I Ate the State – Spokane County

Downtown Spokane as seen from Edwidge Woldson Park

I spent my formative years in the eastern part of Washington. Specifically, in the dry, desert climes of Pasco, which is part of the Tri-Cities. A very key route in and out of the Tri-Cities is US-395, which is where my most recent adventure to Spokane County begins. Come along as I journey through this big-sky part of the state.

Sure, there are areas of western Washington with big, stretching skies, but there’s nothing like coming over Snoqualmie Pass on I-90 and descending into the Ellensburg area. The sky opens up, the mountains fall behind you, and you realize you need to turn on the AC or heat, depending on the season. There is definitely not as much rain on this side of the Cascades.

For this trip, I took I-90 over Snoqualmie Pass and made my way towards the Tri-Cities via I-82 and I-182. Once in Pasco, I met up with my dear friend, Kerri, and we headed out on US-395 to I-90 at Ritzville and on towards Spokane. I hadn’t been to Spokane in a while and Kerri had spent several years living in the area. It’s always nice to have an area expert on board – AND a longtime friend. Adventures were afoot! (or in a car)

  • Pro Tip: Always check the WSDOT for pass reports and road status regardless of time of year. If it’s not a snowstorm in the winter, it might be long delays for roadwork in the summer. Rock blasting anyone?!

There are also many other ways to get to Spokane County, depending on your starting point. You’ve got your US Route 2, which goes all the way to the UP in Michigan, and the stunning North Cascade Hwy SR-20 in Okanogan County to US-395 near Barney’s Junction. If you’re coming from Canada, it’s a 2.5 hour drive from Grand Forks, BC to Spokane on US-395. Idaho, you say? It’s a quick hop across the border on I-90 from Post Falls or nearby Coeur d’Alene. So many ways to get to Spokane!

  • Hot Tip: Want to earn some local cred? It’s pronounced Spo-CAN, not Spo-cane. For an excellent primer on Spokane, be sure to listen to the song Spokane’s Not Dumb. (Also included in my playlist at the end of the article) It’s one of the best songs about Spokane EVER.

I have many fond, and some not-so-fond memories, of US-395 and the drive towards Spokane. My first tax-paying job came at age 14, picking up litter with the WSDOT Ecology Youth Crew. We spent a lot of time alongside US-395 picking up copious amounts of trash. Throw in rattlesnakes, truckers honking their horns, questionable/unmentionable discarded items, having to wear a hardhat, gloves, and boots in +100 degree heat… FUN! I rocked that job for 4 seasons before moving to the glamorous world of fast food. I even wrote a song called Litter Bug Blues during my litter crew tenure. Perhaps one of these days I’ll get around to recording it… Maybe for the road trip album I’m planning for my I Ate the State project… (You’re welcome.)

Looking at the pictures above, you may see stretches of… a whole lotta nothing… of wide open, rolling brown browniness… While that can certainly be the case, especially during the hot months, there is much beauty to be found in all of that open space. I’ll admit to ignoring much of it when I was younger, preferring the green of the western side of the state. However, visiting as an adult and finally taking the time to really explore the open areas, I’m struck with just how much beauty, diversity, history, and adventure exist around every corner.

Once such area to be found off the concrete swath of US-395 is the 130-mile Columbia Plateau Trail State Park. If you’re headed east on I-90, take Exit 245 at the town of Sprague. Follow along SR-23 to Sprague Hwy Road E to Williams Lake Road, which then becomes E Williams Lake Road. The trail actually starts in Spokane and ends near Pasco with many points of entrance along the way, but this entrance provided a nice distraction from the freeway. (Discover Pass required in park.)

Following the quiet backcountry roads, we wound our way down to the scenic Downs Lake area. Along the way, there were areas to join the trail and take off on horseback, should you have the four-legged means. The examples of flora and fauna along the way are beautiful, with desert flowers, grazing cows, and interesting rock formations dotting the landscape.

When we arrived at the lake, we were greeted with lovely views of mountain ridges and lakefront access. I’ll cover more of the area in my upcoming Lincoln County article, but it certainly was a nice to take a break from the concrete and enjoy some of the solitude of this part of the state.

After spending some more time on I-90, we came upon our destination of Spokane County and its namesake, the city of Spokane. Named after the Native American Spokane People, it serves as the county seat and largest city in the county as well as largest city east of the Cascades. Spokane is indeed quite a sight after the long, browniness drive. Both Yakima and the Tri-Cities are good-sized areas, but Spokane holds the crown in the eastern part of the state for city-style living. It had been a while since I’d visited Spokane and I was looking forward to a new adventure and checking out how its grown in recent decades.

Home to the Spokane Tribe of Indians for millennia, the Spokane area has been instrumental as a place of trade and passage in this part of the country. With the establishment of a North West Company depot in the early 1800s, trade was opened up from the Inland Northwest to Canada. The area was brought to further prominence with the addition of rail expansion in the latter 1800s. This brought Westward expansion and an influx of European immigrants to the area, which spurred further development in the area, including logging and mining. The city was officially incorporated as Spokane Falls in 1881, and ten years later as simply Spokane.

In more modern times, Spokane has continued to play an important part in America’s development and traditions. Did you know Father’s Day was founded in the Spokane area? True story! Local resident, Sonora Smart Dodd was the creator of the holiday with the first Father’s Day celebrated on June 19, 1910, in Spokane. The holiday didn’t become nationally recognized until 1966 when President Lyndon Johnson signed a presidential proclamation, followed by President Richard Nixon making it official in 1972. Father’s Day has fallen on the third Sunday of June every year since.

Important note: While not as nationally significant as Father’s Day, the Spokane area was also host to the Uncle Dan’s ranch dressing operation for many decades. (It actually started in Yakima, my home town, in 1966. I am genetically predisposed to crave ranch dressing. That’s just science.) Now also an American tradition, ranch dressing can be slathered over most foods. Veggies, meats, pastas… cookies… (I once ate chocolate cookies dipped in Uncle Dan’s on a dare. Not horrible.) They are now located in nearby Hayden, Idaho, but will always be from Yakima and Spokane in my heart and belly. Hidden Valley Ranch is fine, but The Dan is much better. Fight me.

Heading into the downtown Spokane area after spending a couple of hours in the brown surrounds of I-90 is quite an adjustment. Tall buildings, interesting architecture, hotels, restaurants, theatres, bridges – all the city things are on display! Kerri and I had decided to splurge on our hotel, so we took an exit which would bring us directly into the heart of the city.

I’d visited the Historic Davenport Hotel on past trips but had never stayed there. It was always a little too rich for my artist funds. Fast-forward to actually having a savings account, and a good friend along for the adventure, we decided to split the costs and live it up. Treat yourself!

After parking and emerging into the hotel lobby, we were greeted with a warmth and grandeur rarely experienced in modern hotels. There was much history here, and you could feel it. Times-past lived on in this place and it felt like being immersed in a living story. It was hard to get through the check-in process, albeit short, as I immediately wanted to start exploring!

Built in 1914, the Davenport has played an important role in Spokane’s history and as part of the National Registry of Historic Places, has a wealth of history to share. From grand celebrations to visiting dignitaries, the hotel has charmed guests throughout most of the twentieth century. After falling into decline, it was closed in 1985 and barely avoided demolition. Lovingly and painstakingly being restored to its former glory, it reopened in 2002 to great fanfare. Even if you’re just stopping in to grab a cup of coffee in the hotel lobby, the Davenport is well worth a visit. (Although, in the spirit of treating oneself, I’d recommend a leisurely weekend or at least a summer cocktail on the Roof Garden Terrace.) Located in the heart of the downtown Davenport Arts and Entertainment District, it’s an excellent base for your artistic explorations.

Walking through the halls and peeking into the beautiful ballrooms is akin to being in an interactive museum. Just wandering around showcases Spokane’s history and provides a trip abroad via the hotel’s lavish Renaissance and Spanish Revivals stylings. The ballrooms transport you back in time and the architectural detail and design are stunning. I clearly should’ve packed a gown rather than my standard NW adventure attire. Next visit!

If you happen to be feeling peckish, the hotel offers delicious dining opportunities. Check out the appropriately named Peacock Room Lounge for a classic cocktail and meal. It’s said the delicious Crab Louie salad was possibly invented at the Davenport in its early days – and is on the menu to this day. (Named after the original proprietor of the hotel and local businessman, Louis Davenport.) There’s also the grand Palm Court Grill for a lovely breakfast, lunch, or dinner, easily accessed on the main floor of the hotel. They even do afternoon tea! Should you simply be looking for a good cup of coffee and a pastry, head to the Emporium, located in the lobby area.

While I’m fairly certain the Davenport will remain at the top of my list for future Spokane visits, there are indeed other hotels to check out in the downtown area. In addition to the Davenport, Marriot Bonvoy also now operates the Davenport Lusso, the Davenport Tower, and the Davenport Grand. On my next visit, I plan to head to the Davenport Grand to check out the steaks at Table 13. (Open for dinner only)

In addition to the Davenport/Marriott affiliated hotels, there are many other great options in the downtown area. A few places to consider on your next visit to Spokane:

Note: The Davenport Lusso is temporarily closed for renovations and will reopen in February 2025.

While getting settled into the area around the Davenport, we checked out a few nearby spots. I’ll formerly cover restaurants later in the adventure, but some of our initial discovery might’ve required… treats. We’d planned on driving around the downtown area and randomly seeing what we could see, but you can’t just jump in without the proper fuel. Honestly.

A stop at Bruttles Gourmet Candy Shoppe should be considered a must on any Spokane visit. Their famous Soft Peanut Butter Brittle candy is DELICIOUS and I could eat it every day. Another must on any visit to Spokane is the Spokandy Chocolatier shop. Their Pastel Mints are amazing and should generally be kept away from me. That said, I recently found them at a very cool candy shop in Bothell, the Sugar Rush Candy Store. DANGER. And should you maybe want some fuel for the mind, don’t miss Spokane’s sprawling literary staple, Auntie’s Bookstore.

All fueled up with treats, we jumped in the car and pointed our wheels in no particular direction. Whenever visiting a new town, I always love to just drive or generally wander around with no agenda. Or map. Every once in a while, I’ll bust out the GPS to reorient myself, but I’ve found wandering about is usually a great way to happen upon amazing sights. And remember, not all those who wander are lost…

Some of the interesting spots we happened upon during our maiden voyage in downtown Spokane:

As we continued our wanderings, we found ourselves rambling through some of Spokane’s oldest and most stately neighborhoods. I’d played a few shows in Spokane over the years and on a couple of occasions stayed with some very gracious hosts in these neighborhoods. I have very fond memories of the grand vistas and well-established, tree-lined streets.

Containing many homes on the National Registry of Historic Places, the Brown’s Addition neighborhood is Spokane’s oldest. Featuring many grand homes and mansions built in the early 1900s, this part of town was also home to the Spokane People for millennia prior. While driving around the neighborhoods, it was easy to get caught up in another era.

During our wandering, Kerri steered us towards a beautiful spot in the nearby Marycliff-Cliff Park Historic District. Filled with more stately locales, it’s a great place for a larger view of Spokane. Looking out over the downtown core from Cliff Park and Cliff Drive was an excellent way to check out the scene. We also drove by Edwidge Woldson Park which features a fantastic view, rugged basalt fissures, and lovely Ponderosa pines. On my next visit to the park, I plan to check out the Tiger Trail as well as the Moore-Turner Heritage Gardens. (Built between 1889 and 1932.)

Next up on our agenda was to check out the childhood home of famous entertainer, Bing Crosby. Before entertaining the world, he spent his formative years in Spokane. Born in 1903 in Tacoma, his family moved to the Spokane area in 1906. During this time he and his family lived in the area of Gonzaga University and the University District. In his teen years, Bing Crosby attended the university before eventually leaving in 1925 for Los Angeles and worldwide stardom.

Founded in 1887, the beautiful Gonzaga campus features not only the Crosby home, which is now a museum, but also the Jundt Art Museum and Myrtle Woldson Performing Arts Center. Whether you’re a student, a lover of the Arts, or simply on a random drive around town, the Gonzaga campus is definitely worth a visit.

One of the most prominent and vital areas of downtown Spokane is the beloved Riverfront Park. Set alongside the scenic Spokane River and Spokane Falls it is a must-visit part of downtown. Serving as an integral part of the area for hundreds of years, the area was a popular tribal fishing area and continues to remain an important part of Native American life. In the late 1800s and into the mid-1900s, the area was known as Havermale Island and supported much business and industry, including railways, rail depots, and more.

Festooned by sturdy basalt rock, the area supports two dams and is home to the country’s largest urban waterfall. The island in the center of the river, known as Snxw Island (Salish for “salmon people” and named by the Spokane Tribe ) is an important and beautiful core to the river scene. A visit to the island is a great way to learn more of local history and take in the natural beauty of the area.

By the 1960s, city leaders were looking for a way to revitalize the Havermale Island area. The city successfully put in a bid to host the World’s Fair and plans were underway. As the smallest city to host a World’s Fair, there was much work to do and planning to perfect. Much of Havermale Island was razed and construction for the first environmentally-themed World’s Fair, Expo ’74 took shape. As part of the agreement to hosting an environmentally-themed fair, it was planned to create a park out of the area after the fair’s end. Today’s Riverfront Park is the happy result of this provision.

The now iconic Spokane Pavilion at the Riverfront was a featured part of the fair. It was a gift to Spokane from the federal government and served as the US Federal Pavillion during the fair. It maintains its importance to the downtown area to this day and hosts many events as well as the ongoing Pavilion Light Show on weekends.

The Clock Tower and ’74 Expo Pavilion at Riverfront Park

With pedestrian bridges joining the north and south parts of the park, the area is incredibly accessible and filled with many sightseeing and adventure-filled opportunities. If you’re driving, the Post Street Bridge & Monroe Street Bridge (c. 1911 and on National Registry of Historic Places) provide access to and around the park. Should you be in search of a more adventurous journey to the park, check out the 64-mile Centennial Trail. This two-state trail visits Nine Mile Falls, Riverside Park, Liberty Lake, and Spokane Valley, extending 24-miles into Idaho, via Post Falls and Coeur d’Alene.

Playing host to much of the city’s festival and events scene, the park is central in both location and in the heart of Spokane. There’s something to do and see any day of the year. For your next Spokane visit, consider some of these Riverfront Park highlights:

  • The Spokane Lilac Festival takes place on the second Saturday of May, culminating on the third Saturday with a giant parade. This festival is an important occasion in Spokane and features many events, including a brewfest. (May 10-17, 2025)
  • Feel like stretching your legs? Leading up to the Lilac Festival, the Bloomsday run is an annual 12k race which stretches throughout Spokane. (May 4th, 2025) 
  • Running during the summer and early fall months, celebrate all things the Bard at the popular Shakespeare in the Park.
  • Hit up the Pig Out in the Park festival over Labor Day for great music, food, beer gardens, and public market booths. Running since 1979, this multi-day free festival is an excellent way to head into fall.
  • I’m a sucker for a carousel and the beautiful Looff Carousel is one of my favorites. Growing up, friends would tell me of their weekend Spokane trips and grabbing the ring on the carousel. I was always envious and SO excited when I finally got the opportunity to take a ride. Giddy up! (On the National Registry of Historic Places)
  • Take a lovely walk throughout the park and enjoy a bit of artwork on the scenic Sculpture Walk. Along the way, do NOT miss the very awesome Garbage Goat. Designed for Expo ’74 by local artist Sister Paula Mary Turnbull, known as the Welding Nun, it eats garbage via a button press/vacuum mechanism. It even has its own Facebook page. I love the Garbage Goat!
  • I’m a big fan of gondolas as it usually means I’m on a ski hill. You don’t, however, have to don skis to enjoy the Numerica Skyride Gondola. Get on board and enjoy a beautiful ride over the Spokane River, Spokane Falls, and under the Monroe Street Bridge.
  • Bring your skates or grab a rental pair and check out the Numerica Skate Ribbon. The rink features roller-skating, roller-blading, and skateboarding in the warm months and ice-skating in the winter. They also have firepits to accompany all of your hot chocolate needs.
  • The Great Northern Clocktower was almost torn down in 1974 as part of the Expo planning, but was thankfully saved. It was part of the Great Northern Railway Depot, which was demolished in 1972 as part of the Expo work. It stands as a soaring tribute to Spokane’s industrial history.
  • While not technically part of Riverfront Park, don’t miss Huntington Park for a beautiful view of Lower Spokane Falls. (Walk down the stairs underneath the Gondola.) Along the way, check out the historic Post Street Electric Substation (Washington Water Power building, c. 1910 – on the National Registry of Historic Places) If you’re looking for a little Science and discovery, stop by the Mobius Discovery Center during your explorations.

In addition to Riverfront Park, there are many other options for entertainment in the downtown Spokane area. Live music, theatre, museums, and much more can be found throughout the city. A few options to further your love of the Arts:

  • Included on the National Registry of Historic Places, the Art Deco Fox Theater has been an artistic core of the Spokane community since 1931. Fully and beautifully restored in 2007, the theatre features an ongoing roster of performances and is the home of the Spokane Symphony orchestra.
  • Originally known as The Clemmer and an important force in the development of American cinema, the Bing Crosby Theatre is a Spokane classic. Having been fully restored in 1988, it now supports all manner of performance and the Arts. (c. 1915 and on the National Registry of Historic Places)
  • You can find the Spokane Jazz Orchestra performing at the Bing Crosby Theatre throughout the year. Featuring local, northwest, and national artists, the SJO is a driving force in bringing all things Jazz to the Spokane area.
  • Many stellar bands have performed at New York City’s popular NW satellite, the Knitting Factory. Regularly featuring music and dance parties, the venue is one of the top venues in the area. Dining and drinks are available at their District Bar.
  • Should you be looking for a bit of fine arts action, head to the Northwest Museum of Arts & Culture, located in the Browne’s Addition neighborhood. Founded in 1916 and an affiliate of the Smithsonian, this well-curated museum is a great place to enjoy the NW art scene and more.
  • Maybe you want your Spokane Arts experience to be more participatory? Stop by The Ridler Piano Bar & Music House in downtown for a fun night out. Featuring dueling pianos along with drinks and small plates, join in and leave your worries on the doorstep.
  • If you happen to be feeling lucky, head about 15 minutes west of downtown to the West Plains area and hit up the Northern Quest Resort & Casino or the Spokane Tribe Resort & Casino. Big bucks, no whammies!

Spokane has a large number of tasty restaurants from which to choose. Whether you’re downtown, up on hill, or in a suburban area, Spokane has you covered. Other than my youthful dining experiences and some hazy, late-night affairs when in town to play shows, I haven’t been able to really investigate or enjoy Spokane’s restaurant scene. To say I was happy to be in town with the express purpose of checking out the city and eating good food, is definitely an understatement.

My 12-year old self fondly remembers the quirky C.I. Shenanigans as the height of Spokane dining, but since it abruptly closed in 2012, I was unable to relive my childhood glory. (I call shenanigans!) Thankfully, The Old Spaghetti Factory is still holding down the fort of my childhood favorites and is located in the downtown area for all your pasta needs. While maybe not the height of Italian fine dining, it’s got a quirky charm about it. And I’ll always be a sucker for their brown butter and mizithra pasta. (I still mourn the loss of the Seattle Spaghetti Factory location.)

Another favorite of my earlier days is the classic Clinkerdagger. I remember when this restaurant came to the Tri-Cities with much fanfare. It used to be known as Clinkerdagger, Bickerstaff, and Petts and I recall a local radio station running a contest to see how many times – or how fast? – you could say the name. If you were fancy in the Tri-Cities, that’s where you went, especially if you were on a date. It’s also where my obsessive love of crème brulee began. Fast-forward a few decades, it’s no longer in the Tri-Cities, but can still be found in its original location in Spokane. Crème brulee for all! (or as it’s known on the Clinkerdagger’s menu, burnt cream.)

Clinkerdagger is located in the historic Flour Mill building (c. 1895), which hosts many shops and businesses and is worth a visit in and of itself. Relatedly, be sure to check out the Wonders of the World shop. It reminds me of the original, pre-fire Ye Olde Curiosity Shop on the Seattle Waterfront and is filled with quirky treasures. (Anyone in need of a 50,000 year-old cave bear skeleton?)

Clinkerdagger’s is also filled with quirky wonder and features an Old English themed décor. The classic dishes compliment the classic décor and there’s something tasty for everyone. This beloved eatery also features an outdoor patio and an appropriately darkened bar area. Try the BURNT CREAM. (Okay, fine. The rest of the menu is pretty tasty as well.)

Alrighty. I’ve covered some of the hot spots of my formative years. As my tastes have continued to broaden over the years, here are a few more restaurants to add to the list:

  • Also taking advantage of the river scene, the Osprey Restaurant & Bar is located next to Gonzaga University and features breakfast, lunch, dinner, AND BBQ. Does the menu also say crème brulee? Yes. Yes, it does! Additionally, they also feature a dinner and show series in conjunction with the Myrtle Woldson Performing Arts Center next door.
  • This northwest classic showcases all things seafood and a great view of the falls. Head to Anthony’s at Spokane Falls for tasty meal and don’t forget to try their… BURNT CREAM! (It’s a theme!) I’m also pretty fond of their chowder and their “3-course dinner” option.
  • I haven’t been able to visit Luna yet, but it’s high on my list for my next Spokane adventure. The dinner menu looks fantastic and highlights local ingredients and seasonal menus. They also have a “Forty-dollar Martini” on the menu. While my wallet might not be intrigued, I am… (Shut up, Dayna’s wallet – It comes with accoutrements!)
  • Also on my list for next visit is the modern French restaurant, Francaise. I’m always on the lookout for a good Croque Madame or Duck à l’Orange and both are on their menu. Along with… Crème Brulee!! I’ll be stopping by… Located in the Perry District of the South Hill area.
  • Also located in the Perry District, The Shop serves great coffee, baked goods, fancy cakes, local craft items, and more! Back in the hazy part of my memory bank, I remember visiting The Shop while in town to play a show. The fact I can remember any of it is probably largely due to their great coffee…  
  • Not only do they have unicorn in their name, the Gilded Unicorn has a TATOR TOT CASSEROLE. And deviled eggs! And while they don’t have crème brulee, they do have chocolate lava cake, so Imma let it slide. And they love unicorns! Open for happy hour and dinner every day.
  • Should you want to enjoy a beer and cuddle a puppy, stop in at Bark – A Rescue Pub and enjoy the love. Not only do they have a great tap list and pub food menu, they partner with the Spokane Humane Society to help find homes for rescue dogs and cats. (Note: The dogs and cats live in a separate but accessible area and can be visited before, during, and after your visit.) Open daily for lunch and dinner with brunch on the weekends.
  • If you happen to be looking specifically for tasty breakfast and brunch spots, there are several great options to choose from in the area. Don’t miss a visit to Washington’s oldest dining car restaurant, Frank’s Diner. (c. 1906) The original location is downtown, but they can also be found in North Spokane. Molly’s Family Restaurant comes highly recommended by Kerri and her family. Bringing classic diner fare to the table, this popular local spot can be found downtown, not too far from the Steam Plant. Also close to the Steam Plant, the charming Rosie’s Restaurant features breakfast classics and more.

Another classic in the area is Zip’s Drive-in. Located in several Spokane-area spots as well as Idaho, this delicious institution was founded by Robert “Zip” Zuber in Kennewick in 1953. (Tri-Cities represent!) Interestingly, this was the same year McDonald’s opened in California. However, they’re both beat out by In-N-Out which opened in 1948 in California. Old-school burger credit where old-school burger credit is due. (Special message to In-N-Out: I hear you’re finally coming to Portland. This is great, but please come to Seattle. Thank you. Special message to Zip’s: No disrespect. You will always have my heart. Also, please come to the west side of the state.)

My first job in the food industry was at 15, directly after my tenure ended with the litter crew. As mentioned above, the first location was – and still is – in Kennewick by the Cable Bridge. I chose, however, to work in the action-packed location by the area mall, the Columbia Center. (aka: The Center.) I have many incredibly fond memories of my mom and I taking on a hard day of bargain-shopping at the mall and wrapping it up with some tasty burgers and a tub of extra-crispy fries at Zip’s… Ahhhh, such good memories…

I can’t tell you how many of said “tubs” of extra-crispy fries with tartar sauce I’ve eaten, but I know it’s a large number. Throw in a Papa Joe or Belly Buster, and one of their handmade shakes, and you’re in business. I do, however, much lament the fact their Dog-Gonner no longer appears to be on the menu. A cheeseburger with two halved/grilled hot dogs, and toppings… DIVINE. Although, since Zip’s isn’t a franchise, each location does have some menu variations. I’m holding out hope that at least one of the locations still has this delicious concoction on their menu. A girl can dream. And you know how much I love hotdogs. (IMPORTANT UPDATE: The Zip’s located in Ritzville has the Dog-Gonner on the menu. SCORE!!)

Sunny days, outdoor dining, river and lake scenes, an arid climate… What are things that compliment wineries, breweries, and a great restaurant scene? Spokane easily answers the question and has no shortage of dining and top-shelf adult beverage opportunities. Whether you’re interested in wine tasting, a robust brew pub scene, or a distillery, Spokane has your back.

Feel like celebrating the amazing northwest wine scene? Consider one – or several – of these great tasting rooms on your next visit:

  • Located in the Kendall Yards area of Spokane, the Maryhill Winery & Tasting Room features a great view of the river and downtown along with some award-winning wines and tasty small-plates. I’m particularly fond of their Grenache and Chenin Blanc wines. And if you happen to be visiting Maryhill Winery during mid-May through late-September, be sure to stop in at the Kendall Yards Night Market (5pm – 8pm, seasonally) If you’re interested in visiting the actual vineyards, head to Goldendale and the Klickitat County area and enjoy some quality time on the Columbia River.
  • The vineyards and winery are located in Benton City, but Terra Blanca also has a lovely tasting room in downtown Spokane. Featuring varietals from the famous Red Mountain AVA, everything I’ve tried from this winery has been fantastic. Located in the historic Chronicle Building.
  • The main winery operation for Barrister Winery can be found in a beautifully restored building in the downtown area. (c. 1908 – on the National Register of Historic Places) They also have a tasting room located across from the Davenport Hotel, next to Auntie’s Bookstore. In addition to wine, they also feature live music on Wednesdays and Fridays throughout the year, as well a gallery showcasing local artists.
  • Located in the East Downtown Historic District, the boutique winery Robert Karl Cellars features several award-winning wines created with Washington state varietals. I’m a fan of their Claret and Sauvignon Blanc wines.
  • Located just over from the Fox Theatre in downtown, Helix Wines features wines made with PNW varietals. They are related to Walla Walla’s Reininger winery and also have a tasting room in the Walla Walla area.

In the mood for a cold frosty one? Maybe looking to do a pub crawl? No problem! Check out these options:

  • I haven’t been able to visit the No-Li Brewhouse yet, but I do like their beer. (Try the Corner Coast Golden Ale or the Lager!) Located in the university district near Gonzaga and the Spokane River, their Brewhouse and Bier Hall look extremely cool.
  • Featuring beer and a “Run Club,” Uprise Brewing is located in the Kendall Yards area. Do some cardio with the Run Club and then enjoy some tasty beer and food! A perfect combo. (Note: I’m a big pilsner fan, and theirs is pretty tasty.)
  • I love Locust Cider & Brewing Co. I wasn’t able to get to their downtown taproom, but I’ve been a longtime patron of their taproom in Woodinville. Along with their ridiculously delicious ciders, this location also features a small menu including pizza. Founded in 2015 in Washington, they’ve now expanded their cideries and taprooms to Colorado. I love their Dry Cider. Get a growler! (family friendly)
  • Though temporarily closed due to renovations at the adjacent Davenport Lusso hotel, the Post Street Ale House is a great place to enjoy a pint and tasty pub fare. They’re scheduled to reopen in 2025.
  • Not to be confused with the infamous Garbage Goat of Riverfront Park, Iron Goat Brewing serves up locally crafted beer and pub eats. No garbage involved. They do, however, feature a Goatmeal Stout. I’m intrigued by the Bob’s Your Uncle robust porter. Next visit!
  • Located appropriately on South Perry Street, Perry Street Brewing features locally-crafted beer and food in a family friendly setting.
  • Should you want to add a pub crawl to your day consider hopping aboard the Spokane Party Trolley with a group of your 21+ pals. Peddle your way to local bars and eateries in very unique style.

Perhaps you just need a classic martini or a straight up shot of whiskey. (or whisky – your call!) It’s always a good idea to enjoy a hand-crafted cocktail on a summer day. Or spring… And fall… Definitely in the winter… Check out one of these spots next time you’re in Spokane:

  • Located in the Washington Cracker Building in the East Downtown Historic District, the Hogwash Whiskey Den specializes in craft cocktails, whiskey flights, and a very delicious food menu. (Whiskey Barrel-aged Shoyu Ramen or Okonomiyaki Tater Tots anyone?? YES, PLEASE.) They also have the names of their bartenders and chefs featured on their website. Props!
  • The nationally successful Spokane distillery Dry Fly Distilling features many excellent spirits. I’m a fan of their gin and their Straight Washington Wheat Whiskey is delicious. I haven’t had the chance to sample their onsite food offerings, but the menu looks quite intriguing. They also offer cool cocktail making classes as well classes like “Distill your own gin.”
  • Located in the heart of downtown, the very hip Bistango Martini Lounge offers expertly shaken or stirred martinis and several very tasty, sharable small-plates. Kerri and I very much enjoyed visit to Bistango. Another round, please!
  • If you’d like to celebrate the end of the National Prohibition Act, stop in at Volstead Act and victoriously imbibe. Located in the downtown area, this very cool bar features craft cocktails and a very nice whiskey/whisky list. Cheers to the 21st Amendment! May forever it pour.
  • Perhaps before or after your visit to the aforementioned Volstead Act, stop in next door at the Cochinito Taqueria and choose something from their very tasty looking menu. They also have a good looking drink menu. Next trip!

Well, that was a lot of talk about delicious food and drink. Maybe we should work some of it off at one of the Spokane area’s many surrounding parks and recreation areas. Just walking around downtown or exploring one of Spokane’s many charming neighborhoods is always a good plan, but nearby Riverside State Park offers many great outdoor distractions.

