I spent my formative years in the eastern part of Washington. Specifically, in the dry, desert climes of Pasco, which is part of the Tri-Cities. A very key route in and out of the Tri-Cities is US-395, which is where my most recent adventure to Spokane County begins. Come along as I journey through this … Read more I Ate the State – Spokane County
I’ve always been intrigued by Iceland and my interest was further fueled after an unexpected layover en route to the UK a few years ago. Sweeping snowfields, volcanoes, waterfalls, the Northern Lights, dramatic weather, trolls, fairy tales – all the things! Fast forward to today and I’ve now officially visited Iceland two times. I plan … Read more I Ate the State: Special Edition – Iceland 2024 (and 2021!)
Welcome back to the adventures of I Ate the State! It’s been a while and I’m happy to be back in the driver’s seat. One of the two oldest counties in Washington, Lewis County is brimming with history and beauty. The indigenous peoples of the area have called it home for millennia, treasuring its bountiful … Read more I Ate the State – Lewis County
Greetings! Welcome to the largest county in Washington State, Okanogan County. Seriously, this county is ENORMOUS! In fact, I’d go as far to say it is ginormous – and filled with an equally large bevy of adventure-filled opportunities. I am absolutely blown away by the size and scale of the county every time I’m lucky … Read more I Ate the State – Okanogan County
Happy New Year from I Ate the State! I’m quite certain it’s going to be a good one – and chock full of Washington State adventure. To start the year off in coastal style, I’d like to share my recent adventures to the beautiful shores of Island County. Comprised primarily of Whidbey and Camano Islands […]
For such a tiny area, Wahkiakum County packs quite a punch. Located in the bottom southwest corner of the state, this small swatch of Washington has been key to pivotal moments in not only the history of the state, but of the country. For its part in the iconic journey of Lewis and Clark, Wahkiakum County provided the first views of the Pacific Ocean to the weary explorers. Also indispensable to their expedition was the mighty Columbia River, which flows all the along the county’s border with Oregon. Most importantly, had the area and its native peoples not been helpful and accommodating to the Lewis and Clark expedition, the United States might not have the same layout as it does today.
Named for Chief Wakaiyakam of the Chinook Tribe, Wahkiakum County is the second least populated county in the state and the third smallest by land area. With its lush, fertile farmland and foothills fed by the Columbia River, the area has long supported local residents with its bounty. Thefirst salmon cannery along the Columbia River sprang up around 1865 and inspired many similar operations. Life on the river has always been vibrant and the area’s close proximity to the Pacific Ocean has provided a strategic location for trade and exploration through the ages.
The gorgeous Columbia River as viewed from Altoona-Pillar Rock Road
Just across the county border lies the appropriately named County Line Park. Situated directly along the Columbia River, it provides a nice rest stop and picnic location for a day visit as well as overnight RV camping. On a clear day, Mount St. Helens can be seen in the distance and the views of the river are outstanding. Having grown up mere blocks from the Columbia River as it flows through the Tri-Cities, I have a special place in my heart for its waters. I was incredibly happy to make my first stop in Wahkiakum County along its beautiful shores.
Heading west on SR-4 near the Wahkiakum County border
County Line Park and the mighty Columbia River
Clouds on clouds! It was a beautifully calm morning on the river…
Camp right on the Columbia!
Traveling further west along SR-4, the road continues to wind along the river, but slowly gains a small bit of elevation. Perched along the resulting bluffs and overlooking the river, beautiful homes with private driveways peak through the trees. Not much further, the lovely river town of Cathlamet awaits visitors to both Wahkiakum County and nearby Oregon alike.
While it might not seem very big, Cathlamet is the largest town in Wahkiakum County and serves as the county seat. It is a hub to the area and host to the Wahkiakum County Courthouse and K-12 school district for the entire county as well as a WSU Extension campus. The area has long been home to the Kathlamet and Chinook Peoples and what was once a large village, was visited by Lewis and Clark during their travels. Chief Wakaiyakam, the county’s namesake, is buried in the Cathlamet Cemetery.
Welcome to Cathlamet!
The Wahkiakum County Court House in Cathlamet
Since 1891!
Not only is Cathlamet the heart of the county, it is also an inspiration to many artists and artistic endeavors. Films such as Snow Falling on Cedars (1999 – starring Ethan Hawke) and Men of Honor (2000 – starring Robert De Niro and Cuba Gooding Jr.) have taken advantage of the beautiful surroundings. Local Tsuga Gallery features beautiful work from local artists and musicians and well-known Jazz musician Hadley Caliman called Cathlamet home for many years. He loved the area so much, in fact, he was willing to commute to his faculty position at Seattle’s Cornish College of the Arts during his long tenure at the school. (I had the pleasure of studying with him during my own time at Cornish!)
The history and beauty of the Cathlamet area runs deep and there are many ways in which to experience it. Simply walking around the quaint downtown area is a great way to start and can provide a great afternoon of exploration. If you happen to be in town on the weekend between May and October, stop by the Wahkiakum Historical Society Museum to investigate the county’s rich heritage. Admire the river view from the steps of the beautiful Pioneer Church (c. 1895 – On the National Register of Historic Places) and walk down to the waterfront area to enjoy the river up close. The area is particularly beautiful in the spring and summer, but Cathlamet is a charming place to explore any time of year.
Bustling downtown Cathlamet
City Docks in downtown Cathlamet (c. 1905)
Tug boats on the Columbia
Cathlamet’s industrial past
The stately Pioneer Church in downtown Cathlamet
Riverlife in Cathlamet
Just one of the scenes in downtown Cathlamet
Beautiful brickwork in the downtown area
Not quite sure about that ladder…
For shopping opportunities stop in at Daisy Chain Floral for lovely flower arrangements and unique gifts. If you’re in the area around the holidays, head to the Lighted Christmas Parade & Holiday Market at Mile 38 Brewery and stock up on goods from the talented local artisans. (Dec 14, 3-9pm)
Since I’d left early in the morning to make a good day of it down in Wahkiakum, I’d skipped breakfast in my rush. (I did stop for coffee, however. I’m not a monster.) By the time I made it to Cathlamet, I was feeling pretty challenged and a good breakfast sounded fabulous. I was in great luck when I walked into Patty Cakes Café & Roasting, located on Main Street. I enjoyed a couple cups of their great coffee as well as a delicious scramble with bacon, Italian-blend cheese and mushrooms. To top it off, I splurged and tried one of their Patty-cakes. I’m not normally a pancake fan (unless they’re Swedish with lingonberries and butter), but the menu mentioned a 100-year old sourdough starter in their pancakes and I was intrigued. For the record, I’m very glad I tried them as they were delicious!
Great coffee at Patty Cakes downtown
Made with 100 year-old sourdough starter!
A delicious scramble at Patty Cakes!
Cathlamet is a fairly small area, but they do have a few tasty food options. Some of the possibilities for your next Cathlamet visit:
Maria’s Place, located on Main Street offers scratch-made Mexican cuisine as well as a full bar and early morning breakfast every day. (Open daily at 7am)
Not just for pizza, The Pizza Mill serves great pizza along with burgers, sandwiches, salads and more. (Closed Sundays)
Stop in at the Mile 38 Brewery if you’re in the market for a great pint or two. (They also have house-made root beer!) If you happen to be moored at the nearby marina or staying at the campsite, they’re perfectly located for a relaxing break. Bring your own food or arrange for delivery from a local restaurant. (Wednesday – Saturday, 4-9pm and Sundays, 2-6pm – Family and dog friendly)
Breakfast, lunch and dinner at Maria’s in downtown
Grab a tasty pint at Mile 38 Brewery
If you’re thinking of staying in the Cathlamet area or perhaps stopping in during your next river expedition, check out these great options:
The downtown Hotel Cathlamet (c. 1926) features comfortable rooms and a lovely lobby and tavern in this historic building. They also offer a continental breakfast, a large patio and a freezer to store all of those fish you just caught!
If you’d prefer to stay on your boat with all those fish you just caught, cruise into the charming Elochoman Marina and enjoy an idyllic riverside stay. They also have great cabins, yurts, tent sites and restrooms/showers. I have the fondest memories of boating along the Columbia River with my Uncle Ron when I was young. We pulled into similar marinas along the river and I always dreamed of owning my own boat someday. It’s STILL ON MY LIST. Soon…
The lovely Cathlamet Hotel in downtown
The Elochoman Marina in Cathlamet
The Columbia River and adjoining sloughs are a boater’s dream!
Rental cabins at the marina
After my lovely breakfast and jaunt around downtown Cathlamet, it was time to check out the wilds of nearby Puget Island. Actually a series of islands, including the fittingly named Little Island, the area can be reached from the Julia Butler Hansen Bridge via SR-409. The islands are a goldmine of gorgeous country roads and farmland. I had a mission to check out the entire county that day, but I could’ve happily spent all day on the tiny island, aimlessly driving around and taking in the scenery.
Looking over to Puget Island from Cathlamet
Looking out over the Columbia from the Julia Butler Hansen Bridge
Gorgeous scenery on Puget Island
There are indeed many farms in the area and it’s an important part of the Wahkiakum County agricultural scene, but the island also fulfills another important purpose. Traveling south on SR-409 will quickly bring you to the Wahkiakum County Ferry, located on the south side of the island. The last ferry operating on the lower Columbia, this tiny gem ferries passengers and vehicles across the river to nearby Westport, Oregon 365 days a year, all day long. Should you arrive early to the Cathlamet side, grab a spot in adjacent Buffington Park and Heritage Area for a picnic and information about the area’s history and contributions. (Note: No debit or credit cards accepted for ferry – cash/check only)
Check out tiny Buffington Park and Heritage Site while you wait for the ferry to Oregon
Hanging out by the ferry dock
Ferry deets!
The ferry dock and long line-up!
Looking over to Oregon from the ferry dock
Sasquatch welcomes you to Washington!
Heading back towards Cathlamet, I randomly took a few of the backroads around the island. Amazing views, sweeping farmland, hidden sloughs and beautiful scenery greeted me around every turn in the road. I initially took a right on East Little Island Road off of SR-409 and drove around the eastern tip of the island until it brought be back around to SR-409. Lovely! Puget Island is one of the most peaceful, tranquil areas I’ve visited and I fully intend on returning for further exploration.
More places to explore on Puget Island for my – and your – next journey:
Located off the lovely East Little Island Road, Little Island Creamery produces delicious artisan cheese and butter out of their beautifully restored dairy farm. (10am to 4pm, daily – Self-serve fridge available)
If you’re looking for a cozy place to stay while exploring Puget Island, check out Stockhouse’s Farm & Rog’s Retreat Guest Cottage. As part of their farm operation, they also host a weekly farm market on Fridays from 3pm – 6pm. (May – October)
Should you feel like pitching a tent or lying out on the deck of your boat and stargazing, head to South Welcome Slough Campground & Moorage for a peaceful stay on a beautiful river slough. They also have a cozy lodge available should you want to take your adventure indoors.
Sweeping farmland and beautiful scenery on Puget Island
Beautiful farmland off of East Little Island Road
The Columbia River and overlooking bluffs as seen from East Little Island Road
Beautiful bluffs of the Columbia River
Such a peaceful river scene from East Little Island Road
There are so many hidden sloughs coming off the Columbia (as seen from East Little Island Road)
Norse Hall on Puget Island
Heading west on SR-4, the road winds and meanders inland of the river as it flows towards the Pacific Ocean. The drive is gorgeous and there are more than a few photo ops to be enjoyed. Along the way, the Lewis and Clark National Wildlife Refuge can be found off of SR-4 and Steamboat Slough Road. (Note: The refuge extends across the river into Oregon.) There isn’t a lot of hiking due to marshes, but you can boat around the islands. An amazing ecosystem awaits your exploration along with the opportunity to travel in the “steps” of Lewis and Clark. A few words of caution from the website:If your boat gets stuck in the mud, you’ll have to wait for the tides to return to loosen it. (Eeesh!)
Just a little further west on SR-4 will bring you to the sprawling Julia Butler Hansen National Wildlife Refuge (It also extends across the river into Oregon) It is a huge ecosystem of birds, fish, deer, marshlands, river sloughs and more and is absolutely worth a visit. Any of the viewing areas are great for a quick visit, but check out the White Tail Trail and connecting Steamboat Slough Road for a beautiful and serene afternoon.
The Julia Butler Hansen Refuge for the Columbian White-tailed Deer
I didn’t see any deer, but the views were beautiful
Sweeping views and beautiful landscapes!
Wahkiakum County is gorgeous!
Big, beautiful trees at the wildlife preserve
After taking in the lovely scene at the wildlife refuge, I continued on SR-4 towards the bucolic, riverside town of Skamokawa. (Pronounced SKA-MA-KA-WAY and means ‘Smoke on the water’ in Chinook.) Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, Skamokawa has long been an important outpost in the area. Until 1917, there were no roads to the area and travel was made primarily by boat using the river and connecting sloughs. The majority of homes were built on or facing the water and had docks and boardwalks connecting them to other parts of the village. Steamboats and tugboats were common in the area and greatly contributed to the local salmon fishing and logging commerce. It was quite a bustling area in its heyday.
The idyllic Brooks Slough on the way to Skamokawa
Makes me want to hop on a steamboat
Looks like that boat has been there for a while…
For a great overview of the town and its history, don’t miss a stop at the Riverlife Interpretive Center and museum. (c. 1894 – Originally known as the Central School) The displays are well-curated and showcase many examples of life in early Skamokawa as well as spectacular views of the town and river. On my recent visit, I had the pleasure of meeting Pam Emery, the president of the Friends of Skamokawa historical society. She graciously shared with me much about the town’s history along with giving me great dining and tourist recommendations for the surrounding areas. The center also features local artisan wares and I was happy to pick up a jar of delicious caramel apple butter from Island’s End Farm and a lovely bar of soap from Elochoman Valley Soapworks. Check out the center’s upcoming Deck the Hall Christmas and Holiday Open House for even more local goodies. (Nov 29 – Dec 15, check website for hours)
Yum!!
Make sure you climb to the top of the schoolhouse!
Inside the former school
This soap smells sooooo good!
The lovely gift shop area
The Riverlife Interpretive Center – Formerly the Central School
‘Lots to learn about upstairs!
And fire in the skyyyyy!
For Ryan and Beth
Boats of the Columbia River and Skamokawa area
After learning about the area at the interpretive center, do a little exploring on your own and imagine what life on the river might’ve been like all those years ago. A few places to help you with your Skamokawa adventuring:
Situated on an inlet of the Columbia River, the Skamokawa Resort features lodging, conference facilities, a dock, wonderful water views and a nice little general store. It is now on my bucket list to return to the area for a few days of kayaking and general relaxation. I’m sure a few hours sitting in the gazebo and taking in the view will also be a part of my plan…
A little greenery adds color to the docks
Just give me a book and a long afternoon… And some wine…
Even the birds love a good gazebo!
Resort life on the river
Serene afternoon at the Skamokawa Resort
Lovely clapboard lodging on the river
Stock up on supplies at the General Store
Just up the road from the Skamokawa Resort, The Duck Inn offers classic pub and diner specialties with great views of the Columbia River.
Part of my bucket list planning will most certainly involve Columbia River Kayaking. Featuring instruction and guide services in the area, they’ve been outfitting adventures since 2003. I’m very much looking forward to gliding through the waters of the Columbia as they head out to sea…
Just a peaceful day on the slough
A pretty sweet back yard!
Boat from house to resort!
Yep, I could do the river life…
For amazing views of the river with awesome sandy beaches and wildlife, head to Vista Park, just past the center of Skamokawa. They have great camping spots and also feature yurts and tepee rentals! In June, take advantage of the gusty river winds and check out the Skamokawa Kite Festival. (June 28-29)
Just a little further west on SR-4, stop by the Skamokawa Farmstead Creamery to enjoy a bit of delicious goat cheese and visit with the resident goats.
Vista Park has it all!
Clouds and sand… Nice.
What a view! Some might even call it a vista…
Who says the Columbia doesn’t have sandy beaches??
Sometimes a cloudy day is a beautiful thing.
A tepee on the beach!
Continuing west on SR-4, keep an eye out for the Loop Road turn-off to the Grays River Covered Bridge. Located in the beautiful Grays River area, the iconic bridge is the last covered bridge in service in Washington State. Built in 1905 and on theNational Register of Historic Places, the bridge is a picturesque tribute to days gone by. The surrounding Ahlberg Park and farmlands are stunning and the feeling of peace in the area is transcendent. For a gorgeous look at the countryside, cross back over the bridge and take the Loop Road side route out of the area. (It connects back to SR-4 a little further west) Once back on SR-4 stop in at Duffy’s Irish Pub for a tasty, traditional pub-style meal and a pint. You can’t miss its quirky, entirely unique exterior!
Spooky and charming at the same time!
I actually had to back out as someone was already coming in the opposite direction!
And extra shelter assist from the giant trees!
More giant trees in Ahlberg Park. Stop to take a rest and admire the scene.
Waiting for the horseman…
Don’t miss stopping at Duffy’s!
Nearing the border of Wahkiakum and Pacific Counties as well as the bridge from Washington to Oregon, I wanted to stop at a few more Lewis and Clark checkpoints before my Wahkiakum County adventure came to an end. I’d always been curious about Pillar Rock in the Altoona area, so when I saw the turn-off signs in the Rosburg area, off I went! (Pro tip: If you happen to be hungry, the Rosburg Store at the turn-off for Altoona-Pillar Rock Road offers very tasty burgers, sandwiches, pizza and soup – along with all the standard convenience store fare.)
The Altoona-Pillar Rock Road is a beautiful drive, but very winding; especially once it begins to hug the shores of the river. It’s all worth it, however. To say the views of the Columbia were stunning would be an understatement and each time I stopped to admire the view, it was hard to get back in the car.
Along the way, I stopped to investigate the Lewis and Clark road markers and learned the area was an important part of the final days of their journey. It was only a few miles up the river where on November 7th, 1805 they first spotted the Pacific Ocean and William Clark famously recorded in his journal, “Ocian in view! O! The Joy!” (His spelling, not mine) It would require several more days of stormy weather and setbacks around the nearby Dismal Nitch area, but two weeks later, the Lewis and Clark expedition miraculously and finally reached the glorious Pacific Ocean. The anticipated Northwest Passage was not to be found, but the eventual expansion of the US was due largely to all that Lewis and Clark discovered in its pursuit.
An amazing view of the Columbia River from Altoona-Pillar Rock Road
Looking out towards one of the last camp areas of the Lewis and Clark Expedition
Envision Lewis and Clark sailing right through this area…
If you’d like to further take in the scene of the final days of Lewis and Clark’s trek to the ocean, there are various bed and breakfasts to be found in and around the Altoona area. (Check out VRBO or Airbnb for options) There is also the charming Rose Creek Retreat which features private campsites along the Columbia, surrounded by beautiful gardens and native plants. (April to December – No RVs or large campers)
Note: The Altoona-Pillar Rock Road culminates in a dead end on private property. The owner of the property and his dog are very nice, but I’m fairly certain they appreciate their privacy and would prefer to keep said property private. I’d recommend turning around before the road ends.
Beautiful homes along Altoona-Pillar Rock Road
Lewis and Clark traveled right through this area.
I don’t believe I spotted the actual Pillar Rock during my explorations, but I did take in some pretty amazing views. As it was a clear day, I could also see the spectacular Astoria-Megler Bridge off in the distance, heralding views of the joyous Pacific Ocean just beyond. Had I more time during my adventure, I would have taken the bridge over to nearby Astoria, Oregon; gateway to the amazing Oregon Coast as well as setting for the classic Spielberg film, Goonies. Check out the Oregon Film Museum in Astoria for more info about Goonies and other films made in the area. (And remember: Goonies never say die!)
I never did find Pillar Rock, but this is another of the cool basalt pillars in the area
Looking out towards the Astoria Bridge and the Pacific Ocean
Goonies never say die!! (Picked up on my Kittitas County adventure)
Wrapping up my time in Wahkiakum County brought me to a place which spoke deeply to my own history and roots. Even though many of the Finnish immigrants of the late 1800s settled in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan and surrounding areas (my grandmother’s family included), a large group of immigrants found their way to Washington State’s Wahkiakum and Pacific Counties. One such community is Deep River, located just near the border of Wahkiakum and Pacific Counties.
They were drawn to the area for its rich salmon fishing and timber industries, both of which were mainstays in their native Finland. (I knew there was a reason I love salmon so much – it’s in my DNA. Science!) The Finnish immigrants thrived in the area and felt a kinship with the wilds of the Northwest and its familiar bounty. While the area’s salmon and logging industries have greatly declined over the years, many families of these immigrants still call the Deep River area home. The Deep River Pioneer Lutheran Church, on the National Register of Historic Places, was completed by Finnish immigrants in 1902 and is open during the bi-annual Finnish American Folk Festival, held in the neighboring Finnish community of Naselle. (July 24-26, 2020)
Come and celebrate Finland!
The salmon industry was key to the Wahkiakum economy. (Display found in the Riverlife Interpretive Center, Skamokawa)
On my way out of Wahkiakum County, I was tinkering with my road trip playlist when I came across a new album by Deep River resident, Krist Novoselic. Living on a farm in the area seems to have really inspired his art as Butterfly Launches from Spar Pole is a unique and interesting homage to the area’s flora and fauna. (And a definite departure from his Nirvana days) After having spent only a short time in the area, it’s easy to see how such a peaceful and historically rich setting can inspire such tribute.
Native Americans, explorers, farmers, fishermen, Finns and famous Grunge artists have all called the Wahkiakum area home over the years and it is certain to attract many more adventurous souls in years to come. I know I’m happy to have spent only a day exploring its treasures – and I intend to spend many more in the future. It may indeed be one of the smallest counties in the state, but it is filled with adventure and ever so big in heart.
Until next time, eat the state!!
Cheers!
Come visit the beautiful backroads of Wahkiakum County! (Taken on Loop Road near the Grays River Covered Bridge)
Welcome to Canada, our lovely neighbor to the north. Sweeping mountain ranges, rugged coastlines, raw wilderness and a lot of snow make Canada a veritable wonderland of adventure. Living in Washington, I feel incredibly lucky to be just a quick drive away from the border and have taken advantage of this convenience many times over the years. One of North America’s premier cosmopolitan cities, Vancouver B.C. is but a *two-hour drive from Seattle and one of the most amazing places to ski in the world, Whistler-Blackcomb, is a couple of hours beyond Vancouver. (*Depending on border waits) As neighbors, we have so much in common and so many similarities to keep us close. However, whenever I cross the border and the traffic signs suddenly go metric – or I pull into the gas station and the prices are by liter (or litre, in Canada) – I feel as if I’ve been magically transported to the other side of the world.
Canada is a powerhouse all on its own – and a sprawling one, at that. It is the second largest country in the world by total area (land and water) and the fourth largest country in the world by land alone. I will never forget the first time I drove past Vancouver B.C. towards Whistler. Well-accustomed to the lofty mountain ranges and open spaces of Washington, I was still not prepared for the epic majesty of the Coast Mountains and the spectacular Sea-to-Sky Highway (BC Highway 99) which guides you closely along Pacific Ocean inlets and into the vast wilds of the Canadian wilderness. I was simply put, slack-jawed and amazed. The first time I saw the monolithic face of The Stawamus Chief (second-largest granite monolith in the world) or the soaring panorama of endless peaks from atop Blackcomb are visions which shall live forever glorious in my mind’s eye.
Endless mountain peaks as seen from the top of Blackcomb, above Whistler Village
For this particular Canadian adventure, we kept it closer to the shoreline and fairly close to home. My Scotophile friends, Kristen, Tori and I were in need of whisky, bagpipes and kilts – and maybe a bit of haggis and the tossing of heavy objects. In short, we wanted to find a good Highland games event to attend. There are several great Highland games during the summer in Washington State, but given Canada’s close ties to England, Ireland and Scotland, there are many to be found in Canada as well. Since Victoria, B.C. is just a quick ferry ride away and they’ve been hosting a Highland games for the past 156 years, we figured it would be a great spot to fulfill all of our Scottish dreams. (And my pal Kristen and I are still financially recovering from our recent adventures to the actual Highlands of Scotland)
Combine the welcoming, good nature of Canada with the beautiful wilds of the Pacific Northwest and the pomp and grandeur of Britain and you come close to concocting the unique setting that is Victoria, B.C. Situated on the southern tip of Vancouver Island and named for Queen Victoria, Victoria is not only an amazing place to visit, it is also the capital of the province of British Columbia. Many important goings-on take place in this quaint city along with the regular flow of tourism.
The stately front of the British Columbia Parliament Building in downtown Victoria B.C.
Head to the Waterfront in downtown Seattle and sail to Victoria via the passenger-only Victoria Clipper. The journey is a little under three hours and it’s likely you’ll see marine life along the way. They also offer a bevy of hotel, car and sightseeing package deals which are very worth checking out. On a recent trip, just as we were getting close to the Victoria harbor, a pod of orcas was swimming not too far off the port side. To add to the majesty, there was a rainbow perfectly situated over the harbor as we pulled into dock. WOW!
If you’re up for a gorgeous bird’s-eye view of the Puget Sound, hop aboard a seaplane flight with Kenmore Air. Many friends have made the journey, but it is still on my travel bucket-list. SOON!
If you’re coming from mainland B.C., head through Vancouver and cross to Victoria on the Tsawwassen – Swartz Bay (The ferry accommodates both foot passengers and vehicles) The crossing time to Swartz Bay is 1 hour and 35 minutes.
You can also utilize the Washington State Ferry out of Anacortes in Skagit County. (The ferry accommodates both foot passengers and vehicles) They offer a 3-hour cruise to Sidney B.C. which is a 20-minute drive outside of Victoria. (Pro Tip: If you are driving, reservations are strongly recommended.)
View of the Port Townsend Dock from aboard the MV Coho
looking out from Port Townsend on the MV Coho
Checking out the MV Coho display inside the ferry terminal
Cool exhibits to be found inside the ferry terminal
The MV Coho can move the big rigs!
Looking back towards the US as we sailed on to Canada
In order to make the most of our few days in Victoria, we had made reservations for the first sailing out of Port Angeles. The morning was crisp and the water smooth; the makings of a beautiful journey! Once aboard, we got the lay of the vintage ship and staked out a few seats with a view out over the bow. (The MV Coho has been in operation since 1959 and they’ve largely kept the vintage décor.) Since it was early and I’d only gotten a few hours of sleep, caffeine was high on the list of things to do. We found our way to the cafeteria, which is adjacent to the tiny, but well-stocked gift shop, and loaded up on breakfast goodies and strong coffee. There’s something great to be said about warming your hands with a steaming cup of coffee while looking out over the bow of a ship. Ahhhh….
I loved all of the vintage signage aboard the ship
I felt like I was stepping back in time aboard the MV Coho
More great vintage signage
Not much has changed in the past 50 years
Time to go drink some coffee on the deck…
A lovely scene out on the deck…
Tiny, but packed with cool gifts!
You can bring your bike!
Looking out over the bow of the ship, towards Victoria
After fully perusing the ship and refueling with caffeine, we hit up the on-board Tour Desk to find out about special deals for various tours in the Victoria area. It’s definitely worth checking out and not only will you save a few dollars, but you’ll be able to skip the sometimes long ticket lines at the given attraction. We opted for tickets to Butchart Gardens, the Butterfly Gardens and the Royal B.C. Museum. We were all set for our first two days of touring and we hadn’t even docked yet!
The Pursers Office, just across from the Tour Desk
That’s some expertly coiled rope, to be sure…
What a beautiful morning!
As we sailed into Victoria’s Inner Harbour, we were met with the beautiful skyline of downtown Victoria. The vibrant Causeway Marina, the glorious Parliament Building and the stunning Empress Hotel were all there to greet us. The scene was bustling with boats coming and going, tourists renting scooters and tour buses shuttling visitors off to neighboring attractions. (There are many bus tours available through the MV Coho and Victoria Clipper tour desks) The area near the stately Steamship Grill & Bar (the old Heritage Steamship Terminal building, c. 1924) is a great pick-up/drop-off point with many excursions taking off from the general vicinity. Not too far from the Inner Harbour, especially if you happen to be entering the area via cruise ship, is Fisherman’s Wharf. Colorful float homes, restaurants, shops, live music and more make this another great waterfront area to explore.
The MV Coho in the Inner Harbour
Sailing into the Inner Harbour – along with a sea plane!
Turning the corner into the Inner Harbour
As we’d arrived fairly early on a Thursday morning, we had time to fit in some of the more popular tourist destinations. Since we were only visiting for a few days and it was the very busy Victoria Day 3-day weekend, we wanted to get ahead of the crowds. (Victoria Day celebrates Queen Victoria’s birthday and is the unofficial start of summer in Canada. It falls on the last Monday in May, preceding the 25th.)
