulence and grandeur of The Empress, the high tea is an extravagant affair to make Queen Victoria proud. Another alternative to actually staying at The Empress is to visit one of their dining rooms. On one of my last visits, I enjoyed an excellent dinner in the Q at The Empress dining room. (Pro tip: It’s possible to get some fairly decent lodging/travel packages for The Empress via the Victoria Clipper.)
The grand lady herself, The Empress Hotel
A great lounge area inside the Empress
Dine at Q at the Empress – Delicious!
Peaking in on high tea at the Empress
A fabulous wine selection!
Beautiful art installations in the lobby of the Empress
Beautiful grounds of the Empress
Since we’d done a fair share of walking and perusing, our Sea Cider affair was close to wearing off. One of the areas we really wanted to visit was the famous Fan Tan Alley, located in Chinatown. As the shops in Fan Tan Alley close between 5pm and 6pm, we needed to get moving. There are also several great restaurants in the area, so it just seemed to make sense to head in that direction.
Fan Tan Alley, the narrowest commercial street in North America, is a quirky and mysterious marvel. Once home to gambling parlors and opium dens in the late 1800s, it has gone through several stages of growth and decline over the years. It is now restored, minus the gambling and opium, and is on Canada’s National Historic Register. It hosts an eclectic collection of shops and services and is well worth a visit. It truly did remind me of exploring the winding alleyways and hidden nooks and crannies of Beijing and Shanghai. On your next Victoria visit, be sure to check out Kid Sister Ice Cream for delicious treats and Saltspring Soapworks for some very luxurious soaps and bath products. (I love their Rosemary Mint shampoo!)
Step on into Fan Tan Alley!
Ooooo – mysterious!
‘Lots of great nooks and crannies to explore in Fan Tan Alley
So cool!
Many shops are tucked into this tiny alley
I wonder where it leads…
Saltspring Soapworks
Where does it lead??
On the other side of Fan Tan Alley
Exiting out of the alley onto Fisgard Street brings you into the heart of Victoria’s historic Chinatown district. The oldest of its kind in Canada, there are a lot of stories packed into its establishments. Restaurants, shops, grocers, galleries and even a Buddhist Temple are just a few of the places you’ll find tucked into this small, but vibrant part of town.
Great scenes around Chinatown
So much to see and do in Chinatown
I love this sign!
Welcome to Chinatown!
A very cool dragon near the entrance to Chinatown on Fisgard Street
There were a few restaurants that caught our eye, but we opted to grab dinner at the aptly-named, Fan Tan Café. (Closed Wednesdays) Classic Chinese-Canadian favorites in a cozy, late-night friendly café and bar. We were all very happy with our orders and leisurely washed everything down with well-steeped pots of tea and quirky drinks featuring grenadine. While we were there during the respectable, early-dinner hours, I could easily imagine enjoying some late-night Beef Chow Funn and a grenadine-laced Tequila Sunrise…
I love the classic neon!
This combination plate with wonton soup was very tasty!
Tasty pan-fried pot stickers!
Looking out onto Fisgard Street
Since we’d gotten up fairly early and had packed in quite a bit of action into our day, we were ready to head back towards the Airbnb. Along the way to the car, we enjoyed the bustling Friday night scene and wandered into a few shops. We contemplated buying lovely sweaters at Out of Ireland, stopped in at Rogers’ Chocolates and grabbed some of their famous candies and I stocked up on my favorites at the local Lushshop. (I’m a longtime addict of their Rockstar soap and I Love Juicy shampoo.) We also thought it prudent to stop at a local grocery store on the way back to stock up on Canadian treats such as Lays Ketchup Potato Chips, dreamy Mackintosh Toffee and Ruby Kit-Kat bars. (It’s possible to get these treats online, but they’re definitely pricier when ordering from within the US.)
Tasty treats from Canada and beyond!
Since there are only so many hours in the day and we had definitely overloaded our itinerary, a few amazing spots will have to be saved for our next visit. If you make it there before us, here are a few very cool options to consider:
I have visited Craigdarroch Castle on past trips, but never get tired of taking in its majestic and storied scenery. Built by local coal baron, Robert Dunsmuir during the late 1800s, it’s now on the Canadian National Register of Historic Places and is quite a look into the luxurious life of the Victorian-era, Victoria elite.
In keeping with the castle theme, Hatley Castle is high on my list for the next visit. Built in 1908 and now a part of the Royal Roads University grounds, it is a beautiful turn-of-last-century example of design and opulence. Additionally, it has been the setting for many movies and television shows such as Deadpool, Arrow, X-Men: The Last Stand, X-Men 2, Smallville, Masterminds (Patrick Stewart) and MACGYVER. (Nerd Alert: These are all some of my favorites! I can’t believe I haven’t visited yet…)
Learn about the secrets and shady past of Victoria’s bygone days with the Discover the Past Ghostly Walks I love these type of tours and Victoria definitely has some good tales to tell. The tour starts at 9:30pm from in front of the Empress.
Another walking tour outfit, Off the Eaten Track, offers culinary tours featuring adventures such as Gourmet Victoria Dinner & Drinks and Eat Like a Canadian. Sounds good, eh?
Located in the downtown area, Axe and Grind features…AXE THROWING! They even have a league. It’s $21.23 CAD for 1 hour session and sounds AWESOME. What could possibly go wrong?? I have to admit to being pretty bummed we didn’t get to check this out. NEXT TIME.
If throwing axes isn’t your thing, how about flying through the air on a zipline? Or mastering an aerial obstacle course? Wildplay Element Park is located outside of Victoria and is about a 30-minute drive from downtown.
I’ve visited the Art Gallery of Greater Victoria on past trips and have always enjoyed their featured exhibits as well as their permanent collections. With so much beautiful artwork in a beautiful gallery space, it’s definitely worth a visit.
Victoria is all about the Arts – and The Force!
After another well-earned sleep, we were up early to take in the highlight of our trip, the 156th annual Victoria Highland Games & Celtic Festival at Topaz Park. As one of longest running Highland games in Canada, it is quite an affair and we were very excited to enjoy it – Haggis and all! We’d initially thought of stopping in at the Moss Street Farmer’s Market or the Victoria Public Market at the Hudson on our way to the games, but decided to make a beeline for the bagpipes. I love a good farmers market, but I’ll have to save it for next visit.
With events occurring for a week prior to the actual games, you can enjoy several days of Scottish and Celtic celebration. Kicking off with the Tartan Parade through downtown Victoria on the Saturday prior and including the Tilted Kilt Pubcrawl, there are many ways to get excited for the weekend festivities.
As we’d gotten an early start, we were among the first to head through the gates. (Which also allowed for some great parking!) Things were just getting started and as we entered the grounds and we were greeted with a morning fanfare of traditional bagpipe melodies. Everywhere we looked, people were dressed in full kilt regalia, period costume and all things plaid. The morning was brilliantly sunny and it had the makings of a glorious, Scots-filled day. Now to find some tasty Scottish treats!
Words of wisdom from Master Yoda (A festival jewelry vendor kindly gave me this from her display!)
Darth MacVader?
Treats!!
ALL of these treats were soooo delicious. Och aye!
Pick out your own!
Plaid and kilts!
Walking around the grounds, it was no trouble finding an abundance of Scottish goodies; Not to mention kilts, Scottish clan information, accessories and more. However, since we wanted to catch the opening of the ceremony and the massing of the bands, we temporarily curbed our shopping and found a good viewing spot on the main parade grounds.
You either love bagpipes – or you hate ‘em. I absolutely love them and they never fail to inspire me. Seeing and hearing hundreds of pipers and drummers massing together and marching in time is truly a glorious thing. (Again, I love the bagpipes. I can see how this might not appeal to someone who doesn’t…) The musicians did not disappoint and it was a great start to a sunny, Victoria morning. And even though it was spring in the Pacific Northwest, I was wishing I’d applied more sunscreen…
The massing of the bands kicking off the day
They made quite a majestic sound!
After enjoying the bands, we did a bit of shopping and browsing. We all found things we couldn’t live without and stocked up on various Scottish treats. While shortbread and toffee can certainly be enjoyed as a meal, it seemed like a good time to check out the more hearty offerings of the food vendors. (And the beer tent!) Kristen and Tori opted for traditional fish & chips, but since there was an actual haggisstand, that’s where I lined up. I know it doesn’t sound immediately appealing and I was skeptical the first time I tried it, but I’ve grown to love haggis; especially when served with whisky gravy, tatties and neeps. (Mashed potatoes and mashed turnips/rutabagas) I’d liken haggis to a cross between sausage and corned beef hash.
The Company Lager was great!
Haggis and tatties with whisky gravy!
They made a pretty tasty haggis!
Some Scottish step dancers performing while we enjoyed lunch
In addition to our tasty lunches, we enjoyed a beer along with a demonstration of Scottish dancing on the nearby stage. It’s similar to Irish step dancing and always seems very merry. It was a great accompaniment to our meal and provided a great excuse to sit down and rest for a spell. After we got our fill of the dance, we grabbed another beer and went off to locate what would be a very cool falconry demonstration and then onto the tossing of heavy objects! (And more beer!)
Taking a rest from his falconry duties
A beautiful falcon close up!
The actual ‘games’ of the Scottish games celebrations involve the tossing of items such as enormous wooden poles called ‘cabers’ and ridiculously heavy weights, shot-puts and hammers. The items are tossed for height or distance and typically involve a lot of grunting and are referred to as the ‘heavy events.’ Both men and women compete and it’s never a dull display. There is also an epic tug-of-war event that blows away any schoolyard completion I could ever recall from grade school. The athletes that participate in these events are incredibly strong and incredibly fun to watch. We were absolutely entertained and it was a great way to wrap up the afternoon.
Getting ready to toss the caber
Caber tossing underway!
The Weight for Height competition – Women’s division
The Weight for Height competition – Men’s division
After all of that traditional Scottish pageantry, we were ready for a traditional dinner at one of Victoria’s coolest pubs, Bard & Banker Public House in the heart of downtown Victoria. I’ve visited on several occasions and I’m never disappointed. This time was no exception and everything we ordered was quite tasty. It’s an expansive pub full of traditional decor and can get quite boisterous on a weekend night – perfect for celebrating after the Highland games! I always try to make it in for at least a pint on any visit. They also have a great whisky, beer and wine list.
A great idea anytime!
Outdoor seating at The Bard & Banker
A great local BC brewery!
The water of life…
Delicious seafood chowder and grilled cheese
Classic pub vibe at The Bard & Banker
Tasty burgers at The Bard & Banker
Classic roast chicken and potatoes
It’s the cupboard under the stairs of wine!
Even though we were pretty full after dinner, we were on vacation and decided we needed dessert. Not too far from the Bard & Banker, we ran across one of the most glorious purveyors of dessert glory to be found, Chocolats Flavoris. Bottom line, they serve CHOCOLATE POUTINE. Good lord. Chocolate poutine, I say!
Poutine, a traditional Canadian dish featuring French fries, cheese curds and gravy, is a heart-stopping mound of deliciousness. Their version of poutine, featuring French fry sized pastries, ice cream, marshmallows (for the cheese curds) and chocolate sauce can officially stop my heart anytime! They also serve amazing fondue, chocolate bars, customizable sundaes with one-of-a-kind sauces and more. WOW! I’d be in SO much trouble if there were one of these close to home…
Kooky up your cone or your POUTINE!
OMG – Soooooooo delicious!!! Chocolate poutine!
Their lava cake was pretty delicious, too!
If you’re not in the mood for traditional pub food, there are many options in the downtown area to suit any tastes. A few places to consider:
The 10 Acres Bistro and Kitchen are two, separate spots, directly next to each other. Featuring farm-to-table fare made with goods grown on their own farm, they’re a great place to enjoy the fresh flavors of Vancouver Island. Located in downtown Victoria, near the Inner Harbour.
Bin 4 Burger Lounge features delicious gourmet burgers and more, made with local ingredients. There are a few locations on Vancouver Island with two being in downtown Victoria and the Westwood areas.
For classic Pacific Northwest fare and classic Jazz, check out Herman’s Jazz Club in the downtown area for a great night out. (Note: Reservations for dinner and shows are recommended.)
Hoping to catch the lights turning on…
There they go!
On the way back to the car, we timed it perfectly and were able to catch the Clan torchlight parade in front of the Parliament building. The lights popped on and the bagpipes began to play. It truly was a lovely way to end the day. The weather was sublime and the sunset over the Inner Harbour in addition to the music was absolutely enchanting. We all agreed it was a pretty fitting end to our first visit to the Victoria Highland Games and definitely plan on returning for future games.
Beautiful sunset at the Inner Harbour
All the lights are turning on near the Inner Harbour
Dusk at the Inner Harbour
As we’d gotten back to the Airbnb at a fairly reasonable hour the night before, we were feeling relatively refreshed the next morning. We packed up all our things at the Airbnb and resigned ourselves to enjoy one last morning in Victoria. The weather was great and the skies clear; it was going to be a beautiful trip home on the ferry.
But first, we wanted to get in one last jaunt around downtown Victoria. I’d been wanting to locate Mile 0, the genesis of the iconic, near 5000-mile Trans-Canada Highway, so off we went in search of it. (It spans the entire length of Canada!) Located on the hills just past downtown and the Inner Harbour, it’s well worth a visit and the views looking out over the water are beautiful. There are also great trails leading down to the shore and a nice park where you can pull up some grass and enjoy a picnic. (But maybe don’t actually pull up any grass…)
The beginning of the epic Trans-Canada Highway
Plaque commemorating the area from 1958
Plaque celebrating Stephen Fonyo, who ran the entire Trans-Canada Highway for the Canadian Cancer Society
Beautiful views of the beach from Mile 0
Watching the Victoria Clipper sail towards the Inner Harbour
After checking out the highway majesty of Mile-0, we hit up the funky and very delicious, Frankie’s Modern Diner near the Inner Harbour for breakfast. While enjoying our meals, we contemplated what we could possibly fit into the few hours we had left. Since we’d missed seeing the Saturday farmers market, we all agreed the Bastion Square Sunday Market sounded like a great idea.
I don’t know how I feel about a breakfast cheesecake pizza, but I might give it a whirl…
Hanging out at Frankie’s
Delicious breakfast at Frankie’s
Chicken and waffles!
Kristen got her egg white omelette
Turns out it was indeed a good idea and we much enjoyed the artisan scene of the market. Set along the walkways of Bastion Square in downtown Victoria, the market features all sorts of wonderful local arts and crafts. Each of us found several great items and chatted with a few of the artists. It was a great way to bid adieu to the city and all of its artful charms.
A great morning at Bastion Square Sunday Market
Vendors lining the walkways of Bastion Square
So many great artists to check out!
Right across from Irish Times!
I picked up this beautiful piece by local artist, Big Bear and the Wolf
Since we needed to get in line for the ferry at 1pm, it was time to head back towards the car. Along the way, however, we made a stop at one of Victoria’s most famous shops, Murchie’s Tea. (Murchie’s founder and Scotsman, John Murchie, learned his trade by delivering tea to Queen Victoria while she was in residence at Balmoral Castle and learned to blend the teas she enjoyed.) Since Victoria is known as the “tea capital of Canada”, it goes without saying this shop helped cultivate that title. (It’s been around since 1894) I go there every time I’m in town and always stock up on their delicious tea blends, my favorites being their Black Currant and Scottish Breakfast teas. (Okay, maybe I often pick up a tea cup or two. This trip was no exception.) They also serve a lovely afternoon tea and feature a deli and sandwich counter I’d compare to my beloved Fortnum & Mason in London. (Same goes for their large tea selection!)
Delicious teas!!
Just a small section of Murchie’s tea service offerings
So much to check out!
In addition to the excellent scene at Murchie’s, there are many other spots to enjoy tea in the area. A few more places to celebrate with your “pinkies out”:
If you’re looking for a lovely guest house and delicious high tea, Pendray Inn & Tea House has you covered. Located just up from the Inner Harbour, they are a beautiful place to rest your head and sip your tea.
The Abkhazi Garden &Teahouse serve high tea and light lunch items surrounded by an absolutely beautiful garden setting. Cultivated by the Prince and Princess Abkhazi over the course of 40 years, the house and gardens are a lovely tribute to their story.
Located just outside the downtown area, White Heather Tea Room serves traditional high teas as well as light lunch fare. They get great reviews and are high on my list for future visits.
Located in Chinatown, La Roux Patisserie is also high on my list for my next visit. Serving French pastries, cakes, coffee and tea, they are well known for their delicious treats.
Also in Chinatown, Silk Road Tea features not only delicious teas, but also a skincare line and a day-spa. I am completely on board with spending the afternoon sipping tea and enjoying spa services. Completely.
Serving delicious breakfast, lunch and high tea since 1956, Dutch Bakery does not disappoint. They also offer wonderful looking wedding cakes and delicious pastries.
Venus Sophia Tea Room & Vegetarian Eatery bill themselves as a ‘modern tearoom’ and feature traditional high tea fare with a twist. Located in downtown Victoria, they are nice respite from the hubbub of the city. Reservations are recommended.
Located outside of Victoria, Westholme Tea Company and farm hosts a tea shop, gallery, tours and tearoom. I haven’t visited yet, but it looks like a lovely spot to spend a few peaceful hours. It’s high on my list for my next visit.
Okay. Maybe I picked up a few mugs…
And with that, it was time to board the ferry and return to Washington State. A couple of hours back on the MV Coho and we arrived safely on the shores of home. I love Victoria – and I love Canada. To know I can get a shot of Canadian goodness along with a proper spot of tea just a couple of hours from my home is a wonderful thing, indeed. We do have so much in common with our Canadian neighbors, but it is also nice to celebrate what makes us both unique. I think we have a pretty cool partnership. Until next time, Victoria. Take good care, eh?