In a nutshell, there is A LOT to do at Riverside State Park and its surrounding areas. After just a 25-minute drive north of downtown Spokane you’ll find camping, cabins, canoe and kayak spots, a boat launch, fishing, and more! Did I mention there’s also mountain biking, hiking, ORV trails, rock-climbing, snowshoeing, x-country skiing, and snowmobiling?? And MORE! Set alongside the Spokane and Little Spokane Rivers, Riverside Park has it all! (Discover Pass required)

In case you’re not exhausted from your visit to Riverside State Park, there are many more outdoor opportunities very close by! Check out these adventure-filled spots:

  • Don’t miss nearby Nine Mile Falls or a hike to the overlook of the historic Nine Mile Dam (c. 1908) via the Centennial Trail. (Dam!) (Always looking for a chance to work in my dam(n) joke…)
  • If you’d like to do some fishing in an idyllic location, head to Lake Spokane (Long Lake) and drop in your line. There is camping at the Bowl and Pitcher in Riverside State Park, but there’s additional camping and day-use areas up the road at Lake Spokane Campground.  (Fishing license required)
  • If you’re looking for a literal horse-powered adventure, check out Pacific Northwest Guided Trail Rides for year-round guided horseback rides through Riverside State Park. They even have sleigh and carriage rides during the winter!
  • For some adventure bonus points, be sure to explore the Spokane River Water Trail as it winds its way through the above areas.
  • Relatedly, there are a lot of rafting opportunities on Spokane area rivers. One of the popular outfits is Wiley E. Waters Whitewater Rafting. Apparently there’s an area called the “Devil’s Toenail” on the Spokane River Whitewater trip. Yep, I’m gonna need to check that out. There’s also a Spokane Wine & Dine trip. I’m IN. Next summer visit.
Hop onto the Centennial Trail from Riverfront Park

Outdoor pursuits are a big part of the PNW and Spokane County definitely has much to offer. I’m a huge fan of skiing and hiking and there are some fantastic options around the Spokane area – and into neighboring Idaho. There is a year-round abundance of outdoor opportunity to be found throughout Spokane County.

Clocking in as the largest state park in Washington state, Mount Spokane State Park has a whopping 100 miles of trails in and around the beautiful Selkirk Mountains. This includes Mount Kit Carson and the Mount Spokane Ski & Snowboard Park. Part of the park and a non-profit ski hill, Mount Spokane is a beautiful area to explore throughout the year. You might even see a moose!

If skiing is your thing (okay, fine – snowboarding, too), head out of Spokane via SR-206. After upwards of an hour’s drive from downtown Spokane (weather dependent), you’ll arrive at the scenic Mount Spokane ski area. Skiing has been part of the area since the early 1900s, with the Vista House at the Mount Spokane summit being built in 1933. (on the National Registry of Historic Places) Adding to its historical stakes, the world’s first double chairlift opened on the mountain in 1947. In addition to two day lodges, they also have a mountain tap house and yurt! Who doesn’t love skiing up to a mountain yurt, popping off your skis, and grabbing a beer?? Dreamy. (Discover Pass required in summer, Sno-park permit in winter, but not at ski hill. There is snowmobile parking NE of the currently closed Bear Creek Lodge which requires a Sno-park permit.)

If you’re up for a little more mountain action, be it winter or summer, here are a few more options for you to explore in the greater Spokane – and Idaho – areas:

  • Another wonderful ski hill close to Spokane is 49° North, located about an hour and fifteen minutes out of downtown Spokane. Along with Mount Spokane, it is known as one of the lesser-crowded ski areas in the PNW. The ski hill is located off of US-395 in Chewelah, WA. (part of the Colville National Forest)
  • If you’re interested in what Idaho has to offer, head to the Sand Point area and visit Schweitzer Mountain. In addition to great skiing and winter activities, they also have lodging, summer events, and a spa. (Upwards of a two-hour drive from Spokane)
  • Slightly closer and not too far across the border in Kellogg, Idaho, Silver Mountain Resort offers winter and summer activities as well as lodging and a spa. (About an hour and fifteen minute drive from Spokane)

If you’re visiting in the Spokane area during the summer and are looking to do some hiking, consider exploring these scenic options:

  • The Mount Kit Carson Trail is a 7.5 miles round-trip trail which starts in the park and heads directly to the summit of the area’s second tallest peak, Mount Kit Carson. There’s also the option to hit up two mountain peaks by continuing on Trail 160 to nearby Day Mountain. (Discover Pass required) Note: This is a year-round trail and is shared with snowmobiles in the winter.
  • For a longer, more strenuous look at area mountains, head to the Three Peaks Loop trail. This 12.6 mile round-trip hike takes you to Mount Kit Carson, Day Mountain, and Mount Spokane. Depending on time of year, there are huckleberries to be picked. (and possibly some bear also enjoying the berries…) (Discover Pass required)
  • If you’re looking for something more mellow or family friendly, check out the Burping Brook – Smith Gap Loop. It’s an easier-going 5-mile round-trip trail which highlights the deep forests of the area.
  • I love checking out the old fire lookouts of the state. Many of them allow overnight reservations and the fire lookout on Quartz Mt. Fire Lookout within the park is one such location. I haven’t visited this one yet, but it’s high on my list. High, like a fire lookout… (Discover Pass required)

Spread out to the east of Spokane proper, lies the always growing Spokane Valley area. It would be completely easy to fill up a few days exploring the city of Spokane, but the same could be said of adjacent Spokane Valley. A combo pack perhaps? That’s exactly what Kerri and I did with our visit and it was amazing to experience the diverse offerings of the greater Spokane area.

Getting to Spokane Valley is easy! Hop on I-90 East out of Spokane proper and you’ll arrive in the Spokane Valley in no time. (In general, let’s say 15 minutes from downtown Spokane to the Spokane Valley core.) There are many things to do, see, eat, and drink when visiting Spokane Valley. Here are some of my favorites as well some places on my future-visit agenda:

  • I love museums which showcase local history and development. The Spokane Valley Heritage Museum is one such place. It has great displays, is well laid out, and is overall very interesting. However, don’t attempt to take any pictures inside the museum. Don’t do it.
  • Celebrate the entire Spokane County and nearby Idaho at the annual Spokane County Interstate Fair. It occurs the Friday after Labor Day for 10 days and is a celebration of all things Spokane County and close-by Idahoan towns. Agriculture, farming, animals, tractors, fried foods, rides, music, and MORE!
  • For a celebration of all things Spokane Valley, don’t miss the yearly Valley Fest every September. Local festivities are highlighted by local pageantry, music, a car show, local vendors, and more!

I think my love of an old-school burger joint is well-established at this point. If not, I am happy to continue my research and further highlight this great love affair. To support this dedication, we stopped at the classic Ron’s Drive-inn while adventuring through Spokane Valley. My burger was delicious and I’m looking forward to a triumphant return on my next visit. Fairly close by is another old-school burger spot called the Thrifty Scotsman. I didn’t get to visit this time, but I’ll hit up their tasty looking burgers on my next trip into town. No trouble at all.

In addition to old-school burgers, there are a few more Spokane Valley spots I’ll be checking out on my next visit:

  • Perched on a dramatic basalt cliff overlooking the Spokane Valley, the Arbor Crest Wine Cellars and Cliff House Estate have much to offer. This historic property (c. 1925) formerly known as the Royal Riblet House, features wine tasting, dining, music, and ongoing events.
  • Long-established on the Washington state wine scene, Spokane Valley’s Latah Creek Wine Cellars is open daily and features both indoor and outdoor tasting settings and opportunities to visit their onsite wine-making operation.
  • I’d visit Natural 20 Brewing Co. based solely on their name. Nerds unite! This brewery hosts gaming events, trivia nights, and more. Find them at their Spokane Valley Taproom or in their Downtown Spokane Taproom & Brewery. I’m looking forward to trying the Mindflayer Sandwich and a pint of their Spirit Sword Belgian Single. Nat 20 FTW!
  • I always love a good farmer’s market. It’s a great way to get to know local artisans and enjoy tasty treats and crafts. Check out the Spokane Valley Farmers Market for just that! (June thru September with a Winter Market in December)

Just another five or so minutes east of Spokane Valley sits the town of Liberty Lake, one of the fastest growing areas in the US. My friend Kerri and her family lived in the area for several years before returning to the Tri-Cities. The area was still fairly small when they moved in, but by the time they moved away it had more than doubled in size. It continues to grow and is a popular area outside of Spokane proper. If you’re visiting the area, don’t miss Liberty Lake Regional Park for camping, swimming, fishing, hiking, and an ORV park. Liberty Lake is also located just a couple minutes’ drive from the Idaho border and the city of Coeur d’Alene.

If you’re looking for a completely idyllic drive through the countryside, you can’t miss a visit to the Green Bluff Growers area. Located a scenic 12-mile drive north of Spokane and perched on a… bluff overlooking the Spokane Valley, this series of thirty farms and businesses is a year-round gem. During our visit, Kerri and I enjoyed a beautiful fall day exploring the area. We hit up everything from farms to tasting rooms to wonderful country shops. If we’d had a little more time, we might’ve even been able to enjoy a good ol’ fashioned corn maze. (Or maize maze? Bwahahahaa.)

There are so many cool spots to check out in the Green Bluff area. Following are some of the ones we were able to visit and some we’d like to check out on our next visit:

  • We loved our stop at Walter’s Fruit Ranch. We were visiting during the Fall Festival and the farm had something for everyone. Fruit, pumpkin picking, family activities, local vendors and artisans – all the country fair things! They also serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner in the Orchard Café and have a great gift selection in their Country Gift Shop – and drinks at their Press Plate bar.
  • The High Country Orchard was a great stop and I could’ve hung out there all afternoon. They have a great country store, cider donuts, music, an outdoor patio, weekend crafts shows, u-pick fruit, and a very charming country-fair atmosphere. Also, apparently there’s a Green Bluff Party Wagon?? (Note to Kerri: NEXT TRIP!)
  • It was such a lovely day on our visit and our stop at Townshend Cellar was sublime. This winery features indoor and outdoor wine tasting opportunities in a very inviting orchard setting. Along with my wine purchases, I also grabbed some charcuterie items for a mini-picnic outside. Lovely.
  • In addition to its many fresh fruit options, Siemer’s Farm is a mecca of all things country farm. Festivals, fresh cider and pizza, the Mt. Spokane Brewery, a great gift shop, ‘lots of kids activities, seasonal vendors, a corn maze, and so much more!
  • Sporting views of Mount Spokane, Beck’s Harvest House looks pretty cool. They’ve got a country kitchen, country store, music, u-pick opportunities, a harvest festival, and a giant corn maze. I’m IN. Next visit!
  • I’m very intrigued by Big Barn Brewing and their self-sustaining operation. They use produce and hops from their farm and brew their own beer. And have an onsite taphouse. Cool! Next visit!
  • While we were driving around the area, I saw a sign for the Green Bluff Candy Company at the Halbig Family Farm. It advertised u-pick caramels! I will definitely be making a visit on my next trip. Those caramels aren’t gonna pick themselves!

Alas, that wraps up our recent adventures in Spokane and the greater Spokane Valley areas. We ate great food, enjoyed delightful beverages, fed the Garbage Goat, stared out over great vistas and mountains, explored history, and generally had an excellent time. We packed quite a bit into that long weekend! It was time to head back to the Tri-Cities desert and begin planning our next visit.

But wait! There was still a little more exploring to do on the way home… Located a short drive southwest of Spokane, college-town Cheney is home to Eastern Washington University. In addition to its student population, it also houses a charming historic downtown core. (on the National Registry of Historic Places) Additionally, since it is so close to Spokane, it is also a reasonable commute for many people working in Spokane who might require a break from the city hubbub.

On your visit to Cheney, consider these spots for your own break from the city hubbub:

  • Learn a little more about the history of Cheney and surrounding areas at the Cheney Historical Museum. Step back in time and learn more about the western expansion into the area.
  • If you’re up for some hiking, wildlife watching, or general sightseeing, head to the beautiful Turnbull National Wildlife Refuge and enjoy the flora and fauna and many landscapes of the area. This large refuge is located roughly 30-minutes from Spokane and just outside of Cheney. Also located close by is a portion of the Columbia Plateau Trail State Park. Don’t miss exploring its beauty!
  • If you’re visiting the Cheney area in May, check out the local May Fest. Live music, food, local artisans, a car show, a CORNHOLE tournament, and more! Who doesn’t love a good game of Cornhole??
  • As is usually the case with college towns, there’s a good restaurant and pub scene. There are definitely a good selection of watering holes in Cheney, in addition to the requisite pizza, BBQ, and pub fare spots. Did I mention they have a ZIPS??

Another town just off of the I-90 corridor and southwest of Spokane is tiny Medical Lake. I keep a very fond spot in my heart for this little burb and hadn’t visited in quite a while. Back in my far-away younger days, I regularly spent summer weeks at the nearby Silver Lake Camp. Sneaking out of cabins at night to visit the boys’ cabins, waterskiing, swimming, doing frivolous crafts… Halcyon days, for sure. Many, many memories came flooding back on our drive through the area.

Unfortunately, Medical Lake recently battled a very extreme fire and is currently working on area repair and reclamation. The town is hanging on and putting a lot of effort into recovery. Stop in on your way through the area and support the local businesses! Some places to hit up on your Medical Lake visit:

  • If you’re looking for a coffee or a baked goods fix, hit up Roam Roasters, Tommy G’s or Lefevre St. Bakery in the downtown area. Lefevre St. Bakery also serves breakfast and lunch and the menu looks tasty!
  • Lean into that caffeine jolt and enjoy a stroll or bike ride along the paved, 2.9-mile Medical Lake Loop trail. (North and south access to the trail from downtown’s Waterfront Park)
  • Support local artisans at the monthly Medical Lake Farmer’s Market. (2025 Winter Market, monthly thru April, located at City Hall)

And now,now we come to the end of our Spokane County adventures. We still had a little more exploring to do off of I-90 and US-395 on the way home, but I’ll save that for my Lincoln, Grant, and Franklin County articles. Amidst the area browniness, there are many more beautiful experiences to be had. Coming soon!

I’m so glad we visited Spokane County and celebrated its many offerings. Both Kerri and I have a lot of great memories of Spokane County over the years. It was eastern Washington’s “big city” of our youth and presented the possibility of big city adventures. It always held a special mystique and spurred our dreams of the fantastic and exciting. And crème brulee and ranch dressing…

Fast-forwarding a few years, it was great to experience the area through an adult, much more traveled lens. I’ve had the great luck to visit many parts of the world in my adult years, but will always come home to Washington state. I love this state and every visit along its highways and byways always surprises me. Experiencing Washington as an adult, I’m able to more deeply appreciate and understand the state’s diverse environments, history, and ongoing development. Spokane County, with its history, big city vibes, small town charms, and beautiful mountains and plateaus, is a wonderful part of the state and I’m looking forward to my next visit. AND, we no longer have to beg our parents to drive us!

Happy travels!

I Ate the State – Spokane County SPOTIFY PLAYLIST

  • Spokane’s Not Dumb – Jake Beal (from Spokane’s Not Dumb)
  • Swinging on A Star – Bing Crosby (from Swinging on A Star)
  • Reelin’ In the Years – Steely Dan (from Can’t Buy A Thrill)
  • Eye in the Sky – The Alan Parsons Project (from Eye in the Sky)
  • Jolene – Zac Brown Band (from The Foundation)
  • Hey Kind Friend – Indigo Girls (from Shaming of the Sun)
  • Jesse’s Girl – Rick Springfield (from Working Class Dog)
  • Rock Lobster – The B-52’s (from The B-52’s)
  • The Spirit of Radio – Rush (from Permanent Waves)
  • Spokane – The Painted Horses (from The Painted Horses)
  • Don’t You Want Me – The Human League (from Dare!)
  • Abracadabra – Steve Miller Band (from Abracadabra)
  • Crimson and Clover – Joan Jett & the Blackhearts (from I Love Rock ‘N’ Roll)
  • Get A Goat – Formidable Vegetable (from Garbage Guts)
  • Spokane Motel Blues – Tom T. Hall (from Tom T. Hall – Storyteller, Poet, Philosopher)
  • Freeze-Frame – The J. Geils Band (from Freeze Frame)
  • Left Hook Like Frazier – The Delines (from Left Hook Like Frazier)
  • It’s Been A Long, Long Time – Bing Crosby (from Bing – His Legendary Year 1931-1957)

Be sure to check out these other I Ate the State adventures:

Note to Readers: I Ate the State receives no form of compensation or incentive from any business, goods, or services covered in any I Ate the State article.

I Ate the State: Special Edition – Iceland 2024 (and 2021!)

I’ve always been intrigued by Iceland and my interest was further fueled after an unexpected layover en route to the UK a few years ago. Sweeping snowfields, volcanoes, waterfalls, the Northern Lights, dramatic weather, trolls, fairy tales – all the things! Fast forward to today and I’ve now officially visited Iceland two times. I plan on visiting many more times, but in the meantime, I’d like to share my recent adventures in this beautiful land of fire and ice. And hotdogs.

Road to Reynisfjara
Road to the black sand beach of Reynisfjara

My Icelandic trips to this date have all been during the winter. Anywhere between the winter holidays and mid-February, my trips have been filled with snow, small windows of daylight, and some very powerful winds. All of my adventures have arrived on the wings of Icelandair and have involved some pretty amazing deals. (Note: I’m not receiving any promotional credit from Icelandair, but I will say they regularly have some pretty smokin’ hot deals.)

Speaking of Icelandair and the smokin’ hot, I woke up to an email entitled “Your flight is not affected by volcanic activity in Reykjanes Peninsula” on the morning of my most recent trip. The Sundhnúkur volcano had erupted several times in recent months and caused the evacuation of the village of Grindavík. It was apparently erupting again the morning of my trip. (And a couple weeks after my return as well! And activity persists!) Iceland is built on an active foundation of 130 volcanoes and the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, caused by the separation of two major tectonic plates, the North American and Eurasian. To say that Iceland is a hotbed of activity, is both an understatement and very intended pun.

After purchasing a new coat at SeaTac Airport before boarding our flight, my longtime travel pal, Kristin, and I embarked upon another adventure to Iceland. Unlike our last Icelandic journey, we weren’t required to do COVID tests coming or going, so that was a nice bonus. Also in difference to our first outgoing flight to Iceland, this flight was smooth and event free. (No insane turbulence! The kind where you introduce yourself to the guy sitting beside you and perhaps hold hands.) Additionally, the tailwinds were in our favor, and we landed in Iceland a full hour ahead of time.

Travel lessons learned: I create extensive, nerdy, overly-involved travel checklists for every adventure. Yet still, on my first Iceland adventure, I didn’t inspect my hiking boots thoroughly enough and the soles completely blew out within the first hour of walking around in the extreme cold. (Nice boots, but older.) I then had to gingerly walk, in said extreme cold, to find a sports store open on Christmas Eve where I could buy a new pair of boots. This trip, I packed coats, but didn’t pack my main, super-cold-weather coat. It is extremely important to have a warm coat during the winter months in Iceland, so I had to purchase one at the airport in preparation. Moral of the story: Triple check you’ve included everything on your list, and thoroughly vet each item’s trip-worthiness.

On all of our trips, we arrived at Keflavik Airport very early, in the dark of morning. As Iceland is eight hours ahead of Seattle in the winter months, we arrived just after 5am. This can also be a challenge to one’s morning alertness as it doesn’t get fully light this time of year until 10am or so. As we sleepily made our way through the airport, on our way to immigration and baggage claim, I was dreaming of coffee, a nap, and a lot more coffee before beginning the day’s adventures in earnest.

Once we’d cruised through the mercifully short immigration queue and baggage claim, we headed towards our Flybus pick-up area. The Keflavik Airport has good food options, nice shops, is nicely laid out, and is a good place for a long layover. They also have a fairly extensive Duty-Free store, where we stopped for essentials before leaving the airport. Snacks, booze, licorice, booze, snacks, licorice… Important items for any trip!

Pro Tip: You can’t buy beer, wine, or spirits in Icelandic grocery stores and the government-run liquor stores (Vinbudin) aren’t always convenient or open. Therefore, if you’d like to make a cocktail or enjoy a glass of wine at your hotel or Airbnb, stop by Duty Free before leaving the airport and stock up.

One of the things I’d greatly been looking forward to was a return to the Icelandic hotdog. “But you can get a hotdog nearly anywhere,” you say? Yes, there are many amazing hotdogs and sausages to be found around the world and I’m generally on a mission to try them all. That said, the Icelandic hotdogs are particularly amazing, and I was on a mission to try as many as possible on this trip. I’d had a couple on my last visit and had been looking for ways to get them in the US ever since. (Tl;dr – You can’t get them in the US. You can import the condiments, but not the actual hotdogs. Why, USDA? WHY??) Hotdogs are Iceland’s national comfort food and if I have to go to Iceland to enjoy them, so be it.  

And why am I all of the sudden going on about hotdogs? Because there’s a hotdog stand in the airport before you even go through immigration, and another after you’ve gone through! They literally get you right out of the gate. I’ll go into more hotdog detail later in the article (you’re welcome), but I was very excited to see the vibrant red signage of Iceland’s premier hotdog vendor, Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur as we were making our way out of the airport.

After enjoying what will forthwith be known as HOTDOG #1, we made our way to the Flybus pick-up area and were greeted with our first blast of the Icelandic cold. (Glad I invested in that airport coat!) The wait to board the bus wasn’t too long and before we knew it, we were warmly ensconced and on our way towards Reykjavik. The skies were just starting to show the morning light and the hour-long ride into town was filled with great views of the stark, snow-covered landscape.

Circling back to the volcano, which was erupting that morning, there is only one road in/out of the airport to Reykjavik. This particular volcano is relatively close to the airport and surrounding areas, so if lava were to cross the road, which it has recently done in surrounding areas, access to the airport would immediately be cut off. Granted, Iceland has volcano-based contingency plans, and has been incredibly efficient in addressing related issues, but lava’s gonna do what lava’s gonna do. Luckily, our trip into town that day was very expeditious, and unimpeded by lava.

Regarding Flybus logistics – and these are important – you’ll need to figure out your bus stop location when booking. The Flybus will initially drop you off at the bus transfer station and you’ll then need to locate your connecting bus. If you’re staying at one of the hotels in Reykjavik, the transfer Flybus will often drop you off directly at the hotel. If you’re staying at an Airbnb, it’s fairly easy to get relatively close. Since we opted for an Airbnb on this recent trip, we located the stop closest to our Airbnb and prepared for a short walk to our lodging.

Important note: The transfer station can sometimes be crowded and slightly confusing. Keep an eye out for your color-coded bus stop number posted on the busses as they drive into the pick-up area.

Once we had correctly identified where we were supposed to disembark, we hauled our luggage off the bus and stopped to consult good ol’ Google Maps for our next steps. While there aren’t crazy, Seattle-style hills in downtown Reykjavik, there are certainly some decent grades; especially when you throw in snow and ice. In retrospect, I should’ve changed my boots at the airport. Sure, I was wearing some semblance of boots, but they weren’t the greatest for walking uphill in the snow and ice, with luggage and Duty Free. Yes, HOTDOG #1 provided some necessary fuel, but I was greatly in need of some additional caffeinated assistance.

While I will admit to being a little frustrated with the uphill, luggage-filled trek to our Airbnb, it was hard to stay grumpy amidst the completely charming, impossibly quaint neighborhoods. Reykjavik is known for its cool murals and the neighborhood homes are no exception. The homes are also often painted in vibrant colors and feature traditional, Nordic-themed architectural motifs. The neighborhood we were staying in also included many of Reykjavik’s original homes from the late 1800s.

Upon having finally reached our Airbnb, where our host graciously allowed us a (very) early check-in, we happily relaxed in our cozy home-for-the-week. Located next to the 4-star Hotel Holt, known as The Art Hotel, it was a full apartment with two bedrooms, bathroom, laundry and full kitchen. The neighborhood was charming, quiet, and ended up being perfectly situated for adventuring around Reykjavik on foot.

Reykjavik has many great lodging options, including traditional hotels, Airbnb, and hostels. On our last visit, we opted for a hotel booked via the Icelandair options. If you’re looking for an economical option for your trip, the Hotel Cabin is a great spot. It’s not luxurious, and features an IKEA-style of lodging, but also includes a breakfast room, great concierge, and a cozy little bar and lounge area. (It also includes some very… interesting… art work.) It’s also located near the fantastic Sculpture and Shore walkway and the iconic Höfði House, and is a close walk from downtown. In a nutshell, it’s fairly easy to find the perfect spot in Reykjavik from which to embark upon your Icelandic exploits.

After a much-needed nap, it was time for the first walk-about. Reykjavik is an incredibly walkable city, filled with great food, shopping, museums, culture, and never-ending, amazing scenery. There is literally a postcard shot in every direction you turn. During the winter, as long as you’re prepared for the weather, it’s easy to spend the entire day wandering around the downtown core, taking in all the city has to offer.

The weather was beautiful overall on this trip, albeit a bit windier and snowier than our last visit. There was snow and ice on the ground throughout the trip, and it did snow a small bit, but it was generally bright and sunny throughout the trip. My very favorite days are cold and sunny with snow on the ground and Reykjavik didn’t disappoint. (Reminds me of the crisp, cold, winter days of central WA.) And while it may be cold, don’t forget to bring sunglasses and a good SPF along with your warm coat, hat, and gloves.

My first order of business was to find a local coffee shop. I’m always on the lookout for a good cup of coffee and Reykjavik has many excellent options for coffee, tea, and more. One thing to note is there are no big-chain options like Starbucks or McDonalds in Iceland. While I’m slightly sad to not be able to continue to grow my goofy “You Are Here” Starbucks mug collection, I’m more than happy to support local businesses. In addition to many great, smaller coffee spots, you can usually find several Te and Kaffi shops, Iceland’s answer to chain shops like Starbucks. They make a great cup of coffee and feature tasty treats to accompany your drink.

On a sidenote to the lack of Starbucks or McDonalds locations in Iceland, there are an odd number of Domino’s Pizza, Subway, and Sbarro restaurants in Reykjavik. Odd.

Now that I’d refueled with a good dose of caffeine, I was ready to take on the city. But first, there were a few errands to do. On the first day of any trip, it’s a good idea to make sure you’ve made the necessary reservations, grabbed snacks and sundries for your stay, gotten the lay of the land, replaced any items you may have forgotten, and picked up items such as the City Card. (City Cards speed up museum entries, give discounts to local shops, etc.)

Here’s an example itinerary and basically what we did on our first day in Reykjavik:

  • We needed some supplies for the Airbnb, so we stopped by the local Bónus 9-21 grocery store and stocked up on the basics. (i.e. Pastries, cream, mixers, snacks) Even if I’m not in need of supplies, I love checking out local grocery stores wherever I might be. It’s a great place to get an understanding of the local palate, cuisine, and community. (Interesting tidbit: The Bónus piggy mascot is quite iconic in the area.)
  • I’m usually on the lookout for interesting gifts and souvenirs throughout my journey, but it’s fun to hit up some of the shopping options on one’s first day. A great place for a little of everything is the Icelandic chain Icewear. They’re everywhere, with the Arctic Explorer stores being part of chain. Part outdoor, part souvenir, part everything else stores, they feature a great selection of Icelandic wares. (Arctic Explorer is where I got my boots after the Great Boot Blowout of 2021. This time, I found an excellent wool koozie mitten and volcano salt & pepper shakers, among other things.)
  • If you’re further looking for outdoor gear options, stop by 66°North. Think the North Face of Iceland. While I wasn’t looking for a coat or boots at this point, it’s always a great shop to check out.
  • If the city I’m visiting features a card which allows for quick and/or discounted entrance to local attractions, I always grab one. Reykjavik has the aforementioned City Card which has some great discounts and features. We purchased ours online before the trip and picked it up at one of the many featured attractions throughout the city. We opted for pickup at the very cool Reykjavik Maritime Museum. (Museum bonus: This location is also very close to the Viking Saga Museum)

Museum Pro Tip: Double-check opening times and days for museums and they vary between summer and winter.

And now, back to the topic of hotdogs…

It was at this point in the day the first hotdog had worn off. Enter, HOTDOG #2. (Hello, HOTDOG #2! We welcome you!) Since I’d visited the Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur airport stand earlier in the day, I thought it was appropriate to seek out the original stand, circa 1937. Found in downtown Reykjavik and frequently sporting a long line, this is the crown jewel in Iceland’s longtime love affair with the hotdog, or pylsa/pulsa in Icelandic. Visiting dignitaries and heads of state have found their way to this very stand. While they likely didn’t have to stand in line, I was willing to wait my turn for one of these glorious, tubed-meat creations.

Often labeled Iceland’s favorite comfort food, the hotdog has been elevated to epic status in the country’s capital. You can grab a hotdog nearly anywhere throughout the city and beyond. Case in point, it is entirely possible to procure a very tasty hotdog at gas stations across the country. Sure, there’s something oddly tasty about a 7-11 chili-cheese dog at 2am on a Saturday night, but the Icelandic gas station and mini-mart dogs are in another league altogether. (Sidenote: The “Seattle Dog,” as purchased at 2am in the heart of Seattle is another hotdog experience of note. It might just merit its own article. Note to self.)

I’d been dreaming and scheming of how to get Icelandic hotdogs in the states, but as mentioned earlier, the USDA refuses to get onboard. Now that I’d finally returned to Iceland, it was important to take advantage of every day and its hotdog availability. I very nobly decided to take on the self-imposed challenge of eating at least one hotdog a day during my trip and profiling the experience. Since this was already HOTDOG #2, I was off to a great start. Do follow along with me on this noblest of adventures.

Hotdog How-to: There are many different ways to enjoy an Icelandic hotdog, but definitely try one “with everything” on your first time out. What might that entail? Here’s the scoop:

  • One footlong, lightly steamed hotdog bun
  • A squirt of Vals Ketchup (apple based) on the bun followed by finely diced white onion and crunched up fried onions (think French’s Fried Onions)
  • On top of the ketchup and onions, add a footlong Icelandic hotdog (mix of organic, grass-fed lamb, pork, and beef) boiled in beer and water. (They’re done when they float to the top)
  • On one side of the hotdog, add a swipe of sweet brown mustard and on the other side, a swipe of remoulade
  • ENJOY!!
  • REPEAT!!!