After switching my GPS over to accommodate the metric system and Canadian byways, we struck out towards the spectacular Butchart Gardens, located about 30 minutes outside of Victoria. It was a grey morning and threatening rain, but we maintained our hope for things to clear up. That said, we’re from the Pacific Northwest and are typically prepared for any type of weather. Most of the time…
Hello there, Butchart Gardens!
To say that the Butchart Gardens are a marvel in horticultural design would be an absurd understatement. They are an amazing display of design, cultivation, whimsy, passion and vision. Originally masterminded by Jennie Butchart beginning in the early 1900s, utilizing the old limestone quarry in her backyard, it has grown (literally) into an absolute national treasure. After being gifted The Gardens in 1939, Jennie’s grandson, Ian Ross has continued to enhance and expand the garden experience into what greets modern-day visitors.
Once we’d gotten past our initial ooo’s and ahhh’s, we formed a strategy to help us both enjoy and see all of the grounds during our brief stay. There is so much to take in and so many garden themes and landscapes to enjoy – we didn’t want to miss anything! As we wound around beautifully manicured trails and flower-filled alcoves, we popped out at the fantastical view overlooking the famous Sunken Gardens. Words can’t fully express the breathtakingly beautiful scene, so please enjoy some pictures!
Looking down into the famous Sunken Gardens
The artistry is mind-boggling!
Waterfalls, native plants and more grace the Sunken Gardens
A sneaky view of the Sunken Gardens from a little cabin above
The most lovely of picture frames…
To be honest, I would’ve probably been fine having only seen the Sunken Gardens. My mind was swimming in a glorious flower explosion and I couldn’t imagine anything could compare. However, since I knew, based on long-ago visits, the rest of the grounds absolutely could compare, off we went to the next amazing scene. (I do wish we could’ve been there on a summer Saturday night to see the excellent fireworks show from the Sunken Gardens, but that will have to wait for another visit.)
There are faeries in the fountain…
Fountain faeries!
A fountain faerie dance!
Over the course of the next couple of hours, we visited Italy, Japan, the Mediterranean and England, not to mention the beauty of the native Pacific Northwest landscape which brings it all together. It seemed around each corner was a new, mind-boggling panorama to leave us speechless. Again, since words fail me when attempting to fully describe the beauty, here are a few more pictures!
Bear topiaries!
Beautiful dragon fountain
Dragon in the Japanese Gardens
A hidden portal looking out to the water
The beautiful Japanese Gardens
The exotic hanging lamp tree
Manicured lawns and beautiful rose gardens
What a sight for a wedding!
Beautiful pagoda in the Japanese Gardens
Beautiful pond near the Mediterranean Gardens
Sea Serpent fountain
Total zen in the Japanese Gardens
After all of our gallivanting around the flowers, it’s fair to say we’d become a little peckish. Since there are several dining spots on the garden grounds, it wasn’t hard to find something to fulfill our needs. We’d considered afternoon tea at The Dining Room, but since it’s a more leisurely affair, we opted for a less formal and more expedited lunch at the Blue Poppy Restaurant. It was just what we needed and soon enough, we were back to exploring the grounds and finishing it off with a stop into their lovely gift shop. (Because of course we did! Several dainty tea cups were chanting my name and I’d be a monster to not heed their call…) There are also several quick snack spots dotted around grounds for on-the-go occasions. Coffee and ice cream accompaniments for your flower viewing pleasure!
A lovely lantern to light your way
One of the cafes on the garden grounds
Right out of a Monet!
I love pansies!
Follow the purple path!
We were there for tulip season
Gorgeous NW favorites!
So very lovely!
After getting our fill of flowers and teacups, we drove back up the road a few miles to get our fill of butterflies and wine. (As one does…) Since Kristen and Tori were more excited about the Butterfly Gardens and I was more excited about doing some wine tasting, we decided to divide and conquer. Conveniently, since the beautiful vineyards of Church & State Wines were basically next door to the Butterfly Gardens, it all worked out quite nicely. I hear-tell Kristen and Tori very much enjoyed communing with the butterflies. I, too, enjoyed my communing…
I’m not a fan of bananas, but apparently butterflies love them! (Photo credit: K. Spoor)
Beautiful butterfly action! (Photo credit: K. Spoor)
Flamingos and Koi fish at the Butterfly Gardens (Photo credit: K. Spoor)
Flamingos and butterflies living together in harmony (Photo credit: K. Spoor)
Butterflies AND parrots! (Photo credit: K. Spoor)
Church & State Wine sits overlooking their vineyard and rolling grounds. The main tasting room and restaurant is spacious and there is an outdoor, covered seating area with a great view of the vineyards. Since it was a Thursday afternoon, they weren’t super crowded and I easily found a seat at the tasting bar. Upon learning more about their wine from the well-informed Sommelier, I sampled a few and enjoyed a lovely locally-sourced cheese selection alongside. I very much enjoyed their Trebella and Viognier and opted to bring home a couple bottles of the Trebella. (One of which actually made it home – We enjoyed one that evening at our Airbnb) I guess I’ll have to return to pick up a few more bottles. Oh no!!
Located a few minutes away from Church and State Wines is De Vine Wines & Spirits. They’re not only a winery and vineyard, but also a distillery! I was hoping to visit on this trip, but the afternoon had gotten away from us and it was time to locate our Airbnb. No worries – I’ll be back soon!
Beautiful vineyards at Church & State
Sit out on the deck and enjoy a glass
Welcome to Church & State!
The tasting bar was alllllll mine!
Cool decor at Church & State
A lovely wine list for tasting!
What a fabulous afternoon respite…
I’ll them all!
After we pulled ourselves away from the butterflies and viognier (sounds like a Hallmark movie), we plotted our course to the Airbnb. It turned out to be the lower-half of a cute home in a Victoria suburb with a private entrance in the back. Sweet! The hosts were a very kind family who had just begun to open their home to Airbnb guests. If you have a car, staying at an Airbnb a little outside of town can save a good chunk of change. We were about 20-minutes away from downtown Victoria and the drive into town was main thoroughfare most of the way. Additionally, we were more centrally located for visiting the surrounding towns. Win-win!
Once we’d settled in at the Airbnb, we took a little bit of time to relax and recharge for a night on the town. (But not too late a night as I’d been up and driving since 4am. We were all a bit tired, suffice to say.) Since we were in town for the Highland games, we decided to look for something along the lines of Shepherd’s Pie and Guinness Stew for dinner… Yes, please! And if I could find a place with a good Scotch egg, all the better!
Enter Irish Times, a traditional Irish pub in the heart of downtown Victoria. Both Kristen and I had been there before and knew they could fulfill at least two of our culinary needs. But did they win the trifecta with an entry of the Scotch egg? Why, YES – yes, they did! If you’ve never had a Scotch egg and you happen to see it on a menu – order it! It’s a soft-boiled egg rolled in crumbled sausage, breaded and fried. How can you go wrong?? Ohhh, delicious Scotch egg, how I love thee so… The only thing I found vaguely off about our Irish Times experience was their inclusion of ice in the cider pints. Why?? I’ve seen it a couple of other times on past Victoria visits. I need to get to the bottom of these icy cider shenanigans…
The stately Irish Times pub in downtown Victoria
Outdoor seating at the Irish Times
Traditional pub decor at the Irish Times
What’s with the ice in the cider???
A room with a view at the Irish Times
Tasty burgers at the Irish Times
Delicious lobster bisque at the Irish Times
Tasty Guinness Stew!
SCOTCH EGG FOR THE WIN!!
After our delicious dinner, we were completely full and positively spent. We didn’t have much left to give, but we figured it best to at least walk off a few of the calories we’d just consumed. (Hello there, Scotch egg…) We hit up the fantastic Munro’s Books and found a few great books and generally wandered around the area for a little while. We didn’t have it in us to make it over to nearby Russell Books, but that’s also a great spot for the bookworm. Next time!
Inside the lovely Munro’s Books
A very important book I picked up at Munro’s (Seattle author!)
So many great titles to choose from!
If you’re like us and always on the hunt for good pub food and a well-pulled pint, Victoria has so much to offer. It’s like walking down a street in London or Edinburgh – great pubs everywhere! A few of the places we didn’t get to on this visit, but have enjoyed on past stays:
The Churchill, located in the downtown area, hosts a modern pub menu and a rather large taps list. Cozy, low-key atmosphere and ‘lots of good beer – Sounds good!
The Sticky Wicket is located in downtown and features a modern pub menu, a good drink selection, a games room and hotel lodging.
Garrick’s Head Pub has been serving hungry and thirsty Canadians since 1867. They serve classics like shepherd’s pie and bangers and mash, but they also feature a more modern side with nods to Pacific Northwest favorites and seafood. They also have a pretty impressive taps selection.
Whether it’s poutine, fish & chips or perhaps a duck burger, Swan’s Brewery & Pub has you covered. They also feature an onsite brewery, a liquor store and a hotel. All the things!
Spinnakers is Canada’s oldest craft brewpub and a great place to relax out of the downtown hub. They’re located across the Johnson Street Bridge, past Chinatown and also feature guest house lodging. And they have a tea-infused beer – so terribly British!
If you happen to be heading back from Butchart Gardens, Todd Creek Craft Cider is a lovely cidery located not too far off of Highway 17.
Should you want to venture further north on Vancouver Island, Merridale Cidery & Distillery is about a 45-minute drive out of town. Located in the tiny town of Cobble Hill, they feature cider, spirits and a restaurant and if you get too tired to drive back to Victoria, they have yurts! Keep an eye out for their new location coming to the Victoria Dockside area.
And for a few great festival and tour options to compliment your pub quests:
Great Canadian Beer Festival – Check out Canada’s oldest/longest running Brewfest! Happening every Labour Day (First Monday in September in Canada) 90+ craft breweries, cideries and food trucks. Yes, please!
West Coast Brewery Tours offers 3-hour tours of many of the local breweries. (Brewery tour lists often changes from day to day – collect them all!) They also offer tours of local distilleries, wineries cideries and food options. What a great way to spend the afternoon!
Canadian Craft Tours offer fabulous food, wine, beer, distillery tours and more! Operating out of both British Columbia and Alberta, they cover a lot of amazing territory and delicious treats.
The Churchill Pub – right next door to Murchie’s Tea!
Great pubs around every corner!
I’m fairly certain none of us had any issues with insomnia that night. After we made it back to the Airbnb, we all promptly retired to our rooms and if Kristen and Tori were anything like me, they were out within minutes of hitting the pillow. Even though we were on vacation, we’d planned a pretty packed itinerary and needed to get up early the next day to fit it all in. There are so many amazing things to see and do in Victoria! Dreams of morning coffee and afternoon tea filled my head as I drifted off to a well-earned sleep…
The next morning came much earlier than felt reasonable, but our itinerary was raring to go. We’d planned to get in some early morning hiking outside of town and what better way to fuel our morning adventure than with some Canadian morning fuel. Enter the Canadian breakfast of champions, Tim Hortons! (Dear Tim Hortons, Please open stores on the US west coast. Thank you! Your Pal, Dayna)
Donuts, great coffee, breakfast sandwiches, donuts, tea, pastries, donuts, donuts, DONUTS!! They’re now also serving delicious Cold Stone Creamery ice cream. You can’t go wrong at Tim Horton’s. I stop at the Squamish location on every Whistler trip and pretty much any other time I see one. That morning, we all enjoyed tasty breakfast sandwiches and I’m fairly certain a few donuts were also involved. Did I mention they have great donuts?
Dear Tim Hortons, I love you. Sincerely, Dayna.
With bellies full of coffee and donuts, we made our way north on Highway 17 towards Island View Beach Regional Park. Only 20 minutes out of town, it’s a great place to stroll along the beach and take in the views of Haro Strait, James Island and our own San Juan Island and Mt. Baker. It was a somewhat hazy morning, but things were starting to clear a little as we walked along the water and enjoyed the scene. The park also offers RV and tent camping should you want to get closer to nature and still be close to the city. It was a lovely way to work off a few of those donut calories…
I’d also hoped to visit Coles Bay Regional Park that morning as it’s only about a 20-minute drive from Island View Beach and affords a great view of the water on the Saanich Inlet side of the peninsula. As it’s also located on Inverness Road, I thought it seemed rather appropriate given the purpose of our Victoria visit! But alas, we realized we’d have to cut a few things off the itinerary in order to make it to the places for which we’d already purchased tickets. (The small drawback to purchasing in advance – you need to actually make it to the places to get your money’s worth. Heh.)
So much cool driftwood!
A lovely morning looking out towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca
A lovely beach stroll to get the day started
‘Lots of uses for driftwood along the beach
Beautiful beach-side finds…
Looking over to James Island
As Vancouver Island is a wonderland of outdoor opportunities, I still have many places on my bucket list left to visit. Here are but a few of the spots I’m hoping to soon check off my list:
The West Coast Trail is at the top of my ‘Canadian Hikes’ bucket list. It’s an epic 47-mile coastal trail used by the First Nations for hundreds of years before any explorers arrived. From their website: Hikers climb more than 100 ladders with a heavy pack, trudge through deep mud, wade through mountain-fed rivers in fast-flowing hip-deep waters, and push through whatever weather the wild West Coast delivers — often driving wind and rain. YES!! I’m IN!!! (Note: A reservation is needed to make this trek.)
Check out Jordan Falls Regional Park for beautiful trails through cedar-filled rainforest. The trails lead down to beaches along the Strait of Juan de Fuca with views of the Olympic Peninsula. Don’t miss the gorgeous Sandcut Beach Waterfalls which fall directly onto the pebbled beach. Camping available.
Goldstream Provincial Park is located close to Victoria, but offers all the deep-forest features. BIG trees, hiking trails, waterfalls and camping – All just a 30-minute drive from downtown!
The Coast Trail and Aylard Farm area offers both an epic weekend backpacking adventure along with accessible picnic areas for daytrip relaxing. Great views of the Strait of Juan de Fuca, including Coast Salish First Nation ancient Petroglyphsfound at Alldridge Point.
The Juan de Fuca Provincial Trail is yet another epic Vancouver Island trail. Roughly 27-miles along the west coast of the island, it provides great shoreline access and stunning views. China Beach and Mystic Beach are two of the areas I’m really looking forward to checking out.
One part of Vancouver Island I’m very excited to investigate is the Carmanah Walbran Provincial Park and Central Walbran Valley. Beautiful rainforest and some of the world’s largest spruce trees make it one of the more stunning spots on the island – and the grandest, old-growth rainforest in Canada. Also in the area is the Gonzales Hill Observatory at Walbran Park. A perfect spot to check out the night skies.
For beautiful rainforest trails close to town, head to Francis King Regional Park. The Centennial Trail basically circles around the park and hooks up with the High Ridge Trail. It begins at the Nature Centre, which is open on weekends until 4pm.
Beautiful shrubbery of Vancouver Island
Since we’d worked off a bit of our Tim Horton’s donut feast, it seemed reasonable to consider where we’d be eating lunch; Or at least some sort of tasty snack and maybe a pint of… Cider! Since I’d put nearby Sea Cider on my list of hopefuls for the trip, we struck out to see what kind of sustenance they could provide.
Open daily from 11am to 4pm, Sea Cider, located in the Saanichton community (situated on the Sannich Peninsula), is a quick 25-minute drive from downtown Victoria. The tasting room offers both indoor and outdoor deck seating and is a lovely place to spend a sunny afternoon. They offer tasty small plates as complement to their delicious ciders and I was particularly impressed with their Rum Runner cider. (Of which I’ve been hoarding at home. One of these days I’m going to give in… Or return for more!)
Welcome to lovely Sea Cider!
Lovely view from the deck seating
Tasty snacks at Sea Cider
Cider and snacks!
Sigh… A lovely place to enjoy the afternoon
Inside at Sea Cider
I’m still hoarding it!
Other spots in the Saanichton and North Saanich area for tasty food and beverage:
On the way to Sea Cider, Victoria Caledonian Distillery and Twa Dogs Brewery offers all the best in beer AND whisky! Run by native Scotsman, Graeme Macaloney, he brings a wee bit of the tasty Highlands to Victoria. Slàinte mhath! (Open daily. Check website for hours.)
Symphony Vineyard, located in the Saanichton area, features delicious wine in a beautiful setting. (Open Saturdays and Sundays from 11am – 5pm.)
Located in North Saanich on the Saanich Peninsula, about 16 miles north of Victoria, Muse Winery / Deep Cove Winery offers delicious boutique wines in a beautiful setting. (Open Friday thru Sunday, 12-5pm)
Also located in North Saanich, the Roost Bistro & Farm Bakery has a bit of all things good. Great wine, a tasty bistro menu, a farm-style bakery and beautiful grounds. Additionally, they offer several cool tours around the grounds. (Open daily. Check out the website for hours.)
After enjoying our reasonable fill of delicious cider, we were ready to take on some hard-core, downtown Victoria sightseeing. As we’d already purchased tickets for the Royal B.C. Museum, it was first on our list. Along with their stellar, permanent collections, the museum was featuring an exhibit of ancient Mayan artifacts and we were excited to check it out.
Welcome to the Royal BC Museum!
Maya: The Great Jaguar Rises
Artifacts from the Maya exhibit
This guy’s just kickin’ back…
Artifacts from the Maya exhibit
Amazing detail from the Maya exhibit
Very unique displays at the Maya exhibit
This guy looks like he’s seen better days
Who knew Nicolas Cage was around in Mayan times??
I’ve been to the Royal B.C. in the past and I’ve always been impressed with their exhibits. This visit was no exception and the range of the Mayan exhibit was well-curated and fascinating. I particularly love their permanent Indigenous Peoples and Modern History exhibits. They feature full-scale exhibit areas where one is free to walk amongst the artifacts and displays. It’s very easy to get lost in the feeling of the era when visiting the museum and I highly recommend it to anyone visiting the area.
Real? Or museum exhibit? Hmmm…
SO realistic!
Beautiful First Nations exhibits
Permanent First Nations exhibit at the Royal BC Museum
These guys are big!
Great exhibits demonstrating the lives of indigenous peoples
Step back in time!
Well-done, full-scale exhibits take you back to early Victoria
Let’s get cookin’!
Looking down onto old Victoria’s streets
I’d sure love to take a drive in this one!
Part of the WWII display…
Located just across the street from the museum is the majestic Parliament Building. (c. 1897) It’s impossible to miss and it regally dominates that end of downtown and the Inner Harbour. It’s regularly in use during the week for official goings-on of the British Columbia parliament, but is also open for public tours. Additionally, they offer breakfast and lunch in the Parliamentary Dining Room. (Open Monday thru Friday, 11am – 1pm – when Legislature is not in session.) If you happen to be in the area at dusk, it is quite a sight to see the outlining lights of the Parliament building turn on. It’s a beautiful scene and not to be missed. (Note: As it is a government building, official ID such as passports are required for security checks upon entrance.)
View of Parliament from the Royal BC Museum
Taking a break on the steps of the Parliament Building
War monument in front of Parliament Building
Dusk at the Parliament Building
Just kitty-corner to the Parliament Building sits another icon of the downtown Victoria skyline, the ever-grand, Empress Hotel. (c. 1908) It is truly one of my favorite spots in Victoria and while on the more expensive side, well worth visiting for at least one of your Victoria stays. If anything, book a spot for one of famous, daily high-tea services. Befitting the opulence and grandeur of The Empress, the high tea is an extravagant affair to make Queen Victoria proud. Another alternative to actually staying at The Empress is to visit one of their dining rooms. On one of my last visits, I enjoyed an excellent dinner in the Q at The Empress dining room. (Pro tip: It’s possible to get some fairly decent lodging/travel packages for The Empress via the Victoria Clipper.)
The grand lady herself, The Empress Hotel
A great lounge area inside the Empress
Dine at Q at the Empress – Delicious!
Peaking in on high tea at the Empress
A fabulous wine selection!
Beautiful art installations in the lobby of the Empress
Beautiful grounds of the Empress
Since we’d done a fair share of walking and perusing, our Sea Cider affair was close to wearing off. One of the areas we really wanted to visit was the famous Fan Tan Alley, located in Chinatown. As the shops in Fan Tan Alley close between 5pm and 6pm, we needed to get moving. There are also several great restaurants in the area, so it just seemed to make sense to head in that direction.
Fan Tan Alley, the narrowest commercial street in North America, is a quirky and mysterious marvel. Once home to gambling parlors and opium dens in the late 1800s, it has gone through several stages of growth and decline over the years. It is now restored, minus the gambling and opium, and is on Canada’s National Historic Register. It hosts an eclectic collection of shops and services and is well worth a visit. It truly did remind me of exploring the winding alleyways and hidden nooks and crannies of Beijing and Shanghai. On your next Victoria visit, be sure to check out Kid Sister Ice Cream for delicious treats and Saltspring Soapworks for some very luxurious soaps and bath products. (I love their Rosemary Mint shampoo!)
Step on into Fan Tan Alley!
Ooooo – mysterious!
‘Lots of great nooks and crannies to explore in Fan Tan Alley
So cool!
Many shops are tucked into this tiny alley
I wonder where it leads…
Saltspring Soapworks
Where does it lead??
On the other side of Fan Tan Alley
Exiting out of the alley onto Fisgard Street brings you into the heart of Victoria’s historic Chinatown district. The oldest of its kind in Canada, there are a lot of stories packed into its establishments. Restaurants, shops, grocers, galleries and even a Buddhist Temple are just a few of the places you’ll find tucked into this small, but vibrant part of town.
Great scenes around Chinatown
So much to see and do in Chinatown
I love this sign!
Welcome to Chinatown!
A very cool dragon near the entrance to Chinatown on Fisgard Street
There were a few restaurants that caught our eye, but we opted to grab dinner at the aptly-named, Fan Tan Café. (Closed Wednesdays) Classic Chinese-Canadian favorites in a cozy, late-night friendly café and bar. We were all very happy with our orders and leisurely washed everything down with well-steeped pots of tea and quirky drinks featuring grenadine. While we were there during the respectable, early-dinner hours, I could easily imagine enjoying some late-night Beef Chow Funn and a grenadine-laced Tequila Sunrise…
I love the classic neon!
This combination plate with wonton soup was very tasty!
Tasty pan-fried pot stickers!
Looking out onto Fisgard Street
Since we’d gotten up fairly early and had packed in quite a bit of action into our day, we were ready to head back towards the Airbnb. Along the way to the car, we enjoyed the bustling Friday night scene and wandered into a few shops. We contemplated buying lovely sweaters at Out of Ireland, stopped in at Rogers’ Chocolates and grabbed some of their famous candies and I stocked up on my favorites at the local Lushshop. (I’m a longtime addict of their Rockstar soap and I Love Juicy shampoo.) We also thought it prudent to stop at a local grocery store on the way back to stock up on Canadian treats such as Lays Ketchup Potato Chips, dreamy Mackintosh Toffee and Ruby Kit-Kat bars. (It’s possible to get these treats online, but they’re definitely pricier when ordering from within the US.)
Tasty treats from Canada and beyond!
Since there are only so many hours in the day and we had definitely overloaded our itinerary, a few amazing spots will have to be saved for our next visit. If you make it there before us, here are a few very cool options to consider:
I have visited Craigdarroch Castle on past trips, but never get tired of taking in its majestic and storied scenery. Built by local coal baron, Robert Dunsmuir during the late 1800s, it’s now on the Canadian National Register of Historic Places and is quite a look into the luxurious life of the Victorian-era, Victoria elite.
In keeping with the castle theme, Hatley Castle is high on my list for the next visit. Built in 1908 and now a part of the Royal Roads University grounds, it is a beautiful turn-of-last-century example of design and opulence. Additionally, it has been the setting for many movies and television shows such as Deadpool, Arrow, X-Men: The Last Stand, X-Men 2, Smallville, Masterminds (Patrick Stewart) and MACGYVER. (Nerd Alert: These are all some of my favorites! I can’t believe I haven’t visited yet…)
Learn about the secrets and shady past of Victoria’s bygone days with the Discover the Past Ghostly Walks I love these type of tours and Victoria definitely has some good tales to tell. The tour starts at 9:30pm from in front of the Empress.
Another walking tour outfit, Off the Eaten Track, offers culinary tours featuring adventures such as Gourmet Victoria Dinner & Drinks and Eat Like a Canadian. Sounds good, eh?
Located in the downtown area, Axe and Grind features…AXE THROWING! They even have a league. It’s $21.23 CAD for 1 hour session and sounds AWESOME. What could possibly go wrong?? I have to admit to being pretty bummed we didn’t get to check this out. NEXT TIME.
If throwing axes isn’t your thing, how about flying through the air on a zipline? Or mastering an aerial obstacle course? Wildplay Element Park is located outside of Victoria and is about a 30-minute drive from downtown.
I’ve visited the Art Gallery of Greater Victoria on past trips and have always enjoyed their featured exhibits as well as their permanent collections. With so much beautiful artwork in a beautiful gallery space, it’s definitely worth a visit.
Victoria is all about the Arts – and The Force!
After another well-earned sleep, we were up early to take in the highlight of our trip, the 156th annual Victoria Highland Games & Celtic Festival at Topaz Park. As one of longest running Highland games in Canada, it is quite an affair and we were very excited to enjoy it – Haggis and all! We’d initially thought of stopping in at the Moss Street Farmer’s Market or the Victoria Public Market at the Hudson on our way to the games, but decided to make a beeline for the bagpipes. I love a good farmers market, but I’ll have to save it for next visit.
With events occurring for a week prior to the actual games, you can enjoy several days of Scottish and Celtic celebration. Kicking off with the Tartan Parade through downtown Victoria on the Saturday prior and including the Tilted Kilt Pubcrawl, there are many ways to get excited for the weekend festivities.
As we’d gotten an early start, we were among the first to head through the gates. (Which also allowed for some great parking!) Things were just getting started and as we entered the grounds and we were greeted with a morning fanfare of traditional bagpipe melodies. Everywhere we looked, people were dressed in full kilt regalia, period costume and all things plaid. The morning was brilliantly sunny and it had the makings of a glorious, Scots-filled day. Now to find some tasty Scottish treats!
Words of wisdom from Master Yoda (A festival jewelry vendor kindly gave me this from her display!)
Darth MacVader?
Treats!!
ALL of these treats were soooo delicious. Och aye!
Pick out your own!
Plaid and kilts!
Walking around the grounds, it was no trouble finding an abundance of Scottish goodies; Not to mention kilts, Scottish clan information, accessories and more. However, since we wanted to catch the opening of the ceremony and the massing of the bands, we temporarily curbed our shopping and found a good viewing spot on the main parade grounds.
You either love bagpipes – or you hate ‘em. I absolutely love them and they never fail to inspire me. Seeing and hearing hundreds of pipers and drummers massing together and marching in time is truly a glorious thing. (Again, I love the bagpipes. I can see how this might not appeal to someone who doesn’t…) The musicians did not disappoint and it was a great start to a sunny, Victoria morning. And even though it was spring in the Pacific Northwest, I was wishing I’d applied more sunscreen…
The massing of the bands kicking off the day
They made quite a majestic sound!
After enjoying the bands, we did a bit of shopping and browsing. We all found things we couldn’t live without and stocked up on various Scottish treats. While shortbread and toffee can certainly be enjoyed as a meal, it seemed like a good time to check out the more hearty offerings of the food vendors. (And the beer tent!) Kristen and Tori opted for traditional fish & chips, but since there was an actual haggisstand, that’s where I lined up. I know it doesn’t sound immediately appealing and I was skeptical the first time I tried it, but I’ve grown to love haggis; especially when served with whisky gravy, tatties and neeps. (Mashed potatoes and mashed turnips/rutabagas) I’d liken haggis to a cross between sausage and corned beef hash.
The Company Lager was great!
Haggis and tatties with whisky gravy!
They made a pretty tasty haggis!
Some Scottish step dancers performing while we enjoyed lunch
In addition to our tasty lunches, we enjoyed a beer along with a demonstration of Scottish dancing on the nearby stage. It’s similar to Irish step dancing and always seems very merry. It was a great accompaniment to our meal and provided a great excuse to sit down and rest for a spell. After we got our fill of the dance, we grabbed another beer and went off to locate what would be a very cool falconry demonstration and then onto the tossing of heavy objects! (And more beer!)
Taking a rest from his falconry duties
A beautiful falcon close up!
The actual ‘games’ of the Scottish games celebrations involve the tossing of items such as enormous wooden poles called ‘cabers’ and ridiculously heavy weights, shot-puts and hammers. The items are tossed for height or distance and typically involve a lot of grunting and are referred to as the ‘heavy events.’ Both men and women compete and it’s never a dull display. There is also an epic tug-of-war event that blows away any schoolyard completion I could ever recall from grade school. The athletes that participate in these events are incredibly strong and incredibly fun to watch. We were absolutely entertained and it was a great way to wrap up the afternoon.