I infinitely love you, Victoria! (from the Sunken Garden at Butchart Gardens)
I Ate the State – Special Edition: Victoria B.C. – Click HERE to check out my custom Spotify playlist
~A celebration of Canadian Musicians and Song~
Dance Me to the End of Love – Madeline Peyroux (from Careless Love)
Harvest Moon – Cassandra Wilson (from New Moon Daughter)
Yvette in English – Joni Mitchell (from Turbulent Indigo)
The Dry Cleaner from Des Moines – Joni Mitchell (from Mingus)
Looking for beautiful wildlife habitats, mysterious plains, plentiful outdoor opportunities or perhaps the inner-workings of the state’s legislative process? All of these attractions and more can be found along the highways and byways of scenic Thurston County. Let’s go!
Cherry blossoms on the grounds of the state capitol.
Since Thurston County is host to the state capitol of Olympia, it’s a fairly accessible county to visit. Interstate-5, US-101/US-12 and SR-507 are all great routes into and through the county. That said, as Olympia plays such an important role in the operations of Washington State, it can sometimes be a bit crowded getting around the area. The keys to successful navigation are avoiding typical rush hours and knowing the back ways. However, if you’re specifically heading into Olympia proper, you might end up waiting in a bit of traffic. No one likes a backup, but since the area has so many great things to see and do, sometimes a little extra wait is worth it.
Since I’m coming from the Seattle area, I typically head south on I-5. When I have extra time, my favorite route is to come down from the north via beautiful US-101. The cross-section of the state you get to see on that highway is breathtaking and well worth the detour. However, since I’m typically heading either into Olympia or further south, I-5 is my regular approach. Other than the aforementioned Olympia traffic, I have no issues with this route as it leads directly through the gorgeous lands of the Billy Frank Jr. Nisqually National Wildlife Refuge, located just off the freeway near the city of Lacey.
Angel in the sky at the Nisqually Wildlife Preserve
Taken several months apart in different areas of the state…
For years, I’ve been caught up in the mind-numbing pulse of I-5 traffic. I’ve always made note of how beautiful the areas around Lacey are, but have never really made the effort to investigate. I’ve simply kept up with the flow of traffic and continued on to my destination. But the times, they are a-changin’ and I’m making a concerted effort to stop at all of the roadside attractions and back-road locales I can. Life is just too short to keep to the main roads. And with that in mind, I pulled off of I-5 at Exit 114 and drove towards the most stunning wildlife refuge…
Beautiful boardwalk trail through the preserve
Stunning scenery along the boardwalk path
The Nisqually River Delta – where the Nisqually flows into the Puget Sound
Established in 1974 and located in the Nisqually River Delta, the Nisqually National Wildlife Refuge is an absolutely gorgeous swath of land and habitat types. The freshwater of the Nisqually River and saltwater of Puget Sound combine in this area, resulting in a large variety of plant and animal life. On my recent visit, I saw all manner of birds, including a very majestic Blue Heron as well an amazing microcosm of life in the marshlands. The Visitor Center was unfortunately closed on my visit, but I was still able to hang out on their back observation deck and enjoy the scene. I was there near dusk and the sunset was absolutely peaceful and serene. Sigh… There are several small hikes in the area, but be sure to check out the Twin Barns Loop Trail and its lovely boardwalk. (No dogs allowed.)
Gorgeous landscape with courtesy angel sunset
The visitor center
Beautiful at dusk
After walking along the boardwalk and taking in all the beautiful scenery, I was getting a little hungry. I noticed a few restaurants and shops on the other side of the I-5 exit, so I decided to investigate. As I’m always in the market for an old-school burger, I was happy to come upon the Medicine Creek Café, owned and operated by longtime stewards of the area, the Nisqually Tribe. I’m so glad I stopped in as the burger and accompanying beer were great and they had fried pickles. SCORE! Amazing scenery and a tasty burger, all off of an unassuming highway exit. You just never know what you’re going to find…
Delicious burger and fried pickles!
Nisqually Indian Tribe decor at the cafe
For other tasty food options while in the Lacey area, head to Ricardo’s Steak & Seafood for delicious lobster bisque and a juicy steak or NW chain, Hops-n-Drops if you’d like to keep with the tasty burger theme. If you’re in need of tasty beverages, Lacey has a few great spots to check out:
If you love wowing your friends with unique drink concoctions, head to Salish Sea Organic Liqueurs and check out their expansive selection of small-batch liqueurs. Made with all organic ingredients, they are delicious on their own or in any number of drink combinations. Additionally, the staff was incredibly cool and happy to chat all things beverage. I brought home the Honeybush, Rose, Lavender and Hibiscus liqueurs and have been mad-sciencing tasty cocktails ever since. (Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.)
If you’re not driving, consider doing a tasting room crawl at Axis Meads, located in the same complex as Salish Sea Organic Liqueurs. They specialize in handcrafted honey meads made with delicious herbs and spices. Try the lavender mead! (Open Fridays and Saturdays)
Directly next door to Salish Sea Organic Liqueurs, you’ll find the Stottle Winery tasting room. Featuring delicious wines produced from Washington grapes, they can also be found in Hoodsport, in lovely Mason County. Try their Tempranillo! (Closed Mondays and Tuesdays)
Just a little further south in Lacey, you’ll find Top Rung Brewing. Owned and operated by two local firemen, they offer small-batch craft brews as well as seasonal varieties. Try the Lacey Lager and My Dog Scout Stout! (Tasting room is family and pet friendly. Local food trucks featured. Closed Mondays.)
And just a little further still, you’ll find the Madsen Family Cellars tasting room and winery. A local winery featuring Washington-grown grapes, they have wines to suit a variety of palates. The Beri’s Delight Riesling (named after the owner’s mother) and their 2010 Sangiovese are both lovely. (Closed Mondays and Tuesdays)
Not too far from the Nisqually National Wildlife Reserve, look for the Medicine Creek Winery. Located in an idyllic farm setting in the Nisqually Valley, they feature red wines in their very unique 1800s New Orleans brothel-themed barn. (Which includes a dance floor and stagecoach!) (Saturday – Sunday, Noon – 5pm)
Honeybush, Hibiscus and Rose liqueurs – SO delicious!
Many varieties and good amount of awards!
A relaxed tasting room at Salish Sea Liqueurs
Lacey sometimes gets outshined by the glow of its big-time neighbor, Olympia. However, there are many beautiful areas to visit before dipping your toe in the excitement of the state capitol. A few places to enjoy before you head up the Capitol steps:
There are five freshwater lakes in Lacey proper and Long Lake Park is a great one to check out. They have a large beach area with swimming and beach volleyball and the park is adjacent to a large, forested area with walking trails.
Located directly on Puget Sound, Tolmie State Park offers beautiful forested hikes, salt-water fishing, clamming and crabbing opportunities as well as a serene getaway from the hectic pace of nearby city life. (Discover Pass required)
Head to the Lacey Museum to learn about the town, culture and life of local residents from the 1800s and into the present day. And don’t miss their Sasquatch Revealed exhibit taking place from May 31st until September 29th! (Wednesday – Saturday, 10am – 4pm)
So lush!
A great shore to take a little stroll
Beautiful walks through the forest and towards the shore
Peaking out onto the Puget Sound
Beautiful plants at Tolmie State Park
Lush, mossy trees everywhere!
I grew up in Washington State and have vivid memories of seeing television ads for Olympia Beer with the ever-present “It’s the water” voice-over. Granted, Olympia Beer was technically produced in neighboring Tumwater, but it will always be synonymous with Olympia for me. (Same goes for Rainier Beer and Mt. Rainier.) Yes, Olympia also happens to be the state capitol and the area boasts a rich history for both Native American and western settlement. These are kind of important points and worthy of exploration and contemplation for any Washingtonian, including myself. That said, after my recent trek through Olympia and Thurston County, it’ll always be about the water, but now so much more…
Olympia Brewing may be closed, but the love lives on. (Taken at Well 80 in downtown Olympia)
You can’t miss Olympia as you’re driving along the I-5 corridor. The freeway cuts directly through the city and the state capitol can easily be seen, rising stately above the downtown area. (The Legislature Building is 287 feet tall and the tallest free-standing masonry dome in the country!) There are so many things to see and do in Olympia, but a fine place to start is indeed at the capitol.
The Washington State Capitol, with its beautifully manicured grounds, is a great place to visit any time of the year. (On the National Register of Historic Places) If you’re there late morning or early afternoon, bone up on your governmental knowledge and take a guided tour of the beautiful Legislative Building – Or enjoy the tour from the comfort of your desktop with their virtual tour. If you’re curious of how the Washington Supreme Court operates, you can view oral arguments in the courtroom of the imposing Temple of Justice building, located directly across from the Legislative Building. (The sessions are also broadcast live on Washington’s Public Affairs Station, TVW.) Legislative Building tours run on the hour from 10am to 3pm during the week and 11am to 3pm on weekends. The Temple of Justice is open on weekdays from 8am to 5pm. It is also possible to tour the oldest building on the capitol grounds, the Governor’s Mansion (c. 1909) on most Wednesdays.
The stately Insurance Building and beautifully manicured Capitol ground
Close up from the steps of the Insurance Building
A beautiful afternoon on the ground of the Capitol
Gorgeous cherry blossoms on the grounds of the Capitol
Beautiful ceiling details from the foyer of the Legislative Building entrance
The majestic Legislative Building
These light fixtures are huge!
Important goings-on behind those impressive doors…
The home of the Washington State Supreme Court
More giant light fixtures!
The Legislative Building is beautiful from all angles
If you happen to be visiting outside of regular business hours, there is still much to see and do. Check out the beautiful campus grounds, which are especially lovely in the spring with a large variety of flowering trees. The campus is also much less crowded after regular hours and you’ll have plenty of time to view the many monuments, memorials and art installations, not to mention the sweeping views of Capitol Lake and the West Bay of Budd Inlet from the majestic Capitol Steps. There is also access to beautiful walking and hiking paths leading down to Capitol Lake and around adjacent Heritage Park.
Gorgeous Magnolias in bloom on the Capitol grounds
Beautiful view of the Olympics and Capitol Lake
Sweeping view from the Capitol grounds of Capitol Lake, Heritage Park and Budd Inlett
Some of the beautiful Camellias bushes blooming on the Capitol campus
Not too far from the Capitol and on the West Bay of Budd Inlet, you’ll find Percival Landing. It’s one of three waterfront parks and conveniently close to the stellar Olympia Farmers Market. (Thurs – Sun, 10am – 3pm – April to Oct) The market and its surrounding areas are a goldmine of great shops, restaurants, waterfront access and an overall excellent way to spend a day. A permanent structure housing bakers, farmers, artists, butchers and more makes even rainy-day shopping fun and it’s hard to walk away without a big bag of goodies. They also have a covered stage with regular live music, several food vendors with outdoor seating and a very lovely manicured garden. Some of the spots I enjoyed on my recent visit:
There are several great food vendors to try, but since Dingey’s Puget Sound Cuisine had homemade crab cakes on the menu, how could I say no? Since I knew I’d be sampling more cuisine that day, I ordered the small plate and as soon as I dug in, I regretted not getting the bigger one. Next visit!
Delicious crab cakes at Dingey’s Puget Sound Cuisine
Grab a brat AND some crab cakes!
The jerky at Stewart’s Meats was fabulous and the cuts of meat in their butcher case looked very tasty. Next time I’ll be bringing home some steaks as well as more of their maple beef jerky (Located inside the Market and at their main location in nearby Yelm)
Delicious meats to be found at Stewarts!
Stewarts Maple Jerky is DELICIOUS!
The cheddar and chive cheese curds at TUNaWERTH Creamery were delicious. Next time I plan on bringing home some of their fresh cottage cheese. Mini cheese curds!
Directly across from the market, hit up the Dancing Goat Coffee Bar (also in Lacey) for a great cup of locally roasted coffee. Their flagship coffeehouse, the Batdorf & Bronson Coffeehouse is located in nearby downtown Olympia and well worth seeking out and if you consider yourself a coffee aficionado, head to the nearby Batdorf & Bronson Tasting Room to sample coffees from growing regions around the globe. (Located a couple blocks from the Farmers Market)
Let it be stated for the record that I have a weakness for macarons. If you suffer the same affliction, stop in at Macarons by Mel, located across from the Market and enjoy macaron greatness.
Achieve Macaron greatness at Macarons By Mel!
Located a few blocks down from the market, Olympia Seafood Co. sells the freshest of fresh seafood out of their warehouse shop. The list of fish they carry is impressive and their clam chowder and smoked salmon spread are absolutely delicious. I’m pretty sure I’d put that spread on anything!
Great tunes at the Market!
Stay out of the rain and enjoy the excellent market goods!
So many things to check out, sample and take home from the market!
Beautiful gardens next to the food vendor area
I spy a farmers market across the way…
Dancing Goat Espresso across from the market
If you’re interested in checking out the farmers in their home setting, these farms are all located in close proximity of the Olympia area and offer a fun day of exploring:
The Johnson Berry Farm Stand sells their delicious wares online and at the Olympia Farmers Market, but you can stop by their farm stand and enjoy the freshest of the fresh berries when in season. (Check website for hours and dates) They can also be found at Seattle’s Pike Place Market, the Puyallup Farmers Market and the Ballard Farmers Market.
Evergreen Valley Lavender Farm is open during the harvest season from mid-June through mid-August. (Check website for hours and dates) They offer many products in the gift shop featuring their lavender and are a very fragrant stop to make on a warm summer day.
Three artesian wells on the property feed the creek for which Ashley Creek Farm is named. Specializing in garlic, squash, pumpkins, corn, flowers and more, the farm is a great place to visit any time of year. Their store is open every day from 9am to 6pm, year-round and they regularly have events to suit the season.
The Schilter Family Farm features a fall festival with corn mazes and pumpkin patches as well as a Christmas tree farm beginning in late November. They’re located off of Exit 114, on the other side of I-5 and the Nisqually National Wildlife Refuge in Lacey.
Delicious produce to be found at the market!
Olympia has no shortage of great restaurants and several of them are very close to the Farmers Market. If you’d like to enjoy a delicious meal and possibly a great view of the water, these fine options are within walking distance – or a very quick drive – of the market:
Classic Olympia dining spot, Budd Bay Café overlooks the West Bay of Budd Inlet and sits next to the historic Fiddlehead Marina. (Note to self: They do have limited live-aboard slips available…) The seafood is delicious and watching the sailboats and my future yacht tool around the bay is an excellent way to pass the time. After your meal, take a stroll over to Percival Landing and check out the 100-year old Sand Man Tugboat and floating museum. (Open to the public and free to visit – On the National Register of Historic Places.)
Fiddlehead Marina with a view of the Capitol
Fiddlehead Marina has been a fixture in Olympia for quite a while!
Budd Bay Cafe – right on the water!
This Crab & Shrimp Louie salad was fresh and delicious!
Fresh chowder with sherry, homemade sourdough roll and a great glass of wine… Yes, please.
A beautiful view of Budd Inlet and Fiddlehead Marina
Outdoor dining!
The Dockside Bistro & Wine Bar features locally sourced ingredients in a delicious fusion of European and Southeast Asian styles. The wine selection is great and they also feature a full bar with craft cocktails. Open for lunch and dinner.
A local Olympia favorite since 1924 and recently revamped, the Olympia Oyster House serves up several varieties and preparations of delicious, local oysters and shellfish. Try any of the baked oyster dishes! Located near Percival Landing and the Sand Man Tugboat. Open for lunch and dinner and featuring great outdoor seating.
If you’re looking to keep it casual, stop by the Oly Taproom for a great local brew and a view of the bay from their outdoor seating area. They also offer a limited pizza menu.
NW favorite, Anthony’s Homeport is just across from the market on Budd Inlet with views of the marina and the Port Plaza (Port Plaza has a public dock and offers short term moorage) After a delicious meal of perhaps pan-fried oysters or Dungeness crab cakes, be sure to climb the steps of the viewing tower located near the docks. The view is wonderful!
Ferry repairs down on the docks – Near Anthony’s Homeport
Tiny sailboats out of the Fiddlehead Marina area
Check out the sights from the Viewing Tower by Anthony’s Homeport
The historic, downtown core of Olympia is a great place to visit, filled with funky shops, clubs, restaurants, murals, artesian wells and more. (The historic downtown area is on the National Register of Historic Places) It’s an incredibly eclectic mix of history and commerce and is a must for experiencing the full flavor of the area. Here’s a small handful of the many cool spots in the downtown area:
Olympia’s oldest brewpub (since 1993), the Fish Tale Brewpub is an excellent place to visit for pub fare and tasty brews from nearby Fish Brewing Company. (Or cider from their sister cider-brewing company, Spire Mountain.) Featuring great burgers, pub favorites like shepherd’s pie and delicious local seafood, they’re a perfect stop along your downtown tour. They also have a taproom in the Woodinville area.
Drink a tasty brew, sit outside and enjoy the sun…
Housed inside the historic 222 Market on Capitol Way North are a very cool collection of shops and restaurants. Hit up the Chelsea Farms Oyster Bar for all variety of oysters along with fresh chowder, shrimp and grits, craft cocktails and more – And then head directly across the hall and sample the excellent offerings from local distillery, Shoebox Spirits. (While there, I picked up a delicious bloody Mary mix from The Real Dill to go with their excellent, Single Malt Vodka. The staff is also fabulous! HOTUPDATE: I stopped by the other day and they’re moving the entire operation to Tumwater! Stay tuned to their Facebook Page for updates.) For dessert, consider a homemade scoop from Sofie’s Scoops Gelateria, located just around the hallway. And a must-try for any visit to the 222 Market are any of the offerings from French-style bakery and café, The Bread Peddler. Also part of the Bread Peddler family and located in 222 Market is the Peddler Bistro. (Check Bread Peddler website as hours/days vary for each spot)
Delicious treats to be had at the 222 Market
Try some homemade gelato at Sofie’s Scoops Gelateria
Several tasty beverage options at Shoebox Spirits
The goods at the Bread Peddler are delicious!