With HOTDOG #2 dispensed, we made a quick return to our conveniently located Airbnb to drop off our shopping. It was now time to contemplate our evening plans. Upon reflection, maybe it wasn’t a great idea to plan an adventure that started at 8:30pm after arriving at 5am, with no sleep on the flight, and only a two-hour nap. But whatever, sleep is overrated, right? We’d booked a Northern Lights tour and it was a clear night. The hunt for the space lights was on!

But first, some further sustenance was in order! Yes, I was still partially under the spell of HOTDOG #2, but as Kristen is not a fan of the hotdog (the horror!), she was rightfully hungry. We’d visited Reykjavik Fish on our last trip and it was time to revisit their delicious, perfectly cooked, fish and chips. SO GOOD. Great atmosphere, multiple locations around town, and much more than fish & chips on the menu. Not to be missed!

Fully fueled by delicious fish and chips, it was time to make our way to our new friend, Bus Stop No. 3. The Aurora Lights tour outfit was picking us up for our Northern Lights Small Group Tour at 8:30pm. Booked via the excellent Aurora Reykjavik Northern Lights Center, we were very excited to again hunt for the lights. We’d vaguely witnessed them on our first trip, but we were hoping for a bigger display this time around. Since the best viewing months are September through April, we were feeling lucky.

Unlike the big-bus tour of our last trip, this was a smaller scale operation and featured a very entertaining driver, complimentary hot chocolate, and Icelandic-favorite cinnamon rolls by Braud & Co. (Check out their cinnamon roll recipe) The tour also includes free photos of the adventure, the option to re-book for free if you don’t see the lights, and the ability to head to viewing spots where the big busses can’t go.

Unfortunately, we didn’t really see much of a show that night. We saw a vague display, and though our driver took us to many possible viewing areas, the lights remained mostly elusive. We did have the option of re-booking for another night, but since this was a fairly quick trip, it wasn’t likely to happen. However, do not despair. Our light plight was not at an end. This saga may yet have a happy ending…

In the meantime, some Northern Lights Quick Facts:

  • The Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis) are a result of the sun creating geomagnetic storms that crash into the earth’s magnetic field. On clear nights, they can be spotted in northern locations around the world such as Sweden, Norway, Finland, Iceland, Alaska, Canada, and even Washington state. In addition to a clear night, you’ll also need low-level light pollution. The further away from the city you can get, the better the viewing.
  • Sisters to the northern display are the Southern Lights (Aurora Australis). Typically visible during their winter months of March thru September, New Zealand, Australia, and Antarctica are prime spots for catching the southern display.
  • Viewing the lights with the naked eye is difficult. If the storm is particularly strong, you might catch a small bit of color, but the naked eye will usually only see a wispy, whitish, cloud-like representation of the lights. A lens is required to catch the full-color of the display, be it via phone camera, traditional camera, or video camera. Pro Tip: Be sure to check your camera settings for night viewing options.
  • The lights are very fickle and it’s hard to fully predict when and how strongly they will show. Keep track of storms and stronger viewing possibilities on tracking websites like Spaceweather.com.

After a very necessary rest, the next morning was off to a sunny start. (When the sun fully came up around 10am, that is.) Like all Nordic countries, Iceland is very keen on swimming, saunas, hot springs, and all things aquatic. On our last Icelandic adventure, we made a pilgrimage to the famous Blue Lagoon spa, about forty-five minutes outside of Reykjavik. However, since the volcano was currently erupting in that area, we decided to investigate other options. (The volcano has since erupted again, and lava went across the access road to Blue Lagoon and nearby Svartsengi Geothermal Power Plant. They had the road cleared within a week!)

On this trip, Kristen was making a solo trip to the Hvammsvik Hot Springs (via bus stop no. 3) and I was all set to seek out good coffee and a bit of tasty food. I love a good hot springs as much as the next water lover, but since our trip was on the short side, I was trying to squeeze in a variety of sightseeing opportunities. (and hotdogs) We’d also reserved a day of relaxation later in the trip at the nearby Sky Lagoon and I was hopeful it would cover all of my hot spring and sauna needs.

For the record, the Sky Lagoon was amazing and far surpassed my expectations. The Blue Lagoon is incredibly unique and well worth a visit, but it is also very touristy and crowded. (I was also sick on my visit to the Blue Lagoon and only enjoyed the waters from the bar inside. Heh.) I honestly could’ve stayed at the Sky Lagoon all day, prune-y skin be damned. We opted to do the “Seven Rituals” experience and while I probably wouldn’t do it next time, it was absolutely worth a try. I honestly dream about casually floating around the lagoon, checking out the scenery, and enjoying a glass of wine. DREAMY. I will be back.

Hot Springs Pro Tips: Be sure to make reservations wherever you’re going. I also recommend springing for the private changing room/shower at the Sky Lagoon and throwing in the smorgasbord lunch.

As mentioned, while Kristen was swimming, I was roaming around town, seeking out tasty food and beverage. My first stop was at the DELICIOUS and very quaint, Saegreifinn (The Sea Baron) to try their lobster soup. It’s safe to say, I’d eat that soup every day. If you’re feeling brave, you can also try the classic Icelandic fermented shark dish (Hákarl), along with a shot of Brennivin. (I’ve now had plenty of Brennivin, but still haven’t stepped up to the shark…) The rest of their menu looked very tasty, and I was quite jealous of the dishes coming out to my fellow diners, but I also had… HOTDOG #3 to source.

Now fortified by lobster soup and HOTDOG #3, it was time to roam around and check out the shops. The downtown core of Reykjavik is filled with great shops, restaurants, museums, hotels, and more. The most popular streets are Laugavegur Street, the lovely Rainbow Street, and Austurstraeti Street. Should you be looking for chain stores, there are also shopping malls like Kringlan and Smáralindar, located just outside of downtown which feature upscale brands and the like. However, since the brand stores are largely available at home, I always prefer to comb the downtown areas for unique, local shopping opportunities. 

Case in point, Iceland has some pretty epic candy options. They have great chocolate, absolutely, but one of the first things I grab is one of their nine million kinds of black licorice. Love it or hate it, Iceland and all of the Nordic countries have cornered the market on black licorice. If that’s your candy jam, be sure to make a stop at Vínberið, located on Laugavegur Street. Not only do they have an excellent selection of licorice and chocolate, but the staff is also very nice, and they give free samples. Be sure to try some of Reykjavik’s delicious OmNom Chocolate while you’re there. Omnomnomnomnom! (Sidenote: I’m very excited to report I’ve recently found a candy shop two blocks from my home which stocks Icelandic candy, including OmNom!!! Check out Sugar Rush if you’re in the Bothell area! They also have a great selection of British candy. Mmmmm… Curly Wurly bars… )

Reykjavik has many excellent museums to explore. We were hoping to visit the Perlan Museum on our last visit, but due to COVID closures, were unable. Not the case on this trip! After Kristen had returned from her leisurely swim, we grabbed a taxi and headed just outside of downtown to visit this very cool museum. Set on a hilltop, this dome-shaped building offers an amazing 360-degree view of the area, including downtown Reykjavik and some pretty amazing foothills and snowy mountains. (Note: Get a discounted entry with a City Card)

Featuring well-curated exhibits, the museum covers Iceland’s natural wonders, including the Northern Lights, volcanic activity, and all things icy. If you don’t get a chance to check out the Northern Lights, lava, or super cool ice caves in person, Perlan is great option. Their shows featuring the Northern Lights and volcanic activities are excellent, but I was particularly impressed by the actual ice cave exhibit in the lower part of the museum. Very cool! Literally. Be sure to wrap up your visit with a snack or meal in the beautiful dining area located on the museum’s upper level. The 360-degree view of the sunset through the glass dome was absolutely stunning.

Taxi Tip: There are a few good taxi companies in Reykjavik and the busses are great. (#BusstopNo34life!) We used the reputable Hreyfill Taxi to take us to and from Perlan.  

On the topic of transportation options, and generally getting around in Iceland, we chose to rent a car for a day of adventuring on our last trip. We headed out on the epic, 800-mile Ring Road (Route 1), with the black sand beaches of Reynisfjara as our ultimate destination. Along the way, at every turn, we encountered some of the most spectacular scenery on the planet. Reykjavik proper is a wonderful place to visit, but I can’t recommend enough getting outside of the city to further take in the endless Icelandic beauty.

Rental car pro tip: Get rental insurance, AWD, know how to drive off-road (and possibly ford rivers), and maneuver in snow/adverse conditions; especially in the winter. Iceland ain’t messin’ around when it comes to driving adventures.

It’s firmly planted on my bucket list to complete the Ring Road during the summer when it’s a little less precarious. I’d like to take a full week to leisurely explore its treasures, including stopping at every accessible waterfall and glacier possible. (There are A LOT.) That said, the day-long adventure we were able to fit into our short itinerary was beyond worth it. Since our drive was only one day, with the daylight in short supply, we had a pretty packed schedule. While there is still SO much more to explore along our path, I have to say I’m pretty impressed by what we packed into the day.

Some of the amazing highlights:

  • Iceland is known for its sheep, and relatedly, its wool. On my initial layover in Iceland, I had the chance to peruse some of the beautiful wool products in the airport shops. On this trip, I wanted to visit the birthplace of Iceland’s wool industry, the Álafoss Wool Store. Located a short drive out of Reykjavik in Mosfellsbær, this company has been around since 1896 and continues to grace Icelandic homes with all things wooly. Situated in an idyllic location, this original factory features the Álafoss waterfall and Varma River out back, both of which used to drive the mills of the original factory. Present-day, this flagship location houses a wool store as well as a museum-like setting featuring displays and old knitting machinery from the original factory. Well worth a wooly visit!
  • Our ultimate destination for the day was the black-sand Reynisfjara beach. Racing against the setting sun, we got there just in time to see an amazing sunset and gorgeous beach scene. Located in central South Iceland and part of the Katla UNESCO Global Geopark, this beach is the stuff of fairytales. Sporting beautiful views, rugged cliffs, caves, petrified trolls, and a black-sand and pebble beach, it’s a don’t-miss destination! (Safety bulletin: Sneaker waves are real! Don’t turn your back on the ocean. Don’t do it. The signs are there for a reason.)
  • Back to the topic of wool, we also visited the little village of Vik i Myrdal, located just around the bend from Reynisfjara beach. Not only is there a huge Icewear outlet store, they also have the Katla Woolen Knitting Factory to fill all your wooly needs. The village itself is fairly small, but apparently has enough lodging to support the scientists studying the area as well as tourists. The town only has 300 residents, but 1400 rooms! (Sidenote: If you’re looking for an Icelandic mystery/drama about an ongoing volcanic eruption in the Vik area, check out Katla on Netflix. In classic Icelandic form, it’s fairly dark, but definitely highlights this part of Iceland.)
  • The road trip itself was a huge part of the adventure. Around every turn, there seemed to be a waterfall, and around the next bend, a sweeping glacier. One of the waterfalls we stopped at, the Seljalandsfoss was breathtakingly beautiful. And featured a cute little snack shack and gift shop! (Also in the area and a stop for my next trip is the Skogafoss waterfall.)

Another epic adventure we took on our last trip was to explore the Golden Circle. If you only have a couple of days in Iceland, do the Golden Circle tour. Full stop. We booked a big-bus tour via Icelandair to explore it on our last trip, and it was worth every second on the bus. On a future summer visit, I’d like to rent a car and explore the route at my leisure.

The Golden Circle route starts just outside of Reykjavik and just off the aforementioned Ring Road/Route 1. The tour we were on specifically hit up all the key points along the Golden Circle route. The first stop was at the amazing Friðheimar Greenhouse. Featuring a spectacular tomato greenhouse, a restaurant, bees, horses, and the best bloody Mary I’ve ever had, it was an excellent way to start the day. There was just something magical about arriving in the chilly pre-dawn (aka: 10am) and entering the lush, fragrant world of the greenhouse. Big sigh.

After fortifying ourselves with all things tomato, the next stop on the tour was the Geysir geothermal area, featuring the Strokkur Geysir and Geysir Center. (The center also includes a hotel, camping, spa, golf course, store, gift shop, and restaurant) While we did get to explore the area and take in some spectacular geyser displays, there is SO much more to experience in the vicinity. The one downfall of doing a tour is being at the mercy of the tour’s timetable. I can’t wait to revisit this area and take my time discovering the amazing surroundings.

If you’re a waterfall chaser like me, Iceland is the place to be. The most specific place to be, if you enjoy waterfalls and Iceland, is at the mind-blowingly beautiful Gullfoss Waterfall. Located in the Golden Circle, and a tour centerpiece, the epic waterfall is simply extraordinary. It’s no wonder Iceland is such a land of fairytales with otherworldly beauty like Gullfoss. I easily could’ve stood staring at those falls all day long. Granted, it was incredibly windy and very cold, with icy slivers blowing in our eyes, but it sure was spectacular. Go there!

The final stop on our Golden Circle tour was Thingvellir National Park. Very appropriately designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this sprawling park is awe-inspiring. Straddling the North-American and Eurasian tectonic plates, the area is an ever-shifting thing of beauty and wonder. (The plates are moving apart at approximately 2.5cm a year!) A simple stroll down any of the very accessible walking paths or hiking trails takes you next to, across, and around deep fissures, fascinating geologic striations, and the rugged waterscapes of the Öxará river. Should you be looking for means of transportation beyond walking or hiking, consider riding on horseback or snorkeling and diving between the continents.

Thingvellir is also a key location in the history and development of Iceland. Beginning in 930 CE through 1798 CE, the area was home to the yearly, open-air Althing assembly. In one of the world’s earliest parliamentary representations, inhabitants from across Iceland would gather for two weeks to settle disputes and agree upon governing. There are still remnants of the booths used during the assemblies and a millennia’s worth of human endeavors in the area.

Bottom line, no trip to Iceland would be complete without a tour of the Golden Circle. It is sometimes the case when arriving at the most-amazing-tourist-destination ever, it’s an overcrowded letdown. This applies to nowhere within the Golden Circle – and nowhere I’ve visited in all of Iceland, for that matter. Even if you only have a day, make the effort to visit the treasures of the Golden Circle. You won’t be sorry, but like me, might be a little sad you only had a day to explore their beauty.

In addition to further exploring all of the previously mentioned areas, including snorkeling between the continents, here are a few more of my Future Icelandic Road Trip Bucket List items:

  • Seeing the Northern Lights is amazing. Viewing them while camping out in a clear bubble yurt? YES, PLEASE. The ultimate Icelandic camping experience, in my opinion.
  • I want to POKE LAVA WITH A STICK. While this is a general bucket list goal, I would love to do it in Iceland. Yes, the stick would need to be long, but where there’s a lava will, there’s a lava way. Relatedly, I want to spend much more time checking out the volcano and glacier scene in Iceland.
  • PUFFINS!! To date, I have yet to see a puffin in Iceland. Where are all the puffins?? Granted, my visits haven’t been during puffin season, but still. (Sidebar: I never want to eat puffin. Or horse. Or whale. All are actually on menus in Iceland.)

Pro tip: There are many amazing destinations to explore on your Icelandic adventure. If your stay is short, tour operators can be very helpful in getting you exactly where you need to go, in an expedited fashion. Meandering about is always lovely, but if you’re short on time, it’s best to get right to it. There are many tour outfits, but I’ve had good luck with Aurora Reykjavik – The Northern Lights Center. In general, look for tours with reasonable cancellation policies and re-books if you don’t see something on your first outing, like the Northern Lights.

There are many areas of Iceland I’ve yet to explore. Luckily, my travel pal, Kristen, was able to cover a few such areas on this trip. As I had several museum and foodie adventures planned for this adventure, I had to live vicariously through Kristen on her exploits. The Westfjords part of Iceland is filled with epic wonder and Kristen did a fine job of taking it all in. Well, as much as she was able to do in a day or so. I’m tellin’ ya, a several week’s long road trip is clearly in order. During the summer months.

Some highlights from Kristen’s adventures:

  • Kristen found an excellent, all-day tour of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula in west Iceland. The tour included the iconic, highly photogenic Kirkjufell and Snaefellsjokull National Park, along with a home-cooked dinner at a local’s home. If you happen to be a fan of Game of Thrones, Kirkjufell, or the Mountain Shaped Like an Arrowhead, was featured in seasons 6 and 7, near “the Wall.”
  • Kristen is an expert equestrian. Since I am not, I left the horse-riding adventures to her. I love horses and riding, but I prefer to be the one riding at the back of the group, taking my time. On this trip, Kristen took her riding skills to the Ishestar Horse Riding Center to enjoy Iceland from horseback. Important note: Icelandic horses are smaller than western horses, but they ARE NOT PONIES. Do not call them ponies. You’ve been warned.

On a sidenote to adventuring in the wilds of Iceland, I was happy to learn there are no animal predators in Iceland. The Arctic Fox is their only native land mammal, and it dines mainly on smaller creatures. The Gyrfalcon , the largest Falcon in the world and national bird of Iceland, rules the skies, but unless you’re a smaller creature you’re likely good. There are also NO snakes, mosquitos, and only one type of wasp. YEAH! But there are midges. (Remind me to tell you the story of how I was nearly consumed by midges in Scotland one summer. Ugh.) Iceland also has non-native mink, rabbit, reindeer, and obviously sheep. And a lot of city cats in Reykjavik. (Roaming around in shops, popping out of alleys, lounging under benches, and featured in the holiday Yule Cat displays…)

While Kristen was exploring the beauties of West Iceland and communing with the ponies-not-ponies, I decided to take in some of the museums. And continue enjoying Reykjavik’s food and drink scene, which to some degree did, of course, involve hotdogs. Those hotdogs aren’t gonna eat themselves, after all…

The first museum I visited was the ultra-cool Reykjavik Art Museum. (Free entrance with a City Card) They were featuring an exhibit of work by prolific Icelandic artist, Erró, among additional, well-curated exhibits of Icelandic artists. The Erró exhibit features many of his provocative pieces, which often encompass a dark sense of political humor and comic-book style of graphic art. His artwork can also be found complimenting the walls of the Keflavik Airport terminal.

One of my very favorite things to do is to wander around a museum for the first time, with no agenda. The architecture, light, and general peacefulness of this museum was absolutely perfect for my maiden voyage. Icelandic art is truly unique; Sometimes a bit dark, sometimes a bit quirky, and sometimes hopeful and full of light. The Reykjavik Art Museum certainly presented Icelandic art with great compliment. I happened to be visiting on a perfectly sunny winter day, and the way the light played through different areas of the museum was art in and of itself.

Next stop on my museum adventure, was the truly unique, one-of-a-kind, Icelandic Phallological Museum. (Entry fee discount with City Card) You read it correctly: A museum dedicated to all shapes, varieties, sizes, and origins of penises. Including and dedicated to all species, the displays are truly fascinating, and also feature some very interesting and inspired art. Begun from a headmaster’s colleague sending him a bull pizzle as a joke, this family-owned museum has now grown to house the world’s largest collection of penises.

I don’t happen to have one myself, but roughly one in two species on the planet do. Why not have a museum dedicated to the appendage? All manner of mammal penises are featured, including a sperm whale. Yikes! The museum features a scientific approach, with the displays being well-presented and documented. Everything is very tastefully done, with a touch of humor here and there, but it’s family-friendly and well worth a visit. Bonus points if you hit up the café for an order of Belgian-style penis waffles (savory OR sweet) and a tasty beverage. (Sidenote: I was disappointed to not see hotdogs on the menu. A major missed-opportunity, in my opinion. Come on.)

In addition to my adventures in penis land, I also visited a few other amazing museums:

  • The National Gallery of Iceland was just a few blocks from where we were staying, and it was a beautiful walk through the snowy neighborhood streets. The exhibits were very modern and absolutely quirky, in the loveliest of ways. The snarky, talking rocks of Egill Sæbjörnsson’s The Egg or the Hen, Us or Them were my favorite, but his troll-life exhibit was pretty amazing as well. (All part of the Egill Sæbjörnsson and Infinite Friends of the Universe exhibit) Don’t miss a visit to this excellent museum. (Closed Mondays in the winter)
  • I wanted to see the House of Collections, sister to the National Gallery of Iceland, but time was not on our side. The beautiful location, originally serving as the National Library, is now featuring additional treasures from the National Gallery collection. Next visit!
  • Host to the required COVID tests needed to return home on our last trip, this trip’s visit to the beautiful Harpa Concert Hall was much more enjoyable. We caught the very unique Circuleight installation, but Harpa Concert Hall most regularly hosts all manner of live entertainment and conferences. Additionally, they have a very stylish café and gift shop. Located right on the water, this striking, architectural gem is a must-see spot. (Also a great place to check out the Northern Lights. More on that later!)

This is just a small cross-section of museums in the Reykjavik area. Be sure to check out the list on the City Card site as well as the Visit Iceland site. I’ve earmarked many museums for exploration on my next Icelandic excursion. (Iceland has 266 museums across the country!) (Sidenote: If you happen to stop by the National Gallery, be sure to check out the amazing amount of birdies at Tjörnin Pond, directly across the street. Ducks, geese, swans, Arctic terns, and more! It’s a lovely pond and when it freezes over, it also becomes a spot for ice-skating and hockey.)

Alrighty, it’s time to talk more about… FOOD! This obviously includes more hotdog chat, but there were indeed a few other Icelandic specialties I was interested in trying. I’d initially planned on hitting up a Reykjavik-based food tour, but I ended up striking out on my own. Next trip! (Pro tip: Local food tours are a great way to broadly experience a city’s cuisine, especially when traveling solo.)

While venturing out in search of HOTDOG #4, I had a nerdy, serendipitous experience along the way. I was walking towards the epic Hallgrimskirkja Church, in pursuit of the epic Víkinga Pylsur hotdog stand, when I came upon a street named “Baldursgata.” While it actually translates as “Baldur’s Street,” I couldn’t help but proclaim that I’d just found the actual Baldur’s Gate! (For further reference, Baldr is the son of Norse god, Odin.) As I spend my days nerdily toiling away in the video games industry, it was pretty cool to stumble upon such a find. If I traveled down this street, would I find myself transported to another world? MAYBE! Next trip. I had hotdogs to find in this world.

And find those hotdogs, and the stunning Hallgrimskirkja Church, I did! Both offering completely different experiences, it was extra epic to experience them together. The hotdog was delicious, and I plan to go back and try all of their hotdog creations. (Pulled pork hotdog anyone?!) The church, which I’ve now had the pleasure to experience in many weathers and times of day, was epic as usual. Regardless of your religious leanings, be sure to visit the church and, in the least, marvel at its beautiful architecture and stunning nave. (Check out that organ!) If you’re feeling sprite, head up to the tower for what is surely an amazing view of the city. (I wasn’t feeling the necessary level of sprightliness on this journey. Full from hotdogs. Next visit!)

Continuing on the topic of epic food experiences, I feel the need to dedicate a few paragraphs to one of the top meals of my life. Sometimes you stumble upon something that changes your life, like the time I accidentally found The National Gallery in London because the Tube was way too crowded and I had to exit – and breathe. And thereby found some of my most favorite paintings on display! But I digress… This particular life-changing event was the result of random wanderings around Reykjavik, and the realization my hotdog had worn off…

The well-reviewed Food Cellar was on my list of restaurants to try, but I hadn’t yet visited. As I walked up to the charming entrance, I noted the restaurant hours on the door. They opened for dinner at 5 o’clock and it was… 5 o’clock on the dot! In I went and looked around for staff, but to my dismay, no one appeared to be around. After going back outside and double-checking the hours, I returned inside and the maître d’ had magically appeared! Upon confirming I didn’t have reservations, he said since I was a party of one, they could fit me in before things started to get busy. Solo dining for the win!

For the first half hour or so, I was the only diner in this very lovely, cellar-level restaurant, and was absolutely pampered by the staff. Housed in the 160-year-old Geysir Building, the Food Cellar pays tribute to its past as well as supports the future of modern Icelandic dining. Featuring an amazing menu of local seafood, dishes range from the classic seafood soup, to glazed lamb, and grilled lobster tails. For the record, their Sailor’s Fish Soup was sublime. I could’ve eaten bowl after bowl and come back for more. DELICIOUS! The soup, followed by pan-fried char and dessert, with top-notch wine-service for each course, will be a very hard meal to match. (Pro tip: Try one of their fixed-prix “Secrets of the Cellar” meals with selected wines. I went for the “Seafood Feast” option.)

Combined with the wonderful service, great cocktails, and relaxing atmosphere, the Food Cellar is a Reykjavik must-visit. As I left wanting more, music from the cocktail bar, being played on their 1880 Bösendorfer grand piano, serenaded me out the door. Simply dreamy. I can’t wait to return!

On the topic of food and drink, it’s time to cover a bit about the beverage scene in Iceland. Alcohol was somewhat off the menu and didn’t fully return to public reach until 1989! Prohibition began in 1915, but wine was legalized in 1922, and all alcohol except BEER?? was brought back in 1935. (March 1st is now celebrated as national Beer Day.) Since then, the drink scene has grown to include many bars, pubs, and some very unique beverages.

On my most recent visit, I stopped in at Dillion Whiskey Bar and had an excellent time sampling local whiskies and more. They even had my favorite Scottish whisky, The Classic Laddie! Set upstairs from the restaurant portion of one of Reykjavik’s oldest wooden homes, the bar features a huge selection of whiskies as well as live music, and even a whiskey school! I’m betting their students don’t need much prodding to do their homework…

Some tasty Icelandic spirits to try on your next Icelandic adventure:

  • I tried the Flóki Single Malt Sherry Cask finish whiskey while at Dillion’s and it was excellent. On my next Icelandic adventure, I plan to hit up a tour at the Eimverk Distillery to learn more about their Flóki Icelandic Whiskey brand. (The distillery is located 15 minutes outside of downtown Reykjavik – appointment required. Book on website.)
  • By far the most popular spirit found in Iceland, the caraway-infused Brennivin is known as the original Icelandic spirit. Typically served in small, thimble-like shot glasses, it also makes for a variety of very tasty, unique cocktails. I like it chilled, served in one of the adorable, thimble-like shot glasses.
  • The 64°Reykjavik Distillery is a family-run, micro-distillery located in Reykjavik, using methods presented to the distillery by a local elf named Benedikt. True story. The Rhubarb and Crowberry liqueurs are fantastic, as are their gins and aquavits. Also, their recipes come from the elves. TRUE STORY.
  • Not to be confused with my favorite Icelandic musician, the Björk liqueur from Foss Distillery is absolutely unique and delicious. Björk, meaning “birch” in English, is one of Iceland’s most prevalent trees (and musicians), and provides the essence of this delicious liqueur. (Sidenote: I was dealing with an earache when we visited the Blue Lagoon spa on our last visit, so I stayed inside and checked out the lovely bar and café. It is there where I serendipitously discovered Björk liqueur. Next trip, I’d like to enjoy Björk liqueur while hanging out with Björk the musician. Dreams can come true.)
  • Should you be interested in drinking in tribute to the Norse gods, check out Reykjavik Spirits and their Viking Schnapps line. Between Thor (Goldenroot), Loki (Dulse & Blueberry), and Freya (Angelica Root), you’ll be transported to a beverage Valhalla. Their Reykjavik Pink Gin is quite tasty as well.
  • The father-daughter run Og natura distillery makes delicious gin and liqueurs as well as wine and beer. (Iceland’s first winery!) Their gins are fantastic, and they also make the very unique Volcanic Shot. As I love licorice, I find this “hot and spicy” licorice liqueur delicious, and I wish I could find it in the States.

Regarding the food and drink scene of Reykjavik and Iceland on the whole, I’ve barely scratched the surface. I’m going to have to return many more times to feel like I’ve done it justice. (Oh nooo! More foodie adventures!) However, I do feel like I’ve been able to visit some pretty delicious spots thus far. A few details about my favorites to date:

  • I’m not the biggest fan of making breakfast on a regular weekday, but I’m a BIG fan of getting breakfast every day while on holiday. One of my first breakfasts of this trip was at the very cool Prikid Kaffihus (c. 1951) Listed as the oldest café in Reykjavik, Prikid Kaffihus features great food, great atmosphere, live music, and great service. It’s a fine place from which to start your adventures.
  • We were lucky to be in Iceland to celebrate Cream Bun Day (Bolludagur). (Monday before Ash Wednesday and the first day of Lent.) We went to the BakaBaka Bakery & Restaurant (directly next door and up from the entrance to the Icelandic Punk Museum) and enjoyed some very delicious cream buns. They also serve a tasty looking full menu throughout the day. (Sidenote: If you’re not full from all the cream buns, be sure to celebrate Blast Day (Sprengidagur) the following day!)
  • Sometimes you just really need fried rice and Peking duck, wherever you might be in the world. We hit up the Shanghai Restaurant for just that. Yum!
  • Iceland is big on food halls and rightly so. These collections of restaurant stalls contain very tasty, conveniently located options. Be sure to check them out whenever you see them! On this trip, we visited the Pósthús Foodhall and enjoyed a meal from the excellent Finsen restaurant. Everything we ordered was delicious and dining in the public dining hall was fun!
  • Who doesn’t love balls of fried dough, covered with your favorite toppings?? If that sounds tasty, and how can it not, stop in at Loo Koo Mas and enjoy! They specialize in Greek, handmade donuts, and also have ice cream and an assortment of hot beverages. I LOVE their classic donuts coated in honey and sesame seeds. SO GOOD!!
  • If waffles are your thing, head to the supremely adorable Saeta Husid for delicious “bubble” waffles, bagels, and their very unique rolled ice cream. Honestly, this place is too cute and tasty for words.
  • We stopped in at the very cool  Bastard Brew & Food on our last visit for a delicious meal of reindeer burgers. They also feature BBQ, non-reindeer burgers, flatbreads, a great beer selection, and cocktails.
  • 12 Tonar is a very cool record store (yes, actual records!) and café. Located in downtown, it’s a great place to stop in and peruse the licorice donuts and just chill. (While “licorice donuts” is an old-skool term for records, I wonder if they make actual licorice donuts in Iceland. Must investigate.)
  • On our first visit, we arrived on Christmas Eve and needed a place to celebrate. VOX Brasserie & Bar, located in the Hilton Reykjavik Nordica hotel, was the place for such holiday cheer. We enjoyed a lovely buffet in their main dining room, filled with delicious holiday fare. Continuing the hotel-based holiday dining spree, we enjoyed a tasty, fixed-prix Christmas dinner at downtown’s Geiri Smart, located in the Hilton Canopy hotel.
  • Reykjavik is big on ice cream and there are many excellent options. Stop in at Eldur og Ís for delicious ice cream, crepes, and coffee! Located on the famous Rainbow Street in downtown Reykjavik.
  • I basically had my nose pressed up against the window on our last Reykjavik visit, but the store hours and COVID restrictions never seemed to cooperate. This time, however, I was able to enjoy The Sandholt bakery in all of it’s baked-goods glory. WOW! Everything looked amazing and the pastries I tried were fantastic. Next time I’ll be dining in and enjoying one of the amazing breakfast plates I kept seeing come out of the kitchen.
  • I was still full from HOTDOGS #6 and #7, but we still made a stop at Salka Valka for dinner. They had lobster soup on the menu and I’m glad I gave it a try. Delicious! Kristen enjoyed some pretty tasty looking pizza and we both walked out stuffed.
  • There are SO many foodie adventures yet to enjoy, but I have a list building for next time. One such place is the very eclectic-looking Lemmy. Located in one of Reykjavik’s oldest houses and named after famed Motörhead bassist, Lemmy, it features food, nostalgia, music, and drinks. What more could you want? Next visit!