Getting ready to toss the caber
Caber tossing underway!
The Weight for Height competition – Women’s division
The Weight for Height competition – Men’s division
After all of that traditional Scottish pageantry, we were ready for a traditional dinner at one of Victoria’s coolest pubs, Bard & Banker Public House in the heart of downtown Victoria. I’ve visited on several occasions and I’m never disappointed. This time was no exception and everything we ordered was quite tasty. It’s an expansive pub full of traditional decor and can get quite boisterous on a weekend night – perfect for celebrating after the Highland games! I always try to make it in for at least a pint on any visit. They also have a great whisky, beer and wine list.
A great idea anytime!
Outdoor seating at The Bard & Banker
A great local BC brewery!
The water of life…
Delicious seafood chowder and grilled cheese
Classic pub vibe at The Bard & Banker
Tasty burgers at The Bard & Banker
Classic roast chicken and potatoes
It’s the cupboard under the stairs of wine!
Even though we were pretty full after dinner, we were on vacation and decided we needed dessert. Not too far from the Bard & Banker, we ran across one of the most glorious purveyors of dessert glory to be found, Chocolats Flavoris. Bottom line, they serve CHOCOLATE POUTINE. Good lord. Chocolate poutine, I say!
Poutine, a traditional Canadian dish featuring French fries, cheese curds and gravy, is a heart-stopping mound of deliciousness. Their version of poutine, featuring French fry sized pastries, ice cream, marshmallows (for the cheese curds) and chocolate sauce can officially stop my heart anytime! They also serve amazing fondue, chocolate bars, customizable sundaes with one-of-a-kind sauces and more. WOW! I’d be in SO much trouble if there were one of these close to home…
Kooky up your cone or your POUTINE!
OMG – Soooooooo delicious!!! Chocolate poutine!
Their lava cake was pretty delicious, too!
If you’re not in the mood for traditional pub food, there are many options in the downtown area to suit any tastes. A few places to consider:
The 10 Acres Bistro and Kitchen are two, separate spots, directly next to each other. Featuring farm-to-table fare made with goods grown on their own farm, they’re a great place to enjoy the fresh flavors of Vancouver Island. Located in downtown Victoria, near the Inner Harbour.
Bin 4 Burger Lounge features delicious gourmet burgers and more, made with local ingredients. There are a few locations on Vancouver Island with two being in downtown Victoria and the Westwood areas.
For classic Pacific Northwest fare and classic Jazz, check out Herman’s Jazz Club in the downtown area for a great night out. (Note: Reservations for dinner and shows are recommended.)
Hoping to catch the lights turning on…
There they go!
On the way back to the car, we timed it perfectly and were able to catch the Clan torchlight parade in front of the Parliament building. The lights popped on and the bagpipes began to play. It truly was a lovely way to end the day. The weather was sublime and the sunset over the Inner Harbour in addition to the music was absolutely enchanting. We all agreed it was a pretty fitting end to our first visit to the Victoria Highland Games and definitely plan on returning for future games.
Beautiful sunset at the Inner Harbour
All the lights are turning on near the Inner Harbour
Dusk at the Inner Harbour
As we’d gotten back to the Airbnb at a fairly reasonable hour the night before, we were feeling relatively refreshed the next morning. We packed up all our things at the Airbnb and resigned ourselves to enjoy one last morning in Victoria. The weather was great and the skies clear; it was going to be a beautiful trip home on the ferry.
But first, we wanted to get in one last jaunt around downtown Victoria. I’d been wanting to locate Mile 0, the genesis of the iconic, near 5000-mile Trans-Canada Highway, so off we went in search of it. (It spans the entire length of Canada!) Located on the hills just past downtown and the Inner Harbour, it’s well worth a visit and the views looking out over the water are beautiful. There are also great trails leading down to the shore and a nice park where you can pull up some grass and enjoy a picnic. (But maybe don’t actually pull up any grass…)
The beginning of the epic Trans-Canada Highway
Plaque commemorating the area from 1958
Plaque celebrating Stephen Fonyo, who ran the entire Trans-Canada Highway for the Canadian Cancer Society
Beautiful views of the beach from Mile 0
Watching the Victoria Clipper sail towards the Inner Harbour
After checking out the highway majesty of Mile-0, we hit up the funky and very delicious, Frankie’s Modern Diner near the Inner Harbour for breakfast. While enjoying our meals, we contemplated what we could possibly fit into the few hours we had left. Since we’d missed seeing the Saturday farmers market, we all agreed the Bastion Square Sunday Market sounded like a great idea.
I don’t know how I feel about a breakfast cheesecake pizza, but I might give it a whirl…
Hanging out at Frankie’s
Delicious breakfast at Frankie’s
Chicken and waffles!
Kristen got her egg white omelette
Turns out it was indeed a good idea and we much enjoyed the artisan scene of the market. Set along the walkways of Bastion Square in downtown Victoria, the market features all sorts of wonderful local arts and crafts. Each of us found several great items and chatted with a few of the artists. It was a great way to bid adieu to the city and all of its artful charms.
A great morning at Bastion Square Sunday Market
Vendors lining the walkways of Bastion Square
So many great artists to check out!
Right across from Irish Times!
I picked up this beautiful piece by local artist, Big Bear and the Wolf
Since we needed to get in line for the ferry at 1pm, it was time to head back towards the car. Along the way, however, we made a stop at one of Victoria’s most famous shops, Murchie’s Tea. (Murchie’s founder and Scotsman, John Murchie, learned his trade by delivering tea to Queen Victoria while she was in residence at Balmoral Castle and learned to blend the teas she enjoyed.) Since Victoria is known as the “tea capital of Canada”, it goes without saying this shop helped cultivate that title. (It’s been around since 1894) I go there every time I’m in town and always stock up on their delicious tea blends, my favorites being their Black Currant and Scottish Breakfast teas. (Okay, maybe I often pick up a tea cup or two. This trip was no exception.) They also serve a lovely afternoon tea and feature a deli and sandwich counter I’d compare to my beloved Fortnum & Mason in London. (Same goes for their large tea selection!)
Delicious teas!!
Just a small section of Murchie’s tea service offerings
So much to check out!
In addition to the excellent scene at Murchie’s, there are many other spots to enjoy tea in the area. A few more places to celebrate with your “pinkies out”:
If you’re looking for a lovely guest house and delicious high tea, Pendray Inn & Tea House has you covered. Located just up from the Inner Harbour, they are a beautiful place to rest your head and sip your tea.
The Abkhazi Garden &Teahouse serve high tea and light lunch items surrounded by an absolutely beautiful garden setting. Cultivated by the Prince and Princess Abkhazi over the course of 40 years, the house and gardens are a lovely tribute to their story.
Located just outside the downtown area, White Heather Tea Room serves traditional high teas as well as light lunch fare. They get great reviews and are high on my list for future visits.
Located in Chinatown, La Roux Patisserie is also high on my list for my next visit. Serving French pastries, cakes, coffee and tea, they are well known for their delicious treats.
Also in Chinatown, Silk Road Tea features not only delicious teas, but also a skincare line and a day-spa. I am completely on board with spending the afternoon sipping tea and enjoying spa services. Completely.
Serving delicious breakfast, lunch and high tea since 1956, Dutch Bakery does not disappoint. They also offer wonderful looking wedding cakes and delicious pastries.
Venus Sophia Tea Room & Vegetarian Eatery bill themselves as a ‘modern tearoom’ and feature traditional high tea fare with a twist. Located in downtown Victoria, they are nice respite from the hubbub of the city. Reservations are recommended.
Located outside of Victoria, Westholme Tea Company and farm hosts a tea shop, gallery, tours and tearoom. I haven’t visited yet, but it looks like a lovely spot to spend a few peaceful hours. It’s high on my list for my next visit.
Okay. Maybe I picked up a few mugs…
And with that, it was time to board the ferry and return to Washington State. A couple of hours back on the MV Coho and we arrived safely on the shores of home. I love Victoria – and I love Canada. To know I can get a shot of Canadian goodness along with a proper spot of tea just a couple of hours from my home is a wonderful thing, indeed. We do have so much in common with our Canadian neighbors, but it is also nice to celebrate what makes us both unique. I think we have a pretty cool partnership. Until next time, Victoria. Take good care, eh?
I infinitely love you, Victoria! (from the Sunken Garden at Butchart Gardens)
I Ate the State – Special Edition: Victoria B.C. – Click HERE to check out my custom Spotify playlist
~A celebration of Canadian Musicians and Song~
Dance Me to the End of Love – Madeline Peyroux (from Careless Love)
Harvest Moon – Cassandra Wilson (from New Moon Daughter)
Yvette in English – Joni Mitchell (from Turbulent Indigo)
The Dry Cleaner from Des Moines – Joni Mitchell (from Mingus)
Looking for beautiful wildlife habitats, mysterious plains, plentiful outdoor opportunities or perhaps the inner-workings of the state’s legislative process? All of these attractions and more can be found along the highways and byways of scenic Thurston County. Let’s go!
Cherry blossoms on the grounds of the state capitol.
Since Thurston County is host to the state capitol of Olympia, it’s a fairly accessible county to visit. Interstate-5, US-101/US-12 and SR-507 are all great routes into and through the county. That said, as Olympia plays such an important role in the operations of Washington State, it can sometimes be a bit crowded getting around the area. The keys to successful navigation are avoiding typical rush hours and knowing the back ways. However, if you’re specifically heading into Olympia proper, you might end up waiting in a bit of traffic. No one likes a backup, but since the area has so many great things to see and do, sometimes a little extra wait is worth it.
Since I’m coming from the Seattle area, I typically head south on I-5. When I have extra time, my favorite route is to come down from the north via beautiful US-101. The cross-section of the state you get to see on that highway is breathtaking and well worth the detour. However, since I’m typically heading either into Olympia or further south, I-5 is my regular approach. Other than the aforementioned Olympia traffic, I have no issues with this route as it leads directly through the gorgeous lands of the Billy Frank Jr. Nisqually National Wildlife Refuge, located just off the freeway near the city of Lacey.
Angel in the sky at the Nisqually Wildlife Preserve
Taken several months apart in different areas of the state…
For years, I’ve been caught up in the mind-numbing pulse of I-5 traffic. I’ve always made note of how beautiful the areas around Lacey are, but have never really made the effort to investigate. I’ve simply kept up with the flow of traffic and continued on to my destination. But the times, they are a-changin’ and I’m making a concerted effort to stop at all of the roadside attractions and back-road locales I can. Life is just too short to keep to the main roads. And with that in mind, I pulled off of I-5 at Exit 114 and drove towards the most stunning wildlife refuge…
Beautiful boardwalk trail through the preserve
Stunning scenery along the boardwalk path
The Nisqually River Delta – where the Nisqually flows into the Puget Sound
Established in 1974 and located in the Nisqually River Delta, the Nisqually National Wildlife Refuge is an absolutely gorgeous swath of land and habitat types. The freshwater of the Nisqually River and saltwater of Puget Sound combine in this area, resulting in a large variety of plant and animal life. On my recent visit, I saw all manner of birds, including a very majestic Blue Heron as well an amazing microcosm of life in the marshlands. The Visitor Center was unfortunately closed on my visit, but I was still able to hang out on their back observation deck and enjoy the scene. I was there near dusk and the sunset was absolutely peaceful and serene. Sigh… There are several small hikes in the area, but be sure to check out the Twin Barns Loop Trail and its lovely boardwalk. (No dogs allowed.)
Gorgeous landscape with courtesy angel sunset
The visitor center
Beautiful at dusk
After walking along the boardwalk and taking in all the beautiful scenery, I was getting a little hungry. I noticed a few restaurants and shops on the other side of the I-5 exit, so I decided to investigate. As I’m always in the market for an old-school burger, I was happy to come upon the Medicine Creek Café, owned and operated by longtime stewards of the area, the Nisqually Tribe. I’m so glad I stopped in as the burger and accompanying beer were great and they had fried pickles. SCORE! Amazing scenery and a tasty burger, all off of an unassuming highway exit. You just never know what you’re going to find…
Delicious burger and fried pickles!
Nisqually Indian Tribe decor at the cafe
For other tasty food options while in the Lacey area, head to Ricardo’s Steak & Seafood for delicious lobster bisque and a juicy steak or NW chain, Hops-n-Drops if you’d like to keep with the tasty burger theme. If you’re in need of tasty beverages, Lacey has a few great spots to check out:
If you love wowing your friends with unique drink concoctions, head to Salish Sea Organic Liqueurs and check out their expansive selection of small-batch liqueurs. Made with all organic ingredients, they are delicious on their own or in any number of drink combinations. Additionally, the staff was incredibly cool and happy to chat all things beverage. I brought home the Honeybush, Rose, Lavender and Hibiscus liqueurs and have been mad-sciencing tasty cocktails ever since. (Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.)
If you’re not driving, consider doing a tasting room crawl at Axis Meads, located in the same complex as Salish Sea Organic Liqueurs. They specialize in handcrafted honey meads made with delicious herbs and spices. Try the lavender mead! (Open Fridays and Saturdays)
Directly next door to Salish Sea Organic Liqueurs, you’ll find the Stottle Winery tasting room. Featuring delicious wines produced from Washington grapes, they can also be found in Hoodsport, in lovely Mason County. Try their Tempranillo! (Closed Mondays and Tuesdays)
Just a little further south in Lacey, you’ll find Top Rung Brewing. Owned and operated by two local firemen, they offer small-batch craft brews as well as seasonal varieties. Try the Lacey Lager and My Dog Scout Stout! (Tasting room is family and pet friendly. Local food trucks featured. Closed Mondays.)
And just a little further still, you’ll find the Madsen Family Cellars tasting room and winery. A local winery featuring Washington-grown grapes, they have wines to suit a variety of palates. The Beri’s Delight Riesling (named after the owner’s mother) and their 2010 Sangiovese are both lovely. (Closed Mondays and Tuesdays)
Not too far from the Nisqually National Wildlife Reserve, look for the Medicine Creek Winery. Located in an idyllic farm setting in the Nisqually Valley, they feature red wines in their very unique 1800s New Orleans brothel-themed barn. (Which includes a dance floor and stagecoach!) (Saturday – Sunday, Noon – 5pm)
Honeybush, Hibiscus and Rose liqueurs – SO delicious!
Many varieties and good amount of awards!
A relaxed tasting room at Salish Sea Liqueurs
Lacey sometimes gets outshined by the glow of its big-time neighbor, Olympia. However, there are many beautiful areas to visit before dipping your toe in the excitement of the state capitol. A few places to enjoy before you head up the Capitol steps:
There are five freshwater lakes in Lacey proper and Long Lake Park is a great one to check out. They have a large beach area with swimming and beach volleyball and the park is adjacent to a large, forested area with walking trails.
Located directly on Puget Sound, Tolmie State Park offers beautiful forested hikes, salt-water fishing, clamming and crabbing opportunities as well as a serene getaway from the hectic pace of nearby city life. (Discover Pass required)
Head to the Lacey Museum to learn about the town, culture and life of local residents from the 1800s and into the present day. And don’t miss their Sasquatch Revealed exhibit taking place from May 31st until September 29th! (Wednesday – Saturday, 10am – 4pm)
So lush!
A great shore to take a little stroll
Beautiful walks through the forest and towards the shore
Peaking out onto the Puget Sound
Beautiful plants at Tolmie State Park
Lush, mossy trees everywhere!
I grew up in Washington State and have vivid memories of seeing television ads for Olympia Beer with the ever-present “It’s the water” voice-over. Granted, Olympia Beer was technically produced in neighboring Tumwater, but it will always be synonymous with Olympia for me. (Same goes for Rainier Beer and Mt. Rainier.) Yes, Olympia also happens to be the state capitol and the area boasts a rich history for both Native American and western settlement. These are kind of important points and worthy of exploration and contemplation for any Washingtonian, including myself. That said, after my recent trek through Olympia and Thurston County, it’ll always be about the water, but now so much more…
Olympia Brewing may be closed, but the love lives on. (Taken at Well 80 in downtown Olympia)
You can’t miss Olympia as you’re driving along the I-5 corridor. The freeway cuts directly through the city and the state capitol can easily be seen, rising stately above the downtown area. (The Legislature Building is 287 feet tall and the tallest free-standing masonry dome in the country!) There are so many things to see and do in Olympia, but a fine place to start is indeed at the capitol.
The Washington State Capitol, with its beautifully manicured grounds, is a great place to visit any time of the year. (On the National Register of Historic Places) If you’re there late morning or early afternoon, bone up on your governmental knowledge and take a guided tour of the beautiful Legislative Building – Or enjoy the tour from the comfort of your desktop with their virtual tour. If you’re curious of how the Washington Supreme Court operates, you can view oral arguments in the courtroom of the imposing Temple of Justice building, located directly across from the Legislative Building. (The sessions are also broadcast live on Washington’s Public Affairs Station, TVW.) Legislative Building tours run on the hour from 10am to 3pm during the week and 11am to 3pm on weekends. The Temple of Justice is open on weekdays from 8am to 5pm. It is also possible to tour the oldest building on the capitol grounds, the Governor’s Mansion (c. 1909) on most Wednesdays.
The stately Insurance Building and beautifully manicured Capitol ground
Close up from the steps of the Insurance Building
A beautiful afternoon on the ground of the Capitol
Gorgeous cherry blossoms on the grounds of the Capitol
Beautiful ceiling details from the foyer of the Legislative Building entrance
The majestic Legislative Building
These light fixtures are huge!
Important goings-on behind those impressive doors…
The home of the Washington State Supreme Court
More giant light fixtures!
The Legislative Building is beautiful from all angles
If you happen to be visiting outside of regular business hours, there is still much to see and do. Check out the beautiful campus grounds, which are especially lovely in the spring with a large variety of flowering trees. The campus is also much less crowded after regular hours and you’ll have plenty of time to view the many monuments, memorials and art installations, not to mention the sweeping views of Capitol Lake and the West Bay of Budd Inlet from the majestic Capitol Steps. There is also access to beautiful walking and hiking paths leading down to Capitol Lake and around adjacent Heritage Park.
Gorgeous Magnolias in bloom on the Capitol grounds
Beautiful view of the Olympics and Capitol Lake
Sweeping view from the Capitol grounds of Capitol Lake, Heritage Park and Budd Inlett
Some of the beautiful Camellias bushes blooming on the Capitol campus
Not too far from the Capitol and on the West Bay of Budd Inlet, you’ll find Percival Landing. It’s one of three waterfront parks and conveniently close to the stellar Olympia Farmers Market. (Thurs – Sun, 10am – 3pm – April to Oct) The market and its surrounding areas are a goldmine of great shops, restaurants, waterfront access and an overall excellent way to spend a day. A permanent structure housing bakers, farmers, artists, butchers and more makes even rainy-day shopping fun and it’s hard to walk away without a big bag of goodies. They also have a covered stage with regular live music, several food vendors with outdoor seating and a very lovely manicured garden. Some of the spots I enjoyed on my recent visit:
There are several great food vendors to try, but since Dingey’s Puget Sound Cuisine had homemade crab cakes on the menu, how could I say no? Since I knew I’d be sampling more cuisine that day, I ordered the small plate and as soon as I dug in, I regretted not getting the bigger one. Next visit!
Delicious crab cakes at Dingey’s Puget Sound Cuisine
Grab a brat AND some crab cakes!
The jerky at Stewart’s Meats was fabulous and the cuts of meat in their butcher case looked very tasty. Next time I’ll be bringing home some steaks as well as more of their maple beef jerky (Located inside the Market and at their main location in nearby Yelm)
Delicious meats to be found at Stewarts!
Stewarts Maple Jerky is DELICIOUS!
The cheddar and chive cheese curds at TUNaWERTH Creamery were delicious. Next time I plan on bringing home some of their fresh cottage cheese. Mini cheese curds!
Directly across from the market, hit up the Dancing Goat Coffee Bar (also in Lacey) for a great cup of locally roasted coffee. Their flagship coffeehouse, the Batdorf & Bronson Coffeehouse is located in nearby downtown Olympia and well worth seeking out and if you consider yourself a coffee aficionado, head to the nearby Batdorf & Bronson Tasting Room to sample coffees from growing regions around the globe. (Located a couple blocks from the Farmers Market)
Let it be stated for the record that I have a weakness for macarons. If you suffer the same affliction, stop in at Macarons by Mel, located across from the Market and enjoy macaron greatness.
Achieve Macaron greatness at Macarons By Mel!
Located a few blocks down from the market, Olympia Seafood Co. sells the freshest of fresh seafood out of their warehouse shop. The list of fish they carry is impressive and their clam chowder and smoked salmon spread are absolutely delicious. I’m pretty sure I’d put that spread on anything!
Great tunes at the Market!
Stay out of the rain and enjoy the excellent market goods!
So many things to check out, sample and take home from the market!
Beautiful gardens next to the food vendor area
I spy a farmers market across the way…
Dancing Goat Espresso across from the market
If you’re interested in checking out the farmers in their home setting, these farms are all located in close proximity of the Olympia area and offer a fun day of exploring:
The Johnson Berry Farm Stand sells their delicious wares online and at the Olympia Farmers Market, but you can stop by their farm stand and enjoy the freshest of the fresh berries when in season. (Check website for hours and dates) They can also be found at Seattle’s Pike Place Market, the Puyallup Farmers Market and the Ballard Farmers Market.
Evergreen Valley Lavender Farm is open during the harvest season from mid-June through mid-August. (Check website for hours and dates) They offer many products in the gift shop featuring their lavender and are a very fragrant stop to make on a warm summer day.
Three artesian wells on the property feed the creek for which Ashley Creek Farm is named. Specializing in garlic, squash, pumpkins, corn, flowers and more, the farm is a great place to visit any time of year. Their store is open every day from 9am to 6pm, year-round and they regularly have events to suit the season.
The Schilter Family Farm features a fall festival with corn mazes and pumpkin patches as well as a Christmas tree farm beginning in late November. They’re located off of Exit 114, on the other side of I-5 and the Nisqually National Wildlife Refuge in Lacey.
Delicious produce to be found at the market!
Olympia has no shortage of great restaurants and several of them are very close to the Farmers Market. If you’d like to enjoy a delicious meal and possibly a great view of the water, these fine options are within walking distance – or a very quick drive – of the market:
Classic Olympia dining spot, Budd Bay Café overlooks the West Bay of Budd Inlet and sits next to the historic Fiddlehead Marina. (Note to self: They do have limited live-aboard slips available…) The seafood is delicious and watching the sailboats and my future yacht tool around the bay is an excellent way to pass the time. After your meal, take a stroll over to Percival Landing and check out the 100-year old Sand Man Tugboat and floating museum. (Open to the public and free to visit – On the National Register of Historic Places.)
Fiddlehead Marina with a view of the Capitol
Fiddlehead Marina has been a fixture in Olympia for quite a while!
Budd Bay Cafe – right on the water!
This Crab & Shrimp Louie salad was fresh and delicious!
Fresh chowder with sherry, homemade sourdough roll and a great glass of wine… Yes, please.
A beautiful view of Budd Inlet and Fiddlehead Marina
Outdoor dining!
The Dockside Bistro & Wine Bar features locally sourced ingredients in a delicious fusion of European and Southeast Asian styles. The wine selection is great and they also feature a full bar with craft cocktails. Open for lunch and dinner.
A local Olympia favorite since 1924 and recently revamped, the Olympia Oyster House serves up several varieties and preparations of delicious, local oysters and shellfish. Try any of the baked oyster dishes! Located near Percival Landing and the Sand Man Tugboat. Open for lunch and dinner and featuring great outdoor seating.
If you’re looking to keep it casual, stop by the Oly Taproom for a great local brew and a view of the bay from their outdoor seating area. They also offer a limited pizza menu.
NW favorite, Anthony’s Homeport is just across from the market on Budd Inlet with views of the marina and the Port Plaza (Port Plaza has a public dock and offers short term moorage) After a delicious meal of perhaps pan-fried oysters or Dungeness crab cakes, be sure to climb the steps of the viewing tower located near the docks. The view is wonderful!
Ferry repairs down on the docks – Near Anthony’s Homeport
Tiny sailboats out of the Fiddlehead Marina area
Check out the sights from the Viewing Tower by Anthony’s Homeport
The historic, downtown core of Olympia is a great place to visit, filled with funky shops, clubs, restaurants, murals, artesian wells and more. (The historic downtown area is on the National Register of Historic Places) It’s an incredibly eclectic mix of history and commerce and is a must for experiencing the full flavor of the area. Here’s a small handful of the many cool spots in the downtown area:
Olympia’s oldest brewpub (since 1993), the Fish Tale Brewpub is an excellent place to visit for pub fare and tasty brews from nearby Fish Brewing Company. (Or cider from their sister cider-brewing company, Spire Mountain.) Featuring great burgers, pub favorites like shepherd’s pie and delicious local seafood, they’re a perfect stop along your downtown tour. They also have a taproom in the Woodinville area.
Drink a tasty brew, sit outside and enjoy the sun…
Housed inside the historic 222 Market on Capitol Way North are a very cool collection of shops and restaurants. Hit up the Chelsea Farms Oyster Bar for all variety of oysters along with fresh chowder, shrimp and grits, craft cocktails and more – And then head directly across the hall and sample the excellent offerings from local distillery, Shoebox Spirits. (While there, I picked up a delicious bloody Mary mix from The Real Dill to go with their excellent, Single Malt Vodka. The staff is also fabulous! HOTUPDATE: I stopped by the other day and they’re moving the entire operation to Tumwater! Stay tuned to their Facebook Page for updates.) For dessert, consider a homemade scoop from Sofie’s Scoops Gelateria, located just around the hallway. And a must-try for any visit to the 222 Market are any of the offerings from French-style bakery and café, The Bread Peddler. Also part of the Bread Peddler family and located in 222 Market is the Peddler Bistro. (Check Bread Peddler website as hours/days vary for each spot)
Delicious treats to be had at the 222 Market
Try some homemade gelato at Sofie’s Scoops Gelateria
Several tasty beverage options at Shoebox Spirits
The goods at the Bread Peddler are delicious!
Stop in for fresh oysters at Chelsea Farms
Their Single Malt Vodka is fantastic!
The appropriately named Well 80 Artesian Brewing sits atop one of Olympia’s famous artesian wells by the name of… Well 80. Paying homage to the great brewing tradition of the Olympia and Tumwater areas, Well 80 brews craft beers in the tradition of Olympia Beer founder, Leopold Schmidt. So much so, one of their recent small-batch brews goes by the name of ‘Leopold’s #1 Lager’ and follows a recipe from one of Leopold’s recently discovered, handwritten notebooks. (Translated from German!) It was also created in partnership with a former brewmaster from Olympia Beer, Paul Knight. (Brewmaster from 1974 – 1997. That’s a lot of brewing!) Stop in and try this tribute to the origins of now famous, Olympia Beer before it’s gone – and grab one of their delicious burgers (w/tots!) or pizzas to enjoy with it! The lager truly is delicious and won’t be around long as they only produced a relatively small batch. Don’t miss out on tasting a bit of brewing history!
These roasted Brussels sprouts (and tots!) were delicious!!
Whitewood Cider on the left and the excellent Leopold’s #1 Lager on the right. It’s the water!
Tots AND hand dipped chicken bites with pineapple habanero sauce… WOW!
Wide open and comfortable…
It’s the water!
On the topic of artesian wells (and the mysterious Artesians who make the water), the Jefferson Street Well, located near a parking lot just off the Corner of Jefferson Street and 4th Avenue, is an awesome and publicly accessible artesian well. Fill up your water bottle and bask in the pristine freshness of ancient waters bubbling up from deep below the surface. And keep an eye out for Artesians…
The public artesian well on Jefferson and 4th – It’s the FREE water!
My friend Emily doesn’t need a silly bottle…
24/7 – Delicious, cool and free!
If all that looking for Artesians has made you hungry – and thirsty – there are many more places in the downtown area to check out:
The McMenamins Spar Café is another beer-brewing establishment making great use of an onsite artesian well. (Well water estimated to be about 3,300 years old, according to hydrology studies) The Spar Café is a long time fixture of the downtown Olympia area and is now owned by the northwest McMenamin family. They specialize in restoring and renovating beloved NW sites into restaurants and cool inns. The Spar Café is no exception and is a great place to stop for a meal and an artesian brew. Located on 4th Avenue in downtown Olympia.
Three Magnets Brewing Co. is a great local brewpub with a creative menu including scratch pimento cheese dip, pork belly sliders, lamb burgers and more. Located about a block behind Fish Tale Brewing on Franklin Street.