Stop in for fresh oysters at Chelsea Farms
Their Single Malt Vodka is fantastic!
The appropriately named Well 80 Artesian Brewing sits atop one of Olympia’s famous artesian wells by the name of… Well 80. Paying homage to the great brewing tradition of the Olympia and Tumwater areas, Well 80 brews craft beers in the tradition of Olympia Beer founder, Leopold Schmidt. So much so, one of their recent small-batch brews goes by the name of ‘Leopold’s #1 Lager’ and follows a recipe from one of Leopold’s recently discovered, handwritten notebooks. (Translated from German!) It was also created in partnership with a former brewmaster from Olympia Beer, Paul Knight. (Brewmaster from 1974 – 1997. That’s a lot of brewing!) Stop in and try this tribute to the origins of now famous, Olympia Beer before it’s gone – and grab one of their delicious burgers (w/tots!) or pizzas to enjoy with it! The lager truly is delicious and won’t be around long as they only produced a relatively small batch. Don’t miss out on tasting a bit of brewing history!
These roasted Brussels sprouts (and tots!) were delicious!!
Whitewood Cider on the left and the excellent Leopold’s #1 Lager on the right. It’s the water!
Tots AND hand dipped chicken bites with pineapple habanero sauce… WOW!
Wide open and comfortable…
It’s the water!
On the topic of artesian wells (and the mysterious Artesians who make the water), the Jefferson Street Well, located near a parking lot just off the Corner of Jefferson Street and 4th Avenue, is an awesome and publicly accessible artesian well. Fill up your water bottle and bask in the pristine freshness of ancient waters bubbling up from deep below the surface. And keep an eye out for Artesians…
The public artesian well on Jefferson and 4th – It’s the FREE water!
My friend Emily doesn’t need a silly bottle…
24/7 – Delicious, cool and free!
If all that looking for Artesians has made you hungry – and thirsty – there are many more places in the downtown area to check out:
The McMenamins Spar Café is another beer-brewing establishment making great use of an onsite artesian well. (Well water estimated to be about 3,300 years old, according to hydrology studies) The Spar Café is a long time fixture of the downtown Olympia area and is now owned by the northwest McMenamin family. They specialize in restoring and renovating beloved NW sites into restaurants and cool inns. The Spar Café is no exception and is a great place to stop for a meal and an artesian brew. Located on 4th Avenue in downtown Olympia.
Three Magnets Brewing Co. is a great local brewpub with a creative menu including scratch pimento cheese dip, pork belly sliders, lamb burgers and more. Located about a block behind Fish Tale Brewing on Franklin Street.
Over a few blocks from downtown and overlooking the lovely Capitol Lake, Swing Wine Bar serves small plates and full dinners along with a nice selection of wines, cocktails and local beers. (Closed Sundays)
Serving diner-style delicacies to Olympians for generations, King Solomon’s Reef offers delicious food, kitsch and cocktails from their “Breakfast in the front, party in the back!” location on 4th Avenue in downtown Olympia.
Just down from King Solomon’s Reef is the Octapas Café, serving inventive, small-plate tapas dishes, house specialties, tasty beverages and regular live music.
Rush in Alaskan Dumplings was closed on my recent visit, but I’ll be back. If there’s any type of dumpling involved, I need to try it. It’s just a part of my foodie makeup. Furthermore, they serve my favorite type of dumplings, pelmeni. Oh, I’ll definitely be back…
Housed in the beautiful old Security Building (c. 1927) in downtown Olympia, Dillinger’s Cocktails & Kitchen is an excellent night out. Serving old school cocktails as well as new creations, this is definitely the cool place to imbibe in Olympia. Their food menu echoes the ‘old-school meets new’ vibe and features locally sourced ingredients – and they feature a Sunday evening special prix-fixe meal for $35. You can even hold a private party in the bank’s old vault! Live music on Monday nights.
If you’re looking for a cool club with regular great music, head to Rhythm and Rye in the downtown corridor and stay out late! Come on – all the cool kids are doin’ it… If a little ivory tickling is more your fancy, stop in at Tipsy Piano Bar and enjoy a few Jazz and Pop standards along with dinner and cocktails. Brunch on the weekends.
Tapas and more at the Octapas Cafe in downtown Olympia.
Stop in for a great cup of coffee at Batdorf & Bronson’s downtown location
The classic Spar Cafe in downtown Olympia
PELMENI!
Stop in for an old-school cocktail at Dillinger’s Cocktails & Kitchen
I think the sign says it all…
There’s a lot to learn during a trip to downtown or to the Capitol and the Bigalow House Museum can help further your education. Said to be the oldest residence in Olympia (c. 1850s and occupied by generations of the Bigalow family up until 2005), it’s open for tours and is an excellent peek into the lives of one of Olympia’s most influential families. Check out the Olympia Historical Society Events page for tour info.
While there are many fabulous dining and drinking establishments in Olympia, there are also many excellent shops, outdoor activities and cool locales to explore. A handy counterpart to any celebratory pounds one might gain during their Olympia gorge-fest culinary explorations… In addition to the beautiful strolls around the capitol and its surrounds, take a stroll around downtown and take in the scene.
A very cool mural off of Jefferson Street in downtown Olympia
Perking up the parking lots on Capitol Way North
One of the very cool downtown Olympia murals
Check out the cool murals of downtown!
Rebecca Howard mural on the 222 Market in downtown Olympia
The SS TJ Potter mural celebrates the famous turn-of-last-century NW steamboat
There are so many excellent local shopping opportunities in the core of downtown Olympia. Hot Toddy features quirky, vintage-inspired clothing and accessories as well as a few pairs of shoes I know I need… The dangerously cool, modern Compass Rose is a lovely gift shop with at least 372 items I really needed. Last Word, a great independent book store with friendly staff and books stuffed into every corner and piled to the ceiling, is somewhere I could get happily lost for hours. Serving Olympia for the past 80 years, Browsers Bookshop is another gem of independent book-selling, set in a beautiful old building with a wrap-around upper floor. The Mouse Trap features delicious cheese and wines and is located next door to Dillinger’s Cocktails. Peacock Vintage on 4th Avenue carries both quirky and elegant antiques – and a very cool collection of owl kitsch. My friend, Emily picked up a very cool vintage map of Chicago on our recent visit. The Archibald Sisters gift shop is an excellent spot to stop if you’re in need of any number of hilarious gifts, funky socks, greeting cards and much more.
The iconic Browsers Bookshop in downtown Olympia
SO many cool things at Compass Rose in downtown Olympia
Excellent gifts to be found at Compass Rose
A very cool and funky boutique in downtown Olympia
Funky displays at Hot Toddy
I could’ve stayed for hours…
Stuffed to the ceiling!
I’m going to need to return for that groovy hanging light fixture…
The Chehalis Western Trail is an easy-going, 22-mile (round trip) trail running from Olympia and into rural Thurston County areas. It’s easy to pop on and off, but a good entrance is on 14th Avenue SE, near Chambers Lake in SE Olympia.
Columbus Park at Black Lake offers great camping, swimming, fishing and boating opportunities in West Olympia. An oasis in the city, the park has been operating since 1926 and is a very popular site for year-round recreation.
If you’d like to upgrade from the tent or camper, check out the lovely Swantown Inn & Spa located in a quiet neighborhood in SE Olympia. Built in 1887 and on city and state historical registers, it offers bed and breakfast along with several day spa services. #Dreamy
It is no secret that I love boats. It’s an even lesser guarded secret that I want to own a boat… In the meantime, I’m considering living out my nautical fantasies on one of the Mystic Journeys Sailboat Charter I’m presently eyeing the “Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival Cruise” 6-day tour. I’m not attracted to the big cruise ship shenanigans, but this is a cruise I could get on board with… literally. Ba-doom-ching! Thank you, thank you, I’ll be here all week! Or at least for a few more paragraphs… Try the artesian beers!
Priest Point Park is a large park in NE Olympia with saltwater shoreline at Ellis Cove, several miles of hiking trails and day-use activities. Long a part of the indigenous peoples’ lives, the area was also once a church and a mission in the mid-1800s.
The campus at nearby Evergreen College is just as the name describes: Evergreen. Beautiful trees everywhere, plenty of trails, a private beach and even an organic farm are all features of the campus grounds. Offering customizable Bachelor of Arts and Bachelor of Science degrees, it’s a very unique school with a unique approach to teaching and learning. Even if your studies are behind you, it’s a beautiful place to explore, any time of year.
The beautiful path around Heritage Park near the Capitol
Not a bad view from Heritage Park…
Just southwest of the Olympia core lies the small city of Tumwater. Often considered part of Olympia, it is a fully functioning and very important city, all on its own. Situated where the Deschutes River flows into Budd Inlet, it has long been a pivotal area for trade and commerce for both Native Americans and western settlers.
One of the most important residents of the Tumwater area – and of Washington State altogether – was George Washington Bush. (No relation to the former Bush presidents) Had this man and his family not traveled (and largely funded) an expedition on the Oregon Trail from Missouri, Washington might not be the state it is today.
Bush, whose father was of African descent and mother, an Irish-American servant, was one of the first multiracial settlers in the northwest. In 1844, he and the white families he was traveling with – all friends and neighbors from Missouri – had initially planned to settle in Oregon. However, due to racial prejudices barring settlements of African-Americans, they were forced to alter their plans. The families didn’t want to separate so Bush and Michael Simmons, another incredibly instrumental person in the story of Washington State, moved the entire party and eventually settled in the Puget Sound area, near Deschutes Falls in 1845.
Along the way to the Olympia area, they also spent time north of the Columbia River in what is now Clark County. South of the river was considered Oregon County and was under joint US and British control. North of the river was controlled by the British-run Hudson’s Bay Company who didn’t discriminate against Bush and his family. The men worked for the Hudson’s Bay Company during this time and it became a valuable connection when navigating the tough times to come.
Bush and his family had settled further up the Deschutes River in prairie land they named Bush Prairie. During their time in the area, he and his wife, Isabella, were instrumental in helping their neighbors through tough winters and forging relationships between the Nisqually Tribe and the Hudson’s Bay Company. They also offered free lodging to travelers and immigrants coming through the area and regularly gave away free grain and food to neighbors. Through their relationship with the Nisqually tribe and Chief Leschi, they learned the Nisqually language and the Nisqually taught them about local plants, seafood and more. These relationships and their generosity to friends and local residents were key in the community growing and beginning to thrive; key to the community gaining the strength to grow into a state. Had Bush and his family not given so freely, we very well might not have the Washington State we enjoy today.
After the 1846 Oregon Treaty brought the Washington Territory into Oregon, there was worry that Bush and his family would be unable to keep their land due to Oregon’s discriminatory laws. However, after the Washington Territory was separated from Oregon in 1853, the many people Bush had helped through the years, some of whom had become very influential, helped to get an exception via Congress to ensure his family would retain the Bush Prairie land and property. Unfortunately, the fight wasn’t over and early Washington State leaders wanted to ban non-whites from the area. It was then that Bush’s longtime friend and supporter, Michael Simmons, led a strong opposition and ensured the state did not adopt the exclusionary laws.
George Bush and his wife, Isabella are now buried in Tumwater at the Bush/Union/Pioneer/Calvary Cemetery. The cemetery is on the National Register of Historic Places and is a fine place to pay tribute to Bush and all of the Washingtonians who made this state into the wonderful place it is today.
Leopold Schmidt had this placed in tribute of the first settlers in Tumwater
Tribute to Michael Simmons, George Bush, James McAllister, Gabriel Jones and their families – All first settlers in the Tumwater area.
The many artesian wells in the greater Olympia and Tumwater areas have long supplied water to local residents. As previously described, they’re still providing water – and in turn, delicious beer – to the area. Beer was first brewed in Tumwater in 1896 at the Olympia Brewing Company, founded by Leopold Schmidt. (Originally named ‘Capital Brewing Company’) The brewery is said to have drawn their famous waters from a series of 26 artesian wells located below the brewery. That’s a lot of water! Sadly, the brewery closed in 2003, but you can still visit adjacent Tumwater Falls Park and beautiful Deschutes River. From this location, you can see not only the Old Brewhouse, but are able to stand front and center before the epic Tumwater falls as they cascade into the river. Cheers to those Artesians! (Click HERE for a great video tour of the Old Brewhouse and interview with the last Olympia Brewery brewmaster, Paul Knight.)
Tumwater Falls and the Deschutes River
The falls break off into a few different sections
Meandering down to Puget Sound
A couple of different ways to cross the river
Just after the falls
After enjoying the beautiful falls and taking in the scene, be sure to check out the park. Walk through the well-manicured native plants garden and stroll alongside the Deschutes River on the beautiful riverside path. Also be sure to locate the Leopold Schmidt monument which pays tribute to Tumwater and Olympia’s first western settlers, including the remarkable, George Washington Bush. To further your knowledge of Tumwater’s history, make a visit to the nearby Schmidt House and check out the Schmidt House tour. (On the National Register of Historic Places)
A beautiful and serene walk along the Deschutes River
A little bit of construction going on at the park, but it’s still about the water!
Lovely native plants and flowers in the park garden
Tart Cider and tasting room features delicious hard cider varieties made from Washington State apples and fruit juices. Kid and dog friendly. Open Thursday – Sunday. Check website for hours.
Matchless Brewing is a very cool taproom and brewery featuring rotating taps and all things hoppy. Kid and dog friendly with food trucks providing sustenance. (Open Wednesday – Sunday, with a 7pm curfew for kids)
Add to your Warehouse District taproom crawl and stop by Triceratops Brewing Company and enjoy their Pennsyltucky Lagers or Sammy IPA. (Closed Monday – Wednesday)
Located across from the airport, Spuds Produce features local gourmet and specialty wares along with fresh produce, an excellent craft beer section, meats and cheeses. On my last visit, I picked up some excellent smoked albacore tuna from Tumwater’s Briney Sea Delicaseas. Yum! (Check out the original Spuds Produce location in Olympia, too!)
Many cool places to visit in the Deschutes Landing Warehouse District
Many great treats to check out at Spuds Produce in the Warehouse District
Check out Spud’s Market in the Warehouse District!
Delicious beers to be enjoyed at the Matchless Brewing tasting room in the Warehouse District
To investigate one of the state’s more mysterious features, head south on I-5 towards the Capitol State Forest and the ever-intriguing, grassy prairie lands of the Mima Mounds Natural Area Preserve. (A National Natural Landmark, along with the nearby Nisqually River Delta.) Off of I-5, take Exit 95 and turn west onto SR-121. (Maytown Road SW) toward Littlerock. After a lovely meander through the back-roads, you’ll arrive at a landscape that has long puzzled scientists and amazed visitors.
Many theories as to the nature of the mounds have been entertained for generations. Burial mounds, earthquakes, flood sediments, pocket gophers excavating nest chambers and the most popular theory, glacial melt-water causing erosion between the trees and shrubs, have all been explored. What scientists do know is the mounds were somehow formed when ice-age glaciers began receding 16,500 years ago. At any rate, they’re fascinating and just a little bit eerie to take in as you look out over the prairie.
Visiting the Mima Mounds is quite an experience. Trails wind in and around the mounds and there are observations decks which allow you to look out over the landscape and marvel at the formations. The area is open from 8:30 to 5:30pm, October to March and until 8:30pm from April to September. A Discover Pass is required. (Note: Don’t be alarmed if you hear gunshot when first arriving in the parking area. There is an outdoor gun range on the opposite side of the mounds. It’s a good distance away and they’re shooting in the opposite direction, but there can be a bit of an echo. Head to the left after entering the prairie area and you’ll get mostly out of earshot.)
Behold, the mysterious Mima Mounds!
Follow the winding path through the Mima Mounds
Beautiful trees in the forest next to the Mima Mounds
Great forest area to explore on the outskirts of the Mima Mounds
Mima Mounds – National Natural Landmark
Nurse trees in the forest near the Mima Mounds
If you’re looking to make a longer trip of your Mima Mound investigations, a great place to camp and further investigate the area is nearby Millersylvania State Park. Largely built by the CCCs in the 1930’s, it’s a step back in time with its log-constructed kitchen shelters, summertime snack bar and tree-lined shorelines. (On the National Register of Historic Places) There’s a non-motorized boat launch, kayak and canoe rentals, swimming, camping, great hiking paths through the neighboring wetlands – so many things to do! (Discover pass required)
Guest cottage on the lake
A beautiful calm day on the lake
Looks perfect for a swim!
Great old buildings on the park grounds
Snacks and boats for the warm summer days
Trees and picnics!
But beer in other containers is cool? (Obviously not in the parking lot, but in the actual park?) Details…
Lovely boardwalk path through the Millersylvania State Park wetlands
Who knew Radagast the Brown lived in the wetlands at Millersylvania State Park??
If the family isn’t down with the camping plan, check out the Great Wolf Lodge in neighboring Grand Mound. Offering overnight stays as well as limited day-passes, the lodge features an indoor waterpark, an outdoor ropes course, activities for the whole family and many dining and shopping options. And if you’re up for a little geo-cache style adventure, head over to nearby Tenino Grand Mound Road SW (Old Hwy 99) and look for an Oregon Trail marker placed by the Daughters and Sons of the American Revolution in 1916.