Continuing on with my hotdog adventures, I mentioned HOTDOGS #6 and #7 above. Before we get to that tasty accident, I’ll briefly cover HOTDOG #5.

I’d been trying to visit Pítubarinn, a popular hotdog stand in downtown, but wasn’t having any luck. There are only a few tiny tables inside, and the line was always long. I tried a few times, but never did get to stop. In its place, I tried a little spot along one of the shopping streets in downtown. I’m not a fan of giving negative reviews or bad-mouthing a place, so I’m not going to name names. I will say, however, the place-that-shall-not-be-named had a questionable smell, was very unorganized inside, and the hotdog itself was far from excellent. I ate it, but with great skepticism. I’m not a quitter.

The aforementioned HOTDOGS #6 and #7, on the other hand, were a delicious success. I’d returned to the OG Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur stand for guaranteed hotdog glory. Not only did I get the hotdog I’d ordered, they ACCIDENTALLY gave me a second. (Accidentally, I swear!) Since Kristen was standing next to me when I ordered, they assumed I wanted two hotdogs. While they actually only charged me for one, they handed me two! OH NO! As Kristen doesn’t eat hotdogs (the horror!), and I don’t like to waste food, I took one for the team. I ate BOTH hotdogs. You’re welcome. CRISIS AVERTED. To celebrate my triumph, I later hit up the Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur counter at the 10-11 store (Laugavegur location – open 24/7, hotdogs daily from 10am – 10pm) to pick up a hoodie, as well as some Icelandic hotdog mustard.

Alas, all of the amazing food, art, and scenery, finally brought us to our last night in Reykjavik. Since I still hadn’t seen a proper showing of the Northern Lights, we headed down to the Harpa Concert Hall to try our space-light luck. (Kristen made a solo trek down to Harpa the night before and did indeed see some lights!) We’d checked out the light forecast and were hopeful. After donning our cold weather gear, we hit the snowy streets of Reykjavik and headed down towards the water at around 11pm.

Upon arriving at Harpa, we noticed many other space-light pilgrims were already lined up along the shoreline path. Not more than a couple of minutes after we found our own spot, we noticed the first wispy “clouds” forming overhead. We immediately whipped out our phones and fired up our camera functions. And lo and behold, there they were! The Northern Lights, in all their space-light beauty!

To actually see the lights in person was truly an otherworldly experience. Pictures and video are great, but to see the lights in person (via a lens, of course) was one of the coolest nights of my life. The blue-green, undulating formations were mesmerizing, and I couldn’t get enough. It was freezing cold, and my hands kept going stiff when I’d take off my gloves to use the camera, but whatever. Combined with the crowd’s buzzy excitement and bonding over the sights, it was like nothing I’d ever experienced. I’d nearly get frostbite all over again just to see the show. Next visit!

Space-light follow-up: I miraculously had the opportunity to see another display of the Northern Lights from my home in Washington state. For a few days in May, there was a very strong solar storm which provided great viewing across many of the upper states. It was SO amazing to see them twice in the space of a few months. Additionally, as opposed to the blue-green display in Iceland, this display favored vibrant pinks and purples. AMAZING!!

Seeing the Northern Lights was such a wonderful way to wrap up our most recent adventures in Iceland. On the last trip, during our final walk around town, we ran into a former coworker from Washington state! Half-way around the world, on a random city street, we ran into a friend. On this trip, while we didn’t get to meet up, another friend was in the area! It’s truly a small, small world and not only is Iceland the land of fire, ice, and hotdogs, it’s the land of friends! New friends, old friends, and future friends, the world has so many wonderful relationships to build upon. Keep your eyes and your hearts open.

The only thing left for us to do on this particular trip was to make our way back to the airport via the Flybus and do a final shopping spree at the duty-free store. That Bjork liqueur and Flóki whiskey wasn’t gonna buy itself… And also… I needed to procure HOTDOG #8! WOO!! Okay, and also maybe a delicious, and much deserved Pink Drink from the airport bar. (Gordon’s Pink Gin, tonic, and strawberry – not to be confused with the Starbucks “pink drink.”)

It seems I can’t leave the Keflavik Airport without first hanging out with my TSA friends. Just as was the case on my last return trip, I got pulled aside by the US immigration patrol for a “random” search and interview. Sigh. Of course I complied, and of course nothing was uncovered, but it certainly wasn’t fun – or appreciated. I’m hoping the third time is the no-interview charm when returning home from my next visit. And I didn’t even try to bring back hotdogs!! I deserved that stiff beverage afterwards.

After enjoying my beverage and a hang with the troll in the gift shop, it was time to make our way to the gate. It amazes me how much we were able to pack into the week, including the number of HOTDOGS I enjoyed. As I walked dreamily through the airport, I was already thinking of what adventures my next Icelandic visit would feature. Could I finally poke lava with a stick? Would I get to experience more than six hours of daylight? Would it finally be possible to bring back Icelandic hotdogs?? There are so many possible adventures in this magical country to experience, and I can’t wait to see where I end up next visit. And see how many hotdogs I’m able to enjoy…

Until next time, vertu blessaður and safe travels!

Adventure through the land of fire and ice – and hotdogs – with my custom SPOTIFY PLAYLIST

  • I Sing I Swim – Seabear (from The Ghost That Carried Us Away)
  • Color Decay – Júníus Meyvant (from Floating Harmonies)
  • Way Down We Go – KALEO (from A/B)
  • Immortal – Arca (from Pixel Heart)
  • Heimförin – Ásgeir (from Dýrð í dauðaþögn)
  • HyperballadBjörk (from Post)
  • ÆvintýrSóley (from Ask the Deep)
  • WaterfallVök (from Circles)
  • OralBjörk, Rosalía (from Oral)
  • Think About ThingsDaði Freyr (from Think About Things)
  • Volcano Man – Will Ferrell, My Marianne (from Eurovision Song Contest: The Story of Fire Saga)
  • Look At the Light – Sin Fang (from Flowers)
  • Somewhere – Pascal Pinon (from Twosomeness)
  • Ég vil fá mér kærustu – Hjálmar (from Hjálmar)
  • All The Pretty Girls – KALEO (from A/B)
  • Sunny RoadEmilíana Torrini (from Fisherman’s Woman)
  • Mar – GDRN, Moses Hightower (from Mar)
  • Hoppípolla – Sigur Rós (from Takk…)
  • Ég er Kominn heim – Óðinn Valdimarsson (from Er völlur grær)
  • Old Skin – Arnór Dan, Ólafur Arnalds (from For Now I Am Winter)
  • Crystals – Of Monsters and Men (from Beneath the Skin)
  • Engin landamæri – Atli Örvarsson, Sing Fang (from Flóra)
  • The Sky Is Painted Gray – Ásgeir (from The Sky Is Painted Gray)
  • 10 YearsDaði Freyr (from 10 Years)
  • Jaja Ding Dong – Will Ferrell, My Marianne (from Eurovision Song Contest: The Story of Fire Saga)
Hotdog!
I made this particular hotdog in second grade. It’s been a lifelong love affair with the hotdog…

More I Ate the State Adventures:

I Ate the State – Lewis County

Welcome back to the adventures of I Ate the State! It’s been a while and I’m happy to be back in the driver’s seat.

One of the two oldest counties in Washington, Lewis County is brimming with history and beauty. The indigenous peoples of the area have called it home for millennia, treasuring its bountiful resources. The beauty of the area encompasses epic mountains, winding rivers, and an ever-evolving volcanic legacy. The modern era hosts a central location for enjoying this history and beauty along with providing much opportunity for the future. Within what many see as a passing, often rainy section of the I-5 corridor between Canada and Oregon, lies a fascinating part of the state waiting to be explored and appreciated.

Originally named Vancouver County in 1845, it was renamed in 1849 after Lewis and Clark explorer, Merriweather Lewis. Suffice it to say, getting to Lewis County isn’t quite the expedition it once may have been. The aforementioned I-5 corridor is likely the most popular way to get to the area with mountainous US-12 and SR-6 from the coastal areas also being well-traveled routes. Since I am presently located in the greater Seattle area, I typically take I-5, but if you’re coming over from east of the Cascades, US-12 is both beautiful and efficient. US-101 along the coast to SR-6 can also make for a lovely excursion into Lewis County. (Pro tip: If you’re coming over US-12 in the winter months, check the pass reports and consider using I-90 as an alternate route.)

Scenic Lewis County
Welcome to scenic Lewis County!

If you’re heading south on I-5 like me, Centralia is the first main city in Lewis County you’ll find. Originally named Centerville and founded by African-American, George Washington, Centralia is the largest city in Lewis County and was incorporated in 1886. Centralia owes much of its success to the foresight and generosity of George Washington, the only African-American to found a town in the northwest. Along with his wife, Mary Jane, Mr. Washington was instrumental in creating the town core as well as generously helping struggling townsfolk during financial and social crises of the day, in spite of racial prejudices.

Having evolved into a more peaceful burg in present times, Centralia experienced its fair share of havoc during its formative years. Check out these areas on your next visit to Centralia to learn more about the history of the area:

  • The downtown area is a designated historic district and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. In addition to being very scenic and charming, it is very walkable. Hit up some of Historic Centralia by foot and take a stroll through time.
  • Visit George Washington Park (c. 1881) in the town square to pay tribute to Centralia’s founding father. The park hosts local events and is also home to the Centralia Timberland Library (c. 1913) and features several statues, including the WW I memorial The Sentinel, by Alonzo Victor Lewis (c. 1924) and statues of town founders, George and Mary Jane Washington.
  • In 1919, the Centralia Massacre occurred between members of the American Legion and Industrial Workers of the World (“Wobblies”) during an Armistice Day parade.  As a result of the bloody fight, six people died, many were wounded, and trials and prison sentences followed thereafter. The location of the conflict took place at 807 N Tower Ave in downtown Centralia.
  • For a glimpse into Centralia in the early 1900s, pop into the Centralia Train Station in downtown Centralia. Built by Northern Pacific Railway in 1912 and now an Amtrak station, it is still serving travelers today.
  • The grand Centralia Fox Theatre (c. 1930), a gem in the downtown corridor, has played host to theatre, cinema, and more during its near 100-year run. This historic theatre is currently being renovated and will hopefully again shine its stage lights.
  • Just a short drive from downtown, head to Fort Borst Park for a look at the historic Borst Home, (c. early 1860s) the blockhouse, (c. 1856) and one-room school replica. In addition to a look back into Centralia’s past, this large park also features modern park amenities as well as sports facilities and a rhododendron garden. It is located at the confluence of the Chehalis and Skookumchuck rivers.
  • Paying tribute to the history of Centralia’s working ladies, the unique Shady Lady Bordello Museum can be visited in the upstairs area of the expansive Shady Lady Antiques. Located in the downtown area, the Shady Lady is a great place to start your exploration of Centralia’s downtown Antique stores.

To set yourself up for exploring Centralia, you’ll need a good place to rest up and refuel. Originally a men’s hotel by the name of The Oxford Hotel (c. 1908 – on the National Register of Historic Places), the Olympic Club Saloon & Hotel now opens its doors to all. Operated by the McMenamins family, the hotel has retained its original grandeur and provides an enjoyable journey into Centralia’s past. The Olympic Club Saloon & Hotel is a great place to stay or to grab a tasty meal. Saddle up to the historic bar and grab one of their namesake beverages, play a game of pool, check out the movie theatre, relax on their outdoor patio – and eat some tots!

Sidebar: Their Cajun tots are delicious. I live next door to the McMenamins Anderson School and it’s dangerous living so close to delicious tots. DANGEROUS.) It should also be mentioned that they offer other delicious fare as well. True story! (Important note: February 2nd is National Tater Tot Day. Just sayin’.)

Since 1983, the McMenamins family has been rescuing and transforming northwest gems and now has over 60 historic locations throughout Oregon and Washington. With each location paying homage to its original purpose and local legends, you can enjoy a great stay and learn about the history of the area. Check out their Passport program which rewards guests for stays and purchases at McMenamins properties. (Including free and/or discounted tater tots.)

If you find your diet requires more than just tater tots (Wait. WHAT??), there are many great dining spots in the Centralia area. Here are a few options to help curb your appetite:

  • Serving Centralia since 1973, Country Cousin offers classic diner fare including breakfast, lunch, and more. Open daily from 7am – 8pm. Don’t’ forget to stop into their “Country Store” gift shop for a piece of country kitsch.
  • A question I will continue to ask is, “Why isn’t there a Burgerville closer to the Seattle area? WHY??” But whenever I’m in the Centralia area, I love their signature marionberry shakes, Walla Walla onion rings, and delicious burgers. YUM! Don’t miss a stop at this northwest institution. (Dear Burgerville, why aren’t you in the Seattle-area? WHY??)
  • While I haven’t yet visited the Berry Fields Café, it comes highly recommended by a longtime local. Their food looks very tasty and I’m looking forward to stopping by during my next Centralia visit. Serving breakfast and lunch, in a very charming location, they’re open daily from 7am to 5pm.
  • Not only does Dick’s Brewing Company feature tasty brews, they handmake and smoke delicious sausage! Hit up their tasting room on Friday & Saturday from 3pm – 7:30pm (+21) to sample the suds and don’t miss grabbing some sausage at their store, NW Sausage & Deli. (Open Monday thru Saturday, 9:30am – 5pm, until 9pm on Fri/Sat. Closed Sunday.)
  • Talk about a classic! Don’t miss Bill and Bea’s Café for a delicious step back in time. Featuring hand-pressed burgers, shakes, breakfast fare and more, this local gem is open daily from 8am to 8pm. (11am on Sundays) Located two blocks west of I-5, off of exit 82. Best Burger in Lewis Co (‘20, ‘21)
  • For a large selection of handmade pizzas, sandwiches, salads, and beer on tap, head to the Tiki Tap House. Open Tuesday thru Saturday, 11:30am – 9pm. (Closed Sunday/Monday)

Big on celebrating the history and bounty of the area, Centralia has several things to keep you entertained, informed, and full throughout the year. A few ideas for your next visit:

  • Located all around downtown historic Centralia, the yearly Antique Fest is not to be missed. The entire downtown core participates and it’s a great time for exploring old and new. The event also features a tasty selection of food trucks and vendors. August 2-4, 2024
  • Who doesn’t love a state fair? Fried foods of every kind, rides, exhibits, animals, music, and more! Every August, the Centralia area gears up for the SW Washington State Fair located conveniently in between Centralia and nearby Chehalis. FRIED FOODS! (August 13th – 18th, 2024)
  • If you’re looking to repel a vampire, improve your kissing game, or maybe make a better spaghetti sauce, head to the Washington State Garlic Fest and stock up! (Located at the fairgrounds, end of August 2024)
  • Located at Pine Street Plaza in downtown Centralia, the Centralia Farmer’s Market features a nice variety of local produce and artisan wares. Operating April thru September from 11am – 5pm. (Possibly into October, weather pending) Be sure to visit their Holiday Market on Fridays thru Sundays, after Thanksgiving thru mid-December, for holiday gifts and treats. (Fri/Sat – 10am to 5pm, Sun – 10am to 4pm)
  • For an experience in all things farming, head to Seedpod Farm. Located on the banks of the Skookumchuck River, Seedpod Farms plays hosts to animals, bees, gardens, crops, and more. Sign up for one of their hosted garden walks, check out The Keystone Labyrinth, and learn about the opportunities associated with their CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) farm share. Don’t miss picking up a flower bouquet from their seasonal flower patch. (Farm visits, classes, and walks are by appointment only) 

Just south of Centralia on I-5, the charming town of Chehalis awaits your visit. There are several exits leading directly off of I-5, but if you happen to be coming from (or going to) Centralia, the Jackson Highway is a great side route to explore. Not only will you avoid the often busy I-5, you’ll get a scenic view of the area. If you happen to be coming north on I-5, you can access this route off I-5 near Gee Cee’s Truck stop. (I-5 Exit 57) It shortly merges with SR-505 near Toledo, passes by Lewis and Clark State Park near US-12 and then parallels I-5 up to Chehalis. Heading towards Centralia, it then turns into N National Ave which splits into N National Ave and NE Kresky Ave which take you to and from Centralia. Whew!

Originally called Saundersville as of 1858 with the establishment of a post office by Schuyler Saunders, it became Chehalis in 1870. Saunders, along with wife Eliza Barrett, moved to the area around 1850. Eliza became quite an important figure in the development of the area and surpassed her first husband Saunders in terms of local importance and character. Using her land gained through marriage to Saunders, she strategically assisted the expansion of the area and used her influence and wealth to create businesses, cultural pillars, and community. In addition to being married several times, which was unusual for the era, she didn’t adhere to the social norms of the day and largely contributed to establishing Chehalis as an important part in the development of Washington State.

While becoming the county seat in 1874, and being officially recognized as Chehalis in 1879, the area has long been home to the Confederated Tribes of the Chehalis Reservation, with their presence predating the town of Chehalis by many years and much history. With the Chehalis and Newaukum rivers converging near Chehalis, this strategic meeting has always provided an important bounty for the area of which the Chehalis tribes, known as the People of the Sands, have been essential stewards.

Trailhead
Near the Willapa Hills Trail Chehalis Trailhead

As you enter the downtown area, it’s easy to see how Chehalis looked in its early days. Many of the buildings in the downtown core are over 100 years old and sit on the National Register of Historic Places. The entire downtown district is in fact on the register. Just a quick drive around town will give you the stately Lewis Co Courthouse (c. 1927), the beautiful Chehalis Timberland Library (c. 1910), the cornerstone St. Helens Hotel (c. 1921), and many more interesting locations. If you’re in the mood to pep up your drive, head to the historic Hillside District and take a walk around John Dobson and McFadden Parks. The drive to get there involves some twisty turns and will take you by the Troop 373 and 7373 Scout Lodge (c. 1937), where you can catch the Dobson-McFadden walking trail, which connects the two parks.

For a more thorough take on the area, head to the Lewis Co Historical Museum and immerse yourself in local lore. Set in what was originally the Burlington Northern Depot (c. 1912), it hosts a great collection of the town’s history. It is also the start of the Historic Downtown Walking Tour should you want to get those steps in. Be sure to note the giant stump near the museum entry. It was originally cut down to accommodate an ultimately cancelled visit by President McKinley, but did host President Teddy Roosevelt in 1903, followed by future president William Howard Taft, and later, VP nominee, Franklin D. Roosevelt in 1920. (Open 10am – 4/5pm. Closed Sunday/Monday. Summer and winter hours vary.)

Adventure brings hunger. Hunger leads to hangry. Hangry leads to the dark side. Don’t let your hunger get the hangry point during your Chehalis journeys. There are some great spots to stop and feed the hangry while in the area. Here are some local favorites:

  • At the very top of my list is the amazing Shona’s Food Company. I would make the drive to Chehalis just to visit this place. Run by the lovely Shona, this delicious spot features foods from Shona’s American/British/Northern Ireland heritage, as well as hand-crafted cheese from the Black Sheep Creamery. The bap sandwiches… The desserts… The hand pies… SO DELICIOUS! (Tuesday – Friday, 6am – 3pm, Saturday, 6am – 5pm) Also in the same building and adjacent to Shona’s is the charming  Ewe and I. Sadly, I never learned to knit, but this place inspires me to fix that issue. (Tuesday – Saturday, 10am – 5pm. Closed Sunday/Monday.)
  • They offer reservations at the always busy Jeremy’s Farm to Table and I highly suggest you make some! Also featuring a market and fruit stand, this tasty spot features breakfast, lunch, dinner, music, and a generally very cool vibe. The market and fruit stand feature local produce, milk, cheese, eggs, meat, bread, etc. (Open Monday – Thursday, 10am – 9pm, Friday to 10pm, Saturday 8am – 10pm, Sunday to 8pm.)
  • While primarily a used book store, Shakespeare & Co. also sells take-away homemade soups on Wednesdays. This lovely spot is also a great place to pick up a good read. (Open Monday – Friday, 11am – 5pm, Saturday and Sunday, 10am, Sunday noon to 4:30.)
  • The classic Shire Bar & Bistro features steak, seafood, and bistro fare. Catering to the area for the past 20 years, this spot is a popular destination for a tasty night out. (Open Tuesday – Friday, 11:30am – 9pm, Saturday 5pm – 9pm. Closed Sunday/Monday)

The next part of Lewis County I’d planned to investigate was west of Chehalis, along SR-6 and towards Pe Ell. That said, on the way out of town and along the way, I found several spots well worth a visit:

  • The oldest, continually lived-in residence in Washington is the McFadden Log House (c. 1859), located in a quiet Chehalis neighborhood. It’s well worth checking out, but as it’s a private residence, you’ll need to do so from your car, as you slowly roll by. Just be cool. And respectful!
  • Stop by the expansive Veterans Memorial Museum, located on the outskirts of Chehalis for a well-curated look at military and veteran history. (Open Tuesday – Saturday, 10am – 5pm. Closed Sunday/Monday)
  • Just around the corner from the Veterans Memorial Museum, is the charming Chehalis-Centralia Railroad & Museum. It was unfortunately closed when I stopped by, but it features a dinner train, an escape room, and seasonal rides, including a Polar Express event in the winter. Their steam engine is currently undergoing repairs, so check online for future departures.
  • If you happen to be in the area during the fall, stop by Willy Tee’s Pumpkin Patch at Teitzel Farm and stock up on decorative pumpkins and gourds as well as lovely sugar pumpkins. (Friday – Sunday, 10am – 7pm during the fall months)
  • Claquato was the original county seat of Lewis County and the quaint Claquato Church is still standing. Built in 1858, it is actually the oldest standing church in Washington State. While original construction plans were for a Presbyterian church, it ended up being consecrated as a Methodist church and school. It’s on the National Register of Historic Places and is well worth a visit. Featuring the original bell, the crown steeple, topped by a crown of thorns, is inspired by New England meeting houses. (Located just off of SR-6, on the way to Adna and Pe Ell.)

Lewis County has its fair share of beautiful landscapes and the route along SR-6 features several examples. Take a break from the four-wheel travel modes and set out in the open, clean air. The epic Willapa Hills State Park Trail goes between Chehalis and South Bend for an adventure-filled 56 miles of biking, walking, and horseback riding. I covered this in my Pacific County article and was happy to explore more parts of the trail while in Lewis County.

If you’re looking for camping, hiking, and fishing opportunities, Rainbow Falls State Park is a great choice. It’s very accessible, beautiful, (it has a fuchsia garden!) and hosts part of the aforementioned Willapa Hills State Park Trail. I spent a couple of hours hanging out by the falls and it was a lovely way to spend a sunny afternoon. (Complete with rainbows!)

Pro Tip: Be sure to get the appropriate licenses before heading out to the parks and trailheads. Get your Discover Pass for state parks and a recreational license if you plan on doing any fishing.

While services and restaurants are more sparsely located in the area, there are indeed some great places to check out. Located just off of SR-6, Adna Grocery is a great place to stock up on groceries, deli foods, and delicious treats – and don’t miss the Doty General Store for a trip back in time. (Also features a post office, antiques, knickknacks, baked goods, etc.) If you’re in need of relaxing, gorgeous farmland views while enjoying a tasty brew, be sure to hit up the excellent Jones Creek Brewing. (Friday 4-8pm, Saturday 12pm – 8pm, Sunday 12pm – 4pm) While Jones Creek Brewing does have light snacks, head just a little further west to Pe Ell and hit up Evey’s Café for homestyle diner far and a full bar. (Daily, 8am – 9pm.)

Since my last visit to the area, the wonderful Owl & Olive café has closed. They do, however, still host weddings and events in their lovely barn, along with delicious catering. The couple who owns the establishment is wonderful and I had a great time hanging out during my visit. I sincerely hope they reopen the café at some point, but in the meantime, check out the annual Ride the Willapa race which starts at the Owl & Olive. (The 2023 race was on Saturday, June 24th.)

Another great way to explore the Lewis County scene while avoiding the I-5 corridor is to jump on Old Hwy 603, south of Chehalis, and head to the Napavine area. It’s a lovely drive along this two-lane, classic Washington highway, with great spots along the way to visit. If you’re feeling peckish, or a maybe a little thirsty, check out Ramblin’ Jacks Rib-eye for a classic steak, BBQ, or tasty breakfast. (Open daily, 8am – 9pm.) Or, for a further step back in time, try out Frosty’s Saloon & Grill (c. 1901) for family-friendly diner fare. (Saturday/Sunday, open at 8am, Monday – Friday, open 11am. Open until 10pm Sun-Thurs, 2am on Fri/Sat.) Also be sure to check out the new kid in town, the Tumac Taproom for craft beer and cider on tap. (Monday – Thursday, 4-9pm, Friday/Saturday, 12– 10pm, Sunday 12 – 7pm)

Road
Scenes from a rambling drive in west Lewis County

Just down from Napavine on Old Hwy 603 sits the eclectic town of Winlock. A lumber town from its early days, it brought Finnish, German, and Swedish immigrants to the area to work in the mills. In addition to its successful lumber industry, the town gained fame as the Egg and Poultry Capital of the World. While no longer a player in the poultry industry, Winlock is now host to the WORLD’S LARGEST EGG. It’s well worth a visit, especially if you can check it out during the annual Winlock Egg Days. (June 15th, 2024) There’s a parade, farmer’s market, evening street dance, and FREE EGG SALAD SANDWICHES. (Be still my egg salad loving heart. What more do you need?? Tots. Okay, good point.)

Side note: Apparently Indiana thinks they have the world’s largest egg. Let’s fight! Maybe an egg toss? Or one of those egg-in-a-teaspoon relays… Let’s do this! (And it looks like Canada wants to enter the fray as well. Hmm.)

If eggs aren’t your thing, head to the Winlock Historical Museum and see what else the history of the area has to offer. (Open Wed/Thurs/Sat, 11am – 2) Or maybe grab your instrument and hit up the annual Winlock Pickersfest. (August 3-5, 2024.) It features concerts, jams, and workshops, along with camping, food, horseshoes, and more! But if you decide you do actually need more chicken-related fun, walk around the downtown area and visit the rooster statues. (These ones are nice and won’t chase you mercilessly around the farmyard.) Finish up your tribute to all things eggs with a visit to the unique Rowdy Rooster Bistro & Thrift. (Open Tuesday – Friday, 8am – 4pm. Closed Saturday – Monday)

As you head out of Winlock, there are a couple of nice routes to explore. If you’d like to head back to I-5, jump on SR-505 and head southeast, passing by the modern part of Winlock. If you’d like to stick to the quieter roads, check out the Winlock-Vader Road and consider a visit to the tiny town of… Vader. (OH how I wish they had a Star Wars festival. Come on.)

Established in 1906, the town of Vader (originally named Little Falls) may be small, but it’s worth a visit. I had a great time on my sunny visit and enjoyed a very tasty breakfast of biscuits and gravy at the quaint Little Crane Café. This classic, small town diner serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, along with old-school, kitschy décor. (Open daily, 7am – 8pm)

After breakfast, I decided to work off the biscuits with a walk around the area. My first stop was at the Old City Jail and adjacent J.K. Werden Memorial Park. (There’s a museum inside the jail, but said jail is unfortunately closed for repairs.) Just a block or so over from the park is the charming Grace Evangelical Church of Vader. (c. 1902) I wrapped up my tour with a visit to the conveniently timed Citywide Yard Sale, hosted by the local Lion’s Club, right alongside SR-506. (Usually first weekend in August) I also was able to visit the historic Rosehill home, owned by lovely author, Judi Costello, who was also hosting a yard sale that afternoon.

After toting my unexpected yard sale purchases back to the car, it was time to head towards I-5 on SR 506 and back to the eastern side of Lewis County. Crossing under I-5 on SR-506, which then becomes Toledo-Vader Road, I headed into the little town of Toledo. (Note: You have not arrived in Ohio.)

Should you be in immediate need of an old-school burger, from SR-506, take the Cowlitz Loop underpass and check out Mrs. Beesley’s Burgers. (Open daily, 11am – 8pm.) There’s also an informative heritage marker just across the parking lot describing the Cowlitz Landing area and the Cowlitz Trail. Count yourself as lucky. I’m pretty sure the tedious canoe ride on the adjacent Cowlitz River didn’t end up with a tasty burger and fries.

From Mrs. Beesley’s, jump on the adjacent Cowlitz Ridge Road and follow it north to Toledo-Vader Road. Or hop on I-5 North and take Exit 60 to Toledo-Vader Road. Then, simply follow Toledo-Vader Road east into… Toledo! At any rate, there should be jumping or hopping involved.

Once known as Cowlitz Landing, modern-day Toledo now exists a little further east, but still sits next to the river. There is much history in the area, including the settlement history of Washington State and in particular, millennia of Native American history of the Cowlitz Tribe. From the importance of the cross-Cascades, Native American Cowlitz Trail to some of the earliest settlement history of the Fort Cowlitz/Cowlitz Farm, the Toledo area has been integral in the development of Washington State.