Over a few blocks from downtown and overlooking the lovely Capitol Lake, Swing Wine Bar serves small plates and full dinners along with a nice selection of wines, cocktails and local beers. (Closed Sundays)
Serving diner-style delicacies to Olympians for generations, King Solomon’s Reef offers delicious food, kitsch and cocktails from their “Breakfast in the front, party in the back!” location on 4th Avenue in downtown Olympia.
Just down from King Solomon’s Reef is the Octapas Café, serving inventive, small-plate tapas dishes, house specialties, tasty beverages and regular live music.
Rush in Alaskan Dumplings was closed on my recent visit, but I’ll be back. If there’s any type of dumpling involved, I need to try it. It’s just a part of my foodie makeup. Furthermore, they serve my favorite type of dumplings, pelmeni. Oh, I’ll definitely be back…
Housed in the beautiful old Security Building (c. 1927) in downtown Olympia, Dillinger’s Cocktails & Kitchen is an excellent night out. Serving old school cocktails as well as new creations, this is definitely the cool place to imbibe in Olympia. Their food menu echoes the ‘old-school meets new’ vibe and features locally sourced ingredients – and they feature a Sunday evening special prix-fixe meal for $35. You can even hold a private party in the bank’s old vault! Live music on Monday nights.
If you’re looking for a cool club with regular great music, head to Rhythm and Rye in the downtown corridor and stay out late! Come on – all the cool kids are doin’ it… If a little ivory tickling is more your fancy, stop in at Tipsy Piano Bar and enjoy a few Jazz and Pop standards along with dinner and cocktails. Brunch on the weekends.
Tapas and more at the Octapas Cafe in downtown Olympia.
Stop in for a great cup of coffee at Batdorf & Bronson’s downtown location
The classic Spar Cafe in downtown Olympia
PELMENI!
Stop in for an old-school cocktail at Dillinger’s Cocktails & Kitchen
I think the sign says it all…
There’s a lot to learn during a trip to downtown or to the Capitol and the Bigalow House Museum can help further your education. Said to be the oldest residence in Olympia (c. 1850s and occupied by generations of the Bigalow family up until 2005), it’s open for tours and is an excellent peek into the lives of one of Olympia’s most influential families. Check out the Olympia Historical Society Events page for tour info.
While there are many fabulous dining and drinking establishments in Olympia, there are also many excellent shops, outdoor activities and cool locales to explore. A handy counterpart to any celebratory pounds one might gain during their Olympia gorge-fest culinary explorations… In addition to the beautiful strolls around the capitol and its surrounds, take a stroll around downtown and take in the scene.
A very cool mural off of Jefferson Street in downtown Olympia
Perking up the parking lots on Capitol Way North
One of the very cool downtown Olympia murals
Check out the cool murals of downtown!
Rebecca Howard mural on the 222 Market in downtown Olympia
The SS TJ Potter mural celebrates the famous turn-of-last-century NW steamboat
There are so many excellent local shopping opportunities in the core of downtown Olympia. Hot Toddy features quirky, vintage-inspired clothing and accessories as well as a few pairs of shoes I know I need… The dangerously cool, modern Compass Rose is a lovely gift shop with at least 372 items I really needed. Last Word, a great independent book store with friendly staff and books stuffed into every corner and piled to the ceiling, is somewhere I could get happily lost for hours. Serving Olympia for the past 80 years, Browsers Bookshop is another gem of independent book-selling, set in a beautiful old building with a wrap-around upper floor. The Mouse Trap features delicious cheese and wines and is located next door to Dillinger’s Cocktails. Peacock Vintage on 4th Avenue carries both quirky and elegant antiques – and a very cool collection of owl kitsch. My friend, Emily picked up a very cool vintage map of Chicago on our recent visit. The Archibald Sisters gift shop is an excellent spot to stop if you’re in need of any number of hilarious gifts, funky socks, greeting cards and much more.
The iconic Browsers Bookshop in downtown Olympia
SO many cool things at Compass Rose in downtown Olympia
Excellent gifts to be found at Compass Rose
A very cool and funky boutique in downtown Olympia
Funky displays at Hot Toddy
I could’ve stayed for hours…
Stuffed to the ceiling!
I’m going to need to return for that groovy hanging light fixture…
The Chehalis Western Trail is an easy-going, 22-mile (round trip) trail running from Olympia and into rural Thurston County areas. It’s easy to pop on and off, but a good entrance is on 14th Avenue SE, near Chambers Lake in SE Olympia.
Columbus Park at Black Lake offers great camping, swimming, fishing and boating opportunities in West Olympia. An oasis in the city, the park has been operating since 1926 and is a very popular site for year-round recreation.
If you’d like to upgrade from the tent or camper, check out the lovely Swantown Inn & Spa located in a quiet neighborhood in SE Olympia. Built in 1887 and on city and state historical registers, it offers bed and breakfast along with several day spa services. #Dreamy
It is no secret that I love boats. It’s an even lesser guarded secret that I want to own a boat… In the meantime, I’m considering living out my nautical fantasies on one of the Mystic Journeys Sailboat Charter I’m presently eyeing the “Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival Cruise” 6-day tour. I’m not attracted to the big cruise ship shenanigans, but this is a cruise I could get on board with… literally. Ba-doom-ching! Thank you, thank you, I’ll be here all week! Or at least for a few more paragraphs… Try the artesian beers!
Priest Point Park is a large park in NE Olympia with saltwater shoreline at Ellis Cove, several miles of hiking trails and day-use activities. Long a part of the indigenous peoples’ lives, the area was also once a church and a mission in the mid-1800s.
The campus at nearby Evergreen College is just as the name describes: Evergreen. Beautiful trees everywhere, plenty of trails, a private beach and even an organic farm are all features of the campus grounds. Offering customizable Bachelor of Arts and Bachelor of Science degrees, it’s a very unique school with a unique approach to teaching and learning. Even if your studies are behind you, it’s a beautiful place to explore, any time of year.
The beautiful path around Heritage Park near the Capitol
Not a bad view from Heritage Park…
Just southwest of the Olympia core lies the small city of Tumwater. Often considered part of Olympia, it is a fully functioning and very important city, all on its own. Situated where the Deschutes River flows into Budd Inlet, it has long been a pivotal area for trade and commerce for both Native Americans and western settlers.
One of the most important residents of the Tumwater area – and of Washington State altogether – was George Washington Bush. (No relation to the former Bush presidents) Had this man and his family not traveled (and largely funded) an expedition on the Oregon Trail from Missouri, Washington might not be the state it is today.
Bush, whose father was of African descent and mother, an Irish-American servant, was one of the first multiracial settlers in the northwest. In 1844, he and the white families he was traveling with – all friends and neighbors from Missouri – had initially planned to settle in Oregon. However, due to racial prejudices barring settlements of African-Americans, they were forced to alter their plans. The families didn’t want to separate so Bush and Michael Simmons, another incredibly instrumental person in the story of Washington State, moved the entire party and eventually settled in the Puget Sound area, near Deschutes Falls in 1845.
Along the way to the Olympia area, they also spent time north of the Columbia River in what is now Clark County. South of the river was considered Oregon County and was under joint US and British control. North of the river was controlled by the British-run Hudson’s Bay Company who didn’t discriminate against Bush and his family. The men worked for the Hudson’s Bay Company during this time and it became a valuable connection when navigating the tough times to come.
Bush and his family had settled further up the Deschutes River in prairie land they named Bush Prairie. During their time in the area, he and his wife, Isabella, were instrumental in helping their neighbors through tough winters and forging relationships between the Nisqually Tribe and the Hudson’s Bay Company. They also offered free lodging to travelers and immigrants coming through the area and regularly gave away free grain and food to neighbors. Through their relationship with the Nisqually tribe and Chief Leschi, they learned the Nisqually language and the Nisqually taught them about local plants, seafood and more. These relationships and their generosity to friends and local residents were key in the community growing and beginning to thrive; key to the community gaining the strength to grow into a state. Had Bush and his family not given so freely, we very well might not have the Washington State we enjoy today.
After the 1846 Oregon Treaty brought the Washington Territory into Oregon, there was worry that Bush and his family would be unable to keep their land due to Oregon’s discriminatory laws. However, after the Washington Territory was separated from Oregon in 1853, the many people Bush had helped through the years, some of whom had become very influential, helped to get an exception via Congress to ensure his family would retain the Bush Prairie land and property. Unfortunately, the fight wasn’t over and early Washington State leaders wanted to ban non-whites from the area. It was then that Bush’s longtime friend and supporter, Michael Simmons, led a strong opposition and ensured the state did not adopt the exclusionary laws.
George Bush and his wife, Isabella are now buried in Tumwater at the Bush/Union/Pioneer/Calvary Cemetery. The cemetery is on the National Register of Historic Places and is a fine place to pay tribute to Bush and all of the Washingtonians who made this state into the wonderful place it is today.
Leopold Schmidt had this placed in tribute of the first settlers in Tumwater
Tribute to Michael Simmons, George Bush, James McAllister, Gabriel Jones and their families – All first settlers in the Tumwater area.
The many artesian wells in the greater Olympia and Tumwater areas have long supplied water to local residents. As previously described, they’re still providing water – and in turn, delicious beer – to the area. Beer was first brewed in Tumwater in 1896 at the Olympia Brewing Company, founded by Leopold Schmidt. (Originally named ‘Capital Brewing Company’) The brewery is said to have drawn their famous waters from a series of 26 artesian wells located below the brewery. That’s a lot of water! Sadly, the brewery closed in 2003, but you can still visit adjacent Tumwater Falls Park and beautiful Deschutes River. From this location, you can see not only the Old Brewhouse, but are able to stand front and center before the epic Tumwater falls as they cascade into the river. Cheers to those Artesians! (Click HERE for a great video tour of the Old Brewhouse and interview with the last Olympia Brewery brewmaster, Paul Knight.)
Tumwater Falls and the Deschutes River
The falls break off into a few different sections
Meandering down to Puget Sound
A couple of different ways to cross the river
Just after the falls
After enjoying the beautiful falls and taking in the scene, be sure to check out the park. Walk through the well-manicured native plants garden and stroll alongside the Deschutes River on the beautiful riverside path. Also be sure to locate the Leopold Schmidt monument which pays tribute to Tumwater and Olympia’s first western settlers, including the remarkable, George Washington Bush. To further your knowledge of Tumwater’s history, make a visit to the nearby Schmidt House and check out the Schmidt House tour. (On the National Register of Historic Places)
A beautiful and serene walk along the Deschutes River
A little bit of construction going on at the park, but it’s still about the water!
Lovely native plants and flowers in the park garden
Tart Cider and tasting room features delicious hard cider varieties made from Washington State apples and fruit juices. Kid and dog friendly. Open Thursday – Sunday. Check website for hours.
Matchless Brewing is a very cool taproom and brewery featuring rotating taps and all things hoppy. Kid and dog friendly with food trucks providing sustenance. (Open Wednesday – Sunday, with a 7pm curfew for kids)
Add to your Warehouse District taproom crawl and stop by Triceratops Brewing Company and enjoy their Pennsyltucky Lagers or Sammy IPA. (Closed Monday – Wednesday)
Located across from the airport, Spuds Produce features local gourmet and specialty wares along with fresh produce, an excellent craft beer section, meats and cheeses. On my last visit, I picked up some excellent smoked albacore tuna from Tumwater’s Briney Sea Delicaseas. Yum! (Check out the original Spuds Produce location in Olympia, too!)
Many cool places to visit in the Deschutes Landing Warehouse District
Many great treats to check out at Spuds Produce in the Warehouse District
Check out Spud’s Market in the Warehouse District!
Delicious beers to be enjoyed at the Matchless Brewing tasting room in the Warehouse District
To investigate one of the state’s more mysterious features, head south on I-5 towards the Capitol State Forest and the ever-intriguing, grassy prairie lands of the Mima Mounds Natural Area Preserve. (A National Natural Landmark, along with the nearby Nisqually River Delta.) Off of I-5, take Exit 95 and turn west onto SR-121. (Maytown Road SW) toward Littlerock. After a lovely meander through the back-roads, you’ll arrive at a landscape that has long puzzled scientists and amazed visitors.
Many theories as to the nature of the mounds have been entertained for generations. Burial mounds, earthquakes, flood sediments, pocket gophers excavating nest chambers and the most popular theory, glacial melt-water causing erosion between the trees and shrubs, have all been explored. What scientists do know is the mounds were somehow formed when ice-age glaciers began receding 16,500 years ago. At any rate, they’re fascinating and just a little bit eerie to take in as you look out over the prairie.
Visiting the Mima Mounds is quite an experience. Trails wind in and around the mounds and there are observations decks which allow you to look out over the landscape and marvel at the formations. The area is open from 8:30 to 5:30pm, October to March and until 8:30pm from April to September. A Discover Pass is required. (Note: Don’t be alarmed if you hear gunshot when first arriving in the parking area. There is an outdoor gun range on the opposite side of the mounds. It’s a good distance away and they’re shooting in the opposite direction, but there can be a bit of an echo. Head to the left after entering the prairie area and you’ll get mostly out of earshot.)
Behold, the mysterious Mima Mounds!
Follow the winding path through the Mima Mounds
Beautiful trees in the forest next to the Mima Mounds
Great forest area to explore on the outskirts of the Mima Mounds
Mima Mounds – National Natural Landmark
Nurse trees in the forest near the Mima Mounds
If you’re looking to make a longer trip of your Mima Mound investigations, a great place to camp and further investigate the area is nearby Millersylvania State Park. Largely built by the CCCs in the 1930’s, it’s a step back in time with its log-constructed kitchen shelters, summertime snack bar and tree-lined shorelines. (On the National Register of Historic Places) There’s a non-motorized boat launch, kayak and canoe rentals, swimming, camping, great hiking paths through the neighboring wetlands – so many things to do! (Discover pass required)
Guest cottage on the lake
A beautiful calm day on the lake
Looks perfect for a swim!
Great old buildings on the park grounds
Snacks and boats for the warm summer days
Trees and picnics!
But beer in other containers is cool? (Obviously not in the parking lot, but in the actual park?) Details…
Lovely boardwalk path through the Millersylvania State Park wetlands
Who knew Radagast the Brown lived in the wetlands at Millersylvania State Park??
If the family isn’t down with the camping plan, check out the Great Wolf Lodge in neighboring Grand Mound. Offering overnight stays as well as limited day-passes, the lodge features an indoor waterpark, an outdoor ropes course, activities for the whole family and many dining and shopping options. And if you’re up for a little geo-cache style adventure, head over to nearby Tenino Grand Mound Road SW (Old Hwy 99) and look for an Oregon Trail marker placed by the Daughters and Sons of the American Revolution in 1916.
Continuing on Old Hwy 99 will bring you to the charming town of Tenino. On the National Register of Historic Places, the downtown core quaintly represents and celebrates the many generations of residents. There is a good variety of commerce and modern convenience, but it effortlessly exists amongst turn of the (last) century buildings and design sense. On my most recent visit, there were both cars and horses parked in the downtown area. Both kinds of horse power! Tenino certainly understands the ‘best of both worlds’ concept.
Both kinds of horse power!
It would be entirely easy to spend the day enjoying the downtown Tenino scene. A few places to consider as you plan your visit:
Start your Tenino tour by getting acquainted with the town’s history at the Tenino Depot Museum. Located at Tenino City Park, the museum is housed in what used to be the local train depot building. (c. 1914) They have great displays representing the town’s history, but they also have a cool virtual tour available online.
The aforementioned Tenino City Park and its very unique Quarry Pool are an absolute must when visiting the area. The park offers camping, hiking and picnicking opportunities, but the coolest feature is the quarry pool. Originally the town’s sandstone quarry in the late 1800s before they struck a spring and it filled up with water, now serves as the community swimming hole. (Pool is open Wednesday – Sunday, noon to 6pm from the end of June through September 1st)
That way to the Tenino Depot Museum!
The Tenino Quarry Pool
Welcome to the Tenino Quarry Pool!
Water terrace at the Quarry Pool
Chunky style quarry rocks near the pool
If you happen to be in Tenino on a summer Saturday, head to the Tenino Farmers Market for all the best of local produce and artisan goods. (Saturdays, May through September, 10am – 3pm – on Olympia Street, near the park)
The Tenino Antique Mall features a very eclectic array of antiques and vintage wear. There was a little bit of everything tucked into the many stalls. There were SO many things I wanted, but I played it cool. However, I could not say no to a screamin’ deal on a vintage clarinet. That one’s for you, Grandpa Smith! And I promise, I will start playing again…
Here’s to my Grandpa Smith!
‘Lots of cool antiques in Tenino
I think I need those lamps. I love lamp.
Everybody loves getting a call from a beagle!
A great day for antique hunting!
I’m guessing all the exploring and swimming in quarry pools might make one hungry – and thirsty. I know it did me! (Disclaimer: I didn’t actually swim in the quarry pool. I was very busy buying vintage clarinets… Next time!) Here are a few excellent spots to help curb your appetite:
Located conveniently next door to a dentist’s office, Aunt Kate’s Chocolates offers a lovely selection of handcrafted chocolates and treats. A section of the shop is also dedicated to tea parties and special tasting events and they carry a nice selection of teas for the occasion. Located on Sussex Avenue in the historic downtown area.
So many options!
I’ll take one (or three) of each!
Enjoy your chocolates with a tea party!
Just in case you eat too many of those chocolates…
Chocolate covered potato chips. DELICIOUS!
Just across the street from Aunt Kate’s, grab a cup of coffee and a cupcake at Western Coffee Company & Café. Serving breakfast and lunch, they offer a great menu of classic comfort food, baked goods and great coffee.
Also serving breakfast and lunch and just down from Western Coffee Co., Sandstone Café serves up great, diner-style fare in a well-loved, old Tenino setting.
Located in the heart of historic downtown Tenino on Sussex Avenue, Scatter Creek Winery & Brewery offers wine and craft beer in a beautiful, sandstone-walled tasting room. I was in a wine sort of mood the day I visited, but the list of brews was intriguing. Beer will be on my agenda for the next Tenino visit! I did, however, enjoy a great wine-tasting and chat with the very friendly owners. I happily took home bottles of their Valley de Bon Blanco and TheBig Jake (Cabernet) and am looking forward to grabbing more on my next visit.
Lovely tasting room setting at Scatter Creek
A great day for wine tasting…
On your way into Tenino, off of Old Hwy 99 and Tilly Rd SW, stop in at Sandstone Distillery and enjoy a sampling of their handcrafted whiskies, gins and vodkas. (They have a bacon whiskey!) Small-batch distilling in a laid back locale – a great afternoon! They also make Wild Heart sipping vinegars (shrubs) for all of your creative cocktail needs.
Mentioned earlier in the article and found at the Olympia Farmers Market, TUNaWERTH Creamery is located just before you get to Tenino, off of Old Hwy 99 SE and Melville Street SE. Stop in for their delicious cheeses, yogurts and milk. And those delicious garlic and chives cheddar curds…
Stop in for a great cup of coffee!
Working in conjunction with the crew at Well 80
Time stands still in downtown Tenino
The Landmark Tavern in downtown Tenino
Since I was ultimately heading back to the Seattle area, I decided to take Old Hwy 99 back towards Olympia and I-5. Another nice route is to take SR-507 out of Tenino, heading towards Yelm and then SR-510 back to I-5. If you happen to opt for the Old Hwy 99 route, there are a few great places to stop along the way:
Located off Old Hwy 99 on Offut Road SE, non-profit Wolf Haven International is an amazing place to visit. Reservations are required for a guided, 50-min tour of this sanctuary for captive-born and displaced wolves. They have a ‘Wolves and Wine’ fundraising event coming up on September 28th at Saint Martin’s University in Lacey. (Closed Tues – Thurs)
If you’re looking for local fishing opportunities, Offutt Lake, located just up the road from Wolf Haven International has a good trout population. And if you don’t happen to catch your dinner, stop in at the nearby Lady of the Lake Public House for some fish and chips, the easy way. The pub is part of the Offut Lake Resort, which offers camping and lodging on the lake.
Beautiful farmland along the drive to Yelm
Should you decide upon the Yelm route, via SR-507, enjoy the scenic pastures and stunning views of Mt. Rainier as you head northwest. Once you arrive in Yelm, there are several great options for food, drink and more in this tiny yet influential town.
If you’re looking for tasty BBQ, along with delicious breakfast, burgers and more, stop in at The Cattleman and fill up. I recommend their pulled pork and coleslaw. I can’t remember the name of the dish I ordered, but the pulled pork came served on a cornbread base, topped with baked beans and coleslaw – and tots! It was incredibly tasty and very I had plenty left over for lunch the next day!
Located in historic downtown Yelm, the Masonry Café offers tasty soups, sandwiches, baked goods and more as well as local catering services.
Burn off the barbecue on the nearby Yelm-Tenino Trail. Once a local railroad line, it boasts 14.5 miles of great walking and biking trail and intersects w/the Chehalis Western Trail out of Olympia.
If you’re looking for a cool place to stay in Yelm, check out the Prairie Hotel on Prairie Park Lane. Modern rooms with an urban flair. The hotel is right down the street from the comfortable Yelm Cinemas and the funky Uptown Lounge, a 21+ lounge featuring great food, cocktails and live music.
Featuring a parade, street dance, pie baking contest, food vendors and more, the annual Prairie Days Festival is a great way to celebrate the community with the whole family. (End of June at Yelm City Park)
Head to Yelm City Park during the warmer months and visit the Yelm Farmers Market. Check out what the local farmers and artisans have to offer. (Saturdays, 10am – 3pm, May 25th – October 26th)
The Yelm Historical Museum is a fine place to learn about the town’s past as well as that of surrounding areas. After NW explorer, James Longmire settled in the Yelm Prairie area, he set his sights on nearby Mount Rainier. As he carried out his now well-known exploration into the area, Yelm became known as the gateway to Mount Rainier. Learn about this and more of Yelm’s important contributions to the history of the Washington Territory at the museum. (Open noon to 4pm, Wednesday – Saturday, mid-March through mid-November)
Heading out of Yelm, follow Bald Hill Road from the intersection of SR-507 and SR-510 and head to beautiful Deschutes Falls Park. Enjoy the stunning falls and beautiful surroundings of this tucked-away gem of a park.
If you’re feeling lucky as you head back up SR-510 towards the I-5 corridor, stop in at Nisqually Red Wind Casino and try your hand at their slots or table games. Or, play it tasty and simply grab a bite at one of their onsite restaurants or lounges.
The Cattleman BBQ in Yelm
This was seriously delicious. Seriously!
Hangin’ out at The Cattleman in Yelm
Old school Prairie Lanes in downtown historic Yelm
The White Horse Tavern and Masonry Cafe in historic downtown Yelm
Water for Yelm!
And back to Seattle it was time to go… Until next time, Thurston County! It’s a given I’ll make many more trips up and down the I-5 corridor, but knowing how many amazing stops await just off the freeway will add so much more potential to the journeys. I just need to be mindful of avoiding that freeway daze and pay closer attention to the back-roads and byways. Maybe I’ll learn about more of the amazing people who helped shape the state into its present form. Perhaps I’ll come upon a gorgeous waterfall or hiking trail I never knew existed. Maybe I’ll avoid a bit of that crazy traffic through the greater Olympia area… So much potential!
On a broader note, not only are explorations around your home town important, but for anywhere you happen to visit. You never know what could be hiding around the corner, waiting to pop out and expand your understanding of the world around you. Take those exits off the freeway you’ve always wondered about. Stop in at that interesting looking café and order something out of your comfort-food zone. Eat the state! Eat the world!!
Cheers!
Greetings from Washington State Capitol!
I Ate the State: Thurston County – Check out the Spotify playlist HERE
The theme for the day was covers of favorite songs…
If You Love Somebody Set Them Free – Nils Landgren (from 4 Wheel Drive)
Lady Madonna – Nils Landgren (from 4 Wheel Drive)
Right Down the Line – Lucius (from NUDES)
Landslide – Stacey Kent (from Breakfast on the Morning Train)
River Mann – Lizz Wright (from Freedom & Surrender)
Just Like Heaven – Kat Edmonson (from Take to the Sky)
Jesus, Etc. – Puss N Boots (from No Fools, No Fun)
Don’t Think Twice It’s Alright – Chris Thile, Brad Mehldau (from Chris Thile & Brad Mehldau)
Falling in Love Again (feat. Alison Krauss) – John Prine, Alison Krauss (from For Better Or Worse)
Wichita Lineman – Live at RAK – Villagers (from Where Have You Been All My Life?)
Shine on You Crazy Diamond – Christy Moore (from Listen)
Every Little Thing She Does Is Magic – Jacob Collier, Metropole Orkest, Jules Buckley (from Djesse Vol. 1)
God Only Knows – The Langley Schools Music Project (from Innocence and Despair)
Kid A – Punch Brothers (from Who’s Feeling Young Now?)
Send My Love (To Your New Lover) – I’m With Her, Paul Kowert (from Send My Love (To Your New Lover) Live)
Free Fallin’ – Live at the Nokia Theatre, Los Angeles, CA – December 2007 – John Mayer (from Where the Light Is: John Mayer Live in Los Angeles)
The Sound of Silence – Live at Benaroya Hall with the Seattle Symphony, Seattle, WA – November 2010 – Brandi Carlile, Hanseroff Twins (from Brandi Carlile: Live at Benaroya Hall with the Seattle Symphony)
Can’t Let Go – Charlie Hunter, Lucy Woodward (from Can’t Let Go)
What A Wonderful World – Serena Fisseau, Vincent Peirani (from What A Wonderful World)
She’s Leaving Home (feat. Tori Amos) – Miloš Karadaglić (from Blackbird – The Beatles Album)
Wish You Were Here – The Milk Carton Kids (from Wish You Were Here)
New Slang – Alex Guilbert Trio (from On the Ground with the Alex Guilbert Trio)
America – First Aid Kit (from America)
Mandolin Rain – Ricky Skaggs, Bruce Hornsby (from Ricky Skaggs & Bruce Hornsby)
The Fool on the Hill – Sergio Mendes and Brasil ’66 (from The Greatest Hits of Sergio Mendes & Brasil ’66)
Here Comes the Sun – Richie Havens (from Live at the Cellar Door & at the Santa Monica Civic Auditorium)
About a year ago, I visited sunny Puerto Vallarta and it was amazing. The landscapes, the culture, the food – everything was spectacular and I was looking forward to returning someday. I wasn’t planning on returning quite this soon, but when the opportunity arose, who was I to ignore it? My friend had been planning on visiting the area with her sister, but since she was unable to get away, I joined the adventure in her place. Sun-soaked beaches, art-packed streets and delicious margaritas? Bring it on!
~ For a look at last year’s Puerto Vallarta trip – my first ever to Mexico – check out the adventures HERE. ~
Not a bad sight to greet the weary traveler…
Getting an incredibly early start on our day of departure (5:45am!) put us in Puerto Vallarta around 2:30pm. It was perfect as it allowed for a solid amount of time to check into our condo and take care of the necessary “errands” for the week. (i.e. Purchasing tequila, snacks, ice, coffee, etc. You know – The necessities.) That said, getting to the airport in time for a 5:45am flight wasn’t conducive to any sort of worthwhile, preparatory rest. I was fighting off yet another cold (still lingering from my recent Scottish holiday adventures) and my two hours of sleep didn’t really cut the mustard. To say I arrived in Puerto Vallarta a little out of sorts was an understatement.
The customary Bloody Mary Kick-off!
Lack of sleep is detrimental to many things; cognitive skills and memory being two such items. These abilities are required for activities such as filling out important immigration forms, carrying on intelligible conversations with foreign officials and remembering ATM pin numbers. Luckily, I was able to successfully navigate the first two obstacles, lack of sleep be damned. The swift recollection of my ATM pin, however, was an entirely different and sad matter…
As was the case with our last adventure, we waited to procure our Mexican pesos until arrival in Puerto Vallarta. While waiting in line to use the ATM, patting myself on the back for appearing mostly composed while entering the country, a thought suddenly struck; like a bolt of lightning, in fact. OMG – WHAT IS MY PIN NUMBER??
For the record, I have never forgotten my pin number. Additionally, I know my debit card and several credit card numbers by heart. The card I’d planned on using was the one I use every day – with my pin number. EVERY. DAY. Yet, as I stood there, mind blank and fuzzy, I couldn’t be exactly sure of the precise collection of pin numbers or their order. I totally panicked.