Continuing on Old Hwy 99 will bring you to the charming town of Tenino. On the National Register of Historic Places, the downtown core quaintly represents and celebrates the many generations of residents. There is a good variety of commerce and modern convenience, but it effortlessly exists amongst turn of the (last) century buildings and design sense. On my most recent visit, there were both cars and horses parked in the downtown area. Both kinds of horse power! Tenino certainly understands the ‘best of both worlds’ concept.
Both kinds of horse power!
It would be entirely easy to spend the day enjoying the downtown Tenino scene. A few places to consider as you plan your visit:
Start your Tenino tour by getting acquainted with the town’s history at the Tenino Depot Museum. Located at Tenino City Park, the museum is housed in what used to be the local train depot building. (c. 1914) They have great displays representing the town’s history, but they also have a cool virtual tour available online.
The aforementioned Tenino City Park and its very unique Quarry Pool are an absolute must when visiting the area. The park offers camping, hiking and picnicking opportunities, but the coolest feature is the quarry pool. Originally the town’s sandstone quarry in the late 1800s before they struck a spring and it filled up with water, now serves as the community swimming hole. (Pool is open Wednesday – Sunday, noon to 6pm from the end of June through September 1st)
That way to the Tenino Depot Museum!
The Tenino Quarry Pool
Welcome to the Tenino Quarry Pool!
Water terrace at the Quarry Pool
Chunky style quarry rocks near the pool
If you happen to be in Tenino on a summer Saturday, head to the Tenino Farmers Market for all the best of local produce and artisan goods. (Saturdays, May through September, 10am – 3pm – on Olympia Street, near the park)
The Tenino Antique Mall features a very eclectic array of antiques and vintage wear. There was a little bit of everything tucked into the many stalls. There were SO many things I wanted, but I played it cool. However, I could not say no to a screamin’ deal on a vintage clarinet. That one’s for you, Grandpa Smith! And I promise, I will start playing again…
Here’s to my Grandpa Smith!
‘Lots of cool antiques in Tenino
I think I need those lamps. I love lamp.
Everybody loves getting a call from a beagle!
A great day for antique hunting!
I’m guessing all the exploring and swimming in quarry pools might make one hungry – and thirsty. I know it did me! (Disclaimer: I didn’t actually swim in the quarry pool. I was very busy buying vintage clarinets… Next time!) Here are a few excellent spots to help curb your appetite:
Located conveniently next door to a dentist’s office, Aunt Kate’s Chocolates offers a lovely selection of handcrafted chocolates and treats. A section of the shop is also dedicated to tea parties and special tasting events and they carry a nice selection of teas for the occasion. Located on Sussex Avenue in the historic downtown area.
So many options!
I’ll take one (or three) of each!
Enjoy your chocolates with a tea party!
Just in case you eat too many of those chocolates…
Chocolate covered potato chips. DELICIOUS!
Just across the street from Aunt Kate’s, grab a cup of coffee and a cupcake at Western Coffee Company & Café. Serving breakfast and lunch, they offer a great menu of classic comfort food, baked goods and great coffee.
Also serving breakfast and lunch and just down from Western Coffee Co., Sandstone Café serves up great, diner-style fare in a well-loved, old Tenino setting.
Located in the heart of historic downtown Tenino on Sussex Avenue, Scatter Creek Winery & Brewery offers wine and craft beer in a beautiful, sandstone-walled tasting room. I was in a wine sort of mood the day I visited, but the list of brews was intriguing. Beer will be on my agenda for the next Tenino visit! I did, however, enjoy a great wine-tasting and chat with the very friendly owners. I happily took home bottles of their Valley de Bon Blanco and TheBig Jake (Cabernet) and am looking forward to grabbing more on my next visit.
Lovely tasting room setting at Scatter Creek
A great day for wine tasting…
On your way into Tenino, off of Old Hwy 99 and Tilly Rd SW, stop in at Sandstone Distillery and enjoy a sampling of their handcrafted whiskies, gins and vodkas. (They have a bacon whiskey!) Small-batch distilling in a laid back locale – a great afternoon! They also make Wild Heart sipping vinegars (shrubs) for all of your creative cocktail needs.
Mentioned earlier in the article and found at the Olympia Farmers Market, TUNaWERTH Creamery is located just before you get to Tenino, off of Old Hwy 99 SE and Melville Street SE. Stop in for their delicious cheeses, yogurts and milk. And those delicious garlic and chives cheddar curds…
Stop in for a great cup of coffee!
Working in conjunction with the crew at Well 80
Time stands still in downtown Tenino
The Landmark Tavern in downtown Tenino
Since I was ultimately heading back to the Seattle area, I decided to take Old Hwy 99 back towards Olympia and I-5. Another nice route is to take SR-507 out of Tenino, heading towards Yelm and then SR-510 back to I-5. If you happen to opt for the Old Hwy 99 route, there are a few great places to stop along the way:
Located off Old Hwy 99 on Offut Road SE, non-profit Wolf Haven International is an amazing place to visit. Reservations are required for a guided, 50-min tour of this sanctuary for captive-born and displaced wolves. They have a ‘Wolves and Wine’ fundraising event coming up on September 28th at Saint Martin’s University in Lacey. (Closed Tues – Thurs)
If you’re looking for local fishing opportunities, Offutt Lake, located just up the road from Wolf Haven International has a good trout population. And if you don’t happen to catch your dinner, stop in at the nearby Lady of the Lake Public House for some fish and chips, the easy way. The pub is part of the Offut Lake Resort, which offers camping and lodging on the lake.
Beautiful farmland along the drive to Yelm
Should you decide upon the Yelm route, via SR-507, enjoy the scenic pastures and stunning views of Mt. Rainier as you head northwest. Once you arrive in Yelm, there are several great options for food, drink and more in this tiny yet influential town.
If you’re looking for tasty BBQ, along with delicious breakfast, burgers and more, stop in at The Cattleman and fill up. I recommend their pulled pork and coleslaw. I can’t remember the name of the dish I ordered, but the pulled pork came served on a cornbread base, topped with baked beans and coleslaw – and tots! It was incredibly tasty and very I had plenty left over for lunch the next day!
Located in historic downtown Yelm, the Masonry Café offers tasty soups, sandwiches, baked goods and more as well as local catering services.
Burn off the barbecue on the nearby Yelm-Tenino Trail. Once a local railroad line, it boasts 14.5 miles of great walking and biking trail and intersects w/the Chehalis Western Trail out of Olympia.
If you’re looking for a cool place to stay in Yelm, check out the Prairie Hotel on Prairie Park Lane. Modern rooms with an urban flair. The hotel is right down the street from the comfortable Yelm Cinemas and the funky Uptown Lounge, a 21+ lounge featuring great food, cocktails and live music.
Featuring a parade, street dance, pie baking contest, food vendors and more, the annual Prairie Days Festival is a great way to celebrate the community with the whole family. (End of June at Yelm City Park)
Head to Yelm City Park during the warmer months and visit the Yelm Farmers Market. Check out what the local farmers and artisans have to offer. (Saturdays, 10am – 3pm, May 25th – October 26th)
The Yelm Historical Museum is a fine place to learn about the town’s past as well as that of surrounding areas. After NW explorer, James Longmire settled in the Yelm Prairie area, he set his sights on nearby Mount Rainier. As he carried out his now well-known exploration into the area, Yelm became known as the gateway to Mount Rainier. Learn about this and more of Yelm’s important contributions to the history of the Washington Territory at the museum. (Open noon to 4pm, Wednesday – Saturday, mid-March through mid-November)
Heading out of Yelm, follow Bald Hill Road from the intersection of SR-507 and SR-510 and head to beautiful Deschutes Falls Park. Enjoy the stunning falls and beautiful surroundings of this tucked-away gem of a park.
If you’re feeling lucky as you head back up SR-510 towards the I-5 corridor, stop in at Nisqually Red Wind Casino and try your hand at their slots or table games. Or, play it tasty and simply grab a bite at one of their onsite restaurants or lounges.
The Cattleman BBQ in Yelm
This was seriously delicious. Seriously!
Hangin’ out at The Cattleman in Yelm
Old school Prairie Lanes in downtown historic Yelm
The White Horse Tavern and Masonry Cafe in historic downtown Yelm
Water for Yelm!
And back to Seattle it was time to go… Until next time, Thurston County! It’s a given I’ll make many more trips up and down the I-5 corridor, but knowing how many amazing stops await just off the freeway will add so much more potential to the journeys. I just need to be mindful of avoiding that freeway daze and pay closer attention to the back-roads and byways. Maybe I’ll learn about more of the amazing people who helped shape the state into its present form. Perhaps I’ll come upon a gorgeous waterfall or hiking trail I never knew existed. Maybe I’ll avoid a bit of that crazy traffic through the greater Olympia area… So much potential!
On a broader note, not only are explorations around your home town important, but for anywhere you happen to visit. You never know what could be hiding around the corner, waiting to pop out and expand your understanding of the world around you. Take those exits off the freeway you’ve always wondered about. Stop in at that interesting looking café and order something out of your comfort-food zone. Eat the state! Eat the world!!
Cheers!
Greetings from Washington State Capitol!
I Ate the State: Thurston County – Check out the Spotify playlist HERE
The theme for the day was covers of favorite songs…
If You Love Somebody Set Them Free – Nils Landgren (from 4 Wheel Drive)
Lady Madonna – Nils Landgren (from 4 Wheel Drive)
Right Down the Line – Lucius (from NUDES)
Landslide – Stacey Kent (from Breakfast on the Morning Train)
River Mann – Lizz Wright (from Freedom & Surrender)
Just Like Heaven – Kat Edmonson (from Take to the Sky)
Jesus, Etc. – Puss N Boots (from No Fools, No Fun)
Don’t Think Twice It’s Alright – Chris Thile, Brad Mehldau (from Chris Thile & Brad Mehldau)
Falling in Love Again (feat. Alison Krauss) – John Prine, Alison Krauss (from For Better Or Worse)
Wichita Lineman – Live at RAK – Villagers (from Where Have You Been All My Life?)
Shine on You Crazy Diamond – Christy Moore (from Listen)
Every Little Thing She Does Is Magic – Jacob Collier, Metropole Orkest, Jules Buckley (from Djesse Vol. 1)
God Only Knows – The Langley Schools Music Project (from Innocence and Despair)
Kid A – Punch Brothers (from Who’s Feeling Young Now?)
Send My Love (To Your New Lover) – I’m With Her, Paul Kowert (from Send My Love (To Your New Lover) Live)
Free Fallin’ – Live at the Nokia Theatre, Los Angeles, CA – December 2007 – John Mayer (from Where the Light Is: John Mayer Live in Los Angeles)
The Sound of Silence – Live at Benaroya Hall with the Seattle Symphony, Seattle, WA – November 2010 – Brandi Carlile, Hanseroff Twins (from Brandi Carlile: Live at Benaroya Hall with the Seattle Symphony)
Can’t Let Go – Charlie Hunter, Lucy Woodward (from Can’t Let Go)
What A Wonderful World – Serena Fisseau, Vincent Peirani (from What A Wonderful World)
She’s Leaving Home (feat. Tori Amos) – Miloš Karadaglić (from Blackbird – The Beatles Album)
Wish You Were Here – The Milk Carton Kids (from Wish You Were Here)
New Slang – Alex Guilbert Trio (from On the Ground with the Alex Guilbert Trio)
America – First Aid Kit (from America)
Mandolin Rain – Ricky Skaggs, Bruce Hornsby (from Ricky Skaggs & Bruce Hornsby)
The Fool on the Hill – Sergio Mendes and Brasil ’66 (from The Greatest Hits of Sergio Mendes & Brasil ’66)
Here Comes the Sun – Richie Havens (from Live at the Cellar Door & at the Santa Monica Civic Auditorium)
About a year ago, I visited sunny Puerto Vallarta and it was amazing. The landscapes, the culture, the food – everything was spectacular and I was looking forward to returning someday. I wasn’t planning on returning quite this soon, but when the opportunity arose, who was I to ignore it? My friend had been planning on visiting the area with her sister, but since she was unable to get away, I joined the adventure in her place. Sun-soaked beaches, art-packed streets and delicious margaritas? Bring it on!
~ For a look at last year’s Puerto Vallarta trip – my first ever to Mexico – check out the adventures HERE. ~
Not a bad sight to greet the weary traveler…
Getting an incredibly early start on our day of departure (5:45am!) put us in Puerto Vallarta around 2:30pm. It was perfect as it allowed for a solid amount of time to check into our condo and take care of the necessary “errands” for the week. (i.e. Purchasing tequila, snacks, ice, coffee, etc. You know – The necessities.) That said, getting to the airport in time for a 5:45am flight wasn’t conducive to any sort of worthwhile, preparatory rest. I was fighting off yet another cold (still lingering from my recent Scottish holiday adventures) and my two hours of sleep didn’t really cut the mustard. To say I arrived in Puerto Vallarta a little out of sorts was an understatement.
The customary Bloody Mary Kick-off!
Lack of sleep is detrimental to many things; cognitive skills and memory being two such items. These abilities are required for activities such as filling out important immigration forms, carrying on intelligible conversations with foreign officials and remembering ATM pin numbers. Luckily, I was able to successfully navigate the first two obstacles, lack of sleep be damned. The swift recollection of my ATM pin, however, was an entirely different and sad matter…
As was the case with our last adventure, we waited to procure our Mexican pesos until arrival in Puerto Vallarta. While waiting in line to use the ATM, patting myself on the back for appearing mostly composed while entering the country, a thought suddenly struck; like a bolt of lightning, in fact. OMG – WHAT IS MY PIN NUMBER??
For the record, I have never forgotten my pin number. Additionally, I know my debit card and several credit card numbers by heart. The card I’d planned on using was the one I use every day – with my pin number. EVERY. DAY. Yet, as I stood there, mind blank and fuzzy, I couldn’t be exactly sure of the precise collection of pin numbers or their order. I totally panicked.
Still panicking, it was my turn at the ATM. I approached, palms sweating (which could’ve just been the crazy, afternoon heat) and pulled out my debit card. My mind was racing with possible number combinations and my hand was attempting to auto-recall the pattern on the number pad. While I was fairly certain I remembered the numbers, I couldn’t be entirely sure. To quote Pee-Wee Herman in Pee-Wee’s Big Adventure, “The mind plays tricks on you – You play tricks back…”
After two failed attempts, I stepped away from the ATM. I knew I only had a limited number of tries before the bank blocked my card, so I thought I’d let things settle for a while. Perhaps a bit of rest, reflection and beach gazing would do the trick. Thankfully, my friend knew I was good for it and since she had apparently remembered her pin number, we were able to pay for the taxi to our condo. We were both convinced I’d be able to sort this out later in the afternoon and off to enjoy the day we went.
I could get used to this…
Beautiful flowers on the deck with the Los Muertos Pier in the background
After a fairly short cab ride to our condo, La Palapa, in the heart of Old Town Puerto Vallarta (aka: the Romantic Zone), we checked in and surveyed the scene. Last year, we stayed a little closer to the main part of the Malecon, but this time we were more in the center of the Old Town and directly on the expansive Los Muertos Beach. I loved where we stayed last year and would probably choose it for my next stay, but being directly on the beach and all of its activity was really quite lovely. (In all fairness, last year’s spot was also close to the beach, but you had to walk all the way across a 10-foot wide walkway (the Malecon) to get there. The horror.)
Scene of many margarita mixings…
A lovely rooftop pool
The condo living room – complete with a very firm, concrete-base sofa!
My spacious room overlooking the beach
A very roomy deck to hang out on…
Dolphins playing in the rooftop pool!
After we each claimed our respective rooms in the condo and got the lay of things, we set out to take care of important errands. Since I wasn’t feeling quite up to “adventure mode,” my main plans were to spend time resting and relaxing, living out my foodie dreams and maybe getting in a bit of writing. I’d been envisioning myself, ala Hemingway, enjoying the tranquil grace of the Old Town and soaking up the Arts scene. Throw in a spa treatment or two, some good tequila and a few beautiful sunsets and my time in Puerto Vallarta would be perfect. (All of which gloriously transpired.)
Procuring the essentials is of the utmost importance for a well-enjoyed holiday. A few places to help pave the way towards a relaxing and rejuvenating stay in Puerto Vallarta:
First things, first. Tequila is important. Good tequila is even more important. Don’t get caught in the tourist-trap tequila shops on and around the Malecon. Instead, head to Vinos América where the prices and selection are much better – and there’s air-conditioning! We visited the location in the Old Town area. A few times… We also found a pre-mixed tamarind margarita mix which was fantastic! I’ve always loved the flavor of tamarind, but had never tried it in a margarita. I’ve been unable to find it at home, but will be buying some tamarind concentrate in the near future to try and recreate the magic.
Tamarind margaritas! Just required a quick trip to the store…
Just as good tequila is important, good coffee holds equal status. (In my world, anyway.) There are several coffee shops in the Old Town area, but being able to make a great cup of coffee first thing in the morning is an absolute requirement. Sitting out on the deck, watching the ocean, contemplating life… what a way to start the day. Vallarta Factory not only has delicious food, but they carry a great selection of ground and whole bean coffee, sourced from the local mountains. And if that weren’t enough, the adjacent chocolate shop also carries one of the most delicious creations known to the planet: Caramel-coated, roasted cacao beans. I became hooked on them after my last trip and have been dreaming about them ever since. Suffice to say, I brought back SEVERAL bags…
Many delicious chocolates to enjoy!
So close to my dream…
Cigars aren’t my thing, but they roll them right in the store!
The holy grail. Caramel coated roasted cacao beans… One of the most delicious things EVER created.