There’s a lot of great exploring to do in this area and some excellent backroads to travel along. Should you want to grab some sustenance before embarking on your Toledo-area adventure, check out these local spots:

  • Stop in at Donna’s Place for burgers, pizza, and classic diner fare. Located in downtown Toledo, they’re open Tuesday – Thursday, from 11am – 8pm. (Friday/Saturday to 9pm. Closed Sunday/Monday.)
  • Don’t miss Betty’s Place, a classic spot offering old-school burgers, milkshakes, and more. Open daily, 10:30am to 8pm. (Friday/Saturday to 9pm) Might I add they have fry sauce, fried mushrooms, fried green beans, and my favorite sandwich. (Turkey, bacon, Swiss, tomato on grilled sourdough. Yes, please.) (Side note: I wonder if Donna and Betty are friends? Rivals?)
  • If you’re looking for a boutique winery located in a beautiful, pastoral location, just outside of downtown Toledo, head directly to Bateaux Cellars. Super friendly owners, regular events, great outdoor seating areas, and tasty wine make this a must-visit spot. They source their grapes from the fantastic Airfield Estates vineyard near Sunnyside, which were featured in the very lovely Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon I tried on my visit. They also carry beer from Brothers Cascadia Brewing (located in Vancouver) and ciders from local OutWest Ciders. On the day of my visit, there was a local artisan event happening and I ended up with an amazing sculpture from Rusting Day Dreams and some tasty coffee from Black Cat Coffee Co. (Winery tasting room – Friday, 2-6pm, Saturday, Noon-6pm, Sunday, Noon-5pm)
  • For more local artisan action, stop by the Toledo Thursday Market and enjoy what the area has to offer. Their upcoming season opens March 13th, 2024 and can be found at 115 Ramsey Way at the Steamboat Landing.

After enjoying a stop in Toledo, I headed north onSR-505 to Jackson Hwy and then on to the Lewis & Clark State Park. This is a nice park for camping, horseback riding, hiking, and includes equestrian campsite areas. To learn more about the area, head a little further up Jackson Hwy to the Jackson House State Park Heritage Site and enjoy a picnic while you learn more about area history. (Discover Pass required at both locations.)

Continue following Jackson Hwy past the Jackson House State Park Heritage Site to US-12, also known as the White Pass Scenic Byway. (c. 1926. In 1967, it was extended to its current endpoint in Aberdeen.) At this point, you can continue to follow Jackson Hwy all the way back to Chehalis, but I chose to head east on US-12 towards Packwood and White Pass. If you happen to be coming to Lewis County from the eastern side of the state, I highly recommend coming over via US-12. Overall, US-12 is one of my very favorite roads in the state. It’s filled with interesting stops, great food and drink, and leads to some of the most spectacular scenery in the entire United States. It is truly one of the great American highways.

Note: You can take US-12 all the way to Detroit, should you be so inclined! I’ve driven it into Helena, Montana and it was an amazing, incredibly scenic route. (And all those mountains and twisty turns – YOWSA!)

Heading east on US-12 will take you over the very large Mayfield Lake. Formed by Mayfield Dam, the Mayfield Lake Park is located just off of US-12 on Beach Road. It’s a great place for boating, swimming, fishing, and camping. (Note: Be sure to make reservations as the area gets crowded in the summer months.) If you’re looking to rent a boat or jet ski or are interested in cottages or cabins, check out the Mayfield Lake Resort & Marina.

A few miles past Mayfield Lake, you’ll hit the tiny town of Mossyrock. Stop by the family-friendly Pioneer Bar & Grill for classic diner fare, including burgers, pizza, and sandwiches. (Open daily, 11am – 10pm, 11pm on Fri/Sat, 9pm on Sunday.) If you happen to be in the area during July or the winter holiday season, stop in at Aldrich Berry Farm & Nursery for delicious blueberries and Christmas trees. A second-generation farm, they’ve been operating in the area since 1944.

Meandering east on US-12 is a great way to go. However, if you happen to be coming from the north, you might consider hitting up SR-7 off of I-5 near the Fife area. This will bring you down past Spanaway, and to the tiny town of Elbe. Not far past Elbe, you’ll enter Lewis County and the town of Mineral. This route, filled with scenic farmland, is what I travel if when I’m headed to the White Pass Ski Area. (White Pass is one of my favorite places to ski in the world. THE WORLD.)

Whether you enter Morton via US-12 or SR-7, the area is perfectly situated for taking a break and plotting your mountain adventures. Located on US-12, in between Mt. Rainier and Mt. Saint Helens, the Morton area has much to offer as a mountain gateway location. If you happen to be in the area in mid-August, be sure to hit up the Morton Loggers Jubilee (August 8-11, 2024) and learn about the logging history of the area. In its 81st year, it features all things logging, plus lawnmower races and a parade!

While planning your mountain adventure, be sure to stop in at one of Morton’s great restaurants and fuel up for your journey. Check out one of these spots on your next visit:

  • For a great family-friendly diner experience, featuring breakfast, lunch, and dinner, stop in at Papa Bears Restaurant & Lounge. Open daily from 8am – 8pm.
  • It’s been a tradition to stop at Plaza Jalisco when returning home from White Pass Ski Area. Family-friendly, big portions and always tasty. Open daily from 11am – 9pm. (Friday/Saturday to 10pm)
  • Located downtown, in the historic Morton Hotel building, the Rivers Coffeehouse & Bistro is open early for breakfast and features healthy and tasty options. Open 7am – 4pm, Sunday thru Thursday and 7am – 7pm on Friday/Saturday. If you’re interested in staying in the area, be sure to inquire about their inn rooms located upstairs from the bistro.
  • I love to pack a bit of tasty jerky for my mountain adventures. Bear Ridge Smokehouse definitely fills the bill with great jerky, custom meats, custom butchering, and smoked meats. (Daily, 9am – 5:30pm, Saturday to 5pm, closed Sundays.)

Maybe you don’t want to gear up for an epic hike. Maybe you want to relax in a cool theatre or peruse some vintage goods. Never fear, downtown Morton has you covered! Hit up these locations during your Morton visit and enjoy the scene:

  • Recently renovated, the charming Morton Roxy Theater (c. 1937) features first-run movies, community theatre, an events space, live music, and a gallery featuring local artists. They’ve got it all!
  • Directly across the street from the Roxy Theatre, the cute and eclectic Rabbit Hole features a great variety of clothing, antiques, home goods, and more. (Open Tuesday – Friday, 10am – 5pm and Saturday, 11am – 4pm.)
  • For a great selection of local artisan goods, head to the seasonal Morton Farmers Market in the downtown area. Typically open from May thru September on Saturdays from 10am – 2pm, they also feature bazaars during the holiday season.

As I continued east on US-12, I saw a sign for Riffe Lake and decided to give it a look. Given what I learned of the area’s history, I’m so glad I did. Once home to the towns of Kosmos, Riffe and Neskia before being flooded over by the Mossyrock Dam in 1968, the area is now home to Riffe Lake. The towns were “relocated,” (i.e. townspeople were forced to leave) but the actual building foundations and more still remain at the bottom of the lake. Today’s lake supports all manner of outdoor activities including boating, fishing, swimming, and hiking in the areas surrounding the lake. Occasionally, the water level of the lake decreases and during these times, portions of the submerged towns can still be seen.

After investigating Riffe Lake and its eerie history, I continued east on US-12 towards the town of Packwood, and the gateway to Mt. Rainier National Park. That said, there was no way I could miss a stop at the iconic Huff & Puff Drive-in located in the Randle area. Located directly off of US-12 and open daily from 11am – 7pm, this classic drive-in features delicious burgers, fries, shakes, and more. Huff & Puff is also an appropriately named run at nearby White Pass Ski Area. I always think of those burgers as a reward as I huff and puff my way through that run…

Also located in the greater Randle area are some beautiful hiking areas. The Goat Creek Trail / Cathedral Falls hike can be found off of Kosmos Road and features some lovely waterfall scenes. (NW Forest Pass required) If you need still more waterfall shots, check out the Covel Creek Trail & Angel Falls Loop, just south of Randle off of SR-131. (Cispus Road) This trail is very hikeable for families and accessible in the winter months. And one of these days, if the road is open and not filled with snow or landslides, I want to take SR-131 to Forest Road 25 and head further towards the Mt. Saint Helens area. One of these days!

I was getting close to wrapping up my Lewis County adventure, but not before visiting the town of Packwood. Nestled in the shadow of towering Mt. Rainier and surrounded by stunning wilderness areas, Packwood plays a strategic part in current and past Washington State development. An excellent place to learn more about the history and importance of this area is at the White Pass Country Historical Museum, located right off of US-12. It features well-curated displays and a welcoming, knowledgeable staff. (Summer hours – Thursday – Saturday, 11am – 4pm. Winter hours are Saturdays, Noon – 4pm.) For current activities and more info about Packwood and surrounding areas, don’t miss a stop at the Packwood Visitor Center. (Open Thursday – Monday, 9am – 4pm. Closed Tuesday/Wednesday.)

Packwood is a great place to visit year-round. That said, I’m typically in the area during the winter, on my way to White Pass Ski Area. However, my most recent visit was during the summer and I’m so glad I took some time out to explore the area and enjoy Packwood’s warm weather offerings. I love a good farmer’s market and the Packwood Saturday Market was a great stop. I picked up some amazing lavender goods from Randle’s Cowlitz Falls Lavender Company and loved taking in the lavender smell amidst the stately pine trees. (Seasonally, Saturdays, 9am – 1pm) Additionally, the ginormous Packwood Flea Market is not to be missed. (Memorial Day and Labor Day weekends, 9am to dusk. On US-12 and Snyder Road – over a mile long!)

Should you want to take a longer stay in Packwood, check out the Historic Hotel Packwood. (c. 1912) It’s a newly renovated boutique hotel with eight rooms and one cabin, and celebrates the history of the area. (Note: Rooms/Cabin are for guests 18+) If you’re looking for something more rustic, head to the cabins and bunkhouse at Packwood Station. The area used to house the Packwood Ranger Station for Gifford National Forest and has been renovated to accommodate lodging. (Buildings c. 1929 – 1964)

While relatively small, Packwood features several great dining options and in keeping with its strategic location, is a great place to stop when heading home from mountain adventures. I’ve personally visited Packwood many times during and after ski adventures. Here are a few of my favorite spots:

  • Stop by the ski-themed Cliff Droppers for tasty burgers and hand-crafted pizzas. Be sure to pair your meal with a Rainier tallboy! Open Wednesday – Sunday, 11am – 6:45. (5:45 on Sunday) Closed Monday/Tuesday.
  • I love this crazy place. The Blue Spruce Saloon & Diner is a family-friendly, diner and dive bar with great food and an always interesting scene. Many a successful ski-day have been celebrated here. Open daily from 11am – 11pm. (9am on Saturday/Sunday)
  • If you’re looking for good pizza, burger, or maybe a classic breakfast dish, stop by Cruiser’s Pizza and enjoy! Open daily, 9am – 8pm (8am Saturday/Sunday)
  • A good cup of coffee is an important thing, any time of day. I’ve found The Mountain Goat Coffee Company nicely fills all of my caffeine-focused needs. The atmosphere is quaint and regularly filled with locals. Try the baked goods! Open daily, 7am – 5pm.
  • If you’re looking for a spot to stretch your legs on a sunny afternoon, stop by the Packwood Brewing Co. I absolutely love this place, along with their delicious Cowlitz Kolsch. They also have a small menu which includes hot dogs, brats, nachos, tacos, pretzels, and quesadillas. All great accompaniments for their great brews! Open weekdays from 3-9pm, Friday from 1-10pm, weekends from 9am – 10pm, Sunday to 9pm. (Weekend breakfast from 9-11:30am)

Keep going east on US-12 and you’ll come to the aforementioned, beyond compare White Pass Ski Area. You can’t miss it as it’s located directly beside US-12 and features a ton of old-school ski-hill charm and amazing snow. (Check out my Yakima County article for a more detailed description of the area.) For this journey, however, I chose to head home via US-12 and SR-123. This summertime route takes you into spectacular Mt. Rainier National Park and over to SR-410. It’s an amazing drive and gives you a great look at the park without having to pay the entrance fee. It can get pretty crowded, however, and you might get some extra time to check out the scenery if caught behind a motorhome – or someone unfamiliar with curvy mountain roads… On the topic of Mt. Rainier, I plan on devoting an entire article to the area as there are so many amazing areas to celebrate. Stay tuned!

  • Pro Tip 1: SR-123 is closed during the winter and SR-410 is closed at the Crystal Mountain access road during the winter. Also be sure to check roads year-around for washouts and other closures. With the help of much snowplowing, US-12 remains open throughout the year. (Most of the time. Know before you go.)
  • Pro Tip 2: Beginning summer of 2024, visitors entering Mt. Rainier National Park from the Nisqually, Stevens Canyon, and Sunrise/White River entrance stations during peak hours (7am – 3pm) will need reservations.

Before meeting up with SR-123, look for the turn-off on US-12 to La Wis Wis Guard Station No. 1165. Included on the National Register of Historic Places, it was built by the CCCs in 1928. Not only was it an important part of developing routes through the state, it now houses a great campground, hiking areas, fishing, and biking. It’s also in an excellent location from which to explore Mt. Rainier National Park as well as the expansive Gifford Pinchot National Forest. (Note: La Wis Wis Campground was closed in 2023 for renovations and repairs. It is planned to reopen in 2024.)

Should you feel like checking out more of the natural splendor of the area, there are nearly countless options. Here are a few more areas to explore in this spectacularly beautiful part of the state:

  • Travel in the historic footsteps of Native Americans on the Cowlitz Trail. This trail was used for millennia by the Yakama and Cowlitz tribes crossing back and forth over the mountains via Cowlitz Pass. Head east on US-12 out of Packwood for nine miles and turn left onto Forest Road 4510 and follow it to the Soda Springs trailhead. You can also access the lovely Frying Pan Loop trail off of the Cowlitz Trail.
  • Stop by the Ohanapecosh area off of SR-123 for amazing camping and hiking in old-growth forests. Don’t miss a stop at the very informative visitor center. Chat with a ranger and learn more about the flora and fauna of the area and the incredible bio-diversity of Mt. Rainier National Park. (Note: Ohanapecosh is not accessible in the winter months.)
  • For summer hiking, the Eastside Trail is an epic, 13.3-mile, one-way trail to stunning Chinook Pass out of the Ohanapecosh Campground. Parking/access is also available at the Grove of the Patriarchs parking lot, but the actual Grove of the Patriarchs is temporarily closed due to a footbridge washout. (I hope it reopens soon as it’s a lovely, very accessible walk among the giants.) If you’re up for a longer adventure with some tent camping along the way, make it a roundtrip, 26.6-mile adventure. (Don’t forget to get your backcountry permit at the ranger station.) Or consider having a buddy pick you up at the Chinook Pass parking lot and then drive you back to Ohanapecosh. OR – park at Chinook Pass and do the hike in reverse! (A NW Forest Pass is required to park at Chinook Pass.) Any way you hike it, this is a pretty cool way to cross this part of the state.

Well alrighty. That was quite a journey! While it’s completely possible to take a very enjoyable day trip through Lewis County, I thoroughly recommend taking at least a few days to explore. I was able to pack in quite a bit during my initial day trip, but I will admit to coming back for a longer, weekend trip as well. I might’ve also mixed in some travels from past visits to the area. I will neither confirm nor deny. The bottom line is Lewis County occupies a beautiful part of the state and an important spot in my heart. I will never tire of visiting the area and enjoying all it has to offer. I hope you’re able to do the same!

Until next time – Safe travels!

SPOTIFY PLAYLIST – Some tunes to accompany you on your Lewis County adventure

  • The Secret Sun – Jesse Harris (from The Secret Sun)
  • These Wheels – Gabe Dixon (from Turns to Gold)
  • Closer to Fine – Brandi Carlile, Catherine Carlile (from Barbie The Album)
  • So Familiar – Steve Martin, Edie Brickell (from So Familiar)
  • All the Lilacs in Ohio – John Hiatt, Jerry Douglas (from Leftover Feelings)
  • Gettin’ Happy – Dolly Parton (from Love Is Like A Butterfly)
  • Buckets of Rain – Redbird (from Redbird)
  • The Old North Woods – Béla Fleck (from My Bluegrass Heart)
  • The Imperial March (Darth Vader’s Theme) – John Williams, London Symphony Orchestra (from Star Wars The Empire Strikes Back)
  • The Tale of Mr. Morton – Skee-Lo (from School House Rock! Rocks)
  • Wildflowers – Tom Petty (from Wildflowers)
  • I Was Made For Sunny Days – The Weepies, Deb Talan, Steven Tannen (from Be My Thrill)
  • Driving Without Purpose – Ylvis (from Stories From Norway: Northug)
  • Huff and Puff – Janeen Brady (from Standin’ Tall, Vol. 6: Happiness)
  • Training Montage – The Mountain Goats (from Bleed Out)
  • Carry on Wayward Son – Kansas (from Leftoverture)
  • Come Sail Away – Styx (from The Grand Illusion)
  • Any Way You Want It – Journey (from Departure)
  • You Really Got Me – Van Halen (from Van Halen)
  • Stone Cold – Rainbow (from Straight Between The Eyes)
  • Humble & Kind – Tim McGraw (from Damn Country Music)
  • Linger – Jenny Slate (from Marcel the Shell With Shoes On (Unplugged))
Olympic Club Hotel
Cheers! And happy trails!

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Please join me on more I Ate the State adventures!

I Ate the State – Okanogan County

Greetings!

Welcome to the largest county in Washington State, Okanogan County. Seriously, this county is ENORMOUS! In fact, I’d go as far to say it is ginormous – and filled with an equally large bevy of adventure-filled opportunities. I am absolutely blown away by the size and scale of the county every time I’m lucky enough to visit. Towering mountains, beautiful forests, winding rivers and some of the darkest, star-filled skies in North America are just a few of Okanogan County’s stunning attributes. It would take many trips to cover all it has to offer, but please join me as I pay tribute to the amazing areas I’ve visited thus far.

North Cascades
The North Cascades are calling!

There are many ways to hit up Okanogan County, including via our lovely neighbor, Canada. It is also possible to visit Okanogan County via the 440-mile Cascade Loop as it circles through King, Snohomish, Chelan, Skagit and Okanogan counties. This amazing route was recently and appropriately designated a National Scenic Byway in January of 2021. It is a fantastic way to visit the state and a beautiful representation of everything Washington has to offer.

Included as part of the Cascade Loop is the North Cascades Scenic Byway, also known as SR-20. Opened in 1972 to accommodate area hydroelectric projects as well as access to the newly created North Cascades National Park (1968), it is the longest highway in Washington. It is possible to traverse the entire state, beginning from coastal US-101 and ending at the border with Idaho. If you want to experience an amazing cross-section of the state’s bounty, SR-20 is the way to go!

Travel Alert: Okanogan County typically deals with very serious wildfires throughout the summer months. Portions of SR-20 and other thoroughfares are periodically closed and many trails, campsites, homes, lodges, etc. can close or experience various levels of evacuation. Please check the WSDOT before traveling and follow all fire stages and restrictions whenever in forested and dry areas. Be smart. Be safe!

Since Okanogan County is so large, it took me a few visits to experience even the moderate amount of adventures I’m about to share. I took different routes in and out of the county, but for this take, we’ll start out heading east on SR-20, off of I-5 in the Burlington area. (A great alternative off of I-5 is SR-530 to Darrington and then over to SR-20 near Rockport.) When the North Cascades pass is closed during the winter, another great route out of the Seattle area is via I-90 to Cle Elum and then SR-970­ to US-97 and Blewett Pass. US-97 will then meet up with US-2 at Peshastin and then back to US-97 at Orondo. Once in Okanogan County, take SR-153 from Pateros to head towards Twisp and Winthrop or stay on US-97 north towards Okanogan and the Canadian border. If you’re heading over from the eastern side of the state, US-395 out of the Spokane to SR-20 at Kettle Falls is great, as is US-395 out of the Tri-Cities area to SR-17 in Mesa and on to US-97.

The route via SR-20 through Skagit and Whatcom counties is spectacular. There are so many things to see and do along the way and so many glorious distractions. Eyes on the road, lovely travelers – we’re headed towards Okanogan County! That said, if you’re headed along SR-20, it would be road trip silliness to not check out a few of the more amazing spots along the way. I double-dog dare you to pass up these surreally beautiful sights on your next trip through the area. (Don’t actually take my dare – check out the sights!)

  • Directly off of SR-20 is the amazing Gorge Creek and Gorge Lake interpretive trail. The waterfall itself is breathtaking and can be viewed via a careful walk across the highway from the parking area. Even if you’re not a fan of heights, the area is well worth investigating.  
  • The deep turquoise, glacial waters of Diablo Lake blow me away every time I see them. There is much to do in the area, but taking a ride with the Diablo Lake Dam Tour, operated out of the very cool North Cascades Institute, is a great way to experience the area in a few hours. (Also a pick-up point for the Diablo Lake Ferry which heads to the incredibly unique, floating Ross Lake Resort.) Hit up my Whatcom County article for a more detailed view of the area.
  • If you don’t have time to stop at Diablo Lake proper, a quick stop at Diablo Lookout is a must! The views are soaring and everywhere you look presents the most perfect picture you’ve ever seen. (Pro Tip: It’s also a rest area and there aren’t many along this route. Just sayin’.)

Alrighty. After all that preamble and amazing roadway, we have at last arrived in Okanogan County! I will also commend you (and me!) for your fortitude while traversing over the formidable Washington Pass. (This part of SR-20 is very appropriately closed during the winter.) The North Cascades have been nicknamed “The Alps of North America,” and the comparison is well-deserved. This area is a haven for mountaineers, hikers and skiers alike, but even if you’re just heading over the pass, a stop at the Washington Pass Observation Site is a worthy adventure. At around 5500 feet, the views of Liberty Bell Mountain, Early Winters Spires and the highway as it snakes through the valley are awe-inspiring. The Alps are certainly something to behold, but the North Cascades are in a class of grandeur all their own.

After maneuvering through the impressive twists and turns of Washington Pass, the highway descends towards the idyllic, mountain town of Mazama and the enchanting Methow Valley. Washington has its fair share of stunning locales, but I can honestly say I’d move to the Mazama area tomorrow if it were possible. The most amazing scenery imaginable, all the outdoor adventure opportunities you could ever desire and the peaceful bliss of dark, star-studded skies can all be found in Mazama. While the area is rugged and doesn’t cater to modern convenience, it is not without its charms. A few places not to miss in the Mazama area:

  • If I lived in Mazama, I’d be at the incredibly cool, local institution, The Mazama Store every day. I’d have a regular table inside or a spot in their super-cool, outdoor courtyard. I’d eat one (or several) of their ridiculously tasty baked goods with several cups of their excellent coffee – in my personal mug. (OMG – their cream-cheese filled Everything Bagel!) I’d get my groceries, gas and takeaway food there. I’m pretty sure they’d be sick of me, but I wouldn’t leave. I can’t quit you, Mazama Store! And I would most certainly hang out at their yearly, Christmas at the End of the Road celebration. Cheers, Mazama! (Store open daily, 7am – 6pm. Gas 24hrs.)
  • Located conveniently behind the Mazama Store, The Goat’s Beard Mountain Supply has everything you need for exploring the local splendor. Gear sales and rentals available year-round, they have bikes, skis, snowshoes and more. A perfect spot to hit up before setting out on the amazing Methow Trails trailhead, located very close by. (Store open daily, 9am – 6pm)
  • Enjoy the ranch life at Freestone Inn at Wilson Ranch. (c. 1940s ranch) A lovely lodge and cabin layout feature 36 units with lake or forest view. For dining, check out their Sandy Butte Bistro, Moonshine Bar and Jack’s Hut. (Note: Dining options currently closed Monday/Tuesday. Check online for updates.) They are also located along the beautiful Sandy Butte Trail and are close to the Early Winters Campground and Early Winters Trail.
  • Close to cross-country ski trails and year-round activities, check out the Mazama Country Inn for their cozy inn and cabins. They also feature onsite yoga and tennis as well as a seasonal restaurant.

One of the biggest draws to the area is the undeniably spectacular North Cascades National Park. Featuring 300 glaciers, soaring mountain peaks, rugged terrain and lush forest, it is one of America’s most glorious gems. Just next door is the winner for *Best Supporting Forest in a Gorgeous Nature Scene, the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest. You truly can’t go wrong wherever you end up in this expansive, amazing setting. (*Not a real award, but should be)

If you’re up for an adrenaline rush and a view of all this majesty from the highest drivable point in Washington, take a trip to Slate Peak Lookout, located above Hart’s Pass. The road ends at 7488 feet at the Slate Peak parking area and is a narrow, steep gauntlet of unpaved twists and turns, complete with no guardrails. (Important note: Trailers are not allowed and RVs are highly discouraged.) Once you’re at the parking lot, it’s a half-mile hike to the lookout. If you happen to be in the area at night, I’ve heard the dark skies are filled with an absolute blanket of stars. Dreamy! (Side note: I totally got sucked into watching videos of people driving up the road. Yikes!)

Pro Tip: While there are no fees required to drive through the North Cascades National Park, they are often involved for parking within the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest. Various National Park trails actually begin within the National Forest and could require a NW Forest Pass.

If you’d like to do some hiking, backpacking and camping or perhaps a climb in the park, there are SO many wonderful options for your adventure. For something epic, the 2650-mile Pacific Crest Trail runs through the south part of park and the 1200-mile Pacific Northwest Trail (WA, MT, ID) traverses through the upper-north of the state, through the park and down towards the coast. (Note: All overnight camping within the park requires a park Backcountry Permit.) Good spots to join up with the Pacific Crest Trail are off of SR-20 near the Rainy Pass Trailhead, the Cutthroat Lake trailhead or via the aforementioned Hart’s Pass.

For something not quite as involved, but equally epic and beautiful, consider these great backpacking and camping spots for your next trip to the North Cascades and Mazama area:

  • For the perfect combo of stunning views and a loop trail, check out the Heather-Maple Pass Loop off of SR-20, across from the Rainy Pass Trailhead.
  • Located in the area of the Washington Pass Lookout, Blue Lake is a very reasonable 2-mile hike from SR-20. The elevation gain is relatively low (1050 ft) and makes for a lovely family daytrip. You might even see a mountain goat!
  • Sporting some pretty amazing scenery and backcountry camping, Easy Pass and the Fisher Creek Trails offer a splendid cross-section of North Cascades glory. Park at the trailhead at milepost 151 on SR-20 to start your adventure.
  • For an amazing view, head to the historic Goat Peak Lookout and revel in the wonder of the North Cascades and Methow Valley.
  • Following along with the goat theme, Goat Wall Overlook offers yet another spectacular view of the North Cascades and Methow Valley and is easily reached from Mazama proper.
  • For great forest, flowers and more, the Robinson Creek Trail and the West Fork Methow Trail are very enjoyable hikes. (Hot tip: The Pacific Crest Trail can also be accessed from the West Fork Methow Trail.) If you’re up for camping in the area, the River Bend Campsite and Ballard Campground are good options. (Note: A NW Forest Pass is required for the Robinson Creek Trail and Ballard Campground areas.)

I am a creature of the snow. Winter is coming! (Doesn’t matter what time of year you might be reading this article…) The North Cascades are known for their stellar climbing challenges, both rock and alpine, and I dream of conquering even a small portion. Those snowy heights are within reach. I know it! (Gear up and grab the 10 Essentials first, but the mountains are calling!) In addition to climbing, the North Cascades and Methow Valley offer some of the country’s (nay, world’s) best cross-country skiing opportunities. Should you feel inspired to don your Gore-Tex and hit the winter wonderland, here are just a few of the snowy possibilities:

  • There are SO many amazing places to climb in the North Cascades. WOW. If you’ve got nerves of steel and a love of heights, the iconic Liberty Bell awaits. Forbidden Peak is considered one of the top, classic climbs in North America and is a surefire adrenaline rush. Add to that list, Sharkfin Tower, the Goat Wall and Eldorado Peak and you’re looking at some serious mountaineering magnificence.
  • If you’d like an assist with your ascent, hit up the experts at North Cascades Mountain Guides for both alpine and rock adventures – year-round! (Open Monday – Friday, 9am – 3pm and Saturday/Sunday, 8am – 5pm)
  • The North Cascades and Methow Valley support an incredible Nordic scene which includes cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and fat-biking. In operation since the 1970s, the non-profit Methow Trails system is now North America’s largest cross-country ski area. Working with local landowners to allow access to private land, the groomed trails feature over 120-miles of snowy opportunity. One can even ski town to town and lodge to lodge – just like in Europe! Methow Trails also support some pretty amazing summer action as well.
  • In addition to climbing expeditions, North Cascade Mountain Guides also offer ski tours in North Cascades National Park. You could even try your hand (and legs!) at heli-skiing or backcountry touring with local outfit, North Cascades Heli.
  • Perhaps you’d like to sit down while enjoying your snowy adventuring. If snowmobiling is your jam, there are many amazing areas to hit up in the Methow Valley. Yellowjacket Sno-Park provides access to excellent snowmobile trails in the Hart’s Pass and Blackpine Basin areas. Eightmile Sno-Park, located out of Winthrop on West Chewuch Road is another great area to check out. Visit the Methow Valley Snowmobiling Association for local tips and be sure to have your Sno-Park and snowmobiling permits sorted out. (Required November thru March)
Liberty Bell
Liberty Bell, stunning with snow or without!

Heading east through the Methow Valley towards Winthrop is a beautiful adventure in and of itself. Any time of the year you happen to be in this area is guaranteed to be an extraordinary experience. Featuring snow-covered pastures and scenery in the winter, idyllic harvest colors in the fall and abundant flora and fauna in the warmer months, the area is a picture-perfect wonderland.

Longtime stewards of the valley, the Methow People, now part of the Confederated Tribes of the Colville Reservation have cherished the area for millennia. Flowing through this beautiful valley, the Methow River was a vital part of the Methow Peoples’ lives and to this day is an extremely integral part of valley life. A fine way to experience this timeless splendor is with a horseback riding adventure or a hike along the Methow Community Trail. Take a stop on the lovely Tawlks-Foster Suspension Bridge and take in the river scene. (Groomed for skiers in the winter!) The Methow Valley is always striking and not to be missed on your Okanogan County adventure.

Continuing through the Methow Valley on SR-20 will bring you directly into the very unique town of Winthrop. As you enter town, you might question if you’ve just stumbled into an Old West movie set. Nope – it’s just a typical day in Winthrop! Feel free to bust out your chaps and ride in on a horse, but more modern methods of transportation are equally welcome. In fact, on a busy weekend day, you’ll be lucky to snag one of the parking spots in the center of town. (SR-20 is the main route through town.)