Still panicking, it was my turn at the ATM. I approached, palms sweating (which could’ve just been the crazy, afternoon heat) and pulled out my debit card. My mind was racing with possible number combinations and my hand was attempting to auto-recall the pattern on the number pad. While I was fairly certain I remembered the numbers, I couldn’t be entirely sure. To quote Pee-Wee Herman in Pee-Wee’s Big Adventure, “The mind plays tricks on you – You play tricks back…”
After two failed attempts, I stepped away from the ATM. I knew I only had a limited number of tries before the bank blocked my card, so I thought I’d let things settle for a while. Perhaps a bit of rest, reflection and beach gazing would do the trick. Thankfully, my friend knew I was good for it and since she had apparently remembered her pin number, we were able to pay for the taxi to our condo. We were both convinced I’d be able to sort this out later in the afternoon and off to enjoy the day we went.
I could get used to this…
Beautiful flowers on the deck with the Los Muertos Pier in the background
After a fairly short cab ride to our condo, La Palapa, in the heart of Old Town Puerto Vallarta (aka: the Romantic Zone), we checked in and surveyed the scene. Last year, we stayed a little closer to the main part of the Malecon, but this time we were more in the center of the Old Town and directly on the expansive Los Muertos Beach. I loved where we stayed last year and would probably choose it for my next stay, but being directly on the beach and all of its activity was really quite lovely. (In all fairness, last year’s spot was also close to the beach, but you had to walk all the way across a 10-foot wide walkway (the Malecon) to get there. The horror.)
Scene of many margarita mixings…
A lovely rooftop pool
The condo living room – complete with a very firm, concrete-base sofa!
My spacious room overlooking the beach
A very roomy deck to hang out on…
Dolphins playing in the rooftop pool!
After we each claimed our respective rooms in the condo and got the lay of things, we set out to take care of important errands. Since I wasn’t feeling quite up to “adventure mode,” my main plans were to spend time resting and relaxing, living out my foodie dreams and maybe getting in a bit of writing. I’d been envisioning myself, ala Hemingway, enjoying the tranquil grace of the Old Town and soaking up the Arts scene. Throw in a spa treatment or two, some good tequila and a few beautiful sunsets and my time in Puerto Vallarta would be perfect. (All of which gloriously transpired.)
Procuring the essentials is of the utmost importance for a well-enjoyed holiday. A few places to help pave the way towards a relaxing and rejuvenating stay in Puerto Vallarta:
First things, first. Tequila is important. Good tequila is even more important. Don’t get caught in the tourist-trap tequila shops on and around the Malecon. Instead, head to Vinos América where the prices and selection are much better – and there’s air-conditioning! We visited the location in the Old Town area. A few times… We also found a pre-mixed tamarind margarita mix which was fantastic! I’ve always loved the flavor of tamarind, but had never tried it in a margarita. I’ve been unable to find it at home, but will be buying some tamarind concentrate in the near future to try and recreate the magic.
Tamarind margaritas! Just required a quick trip to the store…
Just as good tequila is important, good coffee holds equal status. (In my world, anyway.) There are several coffee shops in the Old Town area, but being able to make a great cup of coffee first thing in the morning is an absolute requirement. Sitting out on the deck, watching the ocean, contemplating life… what a way to start the day. Vallarta Factory not only has delicious food, but they carry a great selection of ground and whole bean coffee, sourced from the local mountains. And if that weren’t enough, the adjacent chocolate shop also carries one of the most delicious creations known to the planet: Caramel-coated, roasted cacao beans. I became hooked on them after my last trip and have been dreaming about them ever since. Suffice to say, I brought back SEVERAL bags…
Many delicious chocolates to enjoy!
So close to my dream…
Cigars aren’t my thing, but they roll them right in the store!
The holy grail. Caramel coated roasted cacao beans… One of the most delicious things EVER created.
The Farmacia Guadalajara in the Old Town is a large drug store and has everything you need in the way of snacks, sundries and more. I’m still excited about my Frida Kahlo Aqua Net score from last year’s trip…
Keeping a bag of ice in the freezer is important for so many hot-weather reasons. OXXO mini-marts are virtually everywhere in Puerto Vallarta and it’s likely one will be located close to wherever you’re staying. Stop by for bagged ice, sodas, chips, ice cream bars and more!
Pedicures are good for what ails the tired, airport-dashing feet and a fine addition to any restful vacation. The staff at the Wow! Facial Bar, just up from our condo, was very accommodating and gave me an excellent pedicure. (They had a very interesting facial masque treatment I might try next time…) I did have to return the next day for a touch-up, buy they very graciously took care of everything. They didn’t even want me to pay for the touch-up!
If you were stuck with someone reclining their seat in front of you for the entire flight, work out your stress at Spa Holistic. Located directly on the beach/Malecon, their staff is excellent and the prices were amazing. You could also go the cheaper route and hit up the roaming foot massage troop working the beach, but an actual spa massage seemed like a better idea to me…
A pretty amazing view from the rooftop
After stocking up on essentials and enjoying a couple of very tasty tamarind margaritas on the deck, it was time to think about dinner. Located downstairs in our condo and directly on the beach was the famous La Palapa restaurant and bar. Built in 1957 and the first restaurant on the beach, La Palapa is still owned by the same family and remains an icon in the Romantic Zone. If you’re looking for fancier dining, directly on the beach, check out the scene at La Palapa. They offer breakfast, lunch and dinner in their dining room or directly on the beach in their private seating area. They also host weddings and events and we watched them set up at least two beach weddings during our stay. Granted, there were only a few nights with sunsets, but the weather cooperated during the ceremonies and no one was rained out. Dreamy.
Dinner service at the private La Palapa beach area
One of the beach weddings we saw during our visit
They had to put up the umbrellas for this one…
Since we weren’t feeling terribly fancy after our long travel day and running of errands, we decided to keep it casual that first night. (And most nights thereafter) Since it was Restaurant Week during our visit, we’d put together a list of potential eateries to investigate. (Note: Restaurant week is always longer than a week and this year ran from May 15th thru June 10th) Many cities feature restaurant weeks, but if you haven’t had the opportunity to participate, they’re a great way to enjoy pricier restaurants for more a reasonable cost. They usually feature a few prix fixe meals which offer a good overview of their full menu. On the list was Joe Jack’s Fish Shack, located a few blocks from our condo. Their menu looked tasty and it was a short walk for weary travelers… Perfect combo! The even bigger bonus was just how tasty the menu was. Everything we tried was delicious. The passion fruit margaritas were amazing and I would eat the Shrimp and Avocado Tostadas Louie every day of my life. Every day! We definitely returned for more during our stay…
The well-appointed bar at Joe Jack’s
A city view from the open-terrace upstairs seating area
Chile dusted veggies – Delicious!
One of the most delicious drinks I’ve ever had – The passion fruit margarita!
Guacamole… Sigh…
Shrimp & Avocado Shrimp Louie FOR LIFE!
Mmmm… Fish tacos…
‘Lots of cool vintage Mexican movie posters at Joe Jack’s
Lovely dining at Joe Jack’s
Delicious cod fritters
There are so many stellar restaurants to try in Puerto Vallarta. The list is impressive and you’d need a very long stay to make your way through it, but it sure would be a delicious journey. We didn’t visit nearly as many spots as I’d hoped, but we made a noble effort. I guess the eyes of vacation planning are sometimes bigger than the stomach of time…
Here’s a short list of the places we visited and hoped to visit on this adventure. I suppose the good thing about not hitting every spot is having something to look forward to on the next trip! Because there will definitely be another trip…
We visited renowned chef, Thierry Blouet’s Café des Artistes during our stay and it was spectacular. The atmosphere and service were excellent – minus a small banana allergy mix-up – and the food was truly delicious. Their famous Cream of Prawn and Pumpkin soup (ladled from a carved out pumpkin) was fantastic and the ‘Catch of the Day’ was wonderful. (And I am kicking myself for not writing down the fish. It was delicate, white, flaky… Sigh…) And the desserts – Yowsa!
At least one of us wasn’t allergic to bananas…
Delicious lavender macrons
A deconstructed fig and berry cheesecake. WOW!
This fish was amazing! WHY didn’t I write it down??
Their famous cream of pumpkin and prawn soup. Delicious!
Amuse bouche!
Classy dining at Cafe des Artistes
Directly next door to La Palapa, you’ll find Si Senor Beach. Quite handy to have great dining options just downstairs. The regular menu was somewhat pricey, but we opted for the Restaurant Week selections and weren’t disappointed. Interestingly, the margaritas we ordered ending up being the same price as our entire meal! (Pro tip: Don’t worry about getting the fancy tequila unless you’re going to sip it. Mid-shelf tequila for margaritas is absolutely acceptable.)
This tres leches cake was fantastic!
A very expensive, but very tasty margarita…
Delicious tortilla soup with fresh chicharrones
A very delicious shrimp dish
Looking out towards the pier from Si Senor’s dining room
We had a very earnest guest…
Situated on the Cuale River and featuring regular Jazz shows, Le Bistro has been high on my list on both visits – and it remains! They serve breakfast, lunch and dinner and feature fresh seafood along with pasta and pizza on their dinner menu.
Lovely riverside dining at Le Bistro Cafe
Appropriately perched on a cliff overlooking the ocean,Le Kliff features an amazing menu and is one of Puerto Vallarta’s most exclusive dining locales. While we didn’t get to visit on this excursion, my friend has dined there on past visits and speaks very highly of the experience.
Di Vino Dante features local cuisine with Mexican wine pairings. Born and raised in Puerto Vallarta, the owner was studying Fine Art in Vancouver B.C. when she also began studying wine. She returned home to showcase her knowledge and has been featuring Mexican and Latin American wines and cuisine at her intimate wine bar in the Old Town.
Nicksan features the very cool fusion of Mexican and Japanese cuisine. Sashimi tostadas? They’ve got ‘em! Chiles stuffed with spicy crab and sesame sauce? Bring it on!!
Renowned local chef, Joel Ornelas, whose resume includes apprenticeships at Café des Artistes and Le Bistro as well as several well-reviewed European restaurants, puts his own touch on the classics at Tintoque. Their “Creative Menu” features fresh seafood and local produce and changes daily. Located at Vallarta Marina, near the Hotel Zone.
Tucked in along a side street near the Malecon, Florios specializes in a tasty blend of Italian and Argentinian inspired cuisines. Pasta and meat – together forever!
Italian and Argentinian dining at Florios near the Malecon
La Bodeguita del Medio was very crowded when we stopped by, but we stood outside and listened to the live Cuban music and I promised myself to try again next time. The Puerto Vallarta location is an offshoot of the same club Hemingway spent so much time at in Havana. (Which is still there!) Located at the heart of the Malecon.
Barcelona Tapas was on our list as my friend had visited before and raved about it. I love a good tapas. Who doesn’t?? We didn’t make it there together, but I will definitely be stopping in on my next visit.
Jorge’s Hideaway Shrimp Shack is as advertised, most definitely “hidden.” Tucked back into an Old Town neighborhood, you could easily mistake it for a small home. (Which it used to be!) My friend was on a quest for the best coconut shrimp and Jorge’s did not disappoint. Everything we had was fresh and delicious and I’ll definitely return on my next visit.
Delicious coconut shrimp
A homey setting at Jorge’s
Sometimes you just need an ice cold cerveza…
This shrimp dish was SO fresh and tasty!
We were feeling peckish after a hot day of walking around and arrived a little early for dinner hours at The Swedes Bar & Bistro. They were very accommodating, however, and we ended up with the whole place to ourselves for dinner! Featuring local ingredients prepared with a European flare, everything we tried was delicious. The lobster bisque was a standout highlight for me. YUM!
The most delicious lobster bisque
Chicken breast stuffed with provolone, artichoke and sun-dried tomato – with mushroom risotto and a tarragon cream sauce. Yum!
Tucked into a tiny spot in the Old Town, Tacos Revolucion serves delicious tacos of all varieties and absolutely delicious tortas. They also have “Volcanoes” and “Cakes” – both savory dishes – which I will absolutely be trying on my next visit. I also didn’t get to try the “Meat in Your Juice,” which is described as Beef cooked in its juice with bacon, green sauce, scallion, beans from the pot and handmade tortillas. Guadalajara style. WHAT??? #Heavenly
I was pretty much full after the guacamole…
And just a few more places that will remain on my list until next visit:
El Arrayan – Traditional and contemporary Mexican cuisine in the heart of the Malecon scene.
El Dorado – Located directly on the beach in the Old Town/Romantic Zone area, featuring modern Mexican cuisine.
Located at the Grand Miramar resort with a striking, panoramic view of the city, Eugeniafeatures local seafood and produce in an upscale presentation.
Perched high in the hills above the Old Town, Hacienda San Angel Gourmet features elevated Mexican cuisine and an amazing view. It is also high on my list to actually stay in one of the dreamy suites at Hacienda San Angel, once owned by Richard Burton. (Note: Due to kitchen maintenance, there is no dinner service for August and September, 2019)
Meridia Grill features contemporary Mexican cuisine in the heart of traditional Old Town. Duck tacos!
I attempted to visit the trendy La Romantica Churros & Café Bar a couple of times during my visit. It was right around the corner from the condo and featured delicious churros, Mexican hot chocolate and coffee. What more could a girl need? Sadly, on the first attempt, they weren’t opening for another hour and on the second try, they were closed for a two-week vacation! Alas, it just wasn’t in the cards and I’ll have to hit them up next time. If I have to camp out in front, I will…
Sometimes you just need to get fancy…
And not to be forgotten, here are a few favorites from my last Puerto Vallarta visit:
Featuring family recipes, El Mole de Jovita is a must-stop if you’re looking for the rich, addictive flavors of authentic mole. My favorites were the Mole Jovita, pumpkin and green moles. I’ll be back!
Pancho’s Takos is amazing. Serving slow-roasted meats, prepared on flame-licked spits, Pancho’s is a must for any taco lover. And don’t forget to add their spectacular sauces and accompaniments to your meal. (Pro tip: Get there early. The line at Pancho’s gets crazy long in the evening!)
For the record, I still can’t believe I didn’t make it to Mariscos Cisneros on this trip. This place is delicious and I can’t count the number of times I’ve daydreamed of their fish tacos and deep-fried, cheese-stuffed jalapenos. Whhhyyyyy???
In keeping with one of my major vacation objectives, alarm clocks had NO place in my morning and getting up when I felt like getting up was paramount. Enjoying coffee on the deck, watching the day come alive at the Pier at Los Muertos and knowing I had many more days of this was a completely sublime feeling. Most of the mornings during our stay were overcast, but as I make my home in Seattle, what’s a little cloud cover? Good coffee and knowing I have no commitments for the day is more than enough to make me shout a very happy GOOD MORNING to the world. To make things even more enjoyable, my wackylovely friend decided she didn’t want the room with the amazing ocean view – complete with the soothing sound of waves. I guess the waves don’t lull everyone to sleep like they do me… I’ll take that ocean view room – no problem! Add in that I was able to eventually work out the forgotten PIN situation and my vacation mode officially set in. (Granted, it required a few long phone calls to my bank and a bit of logistical finagling, but whatever – cold hard cash was mine to spend! And a hearty thanks to my travel buddy for humoring the situation and helping out…)
Now that I had my PIN sorted out, I could buy that yacht…
I don’t often have the chance to enjoy a leisurely breakfast, but vacation is the perfect time to live out such fantasies. There are so many fabulous breakfast and brunch spots in Puerto Vallarta, it was hard to decide where to start the day. It’s a rough job, but someone’s gotta do it. You’re welcome. A few of the delicious early morning (more like noonish) spots we hit up:
The aforementioned Vallarta Factory was our first stop on the vacation breakfast train. I was excited to return and had vowed to try something new on this visit, but I failed. The menu is great, but the Poblano omelet I had on the last trip was loudly calling my name – and I listened. SO good!
Mmmm… Mimosas…
I got this poblano omelet last time – and I will likely get it next time! SO delicious.
The Pancake House is pretty spectacular and they do indeed serve delicious pancakes and French toast. That said, their Chilaquiles with Verde sauce was out of this world! We came back a couple times during our stay.
The wilds of the Pancake House
Delicious breakfast starters
They’ve got waffles, too!
Eggs Benedict at the Pancake House
Amazing chilaquiles in the dappled sunlight of the Pancake House
Barra Light offers delicious breakfast and lunch dishes featuring organic and locally sourced ingredients – and some pretty great cappuccinos. As they were located just around the corner from our condo, we stopped in quite a few times for both breakfast and lunch.
I *needed* this delicious cappuccino…
I also needed this delicious salmon lox bagel sandwich.. with jalapenos and chipotle creme. NEEDED IT.
Salud Superfood is a standout in the area for organic and vegetarian dishes. We visited on our last trip and the food was excellent. I will be back on my next visit as well!
The Green Eggs and Bacon sandwich is delicious!
Words of wisdom on the walls of Salud Superfood…
Café San Angel was also a feature of my last visit, but as their migas were so delicious, there was no way I was missing a repeat engagement. They didn’t fail to impress and maybe next time I’ll branch out and try something new. Maybe.
Delicious iced coffee. Yes, please!
The room for the ladies….
Migas at last!!
Located a block off the Malecon, the Coexist Bistro was the last stop on our vacation breakfast train and positively delicious – And air-conditioned! Set on the ground floor of the very cool Hotel Rio, the dishes were imaginative and well-prepared. I’ll definitely be hitting them up on my next visit. Also, did I mention they have air-conditioning?? #Luxurious
Modern dining with a pool
This egg dish was sweet and savory all at once and very tasty!
Mimosas and daisies = Lovely!
On my last visit, I was so impressed and inspired by the amazing artwork and music all around the city and vowed to more deeply experience the scene during this stay. Every day, after fortifying ourselves with a delicious breakfast, we wandered around, taking it all in, experiencing the vibrancy of the city. Everywhere we looked were beautifully handcrafted arts and crafts and everywhere we listened, strains of live music. It was a feast for the eyes, ears and soul, to be sure. I can’t imagine the creative spirit ever at a loss for inspiration in this city.
The iconic seahorse statue at the end of the beach
That’s quite a chair! Amazing art up and down the Malecon.
Puerto Vallarta loves their seahorses
There are beautiful murals all around town
Shhhhhh – they can hear you!
Beautiful displays of culture and tradition on the Malecon
Saturday evening concert in the public square
Beautiful mosaics around town
The list of artistic possibilities in Puerto Vallarta is expansive and full of variety. What I’ve experienced thus far is just a small cross-section of what can be found. I look forward to continuing my artistic adventures on future trips. In the meantime, a few of the spots we were able to enjoy on this visit:
My friend introduced me to Enrique on our last visit and I was happy to again visit him at the shop he manages, Muy Guapo. Located in the Old Town, Muy Guapo features unique antiques and quirky, funky art and jewelry from around Mexico. Enrique is also a fantastic artist and occasionally has some of his own work at the shop.
Enrique’s sister, Marisa, is also an artist and regularly displays her paintings at the Cuale Island Flea Market. She features lovely scenes of local life and I was happy to return home with a couple of her miniatures featuring nearby Yelapa. (Marisa’s stall is located in the shade of the Insurgentes Street Bridge pedestrian underpass) Walking along the peaceful Cuale River and winding in and out of the artist stalls and banyan trees is an excellent way to spend the afternoon.
Scenes from Yelapa
Marisa’s artwork in the Cuale Island Flea Market
The artist herself! (Photo credit: P. Pudinski)
My friend was trying to track down a local marionette artist while we were in town, but was sadly unsuccessful. We were, however, able to successfully add to our glassware collections with a stop at Mundo de Cristal in the Old Town. They only had a few pieces left of the pattern I’d brought back on my last trip, but I snatched them up and my collection grows. I can now serve even more tamarind margaritas at my next party!
You can’t bring back glasses without something to put in them! I’m not a monster.
We also returned to spectacular tile and ceramics shop, Mundo de Azulejosin the Old Town. My friend wanted to custom order an address plaque for her home. Since her home is blue, she decided on “La Casa Azul” with lettering appropriately in blue. Unfortunately, after they fired the plaque, the paint looked green. Something on the list for her next visit to Puerto Vallarta, I guess…
On my last visit, I brought back a beautiful hand-blown glass miniature of my bass guitar. On this visit, we again hit up Carlos Rosas with a few more requests. Additionally, due to a freak dusting accident, the neck of my bass broke! (Broken bass necks are actually a bit of a personal curse. Two actual bass necks and now a glass one… Eeesh.) Through our email communications and pictures being sent, Carlos came up with amazing renditions of both mine and my friend’s dogs as well as a new rendition of my bass and the most spectacular Hammond organ piece for my friend, Joe’s birthday. And he very kindly fixed my broken bass, which I’d brought along just in case it was repairable… Now I have a backup! Carlos is no longer located in the Old Town and now sets up shop on Wednesdays near the cruise ship harbor with many of the local artists. (Our friend, Marisa included.) Definitely make the effort to find his booth!
Finley the Beagle, Joe’s Hammond Organ and my Bass – Mi familia!
The real deal and the replica – can’t even tell them apart!
On my last visit, I found a couple of musical notes created in the Huichol tradition. I love them and was hoping to find a couple more, but none of the shops I investigated had them. Luckily, my friend happened upon Colores Magicos in her own shopping excursions and got their email for me. Through a series of emails and a visit to the shop, they graciously arranged for a local artist to make me a couple of notes during my stay. Cool!! I left it up to the artist to come up with the designs and I picked them up on my last day in town. (After the artist raced into town to get them to me before I left!) I love them! If you stop by, ask for Carlos or Olga and tell them the lady with the musical notes sent you – they’re awesome!
Two new notes to add to my song!
I have a weakness for chunky rings and found the most beautiful larimar ring at the Cassandra Shaw gallery in the Old Town. She is also a painter and animal lover and features many of her paintings in the shop. I love the llama!
I love this guy!
My beautiful new ring from Cassandra Shaw
As my friends are aware (especially those who’ve helped me pack to move), I have a nerdy weakness for glassware, mugs, teacups, shot glasses, etc. If you can drink out of it, I probably have one. On a related note, I’m particularly fond of the You Are Here and Been There series from Starbucks. I have several from around the world and now I have one from Puerto Vallarta. Hooray!
My morning joe with scenes from PV!
There is much music to be found around the city. Live music in restaurants and theatres, dance music in the Malecon and Old Town night clubs and scores of roaming musicians around town and on the Malecon. Stop and listen, go inside and enjoy a set – Take in all the amazing sounds the city has to offer. And keep an eye out for seasoned bassists roaming the beach, waiting to play you a tune…
Bass parking only! This is by far one of my favorite shots ever…
I found the owner! Major props to this guy for schlepping that bass around the beach in long sleeves and pants. That’s one hot gig!
You never know what you’re going to find or what amazing piece of art will call to you as you wander the cobblestone streets and artist stalls along the Cuale. Allow plenty of time to investigate the shops and talk to the artists – and be sure to stay hydrated. There’s nothing wrong with soaking in the sun for a couple hours and returning to the comfort of an air-conditioned hotel room to cool off and get rejuvenated. Of course, it’s also a good idea to throw in a couple of margaritas on the deck and maybe a bit of homemade guacamole, pico de gallo and chips… That’s just good sense. And then resume your meandering, refueled and ready to explore!
So many amazing colors in Puerto Vallarta
Not your average shop decor
The banyan trees on Cuale River Island are truly amazing
If these trees could talk… And it seems like they should be able to!
The foot bridge on Cuale Island
Sometimes you just can’t be bothered to take the stairs…
When not wandering aimlessly around town, there are many places to add to your sightseeing list. Stick around Puerto Vallarta proper or hop on a tour bus or water taxi to the outlying areas of the city. There are so many amazing places to see and things to do. A mere week or so isn’t nearly enough, but you’ll have an excellent excuse to come back soon. Perhaps the following year! Some of my favorite places to visit so far:
Last visit, we took a water taxi from the Pier at Los Muertos to visit the neighboring village of Yelapa. We’d planned on making another trip, but as the weather was sometimes a bit grey and misty, we decided against a choppy boat ride. I fell in love with Yelapa and would love to return for a stay in the sleepy coastal burb, but will have to wait until next time. The water taxis also stop at other villages along the way and I plan to investigate those on my next journey as well.
All aboard for Yelapa!
These guys are getting a free ride…
A few of the fishing boats bobbing in the water next to the pier
An integral part of the beach scene for tourists, fishermen and pelicans alike!
On the way to Yelapa, look out for the rocky arches at Los Arcos Marine Park. I’d love to do some snorkeling in the area and get closer to the arches. Next time!
If you’d like to admire the beautiful architecture of Puerto Vallarta’s local parishes, two beautiful examples to seek out while walking around the Malecon are the Parish of Our Lady of Guadalupeand a little further down, the Church of Our Lady of the Refuge. Both hold regular services and are open to visit during the day.
Rising above the Malecon, Our Lady of Guadalupe
The sun breaking through on a beautiful afternoon
Inside the parish
A little further down the Malecon is Our Lady of the Refuge
Along the way to the Saturday Market…
While wandering around the banyan lined banks of the Cuale, we happened upon the Cuale Cultural Center. A beautiful group of buildings with lovely landscaping and scenery, it serves as a center for all manner of Arts workshops and hosts showings and performances. There was nothing going on the day we visited, but I look forward to checking out the scene on future visits. (Note: When we visited the area, it looked like they were still in operation, but their website doesn’t look current. I hope they’re still holding events…)
Tribute to Night of the Iguana on Cuale Island
Mural on Cuale Island
Tribute to director John Huston on Cuale Island
Center for the performing arts on Cuale Island
Homes perched above Cuale Island
Looking out on Puerto Vallarta from La Iguana Bridge
Sculpture found on Cuale Island
The steps of La Iguana Bridge on Cuale Island
Heading down to Cuale Island from the Malecon
The banyans of Cuale Island
There are many outdoor markets selling a variety of food and goods running throughout the year and all around town. As we did last year, one of the first places we hit up was the Mercado Emiliano Zapata produce stand were we bought fresh vegetables, dried hibiscus flowers, hot sauces and more. (Pro tip: Wash all of the produce off as soon as you bring it back to wherever you’re staying. If you don’t, you’re likely to wake up to an army of tiny gnats marching around your counter-tops. Very common, but easily addressed by a thorough washing.)
Tamarind margaritas with fresh pico and guacamole. Made by hand with the ingredients we picked up at the market.
And excellent place to stock up on veggies and more!
Well, I had to get them… They made me laugh every day…
All this for just under $10!!
There are a couple other outdoor markets we attempted to visit, but were sad to learn were closed for the season. The Olas Atlas Farmers Market, also known as the Old Farmers Market is open on Saturdays from November through April and is very worth getting up early to investigate. (9:30am to 2pm)
Since we were unable to visit the Saturday market in the Old Town, we decide to walk over to the Saturday Market. Maybe walking on a sweltering hot day wasn’t the greatest of plans as it ended up being closer to the Hotel Zone and what felt like 327 miles away. At least. That said, it was a very interesting walk through the local neighborhoods and we ended up getting to experience a very local market scene. Clothing, both new and used, tools, produce, baked goods, little taco stands – you name it, it was at the market. However, as interesting as it was to walk through the neighborhoods, it was just as interesting to take an air-conditioned cab ride back to the Old Town. But for the record, I got in A LOT of steps that day on the ol’ Fitbit – and probably sweated out a few pounds on top of it. SCORE!
A true local market – and a long walk from the Old Town!
One of the things we’d been planning on checking out were the local foodie tours and maybe a tequila tour or two. However, since we were both feeling pretty exhausted from all that wandering around town and walking on the beaches… and making deck margaritas… it never really worked out. Oops. That said, I am confident I’ll be returning soon and it gives me more foodie adventures to look forward to in the future. Some of the tours that intrigued me:
Vallarta Eats offers several tours that piqued my interest. Led by local food enthusiasts, each tour lasts a few hours and showcases the best of Puerto Vallarta cuisine. I was most interested in the Untouristed, Tasting Vallarta and Craft Brew & Bites A couple of friends we made on last year’s trip went on the Signature Taco Tour and raved about it. Next time, Puerto Vallarta… Next time.
As previously discussed, good tequila is important. On my last visit, I did the Eden Canopy zip line tour which included a visit to the Tequila Tasting Room and it was amazing. Other than our multiple trips to procure more tequila in town, we didn’t get to venture out to the local farms and tasting rooms like I’d hoped. On my next visit, I plan on taking the Tequila Tasting tour with Puerto Vallarta Tours. Equally intriguing are the Vallarta Tequila Tastings and Rancho Verano Distileria de Tequila tours. So much tequila, so little time…
Deck margs for the sunset…
We only got a couple of these, but this one was spectacular…
There is no one way to visit or enjoy Puerto Vallarta. Lounge on the beach every day and make homemade guacamole and pico de gallo to enjoy with scratch margaritas on your deck. Eat at all the amazing restaurants and imbibe on elaborate craft cocktails. Hit up the night clubs and late-night Malecon scene and dance into the night. Take a water taxi to the tiny inlets outside of the city and enjoy a burro ride around the village. Get daring and go diving – either in the sea or sky! (Well, parasailing anyway…) Write, dream, contemplate the world and what you can do to make it better… There are so many amazing adventures to be experienced in this beautiful city.
Catch your own fish…
Take to the sky!
Whenever I think of Puerto Vallarta, I recall the spectacular sunsets, the leisurely walks on the beach, the charm of watching the nightly dinner service under the lantern-lit beach umbrellas and the absolute come-as-you-are ease of the Old Town. (Unless it’s Café Des Artistes or one of the upscale hotels, where I recommend kicking it up a fancy notch…) In the years to come, I will always keep a bit of Puerto Vallarta warmth and sunshine tucked away to pull out on those grey Seattle days. This city is now a part of my soul and I hope to experience many more beautiful moments within its borders, whether experienced a year from now or ten.
In closing, if you’re thinking of visiting Mexico, I highly recommend checking out this absolutely lovely city. It’s full of beauty, the locals are welcoming, the Arts scene is rich and vibrant – and there are an unbelievable bounty of tastes, sounds and experiences to sample. It’s a paradise on so many levels! Hey, and no one got pooped on by a Magnificent Frigatebird this time, so that was an extra vacation win!
Until next time – Eat the state!
A room with QUITE a view…
A beautiful night…
Almost down…
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I Ate the State SPECIAL EDITION: Puerto Vallarta – The Return! Click HERE to check out the Spotify playlist.
Escape (The Pina Colada Song) – Rupert Holmes (from Partners in Crime)
Steal Away – Robbie Dupree (from Robbie Dupree)
Tequila Sunrise – Eagles (from Desperado)
Batida Diferente – Herbie Mann (from Latin Forever)
A Horse with No Name – America (from America)
Do It Again – Steely Dan (from Can’t Buy A Thrill)
Coconut – Harry Nilsson (from Nilsson Schmilsson)
Mambo Sangria – Caj Tjader (from Too Late Now)
Sicily – Chick Corea (from Friends)
Biggest Part of Me – Ambrosia (from One Eighty)
The Boys of Summer – Don Henley (from Building the Perfect Beast)
Hold the Line – Toto (from Toto)
Love Will Find A Way – Pablo Cruise (from Worlds Away)
Danza de Gardenias – Natalia Lafourcade (from Danza de Gardenias)
Dreamers – Judy Collins (from Dreamers)
Águas de Março – Antônio Carlos Jobim (from Antônio Carlos Jobim: Finest Hour)
Come Sail Away – Styx (from The Grand Illusion)
Still the One – Orleans (from Waking and Dreaming)
Sailing – Christopher Cross (from Christopher Cross)
Corcovado – Quiet Nights of Quiet Stars – Stan Getz, João Gilberto (from Getz/Gilberto)
Drift Away – Dobie Gray (from Dobie Gray – His Very Best)
Babylon Sisters – Steely Dan (from Gaucho)
Samba De Orfeu – Cal Tjader (from Soul Sauce)
Ride Like the Wind – Christopher Cross (from Christopher Cross)
Reelin’ in the Years – Steely Dan (from Can’t Buy A Thrill)
I love flowers. I love them in gardens, in markets and in vases on my table. I love them on a train, I love them in the rain… Their colors, shapes and endless varieties never fail to make me happy. Throw in thousands of acres of flowers along with beautiful shorelines, stunning mountain ranges and fruitful farmlands and I’m never leaving! All of these things – and much more – are what amazing Skagit County brings to this edition of I Ate the State. Let’s go!
Similar to the surrounds of recently covered, Snohomish County, the Skagit County area is generally comprised of two, fairly distinct sides. The coastal area showcases lovely inlets and islands while the mountainous region takes on the North Cascades and Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest. Both join together in cradling the amazing agricultural bounty in the middle section of the county. Skagit County is another one of Washington State’s great microcosms and a fully-stocked vacation destination for the ages. It was an absolute pleasure to explore the area and I was continually amazed by the near limitless diversity packed into its borders.
Celebrating two beauties of the Skagit Valley: Tulips and Daffodils!
As I live in western Washington, getting to Skagit County is relatively easy. Interstate-5 provides a main route through the county with many side routes running parallel. Taking SR-9 up through Arlington to SR-20 or Pioneer Highway from Snohomish County to Conway are both great alternatives – as is SR-530 to SR-20 if you’re coming up from Darrington. In the summer months, it’s a beautiful drive from the eastern side of the state over either SR-20 (North Cascades Scenic Byway – part of the Cascade Loop) or US-2. There are indeed many beautiful options available for your journey into Skagit County.
One thing I try not to take for granted as I zip my way up the main thoroughfare of I-5 are all of the options just off the freeway. Often times I’m single-mindedly heading for a particular destination and don’t pay heed to all of the great places along the way. The I-5 corridor as it heads up to and through Skagit County is certainly no exception – along with the various side routes. A few options to explore as you begin your Skagit County adventure:
As agriculture is the #1 industry in Skagit County, there are an appropriately large variety of farms to visit, with many being located close to the I-5 corridor. The Festival of Family Farms (Oct 5 – 6) is a great way to check out the bounty. Many of the farms also have seasonal stands and barns located just off I-5. If they’re open, don’t be afraid to stop. You never know what variety of amazingly fresh and inexpensive produce you’ll find. (Not to mention fresh cider, honey, etc.) For restaurateurs wanting to take advantage of the expansive boon, the Puget Sound Food Hub Farmers Cooperative is an excellent way to purchase fresh goods directly from the growers.
If you’re like me and have a strange obsession with taking photos of old barns, hit up the Heritage Barn Mobile Tour and Map for a fun, self-guided tour. Skagit County is a gold mine of beautiful old barns, farm equipment and scenery.
Keeping with the agricultural vibe, take Exit 218 off I-5 and stop in at Bertelsen Winery. (You can see it from I-5!) They’re open Wednesdays thru Sundays for tastings and regularly host music and events.
Cool old barns everywhere you look in Skagit County!
Who doesn’t love a big old red barn?
While Skagit County falls only 21st out of 39 counties as ranked by size, it packs quite a punch with its list of things to see and do. Since there was no way I could fit everything I wanted to see into a weekend, I took a few beautiful weekend days to experience the area. I still found it difficult to see everything on my list, but I feel pretty good about the breadth and variety of my adventures. Let’s get things started in the lovely, western section of Skagit County on Fidalgo Island, in the coastal town of Anacortes.
While still allowing time for random ramblings, I took I-5 to get to the Anacortes area in the timeliest manner. It was a beautiful morning and perfect for the beginnings of a road trip. I had my coffee, my Skagit County playlist and was ready to make tracks for Anacortes. Did I get caught up along the way, distracted by shiny, roadside attractions? Of course I did… As I said, don’t be afraid to stop as you just never know what delicious treat you might find – or how much money you’ll win to fund your trip!
Off of I-5, I took Exit 230 and headed west on SR-20. This takes you through the Whitney area and on towards Anacortes. If you head in the opposite direction, you’ll be venturing into the mountainous part of the county and into the North Cascades. (We’ll get there a little later in the article.) It’s also the best exit to take for least crowded treks into the daffodil and tulip fields. Seriously, this little exit off I-5 deserves a medal for all the greatness it heralds.
Almost directly off the exit, as you’re heading west on SR-20, look for Skagit’s Own Fish Market on your left. Don’t miss this place! I’ve driven by it so many times over the years and have always wanted to stop – I’m so sad I waited this long! Not only do they have an amazing fresh seafood selection, along with all the desirable accoutrements, they have an excellent offering of seafood cocktails, seafood sandwiches, fresh chowder and more. I hereby swear to stop by this place every time I’m entering or exiting the area. Crab cocktail and lobster rolls WILL be mine!
Skagit’s Own Fish Market – Yum!
Many delicious treats to be found inside…
Okay, okay – I’ll start with the shrimp cocktail…
So much fresh, delicious seafood!
I’ll take one of everything, please.
Fresh crab and halibut!
Shortly before you enter Anacortes proper, you’ll come upon the Swinomish Casino & Lodge, owned and operated by the Swinomish Tribe. The lodge has beautiful views including the Padilla Bay Reserve, the San Juan Islands and Mount Baker and is a great base from which to explore the area. My first port of call that day was supposed to be Anacortes, but since I’d already altered my timeline by stopping at the fish market, I figured why not check out the casino?
I hadn’t budgeted to lose any money at the casino that day, so I was a bit leery of strolling around the place. However, after rationalizing to myself I was only visiting to do some hard-hitting, journalistic research, I peeled out a twenty dollar bill from my wallet and committed to probably losing said twenty dollars.
The lovely Swinomish Casino & Lodge on Padilla Bay
Come to me, Dayna… Have a seat…
Shiny machines trying to lure me in…
It didn’t occur to me to take a picture after I won, but this was my cash cow! Fifty dollars, please!
As I walked around, the flashy slot-machines were doing their best to lure me in, but it wasn’t until I spotted a row of video poker machines that I felt the pull. It is true, I’m a total sucker for video poker machines and I will stop every time I see one, especially since I rarely see them in casinos these days. That said, I also have a limit and if I meet that limit, I must walk away. And in a related fashion, if I double my original investment, I walk away. I will admit to having learned my lesson over the years…
Imagine my glee (and relief) when after playing for only a few minutes, I scored a straight flush and was up fifty dollars! I got a few good pictures, used the loo, and more than doubled my money – all in less than twenty minutes! And with that, I wisely cashed out my winnings and made a beeline for Sporty Spice. (My trusty KIA Sportage) With that short, unplanned visit, I’d funded much of my trip and accomplished some deeply investigative travel journalism. You just never know what you’re going to find when you make a random road-trip stop. Sure, there was a bit of luck involved and I easily could’ve ended up twenty dollars the poorer, but I didn’t. HA! And down the road to Anacortes I continued, fifty dollars the richer…
I’ll be back Swinomish Casino… Me and my $50!
Also in the vicinity of the Swinomish Casino & Lodge and well worth checking out:
If you’re up for a little light hiking/walking, check out the Padilla Bay shore trail – where the Skagit River meets the Salish Sea. It looks over towards Lummi Island and is a serene way to spend a couple of hours, year-round. Be sure to bring binoculars to get an up-close view of all the birds in the area. (I’ll be covering Lummi Island in my upcoming Whatcom County article – stay tuned!)
Located next to the beautiful Padilla Bay Reserve is Bayview State Park. They have rental cabins, camping spots, boating, saltwater fishing and excellent views of the nearby San Juan Islands. (Coming soon in my San Juan County article!)
Beautiful water views from the Anacortes area. Dreamy! (Photo credit: B. Skoczen)
Heading into Anacortes proper, you’ll drive past the turnoff towards Deception Pass. If you’ve never been – and even if you have – it’s an area not to be missed. But we’ll be back around this way shortly – time to check out the lovely coastal town of Anacortes in the meantime.
After turning onto Commercial Avenue, the main drag through downtown Anacortes, I headed towards Cap Sante Marina and the Port of Anacortes. Given my enduring dream to own and live on a boat, I always like to wistfully check out the marina scene. (Cap Sante indeed has live-aboard moorage. #LifeGoals) Upon driving into the parking lot, I noted it looked like an event was going on – complete with food trucks and music. Score! The day just kept getting better…
I want to live on a boat!
Play some chess while watching the boats!
Lovely, lovely boats at the Cap Sante Marina…
Pretty sure I could use one of those boats…
Walking towards the marina, it looked like the festivities were being sponsored by Anthony’s at Cap Sante Marina and Anthony’s – The Cabana. They were giving away free chowder and ice cream and the waterfront area was festive with face-painting, balloons and music. Local favorite, Lopez Island Creamery also had a food truck set up for more ice cream options. It was a glorious sunny morning, but not too hot – and not too early to sit at one of the tables lining the waterfront walkway and enjoy my free clam chowder and ice cream. But I still had that fifty dollars burning a hole in my pocket… (As my mom always liked to point out, whenever I had any extra money.) I’d seen signs for the Anacortes Farmers Market while at the Marina and arrows pointing down the walking path… Why not? There’s always something delicious to be found at a farmers market…
Delicious food and beautiful views at Anthony’s at Cap Sante Marina and Anthony’s Cabana
Free chowder on the waterfront!
Anthony’s Cabana at Cap Sante Marina
A beautiful day to hang out at the Marina
Walking north down the waterfront path, I first came upon the spectacular and well-preserved W.T. Preston, part of theMaritime Heritage Center. The W.T. Preston was a steam-powered, hazard-clearing “snagboat” operational in local waters from 1929 through 1981. It’s on the National Register of Historic Places and is a National Historic Landmark. Both the W.T. Preston and the heritage center are well worth a look and provide a great view into earlier maritime work in the area. (Open April thru October – Check website for tour hours.)
The W.T. Preston Snagboat
Learn all about the seafaring history of the Anacortes area.
The W.T. Preston Snagboat – Take a tour!
The W.T. Preston Snagboat – in operation until 1981.
Visiting the Anacortes Farmers Market was a great way to spend a sunny Saturday at lunchtime. Live music, great local produce, artisan crafts, handmade food items – you name it, the market had it. While I still had that hole burning through my pocket, I played it cool and walked away with a very reasonable haul of produce from the Frog Song Farm stand and some amazing baked goods from the stellar Breadfarm. The waterfront area was filled with so much to see and do – it would be easy to make it a regular trek if I lived in the area. The market is open year-round with seasonal hours – and they even have apie festival in September and a holiday market around Thanksgiving. (Did I mention the PIE FESTIVAL!?)
Oh Breadfarm, how I love thee so…
Delicious produce from Frog Song Farm
Those radishes were delicious!
Great music throughout the day!
If you’re hanging out in the waterfront / farmers market area, consider adding these spots to your agenda:
Mad Hatter Ice Cream was voted Best of Skagit 2019 for desserts and it’s well-deserved. They serve both hard ice cream and soft serve in many different flavors and create several ice cream inspired masterpieces. Yum!
Dockside Dogs can be found as you drive into the parking lot area for Cap Sante Marina. They’re hard to miss, in fact – but who would want to? Housed in a small, quirky hut, they serve delicious dogs, chili and beverages.
Grab a dog and go for a walk along the Tommy Thompson Trail. It starts at the marina and heads south. Walk across Fidalgo Bay on an abandoned train trestle. Cool!
Head north from the waterfront and arrive at Cap Sante Park. (At the end of Commercial Ave.) There are great walking trails and beautiful views of the neighboring San Juan Islands.
Check out the Waterfront Festival (Jun 1-2) for two days of art, music, a lot of food, a car show and an excellent take on the relaxed vibe of Anacortes.
Ice cream – delicious and cool!
All paths lead to Dockside Dogs!
Anacortes suffers no shortage of great places to dine – especially if you’re down for excellent seafood. If you’re not sure what sounds good, it’s as easy as taking a cruise up Commercial Avenue to peruse the many options.
I love kippers (smoked trout) for breakfast and if you do, too, Adrift has your number. They serve tasty breakfast, lunch and dinner in a great location directly on Commercial Avenue – with outdoor seating for the sunny days. All locally sourced ingredients!
Just down from Adrift, Gere-A-Deli serves up tasty deli fare and sandwiches with classics like the Ruben – or maybe you fancy liverwurst? Voted 2019 Best of Skagit – Deli.
Greek Islands Restaurant offers up Greek favorites for your lunch and dinner needs – located directly on Commercial Avenue. (Closed Sunday / Monday)
For all things seafood, check out Bob’s Chowder Bar. Featuring BBQ salmon, chowder (obviously), fish tacos, FRIED PICKLES and more. Very tasty! They also have a location in nearby La Conner.
Should you be in the market for a donut bacon cheeseburger – and WHO ISN’T? – check out the funky Vagabond Station on Commercial Avenue. Serving great burgers and more, they’re definitely worth a stop.
Should you be interested in a classic diner experience, head to Island Café – Also on Commercial Avenue. They serve breakfast all day along with lunch and dinner. Their raspberry French toast stuffed with cream cheese is divine.
A great charcuterie plate and a delicious glass of wine on a sunny day? Yes, please! Check out Salt & Vine, located just off Commercial Avenue for a delicious and refined stop on your Anacortes adventure. And if you appreciate a good glass of wine like I do, be sure to visit Anacortes in April for the Anacortes Spring Wine Festival.
For a great cup of coffee in a comfy, art-friendly scene, stop in at Johnny Picasso’s on Commercial Avenue. Also through the same entrance, be sure to peruse the goods at The Red Snapper Gift Shop – ‘lots of cool, funny items for all.
If you’d like to extend your awesome day-trip, check in at the Majestic Inn & Spa (c. 1890), located in the center of historic downtown on Commercial Avenue. It was renovated in 2013, features a beautiful rooftop lounge and is home to the elegant and delicious, 5th Street Bistro.
Delicious wine and cheese to be found at Salt & Vine off Commercial Avenue
The funky and fun Red Snapper gift shop
The lovely Majestic Inn and 5th Street Bistro
Great coffee and art!
Try the raspberry stuffed French toast at Island Cafe!
Gere-a-Deli and Adrift – two great dining choices!
Something I’m always on the lookout for is a great brewery. Skagit County understands my needs and meets them in excellent fashion. In fact, they make it pretty easy to map out your brewery strategy when planning your next Skagit County adventure. Hit up the Skagit Farm to Pint site for a list of all the Skagit Breweries and information on following the very cool Passport & Ale Trail.
To fulfill your Anacortes brewery desires, you needn’t look far. Check out these options for a tall, cold one:
Located in the heart of historic downtown Anacortes on Commercial Avenue, head to Anacortes Brewery and Rockfish Grill for a great local beer and excellent seafood, burgers and wood-fired pizzas. I’m particularly fond of their Cream Bee and Tripel Vision
Do an Anacortes pub crawl and head directly across the street from the Anacortes Brewery to the Brown Lantern Ale House. Great food, beer and live music – you can’t go wrong!
Heading into Anacortes on SR-20, look for Bastion Brewing Co. (Very close to SR-20 turnoff towards Deception pass) Stop in for a tasty pint of their on-tap beers or ciders and a meal before heading on to the majesty of Deception Pass.
If you’d like to celebrate Skagit County beer in all its glory, add the Anacortes Bier on the Pier festival to your calendar. (Oct 4-5) Featuring 30 breweries and 10 cideries, it will be a fine way to spend a crisp fall weekend.
If you’re looking to walk off all the delicious food and drink you’ve sampled on your Anacortes trip, be sure to investigate the great Arts and shopping opportunities in the area.
Two wonderful book shops in Anacortes are the Watermark Book Company and Pelican Bay Books & Coffee Shop. Both charmingly represent the classic bookstore and are located appropriately in downtown historic Anacortes on Commercial Avenue.
Visit the Scott Milo Gallery on Commercial Avenue and enjoy what the local artists have to share. For further celebration of the Arts, check out the annual Anacortes Art Festival (Aug 2-4) for a great display of fine art, music and delicious food.
Anacortes has a great selection of antique shops. Two of my favorites are Alley Cat Antiques and Home Sweet Home Antiques, both on Commercial Avenue. An excellent way to take in the Antiques scene is with a visit to the Anacortes Vintage Market for their annual spring and fall markets.
To investigate how those antiques might’ve been applied, make a visit to the Anacortes History Museum for a look into Anacortes days gone by. Located in the historic Carnegie Library building on 8th Street in downtown Anacortes.
The Eagles Hall in downtown Anacortes
Time stands still in Anacortes
The beautiful post office building on Commercial Avenue
Scott Milo gallery on Commercial Avenue
The very cool Watermark Book Co. in downtown
I wanted to make a point to mention the San Juan ferry route at the end of the Anacortes section. Not because it’s lacking importance, but because often times – and I’m personally guilty – it’s the only reason I’m actually in Anacortes. The San Juan Islands are simply amazing and I don’t think I’d ever tire of visiting them and enjoying the awesome ferry ride along the way. That said, Anacortes, all on its own, is a marvelous place to visit and merits serious attention any time of the year.
Nevertheless, I can’t deny the awesomeness of the ferry routes to both the San Juan IslandsandSidney, BC. My pro-tip suggestion is to add a solid visit to Anacortes before or after any trip to the San Juans. You won’t be sorry. (More Pro Tips: Be sure to make ferry reservations ahead of time – especially in the busy summer months.)
In addition to the entertaining and delicious downtown core, Anacortes has many things to offer in the way of outdoors activities. You can hike – or drive – to the highest point on Fidalgo Island, Mount Erie Park and take in the magnificent views. Or stop in at Washington Park for great camping, boating and hiking opportunities. (Near the ferry terminal at the west end of Anacortes)
Hop a ferry to the San Juan Islands! (Photo credit: B. Skoczen)
Someone stole my boat! (Photo credit: B. Skoczen)
Another great adventure spot in the area, just north of Anacortes and across the Guemes Channel is the lovely Guemes Island. Accessed by its very own ferry line, the Guemes Island Ferry, the 5-minute crossing brings you to a peaceful, largely untouched island of relaxation and beauty. The local hiking trails and beaches are wonderful and the island feels much removed from the hectic pace of the mainland. (Although Anacortes is actually pretty laid back…)
Guemes Island isn’t where you’d head for big-box shopping or multiple entertainment options, but the tiny island certainly has its charms. Check out these areas on your next Guemes Island visit:
Enjoy great views, beautiful coastal flora and fauna and easy-going hiking on the Guemes Mountain Trail. A beautiful way to spend a peaceful afternoon.
Hit up the Peach Preserve for excellent coastal views, bird and wildlife viewing, hiking and general enjoyment of the coastal scene.
Don’t let the name deceive you, the Guemes Island General Store is not only a general store, but so much more. They have a full menu, serve beer and wine and regularly host live music events. The General Store is a must stop for any Guemes Island visit. If you’re around the area in June, be sure to check out their Summer Solstice Music Fest.
Since 1947, the Guemes Island Resort has been hosting visitors to the area. Outfitted with cabins, yurts and houses, it’s a wonderful retreat from the city. They also have boat rentals, a sauna, a massage therapist, gift shop, rec room and hot tubs. (Wood-fired and saltwater!) Dog friendly!
Gratuitous Anacortes lilac shot. Because I love lilacs.
Just before you reach Anacortes, the main route of SR-20 turns southwest towards the glorious Deception Pass and the Deception Pass bridges. (The bridges are on the National Register of Historic Places) Of all the many amazing Washington State destinations, Deception Pass positively deserves to be on the best-of list. Not only is the area absolutely spectacular, the drive there is gorgeous and there are countless places to stop and enjoy along the way.
Some of the worthwhile spots to investigate on your way to Deception Pass:
On the left side of the road, just after you turn onto SR-20 towards Deception Pass, check out the very unique Anacortes Flea Market. Chock-full of interesting finds, this is a great place to investigate. You never know what amazing treasure you might find! They also feature local produce and seafood.
You will very likely have to wait in a long line, but I assure you it’s worth it. Stop by the Shrimp Shack located directly off SR-20 and indulge in all things shrimp and seafood. They even sell freshly caught shrimp by the bag! (Pro tip: They have two lines – one for cold food and one for grilled/hot food. Make sure you’re getting in the right line from the start!)
Make sure you get in the correct line!
You can’t miss Lake Campbell as you’re heading towards Deception Pass. (Located close to the Shrimp Shack!) There are several lakes in the area, but Lake Campbell is the largest. There are a lot of great boating activities and fishing in the area and if you’re looking for someplace cozy to stay, check out Lake Campbell Lodging, just across from the lake.
A little further up the road towards Deception Pass, you’ll come to Pass Lake. (Turn onto Rosario Road off SR-20. It’s just across from Deception Pass State Park – Bowman Bay entrance) It’s a little smaller than Lake Campbell, but also has its fair share of great boating and fishing. (Note: Fly-fishing only, catch and release only and non-motorized boats only) Check out the Pass Lake hike for a great round-trip hike up into the forest with great views overlooking the lake.
My secret perch overlooking Pass Lake
A great trail above the lake
Beautiful, serene Pass Lake
What a tranquil afternoon that guy must be having…
Just across from the Pass Lake parking lot, you’ll see the Bowman Bay entrance to Deception Pass State Park. The park is quite large (3854 acres!), spanning two counties and Bowman Bay is a great way to get oriented to the scope and scale of all the park has to offer. Bowman Bay also plays host to the Civilian Conservation Corps Interpretive Center. The CCCs largely built all of the US state and national parks and the interpretive center is an excellent look into the depth of hard work they accomplished.
As one would imagine with the impressive amount of available shoreline in the park (77,000 feet of saltwater shoreline!), all manner of boating is popular and Bowman Bay gets things started with kayak rentals and tours. They also have a single-lane boat launch area for motorized vehicles. (As is the case with all Washington State parks, a Discover Pass is recommended for parking and water-access, but there’s also the option to pay $10 for day-use of WA State Park areas.) There are also many hiking options in the Bowman Bay area such as Lottie Bay and the trail to Rosario Beach.
Lovely Bowman Bay
Looks like the perfect place to launch an adventure
So many boating options…
Stock up on canoes and kayaks!
If you don’t feel like hiking or boating to Rosario Beach, jump back in your vehicle and head up Rosario Road to Cougar Gap Road and the Rosario Beach entrance. Deception Pass State Park is the most visited park in the state and it’s easy to see why. Rosario Beach is stunning and often quite busy because of this fact. It is, however, very much worth a visit. The views are amazing, there are excellent tide pools to explore and 38 miles of trails, including bike and horse, to enjoy. Throw in boating, docks to tie up to, fishing (saltwater and freshwater) and great shoreline access and it’s a stellar time to be had.
I’m on a boat! (Well, I’d like to be…)
So much to explore in the tide pools
Very cool tide pools at Rialto beach
Just dreamy!
Life in the tide pools
Beautiful, clear water in the tide pools
One thing not to miss while visiting Rosario Beach is a visit to The Maiden of Deception Pass. It’s a beautiful Native American story pole based on a Samish legend, perched just above the beach. Also be sure to take the short trail up to Rosario Head. (Just past the Maiden) The view of the surrounding islands and the windswept bend of the trees at the top are truly spectacular. Check out the Headlands / Rosario Head / Lighthouse Point trail if you’d like a greatest-hits look at the surrounding areas.
Beautiful view from the lookout above the Maiden
Stalwart, windswept trees on the lookout above the Maiden
Looking out onto Rialto Beach
The Maiden of Deception Pass
Should you want to extend your stay in the park – and there are plenty of reasons to stay – the Bowman Bay, Cranberry Lake and Quarry Pond areas offer camping. Cranberry Lake and Quarry Pond are actually situated on Whidbey Island and in Island County, but it’s just a quick trip across the Deception Pass Bridges to arrive at this section of the park. (Stay tuned for my Island County article – coming soon!)
Great picnic shelter at Rialto Beach
Nice place to take a kayak break
Rialto Beach is a great place for family fun
Just sit back and relax on Rialto Beach
As if Deception Pass State Park wasn’t enough majesty and glory, just wait until you get to the actual bridges. They are one of the most awe-inspiring sights in the state, whether you’re driving, riding or walking across and worth a trip all by themselves. Sunrises and sunsets are particularly gorgeous from the bridges, but to get the most out of an investigative walk under the bridges, I’d advise making your trek during full daylight hours.
Park and go explore the bridge!
What a view!
An absolute marvel of engineering
If you do indeed want to walk across and/or under the bridges – and I highly recommend it – there are parking strips on both the Skagit and Island County parts. There is also a small lot on the Skagit side, just before you head south over the bridge. (There are bathrooms and a whale watching outfit located in the lot.) I was lucky enough to find a spot on the parking strip just before the bridge and it was the perfect location for traipsing off under that section of bridge.
Completed in 1935 by Washington State Highways and the CCCs, the bridges are a marvel of construction. Situated high above Deception and Canoe Passes, they connect Whidbey Island with Fidalgo Island and provide easy access across the tumultuous waters below. It must’ve been quite an endeavor to take the ferry across the channels earlier in the 20th century.
Deception Pass marker on the Skagit County side
Walking across the bridges can be a little nerve-wracking, especially when the big trucks roll by, but it is thrilling and well worth the effort. Granted, if you’re not good with heights, it’s probably not a walk you’re likely to enjoy. (It’s 180 feet down to the water!) I love heights, but have to admit to feeling a little wobbly once I made it to the middle section. The view is overwhelmingly beautiful, but you are very high up and the walkway is pretty dang narrow. But still totally worth it!! (Pro Tip: HOLD ON TIGHTLY to your camera or phone while on the bridges. I luckily still have possession of my phone, but there was a precarious fumble incident…)
Yowsa, that’s a big drop!
HOLD ONTO TIGHT TO YOUR GOODS!
Beautiful views from the bridge
That’s a long way down!
Walking across the bridges is fantastic, but equally amazing and incredibly unique is the trip under the bridges. Accessible on either side, locate the stairways that lead down towards the bridge’s underbelly. There are informal trails leading closer to the cliffs, but be very careful when getting close to the edge as there are no guardrails and the drop is quite extensive. (Probably not a great place for the kids to explore.) Standing directly underneath the bridge and looking out through the girders is an absolutely amazing sight to behold – don’t miss the opportunity! (Note: It’s illegal to cross the highway – you must use the stairways to go under the bridges.)
Quite a few stairs down to the underbelly of the bridge
Heading under the bridge…
I’m a troll under the bridge!
Heading back from under the bridge
Heading back towards Anacortes, it was time to check out Samish Island and surrounding areas. Samish Island can be reached via the Bayview-Edison Road off of SR-20, near Whitney. If you’re traveling from the north, the drive on SR-11 (aka: Chuckanut Drive) is beautiful. Another option is to take SR-11 off of I-5, just north of the Burlington area. Home to the Samish Indian Nation, Samish Island is technically a peninsula and while small, host to several worthwhile destinations. Some of the great things to check out while in the area:
There are many places I’d like to visit in Washington State and one of the spots on my bucket list is the Point Williams Lodge on Samish Island. It’s pretty swanky and I can seriously envision myself throwing a lovely weekend event with friends at the lodge… (Come on – they’ll hook you up with a personal chef and a STRING QUARTET. Any takers??) They also have a smaller cottage for 5-day stays. #LifeGoals
If you’re in the market for fresh oysters from Samish Bay, mussels, clams or Dungeness crab, stop in at Blau Oyster Co. seafood market and fill up your cooler! Maybe your private chef at the Point Williams Lodge could whip up an elegant dinner on the deck for you…
Looking out towards the San Juan Islands – and oyster farms
Amazing view. Amazing oysters!
The view of oyster beds from the Samish Lookout
Hike, bike or drive up to the gorgeous Samish Lookout, part of the Blanchard State Forest, and enjoy stunning views of the San Juans and Skagit Valley. There are many trailheads in the area, including Oyster Dome and sections of the Pacific Northwest Trail as well hang gliding and paragliding opportunities. The Oyster Dome trail was recently voted ‘Best of Skagit 2019 – Best Trail.’
The Pacific NW trail from Samish Lookout
Oyster Dome trail from Samish lookout
Sample the local artistry, food and music at the Samish Island Arts Festival on July 27th at the Samish Island Community Center.
Take a walkabout and enjoy the beautiful island scenery on the East Loop Walk. Located at Camp Samish, it takes you around the lovely Freestad Lake.
A patchwork wonder from Samish lookout
A great place to hang glide!
The Northwest, in all its splendor…
Sigh… So much beauty in Skagit County!
The old adage, ‘good things come in small packages’ directly pops to mind when thinking about the tiny area of Bow–Edison. Just over from the Samish Island peninsula, the combined townships account for a food haven of impressive proportion, packed into a relatively small section of Skagit County. Add in beautiful countryside with sweeping views of Mt. Baker, the San Juan Islands and Samish Bay and you might not want to leave. (I truly did not.)
Prolific journalist and famous WWII war correspondent, Edward R. Murrow grew up in Edison from a young age. It’s profound to think of such epic quotes as “Hello, America. This is London calling.” and “Good night and good luck.” and know they came from someone who played in the fields of Edison as a small boy. (He later graduated from WSU) If you’re not familiar with the work of Edward R. Murrow, check out the 2005 film Good Night and Good luck about his conflict with Senator Joseph McCartney. It’s a very well done piece with an excellent soundtrack.
Streets of sleepy Edison – boyhood home of Edward R. Murrow
Beautiful scenery on Bow-Edison Road
Beautiful flowers everywhere in Edison
As mentioned, Bow-Edison is an absolute food haven. If you’re going to the area, definitely bring a cooler and ice packs as you’re going to need to take home a haul. It’s unavoidable and necessary. Trust me. Some of the treasure trove opportunities to be explored:
For some of the most delicious bread and baked goods on the planet, check out Breadfarm. Crusty breads, delicious cookies, buns – everything is amazing! I am particularly in love with the chocolate ginger spice cookies. If you can’t make it to Edison, look for them at the Anacortes, Bellingham and Everett Farmers Markets. (Cash or check only for the shop – Or shop online!)
The amazing Breadfarm – and delicious Slough Food just next door!
I WILL EAT ALL THE BREAD!
Eat Local!!
I was there later in the afternoon and the line was still out the door…
Farming local shellfish since 1890, Taylor Shellfish has become synonymous with high quality and taste. Always well-reviewed and featured on shows such as Top Chef, Taylor Shellfish sets the bar for NW shellfish. Now with several locations in western Washington, the Samish Oyster Bar & Shellfish Market is their original and premier stop for enjoying the tasty morsels as well as buying some for home. Grab your freshly barbecued oysters and enjoy the sunset from their waterfront picnic area – and take home a big bag of fresh oysters for the grill! Sublime…
Fresh oysters – THIS WAY!
Low tide at Taylor Shellfish
I’ll take one of everything!
What to do with all those shells?
Tasty dining by the water
Beer, wine, oysters and more!
Stop by the Samish Bay Cheese retail shop and tasting room in Bow for amazing local cheeses along with beer, wine, cider and other tasty treats. Their Arugula Ladysmith and signature Aged Ladysmith cheeses are amazing. And they pair quite nicely with several of the items found at my next stop…
Honestly. SO delicious!
A must-stop!
Yes, please.
The happy cows of Samish Bay Cheese
Lovely flowers!
So many delicious things to try!
The Bow Hill Blueberries farm, in operation since 1947, is certified organic and family-run. Their excellent farm store is open year-round and has all you need in the way of delicious, organic heirloom blueberries, including cold-pressed blueberry juice, jam, marinades and more. Pickled blueberries? They’ve got ‘em – and they are phenomenal! While recently perusing and sampling the farm store goods, they gave me a recipe for grilled salmon featuring the pickled berries and I plan on making it very soon. Also on my visit, I had the pleasure of meeting owner, Harley Soltes. He graciously took time out of his day to tell me about the farm and its history, hipped me to great local establishments to visit and generally shared his knowledge about the local farming industry, including the benefits of farm-to-table life and so much more. It was a mini master’s class! The farm also offers a summer pie making class, the occasional farm-to-table dinner and when blueberries are in season, they offer great U-Pick opportunities. Additionally, Bow Hill blueberries are featured in the delicious Lopez Island Creamery blueberry ice cream, which is available for purchase in the farm store! This farm is a gem and a wonderfully preserved part of Skagit County agricultural history – and an absolute must-stop whenever visiting the Bow-Edison area. (Note: This season’s U-Pick begins Friday, July 26th and continues into September while supplies last. U-Pick is open on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays only. Check their U-Pick page for more details and seasonal updates.) (Farm store open year-round, Mon-Sat 10-5, Sun 11-5)
Pickled blueberries – who knew?? SO delicious!
Do not miss stopping here!
What used to be an actual mink house way back in the day now hosts farm-to-table dinners!
Soooooo close!
Flowers and berries!
Just a few of the excellent offerings at Bow Hill Blueberries
I wanted it all!!
BEYOND charming.
Close up on the lovelies…
Gothberg Farms offers fresh goat cheeses at their Bow farm. Look for the “open today” sign when heading to the farm. They have an “Honor Box” self-service fridge. Cash is encouraged, but they usually have someone around who can do cards and checks. COOL!
Check out the Golden Glen Creamery in Bow for delicious, handcrafted cheese, butter and dairy. (M-F, 10am-4pm – closed weekends and holidays)
Farm to Market Bakery in Bow serves up tasty bakery goods and coffees, plus breakfast and lunch items. (Wed-Sun, 9am-4pm) Located just next door is their sister operation, The Rhody Café. They serve farm-to-table dinners along with breakfast, brunch and lunch. (Closed Mon-Tues)
Stop in at Tweets Café for tasty farm-to-table breakfast and brunch along with delicious pies, cakes and more! Tweets was actually closed for the weekend when I visited, but I plan on venturing back soon. I’ve heard too many excellent reviews to not give them a try!
The venerable Tweets Cafe and the i.e. gallery next door
Featuring local ingredients and filling the table with delicious fried oysters, awesome burgers and much more, The Old Edison is an excellent place to relax and enjoy all things Skagit County. Outdoor seating and live music on the weekends.
Great food, live music and good times!
Located directly next door to Breadfarm, Slough Food offers a great selection of wine, cheese and meats as well as a delicious café menu. They also throw glorious onsite foodie events. For instance, I happened to be in the area for one of their monthly paella parties and it was FANTASTIC! Paired with a glass of wine and a crusty Breadfarm baguette, I was full for the rest of the day. Check out the next paella party happening on August 18th from 11am – 3pm.
So much delicious cheese at Slough Food – and MUCH more!
Can’t quite describe how delicious this was… WOW.
The master at work…
Breadfarm bread, local butter and a tasty glass of wine with my paella. Dreamy!
Paella porn!
The view from my garden table on the Slough Food patio
If you’re tooling around the Bow area on summer Thursdays, be sure to stop in at the Bow Farmer’s Market for a great selection of local foods and artisan goods. (Thursdays, 1-6pm, June 13 – Sept. 12 – at the awesome Samish Bay Cheese) For all things winter holiday, check out their Holiday Festival on December 7th from 10am-4pm at the Edison Elementary School.
Don’t forget to check out the excellent non-food options in Edison as well. After all, you’ll need some way to work off all of that amazing food you just consumed. Visit the funky Lucky Dumpster for one-of-a-kind pieces and custom furniture (cash/check only) and the Smith & Vallee and e.gallery for beautiful artwork.
A truly lovely and quirky spot.
So many local artists to check out!
Ain’t it so… On the side of the Lucky Dumpster
My lucky fox and lucky ducky cups from the Lucky Dumpster! I was feeling pretty lucky on this trip, after all…
Beautiful art to be found at the Smith & Vallee Gallery
Coming soon to the Bow-Edison area, keep an eye out for the opening of much-anticipated “brewstillery” Terramar. They’ll be featuring locally crafted beer, spirits and wood-fired pizza. I’m very excited to stop in on future Bow-Edison pilgrimages. Hit up their Facebook page for progress updates.
One of the most amazing abandoned homes I’ve ever seen. Found along the drive down to Taylor Shellfish.
On the topic of stunning views, Mount Vernon, largest city in Skagit County and county seat, is one of my favorite places to visit in the state. Great food, great scenery and absolutely wonderful, stupendous, sweeping fields of the most gorgeous flowers ever. The area is an amazing feast for the eyes, stomach and soul.
There are many types of farms and fields in the Mount Vernon area, but the most famous of all – world-famous, in fact – would have to be the breathtaking tulip and daffodil fields. Every year, beginning in March with the daffodils, people flock from all around to take in acre upon acre of glorious color and bloom. The scene really explodes in April with the arrival of one of the most amazing floral displays at the Skagit Valley Tulip Festival. It is truly difficult to accurately explain the pure magic of the experience, but I’ll give it a whirl.
All the colors!
My favorite mix of colors!
Tulips and more tulips!
My friend Lorrie and I have long been promising each other to visit the tulip fields together. Both of us are avid flower lovers and have been attempting to make a pilgrimage for years, but our schedules never seemed to sync up. This year, however, we were bound and determined to make it work and finally, glorious tulip fields were ours for the enjoying. VICTORY!
We took off bright and early on a Saturday morning as we were advised to get there early due to large crowds of flower fanatics. For the record, I’m SO glad we listened. We also checked out the official brochure on the Tulip Festival website and learned that driving past the Mount Vernon exit on I-5 and taking Exit 230 onto SR-20 is a much stealthier and less congested route. What a beautiful back way through gorgeous farmland and countryside!
The first group of llamas we saw that day!
Just hanging out on the idyllic backroads of Mt. Vernon
It was barely 10am when we arrived at RoozenGaarde, with the triumphant Star Wars theme blasting on my playlist as we pulled into the area, but the lots were already filling with flower worshipers and the entrance line was snaking down from the ticket box. ($7 for adults during week and $10 on weekends, kids 5 and under are free, parking is free. Important note: Dogs are not allowed in the tulip grounds – keep the pups at home.) It was turning into a lovely sunny morning, but it had recently rained and the parking lot was muddy in places. (Pro tip: Wear comfortable footwear you won’t mind getting muddy. Rubber boots/Wellies are perfect – and easily hosed off at the end of your tulip trek.) After donning said appropriate footwear, Lorrie and I traipsed off to the entrance to get our tulips on… FLOWER TIME!
The line to get in! At least it was pretty… (Photo credit: L. Ruiz)
Pro-tips from the RoozenGaarde crew (Photo credit: L. Ruiz)
Photo op at RoozenGaarde (Photo credit: L. Ruiz)
After our fairly brief wait in line, we entered the RoozenGaarde grounds and were met with one of the most beautiful and colorful sights we’d ever seen. It was spectacular! Tulips were definitely the star of the show, but there were all manner of flowers everywhere. Gardens, paths, flowering trees, flowers growing in trees – every display imaginable filled the sprawling grounds. I’ve never experienced anything like it. RoozenGaarde is the largest flower bulb grower in North America and home to more than a 1000 acres of tulips and daffodils. To say you can see flowers as far as the eye can see is an absolute understatement.
Tulips growing IN trees!
Just plain AWESOME!
Just like the Dutch countryside…
They had some amazing and quirky varieties of tulips!
Beautiful varieties!
I love these ones. Pointy!
The “Salmon Parrot”
Who doesn’t love a grape hyacinth?
Flower overload!
Dreeeeeeamy!
If only I had this talented of a green thumb…
Frilly and lovely.
So very dainty!
There are two main tulip and daffodil fields in the area, RoozenGaarde and Tulip Town. Both are spectacular, but we chose to start off with RoozenGaarde. We did head over towards Tulip Town later in the afternoon, but only enjoyed the fields from an outer view. If you visit Tulip Town proper and don’t feel like slushing through the fields, hop one of their Blue Trolley Tours for a reasonable two dollars. (10am – 4pm) (Pro Tip: Before you make your flower trek, check out the bloom map and it will help point out what is in season at the time.)
So very elegant.
Fields of gold!
Rich with color…
Stripe on stripe!
I could’ve walked around here all day…
Gorgeous!
Clouds and flowers. Beautiful.
I love all the shades of green along with the blooms
Gorgeous Orangeous!
My lovely friend, Lorrie with her new tulip viewing hat!
Striking yellows!
I feel confident in letting the pictures speak for themselves, but it is easy and completely enjoyable to spend a very happy afternoon in the tulip fields. In addition to the simple pleasure of fully surrounding oneself in fields of joy, they have concessions, a gift shop, bulb and bloom shops and photo ops of epic magnitude. I am beyond happy to have finally gotten the opportunity to bask in the colorful landscape and will absolutely be returning next season.
Double tulip action!
I want to live in this picture.
Swirls of loveliness
Local chickens not impressed with the flowers.
Old barns and lilacs. My new band name. The road past the Tulip Town fields.
All of these tulips for $20!!
After winding out of the area, met with beautiful flowers and countryside the whole way, we drove towards the town of Mount Vernon to check out the Mount Vernon Street Fair (April 19-21) and historic downtown area. The traffic was a little heavy going back towards town, but the day was beautiful and it was kind of nice to slowly roll through the route into town. Parking was a little crowded in town due to the street fair, but we found a pretty sweet spot down by the river and easily walked over to the heart of the downtown core. Additionally, the walk along the river is beautiful and well worth a leisurely stroll.
Tulips AND a street fair? Come on!! (Photo credit: L. Ruiz)
Tulip tower power! Next to historic downtown Mount Vernon
We had enjoyed a snack while tiptoeing through the tulips, but were still feeling a bit peckish. Given all the great food options in the downtown Mount Vernon area along with the food vendors set up for the street fair, there was no shortage of excellent options. (The street fair is quite large and fills up the entire downtown core!) In between making our way through the fair and checking out all the artisan crafts and foods, we did indeed take great advantage of the selections. A few of our favorite finds and more:
For an excellent smoked old fashioned and a very tasty charcuterie board, stop by the Valley Shine Distillery on First. We sat at the bar and had an excellent chat with the owner – great atmosphere, delicious food and excellent libations!
A wonderful place to stop and relax…
I can confirm that they were ALL delicious! I’m gonna need that Bonfire Toffee for ski adventures…
Flowers are EVERYwhere in Skagit County!
The Smoked Old Fashioned. Yowsa!!
So many delicious libations!
This charcuterie was faaaaabulous!
And the baked brie! Oh my…
Pure loveliness!
To keep the action going, a hit of espresso – and maybe some wine – was in order. We stopped in at the Ristretta Coffee Lounge & Wine Bar and took in the art scene and relaxed for a few minutes before rejoining the street fair party. (Voted Best of Skagit 2019 – Coffeehouse)
A little art with your wine and coffee?
Great coffee and wine at Ristretta!
If you’d like to add a bit of old fashioned refinement and flair to your flower appreciation, stop in at the Old Town Grainery Tearoom and Galleria for a traditional high tea or order ala carte from their menu. Lovely! Also located in the Grainery is the enjoyable Italian restaurant, Il Granaio. The Grainery is quite an international hub!
I have fond memories of rolling into the Skagit River Brewery after a long camping trip in the nearby Mt. Baker area. They have great beer and a tasty pub menu and downing a cold one after several days on the hot trail was absolutely transcendent.
Sporting locations in Mt. Vernon, La Conner and Anacortes, the much beloved Calico Cupboard serves great breakfast and lunch to a very appreciative and non-stop crowd. (Voted Best of Skagit – Bakery/Breakfast)
There are many great places to set up a picnic in the Mount Vernon area. Little Mountain Park is a beautiful place to start! Head to the excellent Skagit Valley Food Co-Op before you go and outfit yourself with all the tasty goods. (Voted Best of Skagit 2019 – Grocery Store)
Grab some delicious homemade ice-cream from the Co-op!
Just north of historic downtown Mount Vernon, look for the Farmstrong Brewery Co. taproom and beer garden. Purveyors of delicious beer and awesome cider, they are well worth a visit. Regular food trucks onsite – or brown bag it! (Voted best of Skagit 2019 – Brewery)
During the Tulip Festival, there was a great pop-up wine tasting at the Perry & Carlson Gallery. The gallery is a lovely place to stop in any time of year, but even nicer with a delicious glass of Washington State wine. Keep an eye out for events throughout the year.
Stop in at Perry and Carlson in historic downtown Mount Vernon
If you are a fan of AMAZING chocolate and confections, do not miss a visit to the award-winning Forte Artisan Chocolate on First. I’m not going to lie, I walked out of there having easily spent forty dollars on various sugary treats. I have no regrets.
Lorrie and her new tulip hat enjoying the chocolate!
Soooooo very delicious!
This was all chocolate!
Soooo many awards!
Part of my $40 haul. Heh.
For a taste of the official hard cider of the Tulip Festival, pay a visit to the Tulip Valley Winery for tastings on Saturdays and Sundays from 11:30am – 5:30pm.
If you’re in the mood for a crazy sundae or a good old-fashioned burger, Big Scoops Sundae Palace is the place to go! They’ve been around since 1973 and not much has changed with the décor – I felt like a kid again the second I walked in the door. They also feature delicious NW favorite, Cascade Glacier ice cream.
Right out of my childhood…
Exotic sundaes!
I wish these prices were still current! (c. 1973)
A great way to sample many of the local foods and artisan wares of the area is with a stop at the Mount Vernon Farmers Market. (Saturdays in late May thru mid-October, 9am-3pm at Riverwalk Park with additional times and locations throughout the year.)
Scenes at the Street Fair
Great to see the younger generation playing Jazz!
Things to do…
Great old buildings in the historic downtown area.
A fine idea.
Check out the local Farmers Market!
Visiting Mount Vernon in celebration of spring blooms is always a good idea, but there are so many reasons to visit year-round. The historic downtown area and Riverwalk Park are excellent any time and it’s easy to find concerts, festivals and delicious food throughout the year. Just a few of the options:
The historic Lincoln Theatre, located on 1st Street, features a great variety of live music and theatrical performances throughout the year along with first-run films. (Voted Best of Skagit 2019 – Theatre)
Lincoln Theatre – A Mount Vernon Classic!
There’s nothing like enjoying a bit of haggis while watching burly athletes toss around heavy cabers (long wood poles), weights and more. Check out the annual Mt Vernon Highland Games for all things Scottish. Och aye! (July 13-14 at the lovely Edgewater Park)
Celebrate the agricultural and farming traditions of the area at the annual Skagit County Fair. Fried food and carnival rides for all! (Aug 7-10)
Celebrate the glory of beer at the Brewfest on the Skagit. Head to the river walk in downtown Mount Vernon to join in the hoppy festivities. (Aug 11, 4-9pm)
Enjoy the best of both worlds at the Skagit Wine & Beer Festival, featuring local beer and wine along with delicious bites prepared by Bellingham’s Hotel Bellwether. (Nov 23rd)
Among the many leisure activities to be found on the Skagit Riverwalk Park, be sure to check out the free summer concert series located at Riverwalk Plaza. (Thursday evenings at 6pm, July 11 – August 29)
Lorrie, her new tulip hat and the lovely Skagit River Riverwalk.
Located just across from the river and Riverwalk Park is the always eclectic Red Door Antique Mall. An interesting way to spend the afternoon any time of year.
Skagit County hosts many types of festivals throughout the year and the Skagit River Salmon Festival is one of the favorites. Sample delicious seafood, visit the beer garden and celebrate the yearly return of the Northwest’s most iconic fish on September 7th at Edgewater Park. (Voted Best of Skagit 2019 – Festival)
For fresh berries, produce, pumpkins and more, visit Schuh Farms from April thru December. They offer u-pick pumpkins in the fall along with other seasonal events. (Voted Best of Skagit 2019 – Farm)
Riverwalk Park is lovely!
The Division Street Bridge near historic downtown Mount Vernon and the Riverwalk.
Something new I learned about Mount Vernon and its contribution to the bounty of the area, is its hosting of WSU’s Bread Lab campus. Staffed by an ardent team of scientists, farmers, millers, bakers and bread lovers, the Bread Lab strives to learn about, educate, and grow all things grain. Their efforts have garnered global attention and if what’s being produced out of their Baking School is any indication of what they can offer the realm of baking and grain production, the world will be all the better – and tastier – for it. I was beyond excited to learn about their baking classes and will be signing up for a few in the near future! British meat pies or pierogi, anyone?
Another way the Skagit Valley is celebrating local grains is with the innovative operation at Skagit Valley Malting. Supplying many local brewers and distillers, they provide the malty goodness that gives those craft brews and spirits their body, color and many aspects of their flavor. Between the grains, hops, fruits and varied climates of Washington State, we really do corner the market on some pretty amazing beverage ingredients.
Rounding out our flower pilgrimage, Lorrie and I decided to make our way to the tiny town of Conway and up to the lovely La Conner. Since we wanted to make quick tracks to the area, we went south on I-5 and took Exit 221 over to Fir Island Road. If you’re in need of a good glass of wine or perhaps a round of tasty oysters before heading over to La Conner, stop by the Pasek Tasting Room and the Conway Pub & Eatery (since 1932) for the goods. Both can be found not far off the freeway exit.
The Pasek Cellars Winery Tasting Room near Mount Vernon and Conway
For the record, Fir Island Road is one of my favorite drives in the state – and one of my favorite runs. Normally, it wouldn’t be a road conducive to running, but it serves as part of the epic Ragnar route and was one of the legs I got to run. If you have 12 people willing to pile into a couple of vans for 36 hours to relay-race 200 miles from the Canadian border down to Whidbey Island, Ragnar is the scene for you! Each person ends up running three routes, spaced out over the 36-hour period. EPIC! And deliriously exhausting. But amazing…
You never know what you’ll come across on a backroad…
The historic Fir-Conway Lutheran Church. My starting point for leg 2 of the Ragnar relay race.
Taken while running down Fir Conway Road in the Ragnar relay race. Stunning!
Exhausted from running, but blown away by the beauty…
Fir Island Road is the quintessential country road, absolutely stunning and idyllic. Running down the road at sunset, flanked by old barns, beautiful pastures and grazing farm animals was one of the most peaceful and serene scenes I’ve ever experienced. (Minus being out of breath from running…) My route began at the picturesque Fir-Conway Lutheran Church (c. 1902) and ended at Snowgoose Produce, an excellent country store and produce stand tucked amongst the pastures and filled with delicious treats. They feature an ice cream counter stocked with all the Lopez Island Creamery flavors and it was quite the hit with the exhausted Ragnar participants.
So much goodness to be found at Snowgoose Produce
More tulips!
Pasta mama’s – from the Tri-Cities! (Cities of my youth)
Local oysters!
Salish Sea halibut. This thing was HUGE!
Delicious ice cream – and a hit with the weary Ragnar runners!
Ragnar runners perusing the wine section. I’m assuming they were done with their legs…
Just past Snowgoose Produce, take a left onto Best Road (It’s the best around!) and continue along the glorious backroads into La Conner. In addition to driving – or running – check out the Wiley Slough area for great hiking and bird-watching opportunities. Further along the way to La Conner, keep an eye out for the lovely Pleasant Ridge B&B off of Dodge Valley Road, complete with some very entertaining llamas out front. (We actually got to see quite a few llamas that day – a theme!)
More llama friends at the Pleasant Ridge B&B near La Conner (Photo credit: L. Ruiz)
Situated on the Swinomish Channel, La Conner is indisputably one of the most charming places in Washington State to visit. Founded in 1867, it is the oldest town in Skagit County. The historic downtown district is on the National Register of Historic Places and the entire town lends itself to an easy-going air of artful relaxation. Whether you’re hanging out on a boat, enjoying a cocktail on the waterfront or cozying up in one of the town’s many B&Bs, La Conner is the epicenter of slowing down and enjoying the ride. That it also happens to be host to the Daffodil Festival every March and is in close proximity of the daffodil and tulip fields are just more reasons to head to La Conner.
Beautiful sunset on the Swinomish Channel
Yep. I could live on a boat. And I would visit La Conner A LOT.
Arriving just before sunset, Lorrie and I took a peaceful stroll along the waterfront and enjoyed the boats coming and going in La Conner Marina. Our charcuterie plate and smoked old-fashioneds had worn off and we were getting vaguely hungry. BBQ sounded tasty, but we were sad to find the popular Whitey’s BBQ closed when we arrived as they’d sold out of the goods! Next time, Whitey’s BBQ… Next time. Grabbing some ice cream next door at La Conner Ice Cream Tower also seemed enticing, but as there was a line out the door, we were forced to scrap our initial plans. Hmmm… what to do…
Delicious BBQ in La Conner
Sigh… Sold out!
Not ones to suffer foodie defeat, we continued our stroll into the main part of downtown. We came across several excellent possibilities and eventually settled on theLa Conner Brewing Co., packed to the brim with customers enjoying local beer and food. Even though it was crowded, the atmosphere was relaxed, the service was great and the crab cakes and clam chowder were delicious. They have several tasty beers on tap, but their Pilsner balanced perfectly with my meal and it was a great way to round out the meal.
Delicious beer to be had…
Try the pilsner! (Note: The glass on the left, is actually the house white wine – BIG POUR!)
Great atmosphere at La Conner Brewing
The historic downtown area features many great dining options along with several places to enjoy a coffee, glass of wine or perhaps a delicious scone. Some of the excellent culinary possibilities when visiting the area:
Head to the La Conner Pub & Eatery for great food, tasty cocktails and lovely dining on the patio. The La Conner Pub & Eatery has been an important part of the downtown dining since the 70s and shows no sign of hanging up their apron.
For a lovely meal and waterfront dining, check out Nell Thorn Restaurant & Pub, located directly on the downtown waterfront. (Voted Best of Skagit 2019 – Fine Dining)
For a lovely night out, head to Nell Thorn on the waterfront
Featuring dishes based on the owner’s grandmother’s recipes, Anelia’s Kitchen & Stage serves delicious Polish cooking and regularly hosts live music in the historic downtown area. Pierogi and crepes – Yes, please!!
Enjoy farm-to-table dining at Seeds Bistro & Bar in historic downtown La Conner. Set inside one of oldest buildings in La Conner and home to the oldest Beech tree in Washington State, the atmosphere (they regularly feature local artists) and fresh ingredients make for an excellent dining experience.
Stop into the Lime Dock Building on the waterfront and hit up The Scone Lady Bakery for all manner of sweet and savory scones, cakes, pies, buns, homemade soups and more!
Where you can find the Scone Lady!
The La Conner Waterfront Café is, as advertised, located directly on the beautiful downtown waterfront. Dine outside or inside and enjoy a great home-style menu with lunch and dinner options.
For a great atmosphere in a cozy spot on the hill, check out The Oyster & Thistle Restaurant and Pub in historic downtown La Conner. Featuring local ingredients and a variety of fresh seafood, it’s a great place to spend a leisurely evening.
Located directly on the downtown waterfront, La Conner Sips offers wine tasting and small plates along with being a nice bottle shop. They also regularly feature live music. A great place to stop and enjoy a glass or two and take in the Swinomish Channel.
Tours of the Skagit Crest Vineyard & Winery in Sedro-Woolley are by appointment only, but you can sample their wines at their La Conner waterfront tasting room. I very much enjoy their 2016 Pinot Blanc. (Sat & Sun, 12-6pm)
The Skagit Cellars winery is located in Burlington, but their tasting room can be found at Seaport Landing in historic downtown La Conner. Enjoy wine tasting and small plates in this welcoming waterfront location. If you happen to be visiting the Chelan County area, they also have a tasting room in Manson.
Home of Skagit Cellars!
A day trip to La Conner is always a good idea. That said, a weekend adventure (or longer) is an even better idea! There are countless lodging options in the area and Airbnb and VRBO are great places to start. If you’d like to stay in the heart of historic downtown La Conner, head to one of these lovely spots for the quintessential La Conner experience:
For well-appointed rooms with gorgeous views of the Swinomish Channel, check in at the La Conner Channel Lodge, located directly on the waterfront in historic downtown. Relax with an in-house spa treatment and enjoy a meal at their sister restaurant found a short walk up the hill, The Oyster & Thistle.
Built in 1882, the early Victorian-style home known as Katy’s Inn B&B is a beautiful and well-preserved tribute to a quieter time in Skagit County. (And it’s still pretty quiet!) Featuring four main suites/rooms, Katy’s offers delicious breakfasts along with comfortable lodging and is in easy walking distance of the beautiful waterfront area.
Located in the heart of historic downtown is the sister lodge of the La Conner Channel Lodge, the La Conner Country Inn. A stay at the charming and cozy Country Inn will leave you feeling very relaxed and quite possibly wanting to book a few extra days in La Conner…
Looking down the waterfront towards the La Conner Channel Lodge
The La Conner Country Inn in historic downtown
A girl’s gotta eat, but there are many more ways to enjoy the La Conner area. Sampling all of the amazing dining options can certainly keep one busy, but in case you’d like to branch out and maybe get a little exercise and appreciate the local Arts, keep these possibilities in mind:
Nasty Jack’s Antiques in the historic downtown area is a great place to spend a bit of time. Not only do they have an eclectic and very cool selection of antiques and collectibles, they also have an original Zoltar machine out front. Channel your inner Tom Hanks and give Zoltar a go!
Find out what Zoltar has to say about your future! Maybe you want to be big?
Just some of the finds at Nasty Jacks Antiques
Old kiddie rides in front of Nasty Jacks
Nasty Jacks Antiques – what a great place!
Learn all about La Conner and Skagit County at the Skagit County Historical Museum, located in downtown La Conner. Nothing like a good museum to inform the day!
Located in the heart of historic downtown La Conner, stop by the Museum of NW Art for a very interesting and well-curated look at the beauty of Northwest artistry and visual storytelling.
Stop in and learn about beautiful NW art!
Come to the area in April for tulips, but get a jump on things with a visit to the amazing La Conner Daffodil Festival happening throughout March. In addition to glorious fields of daffodils, check out local Arts, food and more!
The Arts Alive event in November is an excellent way to enjoy the late fall beauty of the area and slip into the coziness of the colder months in La Conner. Arts, music, food – the whole downtown area gets involved! (Early November – keep an eye on the website for 2019 dates)
For a beautiful walk or relaxing picnic, head to Pioneer Park and take in the relaxing rhythm of the Swinomish Channel and its coastal living vibe.
If you’re a kayak enthusiast, grab your gear and paddle over to Hope Island Marine State Park. (Or take a motorboat! Note to self: Just one more reason I really need a boat…) Located between La Conner and Whidbey Island on Skagit Bay and accessible only by boat, it’s a beautiful place to escape the city hubbub and unwind at one of the four campsites. (Note: Part of the island is a nature preserve and guests are asked to stick to the marked trails.)
I’ll be back, La Conner. Soon!
I need a boat.
Heading over to the other side of Skagit County takes you east towards the beautiful North Cascades and Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest. A great way to start your exploration of the area is via the North Cascades Highway (SR-20) and the small town of Burlington.
With its location directly off I-5 and easy access to gas, coffee and quick-bites, Burlington is a popular mid-trip stop. Because of these conveniences, I haven’t spent much time in Burlington proper. Truth be told, outside of occasional visits to the Outlet Shoppes at Burlington or driving through on my way to the mountains, I haven’t taken time to enjoy the many charms of the tiny town. After now having more deeply explored the area, however, I will happily be visiting more often. (I am also happy to report triumphantly book-ending my Skagit County winnings while in Burlington. As the result of one of my ‘quick stops’ – this time at the Burlington Haggen’s grocery store – my beverage purchase also included an impromptu scratch ticket… Which yielded another fifty dollar win! There was now a hole burning through both of my pockets!)
The historic downtown core of Burlington is a great place to visit and even if you’re only driving through on your way up SR-20, it’s a fine place to grab a meal or a tasty pint. (And to spend fifty dollars!) Some of the places and events to enjoy on your next Burlington visit:
Fidalgo Bay Coffee Roasters makes a great cup of coffee! Based in Burlington with several locations in western Washington and a tasting room in downtown Seattle, they are an excellent way to fuel your Skagit County adventures.
Located in historic downtown Burlington, Café Burlington serves classic diner fare in a classic diner scene. They were already closed for the day when I stopped by, but I plan on trying their award-winning clam chowder next time I’m in the area.
Is it Burlington Cafe – or Cafe Burlington? At any rate, they have award-winning clam chowder!
The Chuckanut Brewery & Kitchen – South Nut location is an excellent place to grab a bite from one of the rotating food trucks or a pint of their delicious Kolsch on tap. (The North Nut is in Bellingham) Family friendly!
If you’re a lover of epic Bloody Marys and delicious brunch fare, head to the Trainwreck Bar & Grill in historic downtown Burlington. Try the brisket fritters! (Voted Best of Skagit 2019 – Best Brunch/Bloody Mary.
You can’t go wrong with their Bloody Mary!
Try the brisket fritters!
Beer is delicious. If you’d like to celebrate this fact, hit up the Skagit Farm to Pint Festival at the end of March and enjoy local breweries, restaurants and live music. (Takes place at the Heritage Flight Museum) It’s the wrap-up to the fabulous Skagit Beer Week, which you definitely don’t want to miss. (Last week of March)
Work off all that beer you drank during Skagit Beer Week at the annual Skagit Valley Tulip Run. (April 6th) And then drink some more beer to celebrate finishing the race! The circle of life. Hakuna Matata!
Make your way to the Burlington Visitor Center in historic downtown Burlington for the long-running Berry Dairy Days. (June 14-16) Local food, art, music, fireworks and more!
Head back to the Burlington Visitor Center in July for the weekly Burlington Summer Nights Concerts. (July 12,19,26) (Historical note: The visitor center is a replica of the original Burlington Great Northern Depot Train Station (c. 1890s)
A few words about the annual Harvest Festival and Pumpkin Pitch: They have atrebuchet. Need I say more?? Okay, fine. They also have food, pie-eating contests, ponies and more. TREBUCHET! (9/28)
Next up on my North Cascades Highway trek was the lovely Sedro-Woolley. There are several ways to hit up the Burlington and Sedro-Woolley areas and I took SR-20 off of I-5. The drive from Whatcom County and the north via SR-9 is a fine option and the drive south on SR-9 from Snohomish County is also a very scenic path to travel. The important take-away from all this is: Any way you take to get to Sedro-Woolley will be scenic and worth it.
Coming up from the South on SR-9 will give you access to many wonderful outdoor opportunities and a glimpse into the smaller communities of western Washington. In conjunction with these communities lie several great camping, hiking and fishing prospects along the way. Just a few of the areas to explore:
Easily accessible from both I-5 and SR-9, Lake McMurray is a great place to cast your rod and do a bit of trout fishing.
Just to the east of Lake McMurray, you’ll find Lake Cavanaugh. This small community loves their lake and regularly hosts local events in celebration. Check out their 35th Annual Fun Fest featuring an Arts and craft fair, golf tournament and more. (8/31 – 9/2, 2019) Check out one of the local cabins for rent on Airbnb or VRBO and bring your gear for a bit of fishing.
Heading further north on SR-9, stop in at the little town of Big Lake. Fuel up for your fishingexpedition with great food from the Big Lake Bar & Grill or stock up on groceries and delicious chicken & waffles or biscuits & gravy from the very cool Big Lake Grocery.
Just before SR-9 meets up with SR-20 in Sedro-Woolley, you’ll come to the small community of Clear Lake. Home to Clear Lake Beach Park with its fishing, picnicking and swimming opportunities, it’s a great place to spend a relaxing afternoon. Stop by Evelyn’s Tavern for a tasty meal after your day on the beach.
Whatever path you’ve followed to Sedro-Woolley, there are many excellent places to check out once you’ve arrived. The historic downtown core plays host to many events throughout the year and there are a plethora of great restaurants, bars and shops to enjoy while in the area. One of the more interestingly named towns in Washington, Sedro-Woolley was formed from a combination of rival small towns in the late 1800s and early 1900s. Pay a visit to the Sedro-Woolley Museum and learn more about the town’s unique history and ties to coal mining and railroad expansion.
Much to learn at the Sedro-Woolley Museum!
While visiting the Sedro-Woolley area, you’ll of course want to sample the local specialties. Just a few of the great options for your trip:
Situated in a tiny train caboose as you arrive in town, Skagit Valley Burger Express is an excellent place to stop for a burger. Made with grass-fed, naturally raised beef, their burgers are juicy and filling. Try the Brunch Burger with onion rings! (Voted Best of Skagit Valley 2019 – Burger)
Stop by the very cool local co-op, The Woolley Market and enjoy craft beer, wine and cider taps, live music and delicious deli food. Located in the heart of historic downtown.
Groceries, beer on tap, great sandwiches and more!
For the classic drive-in burger experience, head to Hal’s Drive-in in the historic downtown area. They’ve been grilling up classics since 1964 – that’s a pretty great track record!
Classic drive-in times at Hal’s!
Featuring a great pub menu and tasty beverages, the Iron Mountain Bar and Grill in the historic downtown area is a great place to stop in after a day of hiking or tooling around local-area roads.
Stop in the Iron Mountain Bar & Grill for great drinks and food!
If you’re looking for someplace for a date night, head to the lovely Liberty Bistro for great ambiance and delicious farm-to-table lunch and dinner. Located in historic downtown Sedro-Woolley.
Looking for a great place for date night? Check out the Liberty Bistro!
The Sedro-Woolley Farmers Market is a great way to get to know the local farmers and artists and sample their wares. Every Wednesday, 3-7pm from May 22nd thru October 16th at Hammer Heritage Square in downtown Sedro-Woolley.
Start planning for next year’s Sedro-Woolley Pub Crawl. A relatively new tradition in the downtown area, this year’s event was on May 11th. Keep an eye out – and a pint glass ready!
Make plans to check out the annual Blast from the Past festivities in early June. Food, events, live music and a Blast of Color 5k Run make for a great few days in downtown Sedro-Woolley. Each year they roll the way-back machine fifty years, with this year’s celebration featuring the esteemed year of 1969.
As you head further east towards the mountains, there are many places well worth visiting and many tasty treats to sample. My first stop out of Sedro-Woolley proper was the Eagle Haven Winery, tucked off beautiful country roads, in the heart of gorgeous farmlands. There really is so much to be said for pulling off the main thoroughfare and wandering through the backroads. You just never know who you’re going to meet and what you’re going to learn. (Pro tip: If you do decide to traipse off onto the backroads, be they through farmland, mountains or beyond, tell someone where you’re going. Especially if you’re a fan of solo adventuring like I am. Sporty Spice is pretty reliable and AAA is great, but you just never know…)
Beautiful scenery heading out of Sedro-Woolley on the North Cascades Highway (SR-20)
The impetus for pulling into the winery was a) it was a winery with good reviews and b) a roadside sign said they were hosting a vendor craft show that day. Wine and artisan crafts? I’m in! As I pulled into the winery parking area by the vineyards, I was met by a very friendly dog and one of the winery employees. She very kindly told me about the event and welcomed me into the tasting room. My visit was off to a very relaxing and easy going start.
There were a few people enjoying wine in the tasting room, but the majority of the crowds were in the vendor fair area. It seemed like a good time to take advantage of the tasting area, so I saddled up and dove into a bit of tasting. Sally, the well-informed and conversational tasting steward was very helpful and patiently assisted me in sampling all the wines that suited my personal tastes – and a few more. (I very much enjoyed their Gewürztraminer and Siegerrebe selections.) Through our conversation, I learned she was a transplant from Seattle and absolutely loved her new surroundings and the pace of life outside the city. In addition, she told me all about local farms and who to hit up for the best meats, coffee and more. It was another mini master class and I loved it! The unexpected connections and stories I pick up along the way are hands down one of the best things about traveling.
If you happen to be in the area, definitely stop in and do a tasting. On summer weekends, they also feature a concert series. Say hi to the dog, check out the hairy cows across the street and enjoy the beautiful grounds. There’s a reason they were voted Best of Skagit, 2019 – Winery! And if you’re in the market for delicious, organically raised meats, stop by nearby Baldham Farms and visit with Miriam.
I can neither confirm nor deny that I tried all of those wines…
A very enjoyable wine tasting experience, indeed!
Hairy cows – Across the street from the winery.
This apple wine was delicious!
Delicious wine offerings at Eagle Haven
A few more great places and areas to check out as you make your way east on SR-20 and the surrounding backroads:
Eggs, whole chicken, cuts of beef and delicious pork are what you’ll find if you stop by the Skagit River Ranch Farm Store. (Open Saturdays from 10am -5pm)
High on my NW bucket list is a stay at the Willowbrook Manor English Tea House & Chamomile Farm. Stay in the manor or check out their loft or amazing outdoor lodging option. I’m planning on a weekend stay in the near future with the addition of one of their ‘tea and tour’ adventures. High tea followed by a bike ride in the country – sign me up! One of the more intriguing options is a ride over to the nearby Northern State Ghost Town, located in the lost town of Cokedale. (On the National Register of Historic Places) Opened in 1912, Northern State Mental Hospital was the state’s largest facility for the mentally ill, but is now spookily abandoned. The buildings are closed to the public, but there are many trails to explore in what is now called the Northern State Recreation Area.
If 4-wheeled vehicles aren’t your jam, consider walking, biking or saddling your horse up for a trip on the Cascade Trail. A crushed rock trail, paralleling SR-20 for 22.5 miles, it goes from Sedro-Woolley all the way to Concrete. It follows the route of an abandoned railway from 1900!
Heading towards the North Cascades on SR-20
As I continued my adventure into the North Cascades on SR-20, I was feeling somewhat hungry. Being in the mountains was inspiring me to locate burgers and beer and I was happily assuaged on both counts in the tiny town of Birdsview. The incredibly cool yurt of the Birdsview Brewing Company welcomes you in with tasty craft beer and delicious pub-style food. They’re family friendly and were voted Best of Skagit 2019 – Best Destination on Hwy 20. (Closed Mondays, beer garden is +21) Just a little further down the road is the excellent, old school Birdsview Diner / Birdsview Burgers. I had the bacon mac-n-cheese burger with fries and FRY SAUCE – and a Birdsview Brewing Co. “Ditsy Blonde” beer. Delicious!! Next time I’m in the area, I plan on renting a cabin at Raser State Park – where I will be conveniently close to more mac-n-cheese burgers…
Step into the Birdsview Brewing Co. yurt for a cold one!
Very cool decor inside Birdsview Brewing Co. They serve pretty tasty beer, too!
Classic sign at Birdsview Burgers / Diner off of SR-20
Birdsview Burgers / Diner – A tiny spot off SR-20 with big tastes!
Great decor inside the Birdsview Burgers / Diner
Cement and saws!
This mac-n-cheese & bacon burger was out of this world!! (And that wasn’t Hellbent beer – it was the Ditsy Blonde from Birdsview Brewing Co.)
Continuing east on the stunning SR-20 will bring you to the small, but iconic town of Concrete. Known for its importance in the cement industry from the early 1900s to 1969, Concrete garnered more recent spotlight as the setting for award-winning author, Tobias Wolff’s novel This Boy’s Life, centered on his teen years in the area. It later became a film starring an amazing cast, including Robert De Niro, Leonardo DiCaprio and Ellen Barkin. The ‘Welcome to Concrete’ lettering seen on the famous cement silos as you enter town was actually added in 1992 for the film.
Welcome to Concrete, WA!
Concrete possesses several entries on the National Register of Historic Places and a visit to the Concrete Heritage Museum is a great place to learn more about the area. They also have a wonderful and very informative self-guided walking tour to help you explore the area. (Museum open Saturdays, noon – 4pm, May 25th – September 28th – 2019 season) Be sure to take a stroll across the Henry Thompson Bridge (c. 1918) and marvel at what at the time was the longest single-span concrete bridge in the world. The bridge was completely rehabilitated in the early 2000s and reopened in 2004. The view of the river and valley below is absolutely beautiful. After crossing the bridge, drive further up the road for great views of the Lower Baker Dam. (c. 1926) (Take a dam tour!) A drive still further north on Baker River Road will bring you to Lake Shannon and some excellent swimming, fishing and boating opportunities.
Take a stroll across the iconic Henry Thompson Bridge
Beautiful light fixtures on the 1918 bridge
Once the longest single-span concrete bridge in the world!
The beautiful Baker River flowing below the bridge
While taking time to explore the Concrete area, you’ll need to keep up your strength. There are several great restaurants in the area that will happily assist you on your quest – and several great places to check out after you’re properly fueled up:
Located directly off SR-20, Cascade Burgers serves up great burgers and more in a 50s drive-in style.
Local favorite, the Lonestar Restaurant & Waterin’ Hole is a good place to stop for home-style breakfast, lunch or dinner in the historic downtown area.
Serving tasty, dedicated gluten-free fare, the 5 B’s Bakery serves tasty baked goods along with breakfast and lunch. (7am – 5pm, closed Tuesdays)
For delicious, hand-crafted pizzas, sandwiches, salads and more, stop by Annie’s Pizza Station, located directly off SR-20. Family operated since 1994 and housed in a former gas station.
Perks Espresso & Deli offers great coffee, breakfast options and baked goods. Open daily from 5am to 2pm – directly off SR-20.
The Concrete Theatre has been an integral part of the Concrete community since 1923. Renovated and re-opened in 2009, they host first-run films as well as town events and are an important part of the annual Concrete Ghost Walk. ‘Lots of spooky ghost sightings over the years in Concrete! (October 5,12,19,26)
When I randomly pulled into a parking spot in front of the Baker Hotel, I was greeted by an employee of the hotel who was outside enjoying the sun. We ended up in a great conversation in which she told me all about the history of the town, the hotel (It’s haunted!) and gave me several excellent tips about what to see and do while in town. The locals always know best!
Downtown historic Concrete and the Concrete Theatre
The local waterin’ hole!
Stop in for coffee and a breakfast sandwich. Open early!
Minus a few of the cars, it looks like time has stood still in Concrete
Delicious pizzas at Annie’s
The Mt. Baker Hotel – it’s haunted!
Concrete offers many excellent ways to celebrate the town and all of its rich history and surrounding beauty. Some of the cool events happening throughout the year:
Taking place in downtown Concrete and the Concrete Municipal Airport (Mears Field), the Concrete Vintage Fly-in celebrates the history of flight with vintage airplanes and flying demonstrations. Food, music, vintage cars and more! (July 12-13)
Celebrate the history of the area with a parade, pie-eating contests, chainsaw carving and more at the Concrete Cascade Days. This annual event happens over the weekend of August 17-18 and is fun for the whole family.
Celebrating the amazing bald eagle, the Skagit Eagle Festival highlights all things raptor during the height of the eagle-watching season. Including the combined areas of Concrete, Rockport and Marblemount, it’s a great way to learn about these most majestic creatures. (Every weekend in January) On a related note, the Skagit River Bald Eagle Natural Area Preserve is an important part of the North Cascades area dedicated to studying and preserving the bald eagle habitat.
Celebrate the beauty of the area and pitch a tent at the nearby Sauk Park Campground and enjoy the beautiful Sauk River or check out one of the lovely hikes.
Should camping not be on your agenda, head to Ovenell’s Heritage Inn Log Cabins, Guesthouse & Historic Ranch off nearby Concrete Sauk Valley Road and relax in one of their fully-appointed log cabins, surrounded by a 580-acre cattle ranch and loads of farm animals and wildlife.
Just next door to the police station in historic downtown Concrete
Old buildings on the historic Concrete Byway
The scoop on the Henry Thompson Bridge and historic byway
The old Concrete Police Station in historic downtown Concrete
Continuing the drive on SR-20 brings you further into the striking landscapes of the North Cascades territory. The towns get smaller and the opportunities for gas and food become more sparse. It’s always a good idea to take advantage of stops whenever they come available – especially in the colder months.
There are countless outdoor pursuits to be found along SR-20 as you head east towards the tiny communities of Rockport and Marblemount. Just a few of the very worthy options:
Put together a picnic and head for Rockport State Park, just off of SR-20. They don’t allow camping, but the beautiful old-growth trees and lovely hiking trails more than make up for it. Check out the nearby Sauk Mountain Trail when in the area and revel in the glorious views, flora and fauna. A great way to reach these areas from the Darrington area is via SR-530 – a beautiful drive!
Sigh… Tall trees!
Lush moss in the trees of Rockport State Park
Bizarre bulbous root growth at Rockport State Park
The tall trees of Rockport State Park
Between May and October, stop by the Cascadian Farm Home Farm or their roadside stand on SR-20 and enjoy delicious organic produce, dairy treats and more. Cascadian Farms has cultivated a well-respected and hugely successful line of products over the years. Stop by the farm and see where it all started!
Enjoy some delicious organic ice cream in the sun!
Ridiculously charming – AND delicious! Directly off SR-20
Beautiful scenery!
Take a break and relax in the garden!
Gorgeous!
Pull off along the beautiful Sauk River at the Sutter Creek Rest Area and enjoy the quiet peace of the Skagit River. The surrounding mountains and farmland are stunning and I truly think I could’ve sat there all day taking it in… And be sure to keep an eye out for bald eagles! That’s right, be an eagle eye. Heh.
To extend your stay along the Skagit River, pitch a tent or roll in with the RV to Howard Miller Steelhead State Park. Open year-round, they have many campsites and provide great access to fishing, hiking and more. Be sure to visit the non-profit Bald Eagle Interpretive Center and learn more about the area’s most revered residents, bald eagles and salmon. (Open weekends from the first weekend of December to the last weekend of January, 10am – 4pm)
Eagle sighting at Sutter Creek rest area
The beautiful Skagit River
I could’ve hung out here all day.
Take a break on the banks of the Skagit River
Amazing views from the Sutter Creek rest area
Rounding out the Skagit County adventures along SR-20 brings us to the entrance of North Cascades National Park and neighboring Whatcom County. For this portion of the trip, I was joined by one of my very dearest friends – and her entire family! In addition to cruising the SR-20 corridor, we took a cruise on spectacular Diablo Lake and did a bit of exploring in the North Cascades National Park. (Goofy Sasquatch hoodies may also have been purchased.) Many of these adventures and more will be covered in my upcoming Whatcom County adventure. Stay tuned!
In the meantime, before continuing on towards Whatcom County and eastern Washington or turning back to the western parts, consider these scenic options:
The Hidden Lake Peak Lookout (On the National Historic Register) and trail offer beautiful views overlooking the North Cascades and Glacier Peak Wilderness. If you plan on camping in the backcountry, you’ll need a permit, but no permit is needed for staying in the lookout. (First come, first serve to stay in the lookout.)
If you can’t decide between awesome American diner fare and excellent Korean dishes, you won’t have to at Mondo’s Restaurant off of SR-20 in the Marblemount area. Great food, quirky décor and good service!
Located on SR-20, just before you enter North Cascades National Park, the Buffalo Run Inn (c. 1889) offers rustic dining featuring bison, beef and elk and cozy lodging to the weary traveler.
While technically across the border in Whatcom County, an important part of the SR-20 adventure and very worth mentioning is the spectacular North Cascades National Park and the informative Visitor and Information Center. Taking in the beauty of the park is the crowning achievement of any North Cascades Highway trek – don’t forget your camera! And be sure to stroll along the fully accessible Sterling Munro Trail to check out the stunning Picket Range and the mind-boggling Chopping Block. Gorgeous!
Make time to stop in at the very informative North Cascades Visitor Center!
Great interpretive displays!
Don’t touch – or point your finger – at that bear!
Looking out at the glorious Picket Range
That’s A LOT of woodpeckers!
Don’t miss the Sterling Munro trail to the Picket Range lookout!
A close-up of the Picket Range and amazing Chopping Block
The hiking, camping and fishing is near limitless in and around the park. For notable camping, check out Goodell Creek Campground, found on the banks of the Skagit River near Marblemount, Marble Creek Campground on the Cascade River near Marblemount as well as nearby Mineral Park Campground, just a little further up the road. For great backcountry camping and hiking near Marblemount, head to the Cascade Pass and Sahale Arm trail (You’ll need a permit for backcountry camping.)
Following the Skoczen caravan into the wilds!
Echoes of past fires in the North Cascades
That’s a lot of rock to move! (Side note: Beth didn’t honk the horn when we drove through. I’m still sad.)
And with my trek deep into the heart of the North Cascades and SR-20 coming to a close, I will leave you to dream of your own Skagit County adventure. You’ll definitely need more than a day to explore its rich offerings, but I can assure you, it will be one of the most amazing Washington State adventures you’ve ever taken. Islands, mountains, epic fields of flowers and bountiful farmlands stocked with delicious foods and welcoming residents – what’s not to love about Skagit County? Who knows, maybe I’ll see you tiptoeing through the tulips come next April!
Cheers!
The St. Martin-St. Francis Episcopal Church near the Sutter Creek rest area
Serene scenes from the North Cascades Highway
Scenes from SR-20 – Bygone days…
Celebrate the Skagit County good times with my SPOTIFY PLAYLIST!
Good Day Sunshine – The Beatles (from Revolver)
Proud Mary – Tina Turner (from What’s Love Got To Do With It)
Gettin’ in the Way – Jill Scott (from Experience: Jill Scott 826+)
You Are Not Alone – Mavis Staples (from You Are Not Alone)
Flowers – Leon Bridges (from Coming Home)
Golden – Jill Scott (from Beautifully Human: Words and Sounds Vol. 2)
We Don’t Need Another Hero (Thunderdome) (from Simply the Best)
Piano in the Dark – Brenda Russell (from Get Here)
So In Love – feat. Anthony Hamilton – Jill Scott, Anthony Hamilton (from The Light of the Sun)
Light Is Dim – Hommage aux Frères Pigeon – Spöket i Köket (from Château du Garage)
Tip Toe Through the Tulips with Me – The McGuire Sisters (from The McGuire Sisters Anthology)
Flowers on the Wall – The Statler Brothers (from Flowers on the Wall)
God Only Knows – She & Him (from God Only Knows)
I Want You Back – Lake Street Dive (from Fun Machine)
Calico Skies – Paul McCartney (from Flaming Pie)
My Secret Place – Joni Mitchell, Peter Gabriel (from Chalk Marks In A Rain Storm)
Cactus Tree – Hailey Tuck (from Junk)
Le Jardin des Fées – Paolo Fresu, Richard Galliano, Jan Lundgren (from Mare Nostrum III)
Old Cape Cod – Patti Page (from Patti Page: 16 Most Requested Songs)
Sunshine on My Shoulders – John Denver (from Poems, Prayers & Promises)
You’ve Got A Friend – James Taylor (from Mud Slide Slim)
Rainbow Connection – The Muppets (from The Muppets: Original Soundtrack)
Here Comes the Sun – The Beatles (from Abbey Road)
Pick Yourself Up – Dianne Reeves (from Good Night, Good Luck: Music from & Inspired by the Motion Picture)
This Is Your Night – The Flat Five (from It’s A World of Love and Hope)
Baby I’m A Star – Prince and the Revolution (from Purple Rain)
Bad Bad News – Leon Bridges (from Good Thing)
Star Wars (Main Theme) – John Williams, London Symphony Orchestra (from The Empire Strikes Back: Original Motion Picture Soundtrack)
You’re the Best – Joe “Bean” Esposito (from The Karate Kid: Original Motion Picture Soundtrack)
I Ate the State 