The Farmacia Guadalajara in the Old Town is a large drug store and has everything you need in the way of snacks, sundries and more. I’m still excited about my Frida Kahlo Aqua Net score from last year’s trip…
Keeping a bag of ice in the freezer is important for so many hot-weather reasons. OXXO mini-marts are virtually everywhere in Puerto Vallarta and it’s likely one will be located close to wherever you’re staying. Stop by for bagged ice, sodas, chips, ice cream bars and more!
Pedicures are good for what ails the tired, airport-dashing feet and a fine addition to any restful vacation. The staff at the Wow! Facial Bar, just up from our condo, was very accommodating and gave me an excellent pedicure. (They had a very interesting facial masque treatment I might try next time…) I did have to return the next day for a touch-up, buy they very graciously took care of everything. They didn’t even want me to pay for the touch-up!
If you were stuck with someone reclining their seat in front of you for the entire flight, work out your stress at Spa Holistic. Located directly on the beach/Malecon, their staff is excellent and the prices were amazing. You could also go the cheaper route and hit up the roaming foot massage troop working the beach, but an actual spa massage seemed like a better idea to me…
A pretty amazing view from the rooftop
After stocking up on essentials and enjoying a couple of very tasty tamarind margaritas on the deck, it was time to think about dinner. Located downstairs in our condo and directly on the beach was the famous La Palapa restaurant and bar. Built in 1957 and the first restaurant on the beach, La Palapa is still owned by the same family and remains an icon in the Romantic Zone. If you’re looking for fancier dining, directly on the beach, check out the scene at La Palapa. They offer breakfast, lunch and dinner in their dining room or directly on the beach in their private seating area. They also host weddings and events and we watched them set up at least two beach weddings during our stay. Granted, there were only a few nights with sunsets, but the weather cooperated during the ceremonies and no one was rained out. Dreamy.
Dinner service at the private La Palapa beach area
One of the beach weddings we saw during our visit
They had to put up the umbrellas for this one…
Since we weren’t feeling terribly fancy after our long travel day and running of errands, we decided to keep it casual that first night. (And most nights thereafter) Since it was Restaurant Week during our visit, we’d put together a list of potential eateries to investigate. (Note: Restaurant week is always longer than a week and this year ran from May 15th thru June 10th) Many cities feature restaurant weeks, but if you haven’t had the opportunity to participate, they’re a great way to enjoy pricier restaurants for more a reasonable cost. They usually feature a few prix fixe meals which offer a good overview of their full menu. On the list was Joe Jack’s Fish Shack, located a few blocks from our condo. Their menu looked tasty and it was a short walk for weary travelers… Perfect combo! The even bigger bonus was just how tasty the menu was. Everything we tried was delicious. The passion fruit margaritas were amazing and I would eat the Shrimp and Avocado Tostadas Louie every day of my life. Every day! We definitely returned for more during our stay…
The well-appointed bar at Joe Jack’s
A city view from the open-terrace upstairs seating area
Chile dusted veggies – Delicious!
One of the most delicious drinks I’ve ever had – The passion fruit margarita!
Guacamole… Sigh…
Shrimp & Avocado Shrimp Louie FOR LIFE!
Mmmm… Fish tacos…
‘Lots of cool vintage Mexican movie posters at Joe Jack’s
Lovely dining at Joe Jack’s
Delicious cod fritters
There are so many stellar restaurants to try in Puerto Vallarta. The list is impressive and you’d need a very long stay to make your way through it, but it sure would be a delicious journey. We didn’t visit nearly as many spots as I’d hoped, but we made a noble effort. I guess the eyes of vacation planning are sometimes bigger than the stomach of time…
Here’s a short list of the places we visited and hoped to visit on this adventure. I suppose the good thing about not hitting every spot is having something to look forward to on the next trip! Because there will definitely be another trip…
We visited renowned chef, Thierry Blouet’s Café des Artistes during our stay and it was spectacular. The atmosphere and service were excellent – minus a small banana allergy mix-up – and the food was truly delicious. Their famous Cream of Prawn and Pumpkin soup (ladled from a carved out pumpkin) was fantastic and the ‘Catch of the Day’ was wonderful. (And I am kicking myself for not writing down the fish. It was delicate, white, flaky… Sigh…) And the desserts – Yowsa!
At least one of us wasn’t allergic to bananas…
Delicious lavender macrons
A deconstructed fig and berry cheesecake. WOW!
This fish was amazing! WHY didn’t I write it down??
Their famous cream of pumpkin and prawn soup. Delicious!
Amuse bouche!
Classy dining at Cafe des Artistes
Directly next door to La Palapa, you’ll find Si Senor Beach. Quite handy to have great dining options just downstairs. The regular menu was somewhat pricey, but we opted for the Restaurant Week selections and weren’t disappointed. Interestingly, the margaritas we ordered ending up being the same price as our entire meal! (Pro tip: Don’t worry about getting the fancy tequila unless you’re going to sip it. Mid-shelf tequila for margaritas is absolutely acceptable.)
This tres leches cake was fantastic!
A very expensive, but very tasty margarita…
Delicious tortilla soup with fresh chicharrones
A very delicious shrimp dish
Looking out towards the pier from Si Senor’s dining room
We had a very earnest guest…
Situated on the Cuale River and featuring regular Jazz shows, Le Bistro has been high on my list on both visits – and it remains! They serve breakfast, lunch and dinner and feature fresh seafood along with pasta and pizza on their dinner menu.
Lovely riverside dining at Le Bistro Cafe
Appropriately perched on a cliff overlooking the ocean,Le Kliff features an amazing menu and is one of Puerto Vallarta’s most exclusive dining locales. While we didn’t get to visit on this excursion, my friend has dined there on past visits and speaks very highly of the experience.
Di Vino Dante features local cuisine with Mexican wine pairings. Born and raised in Puerto Vallarta, the owner was studying Fine Art in Vancouver B.C. when she also began studying wine. She returned home to showcase her knowledge and has been featuring Mexican and Latin American wines and cuisine at her intimate wine bar in the Old Town.
Nicksan features the very cool fusion of Mexican and Japanese cuisine. Sashimi tostadas? They’ve got ‘em! Chiles stuffed with spicy crab and sesame sauce? Bring it on!!
Renowned local chef, Joel Ornelas, whose resume includes apprenticeships at Café des Artistes and Le Bistro as well as several well-reviewed European restaurants, puts his own touch on the classics at Tintoque. Their “Creative Menu” features fresh seafood and local produce and changes daily. Located at Vallarta Marina, near the Hotel Zone.
Tucked in along a side street near the Malecon, Florios specializes in a tasty blend of Italian and Argentinian inspired cuisines. Pasta and meat – together forever!
Italian and Argentinian dining at Florios near the Malecon
La Bodeguita del Medio was very crowded when we stopped by, but we stood outside and listened to the live Cuban music and I promised myself to try again next time. The Puerto Vallarta location is an offshoot of the same club Hemingway spent so much time at in Havana. (Which is still there!) Located at the heart of the Malecon.
Barcelona Tapas was on our list as my friend had visited before and raved about it. I love a good tapas. Who doesn’t?? We didn’t make it there together, but I will definitely be stopping in on my next visit.
Jorge’s Hideaway Shrimp Shack is as advertised, most definitely “hidden.” Tucked back into an Old Town neighborhood, you could easily mistake it for a small home. (Which it used to be!) My friend was on a quest for the best coconut shrimp and Jorge’s did not disappoint. Everything we had was fresh and delicious and I’ll definitely return on my next visit.
Delicious coconut shrimp
A homey setting at Jorge’s
Sometimes you just need an ice cold cerveza…
This shrimp dish was SO fresh and tasty!
We were feeling peckish after a hot day of walking around and arrived a little early for dinner hours at The Swedes Bar & Bistro. They were very accommodating, however, and we ended up with the whole place to ourselves for dinner! Featuring local ingredients prepared with a European flare, everything we tried was delicious. The lobster bisque was a standout highlight for me. YUM!
The most delicious lobster bisque
Chicken breast stuffed with provolone, artichoke and sun-dried tomato – with mushroom risotto and a tarragon cream sauce. Yum!
Tucked into a tiny spot in the Old Town, Tacos Revolucion serves delicious tacos of all varieties and absolutely delicious tortas. They also have “Volcanoes” and “Cakes” – both savory dishes – which I will absolutely be trying on my next visit. I also didn’t get to try the “Meat in Your Juice,” which is described as Beef cooked in its juice with bacon, green sauce, scallion, beans from the pot and handmade tortillas. Guadalajara style. WHAT??? #Heavenly
I was pretty much full after the guacamole…
And just a few more places that will remain on my list until next visit:
El Arrayan – Traditional and contemporary Mexican cuisine in the heart of the Malecon scene.
El Dorado – Located directly on the beach in the Old Town/Romantic Zone area, featuring modern Mexican cuisine.
Located at the Grand Miramar resort with a striking, panoramic view of the city, Eugeniafeatures local seafood and produce in an upscale presentation.
Perched high in the hills above the Old Town, Hacienda San Angel Gourmet features elevated Mexican cuisine and an amazing view. It is also high on my list to actually stay in one of the dreamy suites at Hacienda San Angel, once owned by Richard Burton. (Note: Due to kitchen maintenance, there is no dinner service for August and September, 2019)
Meridia Grill features contemporary Mexican cuisine in the heart of traditional Old Town. Duck tacos!
I attempted to visit the trendy La Romantica Churros & Café Bar a couple of times during my visit. It was right around the corner from the condo and featured delicious churros, Mexican hot chocolate and coffee. What more could a girl need? Sadly, on the first attempt, they weren’t opening for another hour and on the second try, they were closed for a two-week vacation! Alas, it just wasn’t in the cards and I’ll have to hit them up next time. If I have to camp out in front, I will…
Sometimes you just need to get fancy…
And not to be forgotten, here are a few favorites from my last Puerto Vallarta visit:
Featuring family recipes, El Mole de Jovita is a must-stop if you’re looking for the rich, addictive flavors of authentic mole. My favorites were the Mole Jovita, pumpkin and green moles. I’ll be back!
Pancho’s Takos is amazing. Serving slow-roasted meats, prepared on flame-licked spits, Pancho’s is a must for any taco lover. And don’t forget to add their spectacular sauces and accompaniments to your meal. (Pro tip: Get there early. The line at Pancho’s gets crazy long in the evening!)
For the record, I still can’t believe I didn’t make it to Mariscos Cisneros on this trip. This place is delicious and I can’t count the number of times I’ve daydreamed of their fish tacos and deep-fried, cheese-stuffed jalapenos. Whhhyyyyy???
In keeping with one of my major vacation objectives, alarm clocks had NO place in my morning and getting up when I felt like getting up was paramount. Enjoying coffee on the deck, watching the day come alive at the Pier at Los Muertos and knowing I had many more days of this was a completely sublime feeling. Most of the mornings during our stay were overcast, but as I make my home in Seattle, what’s a little cloud cover? Good coffee and knowing I have no commitments for the day is more than enough to make me shout a very happy GOOD MORNING to the world. To make things even more enjoyable, my wackylovely friend decided she didn’t want the room with the amazing ocean view – complete with the soothing sound of waves. I guess the waves don’t lull everyone to sleep like they do me… I’ll take that ocean view room – no problem! Add in that I was able to eventually work out the forgotten PIN situation and my vacation mode officially set in. (Granted, it required a few long phone calls to my bank and a bit of logistical finagling, but whatever – cold hard cash was mine to spend! And a hearty thanks to my travel buddy for humoring the situation and helping out…)
Now that I had my PIN sorted out, I could buy that yacht…
I don’t often have the chance to enjoy a leisurely breakfast, but vacation is the perfect time to live out such fantasies. There are so many fabulous breakfast and brunch spots in Puerto Vallarta, it was hard to decide where to start the day. It’s a rough job, but someone’s gotta do it. You’re welcome. A few of the delicious early morning (more like noonish) spots we hit up:
The aforementioned Vallarta Factory was our first stop on the vacation breakfast train. I was excited to return and had vowed to try something new on this visit, but I failed. The menu is great, but the Poblano omelet I had on the last trip was loudly calling my name – and I listened. SO good!
Mmmm… Mimosas…
I got this poblano omelet last time – and I will likely get it next time! SO delicious.
The Pancake House is pretty spectacular and they do indeed serve delicious pancakes and French toast. That said, their Chilaquiles with Verde sauce was out of this world! We came back a couple times during our stay.
The wilds of the Pancake House
Delicious breakfast starters
They’ve got waffles, too!
Eggs Benedict at the Pancake House
Amazing chilaquiles in the dappled sunlight of the Pancake House
Barra Light offers delicious breakfast and lunch dishes featuring organic and locally sourced ingredients – and some pretty great cappuccinos. As they were located just around the corner from our condo, we stopped in quite a few times for both breakfast and lunch.
I *needed* this delicious cappuccino…
I also needed this delicious salmon lox bagel sandwich.. with jalapenos and chipotle creme. NEEDED IT.
Salud Superfood is a standout in the area for organic and vegetarian dishes. We visited on our last trip and the food was excellent. I will be back on my next visit as well!
The Green Eggs and Bacon sandwich is delicious!
Words of wisdom on the walls of Salud Superfood…
Café San Angel was also a feature of my last visit, but as their migas were so delicious, there was no way I was missing a repeat engagement. They didn’t fail to impress and maybe next time I’ll branch out and try something new. Maybe.
Delicious iced coffee. Yes, please!
The room for the ladies….
Migas at last!!
Located a block off the Malecon, the Coexist Bistro was the last stop on our vacation breakfast train and positively delicious – And air-conditioned! Set on the ground floor of the very cool Hotel Rio, the dishes were imaginative and well-prepared. I’ll definitely be hitting them up on my next visit. Also, did I mention they have air-conditioning?? #Luxurious
Modern dining with a pool
This egg dish was sweet and savory all at once and very tasty!
Mimosas and daisies = Lovely!
On my last visit, I was so impressed and inspired by the amazing artwork and music all around the city and vowed to more deeply experience the scene during this stay. Every day, after fortifying ourselves with a delicious breakfast, we wandered around, taking it all in, experiencing the vibrancy of the city. Everywhere we looked were beautifully handcrafted arts and crafts and everywhere we listened, strains of live music. It was a feast for the eyes, ears and soul, to be sure. I can’t imagine the creative spirit ever at a loss for inspiration in this city.
The iconic seahorse statue at the end of the beach
That’s quite a chair! Amazing art up and down the Malecon.
Puerto Vallarta loves their seahorses
There are beautiful murals all around town
Shhhhhh – they can hear you!
Beautiful displays of culture and tradition on the Malecon
Saturday evening concert in the public square
Beautiful mosaics around town
The list of artistic possibilities in Puerto Vallarta is expansive and full of variety. What I’ve experienced thus far is just a small cross-section of what can be found. I look forward to continuing my artistic adventures on future trips. In the meantime, a few of the spots we were able to enjoy on this visit:
My friend introduced me to Enrique on our last visit and I was happy to again visit him at the shop he manages, Muy Guapo. Located in the Old Town, Muy Guapo features unique antiques and quirky, funky art and jewelry from around Mexico. Enrique is also a fantastic artist and occasionally has some of his own work at the shop.
Enrique’s sister, Marisa, is also an artist and regularly displays her paintings at the Cuale Island Flea Market. She features lovely scenes of local life and I was happy to return home with a couple of her miniatures featuring nearby Yelapa. (Marisa’s stall is located in the shade of the Insurgentes Street Bridge pedestrian underpass) Walking along the peaceful Cuale River and winding in and out of the artist stalls and banyan trees is an excellent way to spend the afternoon.
Scenes from Yelapa
Marisa’s artwork in the Cuale Island Flea Market
The artist herself! (Photo credit: P. Pudinski)
My friend was trying to track down a local marionette artist while we were in town, but was sadly unsuccessful. We were, however, able to successfully add to our glassware collections with a stop at Mundo de Cristal in the Old Town. They only had a few pieces left of the pattern I’d brought back on my last trip, but I snatched them up and my collection grows. I can now serve even more tamarind margaritas at my next party!
You can’t bring back glasses without something to put in them! I’m not a monster.
We also returned to spectacular tile and ceramics shop, Mundo de Azulejosin the Old Town. My friend wanted to custom order an address plaque for her home. Since her home is blue, she decided on “La Casa Azul” with lettering appropriately in blue. Unfortunately, after they fired the plaque, the paint looked green. Something on the list for her next visit to Puerto Vallarta, I guess…
On my last visit, I brought back a beautiful hand-blown glass miniature of my bass guitar. On this visit, we again hit up Carlos Rosas with a few more requests. Additionally, due to a freak dusting accident, the neck of my bass broke! (Broken bass necks are actually a bit of a personal curse. Two actual bass necks and now a glass one… Eeesh.) Through our email communications and pictures being sent, Carlos came up with amazing renditions of both mine and my friend’s dogs as well as a new rendition of my bass and the most spectacular Hammond organ piece for my friend, Joe’s birthday. And he very kindly fixed my broken bass, which I’d brought along just in case it was repairable… Now I have a backup! Carlos is no longer located in the Old Town and now sets up shop on Wednesdays near the cruise ship harbor with many of the local artists. (Our friend, Marisa included.) Definitely make the effort to find his booth!
Finley the Beagle, Joe’s Hammond Organ and my Bass – Mi familia!
The real deal and the replica – can’t even tell them apart!
On my last visit, I found a couple of musical notes created in the Huichol tradition. I love them and was hoping to find a couple more, but none of the shops I investigated had them. Luckily, my friend happened upon Colores Magicos in her own shopping excursions and got their email for me. Through a series of emails and a visit to the shop, they graciously arranged for a local artist to make me a couple of notes during my stay. Cool!! I left it up to the artist to come up with the designs and I picked them up on my last day in town. (After the artist raced into town to get them to me before I left!) I love them! If you stop by, ask for Carlos or Olga and tell them the lady with the musical notes sent you – they’re awesome!
Two new notes to add to my song!
I have a weakness for chunky rings and found the most beautiful larimar ring at the Cassandra Shaw gallery in the Old Town. She is also a painter and animal lover and features many of her paintings in the shop. I love the llama!
I love this guy!
My beautiful new ring from Cassandra Shaw
As my friends are aware (especially those who’ve helped me pack to move), I have a nerdy weakness for glassware, mugs, teacups, shot glasses, etc. If you can drink out of it, I probably have one. On a related note, I’m particularly fond of the You Are Here and Been There series from Starbucks. I have several from around the world and now I have one from Puerto Vallarta. Hooray!
My morning joe with scenes from PV!
There is much music to be found around the city. Live music in restaurants and theatres, dance music in the Malecon and Old Town night clubs and scores of roaming musicians around town and on the Malecon. Stop and listen, go inside and enjoy a set – Take in all the amazing sounds the city has to offer. And keep an eye out for seasoned bassists roaming the beach, waiting to play you a tune…
Bass parking only! This is by far one of my favorite shots ever…
I found the owner! Major props to this guy for schlepping that bass around the beach in long sleeves and pants. That’s one hot gig!
You never know what you’re going to find or what amazing piece of art will call to you as you wander the cobblestone streets and artist stalls along the Cuale. Allow plenty of time to investigate the shops and talk to the artists – and be sure to stay hydrated. There’s nothing wrong with soaking in the sun for a couple hours and returning to the comfort of an air-conditioned hotel room to cool off and get rejuvenated. Of course, it’s also a good idea to throw in a couple of margaritas on the deck and maybe a bit of homemade guacamole, pico de gallo and chips… That’s just good sense. And then resume your meandering, refueled and ready to explore!
So many amazing colors in Puerto Vallarta
Not your average shop decor
The banyan trees on Cuale River Island are truly amazing
If these trees could talk… And it seems like they should be able to!
The foot bridge on Cuale Island
Sometimes you just can’t be bothered to take the stairs…
When not wandering aimlessly around town, there are many places to add to your sightseeing list. Stick around Puerto Vallarta proper or hop on a tour bus or water taxi to the outlying areas of the city. There are so many amazing places to see and things to do. A mere week or so isn’t nearly enough, but you’ll have an excellent excuse to come back soon. Perhaps the following year! Some of my favorite places to visit so far:
Last visit, we took a water taxi from the Pier at Los Muertos to visit the neighboring village of Yelapa. We’d planned on making another trip, but as the weather was sometimes a bit grey and misty, we decided against a choppy boat ride. I fell in love with Yelapa and would love to return for a stay in the sleepy coastal burb, but will have to wait until next time. The water taxis also stop at other villages along the way and I plan to investigate those on my next journey as well.
All aboard for Yelapa!
These guys are getting a free ride…
A few of the fishing boats bobbing in the water next to the pier
An integral part of the beach scene for tourists, fishermen and pelicans alike!
On the way to Yelapa, look out for the rocky arches at Los Arcos Marine Park. I’d love to do some snorkeling in the area and get closer to the arches. Next time!
If you’d like to admire the beautiful architecture of Puerto Vallarta’s local parishes, two beautiful examples to seek out while walking around the Malecon are the Parish of Our Lady of Guadalupeand a little further down, the Church of Our Lady of the Refuge. Both hold regular services and are open to visit during the day.
Rising above the Malecon, Our Lady of Guadalupe
The sun breaking through on a beautiful afternoon
Inside the parish
A little further down the Malecon is Our Lady of the Refuge
Along the way to the Saturday Market…
While wandering around the banyan lined banks of the Cuale, we happened upon the Cuale Cultural Center. A beautiful group of buildings with lovely landscaping and scenery, it serves as a center for all manner of Arts workshops and hosts showings and performances. There was nothing going on the day we visited, but I look forward to checking out the scene on future visits. (Note: When we visited the area, it looked like they were still in operation, but their website doesn’t look current. I hope they’re still holding events…)
Tribute to Night of the Iguana on Cuale Island
Mural on Cuale Island
Tribute to director John Huston on Cuale Island
Center for the performing arts on Cuale Island
Homes perched above Cuale Island
Looking out on Puerto Vallarta from La Iguana Bridge
Sculpture found on Cuale Island
The steps of La Iguana Bridge on Cuale Island
Heading down to Cuale Island from the Malecon
The banyans of Cuale Island
There are many outdoor markets selling a variety of food and goods running throughout the year and all around town. As we did last year, one of the first places we hit up was the Mercado Emiliano Zapata produce stand were we bought fresh vegetables, dried hibiscus flowers, hot sauces and more. (Pro tip: Wash all of the produce off as soon as you bring it back to wherever you’re staying. If you don’t, you’re likely to wake up to an army of tiny gnats marching around your counter-tops. Very common, but easily addressed by a thorough washing.)
Tamarind margaritas with fresh pico and guacamole. Made by hand with the ingredients we picked up at the market.
And excellent place to stock up on veggies and more!
Well, I had to get them… They made me laugh every day…
All this for just under $10!!
There are a couple other outdoor markets we attempted to visit, but were sad to learn were closed for the season. The Olas Atlas Farmers Market, also known as the Old Farmers Market is open on Saturdays from November through April and is very worth getting up early to investigate. (9:30am to 2pm)
Since we were unable to visit the Saturday market in the Old Town, we decide to walk over to the Saturday Market. Maybe walking on a sweltering hot day wasn’t the greatest of plans as it ended up being closer to the Hotel Zone and what felt like 327 miles away. At least. That said, it was a very interesting walk through the local neighborhoods and we ended up getting to experience a very local market scene. Clothing, both new and used, tools, produce, baked goods, little taco stands – you name it, it was at the market. However, as interesting as it was to walk through the neighborhoods, it was just as interesting to take an air-conditioned cab ride back to the Old Town. But for the record, I got in A LOT of steps that day on the ol’ Fitbit – and probably sweated out a few pounds on top of it. SCORE!
A true local market – and a long walk from the Old Town!
One of the things we’d been planning on checking out were the local foodie tours and maybe a tequila tour or two. However, since we were both feeling pretty exhausted from all that wandering around town and walking on the beaches… and making deck margaritas… it never really worked out. Oops. That said, I am confident I’ll be returning soon and it gives me more foodie adventures to look forward to in the future. Some of the tours that intrigued me:
Vallarta Eats offers several tours that piqued my interest. Led by local food enthusiasts, each tour lasts a few hours and showcases the best of Puerto Vallarta cuisine. I was most interested in the Untouristed, Tasting Vallarta and Craft Brew & Bites A couple of friends we made on last year’s trip went on the Signature Taco Tour and raved about it. Next time, Puerto Vallarta… Next time.
As previously discussed, good tequila is important. On my last visit, I did the Eden Canopy zip line tour which included a visit to the Tequila Tasting Room and it was amazing. Other than our multiple trips to procure more tequila in town, we didn’t get to venture out to the local farms and tasting rooms like I’d hoped. On my next visit, I plan on taking the Tequila Tasting tour with Puerto Vallarta Tours. Equally intriguing are the Vallarta Tequila Tastings and Rancho Verano Distileria de Tequila tours. So much tequila, so little time…
Deck margs for the sunset…
We only got a couple of these, but this one was spectacular…
There is no one way to visit or enjoy Puerto Vallarta. Lounge on the beach every day and make homemade guacamole and pico de gallo to enjoy with scratch margaritas on your deck. Eat at all the amazing restaurants and imbibe on elaborate craft cocktails. Hit up the night clubs and late-night Malecon scene and dance into the night. Take a water taxi to the tiny inlets outside of the city and enjoy a burro ride around the village. Get daring and go diving – either in the sea or sky! (Well, parasailing anyway…) Write, dream, contemplate the world and what you can do to make it better… There are so many amazing adventures to be experienced in this beautiful city.
Catch your own fish…
Take to the sky!
Whenever I think of Puerto Vallarta, I recall the spectacular sunsets, the leisurely walks on the beach, the charm of watching the nightly dinner service under the lantern-lit beach umbrellas and the absolute come-as-you-are ease of the Old Town. (Unless it’s Café Des Artistes or one of the upscale hotels, where I recommend kicking it up a fancy notch…) In the years to come, I will always keep a bit of Puerto Vallarta warmth and sunshine tucked away to pull out on those grey Seattle days. This city is now a part of my soul and I hope to experience many more beautiful moments within its borders, whether experienced a year from now or ten.
In closing, if you’re thinking of visiting Mexico, I highly recommend checking out this absolutely lovely city. It’s full of beauty, the locals are welcoming, the Arts scene is rich and vibrant – and there are an unbelievable bounty of tastes, sounds and experiences to sample. It’s a paradise on so many levels! Hey, and no one got pooped on by a Magnificent Frigatebird this time, so that was an extra vacation win!
Until next time – Eat the state!
A room with QUITE a view…
A beautiful night…
Almost down…
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I Ate the State SPECIAL EDITION: Puerto Vallarta – The Return! Click HERE to check out the Spotify playlist.
Escape (The Pina Colada Song) – Rupert Holmes (from Partners in Crime)
Steal Away – Robbie Dupree (from Robbie Dupree)
Tequila Sunrise – Eagles (from Desperado)
Batida Diferente – Herbie Mann (from Latin Forever)
A Horse with No Name – America (from America)
Do It Again – Steely Dan (from Can’t Buy A Thrill)
Coconut – Harry Nilsson (from Nilsson Schmilsson)
Mambo Sangria – Caj Tjader (from Too Late Now)
Sicily – Chick Corea (from Friends)
Biggest Part of Me – Ambrosia (from One Eighty)
The Boys of Summer – Don Henley (from Building the Perfect Beast)
Hold the Line – Toto (from Toto)
Love Will Find A Way – Pablo Cruise (from Worlds Away)
Danza de Gardenias – Natalia Lafourcade (from Danza de Gardenias)
Dreamers – Judy Collins (from Dreamers)
Águas de Março – Antônio Carlos Jobim (from Antônio Carlos Jobim: Finest Hour)
Come Sail Away – Styx (from The Grand Illusion)
Still the One – Orleans (from Waking and Dreaming)
Sailing – Christopher Cross (from Christopher Cross)
Corcovado – Quiet Nights of Quiet Stars – Stan Getz, João Gilberto (from Getz/Gilberto)
Drift Away – Dobie Gray (from Dobie Gray – His Very Best)
Babylon Sisters – Steely Dan (from Gaucho)
Samba De Orfeu – Cal Tjader (from Soul Sauce)
Ride Like the Wind – Christopher Cross (from Christopher Cross)
Reelin’ in the Years – Steely Dan (from Can’t Buy A Thrill)
Alllllllllrighty! We’re back with more Snohomish County action!
If you haven’t checked out Part I – The Mountain Side, give it a readHERE.
*A quick note if you’re reading this on 5/11/19 and are in or around the Mukilteo area:
May 11th is Opening Day of flying season at Kilo-7 and the Historic Flight exhibit. (Fully restored/operational planes from 1927 – 1957.) Most importantly, you’ll get to bid bon voyage to their Douglas C-47B/DC-3 as it departs at 3pm for Normandy, France to participate in the 75th anniversary of D-Day. WOW!!
And now back to regularly scheduled programming…
For the second part of my excursion, I visited the “sea side” area of Snohomish County. This part of the county is easily accessible from many points off I-5 as well as many excellent backroads; a collection of which are referred to as the “The Seaside Loop.” For this portion of my adventure, I decided to head north via I-5 and start my loop tour in the small town of Stanwood.
As Stanwood is on the way to Camano Island, it can sometimes be taken for granted as a thoroughfare to the Salish Sea, also commonly known as the Puget Sound. (Note: Camano Island is part of Island County, an area of which I’ll be soon covering!) While Stanwood is indeed the gateway to Camano Island – and Camano Island is a beautiful place to visit – don’t count out Stanwood! There are many reasons to spend a bit of time wandering around the area.
A mix of Native American heritage, Scandinavian traditions from mid-1800s settlers and a good bit of easy-going, coastal charm, Stanwood is a delicious combination of flavors. Initially coined “Centerville” in 1866, it became Stanwood in 1877 after the maiden name of the postmaster’s wife. It was well-situated as a trading post with its position at the mouth of theStillaguamish River, where it flows into Port Susan and the Skagit Bay and it remains a pivotal location today. In 2009, Stanwood gained an Amtrak train stop in the downtown area, further cementing its ongoing relevance and accessibility.
If you’d like to learn more about the history of Stanwood, check out the D.O. Pearson House Museum in the downtown area. Home to Stanwood’s first mayor and built in 1890, it’s a beautiful Victorian “period house museum” and remains quite grand to this day. (On the National Register of Historic Places) Who doesn’t love a good museum??
For further adventure through the historic downtown center of Stanwood, consider adding these places to your list:
Get your glogg on at the Uff Da Shoppe located in the quirky Viking Village, just off the main route through town, SR-532. Stock up on Scandinavian foods, housewares, collectibles, GNOMES, holiday goodies and MORE! (Dad – they have gnomes!)
They’ve got gnomes!
Just a block behind Viking Village, you’ll come to the first section of old-town Stanwood. The street is lined with several shops and restaurants to check out. One of my favorite stops was Polska Kuchnia, a delicious Polish restaurant featuring all the Polish hits. I tried the pierogis, stuffed cabbage and farmer’s cheese cheesecake – all topped off with a Warka blackcurrant radler. Suffice to say, I was stuffed. (Like the cabbage – ba-doom-ching!) But that doesn’t mean I didn’t also make room for some delicious cupcakes from Stanwood Cupcakes, just down the street. YUM!! (Okay, maybe I waited to eat them later in the day. Maybe.) Note: Many of the shops are closed on Sundays.
Just a couple blocks up, you’ll find the Stanwood Farmers Market. Stock up on fresh produce and other tasty treats – enjoy the local bounty! (June 6 – Oct 11, Fridays – 2p – 6p)
Lovely dining room at Polska Kuchnia
Pierogi, stuffed cabbage and a black currant radler. YUM!
And a cupcake to top it all off…
Downtown Stanwood
Heading further west on SR-532, you’ll pass by the more recent additions to Stanwood – the newer chain restaurants, grocery stores and assorted retail shops. Stanwood has all the modern conveniences, but don’t miss out on the next section of old-town Stanwood, about a mile west on SR-532. An entire day of exploring could very easily take place within a couple square blocks…
Located about a block off SR-532, the Stanwood Hotel & Saloon (c. late 1890s) is a cool spot to grab a meal – or an overnight stay in their haunted They feature pub-style food, live music on weekends, period-decor rooms and it’s in walking distance to the great old building of Stanwood – including the D.O. Pearson House Museum. And it’s haunted!
If you’re looking for classic diner fare in a classic diner setting, head to the Stanwood Café – about a block away from The Stanwood Hotel & Saloon.
Crow Island Farms offers rustic, farm-to-table dinners in old-town Stanwood – Just across from the Stanwood Hotel & Saloon and down from the D.O. Pearson House Museum.
Should shopping be on your list, there’s a cute antique shop, Brick Road Antiques (Closed on Sundays) near the Stanwood Café as well as the urban-funky, Urban Trends. They have an online store, too!
Great old Stanwood Hotel and Saloon. It’s haunted!
Classic diner eats at the Stanwood Cafe
Great storefronts in old Stanwood
Funky shop in old Standwood
The Antique Mall and the old First National Bank building
There’s something to be said for getting outside and enjoying the fresh air and Stanwood has no shortage of opportunities. The Stanwood Camano Fair is the state’s largest community fair and takes place the first weekend of August. (8/2 – 8/4) Also in summer, the city hosts free movies in the park at Church Creek Park and concerts in the downtown area – as well as the Stanwood Camano Summer Arts Jam, July 12-14. (Watch the city Events page for more information and official dates.)
Since I wasn’t traveling onto Camano, I turned off SR-532 onto the scenic Pioneer Highway and headed towards the little town of Silvana. The Pioneer Highway is a great trip in and of itself if you’re into beautiful farmland, winding curves, old barns – that kind of thing. (Gross!) To drive the entire stretch, enter via Exit 208 off I-5 or at Exit 221 to Conway, further north in Skagit County. It’s definitely one of Washington’s more wonderful backroads – and a great pick for motorcyclists.
Not a lot of traffic on the backroads…
Backroads are the best!
Great farms off of Pioneer Highway
Beautiful history and scenery on the backroads
Directly off the lovely Pioneer Highway lies the equally lovely and very tiny town of Silvana. Packed into its small bit of township are several worthwhile stops to make. You could in fact head home with the ingredients for a pretty amazing farm-to-table meal from just a quick Silvana visit. Some of the places to hit up:
Stop by Willow & Jims Country Café for the classic, country diner scene. It seemed like the entire town of Silvana was there when I visited. Popular place! Serving breakfast and lunch from 7a – 3pm. (Closed Monday/Tuesday)
A beautiful morning for a country breakfast
Pies!
They’ve modernized their kitchen a bit…
Great country breakfast – dig the mug!
There are many treasures to be found at the Silvana Five & Dime Thrift Store. Things I’m pretty sure I NEED. (Closed Sunday/Monday)
There’s stuff in there I NEED!
Snohomish County is well known for its strawberries. That said, they’re also growing some pretty amazing blueberries, too! Check out Hazel Blue Acres for U-pick blueberries – and hazelnuts! (Note: Check their hours before you go as they have special hours during the off-season.)
Head to Silvana Meats for all the meats! Locally sourced meats, fresh sausages, ham, Landjäger, jerky, BACON, pickled herring – you name it, they’ve got it! They’ll also process your wild game, duck, goose and fish!
Silvana Meats for the win!
So welcoming!
Just a small portion of the goods…
Heading out of Silvana proper, all one block of it, you’ll come to the Old Silvana Creamery, located on Pioneer Highway East. I will admit to not being a super huge milk fan, but they have me intrigued. They specialize in raw milk from grass-fed Jersey and Guernsey cows and people rave about it. (As opposed to the common Holstein cow.) Very interesting…
Great old grain building in Silvana
I’m channeling Footloose – Anyone wanna help me throw a dance??
This one’s for you, Mallen!
After exploring Silvana and ooing and awing over the truly gorgeous countryside, I headed back towards I-5, down south to Exit 206 and west towards the North Lakewood area. I was specifically heading towards Lake Goodwin and towards the coastal Marine Drive, but was pleasantly distracted along the way by more beautiful scenery, idyllic old barns and picturesque farm scenes. The small town of North Lakewood is located along SR-531 and offers the usual modern conveniences, but I was most drawn to the scenery past the city hub as I drove closer towards Port Susan.
My first stop was at Lake Goodwin Community Park for some beautiful lake views and then nearby Lake Goodwin Resort to check out their cabins, RV park, boating and rental opportunities. Between the two properties, it’s possible to spend a very enjoyable few days – or more – in the area, soaking up the lake vibes, boating, swimming, water skiing, jet skiing and MORE! There is some serious fun-in-the-sun to be had in the Lake Goodwin area.
I wish I was water skiing right now…
So serene…
Protected native growth area next to Lake Goodwin – check out the trail!
Looking out on Lake Goodwin on a sunny morning
If you’re up for a meal and a good cocktail while you’re in the area, check out The Paddle Club for breakfast, lunch or dinner. It’s located directly along SR-531/Lakewood Road and is a good place to relax after a sunny visit to Lake Goodwin. Sure, the area is ripe with opportunities for picnics on the lake, but just know there’s a sit-down, cocktail-friendly option right across the road…
Stop in for breakfast, lunch or dinner!
A little further up Lakewood Road, you’ll come to the junction of 92nd Avenue NW. Take a left and make a quick jog onto 176th Street NW and you’ll hook up with Marine Drive. It’s possible to take this coastal-hugging road from Stanwood all the way to Marysville, but there are a few points to sync up to it from other areas along the way. It’s a gorgeous, winding drive and it’s worth a trip alone to make. And just like nearby Pioneer Highway, it would be exceptionally nice on a motorcycle…
Not too far south on Marine Drive, you’ll come to the beautiful Kayak Point County Parkand their awesome Yurt Village. (They have a regular, drive-in campsite section, too!) Stay in a cool yurt, hike down to the beach looking out over Port Susan, take in a spectacular sunset, get in some fishing or crabbing and maybe bust out some windsurfing – Come on – who doesn’t want in on this?? I know I do. Pretty much all day, every day… Sign me up.
Yurt Village!
Fishing off the pier…
Trail to the beach
Ugh. The trail back up from the beach.
I could’ve sat there all day…
A gorgeous morning at Kayak Point
Since I was doing the “Seaside Loop,” I continued south down Marine Drive to where it meets up with I-5 in the Marysville area. It’s a beautiful, tree-lined drive with views of the water peeking through here and there, as well as gorgeous stretches of pastures and farm land as you get closer to the I-5 corridor. Between Marine Drive and the Pioneer Highway, it’s the perfect lazy weekend drive…
As you drive along Marine Drive, you’ll enter the lands of the Tulalip Reservation. The Tulalip Tribes are comprised of descendants of the Snohomish, Snoqualmie, Skykomish and other allied tribes who were signatories of the 1855 Treaty of Point Elliott. The treaty is a lands settlement between the US government and Native American tribes of the Puget Sound area in what was then known as the Washington Territory. Noted signees of the treaty include Chief Seattle, Territorial Governor Isaac Stevens (I attended Isaac Stevens Junior High) and Chief Patkanim. To learn more about the Tulalip Tribes, visit the excellent Hibulb Cultural Center and Natural History Preserve for an in-depth look into tribal histories, lands and customs.
Red barns – old and new!
This place has seen better days…
What a beautiful field…
Before leaving the Tulalip area and heading back down south, I might have hit up the Tulalip Resort and Casino, located just off 1-5. And I might have won (or lost) a few dollars… I’ll never tell. But what I will say is the Tulalip Resort and Casino is quite grand and if you’re looking for a quick shot of that Vegas vibe without leaving the state, they can hook you up. Nice onsite lodging, a spa, great restaurants, entertainment and opportunity to win (or lose) a little cash…
Further south on I-5, you’ll come to several exits for county seat of Snohomish County, Everett. Since Snohomish is quite large, this trip definitely required several days of hard-hitting “research” and for the Everett portion, I brought along one of my dearest friends and longtime travel buddies, Emily-Suzanna. We’ve hit up some pretty amazing places around the world together, but it was time to do some exploring in our own backyard. Plus, we can handle each other for long periods of time, cooped up in a vehicle together without punching each other. Bonus! And whenever someone joins me on a quest, we get to sample WAY more tasty foods and beverages… Road trip buddies for the win!!
To make the most out of Everett and the most out of our day trip, we got an early start. Even on a sunny day, the area between Edmonds and Everett can get foggy in the morning, making an eerie start to the day. The Union Slough is a marsh mudflat area on the way to Everett and early in the day, there’s often low-lying layer of fog covering the area. It can certainly feel a bit haunting as you make your way up I-5 – into the misty embrace of adventure… (I’ll be right back. I think I need to go drink tea and read some Tolkien.)
If you’d like to explore the slough and observe all of the great wildlife and water birds, the Union Slough Mitigation Bank & Trail is accessible off of I-5 or downtown Everett. Also in the area are the Langus Riverfront Park and its two loop trails and the bird-watching haven of Spencer Island.
An eerie morning on the Union Slough near Everett
Our first point of investigation was downtown Everett. Covering roughly 10-blocks, the downtown core is filled with businesses, restaurants, entertainment and a great collection of historic buildings. The Historic Everett Walking Tour, courtesy of our friends at the Granite Falls Historical Society, is a cool way to check out the scene. Click here to get started with your smart phone adventure!
Since it was still relatively early in the day, I was convinced I needed more caffeine to fuel the adventure. I’d hear about a great coffee shop downtown called Narrative Coffee so we made it our first stop – and I’m absolutely glad we did. It’s a cool space in an older building with exposed brick walls, an open-air design and a super friendly staff – And the coffee was excellent! I’m a devoted lover of coffee and have tried a variety of styles, beans, add-ins, etc. over the years, but I’ve settled back on either an Americano or Espresso Con Panna. (w/extra whip. Duh.) On this occasion, however, I was inspired to try their mocha made with Ritual Chocolate and I have no regrets. It was delicious and just what I needed to perk me up in the foggy morning.
Making delicious coffee at Narrative Coffee
Tasty coffee and chocolate to take home
A great space!
The entry at Narrative Coffee – I want this in my home!
Great downtown space – for great coffee!
Feeling alive and ready for adventure, we walked up a couple blocks to the amazing, over-the-top, glorious, SUPER FUN, spectacularly kick-ass Funko Headquarters & Store. If you’re unfamiliar with Funko, they make the collectible block-headed figurines modeled after all things pop culture and beyond. (Golden Girls figurines anyone??) In addition to selling pretty much all of their figurines at their store, they also feature an impressively large variety of collectible gear from movies, sports and more. A visit to the Funko store is like a visit to the pop-culture mothership! They even have a section of the store where you can custom-make your own Funko doll. And even if you don’t want to nerd out over their wares, they also feature the most elaborate displays inspired by movies, comic books – you name it – all around the store. It’s a store AND a pop-culture museum – and fun for ALL ages. If you can’t find something you love at Funko, I’m worried for your soul. (Special props to Emily for helping me differentiate between want and need while perusing the Funko treasures. For the record, I did put a few things back. Because I know I’ll be returning. Heh heh.)
These guys are huge!
I also really needed this bag…
Yes, I now own this bag.
Soooo many things…
Seriously. This is AWESOME!
Harry Potter Funko!!
Funko Dobby! Hooraaay!!!
The Force is strong with Funko!
You could sit in the Batmobile!
If you’re hanging out downtown, Everett has a variety of eateries. A few places to check out while you’re in the area:
Head over to Capers & Olives if you have a passion for delicious pasta, seasonal dishes and local ingredients served by a knowledgeable staff. (Owner/Chef Jimmy Liang has credits including Café Juanita, Serafina and The Herb Farm) Closed Sundays.
If you’re looking for a dive bar with loud, live music and a good burger, check out Tony V’s Garage. They’ve also been known to host School of Rock concerts on weekend afternoons. (All ages) My nephew played his very first gig there, in fact. Kind of weird to see a 15-year old playing behind a chain-link fence in a bar, but hey – get ‘em rockin’ out young! (PSA: It was all on the up and up. NO underage drinking took place – or any other teenage shenanigans. Other than 15-year olds bustin’ out Led Zeppelin… Quite nicely, I might add. Aunt Dayna was proud!)
Cookies, cakes, fresh bread, pastries, macrons, sandwiches… If any of these made-fresh-daily items sound tasty, stop in at Choux Choux Bakery and get your bread on!
If you’d like to enjoy a sauna and some delicious Pelmeni (And who doesn’t?), hit up Downtown Banya for all your Russian spa – and cuisine – needs. (Closed Tuesdays)
Delicious pasta at Capers & Olives
Everett has an extensive waterfront area, as well as one of the west coast’s largest marinas, Port of Everett Marina. (Important note: They allow live-aboards at this marina – something not available at many NW marinas. And one day I WILL live on a boat…) There are many things to do, restaurants to appreciate and views to enjoy on the waterfront. We had a great time investigating the scene during our Everett adventure. A couple of the highlights – and more:
Scuttlebutt Brewing Co. is located near the marina, looking out towards the water. They have great beer, make excellent cocktails (try the Bloody Mary!) and feature a varied menu of very tasty treats. They also host events and recently featured a very unique afternoon filled with Baby goats and Pints! I had hoped to check it out and was unable, but my friend and co-worker, Kara attended got to snuggle up to an adorable 2-day old baby goat. Awwweee!
That Bloody Mary was delicious!
My friend Kara and the baby goats! Awwweee! (Photo credit: Kara P.)
Delicious food at Scuttlebutt Brewing Co.
Patio seating available on sunny days
Baby goats and kegs of beer. What could possibly go wrong?? (Photo credit: Kara P.)
Yum!!
Just next door to Scuttlebutt Brewing, you’ll find Bluewater Organic Distilling. My dear friend, Lorrie was pretty bummed not to be with me on this adventure as she raves about the place. It’s understandable given their great organic spirits, distilled onsite along with their tasty cocktail and bistro menus. Enjoy one of their cocktails from their patio seating while looking out over the Everett Marina and waterway.
The distilling operation at Bluewater Organic Distilling
Yes, please.
Conveniently across from Scuttlebutt Brewing…
During the summer months, check out the free Music at the Marina They run Thursdays and Saturdays in the summer with children’s concerts on Thursday mornings.
For an enjoyable day on a sandy, mini-island, take the free ferry over to Jetty Island. Lounge on the beach with a picnic, build a sandcastle or try a bit of kite-boarding. A few important items of note: There are no cars, no electricity and no running water – And it’s a good idea to reserve your ferry crossing in advance. (7/5 – 9/2)
One of the industries for which the Northwest is best known is aviation and Snohomish County is its biggest supporter. In addition to Boeing’s enormous presence, there are airports, museums and fascinating exhibits to enjoy. There are many important spots in both Everett and neighboring Mukilteo. We’re heading to Mukilteo next, but while you’re in Everett, here’s a good handful to get you started:
Paine Field is located in both Everett and Mukilteo and has a rich aviation history dating back to 1936. Originally planned as a commercial airport, it instead provided support during WWII and the Korean War and militarily into the 60s. In 1966, Boeing purchased land north of Paine Field to build an assembly plant large enough to accommodate their new 747. Most recently, Paine Field has finally realized its longtime commercial flight plan and they now offer limited flights to and from several west coast locations. I’ll be flying into the airport next month and am very excited to check out the scene! (And to not deal with Sea-tac traffic.)
The Flying Heritage & Combat Armor Museum is located on the southeast corner of Paine Field and features painstakingly restored WWII era aircraft, tanks, combat armor and related exhibits. (Tues – Sun, 10a – 5p)
Created in 1997 out of the need for both airport expansion and still maintaining important wetland areas, the Narbeck Wetland Sanctuary was born via a process called mitigation banking. After checking out the vintage planes, stop in for a peaceful walk along the 2 miles of public trails.
Everett has a great downtown core, a beautiful waterfront area and a huge stake in the vibrant aviation industry, but it’s also got a quirky side. Should you be feeling quirky, consider these options on your next Everett adventure:
If you’d like a different take on the local aviation scene, head to High Trek Adventures for a high-flying zip-line adventure, a round of mini-golf or go night-owl and check out their Night Zip & Climb. They even have a Fear of Heights Class!
My friend Lorrie was sad about missing Bluewater Organic Distilling, but she was particularly forlorn to have missed scouting out the Twin Peaks Laura Palmer House. I am a fan of Twin Peaks, but Lorrie is a SUPER fan. Don’t despair, Lorrie – we’ll go back! (708 33rd Please be respectful and admire from a distance.)
Don’t worry, Lorrie – I promise we’ll go back. (You Twin Peaks super fan, you!)
Not only can you get great Irish and American fare at Shawn O’Donnell’s American Grill and Irish Pub, they also work with local travel agency 58 Stars to host – or help you plan your own – trips to Ireland. Enjoy a pint of Guinness in the land of its birth!
The AFK Tavern is a local haven for gamers, nerds, geeks and all manner of combinations. Food, drinks, a casual and comfortable atmosphere and they’re open late! I’m quite happy you can get a ‘Dragon Burger’ with ‘Red Ring of Death’ sauce – or perhaps the ‘One Ring’ burger with ‘Mt. Doom Sauce’ is more to your liking. If you can’t decide what you want, don’t worry – the menu has tooltips.
For a bit of classic Everett kitsch, stop by the Totem Diner for all manner of diner staples – plus BBQ. They have an extensive breakfast and lunch menu and are also open for dinners Wed-Sat until 8pm. Since 1953.
Just a little further South down the I-5 corridor is the cozy town of Mukilteo. For this adventure, I took I-5, but if you’re looking to avoid traffic and enjoy the scenic water views, taking Broadway to 41st Street out of Everett and then Mukilteo Blvd along the water is a nice way to go. It will also conveniently lead you down to the iconic Mukilteo Light Station (c. 1906 – On the National Historic Register) and adjoining Lighthouse Park.
The iconic Mukilteo Light Station
A lovely day for exploring Lighthouse Park
The gift shop at Lighthouse Park
I typically only visit the area when I’m boarding the Mukilteo/Whidbey Island ferry, but I’ve made a promise to myself to visit the park more often. It’s a beautiful area and there is plenty of shoreline to enjoy the fabulous views of neighboring Whidbey Island and the Puget Sound. Tour the lighthouse, learn more about the 1855 Treaty of Point Elliott at the spot it was signed, stroll the Mukilteo Walking Tour, bring a picnic and watch the sunset next to one of the beach fire pits – or use the boat launch to head out on your boat. (Take me, take me!) Lighthouse Park and the Mukilteo Light Station are excellent spots to spend the day. (And you might even randomly run into one of your best friend’s mom while you’re hanging out. Thanks, Judy for giving me more of the hometown Mukilteo scoop!)
A beautiful day on the water
A gorgeous view of the Olympics from the Mukilteo Docks
The newest ferry in the fleet, the Suquamish. (Olympic Class, 144-car ferry, 1500 passengers, Oct 4 2018. )
If you forgot to pack the picnic basket, there are several great dining options near the lighthouse and ferry terminal. Grab a quick bite while you’re waiting to board the ferry or take a load off and enjoy the easy-going pace of Mukilteo while enjoying the view. A few places to meet your Mukilteo needs:
I much enjoy the Diamond Knot Brewery & Alehouse. They have a great ice cream and coffee shop up front for the quick treat as well as a family-friendly dining room and large bar area for the adults. Plus – you can get a GIANT stuffed tater tot! Seriously – a giant stuffed tater tot, a couple pints of their Kolsch Style Ale and a bowl of Seafood Chowda’ and you’re set! The rest of their menu is also pretty stellar – including their breakfast menu. Make time before your ferry calling to try their customizable eggs Benedict… Also, their servers called me “miss” – and that’s just adorable. (And a fine way to get a good tip.) In addition to their location on the water, also check out their Production Brewery & Taproom near Paine Field and their Brewpub in nearby Mountlake Terrace.
You can throw those peanut shells right on the floor…
Seafood Chowda’!
This was a GIANT tater tot!
Great location down by the ferry terminal
Delicious Kolsch-style beer at Diamond Knot
For the classic NW dining experience, check out Ivar’s at Mukilteo Landing. Ivar’s acres of clams in Mukilteo! And if you only have a small bit of time while waiting for the ferry, head to their walk-up window for fish-n-chips, their famous chowder and soft-serve ice cream. And then make a mad dash back to your car before they start boarding and you end up being “that guy.” (Nobody wants to be “that guy”…)
Grab your fish-n-chips and race back to the car before the ferry loads!
I’m sure that Arnie’s has more on the menu besides prawns and shrimp – and their seafood bisque – but I actually wouldn’t know. I’m a life-long lover of prawns and the fact that Arnie’s actually hosts a Festival of Prawns every October-November pretty much seals the deal for my ordering preferences. All prawns, all the time. (I’m pretty sure the rest of their menu is quite delicious.) Located a block up from the ferry terminal – in Edmonds, too!
Good vegan restaurants can be hard to find, but Mukilteo’s Sage and Cinder, just up from the ferry terminal accomplishes the task. Lovely late lunch and dinner options and brunch on the weekends – give them a try!
Enjoy a nice steak or tasty pork loin while looking out over the Sound at John’s Grill. Just up from the ferry terminal, family friendly and a cozy atmosphere – Enjoy!
There are many ways to work off all the great food options in Mukilteo. You could check out the yearly, city-wide Mukilteo Garage Sale (4/27) or maybe hit up the Traxx Indoor Raceway for a few laps in one of their custom go-karts. If you’d instead like to lap through the lush greenery of the shoreline areas, try the Japanese Gulch Trailhead. And for the ultimate walking tour, head to the Boeing Future of Flight tour located at Paine Field…
The tour at the Boeing plant, in the largest building in the world (by volume), is a must for any aviation aficionado and enjoyable for all. The tour lasts 90-minutes and takes you through North America’s only publicly accessible commercial jet assembly plant. They also have a pretty amazing Aerospace Gallery, gift shop, café and observation deck – And don’t forget to check out the Destiny Module Exhibit for a taste of life on the International Space Station. A few important items of note: You must be at least 4-feet tall to join the tour, 16-year olds and under must be accompanied by an adult and it’s highly recommended to book tours in advance. No cell phones or cameras allowed. (There are fee lockers available onsite.)
While in the area of Paine Field, be sure to stop in at Kilo-7 to visit the Historic Flight exhibit of fully restored/operational planes from 1927 – 1957. Note: If you’re in the area on May 11, be sure to stop by for Opening Day of flying season. Most importantly, you’ll get to bid bon voyage to their Douglas C-47B/DC-3 as it departs at 3pm for Normandy, France to participate in the 75th anniversary of D-Day.
The largest building in the world! (by volume)
Another Snohomish County ferry harbor and one of my favorite spots in the greater Seattle area is the charming town of Edmonds. I love Edmonds for its great downtown area, its proximity to the Sound and its great support of the Arts. It’s only a 20-minute drive from Seattle, but when I’m hanging out in the downtown area, I feel like I’m visiting a quaint, coastal community.
Lovely downtown Edmonds
Great for a stroll…
For the artist, Edmonds is very welcoming and supportive. As a musician, I’ve had the privilege of participating in many Edmonds events over the years and I hope to be a part of more to come. (My nephew has even gotten to play at the Edmonds Art Festival! Again, Aunt Dayna is so proud.) If you’re up for enjoying a fine performance, taking in a cool gallery or checking out any number of artistic endeavors, here are a few of my favorite options:
The Edmonds Center for the Arts regularly hosts great concerts as well as local theatre, film series and more.
The Edmonds Art festival is an absolutely wonderful way to spend the day. Check out a large variety of regional and national artists and craft vendors, local food trucks and food specialties – and great local music. (June 14-16)
Check out the Taste of Edmonds for great food, craft vendors, entertainment, rides and more. There’s something for everyone! (Aug 16-18)
The downtown Edmonds Farmers Market offers an excellent selection of NW produce, artisan foods and crafts and more. Check out their website for specific hours and locations. (Saturdays from May – Sept)
The Edmonds Theater (c. 1923) is awesome. Period. Not only do they show first-run movies in their historic location, they also regularly feature special showings and hard to find shows. (For example, they’ve celebrated Wookie Life Day with the once-aired TV spectacle, Star Wars Holiday Special. RIP, Peter Mayhew.) I love the Edmonds Theater.
For a monthly dose of art, hit up the Edmonds Art Walk in the downtown area. Galleries, shops and cafes are showcasing their wares along with music, written word, culinary treats and more. (Third Thursday of the month, 5-8p)
The awesome Edmonds Theater
The Edmonds downtown area is a great place to while away the hours. There are so many shops, restaurants and things to do, one day is never enough. Some excellent diversions to enjoy while visiting the downtown Edmonds area:
As I’m sure you’ve probably gathered, I like to travel. I love it, in fact. Traveling to places far and near, meeting new people, trying new foods, listening to new music – these are the things that bring us all a bit closer. It is for this reason I first visited the town of Edmonds, home to none other than, RICK STEVES, travel god.
Just a block off Main Street in downtown Edmonds sits the Rick Steves home base and mothership. It’s a great place to learn about all the tours they offer, but also an excellent resource for planning your own adventure. They offer classes, books, information – all the things you need to get your foot out the door and onto a plane. (Or train. Or boat. And so on.) I would’ve been lost (literally) had they not been around while I was planning my very first solo trip abroad. (Years ago – when the Internets weren’t quite as robust as they are today) And if you ever have the chance to attend a Rick Steves lecture or event – DO IT. The man is a dynamic whirlwind of information.
The travel guide mothership!
The travel god, himself: RICK STEVES!
As if the Rick Steves shop weren’t enough, there are countless other great shops, restaurants and more in the downtown area. Just a few to occupy your time:
The Spangler Book Exchange is a great bookshop in downtown Edmonds, which I’m sad to say is closing after 30 years! Their last day of business is May 29th and they have big sales going until then. I hope whomever takes over the spot keeps the awesome book murals on the building exterior.
A sad loss! Get there by May 29th! I really hope they keep the exterior paint job…
If you have a great love of fancy soaps as I do, visit The Papery and revel in their offerings. They also have a great stationary selection as well as coastal décor and other assorted goodies.
All the soaps!
Salt and Iron, located in the center of downtown offers local oysters, great steaks, craft cocktails and other delectables such as grilled octopus and roasted bone marrow. Mmmmm…
Located in a cute shopping strip a couple blocks south of the downtown core, The Cheesemonger’s Table offers a great selection of local and European cheeses and meats as well as a full menu of sandwiches and other tasty fare.
In the same group of shops as The Cheesemonger’s Table, check out Otherworlds for a taste of geeky goods, steampunk, Sci-fi, arts, games and more!
Steak AND fresh Oysters!
Cheese AND Steampunk – together at last!
For coffee, pastries, sandwiches and more, visit Café Louvre and enjoy a lazy afternoon. Dream of Paris while reading that Rick Steves guide you picked up earlier…
The Red Twig Café and Bakery is a great stop for brunch, lunch and all-day crepes. Crepes! More dreaming of Paris…
If you’d rather read that Rick Steves guide while drinking a great local pint, check out the Salish Sea Brewing Co. They feature a great locally-crafted beer selection and pub-style menu. (I like their Honey Golden Ale!)
If you’re craving a taste of the Islands, Barkada, located just south of downtown is a great new addition to the Edmonds food scene. A mix of Filipino and Hawaiian tastes, their menu offers everything from Spam Musubi to Sisig to fresh oysters. They also have a brunch menu on Sundays – and a great specialty cocktail menu. I can’t wait to try more!
Delicious Spam Musubi
This Sisig was SO good!
Downstairs at Barkada
Upstairs dining and bar at Barkada
A delicious new spot in Edmonds!
Walk just a couple blocks from downtown and you’ll come to the Edmonds waterfront and the Edmonds/Kingston Ferry Terminal. Aside from waiting in line for the next ferry, there are many things to occupy one’s time on the waterfront. (That are much more enjoyable than hanging out in your car, playing Candy Crush. But I would never do that.)
Check out Marina Beach Park and the Edmonds Marina Boardwalk area and enjoy the local beach. There’s also an off-leash area where you can take that road-weary pooch for a quick break before boarding the ferry.
If scuba diving is your jam, dive into the Underwater Park and check out its hidden treasures. My friend, Beth (and earlier Snohomish County travel-buddy) used to spend quite a bit of time exploring the area and always had great stories about friendly octopi and other sea creatures – as well as cool sunken vessels.
I mentioned their Mukilteo location earlier, but don’t forget about Arnies Restaurant for all things seafood. Did I mention they have a festival of prawns in October and November?? Enough said.
Open on weekends for tastings, the Scratch Distillery offers some very distinct spirits. They started with gin, which they still feature, and also do vodkas, whiskey and a very unique bier schnaps. (Dog and kid friendly)
190 Sunset is a newer hot spot on the Edmonds Waterfront. Featuring fresh seafood, great steaks and chops as well as a great bar and weekend brunches, they’re definitely a good reason to miss your ferry.
For a relaxing pint on the waterfront, head to Brigid’s Bottleshop. They’ve got several beers on tap as well as local ciders and snacks. Fill up your growler or grab some bottles for the homestead. (Pet friendly, 21+)
Watching the ferries come and go from Edmonds
Just walking around Edmonds and the waterfront is a great way to get in some exercise and a few steps. If you’d like to make it more official, there are several great trails and walks around the area. A great area just off of Main Street as you’re heading towards the downtown core is Yost Park, Shell Creek Trail and the Highline Trail. It’s an intricate set of trails located in Shell Creek ravine – Download a map for the trails HERE. (Definitely check out the map if you’re unfamiliar with the area) For a little more of a walk/hike, you can head over to Pine Ridge Park for more trails and woodsy scenery.
On the way out of Edmonds, I often like to take Highway 99 back towards Seattle. Not only do I get to avoid I-5, it also takes me through another great Snohomish County town, Lynnwood. But before we make it to Lynnwood, there are a few cool spots along the way:
If you have a passion for fusion cooking, like I do, Bar Dojo is the place to go. Featuring Asian and Chino Latino cuisine, Bar Dojo is a one-of-a-kind place. Spicy chorizo ramen, ginger hoisin prawns, pork belly nachos, Banh Mi tacos – WHAT?? That’s just amazing.
Should you like to feed your inner – or outer – geek, hit up Another Castle – Arcade Edition right off Highway 99. They feature all manner of old-school arcade games, pinball, snacks and beer! Family friendly. They also have video game stores in Lynnwood and Marysville – by the Tulalip Casino.
Known as “The Starbucks of Taiwan,” the 85°C Bakery Café chain is taking the NW by storm. First in California and now with several NW locations, this is one of my favorite bakeries of all time. The variety of pastries, cakes, coffees and teas they feature is impressive – including items definitely not found in your standard US bakery. (I recently tried a ham, corn and tuna grilled sandwich/pastry. Oddly good.) Their location on Highway 99 is now open with their official opening on May 17th. Go now, before the line gets too long. Seriously. There’s always a line.
If you’re in need of great local produce, but don’t have time to hit up the farms directly, check out Country Market on Highway 99. (Also in Everett, Lake Stevens and Burlington)
Some of the bounty I brought home. The one on the bottom right was filled with hot dogs. True story. (And it was delicious!)
Their new Highway 99 location. Get in line NOW!
Things go fast!!
This was seriously delicious.
Rounding out my excellent Snohomish County is the close-to-home, always-has-what-I-need, very lovely Lynnwood. The area is often thought of for its large amount of shopping opportunities, but there is so much more to be found. Great food, great parks and a great central location to get to all of the Seattle-area hot spots – it’s great! From downtown Lynnwood, you are easily within 20-minutes of downtown Seattle, downtown Bellevue, Everett, Snohomish and more. But there are many other things to enjoy within Lynnwood proper.
If shopping is indeed on your list, Lynnwood has what you need. (The area gets particularly busy during the holidays – Yowsa!) Here are a few of the mainstays:
Alderwood Mall is your usual mall setup, but with the addition of nice outer and inner courtyards, lined with hanging lights, trees and places to sit and enjoy a coffee. If I have to go to the mall, Alderwood is often where I head. They also have a great REI store, a state-of-the-art movie theatre, Nordstrom’s and several restaurant options. Including the aforementioned 85°C Bakery Café. (Get in line now.)
A nice outdoor experience at the mall
Heading down to REI to see what they’ve got…
Just across the way from Alderwood Mall is one of the most amazing grocery stores EVER. H-Mart, the ultimate Korean grocery store, not only features an extensive array of Asian foods and home goods, it also hosts a great food court, various side shops, and the Le Bon Patisserie. (Try their Buttercream filled buns, matcha rolls, hot dog pastries and custard buns) Also, don’t miss Beard Papa’s crème puffs and Hometown, a great Korean spot in the food court. (Their Bibimbap is excellent!)
Just a small part of the seafood section
That’s right – there are hot dogs in there!
For the record, both Kit Kat varieties were DELICIOUS! (Strawberry/Chocolate and Orange Creme)
Sooooo much kimchi!
Welcome to H-Mart!
Located in the same parking lot as H-Mart, is one of best places to get a burger in the known universe, Katsu Burger. I honestly can’t rave enough about this place. There are several locations in the greater Seattle area, but this one is my favorite as it gets crowded, but never as much as say, the Capitol Hill or Ballard locations. Come for the deep fried katsu burgers, stay for the Korokke or the Nori Fries. For the record, the pork katsu Ninja Deluxe burger rocks my world. It is amazing.
Ohhhhhhhhh, Katsu Burger, I love you.
I would eat here every day.
And if you didn’t get enough to eat at H-Mart or Katsu Burger, check out Taste of Korea for tasty beef bulgogi, hot pot dishes and more delicious Bibimbap. Located in the same parking lot as H-Mart and Katsu Burger.
While I do often shop in the Lynnwood area, there are also many lovely parks and hikes to check out. After all, I have to go somewhere to work off the Katsu Burgers and pastries from the 85°C Bakery. If I’m in the walking and exploring mood, here are a few of the places I enjoy:
Not too far up from the shopping core, you’ll find the beautiful Heritage Park. The grounds are lovely and home to several early Lynnwood structures. (Then known as Alderwood Manor) Tour the grand Wickers Building, the NW Veterans Museum, the Interurban Trolley Car #55 and more. Sit under one of the gorgeous willow trees and just relax…
Wickers Building
A lovely drinking fountain at Heritage Park
The perfect spot for a picnic
The historic Heritage Water Tower
The historic Interurban Trolley Car #55
Head down to the beach and Brown’s Bay via the lovely Meadowdale Beach Park and Lunds Gulch Native plant-life, salmon, salmon berries and more. Beautiful!
Lynndale Park is Lynnwood’s largest park with 22-acres of native forest and has great trails for hiking and walking. It also has a skate park where I’m pretty sure my nephew recently left a couple teeth – and bit of skin – behind. Eeesh.
Scriber Lake Park is a quiet, natural preserve in center of town. It features a floating boardwalk, walking trails and is an unexpected spot of peacefulness in the center of town. Nearby is the Scriber Creek Park and Trail. It’s a much smaller area than the lake park, but there are some beautiful spots to check out.
Lovely trail next to Scriber Creek
Scriber Creek
Skunk Cabbage
Beautiful trees near Scriber Lake
The trail near Scriber Creek
Beautiful willow tree near Spragues Pond
Near Scriber Lake and Scriber Creek
If you’re really in need of a walk or jog – or maybe prefer to commute via bike, hit up the Interurban Trail and earn several days’ worth of steps. It runs from Everett to Lynnwood at 11.8 miles and is great to hop on for a short stint or the longer haul. (But remember – that’s 11.8 miles one-way…)
It’s inter and it’s urban!
11.8 miles!!
And with that, I’m all worn out – and full of Katsu Burger… I’m heading back to my home base in North Seattle, just across the border from Snohomish County, to take a nap. It’s wonderful knowing that just a short drive away are so many amazing and beautiful things to see and do – and eat! Snohomish County is an area of great contrasts and resources and well represents the broad diversity of Washington State and I’m happy to be a neighbor. I will admit it’s sometimes difficult to go too far past its borders as Snohomish County truly has so much variety to offer. It makes it a bit hard to venture out to all of the other amazing counties in Washington State… But not that hard – I know what I need to do. What I must do… I gotta EAT THE STATE! And that’s what I’m going to do… Stay tuned for more adventures!
Cheers!
And to accompany you on your road trip –
I Ate the State: The Playlist – check it out on Spotify
Keep on Runnin’ – Journey (from Escape)
Half-Life – Duncan Sheik (from Daylight)
Crooked Teeth – Death Cab for Cutie (from Plans)
Wait Until Tomorrow – Live at the Nokia Theatre – John Mayer (from Where the Light Is: John Mayer Live in Los Angeles)
The Most Beautiful Girl (in the Room) (Live) – Flight of the Conchords (from The Distant Future)
Wonderboy – Tenacious D (from Tenacious D)
Only Happy When It Rains – Garbage (from Absolute Garbage)
Good Morning! – Duncan Sheik (from Daylight)
Someday You Will Be Loved – Death Cab for Cutie (from Plans)
I Think I’m Paranoid – Garbage (from Absolute Garbage)
Still They Ride – Journey (from Escape)
Robots (Live) – Flight of the Conchords (from The Distant Future)
Stop This Train – Live at the Nokia Theatre – John Mayer (from Where the Light Is: John Mayer Live in Los Angeles)
Wherever Is Your Heart – Brandi Carlile (from The Firewatcher’s Daughter)
Are You Alright? – Lucinda Williams (from West)
Merry Go ‘Round – Kacey Musgraves (from Same Trailer Different Park)
Come with Me Tonight – Bob Schneider (from I’m Good Now)
3×5 – John Mayer (from Room for Squares)
Step Off – Kacey Musgraves ((from Same Trailer Different Park)
Wayside / Back in Time – Gillian Welch (from Soul Journey)
Speed Trap Town – Jason Isbell (from Something More Than Free)
The Moon Is Made of Gold – Rickie Lee Jones (from Balm in Gilead)
I Ate the State 