While there are many aspects of early settler life that remain in Winthrop, the “western” feel of the town was inspired by the opening of SR-20 in 1972. Local merchants contributed $1000 each and a new era of industry began. Along with general updates, false facades were rebuilt, sidewalks were replaced with boardwalks and a “Westernization Code” was put in play. (In effect to this day.) Similar to what the nearby town of Leavenworth also accomplished, the town modernized its tourist appeal by taking a step back in time. Everything old is new again! (I say that to myself every birthday.)

Just as is the scene in nearby Mazama, outdoor activities and beautiful views are plentiful in Winthrop any time of the year. Whether you’re into cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, fat biking, ice-skating, hockey, hiking, camping or fishing, Winthrop has you covered. And that’s just the short list! Even if you simply want to sit out at night and marvel at the wonderfully dark skies or look out from your hotel deck onto the Methow and Chewuch rivers as they converge, Winthrop can accommodate you. It is truly an excellent town to spend a spell. And maybe water your horse…

If you’re anything like me, you’re likely pretty hungry (and thirsty!) after all of that adventuring. Even if you were only sitting by the river, that takes some concentration! Which surely burns some amount of calories, right?? At any rate, it’s a very wise plan to spend some time enjoying the food and beverage scene in Winthrop. It may be a small area, but Winthrop certainly packs in some delicious options! Here are some of my favorite spots in Winthrop:

  • Featuring delicious craft cocktails and locally sourced ingredients, Copper Glance is an excellent place to enjoy a meal. The atmosphere is modern, but is set in a historic Winthrop locale. (Open Thursday – Saturday, 4-pm)
  • I absolutely love the Old Schoolhouse Brewery. If it’s a nice day, head directly to the beautiful riverside seating, overlooking the Chewuch River. I particularly enjoy their Methow Blonde with one of their amazing burgers or an order of Totchos. They also regularly feature live music in the summer. (Open Monday – Thursday, 3-8pm, Friday/Saturday, Noon – 9pm, Sunday, Noon – 8pm)
  • If you’re in need of a sugar fix, don’t miss a stop at the popular Sheri’s Sweet Shoppe. It can be a bit touristy on a busy weekend, but the delicious treats are worth the wait. (Open daily, 7am – 6pm. Open seasonally.)
  • I have a very special place in my heart for the fabulous Rocking Horse Bakery. Perhaps I’ll tell you the story one of these days… Don’t miss the amazing carrot cake and cup of their always excellent coffee. They feature Lariat Coffee Roasters which are conveniently located next door! I truly love this place. (Open Thursday – Monday, 7am – 2pm. Closed Tuesday/Wednesday.)
  • My brother and I enjoyed some seriously delicious pizza at East 20 Pizza. Featuring excellent pizza along with great beer and a fun atmosphere, it’s an all-around enjoyable place to stop. (Open daily, 3-8pm.)
  • Should you be feeling a little fancy during your Winthrop visit, head to the Arrowleaf Bistro for a delicious evening. Their menu features locally-sourced ingredients and a modern flair. Check out the roasted quail with local Bluebird Grain Farms farro! (Open for dinner, Thursday – Sunday, 5-9pm)
  • Featuring apples they grow themselves, the Methow Valley Cider House is a great place for cider and food. They also have the Apple Amphitheatre for live events and music. (Winter 2022 – Open daily, 12-8pm, closed Wednesdays.)
  • Stop in at the tasting room of boutique, family-owned Lost River Winery and enjoy a glass or two. A nice glass of Cab on a fall afternoon… yes, please! (Friday – Sunday, 11am – 5pm)
  • Offering tastings and small plates, the Brix Wine Bar & Bottle Shop is a lovely spot to both relax with a glass and replenish your wine rack. (Open Wednesday, 4-9pm, Thursday – Sunday, 1-5pm, 6pm on Friday/Saturday – Closed Monday/Tuesday)
  • If you’d like to take home a bit of the area bounty, stop by the Winthrop Farmers Market and stock up! (Sundays, 10am – 2pm in Winthrop Park. Spring thru Fall)

The very strollable boardwalks in Winthrop not only host excellent dining options, but feature several wonderful shops. Grab a good book, gear up for your outdoor adventures or stock up on crafting items – Winthrop has what you need. A few of the excellent shopping possibilities for your next visit:

  • In addition to a great supply of crafting, quilting and gift items, the 3 Bears Café & Quilts also offers casual breakfasts and great coffee in their inviting shop. Located at the east end town, it is well worth a stop. (Winter hours: Thursday – Monday, 10:30am – 5:30pm. Closed Tuesday/Wednesday)
  • If you’d like to cozy up in your cabin, stop by the charming Trail’s End Bookstore and grab something for your weekend library. (Open Wednesday – Sunday, 10am – 6pm and Monday/Tuesday, 10am – 3pm)
  • Forget your ski poles? Need some cool new hiking boots? Stop in at Winthrop Mountain Sports and let them outfit you. They can fill your Nordic ski needs and rentals as well as hook you up with a sweet kayak. (Open daily, 9:30am – 6pm, 9am – 6pm on Saturday, 5pm on Sunday)
  • Backpacks, tents, Nordic ski gear and more! The very cool Cascades Outdoor Store has everything needed to trick out your outdoor adventures. (Sunday – Thursday, 9am – 6pm, Friday/Saturday, 9am – 5pm)
  • Should you plan on braving the local rivers, hit up Methow River Raft & Kayak and make sure you’re ready to go. In addition to gear and rentals, they also offer guided trips for rafting and kayaking. (Open daily, 10am – 5pm)
  • Want to learn more about the fat bike craze or rest a pair of skis or snowshoes? Stop by Methow Cycle & Sport and let them hook you up with all your year-round sporting needs. (Open daily, 9am – 5:30pm, 5pm on Sunday.)

Whether you want to enjoy some quality indoor time or spend your time trekking on a hiking or x-country trail, there are SO many possibilities in the Winthrop area:

  • Even if you are only passing through Winthrop, make time to visit the fascinating Shafer Museum, situated on a small hill above downtown. This step back in time features well-curated indoor exhibits as well as an extensive outdoor collection of mining implements and more. Open daily, 10am – 5pm in summer. (May 9th – September 19th) Note: The museum is also open in winter, but the buildings are closed and snow doesn’t get cleared. Also open by appointment year-round.
  • Looking to see that cool new indie film or catch a live performance from a NW band? The Barnyard Cinema is the place to be! Along with movies and live music, they also have a concession stand and a lounge with beer, wine and coffee.
  • In addition to the stellar Nordic scene, there are other chilly options to explore while in town. Head to the Winthrop Ice and Sports Rink for ice skating and hockey during your winter visit. This all-season rink also has roller/inline skating, roller hockey and pickleball in the summer. Check out their online schedule for more info.
  • In addition to the excellent, year-round outdoor opportunities of the Methow Trails, there are many other areas to check out. The Pipestone Canyon Rim Trail between Winthrop and Twisp and the Sa Teekh Wa Trail (Riverwalk Trail) via the beautiful Sa Teekh Wa Suspension Bridge are excellent options. Just out of Winthrop on East Chewuch Road is Falls Creek Falls with its lovely, 2.6-mile roundtrip trail to a series of falls. If you want to extend your trip to the area, hit up the Falls Creek Campground for some further outdoor adventure.
  • Perhaps you rolled into town with your ski boat or jet skis. If you’re looking for a place to put in, head to Pearrygin Lake State Park located just outside of Winthrop. It’s a great state park with camping, boating, fishing and winter Nordic opportunities. (Discover Pass required)

There are so many beautiful lodging options in Winthrop and surrounding areas. In addition to the large list of local hotels, lodges, cabins and campgrounds, there are also many opportunities available via sites like Airbnb and Vrbo. It does, however, get pretty busy in the summer months in particular. Book early for your adventures! A few of the excellent places where you can rest up from your adventuring:

  • Overlooking Winthrop and the valley, the Sun Mountain Lodge has much to offer from its spectacular, mountaintop perch. Even if you’re not staying at the lodge, the amazing views and beautiful drive are worth your time. If you are lucky enough to be staying there, be sure to check out the spa, excellent wine cellar, gift shop, pool and comfortable lodging. I wasn’t actually staying there on my last visit, but that didn’t stop me from enjoying a delicious breakfast in their restaurant – AND a gorgeous view! Part of the Methow Trails system, there are winter trails for cross-country skiing, fat-biking, snowshoeing and summer trails for hiking, biking and horseback riding. There is truly something for everyone at Sun Mountain Lodge.
  • I’ve stayed at the Hotel Rio Vista and very much enjoyed my time there. It’s more of a traditional motel setup, but what sets it apart are the river views from each room’s private deck. A glass of wine, the river and those star-filled skies? Dreamy!
  • The River’s Edge Resort is located appropriately on the Chewuch River in downtown Winthrop.  Featuring a series of charming cabins, some with their own hot tubs, the resort is an excellent place to spend your holiday.
  • Situated on the Methow River, River Run Inn & Cabins feature lovely rooms, cabins and a 6-bedroom house. They also have an indoor pool and hot tub, large grounds and a fire circle by the river. Methow River Raft & Kayak also offer trips leaving directly from the inn. Adventure at your doorstep!
  • Not only does the Spring Creek Ranch have lodging and host beautiful weddings and events, they are also well known for their alfalfa. Throw a wedding, rent a cabin and grab a bale (or ton!) of alfalfa from their 6-acre farm. All the things!
  • In addition to cozy rooms and complimentary breakfasts in their lodge, the Chewuch Inn also has seven cabins and lovely grounds which include a small, organic orchard.
  • Hit up The Virginian Resort & Hotel for their cozy, western-themed cabins and rooms with tranquil river views. I’m giving them extra points for having a groovy “1969” themed cabin.

As the area can get incredibly dry during the long, hot summers, the danger of wildfires runs extremely high. This danger has been increasing over the years, making the need for a rapid-deployment fire-fighting presence incredibly important and necessary. Enter the North Cascades Smokejumper Base. Located between Winthrop and nearby Twisp at the Methow Valley State Airport, the base supports the local firefighting effort, including the specialized smokejumper crew.

In 1939, Methow Valley became the birthplace of smoke-jumping. Today, there are nine primary locations in the western part of the US and Alaska. These bases support around 400 smokejumpers and owe their existence to the first crew out of the Methow Valley. If they’re not otherwise engaged in fighting fires, the base is open June 1st thru October 1st for free tours. (Daily, 10am – 5pm) The tour includes a museum and smokejumper planes. Go check out what these brave women and men do!

After visiting with the smokejumpers, hop back on SR-20 and head towards the wonderful town of Twisp. This little paradise of a town is well-known as an artist’s haven and even a quick visit easily showcases this claim. Packed into its relatively small borders lie tasty food options, top-notch galleries and beautiful outdoor possibilities. You won’t want to miss taking in the charms of Twisp.

On your next visit through the area, fuel up for your Twisp adventures at these delicious spots:

  • Don’t miss a stop at the iconic Cinnamon Twisp Bakery. Not only do they feature super tasty pastries, they also feature excellent breakfast bagel sandwiches and lunch offerings. Open Wednesday – Sunday, 7am – 3pm, Closed Monday/Tuesday.
  • For wood-fired, tasty Italian goodness, reserve a spot at Tappi. Enjoy pizza, pasta, delicious wines and more! (Open Friday – Tuesday, 5-7:30pm. Closed Wednesday/Thursday)
  • Who doesn’t love a bahn mi sandwich, a tasty burger or maybe a Korean fried chicken sandwich? YUM!! Check out the Fork food truck, located seasonably on the TwispWorks campus. (May thru mid-October, Wednesday – Saturday. Check online for hours.)
  • If you’re looking for a great cup of coffee, stop in at Blue Star Coffee Roasters and get your caffeine fix. Visit the coffee roasting plant where you can get fresh pastries and coffee onsite or order online. (They have a coffee subscription deal!) Open Monday – Saturday, 7:30am – 1:30pm.
  • The very cool Glover Street Market, located in the heart of downtown Twisp features a great grocery selection along with a food counter and groovy wine cellar. (Open Monday – Saturday, 9am – 6pm. Kitchen open 9am – 4pm. Closed Sunday.) Note: They’re for sale! If I had money to buy a local grocery spot… Crowd fund me??
  • If you happen to be in town on a Saturday between April and October, stop by the Twisp Farmers Market and stock up on local goods. (AKA: Methow Valley Farmer’s Market) Saturdays, 9am – noon (April – October)

There are so many amazing things to experience in the Twisp area. Want to add a bit of the Arts to your adventure? Done! Consider these creative options for your next stay in the area:

  • Perhaps you’d like to stay right in the middle of all that Twisp action. Drop off your bags at the very cool Twisp River Hotel Suites, located on the lovely Twisp River and relax in style.
  • I’m a sucker for a good vintage or thrift shop. I had a great time perusing the goods at The Thrifty Fox in downtown Twisp. (Open Wednesday thru Saturday, 10am – 4pm. Closed Sunday – Tuesday.)
  • Featuring local artists, the Confluence Gallery is an excellent place to check out all things arty. (Open Thursday – Saturday, 10am – 5pm)
  • Should you be looking for some local theatre or maybe even a theatre camp, check out The Merc Playhouse in downtown Twisp. Check online for upcoming shows and auditions.
  • Located in the downtown area, the Methow Valley Interpretive Center features exhibits and an interpretive garden focusing on indigenous peoples and natural surroundings of the area. They also feature very interesting events and classes. (Open Friday – Sunday, Noon – 4pm, 10am on Saturday)
  • You can find Samantha Carlin’s work in various shops around the area, but Twisp-based Lucid Glassworks is also available online. I picked up a lovely glass from the Sun Mountain gift shop and I’m looking forward to expanding to a full set. (Currently waiting for it to ship, in fact!)
  • For a great opportunity to enjoy all things Twisp and gear up for the holidays, check out their Mistletoe Madness celebration in the downtown area. (December 3rd, 2021 from 3-7pm)

I can’t say enough good about local arts mecca, Twispworks, located in the downtown area. It’s an incredibly cool artist collective, sculpture garden, business incubator and more. A must-stop for your next Twisp visit. A few of the eclectic spots to explore at Twispworks:

  • If you’re looking for tasty beer, visit the OSB Taproom, located on the TwispWorks campus. An extension of Winthrop’s Old Schoolhouse Brewery, this new production facility and adjacent taproom are a great place to spend an afternoon. They also feature Methow Pure sparkling water. (Open Monday – Friday, 3pm – close and Saturday – Sunday, noon to close.)
  • Outside food is welcome at the OSB Taproom and Saskatoon Kitchens is ready to fill the bill. Located on the Twispworks campus, they feature some very tasty items. (Check out their Menu!)
  • Featuring artisan gifts and goods from the Methow Valley and Okanogan County, Methow Valley Goods is the perfect place to stop for that special gift. (Open Monday – Saturday, 11am – 4pm. Also available online!)
  • If you’re in the market for beautiful, hand-dyed wearable art, Culler Studio is the place to be! (Thursday/ Friday, 10am – 4pm, Saturday, 10am – 2pm. Closed Sunday – Wednesday.)
  • Featuring super cool bags, wallets, masks and more, the innovative eqpd is a great place to check out. Their HEPA masks and stadium bags are super rad!  (Monday – Friday, 10am – 4pm, Saturday to 2pm, Closed Sunday)
  • Check out the Fireweed Print Shop for their letterpress facilities and unique hand-printed items. (Open Thursday/Friday, Noon – 4pm and Saturday, 11am – 2pm. Closed Sunday – Wednesday.)
  • As soon as I have a spot to hang one of their one-of-a-kind nests, I’m heading directly to Nice Nests. These species-specific nesting boxes use recycled materials and are absolutely charming. (Call for hours)

Okanogan County has definitely cornered the market on amazing outdoor opportunities and Twisp certainly holds up its part of the bargain. Beauty is everywhere! Here are a few amazing spots from which to view the majesty:

Trees
Take a moment and enjoy the beauty of the area…

After reveling in the artistic grandeur of Twisp, it was time to head back into the surrounding mountains. As a skier, it’s long been on my bucket-list to ski every ski hill in the state. Sadly, I still have a few places on my list and nearby Loup Loup Ski Bowl is one of them. Since I’m located on the west side of the state and the North Cascades pass is closed during the winter, it’s a bit of a haul to get to the area. However, since my most recent trip was in the summer months, I merrily made the trek. (Sans skis, unfortunately.)

Located in between Twisp and Okanogan off of SR-20, Loup Loup is small, but mighty. They have runs to suit all levels as well as cross-country trails and… Luge sledding!! I might just have to make the long winter trek to the area and check it out. A snow cat ferries lugers up the mountain, where an epic-looking ride down then ensues. COOL! And should snowmobiles be more your thing, head to the South Summit Sno-Park and unload your beast. (The area also features groomed cross-country trails.) Located on the south summit of Loup Loup pass.

Pro Tip: For the record, I’m used to driving in snow and I’ve driven my fair share of wacky ski-hill access roads. That said, the portion of SR-20 leading to Loup Loup pass and ski hill is not for the faint of heart, or driver of non-winter-friendly vehicles. Make sure you have chains and/or AWD during the colder months.

Another route out of Twisp is via SR-153. This path heads east towards a more arid region along the Columbia River before meeting with US-97. If you plan to head further north from Twisp, SR-20 is the most direct route, but heading down SR-153 allows a look at a beautiful part of the Columbia River as well as a visit to the nearby towns of Pateros and Brewster.

Located directly on the Columbia River at an especially wide bend in the river, Pateros is a nice place to enjoy a bit of sun. Set at the confluence of the Columbia and Methow Rivers, it is a particularly excellent spot for all water-based endeavors. Nearby Brewster offers many outdoor opportunities and sweeping views of the river. A few options to consider should you be visiting the area:

  • If you’d like to wake up to a view of the beautiful Columbia River, be sure to book Howards on the River for your overnight stay. In addition to the beautiful view, they feature a boat launch to help with your pursuit of watersports. Hit up their Super Stop for gas and groceries and adjacent restaurant, Rivers by Ed’s Mudville for a tasty breakfast, lunch or dinner.
  • Featuring scratch-baked goods, coffee, pizza and more, The Sweetriver Bakery is a great place to stop in the town center. They also feature live music in the summer months on their back patio. (Open daily, 7am – 7pm)
  • Stop in at the Pateros Museum for a look into the history of the area. (City Hall entrance – Open Monday – Friday, 8am – 4:30pm) Don’t miss the Methow Monument Native American sculpture park located behind City Hall near the river. For a more in-depth look into local Native American history and heritage, visit Fort Okanogan Interpretive Center in nearby Brewster. Managed by the Confederated Tribes of the Colville Reservation, the center features an emphasis on the Okanogan Tribe. (Open Wednesday – Friday, 8:30am – 4pm from May – September)
  • If you’re looking for golf action, there are great options in the area. Along with golf, the Pateros Alta Lake Golf Resort features lodging and a café by the name of Scratch. (Café open daily 7am – 3pm, 4pm on Friday/Saturday) Located in Brewster, the Gamble Sands course and their Danny Boy Bar & Grill are also a great choice. (Open daily, 60-min after sunrise – 10pm. Winter hours vary – check online) Lodging can be found at The Inn at Gamble Sands, which features a pool, fire pits and beautiful views of the Columbia River.
  • If you’d prefer to rough it a bit, nearby Alta Lake State Park offers camping, hiking, fishing, wind-surfing and swimming. (Discover Pass required for parking and permit required for boating.)
  • Should you be visiting during the winter, ample snowmobiling and x-country skiing opportunities can be found in the Black Canyon and South Fork Gold Creek sno-park areas. (Sno-Park permits required)
  • The towns of Pateros and Brewster and relatively small, but they do feature some big celebrations. Going since 1947, the Apple Pie Jamboree takes place the third weekend in July and is a great opportunity to indulge your love of pie as well as jet-ski races, fireworks and more. Taking advantage of that big bend in the river, the Pateros Hydro Races feature old-school hydroplanes in all their speedy glory. (August 26-28, 2022)

The most common route when heading north from Pateros and Brewster is via US-97. If you’re partial to roads less traveled, hit up Old Highway 97 off of US-97 in the Brewster area. It’s a lovely, tranquil route with acres of cherry orchards, waving fields of grain and sweeping vistas. That said, there was a bit of road construction on my last trip and several miles of it were unpaved gravel. It was well worth it, however, to experience the area from a less modern perspective. It was very easy to imagine riding horseback through the area en route to the next outpost…

Along the route, there are some excellent places to stop for a rest, enjoy the views and sample the area’s bounty. A couple of options to check out on your trek through the backroads:

  • Pull over in tiny Malott and visit the charming Malott Country Store. Along with all-day breakfast and desserts, they feature coffee, groceries, ice cream and more! (Open Monday – Friday, 9am – 7pm, Saturday, 10am – 7pm and Sunday, 11am – 6pm)
  • Don’t miss a stop at Smallwood Farms, located on SR-20 after the merge with Old Highway 97. Along with being a working farm, it’s a restaurant, fruit stand and grocery/gift store – and they have plenty of picnic space! If you’re into cherries, you’ll be extremely happy with your visit. (in season, of course) The store/restaurant is open seasonally – check online for hours.

After adventuring on Old Highway 97 and merging onto SR-20, it’s not too long before you’re back on the modern US-97. Heading further north on US-97 will soon bring you to the county seat of Okanogan County, fittingly named Okanogan. Established in 1888, Okanogan has long been at the center of local area commerce and culture. Located along the Okanogan River, it continues to serve as an important part of Okanogan County industry and interests.

One of the very interesting stories to be found in Okanogan involves the life and work of artist, Frank Matsura. After emigrating from Japan to the US in the early 1900s, he answered a Seattle newspaper ad and was hired at a hotel in nearby Conconully. During his time at the hotel, he spent his spare time photographing the Okanogan area and eventually moved into Okanogan proper in 1907. He became well known as both a photographer and muralist and contributed greatly to the commemoration of early Okanogan life and heritage. In January of 2022, a 60-foot mural was discovered during renovation of a downtown Okanogan building. (c. 1907) The hand-painted mural is being potentially attributed to Frank Matsura and the building’s new owners are currently working to restore the mural.

To explore the culture, history and industry of Okanogan and surrounding areas, consider these great options for your next visit:

  • Learn more about Frank Matsura and the early days of Okanogan with a visit to the Okanogan County Historical Museum in the downtown area. In addition to the museum, there is a firehouse exhibit next door as well an outdoor, historic Okanogan exhibit. (Open Memorial Day weekend – Labor Day weekend, call for hours/days)
  • For local festivities, entertainment and all things fried, head to the Okanogan County Fair & Rodeo every September and revel in this celebration of the county. If you’re in need of some new boots or a cowboy hat to pep up your rodeo-attending attire, stop in at longtime Okanogan staple, Rawson’s and get yourself outfitted.
  • Enjoy the area bounty and explore offerings from local artisans at the Okanogan Valley Farmers Market. (Saturdays, May thru October, 9am – 1pm. Hot tip: There is also a Tuesday version in nearby Omak from 3:30 – 6:30pm, June thru October.)

Important to any adventure is a great meal and a cozy place to stay. Okanogan can certainly help you out in both departments. On your next visit, check out these fine establishments:

  • For hearty panini sandwiches and fresh salads, head to The 509 – just good food for a tasty lunch. Monday – Friday, 10:30am – 2pm. Closed Sat/Sun
  • If a place features “wieners and wine,” I’m in! The Dawg House, located in the heart of downtown features both as well as delicious BBQ and a respectable tap list – not to mention mouthwatering cheesecake. They also feature live music on weekends and great outdoor seating. (Wednesday – Saturday, 4-8pm)
  • If you’re in the mood for a hearty breakfast or juicy burger, stop by local fav, the Stockyard Café and fill up. Also, they have crinkle fries. Very important to note. (Open Tuesday – Saturday, 7am – 2pm)
  • I require a good cup of coffee (or three) in the morning and drive-thru spot, Free Bird Espresso fully came to the rescue on my recent visit. (Open Monday – Friday, 5:45am – 6pm, Saturday/Sunday, 6:45am – 5pm)
  • There are Vrbo and Airbnb options in the greater Okanogan area, but on my last visit I stayed at the local Quality Inn & Suites. It’s relatively basic, but reasonably priced and the staff was very friendly and helpful. Located close to US-97, it’s well situated as a base for exploring the area.

Not far north on US-97 lies the largest city in Okanogan County, Omak and its suburb, North Omak. The area is famous for its yearly Omak Stampede, but there are many great ways to enjoy the area. Located in the foothills of the Okanogan Highlands, a hilly, mountain range spread across Canada, Washington and Northern Idaho, the dark skies alone are worth a visit. It is also a great base of operations for your northern Washington adventures.

Okanogan is a big county and you’ve likely worked up a big appetite if you’ve made it all the way up to Omak. There are many great options to stave off the hunger on your next visit:

  • Check out the fresh bread and home-style cooking made with locally sourced ingredients in this classic Omak location. (c. 1906) The Breadline Café offers tasty lunch and dinner and is open Tuesday – Friday, 11am – 8pm.
  • Located on the main route through town, Magoo’s Family Restaurant features classic, diner breakfasts all day and hearty lunch options. (Open daily at 7am, 11am on Wednesdays.)
  • Stop in at family-run Red Rooster Grill for classic diner dishes with an international flair. Located in the heart of downtown Omak and open daily from 8am – 9:30pm.
  • Head to the hip, downtown spot, The Loggerhead for artisan pizza, good beer and a fun atmosphere. This family friendly location in downtown Omak is typically open Wednesday – Saturday, 3-9:30pm. (Check online as they are open seasonally – and for the occasional special event in the off-season.)
  • These guys were closed on my last visit, but I WILL be back and I’m planning on a tasty visit. Los Gallos, a restaurant and bar located in downtown Omak features not only Mexican fare, but Chinese as well! That’s a dream fusion, in my foodie opinion. Open daily, 11am – 8pm (11pm, Thursday – Sunday)
  • Located just out of North Omak and flanked by orchards and farmland, the Rockwall Cellars Winery is a nice spot to relax with a glass of wine. In the summer, their tasting room is open Monday – Saturday, 11am – 6pm. During January – April, it’s open Thursday – Saturday, 11am – 5pm. They also host live music and feature “Wine Down Wednesdays” from7-9pm. Bring your own food – there’s a BBQ available for grilling.

I will admit to enjoying a visit here and there to a good casino. Video poker? Yes, please. Is that a Zillion Gators slot machine I see there?? Move out of my way! (Damn. Now I have the ridiculous Zillion Gators theme song stuck in my head. I have no one to blame but myself.) If you’re visiting the Okanogan/Omak area, smack dab in the middle is the 12 Tribes Resort Casino, operated by the Confederated Tribes of the Colville Reservation. Featuring a large array of slots and table games, the casino also hosts several onsite restaurants, hotel and RV lodging and spa facilities. The casino is a hot spot for nightlife and entertainment in the area and a fun evening out. That said, they didn’t actually have Zillion Gators. I looked… Maybe next time?

While there is much to do in the Omak area year-round, one of the most popular attractions takes place over the second weekend in August. The Omak Stampede has been entertaining visitors since 1933 and features western and native art shows, the Indian Encampment & Pow Wow and the famous Suicide Race. Whether or not you’re a fan of horses and their riders careening down an insanely steep trail in the Suicide Race, there are many sights, sounds and tasty treats to enjoy at the Omak Stampede. (August 11-14, 2022 – Always second weekend in August)

If don’t happen to be around during the Stampede festivities, consider these entertaining options for your visit:

  • Featuring first-run films in a classic movie house setting, the Omak & Mirage Theaters in downtown Omak are the places to be. They also host drive-in movies at the Stampede Arena during the summer months.
  • While currently closed during Covid times, the Omak Performing Arts Center hopes to be back soon. Featuring all varieties of performance, both local and touring, they are the premier destination for the performing arts in the area.
  • If you’re looking for a unique getaway, head to Pine Stump Farms­ for one of their package deals. They feature a Country Weekend that comes with food, lodging and excursions of your choice. (Horseback riding, swimming, canoeing or hiking) as well as horseback adventures of varying length. And be sure to try their tasty cheeses on your visit!
  • If enjoying the natural beauty of the area is on your agenda, check out Omak lake, Washington’s largest salt lake. Located in the foothills of the Okanogan Highlands, the area features beaches, camping, fishing, swimming, boating and more. This beautiful area in Colville Federated Tribes land is well worth a visit. (Camping and boat launch permits required.) Also found in the Omak Lake area is the gravity-defying, 40-ton behemoth known as the Omak Balance Rock. You can hold it up with one finger!

If the laid-back scene in Okanogan and Omak still isn’t mellow enough, consider heading towards Conconully on Conconully Road just out of Okanogan. Set in a beautiful mountain valley, Conconully is surrounded by forest, stunningly dark skies, two lakes and an endless variety of outdoor opportunity. Home to snowmobiling, camping, hunting, fishing and more, it’s the perfect place to commune with the sportsperson in you.

Most importantly, it’s home to the annual Outhouse Races. (The 2022 races took place on January 15th) If you’re not inspired to build your own outhouse racer, line up along the course as outhouses careen down the street. True story! Check out the short film, “Fast Crapper” for an in-depth look into this very excellent Conconully tradition.

Whether you’re in the area to enjoy the outdoors or the outhouses, Conconully has some food and lodging options to help you appreciate your stay:

  • Hit up the Conconully General Store for all your gas, groceries, gifts, and treat needs. (And more!) They’ll also be hosting a local vendor market beginning the weekend of April 23rd, 2022.
  • If you’re up for hearty burgers or pizza, stop in at the Red Rock Saloon and trade some fishing tales with your buddies. Open Tuesday – Saturday, 4pm – 2am. Family friendly. (Closed Sunday/Monday)
  • Enjoy a bit of classic breakfast and pub fare at the Sit ‘n Bull Saloon. Open Monday – Thursday, 9am – 11pm, Friday/Saturday, 8am – 11pm and Sunday, 9am – 10pm. Family friendly.
  • If you happen to be in town on the fourth Saturday in September, don’t miss the Stew & Brew event. A mere $15 buys you tastings of several stews and local brews.
  • Learn more about this tiny community at the Conconully Area Historical Museum. (Open weekends and holidays, 10am – 4pm, Memorial Day to Labor Day and by appointment.)
  • There are plenty of great lodging and camping areas in and around Conconully. The Liar’s Cove Resort, Shady Pines Resort and Gibson’s North Fork Lodge all feature cabins and access to local lakes, fishing, boating and more.
  • Also featuring five cabins as well as RV and campsite accommodations, Conconully State Park features ample boating, camping, fishing, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and snowmobiling opportunities. (Discover Pass required. Fishing and boating permits required. Park facilities closed during the winter.)
  • Heading deeper into the forest surrounding Concunully, you’ll find the Salmon Meadows Campground. This area provides access to the Angel Pass Trail as well access to many snowmobiling and horse trails.
US 97
Okanogan Highlands and fruit on US 97

Heading closer to the Canadian border via US-97 will bring you to the tiny town of Tonasket. Fruit is big business in Okanogan County and Tonasket is an important player in the scene. Celebrate their part in one of Washington’s most important industries at these Tonasket spots:

  • Located off of Highway 7, Apple Cart Fruit features farm-fresh fruit throughout the year. Apples, cherries, apricots, peaches, nectarines and more! Open daily, 8am – 5pm, closed Sundays.
  • If you’re in the mood for homemade pie made with local fruit, stop by the quaint Shannon’s Place and dig in. If you need more than pie, check out their hearty breakfasts and weekend dinners. Open daily from 7:00am – 2:30pm. Friday/Saturday, open for dinner 4:30-7pm.
  • Stock up on all things natural and organic at the Tonasket Natural Foods Co-op. They feature an in-store deli with soup and sandwiches, local produce, meats, eggs and more. Open Monday – Friday, 9am – 7pm, Saturday, 9am – 6pm and Sunday, 11am – 4pm.
  • If you’re in the market for antiques or an eclectic gift, stop by The Olde Creamery and find your bliss. Open Monday – Saturday, 9am – 5:30pm, 8:30pm on Saturdays.
  • Buy directly from local artisans and farmers at the seasonal Tonasket Farmers Market. (Thursdays, 2-6pm, Mid May-October)
  • As is the case across Okanogan County, there are many beautiful areas to explore just out of town. Head to Bonaparte Lake and the Bonaparte Lake Campground for an outdoor adventure. The lake is very popular for fishing, including ice fishing in the winter. Along with stellar fishing, the campground features a boat launch, camping, swimming and hiking. (Fishing license required.)
  • For stunning hiking and very cool rock climbing options, hit up the Whistler Canyon Trailhead and take in the beautiful scenery. (Trailhead entrance located just off US-97.)
  • Should you feel like exploring the ghost towns of Okanogan County, head east on SR-20 out of Tonasket towards Wauconda and Old Wauconda. Outside of visiting the ghosts of Washington’s past, there isn’t much to do, but the drive is interesting and fairly quiet. Unfortunately, not to be confused with Wakanda.

If you’ve made it as far as Oroville, it’s only a few more miles to the Canadian border. You’ve also been traversing the beautiful Okanogan Trails Scenic Byway for the past 80 miles from Pateros and as you’ve seen during your trek, this part of the state packs in quite a bit of scenic wonder. If you’re looking to add more road trip street-cred to your adventure, check out the Highland Historic Loop (features northern Okanogan County and includes parts of adjacent Grant County) and the Many Lakes Historic Loop. (out of Oroville, heads to Nighthawk ghost town and on to Loomis and Conconully)

Oroville is the last town before the Canadian border. On my recent visit, the border was still closed due to Covid, but when open, it’s a very low-key affair to cross borders. None of those multiple lanes and gates; One lane and one gate. Voila! You’re in Canada! (As long as you have your passport or Washington State enhanced ID, of course.) Osoyoos is the closest Canadian town to the border and Penticton is just up from there. If you happened to have read my first Puerto Vallarta article, Penticton is home to the awesome couple I met during my adventures, Jorgen and Jen. Last I knew, Jorgen was head of the ski team at Penticton area Apex Mountain Resort, a ski hill I’d very much like to visit one of these days. I never cease to be amazed at just how small a world we all share.

Even during Covid times, it’s been possible to spend the day adventuring into Canada. Granted, it’s via water and you can’t legally touch the shore, but it’s still an international adventure! Spanning the border between the US and Canada, the international waters of Osoyoos Lake provide many relaxing opportunities for both Americans and Canadians. It’s possible to traverse the entire lake without a passport as long as you don’t go to land. Put in at the lovely Osoyoos Lake Veteran’s Memorial Park in Oroville and spend the day cruising the lake. In addition to a boat launch, the park also features fishing, swimming and camping.

When visiting the park, be sure to check out the private pond off to the side of the parking area. The number of trout in that pond – and the amount of commotion they were causing during my visit – was fantastic! (But it’s a private pond, so please don’t drop in a pole.) There was also an amazing variety of birds in the area. For more info about birding in the area, check out the Cascade Loop portion of the Audubon Society Great Washington Birding Trail.

In addition to Oroville’s dining opportunities, there are also some great ways to sample from the area’s wine scene. A few of the spots to help you enjoy your stay:

  • For beautiful views and a little vino, head to Esther Bricques Winery & Vineyard, located off US-97 between Tonasket and Oroville. They’re open daily from 1-6pm as well as Thursday evenings at 6pm for live music and tastings. (Thursday night events are year-round, but call ahead to make sure they’re open for afternoon tastings as they might be out in the vineyard.)
  • It was a beautiful sunny day on my last visit to Oroville and a stop at Taber’s Taste of Summer was the perfect way to celebrate. Set adjacent to a beautiful cherry orchard, this seasonal fruit stand, greenhouse and gift shop is a must-stop. The lovely owners also host “Wine Wednesdays” from 6-9pm with live music and food, which is a great opportunity to enjoy wine from their Copper Mountain Vineyards. (Opens in May, 10am – 5pm, fall hours vary seasonally)
  • While not a wine shop, Akins Fresh Market offers a good selection of local wine and beer as well as tasty treats for your picnic basket. (Open daily, 8am – 8pm) And don’t miss a stop at adjacent Country Store for all sorts of things you didn’t know you needed. Like my new “I heart Chickens” hoodie, for instance. (Open Monday – Saturday, 8am – 7pm, Sunday, 9am – 6pm)
  • Should you be craving a frosty beer rather than a glass of red, stop in at the Pastime Brewery and wet your whistle. (That said, they feature local wines as well!) In addition to a good tap list, they also feature house-smoked meats with homemade sauces and locally sourced ingredients. (Thursday – Monday, noon – 8pm. Closed Tuesday/Wednesday.)

On your next Oroville visit, why not enjoy some of that beautiful lake and mountain scene with a stay at one of the many local lodging establishments:

  • If you’ve been exploring the area around Osoyoos Lake, no doubt you’ve noticed how many homes dot the shoreline. If you’d like to spend more time on and around the lake, check out the Veranda Beach Resort. This upscale resort area is directly on the lake and features cottages, boating slips, a diner, grocery store and Veranda Beach Cellars winery.
  • Located west of Tonasket and Oroville, the Wannacut Lake Resort offers cabins, cottages and campsites on the lake. They have electric boat rentals available and a newly renovated restaurant opening sometime this year. (Opens for 2022 in on April 20th)
  • For a charming B&B experience in a beautiful ranch setting, head to Buena Vista Lodging in the North Oroville area for a relaxing weekend.
  • Work off some of that wining and dining on the Similkameen River Trail, a former railroad line located just west of Oroville off of US-97. Enjoy hiking, biking and gorgeous views on this easy-going paved/graveled trail.
Osoyoos Lake
Private homes and resorts dot the shores of Osoyoos Lake

Okanogan County is a jackpot for ghost towns and opportunities to take a step back in time abound. For a particularly fascinating look into county, state and international history, head to tiny Molson, a ghost town and museum located up Chesaw Road out of Oroville. The drive alone is worth the effort for its rolling hills, winding roads and absolute, complete solitude. Additionally, Molson sits very close to the Canadian border and there’s a country road (9 Mile Road) which parallels the country-dividing train tracks just out of Molson, all the way back down to Chesaw Road and into Oroville. Such an amazing part of the state! (Pro Tip: Cell reception cuts in and out on these roads and there isn’t a lot of traffic. Make sure you have a paper map on hand and know how to change a tire.)

The history you’re able to see along the drive to Molson is noteworthy, but you’ll want to grab your camera and jump out of the car as soon as you enter this tiny town. The first area you’ll come upon is the site of Old Molson and its now ghostly visage. Park in the small area just after turning into the site and get ready to transport back in time.

The buildings of Old Molson are largely intact with interiors which have been lost to the sands of time as well as portions featuring a museum-like format. This struck an engaging balance between stumbling upon a long-lost secret and handily learning all about it with an informative exhibit. I very much enjoyed exploring this slice of NW history and look forward to spending more time learning about the area on future visits.

Since Molson is very close to what is now the American/Canadian border, the area has quite a bit of shared history with our Canadian neighbors. As you drive into Old Molson, both flags are flying and after exploring the town, it’s an appropriate statement. So much trade, commerce and shared resources were a regular part of Molson’s day to day life and the international lines were often very blurred.

After roaming around Old Molson, do not miss a stop at the Molson Museum, located just past the ghost town. Originally the area’s schoolhouse, it has been closed for that purpose since 1969 and is now a fascinating museum dedicated to local history. The displays are well put together, charming and paint a very vivid picture of Molson life and times. An added bonus was the incredibly helpful and informative volunteer museum staff. They were very happy to discuss the area as well as serve up 50-cent coffee and brownies. I want all of my museum trips to be just like that! (Open daily from 10am – 5pm – Memorial Day thru Labor Day)

If you’re making the trek in and around Molson, there are many other points of history and interest to find in the area. Get out your map and find your way to these great spots on your next visit:

  • If you happen to be visiting Molson over the last weekend in August, head to the Molson Grange Hall for the popular Highland Stitchers Show & Sale. Beautiful, handmade quilts are on display and for sale! (Last Saturday in August, 9am – 3pm)
  • Taking place in Chesaw, every July 4th since 1942, the Chesaw Rodeo is a time-honored tradition in the area. Classic rodeo events, a parade, food and more! Another fun summer event in Chesaw is Chesaw Hot August Nights, featuring a classic car show and more. (The event was cancelled in 2021, but typically takes place the last Saturday in August)
  • If you’re visiting during winter and want to get in some skiing, make the trek up to cozy Sitzmark Ski Area. Follow Chesaw Road off of US-97 in Oroville up to Havillah Road and enjoy one of Washington’s old-school ski hills. (Open Thursday – Sunday. Lifts open 10am – 4pm. Ski hut and lodge open at 9am.)
  • For a bit of cross-country skiing on a network of groomed trails complete with warming hut, head to the Highlands Nordic Sno-park, located off of US-97 in Tonasket and up the Tonasket-Havillah Road. (Or take US-97 to Chesaw Road and onto Tonasket-Havillah Road.) A non-motorized Sno-Park Permit is required.
  • If you haven’t fulfilled your ghost town quota, head to Nighthawk, home to the oldest mining claim in the state. (c. 1860) Located on the opposite side of Oroville as Molson, take the Loomis-Oroville Road, west out of Oroville.

Yowsa! Okanogan County is a very large area to cover… But we did it! For the sake of wrapping up this particular Washington State odyssey, I’m going to save the spectacular Grand Coulee Dam for my upcoming Grant County adventure. Located in both Okanogan and Grant Counties, Grand Coulee Dam is an adventure not to be missed, but we’ll spend some quality time there during my Grant County travels. I promise!

And with that, we’ve come to the end of the road for Okanogan County. Well, not really, as we just left off in the middle of nowhere near Molson. Still a few miles to go before we get back home… Just as there are many ways to get in and around Okanogan County, there are equal amounts of beautiful routes to get you home. For this outing, I traveled back south on US-97 towards Pateros and Brewster, over to Blewett Pass and back towards I-90 and Seattle. It was a great drive! Bottom line, any path you take in and out of Okanogan County will inevitably be filled with beauty and adventure. It’s just a Washington State fact!

Until next time – Happy trails!

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Wind through the backroads of Okanogan County with my SPOTIFY PLAYLIST

  • Medicine – Grace Potter & The Nocturnals (from Grace Potter & The Nocturnals)
  • The Long Way Home – Norah Jones (from Feels Like Home)
  • These Days – Jackson Browne (from For Everyman)
  • You Can Close Your Eyes – James Taylor (from Mud Slide Slim and the Blue Horizon)
  • Right Down the Line – Gerry Rafferty (from City to City)
  • Wish the Wind Would Blow Me – Bob Schneider (from Burden of Proof)
  • I Gotta Get Drunk – The Little Willies (from The Little Willies)
  • Can’t Find My Way Home – Ellen McIlwaine (from Up From the Skies: The Polydor Years)
  • Fruits of My Labor – Lucina Williams (from World Without Tears)
  • A Little Too Soon to Say – Jackson Browne (from A Little Too Soon to Say)
  • Bigger Boat (feat. Randy Newman) – Brandy Clark (from Your Life Is A Record)
  • Mountain Greenery – Kat Edmonson, Vince Giordano & The Nighthawks (from Café Society)
  • Baker Street – Shawn Colvin, David Crosby (from Uncovered)
  • I Wish I Was the Moon – Neko Case (from Blacklisted)
  • Just Like Heaven – Katie Melua (from Piece by Piece)
  • I Make the Dough, You Get the Glory – Kathleen Edwards (from Asking for Flowers)
  • Wildflowers – The Wailin’ Jennys (from Fifteen)
  • September Fields – Frazey Ford (from Indian Ocean)
  • I Must Be in A Good Place Now – Fruit Bats, Vetiver (from In Real Life – Live at Spacebomb Studios)
  • Keep Me in Your Heart – Warren Zevon (from The Wind)
  • White Horses – Darlingside (from Birds Say)
  • Take the Long Way Home – Supertramp (from Breakfast in America)
Pine Cones
Happy trails to you!

Check out more I Ate the State adventures!

I Ate the State – Pacific County

Welcome back! It’s been far too long… I know we’re not running at full-capacity yet, in so many ways, but it feels like things are starting to look up again. Similar to spring flowers seeking the sun, I feel us starting to stretch our limbs, looking hopefully to the parting clouds. And to perhaps begin thinking about adventuring beyond our neighborhoods again…

It’s been an incredibly challenging time for the world – and it’s not over. There has been much loss, heartbreak and discord, but there has also been hope – and it’s growing. Neighbors have reached out to each other. Local businesses have done their best, against great hardship, to continue to serve their communities. The medical community, scientists, teachers, grocery store workers, restaurant staff, postal workers… SO many heroes have worked tirelessly to keep us safe, nourished and healthy. 

I actually visited Pacific County and started writing this article a little over a year ago, just before we all went into hibernation. I have very recently returned to Pacific County and have to say it was amazing. Yes, masks, outdoor dining and social distancing were definitely in rightful play, but to be able to walk along the beach and gaze out at the ocean was so very welcome and rejuvenating.

Aside from masked visits to local shops and take-away from local restaurants, I’ve been pretty sequestered within my two-bedroom apartment for the past year. Granted, I am incredibly grateful to have been able to work from home, but I’m looking forward to a time when a trip to the grocery store isn’t my big social outing. I’m excited to hang out with my friends and family somewhere other than on a Zoom call. I’m dreaming of seeing someone smile at me and being able to smile back, unmasked. I’m looking forward to hugs…

I know many of these cherished activities will be making a comeback, but in the meantime, I plan to continue to mask up, frequently wash my hands and do my best to be respectful and thankful to everyone who is working so hard to bring us back to some point of normalcy. We are all in this together and will persevere only by working together, respecting one another and honoring all of the hard work of our heroes.

COVID-19 Travel Advisory: Please review COVID-19 alerts and regulations ahead of your travels. Refer to CDC guidelines along with local and state guidelines and wear a mask whenever suggested or required.

Me and Sporty Spice, enjoying the sunset on Long Beach

And now, without further ado, onward to beautiful Pacific County!

There are very few beaches on the planet long enough and wide enough to easily accommodate beach-combing, horseback riding and an actual state (sand) highway, but Pacific County in southwestern Washington covers the bill. Add in shorelines brimming with some of the country’s most delicious seafood, lovely coastal wetlands and sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean and you won’t want to leave. Pacific County is a veritable treasure trove of delicious fare and unique adventure opportunities.

Established as one of the state’s oldest counties in 1851 and integral to Native American life for millennia prior, Pacific County holds a key place in the development of the United States. It was at Cape Disappointment, where the mighty Columbia River meets the Pacific Ocean, the Lewis and Clark Expedition finally completed its mission in the fall of 1805. Originally part of the Oregon Territory, Pacific County found itself carved out of nearby Lewis County to officially become part of the Washington Territory. Even though it maintains a relatively small population in present day, the impact and continuing contributions of this tiny county cannot be underestimated in the grand scheme of the present-day United States.

While Pacific County is somewhat tucked away along the southwestern coast of the state, it is still fairly accessible. The route I typically favor takes me south on I-5 to US-101 (Exit 104, in Olympia) and on towards Aberdeen in Grays Harbor County via SR-8 and US-12. Once in Aberdeen, I head further southwest on SR-105 towards Grayland and North Cove. (With stops at Westport Winery and Cranberry Road Winery on the way out of Grays Harbor County. I mean, they’re right there, conveniently along the way…)

In general, I-5 accommodates the main arterials into Pacific County. It’s possible to hook up with US-101 further north near Olympic National Park and enjoy a beautiful drive down the coast. (All the way into the Los Angeles area, in fact!) Additional routes off of I-5 include US-12 (Exit 88 near Tenino), SR-6 (Exit 77 in Chehalis) and SR-4 (Exit 40 in Kelso). Any route you choose will inevitably feature mile after mile of beautiful scenery as you make your way to the coast. You can’t go wrong!

Driving south along SR-105 is an excellent example of the extensive, beautiful scenery, but as every rose has its thorn, the Pacific County coast has its battle with erosion. Portions of SR-105 have had to be relocated further inland over the years, along with many residences, buildings and a lighthouse being lost to the encroaching waters. It is quite appropriate the area has earned the nickname of Washaway Beach. The erosion is particularly visible driving through the North Cove area where the tiny North Cove Pioneer Cemetery had to be moved across the highway in 1977 due to erosion.

Not too far past North Cove on SR-105 is the exit to Tokeland Road and its namesake, the coastal community of Tokeland. Named for Chief Toke, the area maintains its strong connection to the Shoalwater Bay Tribe. A few miles down Tokeland Road, the Shoalwater Bay Casino (Daily, 10am – 12am; 2am Friday/Saturday) greets visitors with food and gaming as well as lodging at the adjacent Tradewinds on the Bay. Directly across the street lie more food options at the North Cove Bar & Grill (Currently Friday – Sunday, noon – 8pm; 7pm on Sunday) along with gas, food and conveniences at Georgetown Gas Station.

One place not to miss in the Tokeland area is the historic Tokeland Hotel and Restaurant. (On the National Register of Historic Places) Built in 1885 and the oldest hotel in the state, they regularly feature events such as Clam Jam, Oysterfest, Tokefest and more. In early May, along with local galleries and businesses, they host the popular Tokeland North Cove Art Studio Tour. Many of the local events were cancelled in 2020 due to COVID-19, but will hopefully return in 2021. (Note: The Tokeland Hotel is reopening 6/1/21. Restaurant currently open for take-out, Friday – Sunday, 4-6pm.)

Situated on Willapa Bay, Tokeland is well-known for its contribution to the country’s seafood supply. Nearby Nelson Crab Inc. was in fact the first cannery on the west coast to can crab beginning in 1934 and continues the practice today. Operating out of a new building at the Port of Willapa Harbor and Tokeland Marina, they also feature a seafood counter, coffee service, ample seating and a fun gift shop featuring local artists and goods. (Daily, 9am – 5pm) If you happen to arrive via boat, public moorage is available as well as a RV park and boat ramp – and you can throw your own crab pots off of the public fishing pier!

Back on SR-105, my next destination was Raymond, the largest town in Pacific County. Along the way, I was drawn in by the beautiful scenery of the Smith Creek State Wildlife Recreation Area. Located across the bay from Tokeland, the area sports beautiful views and sweeping wetlands with great fishing and bird-watching opportunities. I was truly mesmerized by the views looking out over Willapa Bay and very glad I made time to take in the scene. 

While Raymond holds court as Pacific County’s largest town, it maintains a very homey, small-town vibe. Nestled just inland of Willapa Bay on the Willapa River, it enjoys rolling foothills as well as the coastal flavor of nearby waterways. When driving around the Raymond area, keep an eye out for the many steel statues along US-101, SR-6 and strategically placed throughout town. Made to depict local wildlife and Raymond residents, some of them are strikingly life-like; especially as seen around dusk. (I could’ve sworn those deer were real!)

Historically known for its lumber industry, Raymond also has an interesting artistic past. Northwest grunge gods, Nirvana, played their first gig at a Raymond house party in 1987. Additionally, my very favorite holiday tune, The Christmas Song (Chestnuts roasting on An Open Fire) was co-written by Raymond-born, award-winning composer, writer and producer, Robert Wells along with prolific musician, Mel Tormé. That’s a pretty eclectic and cool mash-up of musical history!

On your next visit to Raymond, take a little time to explore the continuing artistic legacy of the area as well as the beauty of its surroundings:

  • Learn more about Raymond’s history and the popular mode of transportation of days gone by at the well-curated Northwest Carriage Museum. (Open daily, 10am – 4pm) Don’t miss experiencing Raymond’s history of seafaring transportation at the Willapa Seaport Museum located directly next door. (Closed Sunday/Monday) And top it off with a stop at the Willapa Bay Public Market for unique finds from local artisans. (Friday/Saturday, 10am – 4pm)
  • Included on the National Register of Historic Places, the lovely Raymond Theater (c. 1928) is still entertaining Raymond residents and features local theater as well as live music and movies. Just down the street and also listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Tudor-style Raymond Timberland Library (c. 1929) is a charming part of the downtown core and a great place to relax with good book.
  • The Raymond area is filled with beautiful river viewing opportunities and the Willapa Hills Trail is an excellent way to enjoy the scene. (Hook up with the 56-mile trail at Riverfront Park near the Northwest Carriage Museum) If you’re up for a bit of kayaking or paddle-boarding action, hit up local Willapa Paddle Adventures for Willapa River escapades. Or shenanigans. Your call.

After your Raymond adventuring, check out the local foodie scene and refuel for continuing exploration. A few ideas to get you started:

  • Not only can you grab a tasty burger and brew – or an insane bloody Mary – at Pitchwood Inn & Alehouse, they also have cozy rooms should you like to extend your Raymond exploits. (Alehouse open from noon to 9pm, 11pm on Friday/Saturday, 8pm on Sunday. Closed Mondays)
  • Featuring classic diner fare along with specialties like their stuffed sandwiches and fresh Willapa Bay oysters, Slater’s Diner is a great local mainstay. (Monday – Thursday, 11am – 7pm, 8pm Friday/Saturday. Noon to 7pm on Sunday)
  • Poutine, tots, brats, hand-dipped corndogs, beer and mead? What?? I’m in! I didn’t get a chance to stop at Wildman Brewing Company, but I’m making a point to visit on my next trip. (Family friendly. Open Tuesday – Thursday, 4pm – 8pm, 9pm on Friday. 11am – 9pm on Saturday, 7pm on Sunday. Closed Mondays.)
  • Drinking delicious wine often makes me say “WooHoo!” so it only seems appropriate a winery should make it their namesake. Check out WooHoo Winery for delicious wine and be sure to try their seasonal Glühwein. (Open Saturdays Noon – 6pm. They also have a tasting room in Leavenworth open Friday – Sunday)
  • If you’re visiting during a summer weekend, head to Smith Creek Blueberry Farm and stock up on u-pick blueberries. (Mmmm… Now I want blueberry pie…) Another great summer event in late August can be found just east on SR-6 in Menlo. Head to the Pacific County Fairgrounds and enjoy all manner of crazy fair food, goods and specialties from all around Pacific County and more. (Hopefully returning in August 2021)

From Raymond, it’s easy to travel southeast on SR-6 to meet back up with I-5 in the Chehalis area in Lewis County. There are a few tiny towns to drive through along the way, but it won’t take long before you meet up with Western Washington’s main arterial. On this journey, however, I chose to hook up with US-101 to head south towards the nearby town of South Bend.  

Billed as the Oyster Capital of the World and now serving as the county seat, South Bend provides 25% of the nation’s oyster harvest out of adjacent Willapa Bay. Oysterville originally served as the county seat until 1893 when disgruntled South Bend residents navigated steam boats up Willapa Bay and absconded with the county records. The pirated records were then relocated to South Bend where they have remained ever since. The scandal! 

For the scoop on Pacific County’s interesting past, stop in at the Pacific County Heritage Museum, located directly off of US-101 in downtown South Bend. (11am – 4pm, March through September and 12pm to 3pm during the winter months.) For more Pacific County information, pay a visit to the historic Pacific County Courthouse and take in the beautiful art glass dome. (c. 1910 and on the National Register of Historic Places)

Even if you are not a lover of oysters, there are many fine meals to be found in South Bend. The scene is a little quieter during the winter months, but there are always great dining options to explore.

  • Head to the casual River View Dining for a nice view of the Willapa River and great food. They do feature the local hero, the Goose Point oyster, but don’t miss their fish-n-chips and burgers. (11am – 8pm daily, 11:30 on Sunday. Closed Mondays.)
  • Oysters are in the name at the Chester Club & Oyster Bar and they represent them well, but they also have several other great dishes on the menu and regularly feature live music. (Daily, 10am – 2am)
  • Take your German specialties to go or grab a spot in the cozy seating area, but do make a stop at Jayden’s German Store & Deli. Featuring a great selection of European sweets, meats and more, they most importantly carry an impressive selection of goods from Germany. Mmmm… (Open daily, 11am – 5pm, 6pm on Friday/Saturday)
  • Newer to the South Bend foodie scene and offering great brew along with hand-tossed pizza and fresh oysters, the Willapa Brewing Company is an excellent addition to the South Bend scene. Check out the Bone River Oyster Stout – made with fresh oysters! (Open daily, noon – 7pm, 8pm on Friday/Saturday. Closed Tuesdays.)
  • I don’t think they have any drinks made with oysters, but you never know. For great, non-oysterfied coffee and beverages, stop in at Elixir Coffee and enjoy a drink, a great river view and something from their tasty menu. (The turmeric latte was particularly lovely! (Daily, 7am – 6pm) In addition to coffee, they also feature event catering and a nice array of handcrafted goods. After enjoying your coffee, stop in at Riverside Gallery next door and enjoy a bit of local artistry and design. (10:30am – 4:30pm, Thursday – Sunday. Closed Monday – Wednesday.)

While it’s possible to get to South Bend via the Willapa Hills Trail from Raymond, I chose to go with four wheels for this adventure. Granted, one might miss a bit in passing, but when there are delicious oyster spots to try and beautiful coastlines to explore, it seems a fair trade-off. Continuing past South Bend on US-101 will definitely lead you to great bounty on both counts. It is a stunning drive filled with twists, turns and gorgeous sloughs and not to be missed. (It also would be pretty amazing on a motorcycle!)

As you get closer towards the coast, you’ll pass through the Bone River Natural Area Preserve and Niawiakum River Natural Area Preserve. Both are protected for their coastal salt marshes, various species of birds and mammals as well as freshwater streams, wetlands and forested areas. If you’re feeling particularly adventurous, consider a kayak trip up the Bone River. The Bone River Launch in the nearby Bay Center peninsula area is a popular place to put in. Definitely a bucket list item for a future adventure…

Also located in the Bay Center area and an excellent place to stop for an oyster pilgrimage is the iconic Goose Point Shellfish Farm & Oystery. (Open Friday – Sunday, 10am – 4pm; 5pm during winter) They offer fresh oysters and shellfish to go as well as oysters to enjoy in their picnic area. Grab a round of oysters and a Bone River Oyster Stout and enjoy the Willapa River scene. (They partnered with Willapa Brewing Company in nearby South Bend on the stout.) If you can’t get enough of the oysters – or that very unique stout – consider pitching a tent at nearby Bush Pioneer County Park and making a weekend of it. (Located on the very tip of the Bay Center peninsula and part of the Chinook Nation, where even more oysters can be found close by at the Ekone Oyster Company. Check out their online shop.)

The next stops on my itinerary were two of my very favorite spots in the state, Long Beach and Cape Disappointment. Along the way, however, were some excellent distractions and beautiful areas to explore. Not only is the drive spectacular all on its own, there are many breathtaking spots along the way to stop and commune with nature. If camping, hiking, fishing or just standing still and taking in the scene are your jam, this is the place to be. Just a few of the wonderful options to enjoy on your next Pacific County outing:

  • Out of the Bay Center area, head south on US-101 through the Nemah and Middle Nemah areas towards the gorgeous Willapa National Wildlife Refuge and Long Island coastal areas. The only way to visit Long Island is via private boat, but the bounty is worth it. Shellfish harvesting, hiking, camping and more await you on the island. Long Island has long been a home and point of resource for native tribes and is still used for cultural and spiritual occasions. Be sure to check out the Cedar Grove Trail which features trees over 900 years old. For hiking off-island, check out the Willapa Art Trail and Cutthroat Climb for relatively easy family hikes on a lovely boardwalk through the refuge. (Located at Milepost 24 on US-101. There is also a boat launch for Long Island in this area, across US-101 from the Milepost 24 refuge entrance.)
  • A great way to immerse oneself in the area is with a visit to the Wings Over Willapa festival in the fall. (September 23-26, 2021) It features tours, workshops and classes covering birding, art and a lecture series about the ecology, management and history of Willapa Bay.

Continuing southwest on US-101 will eventually bring you to a junction with SR-103 in the Seaview area. Congratulations – You’ve made it to the Pacific Ocean! And you didn’t have to travel for thousands of miles via horse, wagon or canoe to do it. Thank you, Lewis and Clark!

At this fork in the road, you can opt to go right and head into the bustling town of Long Beach or take a left and head towards Ilwaco and the epic Cape Disappointment. They’re both must-sea destinations and in easy reach of one another. However, since I was in need of some beach action and maybe a tasty treat, I took a right and headed into Seaview and Long Beach, located along the Long Beach Peninsula. We’ll head back towards Cape Disappointment shortly. No need for disappointment…

Before arriving in Long Beach proper, the lovely Seaview area offers several lodging and dining options for the peninsula visitor. Long Beach can get fairly crowded during the summer months and historic Seaview is nice if you’re looking for a little respite. A few spots to explore on your next adventure:

  • If you’re in need of a tasty, local brew, check out North Jetty Brewing for beer, light snacks and maybe even a bit of Bingo. I’m not a huge sour beer fan, but I truly loved their Yara Peach-Passion-fruit Sour as well as their super-drinkable Beach Beer Blonde Ale. They will even fill to-go cans! (Kid friendly (to 6pm), open daily at noon – Closed Tuesdays)
  • Visit local favorite, The Depot Restaurant for delicious farm and ocean-to-table fare served out of the historic Seaview train depot building. (c. 1900) (Open daily, 4:30 – 8:30pm)
  • A stop at the quaint 42nd Street Café & Bistro will yield a hearty breakfast or lunch and tasty bistro fare during the dinner hour. (8am – 12:30pm, 4:30 – 8pm for dinner. Closed Monday/Tuesday.)
  • For the ultimate in hip getaways, check out the historic Sou’Wester Lodge. Stay in the original lodge (c. 1892) or kick back in the adjacent vintage travel trailer resort, cabins or campsite. In addition to cool lodging, they also host various classes, wellness events, live music and artist residencies. Relax further in their Garden Spa and Finnish sauna and check out the goods in at the store in the vintage trailer. 
  • The historic Shelburne Hotel (c. 1896), along with its onsite restaurant and pub, offer trendy lodging, menus and cocktails in a vintage locale. The best of both worlds. (Pub open daily, Noon – 1pm, Monday – Thursday, 11pm on Friday; 8am – 10pm Saturday, 11pm on Sunday.)
  • For an up close and personal look at the history of Seaview, check out the Seaview Walking Tour and enjoy strolling by charming Seaview homes, lodging and more.

Is it maybe a little scary? Yes. Perhaps a little dangerous? Yes. Is it spectacularly beautiful, absolutely unique and full of cool travel cred? Yes, yes and YES! Welcome to Long Beach and the “World’s Longest Beach.” (Drivable. On a peninsula.) The world’s longest beach is actually Praia do Cassino in Brazil with a few beaches in other countries also being longer. But they’re not taking down the sign, so let’s just all be cool…

The scary and potentially dangerous parts come in the form of driving on the 28-mile beach, which is technically considered a state highway. (25 mph. Keep to the right and don’t drive on the dry sand! Seriously.) Of the 28-miles, there are sections closed to vehicles year-round as well areas closed seasonally to vehicles during razor clam season. Follow the general rules-of-the-road in addition to not driving on sand dunes and paying attention to the tides. Check out the Beach Safety and Rules for more information and tips.

If four-wheels on the beach aren’t for you, there are countless other ways to enjoy the day and Long Beach has quite a bit of beach to enjoy. Just a few of the excellent activities to explore during your next beach getaway:

  • Razor clam digging is very popular on Long Beach. Visit the WDFW site for dates, beaches, regulations and more – And don’t forget to procure a Shellfish & Seaweed License before you start digging. They can be purchased online or at one of many local area stores.
  • Horseback riding on the beach is a top item on my Washington State bucket list and my dream shall be realized soon – I know it! Riders can bring their own horses or hit up the outfits offering beach rides. Check out West Coast Horse Rides and The Long Beach Horse Rides for both guided and unguided rides (for the experienced riders) on the beach and the Red Barn Arena and Peninsula Saddle Club for options when bringing your own horses.
  • For an excellent day at the beach and a good bit of exercise, hit up the Lewis & Clark Discovery Trail. The trail goes all the way to Ilwaco and Cape Disappointment State Park (8.5 miles one-way) and offers amazing views along the way. Be sure to visit the Long Beach Boardwalk and don’t miss the wooden whale sculptures near the Sid Snyder beach entrance.
  • It might not be Oahu’s North Shore, but you can still get your surf on in the Long Beach area. Head to Skookum Surf Company for gear, instruction and information on the local hot spots.
  • Long Beach takes kite flying to the next level. Bust out your old school diamond kite or grab the newest in kite technology from one of the many local kite shops. Be sure to visit the World Kite Museum near the beach to take in the majesty of riding the breeze and head to the Washington State International Kite Festival for even more majesty.(August 16-22, 2021)

Important note for any beach outing: Never turn your back on the wily ocean. Sneaker waves are REAL.

There are many great places to eat and stay while visiting the Long Beach area. Whether it’s a beach snack, casual meal or fine dining, Long Beach has you covered. There really is nothing finer than picnicking at the beach on a warm, sunny day. Or grabbing an ice cream cone and walking along the boardwalk. (But don’t count out those stormy beach days!)

The next time you’re in Long Beach, keep these excellent establishments in mind:

  • The Adrift Distillers (daily, 11am – 5pm) feature delicious spirits and tastings and the adjacent Adrift Hotel features onsite dining at the very hip Pickled Fish restaurant. (Daily, 8am – 10pm; 11pm, Friday/Saturday) Excellent food, cocktails and beach-side lodging in a trendy locale – Score! Reservations recommended for the Pickled Fish. I highly recommend the burrata salad, Dungeness crab cakes and vanilla Pavlova – as well as their Triticale Whiskey. (The Shelburne Hotel in Seaview, the Boardwalk Cottages and the Inn at Discovery Coast are sister establishments and equally cool.)
  • Located in the heart of downtown Long Beach, the Boreas Bed & Breakfast features a lovely handful of suites and a separate beach house. Each stay comes with a tasty breakfast and access to onsite features like their private hot tub and gardens.
  • For a quiet beach cottage setting, check out the Anchorage Cottages and Klipsan Beach Cottages, both located just north of Long Beach. Who doesn’t love waking up to a cup of coffee in a cozy beach cottage?
  • If you’re looking for great fish-n-chips and chowder in the heart of downtown Long Beach, stop by Castaways Seafood Grille. (Daily, 11:30am – 8pm) It’s also across the street from the amusement park and games – something for the whole family! But maybe hit the rides first… (Note: The Rides are currently closed for the season, but will hopefully return for the summer.)
  • Located directly next door to the crazy and amazing Marsh’s Museum on Pacific Ave South, Captain Bob’s Chowder serves delicious chowders, lobster rolls and more. (Daily, 11am – 5pm, closed Monday/Tuesday. Wow. I could really use some of their chowder right now…)
  • I love donuts. True story. And if I’m looking for a delicious donut fix while in Long Beach, I head directly to the Dylan’s Cottage Bakery & Delicatessen. (Try the cream cheese-stuffed croissants!) They also have a great deli with excellent sandwiches, soups, biscuits & gravy and more. Oh, and did I mention their delicious selection of PIES?? (Open daily, 4am – 5pm, 6pm Friday/Saturday)
  • Serving delicious breakfast, lunch and dinner in a cozy, old-school setting, the Drop Anchor Seafood & Grill is a great place to enjoy a meal after a day at the beach. Grab one of their chowder kits to take home and recreate the magic! (Daily, 11am – 7pm, with breakfast at 8am, Saturday/Sunday)
  • While also featuring great local seafood, the Australian-themed Lost Roo also serves up great burgers, sandwiches and drinks. (Fill up your growlers!) Adding to their festive atmosphere, it’s a great place to visit whenever a game is on. (Daily, 11:30am – 9pm, 10pm Friday/Saturday)
  • Feel like channeling your inner pirate? The family-friendly Hungry Harbor Grille features old-fashioned hamburgers and hot dogs, fish-n-chips, chowder and handmade milkshakes. Check out their Sunday Breakfast Buffet from 9-11am. Pet-friendly seating outside! (Daily, 11am – 7pm, 8pm Friday/Saturday)

It’s no secret that 2020 was a dark year. The Arts, festivals, concerts and many of our treasured activities were all put on hold. As things hopefully start to open up in the coming year, we can begin to enjoy artistic gatherings and celebration again. If you happen to be in the Long Beach area, here are a few options to consider:

  • If you are looking for quirky, crazy history and a treasure trove of wacky souvenirs and antiques, Marsh’s Free Museum is hands-down the place to be. Established in 1921, Marsh’s – and Jake the Alligator Man – have been greeting visitors for generations. I always come out of this place with things I never knew I needed. (Open daily, 10am – 5pm, 6pm Friday/Saturday)
  • Operating June through September, the Columbia-Pacific Farmers Market showcases local produce, seafood, flowers, crafts and much more. (Fridays, 12-5pm)
  • Established in 1945, Cranguyma Farms is an important part of the Long Beach agricultural heritage. They specialize in delicious cranberries, blueberries and holly and feature a u-pick blueberry season from late July to September. They also feature beautiful, custom holly wreaths during the holiday season.
  • If you’re a fun-guy, or just really love mushrooms like I do, the Wild Mushroom Celebration is well worth checking out. Many restaurants in the area feature special menus and several local hotels offer lodging specials. (Usually October thru mid-November – Stay tuned for 2021 dates)
  • Should you be wishing for a live soundtrack for your beach adventure, the Water Music Festival features ongoing musical events. Upcoming is the Music in the Gardens (7/1/21) and the Jazz & Oysters event. (8/15/21) Presented by the Water Music Society, these shows are a lovely way to enjoy the beach life.
  • Keep an eye on the Events page for the Peninsula Arts Association. Much hope they will again be featuring gallery tours and events in 2021.
  • Hopefully returning in 2021, the long-running Long Beach Razor Clam Festival is a great way to celebrate the bounty of the area and enjoy A LOT of clams. YUM!
  • Regardless of your age, The Rides (seasonal) and the Funland Family Fun Center are excellent additions to a night on the town. Souvenirs, ice cream, candy and all manner of treats (taffy, fudge, cotton candy, etc.) can be found in abundance. Who doesn’t love saltwater taffy at the beach?? (Located on Pacific Ave S and open daily, 10am – 10pm) And don’t forget to check out the WORLD’S LARGEST FRYING PAN, located next to The Rides! (Come on. There are certain things one just needs to experience in life. The WORLD’S LARGEST FRYING PAN clearly falls into that category.)

Heading north out of Long Beach on SR 103/Pacific Way will take you towards the lovely, coastal hamlets of Ocean Park, Nahcotta and Oysterville. (Note: The entire town of Oysterville is on the National Register of Historic Places!) These communities were important parts of the Clamshell Railroad which ran for decades through the area in the early 1900s. (While the railroad no longer runs, the Nahcotta train car is open twice a year for visitors in nearby Ilwaco.) These communities remain integral parts of the peninsula and have much to offer.

Just shy of the very tip of the peninsula, you’ll find beautiful Leadbetter Point State Park with its coastal trails, seaside forest, fishing and great clamming and crabbing opportunities. (Discover Pass required. Pro tip: The last part of the road to the main parking area for Leadbetter Point trail and beach access is single-lane and not the greatest for larger vehicles such as RVs.)

While making your way to this gorgeous, peaceful park, there are many excellent places to visit and things to do along the way:

  • Do not miss a visit to Jack’s County Store, located on the corner of SR-103 and Bay Avenue in Ocean Park. Established in 1885 when Washington was still a territory, it’s thought to be the oldest, continuously operating retail business in the state. It is full of great deals, an amazing array of goods and quirky awesomeness. (Not to mention, fresh grocery items and take-away!) Open daily, 7am – 8pm.
  • Located just off of SR-103, in the Ocean Park area, the Long Beach Peninsula Trading Post features a great variety of antiques and collectibles. This place is huge and could easily fill an afternoon. (Open daily, 10am – 5pm, closed Tuesday/Wednesday)
  • Check out Pacific Pines State Park day-park for great clamming, crabbing and picnicking opportunities along the coast. (Discover Pass required)
  • If you’re hoping to catch some Dungeness crab, head to the Port of Peninsula marina in Nahcotta. (Check the WDFW site before going for regulations, dates, etc. – And you’ll need a Shellfish & Seaweed License.) They also have an interpretive center and public boat launch. (Interpretive center open Memorial Day – Labor Day, Friday-Sunday and holidays, 11am – 4pm)
  • There is some amazing history to explore in the area and a walking tour of historic Oysterville is an excellent option. The Oysterville one-room school house and church are still in use and the Oysterville post office is the oldest continually operating post office in the state. It is said that Chief Klickeas of the Chinook Tribe originally introduced early settlers in the 1850s to its future namesake and main export, the oyster. For additional information, check out Sydney of Oysterville to learn more of the deep history of this area. Oysterville is a tiny hamlet indeed, but absolutely worth a look. Charming doesn’t begin to cover it!

If you weren’t able to catch your fill of shellfish or other seafood delicacies, there are several dining options in the area to help you on your way. Consider some delicious take-away to go with your relaxing hang on the beach!

  • Located just past downtown Long Beach, heading north on Pacific Avenue, the old-school burger joint, The Corral Drive-In is a great place to stop for a burger, fish sandwich, crinkle-fries, TOTS and more. Open daily, 11am – 8pm.
  • Grab a tasty sandwich at the Great Day Café (11:30am – 4pm, Tuesday – Saturday) and then head out for a round of golf on the adjoining Surfside Golf Course.
  • Check out Ocean Park’s MyCovio’s for Italian-inspired fare featuring local ingredients in a cozy setting. (Thursday through Sunday, 4-7pm) It’s recommended to call ahead for reservations, but take-out is also available.
  • For a great burger and local seafood specialties, stop in at Sara’s Rusty Spur Bar & Grill for a relaxing meal and frosty pint. (11am – 8pm, daily – 9pm Fri/Sat. Bar open to 11pm – Cash only, ATM inside.) Located on Bay Avenue in Ocean Park. They also have a dog-friendly deck area.
  • For a spot of tasty, Irish comfort food, head to the Crown Alley Irish Pub along Pacific Way in Ocean Park. (Open 4-10pm, Sunday-Thursday, Noon-11pm, Friday/Saturday, closed Tuesday/Wednesday) Hopefully they’ll again be able to host the awesome Coastal Celtic Music Festival in the coming year.
  • Speaking of festivals, the very fragrant and tasty Northwest Garlic Festival is set to tentatively return in September. I have a deep fondness for garlicky goodness and my fingers are crossed – and my garlic bulbs, braided. (September 18-19, 2021 at the Nahcotta Boat Basin)
  • Anita’s Coastal Café in Ocean Park is a cozy spot to stop for breakfast or lunch. Open daily, 8am to 1:45pm. Great local seafood features!
  • Also located in Ocean Park, The Berry Patch features hearty breakfasts and comfort-filled lunch and dinner plates, along with local seafood specialties. Open daily, 7am to 7pm.
  • Stop in at Willapa Oysters / Willapa Artisan Kitchen for fresh oysters, clams and take-away dishes to heat up at home. (Dungeness Crab Mac & Cheese, anyone??) They will also ship around the country. (Open daily, 11am – 6pm, located off SR-103 in the Oysterville area.)
  • If you’re roaming around the peninsula on the weekend, stop in at legendary Oysterville Sea Farms for fresh clam chowder, oysters and clams, wine and beer. There is also public access to Willapa Bay. (Friday – Sunday, 9:30am to 5pm) I’m still dreaming of the oysters and crab I enjoyed on my recent trip. The freshest, most delicious oysters I’ve ever had! WOW!

After taking in all of the sights and making your way to the tip of the peninsula, unless you have an awesome boat, it’s time to head back south. Not to worry, the drive is beautiful and there’s still a great bit of Pacific County to see south of Long Beach. We’re not done yet!

Head back down SR-103 towards Long Beach and continue forward onto US-101, just past Seaview. This will take directly into the little town of Ilwaco, tucked snugly into scenic Baker Bay. Looking out towards Oregon and enjoying the last waters of the Columbia River as they head out to sea, Ilwaco is a great place to spend a relaxing weekend as well as a jumping-off point for river and ocean adventures.

The general vibe in Ilwaco has always been relaxed and fairly chill when I’ve visited, but they do have their days of festivity and celebration. Whether it’s reveling in local waters, bounty or industry, Ilwaco has much to celebrate. Typically occurring during the second weekend of October and sponsored by the Columbia-Pacific Heritage Museum (Temporarily closed – Reopens June 1st), the Cranberrian Fair is a great way to pay homage to one of the area’s most important exports, the cranberry. Also sponsored by the museum is the Clamshell Railroad Days event during the third weekend of July. Hopefully both of these much-loved festivals will return in 2021.

Situated in the center of town, directly on Baker Bay, the Port of Ilwaco is a hub of activity and commerce. Home to local businesses, including great dining and hotel options, it’s a fine place to spend an afternoon or longer. Grab a bite to eat, a tasty beverage and gaze out onto the waterways – or take a strong along the Waterfront Walkway. (Part of the Lewis & Clark Discovery Trail) Not a bad way way to spend a day…

Just a few of the excellent options to check out on your next visit to the Port of Ilwaco:

  • Considering Ilwaco’s beautiful location, history and environment, it is no wonder it’s a great spot for artists. The waterfront area features several galleries and it’s easy to spend an afternoon taking it all in. On my most recent visit, I had the unexpected pleasure of meeting one of the artists and connecting the dots to a piece of art I’d picked up on my last visit to the area. I stopped in at the Don Nisbett Art Gallery and very quickly realized he was the artist responsible for the awesome 12th Salmon magnet I’d picked up at the Nelson Crab shop in Tokeland. I was so excited to meet the maker, but equally happy to enjoy a much broader view of his work. (And pick up a few more fun pieces, which he kindly autographed!) Dan is also a great resource for local information and stories – be sure to hit him up on your next visit! Should you be in town on the first Friday of the month in June through September, be sure to check out the First Friday art walk from 4-7pm along the waterfront.
  • If you happen to be visiting during late spring or the summer, check out the vibrant Saturday Market at the Port and enjoy local artisan goods, produce and more. (Opening Day, May 1st, 10am. Open May-Sept.)
  • In need of a caffeine boost? Stop by Roots Juice, Java & Salad Bar for a great cup of coffee or fresh juice – and a nice salad. (Open daily, 7am to 1:30pm, 6:30am to 10:30 on Saturdays, closed Sundays.)
  • Located just up from the port, the seasonal Serious Pizza serves up delicious pizza, sandwiches and more. Open during the spring months on Friday – Sunday from 11am – 7pm. During the summer months, they’re open Wednesday – Sunday from 11am – 7pm. (Closed November – February)
  • For a comfortable, but very hip stay in the area, head to the Salt Hotel & Pub, located by the marina and overlooking the port. The newly restored hotel is also host to the Salt Pub with its hearty pub fare and dog-friendly patio. I wanted at least a couple more orders of their clams. Delicious! (Thursday – Monday, 11:30am – 7pm, 8pm on Friday/Saturday. Pub closed Tuesday/Wednesday)
  • Bringing a little swank to the port area, the At the Helm Hotel & Pub is both comfortable and upscale. Located by the marina, this boutique hotel also features excellent dining at the Waterline Pub. (Open Thursday – Sunday.) In addition to great lodging and delicious local fare, they also host onsite yoga classes (Friday-Sunday), in-house massage and offer cruiser bike rentals. Enjoy a complimentary glass of beer/wine on check-in!
  • I was very excited to pick up some Sturgeon and freshly caught sole on my recent visit to Fish People seafood, located on the Ilwaco waterfront. Great prices, friendly staff and an excellent spot near the water – you can’t go wrong! (Open Thursday – Sunday, 10am – 5:30pm) 
  • For more great lodging in the Ilwaco area, check out the Inn at Harbour Village (c. 1926) in downtown Ilwaco or the relaxing China Beach Retreat, just up the road towards Cape Disappointment State Park.  (Currently under renovation and temporarily closed)

Due to its strategic location near both fresh and salt waters, Ilwaco boasts several fishing charters and opportunities to catch that big one. Let the area experts show you around the area and help you in your quest.

  • Seabreeze Charters offers great fishing tours of area waters. Hit them up during sturgeon season (May 10 – June 5th) and try your hand at reeling in one of the prehistoric-looking monsters. Sturgeon can live for years and easily grow 6 feet and more. Growing up, I often swam in the Columbia and was sincerely hoping to never bump into one. That said, they prefer the deeper water, so that’s good… Seabreeze also features salmon, albacore and halibut fishing when in season.
  • Featuring fishing tours and lodging, the family-run Coho Charters & Motel offers sturgeon and salmon fishing trips on the Columbia River as well as crabbing tours out at sea.
  • Maybe fishing isn’t your bag. Maybe you want to enter your awesome yacht in a marathon race from Ilwaco all the way to Victoria B.C. (Also, can I come along?) Throw your life preserver into the ring and sign up for the yearly Pacific NW Yacht Race and give those sea legs a good stretch. (First week of May) The race didn’t happen in 2020, but hopefully you can bring me along in 2021. I’d even be amenable to 2022… 2023?

One of my very favorite parts of the entire state can be found just up the road from Ilwaco. Set upon windy bluffs, overlooking the merging waters of the Columbia River and Pacific Ocean, Cape Disappointment State Park and its stunning lighthouses are a must-visit in Pacific County. (Discover Pass recommended, but you can purchase day passes on site.) The beauty, historical significance and adventure potential of this area are incomparable. In fact, the entire area is on the National Register of Historic Places.

As the area is apparently one of the foggiest places in the US with over 2500 hours a year of fog, the North Head Lighthouse (c. 1898) and the Cape Disappointment Lighthouse (c. 1856 – Oldest operating lighthouse in the Pacific NW) are much needed and appreciated beacons of safety. That said, it’s always been sunny when I’ve visited. (Guess I don’t always bring the grey skies of Seattle with me…) Be sure to bring varied outerwear, plenty of water and a good flashlight or headlamp. (We’ll get to the flashlight part in a bit…)

Stop in at the excellent Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center and learn all about the history and beauty of the area. Perched atop a 200-foot high cliff, it offers an amazing view of the North Jetty as it aids passage over the Columbia River Bar and into the Pacific Ocean. (The South Jetty aids passage from the Oregon side of the river) This convergence, also known as “The Graveyard of the Pacific,” hosts the very waters viewed by the Lewis & Clark Corp of Discovery as their 18-month, 3,700-mile journey from Missouri came to its fruition on November 7th, 1805.  

Along with serving as the epic entrance to the Pacific Ocean, the area has been home to the local Chinook Tribe for millennia. Skilled stewards of the land and water, they were instrumental in helping Lewis & Clark and their Corp of Discovery survive the harsh winter in the area and meet their expedition goals. Unfortunately, this friendship was tested when the expedition stole one of the Chinook Tribe’s canoes. It wasn’t until long after the fact that descendants of the Clark family “returned” the canoe to its rightful owners. (The Clark family presented a replica, 36’ seaworthy canoe to the Chinook Tribe in 2011.)

During your visit to the cape, don’t miss out on the many areas to explore. Grab your flashlight and snake in and out of the coastal defense batteries placed strategically throughout the grounds. As early as 1862, the cape has been providing defense for the nation and these batteries were in service throughout WW II. It’s both fascinating and sobering to wander through these narrow passageways and ponder the degree of force Washington State was prepared to release from its shores. (Don’t forget your flashlight!)

If you forgot your flashlight, rest assured there are many other activities to enjoy in the park. Put on your hiking boots and enjoy one of the many trails throughout the park. The Beards Hollow and Bell’s View trails leading up to the North Head Lighthouse are spectacular and the Coastal Forest and Benson Beach trails are also not to be missed. Actually walking to the end of the North Jetty which is just next to Benson Beach was truly awe-inspiring.

Consider extending your stay in the area by taking advantage of the ample camping spots, not to mention the 14 yurts, 3 Cabins and 3 lighthouse keeper’s residences/ vacation homes. This would certainly make hitting up the Lewis & Clark Discovery Trail between Cape Disappointment State and Long Beach much more doable. (8.5 miles one-way. Only trail in park that allows bikes. Rent one in Ilwaco!) Or you can always throw in at the boat launch from Baker Bay on the Columbia River for some crabbing action near the North Jetty or hit up Benson Beach for a bit of clamming. (Shellfish and boat launch permits required.) And hopefully you’ll be able to end your night by taking in a show as part of the Waikiki Beach Concert Series. (June – August, every other Saturday. Cancelled for 2020.)

We’re nearing the end of our Pacific County adventure, but there are still a few great stops to enjoy on your way home. As I’m always up for a bit of meandering, I like to drive towards Chinook on US-101 and then SR-401 up to SR-4 out of the tiny community of Naselle. Heading towards Chinook is also advised if you plan on heading over the Columbia River towards lovely Astoria, Oregon or Wahkiakum County and on to I-5. (Important note: Goonies never say die!) 

Traveler Advisory: SR-401 is presently closed one mile east of US 101 due to roadway settlement. Keep an eye on the WSDOT website for updates on reopening. Use alternate routes.

Following this route will bring you by these great spots:

  • For a great cup of coffee and delicious cookies and pastries, stop in at Chinook Coffee Co. and fuel up for your coastal drive. (Daily, 7am – 3pm. Sometimes 4pm.)
  • For tasty pub fare and a good drink, check out the Columbia River Roadhouse in Chinook. They also feature live music and a casual, sports bar ambiance. (12-7pm, Tuesday – Thursday, 12-9pm Friday/Saturday. Closed Sunday/Monday.)
  • If you’re a history buff, plan a stop at the Fort Columbia Historical State Park just past Chinook and shortly before the bridge to Astoria, along the Columbia River. The area is small as compared to nearby coastal defense sites, but Fort Columbia is considered one of the United States’ most intact coastal defense sites and the Fort Columbia Interpretive Center is filled will artifacts and stories of the area’s history. (Temporarily closed due to Covid-19) In addition to a self-guided interpretive historic walk around the fort, there are a couple miles of hiking trails as well as two, charming vacation houses should you be interested in staying longer in the area.
  • Just before arriving at the bridge to Astoria sits the lovely St. Mary’s Station parish in tiny McGowan. There are nice trails to check out beginning from the parish parking lot and an absolutely beautiful view of the Columbia River. This is also the home of the Chinook Tribe’s Middle Village – Station Camp, an important part of Chinook life and trade and integral to their trade with the Lewis & Clark expedition.
  • Just past the bridge exit, along SR-401 sits the interestingly named spot, Dismal Nitch. It’s now a small rest area along the banks of the Columbia, but bears the historical distinction of hosting the Lewis & Clark expedition while they were riding out a severe winter storm before finally reaching the coast. So close, yet so far… (Travel Advisory: The rest area is presently closed for septic repairs. Keep an eye on the WSDOT website for updates on reopening.)
  • From Dismal Nitch, continue north on SR-401 up to the tiny Finnish community of Naselle. A portion of my family hails from Finland and I was very interested to learn how Finns found their way to this remote part of Washington. I didn’t need to look far as Naselle’s Appelo Archives Center answered many of my questions as I learned about the logging and fishing industries which drew Finnish and Scandinavian immigrants to the area. The museum and bookstore feature interesting exhibits and resources and the onsite café features delicious Finnish pastries and more. They also host the bi-annual Finnish-American Folk Festival which occurs in July. The 2020 event was cancelled due to Covid-19, so they are now set to return in 2022.
  • For other sightseeing and cultural opportunities in the area, check out the lovely Deep River Pioneer Lutheran Church (National Register of Historic Places, c. 1902) and the Knappton Cove Heritage Center (temporarily closed due to Covid-19), formerly known as the historic Columbia River Quarantine Station. (National Register of Historic Places, c. 1899)
  • There aren’t many dining options in the Naselle area, but the low-key Hunters Inn is known for its heart country-cooking and casual atmosphere. (Current hours, daily from 3-9pm)

And with that, it’s time to bring these Pacific County adventures to an end. For now… From Naselle, simply take SR-401 back up to SR-4 and head out to I-5 through Wahkiakum County. As there are so many areas to explore and enjoy in Pacific County, I find myself returning time and again. The beauty of the ocean, the Columbia River, coastal forests and delicious foodie opportunities will never get old. I can’t wait for my next visit – perhaps I’ll see you there. Say, would you happen to have a boat? Asking for a friend…

Until next time, please stay safe, get that vaccine and get ready to eat the state!

Cheers!

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Enjoy the ride with my Pacific County SPOTIFY PLAYLIST!

  • Ventura Highway – America (from Homecoming)
  • Reelin’ in the Years – Steely Dan (from Can’t Buy A Thrill)
  • Lovely Day – Bill Withers (from Menagerie)
  • I Can See Clearly Now – Johnny Nash (from I Can See Clearly Now)
  • Cool Change  – Little River Band (from First Under the Wire)
  • Feels So Good – Single Version – Chuck Mangione (from Chuck Mangione: A&M Gold Series)
  • Happier than the Morning Sun – Stevie Wonder (from Music of My Mind)
  • You Can Close Your Eyes – James Taylor (from Mud Slide Slim & the Blue Horizon)
  • Angel from Montgomery – Bonnie Raitt (from Streetlights)
  • Light Enough to Travel – The Be Good Tanyas (from Blue Horse)
  • It’s Too Late – Carole King (from Tapestry)
  • Let ‘Em In – Wings (from Wings at the Speed of Sound)
  • Doctor My Eyes – Jackson Browne (from Jackson Browne – Saturate Before Using)
  • Isis – Live at Montreal Forum, Montreal, Quebec – December 1975 – Bob Dylan (from The Rolling Thunder Review – The 1975 Live Recordings)
  • Find Yourself – Lukas Nelson & Promise of the Real (from Lukas Nelson & Promise of the Real)
  • Old Friend – Shooter Jennings (from The Wolf)
  • Long White Line – Sturgill Simpson (from Metamodern Sounds in Country Music)
  • The Life You Choose – Jason Isbell (from Something More than Free)
  • Something to Love – Jason Isbell & the 400 Unit (from The Nashville Sound)
  • You’ve Got A Friend in Me – From Toy Story – Randy Newman & Lyle Lovett (from Toy Story)
  • A Long Way to Get – Bob Schneider (from I’m Good Now)
  • The Boys of Summer – Don Henley (from Building the Perfect Beast)
  • Clean Getaway – Maria Taylor (from Lynn Teeter Flower)
  • Can’t Find My Way Home – Ellen McIlwaine (from Up From the Skies: The Polydor Years)
  • Life Is Beautiful – Keb’ Mo’ (from Just Like You/Suitcase)
  • Between the Devil and the Deep Blue Sea – Paolo Nutini & The Preservation Hall Jazz Band (from An Album to Benefit Preservation Hall & the Preservation Hall Music Outreach Program)
  • Smells Like Teen Spirit – The Muppet Barbershop Quartet (from The Muppets – Original Motion Picture Soundtrack)
  • The Christmas Song (Chestnuts Roasting on An Open Fire) – Mel Tormé (from That’s All)

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Check out more I Ate the State adventures: