I Ate the State – Spokane County

Downtown Spokane as seen from Edwidge Woldson Park

I spent my formative years in the eastern part of Washington. Specifically, in the dry, desert climes of Pasco, which is part of the Tri-Cities. A very key route in and out of the Tri-Cities is US-395, which is where my most recent adventure to Spokane County begins. Come along as I journey through this big-sky part of the state.

Sure, there are areas of western Washington with big, stretching skies, but there’s nothing like coming over Snoqualmie Pass on I-90 and descending into the Ellensburg area. The sky opens up, the mountains fall behind you, and you realize you need to turn on the AC or heat, depending on the season. There is definitely not as much rain on this side of the Cascades.

For this trip, I took I-90 over Snoqualmie Pass and made my way towards the Tri-Cities via I-82 and I-182. Once in Pasco, I met up with my dear friend, Kerri, and we headed out on US-395 to I-90 at Ritzville and on towards Spokane. I hadn’t been to Spokane in a while and Kerri had spent several years living in the area. It’s always nice to have an area expert on board – AND a longtime friend. Adventures were afoot! (or in a car)

  • Pro Tip: Always check the WSDOT for pass reports and road status regardless of time of year. If it’s not a snowstorm in the winter, it might be long delays for roadwork in the summer. Rock blasting anyone?!

There are also many other ways to get to Spokane County, depending on your starting point. You’ve got your US Route 2, which goes all the way to the UP in Michigan, and the stunning North Cascade Hwy SR-20 in Okanogan County to US-395 near Barney’s Junction. If you’re coming from Canada, it’s a 2.5 hour drive from Grand Forks, BC to Spokane on US-395. Idaho, you say? It’s a quick hop across the border on I-90 from Post Falls or nearby Coeur d’Alene. So many ways to get to Spokane!

  • Hot Tip: Want to earn some local cred? It’s pronounced Spo-CAN, not Spo-cane. For an excellent primer on Spokane, be sure to listen to the song Spokane’s Not Dumb. (Also included in my playlist at the end of the article) It’s one of the best songs about Spokane EVER.

I have many fond, and some not-so-fond memories, of US-395 and the drive towards Spokane. My first tax-paying job came at age 14, picking up litter with the WSDOT Ecology Youth Crew. We spent a lot of time alongside US-395 picking up copious amounts of trash. Throw in rattlesnakes, truckers honking their horns, questionable/unmentionable discarded items, having to wear a hardhat, gloves, and boots in +100 degree heat… FUN! I rocked that job for 4 seasons before moving to the glamorous world of fast food. I even wrote a song called Litter Bug Blues during my litter crew tenure. Perhaps one of these days I’ll get around to recording it… Maybe for the road trip album I’m planning for my I Ate the State project… (You’re welcome.)

Looking at the pictures above, you may see stretches of… a whole lotta nothing… of wide open, rolling brown browniness… While that can certainly be the case, especially during the hot months, there is much beauty to be found in all of that open space. I’ll admit to ignoring much of it when I was younger, preferring the green of the western side of the state. However, visiting as an adult and finally taking the time to really explore the open areas, I’m struck with just how much beauty, diversity, history, and adventure exist around every corner.

Once such area to be found off the concrete swath of US-395 is the 130-mile Columbia Plateau Trail State Park. If you’re headed east on I-90, take Exit 245 at the town of Sprague. Follow along SR-23 to Sprague Hwy Road E to Williams Lake Road, which then becomes E Williams Lake Road. The trail actually starts in Spokane and ends near Pasco with many points of entrance along the way, but this entrance provided a nice distraction from the freeway. (Discover Pass required in park.)

Following the quiet backcountry roads, we wound our way down to the scenic Downs Lake area. Along the way, there were areas to join the trail and take off on horseback, should you have the four-legged means. The examples of flora and fauna along the way are beautiful, with desert flowers, grazing cows, and interesting rock formations dotting the landscape.

When we arrived at the lake, we were greeted with lovely views of mountain ridges and lakefront access. I’ll cover more of the area in my upcoming Lincoln County article, but it certainly was a nice to take a break from the concrete and enjoy some of the solitude of this part of the state.

After spending some more time on I-90, we came upon our destination of Spokane County and its namesake, the city of Spokane. Named after the Native American Spokane People, it serves as the county seat and largest city in the county as well as largest city east of the Cascades. Spokane is indeed quite a sight after the long, browniness drive. Both Yakima and the Tri-Cities are good-sized areas, but Spokane holds the crown in the eastern part of the state for city-style living. It had been a while since I’d visited Spokane and I was looking forward to a new adventure and checking out how its grown in recent decades.

Home to the Spokane Tribe of Indians for millennia, the Spokane area has been instrumental as a place of trade and passage in this part of the country. With the establishment of a North West Company depot in the early 1800s, trade was opened up from the Inland Northwest to Canada. The area was brought to further prominence with the addition of rail expansion in the latter 1800s. This brought Westward expansion and an influx of European immigrants to the area, which spurred further development in the area, including logging and mining. The city was officially incorporated as Spokane Falls in 1881, and ten years later as simply Spokane.

In more modern times, Spokane has continued to play an important part in America’s development and traditions. Did you know Father’s Day was founded in the Spokane area? True story! Local resident, Sonora Smart Dodd was the creator of the holiday with the first Father’s Day celebrated on June 19, 1910, in Spokane. The holiday didn’t become nationally recognized until 1966 when President Lyndon Johnson signed a presidential proclamation, followed by President Richard Nixon making it official in 1972. Father’s Day has fallen on the third Sunday of June every year since.

Important note: While not as nationally significant as Father’s Day, the Spokane area was also host to the Uncle Dan’s ranch dressing operation for many decades. (It actually started in Yakima, my home town, in 1966. I am genetically predisposed to crave ranch dressing. That’s just science.) Now also an American tradition, ranch dressing can be slathered over most foods. Veggies, meats, pastas… cookies… (I once ate chocolate cookies dipped in Uncle Dan’s on a dare. Not horrible.) They are now located in nearby Hayden, Idaho, but will always be from Yakima and Spokane in my heart and belly. Hidden Valley Ranch is fine, but The Dan is much better. Fight me.

Heading into the downtown Spokane area after spending a couple of hours in the brown surrounds of I-90 is quite an adjustment. Tall buildings, interesting architecture, hotels, restaurants, theatres, bridges – all the city things are on display! Kerri and I had decided to splurge on our hotel, so we took an exit which would bring us directly into the heart of the city.

I’d visited the Historic Davenport Hotel on past trips but had never stayed there. It was always a little too rich for my artist funds. Fast-forward to actually having a savings account, and a good friend along for the adventure, we decided to split the costs and live it up. Treat yourself!

After parking and emerging into the hotel lobby, we were greeted with a warmth and grandeur rarely experienced in modern hotels. There was much history here, and you could feel it. Times-past lived on in this place and it felt like being immersed in a living story. It was hard to get through the check-in process, albeit short, as I immediately wanted to start exploring!

Built in 1914, the Davenport has played an important role in Spokane’s history and as part of the National Registry of Historic Places, has a wealth of history to share. From grand celebrations to visiting dignitaries, the hotel has charmed guests throughout most of the twentieth century. After falling into decline, it was closed in 1985 and barely avoided demolition. Lovingly and painstakingly being restored to its former glory, it reopened in 2002 to great fanfare. Even if you’re just stopping in to grab a cup of coffee in the hotel lobby, the Davenport is well worth a visit. (Although, in the spirit of treating oneself, I’d recommend a leisurely weekend or at least a summer cocktail on the Roof Garden Terrace.) Located in the heart of the downtown Davenport Arts and Entertainment District, it’s an excellent base for your artistic explorations.

Walking through the halls and peeking into the beautiful ballrooms is akin to being in an interactive museum. Just wandering around showcases Spokane’s history and provides a trip abroad via the hotel’s lavish Renaissance and Spanish Revivals stylings. The ballrooms transport you back in time and the architectural detail and design are stunning. I clearly should’ve packed a gown rather than my standard NW adventure attire. Next visit!

If you happen to be feeling peckish, the hotel offers delicious dining opportunities. Check out the appropriately named Peacock Room Lounge for a classic cocktail and meal. It’s said the delicious Crab Louie salad was possibly invented at the Davenport in its early days – and is on the menu to this day. (Named after the original proprietor of the hotel and local businessman, Louis Davenport.) There’s also the grand Palm Court Grill for a lovely breakfast, lunch, or dinner, easily accessed on the main floor of the hotel. They even do afternoon tea! Should you simply be looking for a good cup of coffee and a pastry, head to the Emporium, located in the lobby area.

While I’m fairly certain the Davenport will remain at the top of my list for future Spokane visits, there are indeed other hotels to check out in the downtown area. In addition to the Davenport, Marriot Bonvoy also now operates the Davenport Lusso, the Davenport Tower, and the Davenport Grand. On my next visit, I plan to head to the Davenport Grand to check out the steaks at Table 13. (Open for dinner only)

In addition to the Davenport/Marriott affiliated hotels, there are many other great options in the downtown area. A few places to consider on your next visit to Spokane:

Note: The Davenport Lusso is temporarily closed for renovations and will reopen in February 2025.

While getting settled into the area around the Davenport, we checked out a few nearby spots. I’ll formerly cover restaurants later in the adventure, but some of our initial discovery might’ve required… treats. We’d planned on driving around the downtown area and randomly seeing what we could see, but you can’t just jump in without the proper fuel. Honestly.

A stop at Bruttles Gourmet Candy Shoppe should be considered a must on any Spokane visit. Their famous Soft Peanut Butter Brittle candy is DELICIOUS and I could eat it every day. Another must on any visit to Spokane is the Spokandy Chocolatier shop. Their Pastel Mints are amazing and should generally be kept away from me. That said, I recently found them at a very cool candy shop in Bothell, the Sugar Rush Candy Store. DANGER. And should you maybe want some fuel for the mind, don’t miss Spokane’s sprawling literary staple, Auntie’s Bookstore.

All fueled up with treats, we jumped in the car and pointed our wheels in no particular direction. Whenever visiting a new town, I always love to just drive or generally wander around with no agenda. Or map. Every once in a while, I’ll bust out the GPS to reorient myself, but I’ve found wandering about is usually a great way to happen upon amazing sights. And remember, not all those who wander are lost…

Some of the interesting spots we happened upon during our maiden voyage in downtown Spokane:

As we continued our wanderings, we found ourselves rambling through some of Spokane’s oldest and most stately neighborhoods. I’d played a few shows in Spokane over the years and on a couple of occasions stayed with some very gracious hosts in these neighborhoods. I have very fond memories of the grand vistas and well-established, tree-lined streets.

Containing many homes on the National Registry of Historic Places, the Brown’s Addition neighborhood is Spokane’s oldest. Featuring many grand homes and mansions built in the early 1900s, this part of town was also home to the Spokane People for millennia prior. While driving around the neighborhoods, it was easy to get caught up in another era.

During our wandering, Kerri steered us towards a beautiful spot in the nearby Marycliff-Cliff Park Historic District. Filled with more stately locales, it’s a great place for a larger view of Spokane. Looking out over the downtown core from Cliff Park and Cliff Drive was an excellent way to check out the scene. We also drove by Edwidge Woldson Park which features a fantastic view, rugged basalt fissures, and lovely Ponderosa pines. On my next visit to the park, I plan to check out the Tiger Trail as well as the Moore-Turner Heritage Gardens. (Built between 1889 and 1932.)

Next up on our agenda was to check out the childhood home of famous entertainer, Bing Crosby. Before entertaining the world, he spent his formative years in Spokane. Born in 1903 in Tacoma, his family moved to the Spokane area in 1906. During this time he and his family lived in the area of Gonzaga University and the University District. In his teen years, Bing Crosby attended the university before eventually leaving in 1925 for Los Angeles and worldwide stardom.

Founded in 1887, the beautiful Gonzaga campus features not only the Crosby home, which is now a museum, but also the Jundt Art Museum and Myrtle Woldson Performing Arts Center. Whether you’re a student, a lover of the Arts, or simply on a random drive around town, the Gonzaga campus is definitely worth a visit.

One of the most prominent and vital areas of downtown Spokane is the beloved Riverfront Park. Set alongside the scenic Spokane River and Spokane Falls it is a must-visit part of downtown. Serving as an integral part of the area for hundreds of years, the area was a popular tribal fishing area and continues to remain an important part of Native American life. In the late 1800s and into the mid-1900s, the area was known as Havermale Island and supported much business and industry, including railways, rail depots, and more.

Festooned by sturdy basalt rock, the area supports two dams and is home to the country’s largest urban waterfall. The island in the center of the river, known as Snxw Island (Salish for “salmon people” and named by the Spokane Tribe ) is an important and beautiful core to the river scene. A visit to the island is a great way to learn more of local history and take in the natural beauty of the area.

By the 1960s, city leaders were looking for a way to revitalize the Havermale Island area. The city successfully put in a bid to host the World’s Fair and plans were underway. As the smallest city to host a World’s Fair, there was much work to do and planning to perfect. Much of Havermale Island was razed and construction for the first environmentally-themed World’s Fair, Expo ’74 took shape. As part of the agreement to hosting an environmentally-themed fair, it was planned to create a park out of the area after the fair’s end. Today’s Riverfront Park is the happy result of this provision.

The now iconic Spokane Pavilion at the Riverfront was a featured part of the fair. It was a gift to Spokane from the federal government and served as the US Federal Pavillion during the fair. It maintains its importance to the downtown area to this day and hosts many events as well as the ongoing Pavilion Light Show on weekends.

The Clock Tower and ’74 Expo Pavilion at Riverfront Park

With pedestrian bridges joining the north and south parts of the park, the area is incredibly accessible and filled with many sightseeing and adventure-filled opportunities. If you’re driving, the Post Street Bridge & Monroe Street Bridge (c. 1911 and on National Registry of Historic Places) provide access to and around the park. Should you be in search of a more adventurous journey to the park, check out the 64-mile Centennial Trail. This two-state trail visits Nine Mile Falls, Riverside Park, Liberty Lake, and Spokane Valley, extending 24-miles into Idaho, via Post Falls and Coeur d’Alene.

Playing host to much of the city’s festival and events scene, the park is central in both location and in the heart of Spokane. There’s something to do and see any day of the year. For your next Spokane visit, consider some of these Riverfront Park highlights:

  • The Spokane Lilac Festival takes place on the second Saturday of May, culminating on the third Saturday with a giant parade. This festival is an important occasion in Spokane and features many events, including a brewfest. (May 10-17, 2025)
  • Feel like stretching your legs? Leading up to the Lilac Festival, the Bloomsday run is an annual 12k race which stretches throughout Spokane. (May 4th, 2025) 
  • Running during the summer and early fall months, celebrate all things the Bard at the popular Shakespeare in the Park.
  • Hit up the Pig Out in the Park festival over Labor Day for great music, food, beer gardens, and public market booths. Running since 1979, this multi-day free festival is an excellent way to head into fall.
  • I’m a sucker for a carousel and the beautiful Looff Carousel is one of my favorites. Growing up, friends would tell me of their weekend Spokane trips and grabbing the ring on the carousel. I was always envious and SO excited when I finally got the opportunity to take a ride. Giddy up! (On the National Registry of Historic Places)
  • Take a lovely walk throughout the park and enjoy a bit of artwork on the scenic Sculpture Walk. Along the way, do NOT miss the very awesome Garbage Goat. Designed for Expo ’74 by local artist Sister Paula Mary Turnbull, known as the Welding Nun, it eats garbage via a button press/vacuum mechanism. It even has its own Facebook page. I love the Garbage Goat!
  • I’m a big fan of gondolas as it usually means I’m on a ski hill. You don’t, however, have to don skis to enjoy the Numerica Skyride Gondola. Get on board and enjoy a beautiful ride over the Spokane River, Spokane Falls, and under the Monroe Street Bridge.
  • Bring your skates or grab a rental pair and check out the Numerica Skate Ribbon. The rink features roller-skating, roller-blading, and skateboarding in the warm months and ice-skating in the winter. They also have firepits to accompany all of your hot chocolate needs.
  • The Great Northern Clocktower was almost torn down in 1974 as part of the Expo planning, but was thankfully saved. It was part of the Great Northern Railway Depot, which was demolished in 1972 as part of the Expo work. It stands as a soaring tribute to Spokane’s industrial history.
  • While not technically part of Riverfront Park, don’t miss Huntington Park for a beautiful view of Lower Spokane Falls. (Walk down the stairs underneath the Gondola.) Along the way, check out the historic Post Street Electric Substation (Washington Water Power building, c. 1910 – on the National Registry of Historic Places) If you’re looking for a little Science and discovery, stop by the Mobius Discovery Center during your explorations.

In addition to Riverfront Park, there are many other options for entertainment in the downtown Spokane area. Live music, theatre, museums, and much more can be found throughout the city. A few options to further your love of the Arts:

  • Included on the National Registry of Historic Places, the Art Deco Fox Theater has been an artistic core of the Spokane community since 1931. Fully and beautifully restored in 2007, the theatre features an ongoing roster of performances and is the home of the Spokane Symphony orchestra.
  • Originally known as The Clemmer and an important force in the development of American cinema, the Bing Crosby Theatre is a Spokane classic. Having been fully restored in 1988, it now supports all manner of performance and the Arts. (c. 1915 and on the National Registry of Historic Places)
  • You can find the Spokane Jazz Orchestra performing at the Bing Crosby Theatre throughout the year. Featuring local, northwest, and national artists, the SJO is a driving force in bringing all things Jazz to the Spokane area.
  • Many stellar bands have performed at New York City’s popular NW satellite, the Knitting Factory. Regularly featuring music and dance parties, the venue is one of the top venues in the area. Dining and drinks are available at their District Bar.
  • Should you be looking for a bit of fine arts action, head to the Northwest Museum of Arts & Culture, located in the Browne’s Addition neighborhood. Founded in 1916 and an affiliate of the Smithsonian, this well-curated museum is a great place to enjoy the NW art scene and more.
  • Maybe you want your Spokane Arts experience to be more participatory? Stop by The Ridler Piano Bar & Music House in downtown for a fun night out. Featuring dueling pianos along with drinks and small plates, join in and leave your worries on the doorstep.
  • If you happen to be feeling lucky, head about 15 minutes west of downtown to the West Plains area and hit up the Northern Quest Resort & Casino or the Spokane Tribe Resort & Casino. Big bucks, no whammies!

Spokane has a large number of tasty restaurants from which to choose. Whether you’re downtown, up on hill, or in a suburban area, Spokane has you covered. Other than my youthful dining experiences and some hazy, late-night affairs when in town to play shows, I haven’t been able to really investigate or enjoy Spokane’s restaurant scene. To say I was happy to be in town with the express purpose of checking out the city and eating good food, is definitely an understatement.

My 12-year old self fondly remembers the quirky C.I. Shenanigans as the height of Spokane dining, but since it abruptly closed in 2012, I was unable to relive my childhood glory. (I call shenanigans!) Thankfully, The Old Spaghetti Factory is still holding down the fort of my childhood favorites and is located in the downtown area for all your pasta needs. While maybe not the height of Italian fine dining, it’s got a quirky charm about it. And I’ll always be a sucker for their brown butter and mizithra pasta. (I still mourn the loss of the Seattle Spaghetti Factory location.)

Another favorite of my earlier days is the classic Clinkerdagger. I remember when this restaurant came to the Tri-Cities with much fanfare. It used to be known as Clinkerdagger, Bickerstaff, and Petts and I recall a local radio station running a contest to see how many times – or how fast? – you could say the name. If you were fancy in the Tri-Cities, that’s where you went, especially if you were on a date. It’s also where my obsessive love of crème brulee began. Fast-forward a few decades, it’s no longer in the Tri-Cities, but can still be found in its original location in Spokane. Crème brulee for all! (or as it’s known on the Clinkerdagger’s menu, burnt cream.)

Clinkerdagger is located in the historic Flour Mill building (c. 1895), which hosts many shops and businesses and is worth a visit in and of itself. Relatedly, be sure to check out the Wonders of the World shop. It reminds me of the original, pre-fire Ye Olde Curiosity Shop on the Seattle Waterfront and is filled with quirky treasures. (Anyone in need of a 50,000 year-old cave bear skeleton?)

Clinkerdagger’s is also filled with quirky wonder and features an Old English themed décor. The classic dishes compliment the classic décor and there’s something tasty for everyone. This beloved eatery also features an outdoor patio and an appropriately darkened bar area. Try the BURNT CREAM. (Okay, fine. The rest of the menu is pretty tasty as well.)

Alrighty. I’ve covered some of the hot spots of my formative years. As my tastes have continued to broaden over the years, here are a few more restaurants to add to the list:

  • Also taking advantage of the river scene, the Osprey Restaurant & Bar is located next to Gonzaga University and features breakfast, lunch, dinner, AND BBQ. Does the menu also say crème brulee? Yes. Yes, it does! Additionally, they also feature a dinner and show series in conjunction with the Myrtle Woldson Performing Arts Center next door.
  • This northwest classic showcases all things seafood and a great view of the falls. Head to Anthony’s at Spokane Falls for tasty meal and don’t forget to try their… BURNT CREAM! (It’s a theme!) I’m also pretty fond of their chowder and their “3-course dinner” option.
  • I haven’t been able to visit Luna yet, but it’s high on my list for my next Spokane adventure. The dinner menu looks fantastic and highlights local ingredients and seasonal menus. They also have a “Forty-dollar Martini” on the menu. While my wallet might not be intrigued, I am… (Shut up, Dayna’s wallet – It comes with accoutrements!)
  • Also on my list for next visit is the modern French restaurant, Francaise. I’m always on the lookout for a good Croque Madame or Duck à l’Orange and both are on their menu. Along with… Crème Brulee!! I’ll be stopping by… Located in the Perry District of the South Hill area.
  • Also located in the Perry District, The Shop serves great coffee, baked goods, fancy cakes, local craft items, and more! Back in the hazy part of my memory bank, I remember visiting The Shop while in town to play a show. The fact I can remember any of it is probably largely due to their great coffee…  
  • Not only do they have unicorn in their name, the Gilded Unicorn has a TATOR TOT CASSEROLE. And deviled eggs! And while they don’t have crème brulee, they do have chocolate lava cake, so Imma let it slide. And they love unicorns! Open for happy hour and dinner every day.
  • Should you want to enjoy a beer and cuddle a puppy, stop in at Bark – A Rescue Pub and enjoy the love. Not only do they have a great tap list and pub food menu, they partner with the Spokane Humane Society to help find homes for rescue dogs and cats. (Note: The dogs and cats live in a separate but accessible area and can be visited before, during, and after your visit.) Open daily for lunch and dinner with brunch on the weekends.
  • If you happen to be looking specifically for tasty breakfast and brunch spots, there are several great options to choose from in the area. Don’t miss a visit to Washington’s oldest dining car restaurant, Frank’s Diner. (c. 1906) The original location is downtown, but they can also be found in North Spokane. Molly’s Family Restaurant comes highly recommended by Kerri and her family. Bringing classic diner fare to the table, this popular local spot can be found downtown, not too far from the Steam Plant. Also close to the Steam Plant, the charming Rosie’s Restaurant features breakfast classics and more.

Another classic in the area is Zip’s Drive-in. Located in several Spokane-area spots as well as Idaho, this delicious institution was founded by Robert “Zip” Zuber in Kennewick in 1953. (Tri-Cities represent!) Interestingly, this was the same year McDonald’s opened in California. However, they’re both beat out by In-N-Out which opened in 1948 in California. Old-school burger credit where old-school burger credit is due. (Special message to In-N-Out: I hear you’re finally coming to Portland. This is great, but please come to Seattle. Thank you. Special message to Zip’s: No disrespect. You will always have my heart. Also, please come to the west side of the state.)

My first job in the food industry was at 15, directly after my tenure ended with the litter crew. As mentioned above, the first location was – and still is – in Kennewick by the Cable Bridge. I chose, however, to work in the action-packed location by the area mall, the Columbia Center. (aka: The Center.) I have many incredibly fond memories of my mom and I taking on a hard day of bargain-shopping at the mall and wrapping it up with some tasty burgers and a tub of extra-crispy fries at Zip’s… Ahhhh, such good memories…

I can’t tell you how many of said “tubs” of extra-crispy fries with tartar sauce I’ve eaten, but I know it’s a large number. Throw in a Papa Joe or Belly Buster, and one of their handmade shakes, and you’re in business. I do, however, much lament the fact their Dog-Gonner no longer appears to be on the menu. A cheeseburger with two halved/grilled hot dogs, and toppings… DIVINE. Although, since Zip’s isn’t a franchise, each location does have some menu variations. I’m holding out hope that at least one of the locations still has this delicious concoction on their menu. A girl can dream. And you know how much I love hotdogs. (IMPORTANT UPDATE: The Zip’s located in Ritzville has the Dog-Gonner on the menu. SCORE!!)

Sunny days, outdoor dining, river and lake scenes, an arid climate… What are things that compliment wineries, breweries, and a great restaurant scene? Spokane easily answers the question and has no shortage of dining and top-shelf adult beverage opportunities. Whether you’re interested in wine tasting, a robust brew pub scene, or a distillery, Spokane has your back.

Feel like celebrating the amazing northwest wine scene? Consider one – or several – of these great tasting rooms on your next visit:

  • Located in the Kendall Yards area of Spokane, the Maryhill Winery & Tasting Room features a great view of the river and downtown along with some award-winning wines and tasty small-plates. I’m particularly fond of their Grenache and Chenin Blanc wines. And if you happen to be visiting Maryhill Winery during mid-May through late-September, be sure to stop in at the Kendall Yards Night Market (5pm – 8pm, seasonally) If you’re interested in visiting the actual vineyards, head to Goldendale and the Klickitat County area and enjoy some quality time on the Columbia River.
  • The vineyards and winery are located in Benton City, but Terra Blanca also has a lovely tasting room in downtown Spokane. Featuring varietals from the famous Red Mountain AVA, everything I’ve tried from this winery has been fantastic. Located in the historic Chronicle Building.
  • The main winery operation for Barrister Winery can be found in a beautifully restored building in the downtown area. (c. 1908 – on the National Register of Historic Places) They also have a tasting room located across from the Davenport Hotel, next to Auntie’s Bookstore. In addition to wine, they also feature live music on Wednesdays and Fridays throughout the year, as well a gallery showcasing local artists.
  • Located in the East Downtown Historic District, the boutique winery Robert Karl Cellars features several award-winning wines created with Washington state varietals. I’m a fan of their Claret and Sauvignon Blanc wines.
  • Located just over from the Fox Theatre in downtown, Helix Wines features wines made with PNW varietals. They are related to Walla Walla’s Reininger winery and also have a tasting room in the Walla Walla area.

In the mood for a cold frosty one? Maybe looking to do a pub crawl? No problem! Check out these options:

  • I haven’t been able to visit the No-Li Brewhouse yet, but I do like their beer. (Try the Corner Coast Golden Ale or the Lager!) Located in the university district near Gonzaga and the Spokane River, their Brewhouse and Bier Hall look extremely cool.
  • Featuring beer and a “Run Club,” Uprise Brewing is located in the Kendall Yards area. Do some cardio with the Run Club and then enjoy some tasty beer and food! A perfect combo. (Note: I’m a big pilsner fan, and theirs is pretty tasty.)
  • I love Locust Cider & Brewing Co. I wasn’t able to get to their downtown taproom, but I’ve been a longtime patron of their taproom in Woodinville. Along with their ridiculously delicious ciders, this location also features a small menu including pizza. Founded in 2015 in Washington, they’ve now expanded their cideries and taprooms to Colorado. I love their Dry Cider. Get a growler! (family friendly)
  • Though temporarily closed due to renovations at the adjacent Davenport Lusso hotel, the Post Street Ale House is a great place to enjoy a pint and tasty pub fare. They’re scheduled to reopen in 2025.
  • Not to be confused with the infamous Garbage Goat of Riverfront Park, Iron Goat Brewing serves up locally crafted beer and pub eats. No garbage involved. They do, however, feature a Goatmeal Stout. I’m intrigued by the Bob’s Your Uncle robust porter. Next visit!
  • Located appropriately on South Perry Street, Perry Street Brewing features locally-crafted beer and food in a family friendly setting.
  • Should you want to add a pub crawl to your day consider hopping aboard the Spokane Party Trolley with a group of your 21+ pals. Peddle your way to local bars and eateries in very unique style.

Perhaps you just need a classic martini or a straight up shot of whiskey. (or whisky – your call!) It’s always a good idea to enjoy a hand-crafted cocktail on a summer day. Or spring… And fall… Definitely in the winter… Check out one of these spots next time you’re in Spokane:

  • Located in the Washington Cracker Building in the East Downtown Historic District, the Hogwash Whiskey Den specializes in craft cocktails, whiskey flights, and a very delicious food menu. (Whiskey Barrel-aged Shoyu Ramen or Okonomiyaki Tater Tots anyone?? YES, PLEASE.) They also have the names of their bartenders and chefs featured on their website. Props!
  • The nationally successful Spokane distillery Dry Fly Distilling features many excellent spirits. I’m a fan of their gin and their Straight Washington Wheat Whiskey is delicious. I haven’t had the chance to sample their onsite food offerings, but the menu looks quite intriguing. They also offer cool cocktail making classes as well classes like “Distill your own gin.”
  • Located in the heart of downtown, the very hip Bistango Martini Lounge offers expertly shaken or stirred martinis and several very tasty, sharable small-plates. Kerri and I very much enjoyed visit to Bistango. Another round, please!
  • If you’d like to celebrate the end of the National Prohibition Act, stop in at Volstead Act and victoriously imbibe. Located in the downtown area, this very cool bar features craft cocktails and a very nice whiskey/whisky list. Cheers to the 21st Amendment! May forever it pour.
  • Perhaps before or after your visit to the aforementioned Volstead Act, stop in next door at the Cochinito Taqueria and choose something from their very tasty looking menu. They also have a good looking drink menu. Next trip!

Well, that was a lot of talk about delicious food and drink. Maybe we should work some of it off at one of the Spokane area’s many surrounding parks and recreation areas. Just walking around downtown or exploring one of Spokane’s many charming neighborhoods is always a good plan, but nearby Riverside State Park offers many great outdoor distractions.

In a nutshell, there is A LOT to do at Riverside State Park and its surrounding areas. After just a 25-minute drive north of downtown Spokane you’ll find camping, cabins, canoe and kayak spots, a boat launch, fishing, and more! Did I mention there’s also mountain biking, hiking, ORV trails, rock-climbing, snowshoeing, x-country skiing, and snowmobiling?? And MORE! Set alongside the Spokane and Little Spokane Rivers, Riverside Park has it all! (Discover Pass required)

In case you’re not exhausted from your visit to Riverside State Park, there are many more outdoor opportunities very close by! Check out these adventure-filled spots:

  • Don’t miss nearby Nine Mile Falls or a hike to the overlook of the historic Nine Mile Dam (c. 1908) via the Centennial Trail. (Dam!) (Always looking for a chance to work in my dam(n) joke…)
  • If you’d like to do some fishing in an idyllic location, head to Lake Spokane (Long Lake) and drop in your line. There is camping at the Bowl and Pitcher in Riverside State Park, but there’s additional camping and day-use areas up the road at Lake Spokane Campground.  (Fishing license required)
  • If you’re looking for a literal horse-powered adventure, check out Pacific Northwest Guided Trail Rides for year-round guided horseback rides through Riverside State Park. They even have sleigh and carriage rides during the winter!
  • For some adventure bonus points, be sure to explore the Spokane River Water Trail as it winds its way through the above areas.
  • Relatedly, there are a lot of rafting opportunities on Spokane area rivers. One of the popular outfits is Wiley E. Waters Whitewater Rafting. Apparently there’s an area called the “Devil’s Toenail” on the Spokane River Whitewater trip. Yep, I’m gonna need to check that out. There’s also a Spokane Wine & Dine trip. I’m IN. Next summer visit.
Hop onto the Centennial Trail from Riverfront Park

Outdoor pursuits are a big part of the PNW and Spokane County definitely has much to offer. I’m a huge fan of skiing and hiking and there are some fantastic options around the Spokane area – and into neighboring Idaho. There is a year-round abundance of outdoor opportunity to be found throughout Spokane County.

Clocking in as the largest state park in Washington state, Mount Spokane State Park has a whopping 100 miles of trails in and around the beautiful Selkirk Mountains. This includes Mount Kit Carson and the Mount Spokane Ski & Snowboard Park. Part of the park and a non-profit ski hill, Mount Spokane is a beautiful area to explore throughout the year. You might even see a moose!

If skiing is your thing (okay, fine – snowboarding, too), head out of Spokane via SR-206. After upwards of an hour’s drive from downtown Spokane (weather dependent), you’ll arrive at the scenic Mount Spokane ski area. Skiing has been part of the area since the early 1900s, with the Vista House at the Mount Spokane summit being built in 1933. (on the National Registry of Historic Places) Adding to its historical stakes, the world’s first double chairlift opened on the mountain in 1947. In addition to two day lodges, they also have a mountain tap house and yurt! Who doesn’t love skiing up to a mountain yurt, popping off your skis, and grabbing a beer?? Dreamy. (Discover Pass required in summer, Sno-park permit in winter, but not at ski hill. There is snowmobile parking NE of the currently closed Bear Creek Lodge which requires a Sno-park permit.)

If you’re up for a little more mountain action, be it winter or summer, here are a few more options for you to explore in the greater Spokane – and Idaho – areas:

  • Another wonderful ski hill close to Spokane is 49° North, located about an hour and fifteen minutes out of downtown Spokane. Along with Mount Spokane, it is known as one of the lesser-crowded ski areas in the PNW. The ski hill is located off of US-395 in Chewelah, WA. (part of the Colville National Forest)
  • If you’re interested in what Idaho has to offer, head to the Sand Point area and visit Schweitzer Mountain. In addition to great skiing and winter activities, they also have lodging, summer events, and a spa. (Upwards of a two-hour drive from Spokane)
  • Slightly closer and not too far across the border in Kellogg, Idaho, Silver Mountain Resort offers winter and summer activities as well as lodging and a spa. (About an hour and fifteen minute drive from Spokane)

If you’re visiting in the Spokane area during the summer and are looking to do some hiking, consider exploring these scenic options:

  • The Mount Kit Carson Trail is a 7.5 miles round-trip trail which starts in the park and heads directly to the summit of the area’s second tallest peak, Mount Kit Carson. There’s also the option to hit up two mountain peaks by continuing on Trail 160 to nearby Day Mountain. (Discover Pass required) Note: This is a year-round trail and is shared with snowmobiles in the winter.
  • For a longer, more strenuous look at area mountains, head to the Three Peaks Loop trail. This 12.6 mile round-trip hike takes you to Mount Kit Carson, Day Mountain, and Mount Spokane. Depending on time of year, there are huckleberries to be picked. (and possibly some bear also enjoying the berries…) (Discover Pass required)
  • If you’re looking for something more mellow or family friendly, check out the Burping Brook – Smith Gap Loop. It’s an easier-going 5-mile round-trip trail which highlights the deep forests of the area.
  • I love checking out the old fire lookouts of the state. Many of them allow overnight reservations and the fire lookout on Quartz Mt. Fire Lookout within the park is one such location. I haven’t visited this one yet, but it’s high on my list. High, like a fire lookout… (Discover Pass required)

Spread out to the east of Spokane proper, lies the always growing Spokane Valley area. It would be completely easy to fill up a few days exploring the city of Spokane, but the same could be said of adjacent Spokane Valley. A combo pack perhaps? That’s exactly what Kerri and I did with our visit and it was amazing to experience the diverse offerings of the greater Spokane area.

Getting to Spokane Valley is easy! Hop on I-90 East out of Spokane proper and you’ll arrive in the Spokane Valley in no time. (In general, let’s say 15 minutes from downtown Spokane to the Spokane Valley core.) There are many things to do, see, eat, and drink when visiting Spokane Valley. Here are some of my favorites as well some places on my future-visit agenda:

  • I love museums which showcase local history and development. The Spokane Valley Heritage Museum is one such place. It has great displays, is well laid out, and is overall very interesting. However, don’t attempt to take any pictures inside the museum. Don’t do it.
  • Celebrate the entire Spokane County and nearby Idaho at the annual Spokane County Interstate Fair. It occurs the Friday after Labor Day for 10 days and is a celebration of all things Spokane County and close-by Idahoan towns. Agriculture, farming, animals, tractors, fried foods, rides, music, and MORE!
  • For a celebration of all things Spokane Valley, don’t miss the yearly Valley Fest every September. Local festivities are highlighted by local pageantry, music, a car show, local vendors, and more!

I think my love of an old-school burger joint is well-established at this point. If not, I am happy to continue my research and further highlight this great love affair. To support this dedication, we stopped at the classic Ron’s Drive-inn while adventuring through Spokane Valley. My burger was delicious and I’m looking forward to a triumphant return on my next visit. Fairly close by is another old-school burger spot called the Thrifty Scotsman. I didn’t get to visit this time, but I’ll hit up their tasty looking burgers on my next trip into town. No trouble at all.

In addition to old-school burgers, there are a few more Spokane Valley spots I’ll be checking out on my next visit:

  • Perched on a dramatic basalt cliff overlooking the Spokane Valley, the Arbor Crest Wine Cellars and Cliff House Estate have much to offer. This historic property (c. 1925) formerly known as the Royal Riblet House, features wine tasting, dining, music, and ongoing events.
  • Long-established on the Washington state wine scene, Spokane Valley’s Latah Creek Wine Cellars is open daily and features both indoor and outdoor tasting settings and opportunities to visit their onsite wine-making operation.
  • I’d visit Natural 20 Brewing Co. based solely on their name. Nerds unite! This brewery hosts gaming events, trivia nights, and more. Find them at their Spokane Valley Taproom or in their Downtown Spokane Taproom & Brewery. I’m looking forward to trying the Mindflayer Sandwich and a pint of their Spirit Sword Belgian Single. Nat 20 FTW!
  • I always love a good farmer’s market. It’s a great way to get to know local artisans and enjoy tasty treats and crafts. Check out the Spokane Valley Farmers Market for just that! (June thru September with a Winter Market in December)

Just another five or so minutes east of Spokane Valley sits the town of Liberty Lake, one of the fastest growing areas in the US. My friend Kerri and her family lived in the area for several years before returning to the Tri-Cities. The area was still fairly small when they moved in, but by the time they moved away it had more than doubled in size. It continues to grow and is a popular area outside of Spokane proper. If you’re visiting the area, don’t miss Liberty Lake Regional Park for camping, swimming, fishing, hiking, and an ORV park. Liberty Lake is also located just a couple minutes’ drive from the Idaho border and the city of Coeur d’Alene.

If you’re looking for a completely idyllic drive through the countryside, you can’t miss a visit to the Green Bluff Growers area. Located a scenic 12-mile drive north of Spokane and perched on a… bluff overlooking the Spokane Valley, this series of thirty farms and businesses is a year-round gem. During our visit, Kerri and I enjoyed a beautiful fall day exploring the area. We hit up everything from farms to tasting rooms to wonderful country shops. If we’d had a little more time, we might’ve even been able to enjoy a good ol’ fashioned corn maze. (Or maize maze? Bwahahahaa.)

There are so many cool spots to check out in the Green Bluff area. Following are some of the ones we were able to visit and some we’d like to check out on our next visit:

  • We loved our stop at Walter’s Fruit Ranch. We were visiting during the Fall Festival and the farm had something for everyone. Fruit, pumpkin picking, family activities, local vendors and artisans – all the country fair things! They also serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner in the Orchard Café and have a great gift selection in their Country Gift Shop – and drinks at their Press Plate bar.
  • The High Country Orchard was a great stop and I could’ve hung out there all afternoon. They have a great country store, cider donuts, music, an outdoor patio, weekend crafts shows, u-pick fruit, and a very charming country-fair atmosphere. Also, apparently there’s a Green Bluff Party Wagon?? (Note to Kerri: NEXT TRIP!)
  • It was such a lovely day on our visit and our stop at Townshend Cellar was sublime. This winery features indoor and outdoor wine tasting opportunities in a very inviting orchard setting. Along with my wine purchases, I also grabbed some charcuterie items for a mini-picnic outside. Lovely.
  • In addition to its many fresh fruit options, Siemer’s Farm is a mecca of all things country farm. Festivals, fresh cider and pizza, the Mt. Spokane Brewery, a great gift shop, ‘lots of kids activities, seasonal vendors, a corn maze, and so much more!
  • Sporting views of Mount Spokane, Beck’s Harvest House looks pretty cool. They’ve got a country kitchen, country store, music, u-pick opportunities, a harvest festival, and a giant corn maze. I’m IN. Next visit!
  • I’m very intrigued by Big Barn Brewing and their self-sustaining operation. They use produce and hops from their farm and brew their own beer. And have an onsite taphouse. Cool! Next visit!
  • While we were driving around the area, I saw a sign for the Green Bluff Candy Company at the Halbig Family Farm. It advertised u-pick caramels! I will definitely be making a visit on my next trip. Those caramels aren’t gonna pick themselves!

Alas, that wraps up our recent adventures in Spokane and the greater Spokane Valley areas. We ate great food, enjoyed delightful beverages, fed the Garbage Goat, stared out over great vistas and mountains, explored history, and generally had an excellent time. We packed quite a bit into that long weekend! It was time to head back to the Tri-Cities desert and begin planning our next visit.

But wait! There was still a little more exploring to do on the way home… Located a short drive southwest of Spokane, college-town Cheney is home to Eastern Washington University. In addition to its student population, it also houses a charming historic downtown core. (on the National Registry of Historic Places) Additionally, since it is so close to Spokane, it is also a reasonable commute for many people working in Spokane who might require a break from the city hubbub.

On your visit to Cheney, consider these spots for your own break from the city hubbub:

  • Learn a little more about the history of Cheney and surrounding areas at the Cheney Historical Museum. Step back in time and learn more about the western expansion into the area.
  • If you’re up for some hiking, wildlife watching, or general sightseeing, head to the beautiful Turnbull National Wildlife Refuge and enjoy the flora and fauna and many landscapes of the area. This large refuge is located roughly 30-minutes from Spokane and just outside of Cheney. Also located close by is a portion of the Columbia Plateau Trail State Park. Don’t miss exploring its beauty!
  • If you’re visiting the Cheney area in May, check out the local May Fest. Live music, food, local artisans, a car show, a CORNHOLE tournament, and more! Who doesn’t love a good game of Cornhole??
  • As is usually the case with college towns, there’s a good restaurant and pub scene. There are definitely a good selection of watering holes in Cheney, in addition to the requisite pizza, BBQ, and pub fare spots. Did I mention they have a ZIPS??

Another town just off of the I-90 corridor and southwest of Spokane is tiny Medical Lake. I keep a very fond spot in my heart for this little burb and hadn’t visited in quite a while. Back in my far-away younger days, I regularly spent summer weeks at the nearby Silver Lake Camp. Sneaking out of cabins at night to visit the boys’ cabins, waterskiing, swimming, doing frivolous crafts… Halcyon days, for sure. Many, many memories came flooding back on our drive through the area.

Unfortunately, Medical Lake recently battled a very extreme fire and is currently working on area repair and reclamation. The town is hanging on and putting a lot of effort into recovery. Stop in on your way through the area and support the local businesses! Some places to hit up on your Medical Lake visit:

  • If you’re looking for a coffee or a baked goods fix, hit up Roam Roasters, Tommy G’s or Lefevre St. Bakery in the downtown area. Lefevre St. Bakery also serves breakfast and lunch and the menu looks tasty!
  • Lean into that caffeine jolt and enjoy a stroll or bike ride along the paved, 2.9-mile Medical Lake Loop trail. (North and south access to the trail from downtown’s Waterfront Park)
  • Support local artisans at the monthly Medical Lake Farmer’s Market. (2025 Winter Market, monthly thru April, located at City Hall)

And now,now we come to the end of our Spokane County adventures. We still had a little more exploring to do off of I-90 and US-395 on the way home, but I’ll save that for my Lincoln, Grant, and Franklin County articles. Amidst the area browniness, there are many more beautiful experiences to be had. Coming soon!

I’m so glad we visited Spokane County and celebrated its many offerings. Both Kerri and I have a lot of great memories of Spokane County over the years. It was eastern Washington’s “big city” of our youth and presented the possibility of big city adventures. It always held a special mystique and spurred our dreams of the fantastic and exciting. And crème brulee and ranch dressing…

Fast-forwarding a few years, it was great to experience the area through an adult, much more traveled lens. I’ve had the great luck to visit many parts of the world in my adult years, but will always come home to Washington state. I love this state and every visit along its highways and byways always surprises me. Experiencing Washington as an adult, I’m able to more deeply appreciate and understand the state’s diverse environments, history, and ongoing development. Spokane County, with its history, big city vibes, small town charms, and beautiful mountains and plateaus, is a wonderful part of the state and I’m looking forward to my next visit. AND, we no longer have to beg our parents to drive us!

Happy travels!

I Ate the State – Spokane County SPOTIFY PLAYLIST

  • Spokane’s Not Dumb – Jake Beal (from Spokane’s Not Dumb)
  • Swinging on A Star – Bing Crosby (from Swinging on A Star)
  • Reelin’ In the Years – Steely Dan (from Can’t Buy A Thrill)
  • Eye in the Sky – The Alan Parsons Project (from Eye in the Sky)
  • Jolene – Zac Brown Band (from The Foundation)
  • Hey Kind Friend – Indigo Girls (from Shaming of the Sun)
  • Jesse’s Girl – Rick Springfield (from Working Class Dog)
  • Rock Lobster – The B-52’s (from The B-52’s)
  • The Spirit of Radio – Rush (from Permanent Waves)
  • Spokane – The Painted Horses (from The Painted Horses)
  • Don’t You Want Me – The Human League (from Dare!)
  • Abracadabra – Steve Miller Band (from Abracadabra)
  • Crimson and Clover – Joan Jett & the Blackhearts (from I Love Rock ‘N’ Roll)
  • Get A Goat – Formidable Vegetable (from Garbage Guts)
  • Spokane Motel Blues – Tom T. Hall (from Tom T. Hall – Storyteller, Poet, Philosopher)
  • Freeze-Frame – The J. Geils Band (from Freeze Frame)
  • Left Hook Like Frazier – The Delines (from Left Hook Like Frazier)
  • It’s Been A Long, Long Time – Bing Crosby (from Bing – His Legendary Year 1931-1957)

Be sure to check out these other I Ate the State adventures:

Note to Readers: I Ate the State receives no form of compensation or incentive from any business, goods, or services covered in any I Ate the State article.

I Ate the State – Lewis County

Welcome back to the adventures of I Ate the State! It’s been a while and I’m happy to be back in the driver’s seat.

One of the two oldest counties in Washington, Lewis County is brimming with history and beauty. The indigenous peoples of the area have called it home for millennia, treasuring its bountiful resources. The beauty of the area encompasses epic mountains, winding rivers, and an ever-evolving volcanic legacy. The modern era hosts a central location for enjoying this history and beauty along with providing much opportunity for the future. Within what many see as a passing, often rainy section of the I-5 corridor between Canada and Oregon, lies a fascinating part of the state waiting to be explored and appreciated.

Originally named Vancouver County in 1845, it was renamed in 1849 after Lewis and Clark explorer, Merriweather Lewis. Suffice it to say, getting to Lewis County isn’t quite the expedition it once may have been. The aforementioned I-5 corridor is likely the most popular way to get to the area with mountainous US-12 and SR-6 from the coastal areas also being well-traveled routes. Since I am presently located in the greater Seattle area, I typically take I-5, but if you’re coming over from east of the Cascades, US-12 is both beautiful and efficient. US-101 along the coast to SR-6 can also make for a lovely excursion into Lewis County. (Pro tip: If you’re coming over US-12 in the winter months, check the pass reports and consider using I-90 as an alternate route.)

Scenic Lewis County
Welcome to scenic Lewis County!

If you’re heading south on I-5 like me, Centralia is the first main city in Lewis County you’ll find. Originally named Centerville and founded by African-American, George Washington, Centralia is the largest city in Lewis County and was incorporated in 1886. Centralia owes much of its success to the foresight and generosity of George Washington, the only African-American to found a town in the northwest. Along with his wife, Mary Jane, Mr. Washington was instrumental in creating the town core as well as generously helping struggling townsfolk during financial and social crises of the day, in spite of racial prejudices.

Having evolved into a more peaceful burg in present times, Centralia experienced its fair share of havoc during its formative years. Check out these areas on your next visit to Centralia to learn more about the history of the area:

  • The downtown area is a designated historic district and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. In addition to being very scenic and charming, it is very walkable. Hit up some of Historic Centralia by foot and take a stroll through time.
  • Visit George Washington Park (c. 1881) in the town square to pay tribute to Centralia’s founding father. The park hosts local events and is also home to the Centralia Timberland Library (c. 1913) and features several statues, including the WW I memorial The Sentinel, by Alonzo Victor Lewis (c. 1924) and statues of town founders, George and Mary Jane Washington.
  • In 1919, the Centralia Massacre occurred between members of the American Legion and Industrial Workers of the World (“Wobblies”) during an Armistice Day parade.  As a result of the bloody fight, six people died, many were wounded, and trials and prison sentences followed thereafter. The location of the conflict took place at 807 N Tower Ave in downtown Centralia.
  • For a glimpse into Centralia in the early 1900s, pop into the Centralia Train Station in downtown Centralia. Built by Northern Pacific Railway in 1912 and now an Amtrak station, it is still serving travelers today.
  • The grand Centralia Fox Theatre (c. 1930), a gem in the downtown corridor, has played host to theatre, cinema, and more during its near 100-year run. This historic theatre is currently being renovated and will hopefully again shine its stage lights.
  • Just a short drive from downtown, head to Fort Borst Park for a look at the historic Borst Home, (c. early 1860s) the blockhouse, (c. 1856) and one-room school replica. In addition to a look back into Centralia’s past, this large park also features modern park amenities as well as sports facilities and a rhododendron garden. It is located at the confluence of the Chehalis and Skookumchuck rivers.
  • Paying tribute to the history of Centralia’s working ladies, the unique Shady Lady Bordello Museum can be visited in the upstairs area of the expansive Shady Lady Antiques. Located in the downtown area, the Shady Lady is a great place to start your exploration of Centralia’s downtown Antique stores.

To set yourself up for exploring Centralia, you’ll need a good place to rest up and refuel. Originally a men’s hotel by the name of The Oxford Hotel (c. 1908 – on the National Register of Historic Places), the Olympic Club Saloon & Hotel now opens its doors to all. Operated by the McMenamins family, the hotel has retained its original grandeur and provides an enjoyable journey into Centralia’s past. The Olympic Club Saloon & Hotel is a great place to stay or to grab a tasty meal. Saddle up to the historic bar and grab one of their namesake beverages, play a game of pool, check out the movie theatre, relax on their outdoor patio – and eat some tots!

Sidebar: Their Cajun tots are delicious. I live next door to the McMenamins Anderson School and it’s dangerous living so close to delicious tots. DANGEROUS.) It should also be mentioned that they offer other delicious fare as well. True story! (Important note: February 2nd is National Tater Tot Day. Just sayin’.)

Since 1983, the McMenamins family has been rescuing and transforming northwest gems and now has over 60 historic locations throughout Oregon and Washington. With each location paying homage to its original purpose and local legends, you can enjoy a great stay and learn about the history of the area. Check out their Passport program which rewards guests for stays and purchases at McMenamins properties. (Including free and/or discounted tater tots.)

If you find your diet requires more than just tater tots (Wait. WHAT??), there are many great dining spots in the Centralia area. Here are a few options to help curb your appetite:

  • Serving Centralia since 1973, Country Cousin offers classic diner fare including breakfast, lunch, and more. Open daily from 7am – 8pm. Don’t’ forget to stop into their “Country Store” gift shop for a piece of country kitsch.
  • A question I will continue to ask is, “Why isn’t there a Burgerville closer to the Seattle area? WHY??” But whenever I’m in the Centralia area, I love their signature marionberry shakes, Walla Walla onion rings, and delicious burgers. YUM! Don’t miss a stop at this northwest institution. (Dear Burgerville, why aren’t you in the Seattle-area? WHY??)
  • While I haven’t yet visited the Berry Fields Café, it comes highly recommended by a longtime local. Their food looks very tasty and I’m looking forward to stopping by during my next Centralia visit. Serving breakfast and lunch, in a very charming location, they’re open daily from 7am to 5pm.
  • Not only does Dick’s Brewing Company feature tasty brews, they handmake and smoke delicious sausage! Hit up their tasting room on Friday & Saturday from 3pm – 7:30pm (+21) to sample the suds and don’t miss grabbing some sausage at their store, NW Sausage & Deli. (Open Monday thru Saturday, 9:30am – 5pm, until 9pm on Fri/Sat. Closed Sunday.)
  • Talk about a classic! Don’t miss Bill and Bea’s Café for a delicious step back in time. Featuring hand-pressed burgers, shakes, breakfast fare and more, this local gem is open daily from 8am to 8pm. (11am on Sundays) Located two blocks west of I-5, off of exit 82. Best Burger in Lewis Co (‘20, ‘21)
  • For a large selection of handmade pizzas, sandwiches, salads, and beer on tap, head to the Tiki Tap House. Open Tuesday thru Saturday, 11:30am – 9pm. (Closed Sunday/Monday)

Big on celebrating the history and bounty of the area, Centralia has several things to keep you entertained, informed, and full throughout the year. A few ideas for your next visit:

  • Located all around downtown historic Centralia, the yearly Antique Fest is not to be missed. The entire downtown core participates and it’s a great time for exploring old and new. The event also features a tasty selection of food trucks and vendors. August 2-4, 2024
  • Who doesn’t love a state fair? Fried foods of every kind, rides, exhibits, animals, music, and more! Every August, the Centralia area gears up for the SW Washington State Fair located conveniently in between Centralia and nearby Chehalis. FRIED FOODS! (August 13th – 18th, 2024)
  • If you’re looking to repel a vampire, improve your kissing game, or maybe make a better spaghetti sauce, head to the Washington State Garlic Fest and stock up! (Located at the fairgrounds, end of August 2024)
  • Located at Pine Street Plaza in downtown Centralia, the Centralia Farmer’s Market features a nice variety of local produce and artisan wares. Operating April thru September from 11am – 5pm. (Possibly into October, weather pending) Be sure to visit their Holiday Market on Fridays thru Sundays, after Thanksgiving thru mid-December, for holiday gifts and treats. (Fri/Sat – 10am to 5pm, Sun – 10am to 4pm)
  • For an experience in all things farming, head to Seedpod Farm. Located on the banks of the Skookumchuck River, Seedpod Farms plays hosts to animals, bees, gardens, crops, and more. Sign up for one of their hosted garden walks, check out The Keystone Labyrinth, and learn about the opportunities associated with their CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) farm share. Don’t miss picking up a flower bouquet from their seasonal flower patch. (Farm visits, classes, and walks are by appointment only) 

Just south of Centralia on I-5, the charming town of Chehalis awaits your visit. There are several exits leading directly off of I-5, but if you happen to be coming from (or going to) Centralia, the Jackson Highway is a great side route to explore. Not only will you avoid the often busy I-5, you’ll get a scenic view of the area. If you happen to be coming north on I-5, you can access this route off I-5 near Gee Cee’s Truck stop. (I-5 Exit 57) It shortly merges with SR-505 near Toledo, passes by Lewis and Clark State Park near US-12 and then parallels I-5 up to Chehalis. Heading towards Centralia, it then turns into N National Ave which splits into N National Ave and NE Kresky Ave which take you to and from Centralia. Whew!

Originally called Saundersville as of 1858 with the establishment of a post office by Schuyler Saunders, it became Chehalis in 1870. Saunders, along with wife Eliza Barrett, moved to the area around 1850. Eliza became quite an important figure in the development of the area and surpassed her first husband Saunders in terms of local importance and character. Using her land gained through marriage to Saunders, she strategically assisted the expansion of the area and used her influence and wealth to create businesses, cultural pillars, and community. In addition to being married several times, which was unusual for the era, she didn’t adhere to the social norms of the day and largely contributed to establishing Chehalis as an important part in the development of Washington State.

While becoming the county seat in 1874, and being officially recognized as Chehalis in 1879, the area has long been home to the Confederated Tribes of the Chehalis Reservation, with their presence predating the town of Chehalis by many years and much history. With the Chehalis and Newaukum rivers converging near Chehalis, this strategic meeting has always provided an important bounty for the area of which the Chehalis tribes, known as the People of the Sands, have been essential stewards.

Trailhead
Near the Willapa Hills Trail Chehalis Trailhead

As you enter the downtown area, it’s easy to see how Chehalis looked in its early days. Many of the buildings in the downtown core are over 100 years old and sit on the National Register of Historic Places. The entire downtown district is in fact on the register. Just a quick drive around town will give you the stately Lewis Co Courthouse (c. 1927), the beautiful Chehalis Timberland Library (c. 1910), the cornerstone St. Helens Hotel (c. 1921), and many more interesting locations. If you’re in the mood to pep up your drive, head to the historic Hillside District and take a walk around John Dobson and McFadden Parks. The drive to get there involves some twisty turns and will take you by the Troop 373 and 7373 Scout Lodge (c. 1937), where you can catch the Dobson-McFadden walking trail, which connects the two parks.

For a more thorough take on the area, head to the Lewis Co Historical Museum and immerse yourself in local lore. Set in what was originally the Burlington Northern Depot (c. 1912), it hosts a great collection of the town’s history. It is also the start of the Historic Downtown Walking Tour should you want to get those steps in. Be sure to note the giant stump near the museum entry. It was originally cut down to accommodate an ultimately cancelled visit by President McKinley, but did host President Teddy Roosevelt in 1903, followed by future president William Howard Taft, and later, VP nominee, Franklin D. Roosevelt in 1920. (Open 10am – 4/5pm. Closed Sunday/Monday. Summer and winter hours vary.)

Adventure brings hunger. Hunger leads to hangry. Hangry leads to the dark side. Don’t let your hunger get the hangry point during your Chehalis journeys. There are some great spots to stop and feed the hangry while in the area. Here are some local favorites:

  • At the very top of my list is the amazing Shona’s Food Company. I would make the drive to Chehalis just to visit this place. Run by the lovely Shona, this delicious spot features foods from Shona’s American/British/Northern Ireland heritage, as well as hand-crafted cheese from the Black Sheep Creamery. The bap sandwiches… The desserts… The hand pies… SO DELICIOUS! (Tuesday – Friday, 6am – 3pm, Saturday, 6am – 5pm) Also in the same building and adjacent to Shona’s is the charming  Ewe and I. Sadly, I never learned to knit, but this place inspires me to fix that issue. (Tuesday – Saturday, 10am – 5pm. Closed Sunday/Monday.)
  • They offer reservations at the always busy Jeremy’s Farm to Table and I highly suggest you make some! Also featuring a market and fruit stand, this tasty spot features breakfast, lunch, dinner, music, and a generally very cool vibe. The market and fruit stand feature local produce, milk, cheese, eggs, meat, bread, etc. (Open Monday – Thursday, 10am – 9pm, Friday to 10pm, Saturday 8am – 10pm, Sunday to 8pm.)
  • While primarily a used book store, Shakespeare & Co. also sells take-away homemade soups on Wednesdays. This lovely spot is also a great place to pick up a good read. (Open Monday – Friday, 11am – 5pm, Saturday and Sunday, 10am, Sunday noon to 4:30.)
  • The classic Shire Bar & Bistro features steak, seafood, and bistro fare. Catering to the area for the past 20 years, this spot is a popular destination for a tasty night out. (Open Tuesday – Friday, 11:30am – 9pm, Saturday 5pm – 9pm. Closed Sunday/Monday)

The next part of Lewis County I’d planned to investigate was west of Chehalis, along SR-6 and towards Pe Ell. That said, on the way out of town and along the way, I found several spots well worth a visit:

  • The oldest, continually lived-in residence in Washington is the McFadden Log House (c. 1859), located in a quiet Chehalis neighborhood. It’s well worth checking out, but as it’s a private residence, you’ll need to do so from your car, as you slowly roll by. Just be cool. And respectful!
  • Stop by the expansive Veterans Memorial Museum, located on the outskirts of Chehalis for a well-curated look at military and veteran history. (Open Tuesday – Saturday, 10am – 5pm. Closed Sunday/Monday)
  • Just around the corner from the Veterans Memorial Museum, is the charming Chehalis-Centralia Railroad & Museum. It was unfortunately closed when I stopped by, but it features a dinner train, an escape room, and seasonal rides, including a Polar Express event in the winter. Their steam engine is currently undergoing repairs, so check online for future departures.
  • If you happen to be in the area during the fall, stop by Willy Tee’s Pumpkin Patch at Teitzel Farm and stock up on decorative pumpkins and gourds as well as lovely sugar pumpkins. (Friday – Sunday, 10am – 7pm during the fall months)
  • Claquato was the original county seat of Lewis County and the quaint Claquato Church is still standing. Built in 1858, it is actually the oldest standing church in Washington State. While original construction plans were for a Presbyterian church, it ended up being consecrated as a Methodist church and school. It’s on the National Register of Historic Places and is well worth a visit. Featuring the original bell, the crown steeple, topped by a crown of thorns, is inspired by New England meeting houses. (Located just off of SR-6, on the way to Adna and Pe Ell.)

Lewis County has its fair share of beautiful landscapes and the route along SR-6 features several examples. Take a break from the four-wheel travel modes and set out in the open, clean air. The epic Willapa Hills State Park Trail goes between Chehalis and South Bend for an adventure-filled 56 miles of biking, walking, and horseback riding. I covered this in my Pacific County article and was happy to explore more parts of the trail while in Lewis County.

If you’re looking for camping, hiking, and fishing opportunities, Rainbow Falls State Park is a great choice. It’s very accessible, beautiful, (it has a fuchsia garden!) and hosts part of the aforementioned Willapa Hills State Park Trail. I spent a couple of hours hanging out by the falls and it was a lovely way to spend a sunny afternoon. (Complete with rainbows!)

Pro Tip: Be sure to get the appropriate licenses before heading out to the parks and trailheads. Get your Discover Pass for state parks and a recreational license if you plan on doing any fishing.

While services and restaurants are more sparsely located in the area, there are indeed some great places to check out. Located just off of SR-6, Adna Grocery is a great place to stock up on groceries, deli foods, and delicious treats – and don’t miss the Doty General Store for a trip back in time. (Also features a post office, antiques, knickknacks, baked goods, etc.) If you’re in need of relaxing, gorgeous farmland views while enjoying a tasty brew, be sure to hit up the excellent Jones Creek Brewing. (Friday 4-8pm, Saturday 12pm – 8pm, Sunday 12pm – 4pm) While Jones Creek Brewing does have light snacks, head just a little further west to Pe Ell and hit up Evey’s Café for homestyle diner far and a full bar. (Daily, 8am – 9pm.)

Since my last visit to the area, the wonderful Owl & Olive café has closed. They do, however, still host weddings and events in their lovely barn, along with delicious catering. The couple who owns the establishment is wonderful and I had a great time hanging out during my visit. I sincerely hope they reopen the café at some point, but in the meantime, check out the annual Ride the Willapa race which starts at the Owl & Olive. (The 2023 race was on Saturday, June 24th.)

Another great way to explore the Lewis County scene while avoiding the I-5 corridor is to jump on Old Hwy 603, south of Chehalis, and head to the Napavine area. It’s a lovely drive along this two-lane, classic Washington highway, with great spots along the way to visit. If you’re feeling peckish, or a maybe a little thirsty, check out Ramblin’ Jacks Rib-eye for a classic steak, BBQ, or tasty breakfast. (Open daily, 8am – 9pm.) Or, for a further step back in time, try out Frosty’s Saloon & Grill (c. 1901) for family-friendly diner fare. (Saturday/Sunday, open at 8am, Monday – Friday, open 11am. Open until 10pm Sun-Thurs, 2am on Fri/Sat.) Also be sure to check out the new kid in town, the Tumac Taproom for craft beer and cider on tap. (Monday – Thursday, 4-9pm, Friday/Saturday, 12– 10pm, Sunday 12 – 7pm)

Road
Scenes from a rambling drive in west Lewis County

Just down from Napavine on Old Hwy 603 sits the eclectic town of Winlock. A lumber town from its early days, it brought Finnish, German, and Swedish immigrants to the area to work in the mills. In addition to its successful lumber industry, the town gained fame as the Egg and Poultry Capital of the World. While no longer a player in the poultry industry, Winlock is now host to the WORLD’S LARGEST EGG. It’s well worth a visit, especially if you can check it out during the annual Winlock Egg Days. (June 15th, 2024) There’s a parade, farmer’s market, evening street dance, and FREE EGG SALAD SANDWICHES. (Be still my egg salad loving heart. What more do you need?? Tots. Okay, good point.)

Side note: Apparently Indiana thinks they have the world’s largest egg. Let’s fight! Maybe an egg toss? Or one of those egg-in-a-teaspoon relays… Let’s do this! (And it looks like Canada wants to enter the fray as well. Hmm.)

If eggs aren’t your thing, head to the Winlock Historical Museum and see what else the history of the area has to offer. (Open Wed/Thurs/Sat, 11am – 2) Or maybe grab your instrument and hit up the annual Winlock Pickersfest. (August 3-5, 2024.) It features concerts, jams, and workshops, along with camping, food, horseshoes, and more! But if you decide you do actually need more chicken-related fun, walk around the downtown area and visit the rooster statues. (These ones are nice and won’t chase you mercilessly around the farmyard.) Finish up your tribute to all things eggs with a visit to the unique Rowdy Rooster Bistro & Thrift. (Open Tuesday – Friday, 8am – 4pm. Closed Saturday – Monday)

As you head out of Winlock, there are a couple of nice routes to explore. If you’d like to head back to I-5, jump on SR-505 and head southeast, passing by the modern part of Winlock. If you’d like to stick to the quieter roads, check out the Winlock-Vader Road and consider a visit to the tiny town of… Vader. (OH how I wish they had a Star Wars festival. Come on.)

Established in 1906, the town of Vader (originally named Little Falls) may be small, but it’s worth a visit. I had a great time on my sunny visit and enjoyed a very tasty breakfast of biscuits and gravy at the quaint Little Crane Café. This classic, small town diner serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, along with old-school, kitschy décor. (Open daily, 7am – 8pm)

After breakfast, I decided to work off the biscuits with a walk around the area. My first stop was at the Old City Jail and adjacent J.K. Werden Memorial Park. (There’s a museum inside the jail, but said jail is unfortunately closed for repairs.) Just a block or so over from the park is the charming Grace Evangelical Church of Vader. (c. 1902) I wrapped up my tour with a visit to the conveniently timed Citywide Yard Sale, hosted by the local Lion’s Club, right alongside SR-506. (Usually first weekend in August) I also was able to visit the historic Rosehill home, owned by lovely author, Judi Costello, who was also hosting a yard sale that afternoon.

After toting my unexpected yard sale purchases back to the car, it was time to head towards I-5 on SR 506 and back to the eastern side of Lewis County. Crossing under I-5 on SR-506, which then becomes Toledo-Vader Road, I headed into the little town of Toledo. (Note: You have not arrived in Ohio.)

Should you be in immediate need of an old-school burger, from SR-506, take the Cowlitz Loop underpass and check out Mrs. Beesley’s Burgers. (Open daily, 11am – 8pm.) There’s also an informative heritage marker just across the parking lot describing the Cowlitz Landing area and the Cowlitz Trail. Count yourself as lucky. I’m pretty sure the tedious canoe ride on the adjacent Cowlitz River didn’t end up with a tasty burger and fries.

From Mrs. Beesley’s, jump on the adjacent Cowlitz Ridge Road and follow it north to Toledo-Vader Road. Or hop on I-5 North and take Exit 60 to Toledo-Vader Road. Then, simply follow Toledo-Vader Road east into… Toledo! At any rate, there should be jumping or hopping involved.

Once known as Cowlitz Landing, modern-day Toledo now exists a little further east, but still sits next to the river. There is much history in the area, including the settlement history of Washington State and in particular, millennia of Native American history of the Cowlitz Tribe. From the importance of the cross-Cascades, Native American Cowlitz Trail to some of the earliest settlement history of the Fort Cowlitz/Cowlitz Farm, the Toledo area has been integral in the development of Washington State.

There’s a lot of great exploring to do in this area and some excellent backroads to travel along. Should you want to grab some sustenance before embarking on your Toledo-area adventure, check out these local spots:

  • Stop in at Donna’s Place for burgers, pizza, and classic diner fare. Located in downtown Toledo, they’re open Tuesday – Thursday, from 11am – 8pm. (Friday/Saturday to 9pm. Closed Sunday/Monday.)
  • Don’t miss Betty’s Place, a classic spot offering old-school burgers, milkshakes, and more. Open daily, 10:30am to 8pm. (Friday/Saturday to 9pm) Might I add they have fry sauce, fried mushrooms, fried green beans, and my favorite sandwich. (Turkey, bacon, Swiss, tomato on grilled sourdough. Yes, please.) (Side note: I wonder if Donna and Betty are friends? Rivals?)
  • If you’re looking for a boutique winery located in a beautiful, pastoral location, just outside of downtown Toledo, head directly to Bateaux Cellars. Super friendly owners, regular events, great outdoor seating areas, and tasty wine make this a must-visit spot. They source their grapes from the fantastic Airfield Estates vineyard near Sunnyside, which were featured in the very lovely Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon I tried on my visit. They also carry beer from Brothers Cascadia Brewing (located in Vancouver) and ciders from local OutWest Ciders. On the day of my visit, there was a local artisan event happening and I ended up with an amazing sculpture from Rusting Day Dreams and some tasty coffee from Black Cat Coffee Co. (Winery tasting room – Friday, 2-6pm, Saturday, Noon-6pm, Sunday, Noon-5pm)
  • For more local artisan action, stop by the Toledo Thursday Market and enjoy what the area has to offer. Their upcoming season opens March 13th, 2024 and can be found at 115 Ramsey Way at the Steamboat Landing.

After enjoying a stop in Toledo, I headed north onSR-505 to Jackson Hwy and then on to the Lewis & Clark State Park. This is a nice park for camping, horseback riding, hiking, and includes equestrian campsite areas. To learn more about the area, head a little further up Jackson Hwy to the Jackson House State Park Heritage Site and enjoy a picnic while you learn more about area history. (Discover Pass required at both locations.)

Continue following Jackson Hwy past the Jackson House State Park Heritage Site to US-12, also known as the White Pass Scenic Byway. (c. 1926. In 1967, it was extended to its current endpoint in Aberdeen.) At this point, you can continue to follow Jackson Hwy all the way back to Chehalis, but I chose to head east on US-12 towards Packwood and White Pass. If you happen to be coming to Lewis County from the eastern side of the state, I highly recommend coming over via US-12. Overall, US-12 is one of my very favorite roads in the state. It’s filled with interesting stops, great food and drink, and leads to some of the most spectacular scenery in the entire United States. It is truly one of the great American highways.

Note: You can take US-12 all the way to Detroit, should you be so inclined! I’ve driven it into Helena, Montana and it was an amazing, incredibly scenic route. (And all those mountains and twisty turns – YOWSA!)

Heading east on US-12 will take you over the very large Mayfield Lake. Formed by Mayfield Dam, the Mayfield Lake Park is located just off of US-12 on Beach Road. It’s a great place for boating, swimming, fishing, and camping. (Note: Be sure to make reservations as the area gets crowded in the summer months.) If you’re looking to rent a boat or jet ski or are interested in cottages or cabins, check out the Mayfield Lake Resort & Marina.

A few miles past Mayfield Lake, you’ll hit the tiny town of Mossyrock. Stop by the family-friendly Pioneer Bar & Grill for classic diner fare, including burgers, pizza, and sandwiches. (Open daily, 11am – 10pm, 11pm on Fri/Sat, 9pm on Sunday.) If you happen to be in the area during July or the winter holiday season, stop in at Aldrich Berry Farm & Nursery for delicious blueberries and Christmas trees. A second-generation farm, they’ve been operating in the area since 1944.

Meandering east on US-12 is a great way to go. However, if you happen to be coming from the north, you might consider hitting up SR-7 off of I-5 near the Fife area. This will bring you down past Spanaway, and to the tiny town of Elbe. Not far past Elbe, you’ll enter Lewis County and the town of Mineral. This route, filled with scenic farmland, is what I travel if when I’m headed to the White Pass Ski Area. (White Pass is one of my favorite places to ski in the world. THE WORLD.)

Whether you enter Morton via US-12 or SR-7, the area is perfectly situated for taking a break and plotting your mountain adventures. Located on US-12, in between Mt. Rainier and Mt. Saint Helens, the Morton area has much to offer as a mountain gateway location. If you happen to be in the area in mid-August, be sure to hit up the Morton Loggers Jubilee (August 8-11, 2024) and learn about the logging history of the area. In its 81st year, it features all things logging, plus lawnmower races and a parade!

While planning your mountain adventure, be sure to stop in at one of Morton’s great restaurants and fuel up for your journey. Check out one of these spots on your next visit:

  • For a great family-friendly diner experience, featuring breakfast, lunch, and dinner, stop in at Papa Bears Restaurant & Lounge. Open daily from 8am – 8pm.
  • It’s been a tradition to stop at Plaza Jalisco when returning home from White Pass Ski Area. Family-friendly, big portions and always tasty. Open daily from 11am – 9pm. (Friday/Saturday to 10pm)
  • Located downtown, in the historic Morton Hotel building, the Rivers Coffeehouse & Bistro is open early for breakfast and features healthy and tasty options. Open 7am – 4pm, Sunday thru Thursday and 7am – 7pm on Friday/Saturday. If you’re interested in staying in the area, be sure to inquire about their inn rooms located upstairs from the bistro.
  • I love to pack a bit of tasty jerky for my mountain adventures. Bear Ridge Smokehouse definitely fills the bill with great jerky, custom meats, custom butchering, and smoked meats. (Daily, 9am – 5:30pm, Saturday to 5pm, closed Sundays.)

Maybe you don’t want to gear up for an epic hike. Maybe you want to relax in a cool theatre or peruse some vintage goods. Never fear, downtown Morton has you covered! Hit up these locations during your Morton visit and enjoy the scene:

  • Recently renovated, the charming Morton Roxy Theater (c. 1937) features first-run movies, community theatre, an events space, live music, and a gallery featuring local artists. They’ve got it all!
  • Directly across the street from the Roxy Theatre, the cute and eclectic Rabbit Hole features a great variety of clothing, antiques, home goods, and more. (Open Tuesday – Friday, 10am – 5pm and Saturday, 11am – 4pm.)
  • For a great selection of local artisan goods, head to the seasonal Morton Farmers Market in the downtown area. Typically open from May thru September on Saturdays from 10am – 2pm, they also feature bazaars during the holiday season.

As I continued east on US-12, I saw a sign for Riffe Lake and decided to give it a look. Given what I learned of the area’s history, I’m so glad I did. Once home to the towns of Kosmos, Riffe and Neskia before being flooded over by the Mossyrock Dam in 1968, the area is now home to Riffe Lake. The towns were “relocated,” (i.e. townspeople were forced to leave) but the actual building foundations and more still remain at the bottom of the lake. Today’s lake supports all manner of outdoor activities including boating, fishing, swimming, and hiking in the areas surrounding the lake. Occasionally, the water level of the lake decreases and during these times, portions of the submerged towns can still be seen.

After investigating Riffe Lake and its eerie history, I continued east on US-12 towards the town of Packwood, and the gateway to Mt. Rainier National Park. That said, there was no way I could miss a stop at the iconic Huff & Puff Drive-in located in the Randle area. Located directly off of US-12 and open daily from 11am – 7pm, this classic drive-in features delicious burgers, fries, shakes, and more. Huff & Puff is also an appropriately named run at nearby White Pass Ski Area. I always think of those burgers as a reward as I huff and puff my way through that run…

Also located in the greater Randle area are some beautiful hiking areas. The Goat Creek Trail / Cathedral Falls hike can be found off of Kosmos Road and features some lovely waterfall scenes. (NW Forest Pass required) If you need still more waterfall shots, check out the Covel Creek Trail & Angel Falls Loop, just south of Randle off of SR-131. (Cispus Road) This trail is very hikeable for families and accessible in the winter months. And one of these days, if the road is open and not filled with snow or landslides, I want to take SR-131 to Forest Road 25 and head further towards the Mt. Saint Helens area. One of these days!

I was getting close to wrapping up my Lewis County adventure, but not before visiting the town of Packwood. Nestled in the shadow of towering Mt. Rainier and surrounded by stunning wilderness areas, Packwood plays a strategic part in current and past Washington State development. An excellent place to learn more about the history and importance of this area is at the White Pass Country Historical Museum, located right off of US-12. It features well-curated displays and a welcoming, knowledgeable staff. (Summer hours – Thursday – Saturday, 11am – 4pm. Winter hours are Saturdays, Noon – 4pm.) For current activities and more info about Packwood and surrounding areas, don’t miss a stop at the Packwood Visitor Center. (Open Thursday – Monday, 9am – 4pm. Closed Tuesday/Wednesday.)

Packwood is a great place to visit year-round. That said, I’m typically in the area during the winter, on my way to White Pass Ski Area. However, my most recent visit was during the summer and I’m so glad I took some time out to explore the area and enjoy Packwood’s warm weather offerings. I love a good farmer’s market and the Packwood Saturday Market was a great stop. I picked up some amazing lavender goods from Randle’s Cowlitz Falls Lavender Company and loved taking in the lavender smell amidst the stately pine trees. (Seasonally, Saturdays, 9am – 1pm) Additionally, the ginormous Packwood Flea Market is not to be missed. (Memorial Day and Labor Day weekends, 9am to dusk. On US-12 and Snyder Road – over a mile long!)

Should you want to take a longer stay in Packwood, check out the Historic Hotel Packwood. (c. 1912) It’s a newly renovated boutique hotel with eight rooms and one cabin, and celebrates the history of the area. (Note: Rooms/Cabin are for guests 18+) If you’re looking for something more rustic, head to the cabins and bunkhouse at Packwood Station. The area used to house the Packwood Ranger Station for Gifford National Forest and has been renovated to accommodate lodging. (Buildings c. 1929 – 1964)

While relatively small, Packwood features several great dining options and in keeping with its strategic location, is a great place to stop when heading home from mountain adventures. I’ve personally visited Packwood many times during and after ski adventures. Here are a few of my favorite spots:

  • Stop by the ski-themed Cliff Droppers for tasty burgers and hand-crafted pizzas. Be sure to pair your meal with a Rainier tallboy! Open Wednesday – Sunday, 11am – 6:45. (5:45 on Sunday) Closed Monday/Tuesday.
  • I love this crazy place. The Blue Spruce Saloon & Diner is a family-friendly, diner and dive bar with great food and an always interesting scene. Many a successful ski-day have been celebrated here. Open daily from 11am – 11pm. (9am on Saturday/Sunday)
  • If you’re looking for good pizza, burger, or maybe a classic breakfast dish, stop by Cruiser’s Pizza and enjoy! Open daily, 9am – 8pm (8am Saturday/Sunday)
  • A good cup of coffee is an important thing, any time of day. I’ve found The Mountain Goat Coffee Company nicely fills all of my caffeine-focused needs. The atmosphere is quaint and regularly filled with locals. Try the baked goods! Open daily, 7am – 5pm.
  • If you’re looking for a spot to stretch your legs on a sunny afternoon, stop by the Packwood Brewing Co. I absolutely love this place, along with their delicious Cowlitz Kolsch. They also have a small menu which includes hot dogs, brats, nachos, tacos, pretzels, and quesadillas. All great accompaniments for their great brews! Open weekdays from 3-9pm, Friday from 1-10pm, weekends from 9am – 10pm, Sunday to 9pm. (Weekend breakfast from 9-11:30am)

Keep going east on US-12 and you’ll come to the aforementioned, beyond compare White Pass Ski Area. You can’t miss it as it’s located directly beside US-12 and features a ton of old-school ski-hill charm and amazing snow. (Check out my Yakima County article for a more detailed description of the area.) For this journey, however, I chose to head home via US-12 and SR-123. This summertime route takes you into spectacular Mt. Rainier National Park and over to SR-410. It’s an amazing drive and gives you a great look at the park without having to pay the entrance fee. It can get pretty crowded, however, and you might get some extra time to check out the scenery if caught behind a motorhome – or someone unfamiliar with curvy mountain roads… On the topic of Mt. Rainier, I plan on devoting an entire article to the area as there are so many amazing areas to celebrate. Stay tuned!

  • Pro Tip 1: SR-123 is closed during the winter and SR-410 is closed at the Crystal Mountain access road during the winter. Also be sure to check roads year-around for washouts and other closures. With the help of much snowplowing, US-12 remains open throughout the year. (Most of the time. Know before you go.)
  • Pro Tip 2: Beginning summer of 2024, visitors entering Mt. Rainier National Park from the Nisqually, Stevens Canyon, and Sunrise/White River entrance stations during peak hours (7am – 3pm) will need reservations.

Before meeting up with SR-123, look for the turn-off on US-12 to La Wis Wis Guard Station No. 1165. Included on the National Register of Historic Places, it was built by the CCCs in 1928. Not only was it an important part of developing routes through the state, it now houses a great campground, hiking areas, fishing, and biking. It’s also in an excellent location from which to explore Mt. Rainier National Park as well as the expansive Gifford Pinchot National Forest. (Note: La Wis Wis Campground was closed in 2023 for renovations and repairs. It is planned to reopen in 2024.)

Should you feel like checking out more of the natural splendor of the area, there are nearly countless options. Here are a few more areas to explore in this spectacularly beautiful part of the state:

  • Travel in the historic footsteps of Native Americans on the Cowlitz Trail. This trail was used for millennia by the Yakama and Cowlitz tribes crossing back and forth over the mountains via Cowlitz Pass. Head east on US-12 out of Packwood for nine miles and turn left onto Forest Road 4510 and follow it to the Soda Springs trailhead. You can also access the lovely Frying Pan Loop trail off of the Cowlitz Trail.
  • Stop by the Ohanapecosh area off of SR-123 for amazing camping and hiking in old-growth forests. Don’t miss a stop at the very informative visitor center. Chat with a ranger and learn more about the flora and fauna of the area and the incredible bio-diversity of Mt. Rainier National Park. (Note: Ohanapecosh is not accessible in the winter months.)
  • For summer hiking, the Eastside Trail is an epic, 13.3-mile, one-way trail to stunning Chinook Pass out of the Ohanapecosh Campground. Parking/access is also available at the Grove of the Patriarchs parking lot, but the actual Grove of the Patriarchs is temporarily closed due to a footbridge washout. (I hope it reopens soon as it’s a lovely, very accessible walk among the giants.) If you’re up for a longer adventure with some tent camping along the way, make it a roundtrip, 26.6-mile adventure. (Don’t forget to get your backcountry permit at the ranger station.) Or consider having a buddy pick you up at the Chinook Pass parking lot and then drive you back to Ohanapecosh. OR – park at Chinook Pass and do the hike in reverse! (A NW Forest Pass is required to park at Chinook Pass.) Any way you hike it, this is a pretty cool way to cross this part of the state.

Well alrighty. That was quite a journey! While it’s completely possible to take a very enjoyable day trip through Lewis County, I thoroughly recommend taking at least a few days to explore. I was able to pack in quite a bit during my initial day trip, but I will admit to coming back for a longer, weekend trip as well. I might’ve also mixed in some travels from past visits to the area. I will neither confirm nor deny. The bottom line is Lewis County occupies a beautiful part of the state and an important spot in my heart. I will never tire of visiting the area and enjoying all it has to offer. I hope you’re able to do the same!

Until next time – Safe travels!

SPOTIFY PLAYLIST – Some tunes to accompany you on your Lewis County adventure

  • The Secret Sun – Jesse Harris (from The Secret Sun)
  • These Wheels – Gabe Dixon (from Turns to Gold)
  • Closer to Fine – Brandi Carlile, Catherine Carlile (from Barbie The Album)
  • So Familiar – Steve Martin, Edie Brickell (from So Familiar)
  • All the Lilacs in Ohio – John Hiatt, Jerry Douglas (from Leftover Feelings)
  • Gettin’ Happy – Dolly Parton (from Love Is Like A Butterfly)
  • Buckets of Rain – Redbird (from Redbird)
  • The Old North Woods – Béla Fleck (from My Bluegrass Heart)
  • The Imperial March (Darth Vader’s Theme) – John Williams, London Symphony Orchestra (from Star Wars The Empire Strikes Back)
  • The Tale of Mr. Morton – Skee-Lo (from School House Rock! Rocks)
  • Wildflowers – Tom Petty (from Wildflowers)
  • I Was Made For Sunny Days – The Weepies, Deb Talan, Steven Tannen (from Be My Thrill)
  • Driving Without Purpose – Ylvis (from Stories From Norway: Northug)
  • Huff and Puff – Janeen Brady (from Standin’ Tall, Vol. 6: Happiness)
  • Training Montage – The Mountain Goats (from Bleed Out)
  • Carry on Wayward Son – Kansas (from Leftoverture)
  • Come Sail Away – Styx (from The Grand Illusion)
  • Any Way You Want It – Journey (from Departure)
  • You Really Got Me – Van Halen (from Van Halen)
  • Stone Cold – Rainbow (from Straight Between The Eyes)
  • Humble & Kind – Tim McGraw (from Damn Country Music)
  • Linger – Jenny Slate (from Marcel the Shell With Shoes On (Unplugged))
Olympic Club Hotel
Cheers! And happy trails!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Please join me on more I Ate the State adventures!

I Ate the State – Okanogan County

Greetings!

Welcome to the largest county in Washington State, Okanogan County. Seriously, this county is ENORMOUS! In fact, I’d go as far to say it is ginormous – and filled with an equally large bevy of adventure-filled opportunities. I am absolutely blown away by the size and scale of the county every time I’m lucky enough to visit. Towering mountains, beautiful forests, winding rivers and some of the darkest, star-filled skies in North America are just a few of Okanogan County’s stunning attributes. It would take many trips to cover all it has to offer, but please join me as I pay tribute to the amazing areas I’ve visited thus far.

North Cascades
The North Cascades are calling!

There are many ways to hit up Okanogan County, including via our lovely neighbor, Canada. It is also possible to visit Okanogan County via the 440-mile Cascade Loop as it circles through King, Snohomish, Chelan, Skagit and Okanogan counties. This amazing route was recently and appropriately designated a National Scenic Byway in January of 2021. It is a fantastic way to visit the state and a beautiful representation of everything Washington has to offer.

Included as part of the Cascade Loop is the North Cascades Scenic Byway, also known as SR-20. Opened in 1972 to accommodate area hydroelectric projects as well as access to the newly created North Cascades National Park (1968), it is the longest highway in Washington. It is possible to traverse the entire state, beginning from coastal US-101 and ending at the border with Idaho. If you want to experience an amazing cross-section of the state’s bounty, SR-20 is the way to go!

Travel Alert: Okanogan County typically deals with very serious wildfires throughout the summer months. Portions of SR-20 and other thoroughfares are periodically closed and many trails, campsites, homes, lodges, etc. can close or experience various levels of evacuation. Please check the WSDOT before traveling and follow all fire stages and restrictions whenever in forested and dry areas. Be smart. Be safe!

Since Okanogan County is so large, it took me a few visits to experience even the moderate amount of adventures I’m about to share. I took different routes in and out of the county, but for this take, we’ll start out heading east on SR-20, off of I-5 in the Burlington area. (A great alternative off of I-5 is SR-530 to Darrington and then over to SR-20 near Rockport.) When the North Cascades pass is closed during the winter, another great route out of the Seattle area is via I-90 to Cle Elum and then SR-970­ to US-97 and Blewett Pass. US-97 will then meet up with US-2 at Peshastin and then back to US-97 at Orondo. Once in Okanogan County, take SR-153 from Pateros to head towards Twisp and Winthrop or stay on US-97 north towards Okanogan and the Canadian border. If you’re heading over from the eastern side of the state, US-395 out of the Spokane to SR-20 at Kettle Falls is great, as is US-395 out of the Tri-Cities area to SR-17 in Mesa and on to US-97.

The route via SR-20 through Skagit and Whatcom counties is spectacular. There are so many things to see and do along the way and so many glorious distractions. Eyes on the road, lovely travelers – we’re headed towards Okanogan County! That said, if you’re headed along SR-20, it would be road trip silliness to not check out a few of the more amazing spots along the way. I double-dog dare you to pass up these surreally beautiful sights on your next trip through the area. (Don’t actually take my dare – check out the sights!)

  • Directly off of SR-20 is the amazing Gorge Creek and Gorge Lake interpretive trail. The waterfall itself is breathtaking and can be viewed via a careful walk across the highway from the parking area. Even if you’re not a fan of heights, the area is well worth investigating.  
  • The deep turquoise, glacial waters of Diablo Lake blow me away every time I see them. There is much to do in the area, but taking a ride with the Diablo Lake Dam Tour, operated out of the very cool North Cascades Institute, is a great way to experience the area in a few hours. (Also a pick-up point for the Diablo Lake Ferry which heads to the incredibly unique, floating Ross Lake Resort.) Hit up my Whatcom County article for a more detailed view of the area.
  • If you don’t have time to stop at Diablo Lake proper, a quick stop at Diablo Lookout is a must! The views are soaring and everywhere you look presents the most perfect picture you’ve ever seen. (Pro Tip: It’s also a rest area and there aren’t many along this route. Just sayin’.)

Alrighty. After all that preamble and amazing roadway, we have at last arrived in Okanogan County! I will also commend you (and me!) for your fortitude while traversing over the formidable Washington Pass. (This part of SR-20 is very appropriately closed during the winter.) The North Cascades have been nicknamed “The Alps of North America,” and the comparison is well-deserved. This area is a haven for mountaineers, hikers and skiers alike, but even if you’re just heading over the pass, a stop at the Washington Pass Observation Site is a worthy adventure. At around 5500 feet, the views of Liberty Bell Mountain, Early Winters Spires and the highway as it snakes through the valley are awe-inspiring. The Alps are certainly something to behold, but the North Cascades are in a class of grandeur all their own.

After maneuvering through the impressive twists and turns of Washington Pass, the highway descends towards the idyllic, mountain town of Mazama and the enchanting Methow Valley. Washington has its fair share of stunning locales, but I can honestly say I’d move to the Mazama area tomorrow if it were possible. The most amazing scenery imaginable, all the outdoor adventure opportunities you could ever desire and the peaceful bliss of dark, star-studded skies can all be found in Mazama. While the area is rugged and doesn’t cater to modern convenience, it is not without its charms. A few places not to miss in the Mazama area:

  • If I lived in Mazama, I’d be at the incredibly cool, local institution, The Mazama Store every day. I’d have a regular table inside or a spot in their super-cool, outdoor courtyard. I’d eat one (or several) of their ridiculously tasty baked goods with several cups of their excellent coffee – in my personal mug. (OMG – their cream-cheese filled Everything Bagel!) I’d get my groceries, gas and takeaway food there. I’m pretty sure they’d be sick of me, but I wouldn’t leave. I can’t quit you, Mazama Store! And I would most certainly hang out at their yearly, Christmas at the End of the Road celebration. Cheers, Mazama! (Store open daily, 7am – 6pm. Gas 24hrs.)
  • Located conveniently behind the Mazama Store, The Goat’s Beard Mountain Supply has everything you need for exploring the local splendor. Gear sales and rentals available year-round, they have bikes, skis, snowshoes and more. A perfect spot to hit up before setting out on the amazing Methow Trails trailhead, located very close by. (Store open daily, 9am – 6pm)
  • Enjoy the ranch life at Freestone Inn at Wilson Ranch. (c. 1940s ranch) A lovely lodge and cabin layout feature 36 units with lake or forest view. For dining, check out their Sandy Butte Bistro, Moonshine Bar and Jack’s Hut. (Note: Dining options currently closed Monday/Tuesday. Check online for updates.) They are also located along the beautiful Sandy Butte Trail and are close to the Early Winters Campground and Early Winters Trail.
  • Close to cross-country ski trails and year-round activities, check out the Mazama Country Inn for their cozy inn and cabins. They also feature onsite yoga and tennis as well as a seasonal restaurant.

One of the biggest draws to the area is the undeniably spectacular North Cascades National Park. Featuring 300 glaciers, soaring mountain peaks, rugged terrain and lush forest, it is one of America’s most glorious gems. Just next door is the winner for *Best Supporting Forest in a Gorgeous Nature Scene, the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest. You truly can’t go wrong wherever you end up in this expansive, amazing setting. (*Not a real award, but should be)

If you’re up for an adrenaline rush and a view of all this majesty from the highest drivable point in Washington, take a trip to Slate Peak Lookout, located above Hart’s Pass. The road ends at 7488 feet at the Slate Peak parking area and is a narrow, steep gauntlet of unpaved twists and turns, complete with no guardrails. (Important note: Trailers are not allowed and RVs are highly discouraged.) Once you’re at the parking lot, it’s a half-mile hike to the lookout. If you happen to be in the area at night, I’ve heard the dark skies are filled with an absolute blanket of stars. Dreamy! (Side note: I totally got sucked into watching videos of people driving up the road. Yikes!)

Pro Tip: While there are no fees required to drive through the North Cascades National Park, they are often involved for parking within the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest. Various National Park trails actually begin within the National Forest and could require a NW Forest Pass.

If you’d like to do some hiking, backpacking and camping or perhaps a climb in the park, there are SO many wonderful options for your adventure. For something epic, the 2650-mile Pacific Crest Trail runs through the south part of park and the 1200-mile Pacific Northwest Trail (WA, MT, ID) traverses through the upper-north of the state, through the park and down towards the coast. (Note: All overnight camping within the park requires a park Backcountry Permit.) Good spots to join up with the Pacific Crest Trail are off of SR-20 near the Rainy Pass Trailhead, the Cutthroat Lake trailhead or via the aforementioned Hart’s Pass.

For something not quite as involved, but equally epic and beautiful, consider these great backpacking and camping spots for your next trip to the North Cascades and Mazama area:

  • For the perfect combo of stunning views and a loop trail, check out the Heather-Maple Pass Loop off of SR-20, across from the Rainy Pass Trailhead.
  • Located in the area of the Washington Pass Lookout, Blue Lake is a very reasonable 2-mile hike from SR-20. The elevation gain is relatively low (1050 ft) and makes for a lovely family daytrip. You might even see a mountain goat!
  • Sporting some pretty amazing scenery and backcountry camping, Easy Pass and the Fisher Creek Trails offer a splendid cross-section of North Cascades glory. Park at the trailhead at milepost 151 on SR-20 to start your adventure.
  • For an amazing view, head to the historic Goat Peak Lookout and revel in the wonder of the North Cascades and Methow Valley.
  • Following along with the goat theme, Goat Wall Overlook offers yet another spectacular view of the North Cascades and Methow Valley and is easily reached from Mazama proper.
  • For great forest, flowers and more, the Robinson Creek Trail and the West Fork Methow Trail are very enjoyable hikes. (Hot tip: The Pacific Crest Trail can also be accessed from the West Fork Methow Trail.) If you’re up for camping in the area, the River Bend Campsite and Ballard Campground are good options. (Note: A NW Forest Pass is required for the Robinson Creek Trail and Ballard Campground areas.)

I am a creature of the snow. Winter is coming! (Doesn’t matter what time of year you might be reading this article…) The North Cascades are known for their stellar climbing challenges, both rock and alpine, and I dream of conquering even a small portion. Those snowy heights are within reach. I know it! (Gear up and grab the 10 Essentials first, but the mountains are calling!) In addition to climbing, the North Cascades and Methow Valley offer some of the country’s (nay, world’s) best cross-country skiing opportunities. Should you feel inspired to don your Gore-Tex and hit the winter wonderland, here are just a few of the snowy possibilities:

  • There are SO many amazing places to climb in the North Cascades. WOW. If you’ve got nerves of steel and a love of heights, the iconic Liberty Bell awaits. Forbidden Peak is considered one of the top, classic climbs in North America and is a surefire adrenaline rush. Add to that list, Sharkfin Tower, the Goat Wall and Eldorado Peak and you’re looking at some serious mountaineering magnificence.
  • If you’d like an assist with your ascent, hit up the experts at North Cascades Mountain Guides for both alpine and rock adventures – year-round! (Open Monday – Friday, 9am – 3pm and Saturday/Sunday, 8am – 5pm)
  • The North Cascades and Methow Valley support an incredible Nordic scene which includes cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and fat-biking. In operation since the 1970s, the non-profit Methow Trails system is now North America’s largest cross-country ski area. Working with local landowners to allow access to private land, the groomed trails feature over 120-miles of snowy opportunity. One can even ski town to town and lodge to lodge – just like in Europe! Methow Trails also support some pretty amazing summer action as well.
  • In addition to climbing expeditions, North Cascade Mountain Guides also offer ski tours in North Cascades National Park. You could even try your hand (and legs!) at heli-skiing or backcountry touring with local outfit, North Cascades Heli.
  • Perhaps you’d like to sit down while enjoying your snowy adventuring. If snowmobiling is your jam, there are many amazing areas to hit up in the Methow Valley. Yellowjacket Sno-Park provides access to excellent snowmobile trails in the Hart’s Pass and Blackpine Basin areas. Eightmile Sno-Park, located out of Winthrop on West Chewuch Road is another great area to check out. Visit the Methow Valley Snowmobiling Association for local tips and be sure to have your Sno-Park and snowmobiling permits sorted out. (Required November thru March)
Liberty Bell
Liberty Bell, stunning with snow or without!

Heading east through the Methow Valley towards Winthrop is a beautiful adventure in and of itself. Any time of the year you happen to be in this area is guaranteed to be an extraordinary experience. Featuring snow-covered pastures and scenery in the winter, idyllic harvest colors in the fall and abundant flora and fauna in the warmer months, the area is a picture-perfect wonderland.

Longtime stewards of the valley, the Methow People, now part of the Confederated Tribes of the Colville Reservation have cherished the area for millennia. Flowing through this beautiful valley, the Methow River was a vital part of the Methow Peoples’ lives and to this day is an extremely integral part of valley life. A fine way to experience this timeless splendor is with a horseback riding adventure or a hike along the Methow Community Trail. Take a stop on the lovely Tawlks-Foster Suspension Bridge and take in the river scene. (Groomed for skiers in the winter!) The Methow Valley is always striking and not to be missed on your Okanogan County adventure.

Continuing through the Methow Valley on SR-20 will bring you directly into the very unique town of Winthrop. As you enter town, you might question if you’ve just stumbled into an Old West movie set. Nope – it’s just a typical day in Winthrop! Feel free to bust out your chaps and ride in on a horse, but more modern methods of transportation are equally welcome. In fact, on a busy weekend day, you’ll be lucky to snag one of the parking spots in the center of town. (SR-20 is the main route through town.)

While there are many aspects of early settler life that remain in Winthrop, the “western” feel of the town was inspired by the opening of SR-20 in 1972. Local merchants contributed $1000 each and a new era of industry began. Along with general updates, false facades were rebuilt, sidewalks were replaced with boardwalks and a “Westernization Code” was put in play. (In effect to this day.) Similar to what the nearby town of Leavenworth also accomplished, the town modernized its tourist appeal by taking a step back in time. Everything old is new again! (I say that to myself every birthday.)

Just as is the scene in nearby Mazama, outdoor activities and beautiful views are plentiful in Winthrop any time of the year. Whether you’re into cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, fat biking, ice-skating, hockey, hiking, camping or fishing, Winthrop has you covered. And that’s just the short list! Even if you simply want to sit out at night and marvel at the wonderfully dark skies or look out from your hotel deck onto the Methow and Chewuch rivers as they converge, Winthrop can accommodate you. It is truly an excellent town to spend a spell. And maybe water your horse…

If you’re anything like me, you’re likely pretty hungry (and thirsty!) after all of that adventuring. Even if you were only sitting by the river, that takes some concentration! Which surely burns some amount of calories, right?? At any rate, it’s a very wise plan to spend some time enjoying the food and beverage scene in Winthrop. It may be a small area, but Winthrop certainly packs in some delicious options! Here are some of my favorite spots in Winthrop:

  • Featuring delicious craft cocktails and locally sourced ingredients, Copper Glance is an excellent place to enjoy a meal. The atmosphere is modern, but is set in a historic Winthrop locale. (Open Thursday – Saturday, 4-pm)
  • I absolutely love the Old Schoolhouse Brewery. If it’s a nice day, head directly to the beautiful riverside seating, overlooking the Chewuch River. I particularly enjoy their Methow Blonde with one of their amazing burgers or an order of Totchos. They also regularly feature live music in the summer. (Open Monday – Thursday, 3-8pm, Friday/Saturday, Noon – 9pm, Sunday, Noon – 8pm)
  • If you’re in need of a sugar fix, don’t miss a stop at the popular Sheri’s Sweet Shoppe. It can be a bit touristy on a busy weekend, but the delicious treats are worth the wait. (Open daily, 7am – 6pm. Open seasonally.)
  • I have a very special place in my heart for the fabulous Rocking Horse Bakery. Perhaps I’ll tell you the story one of these days… Don’t miss the amazing carrot cake and cup of their always excellent coffee. They feature Lariat Coffee Roasters which are conveniently located next door! I truly love this place. (Open Thursday – Monday, 7am – 2pm. Closed Tuesday/Wednesday.)
  • My brother and I enjoyed some seriously delicious pizza at East 20 Pizza. Featuring excellent pizza along with great beer and a fun atmosphere, it’s an all-around enjoyable place to stop. (Open daily, 3-8pm.)
  • Should you be feeling a little fancy during your Winthrop visit, head to the Arrowleaf Bistro for a delicious evening. Their menu features locally-sourced ingredients and a modern flair. Check out the roasted quail with local Bluebird Grain Farms farro! (Open for dinner, Thursday – Sunday, 5-9pm)
  • Featuring apples they grow themselves, the Methow Valley Cider House is a great place for cider and food. They also have the Apple Amphitheatre for live events and music. (Winter 2022 – Open daily, 12-8pm, closed Wednesdays.)
  • Stop in at the tasting room of boutique, family-owned Lost River Winery and enjoy a glass or two. A nice glass of Cab on a fall afternoon… yes, please! (Friday – Sunday, 11am – 5pm)
  • Offering tastings and small plates, the Brix Wine Bar & Bottle Shop is a lovely spot to both relax with a glass and replenish your wine rack. (Open Wednesday, 4-9pm, Thursday – Sunday, 1-5pm, 6pm on Friday/Saturday – Closed Monday/Tuesday)
  • If you’d like to take home a bit of the area bounty, stop by the Winthrop Farmers Market and stock up! (Sundays, 10am – 2pm in Winthrop Park. Spring thru Fall)

The very strollable boardwalks in Winthrop not only host excellent dining options, but feature several wonderful shops. Grab a good book, gear up for your outdoor adventures or stock up on crafting items – Winthrop has what you need. A few of the excellent shopping possibilities for your next visit:

  • In addition to a great supply of crafting, quilting and gift items, the 3 Bears Café & Quilts also offers casual breakfasts and great coffee in their inviting shop. Located at the east end town, it is well worth a stop. (Winter hours: Thursday – Monday, 10:30am – 5:30pm. Closed Tuesday/Wednesday)
  • If you’d like to cozy up in your cabin, stop by the charming Trail’s End Bookstore and grab something for your weekend library. (Open Wednesday – Sunday, 10am – 6pm and Monday/Tuesday, 10am – 3pm)
  • Forget your ski poles? Need some cool new hiking boots? Stop in at Winthrop Mountain Sports and let them outfit you. They can fill your Nordic ski needs and rentals as well as hook you up with a sweet kayak. (Open daily, 9:30am – 6pm, 9am – 6pm on Saturday, 5pm on Sunday)
  • Backpacks, tents, Nordic ski gear and more! The very cool Cascades Outdoor Store has everything needed to trick out your outdoor adventures. (Sunday – Thursday, 9am – 6pm, Friday/Saturday, 9am – 5pm)
  • Should you plan on braving the local rivers, hit up Methow River Raft & Kayak and make sure you’re ready to go. In addition to gear and rentals, they also offer guided trips for rafting and kayaking. (Open daily, 10am – 5pm)
  • Want to learn more about the fat bike craze or rest a pair of skis or snowshoes? Stop by Methow Cycle & Sport and let them hook you up with all your year-round sporting needs. (Open daily, 9am – 5:30pm, 5pm on Sunday.)

Whether you want to enjoy some quality indoor time or spend your time trekking on a hiking or x-country trail, there are SO many possibilities in the Winthrop area:

  • Even if you are only passing through Winthrop, make time to visit the fascinating Shafer Museum, situated on a small hill above downtown. This step back in time features well-curated indoor exhibits as well as an extensive outdoor collection of mining implements and more. Open daily, 10am – 5pm in summer. (May 9th – September 19th) Note: The museum is also open in winter, but the buildings are closed and snow doesn’t get cleared. Also open by appointment year-round.
  • Looking to see that cool new indie film or catch a live performance from a NW band? The Barnyard Cinema is the place to be! Along with movies and live music, they also have a concession stand and a lounge with beer, wine and coffee.
  • In addition to the stellar Nordic scene, there are other chilly options to explore while in town. Head to the Winthrop Ice and Sports Rink for ice skating and hockey during your winter visit. This all-season rink also has roller/inline skating, roller hockey and pickleball in the summer. Check out their online schedule for more info.
  • In addition to the excellent, year-round outdoor opportunities of the Methow Trails, there are many other areas to check out. The Pipestone Canyon Rim Trail between Winthrop and Twisp and the Sa Teekh Wa Trail (Riverwalk Trail) via the beautiful Sa Teekh Wa Suspension Bridge are excellent options. Just out of Winthrop on East Chewuch Road is Falls Creek Falls with its lovely, 2.6-mile roundtrip trail to a series of falls. If you want to extend your trip to the area, hit up the Falls Creek Campground for some further outdoor adventure.
  • Perhaps you rolled into town with your ski boat or jet skis. If you’re looking for a place to put in, head to Pearrygin Lake State Park located just outside of Winthrop. It’s a great state park with camping, boating, fishing and winter Nordic opportunities. (Discover Pass required)

There are so many beautiful lodging options in Winthrop and surrounding areas. In addition to the large list of local hotels, lodges, cabins and campgrounds, there are also many opportunities available via sites like Airbnb and Vrbo. It does, however, get pretty busy in the summer months in particular. Book early for your adventures! A few of the excellent places where you can rest up from your adventuring:

  • Overlooking Winthrop and the valley, the Sun Mountain Lodge has much to offer from its spectacular, mountaintop perch. Even if you’re not staying at the lodge, the amazing views and beautiful drive are worth your time. If you are lucky enough to be staying there, be sure to check out the spa, excellent wine cellar, gift shop, pool and comfortable lodging. I wasn’t actually staying there on my last visit, but that didn’t stop me from enjoying a delicious breakfast in their restaurant – AND a gorgeous view! Part of the Methow Trails system, there are winter trails for cross-country skiing, fat-biking, snowshoeing and summer trails for hiking, biking and horseback riding. There is truly something for everyone at Sun Mountain Lodge.
  • I’ve stayed at the Hotel Rio Vista and very much enjoyed my time there. It’s more of a traditional motel setup, but what sets it apart are the river views from each room’s private deck. A glass of wine, the river and those star-filled skies? Dreamy!
  • The River’s Edge Resort is located appropriately on the Chewuch River in downtown Winthrop.  Featuring a series of charming cabins, some with their own hot tubs, the resort is an excellent place to spend your holiday.
  • Situated on the Methow River, River Run Inn & Cabins feature lovely rooms, cabins and a 6-bedroom house. They also have an indoor pool and hot tub, large grounds and a fire circle by the river. Methow River Raft & Kayak also offer trips leaving directly from the inn. Adventure at your doorstep!
  • Not only does the Spring Creek Ranch have lodging and host beautiful weddings and events, they are also well known for their alfalfa. Throw a wedding, rent a cabin and grab a bale (or ton!) of alfalfa from their 6-acre farm. All the things!
  • In addition to cozy rooms and complimentary breakfasts in their lodge, the Chewuch Inn also has seven cabins and lovely grounds which include a small, organic orchard.
  • Hit up The Virginian Resort & Hotel for their cozy, western-themed cabins and rooms with tranquil river views. I’m giving them extra points for having a groovy “1969” themed cabin.

As the area can get incredibly dry during the long, hot summers, the danger of wildfires runs extremely high. This danger has been increasing over the years, making the need for a rapid-deployment fire-fighting presence incredibly important and necessary. Enter the North Cascades Smokejumper Base. Located between Winthrop and nearby Twisp at the Methow Valley State Airport, the base supports the local firefighting effort, including the specialized smokejumper crew.

In 1939, Methow Valley became the birthplace of smoke-jumping. Today, there are nine primary locations in the western part of the US and Alaska. These bases support around 400 smokejumpers and owe their existence to the first crew out of the Methow Valley. If they’re not otherwise engaged in fighting fires, the base is open June 1st thru October 1st for free tours. (Daily, 10am – 5pm) The tour includes a museum and smokejumper planes. Go check out what these brave women and men do!

After visiting with the smokejumpers, hop back on SR-20 and head towards the wonderful town of Twisp. This little paradise of a town is well-known as an artist’s haven and even a quick visit easily showcases this claim. Packed into its relatively small borders lie tasty food options, top-notch galleries and beautiful outdoor possibilities. You won’t want to miss taking in the charms of Twisp.

On your next visit through the area, fuel up for your Twisp adventures at these delicious spots:

  • Don’t miss a stop at the iconic Cinnamon Twisp Bakery. Not only do they feature super tasty pastries, they also feature excellent breakfast bagel sandwiches and lunch offerings. Open Wednesday – Sunday, 7am – 3pm, Closed Monday/Tuesday.
  • For wood-fired, tasty Italian goodness, reserve a spot at Tappi. Enjoy pizza, pasta, delicious wines and more! (Open Friday – Tuesday, 5-7:30pm. Closed Wednesday/Thursday)
  • Who doesn’t love a bahn mi sandwich, a tasty burger or maybe a Korean fried chicken sandwich? YUM!! Check out the Fork food truck, located seasonably on the TwispWorks campus. (May thru mid-October, Wednesday – Saturday. Check online for hours.)
  • If you’re looking for a great cup of coffee, stop in at Blue Star Coffee Roasters and get your caffeine fix. Visit the coffee roasting plant where you can get fresh pastries and coffee onsite or order online. (They have a coffee subscription deal!) Open Monday – Saturday, 7:30am – 1:30pm.
  • The very cool Glover Street Market, located in the heart of downtown Twisp features a great grocery selection along with a food counter and groovy wine cellar. (Open Monday – Saturday, 9am – 6pm. Kitchen open 9am – 4pm. Closed Sunday.) Note: They’re for sale! If I had money to buy a local grocery spot… Crowd fund me??
  • If you happen to be in town on a Saturday between April and October, stop by the Twisp Farmers Market and stock up on local goods. (AKA: Methow Valley Farmer’s Market) Saturdays, 9am – noon (April – October)

There are so many amazing things to experience in the Twisp area. Want to add a bit of the Arts to your adventure? Done! Consider these creative options for your next stay in the area:

  • Perhaps you’d like to stay right in the middle of all that Twisp action. Drop off your bags at the very cool Twisp River Hotel Suites, located on the lovely Twisp River and relax in style.
  • I’m a sucker for a good vintage or thrift shop. I had a great time perusing the goods at The Thrifty Fox in downtown Twisp. (Open Wednesday thru Saturday, 10am – 4pm. Closed Sunday – Tuesday.)
  • Featuring local artists, the Confluence Gallery is an excellent place to check out all things arty. (Open Thursday – Saturday, 10am – 5pm)
  • Should you be looking for some local theatre or maybe even a theatre camp, check out The Merc Playhouse in downtown Twisp. Check online for upcoming shows and auditions.
  • Located in the downtown area, the Methow Valley Interpretive Center features exhibits and an interpretive garden focusing on indigenous peoples and natural surroundings of the area. They also feature very interesting events and classes. (Open Friday – Sunday, Noon – 4pm, 10am on Saturday)
  • You can find Samantha Carlin’s work in various shops around the area, but Twisp-based Lucid Glassworks is also available online. I picked up a lovely glass from the Sun Mountain gift shop and I’m looking forward to expanding to a full set. (Currently waiting for it to ship, in fact!)
  • For a great opportunity to enjoy all things Twisp and gear up for the holidays, check out their Mistletoe Madness celebration in the downtown area. (December 3rd, 2021 from 3-7pm)

I can’t say enough good about local arts mecca, Twispworks, located in the downtown area. It’s an incredibly cool artist collective, sculpture garden, business incubator and more. A must-stop for your next Twisp visit. A few of the eclectic spots to explore at Twispworks:

  • If you’re looking for tasty beer, visit the OSB Taproom, located on the TwispWorks campus. An extension of Winthrop’s Old Schoolhouse Brewery, this new production facility and adjacent taproom are a great place to spend an afternoon. They also feature Methow Pure sparkling water. (Open Monday – Friday, 3pm – close and Saturday – Sunday, noon to close.)
  • Outside food is welcome at the OSB Taproom and Saskatoon Kitchens is ready to fill the bill. Located on the Twispworks campus, they feature some very tasty items. (Check out their Menu!)
  • Featuring artisan gifts and goods from the Methow Valley and Okanogan County, Methow Valley Goods is the perfect place to stop for that special gift. (Open Monday – Saturday, 11am – 4pm. Also available online!)
  • If you’re in the market for beautiful, hand-dyed wearable art, Culler Studio is the place to be! (Thursday/ Friday, 10am – 4pm, Saturday, 10am – 2pm. Closed Sunday – Wednesday.)
  • Featuring super cool bags, wallets, masks and more, the innovative eqpd is a great place to check out. Their HEPA masks and stadium bags are super rad!  (Monday – Friday, 10am – 4pm, Saturday to 2pm, Closed Sunday)
  • Check out the Fireweed Print Shop for their letterpress facilities and unique hand-printed items. (Open Thursday/Friday, Noon – 4pm and Saturday, 11am – 2pm. Closed Sunday – Wednesday.)
  • As soon as I have a spot to hang one of their one-of-a-kind nests, I’m heading directly to Nice Nests. These species-specific nesting boxes use recycled materials and are absolutely charming. (Call for hours)

Okanogan County has definitely cornered the market on amazing outdoor opportunities and Twisp certainly holds up its part of the bargain. Beauty is everywhere! Here are a few amazing spots from which to view the majesty:

Trees
Take a moment and enjoy the beauty of the area…

After reveling in the artistic grandeur of Twisp, it was time to head back into the surrounding mountains. As a skier, it’s long been on my bucket-list to ski every ski hill in the state. Sadly, I still have a few places on my list and nearby Loup Loup Ski Bowl is one of them. Since I’m located on the west side of the state and the North Cascades pass is closed during the winter, it’s a bit of a haul to get to the area. However, since my most recent trip was in the summer months, I merrily made the trek. (Sans skis, unfortunately.)

Located in between Twisp and Okanogan off of SR-20, Loup Loup is small, but mighty. They have runs to suit all levels as well as cross-country trails and… Luge sledding!! I might just have to make the long winter trek to the area and check it out. A snow cat ferries lugers up the mountain, where an epic-looking ride down then ensues. COOL! And should snowmobiles be more your thing, head to the South Summit Sno-Park and unload your beast. (The area also features groomed cross-country trails.) Located on the south summit of Loup Loup pass.

Pro Tip: For the record, I’m used to driving in snow and I’ve driven my fair share of wacky ski-hill access roads. That said, the portion of SR-20 leading to Loup Loup pass and ski hill is not for the faint of heart, or driver of non-winter-friendly vehicles. Make sure you have chains and/or AWD during the colder months.

Another route out of Twisp is via SR-153. This path heads east towards a more arid region along the Columbia River before meeting with US-97. If you plan to head further north from Twisp, SR-20 is the most direct route, but heading down SR-153 allows a look at a beautiful part of the Columbia River as well as a visit to the nearby towns of Pateros and Brewster.

Located directly on the Columbia River at an especially wide bend in the river, Pateros is a nice place to enjoy a bit of sun. Set at the confluence of the Columbia and Methow Rivers, it is a particularly excellent spot for all water-based endeavors. Nearby Brewster offers many outdoor opportunities and sweeping views of the river. A few options to consider should you be visiting the area:

  • If you’d like to wake up to a view of the beautiful Columbia River, be sure to book Howards on the River for your overnight stay. In addition to the beautiful view, they feature a boat launch to help with your pursuit of watersports. Hit up their Super Stop for gas and groceries and adjacent restaurant, Rivers by Ed’s Mudville for a tasty breakfast, lunch or dinner.
  • Featuring scratch-baked goods, coffee, pizza and more, The Sweetriver Bakery is a great place to stop in the town center. They also feature live music in the summer months on their back patio. (Open daily, 7am – 7pm)
  • Stop in at the Pateros Museum for a look into the history of the area. (City Hall entrance – Open Monday – Friday, 8am – 4:30pm) Don’t miss the Methow Monument Native American sculpture park located behind City Hall near the river. For a more in-depth look into local Native American history and heritage, visit Fort Okanogan Interpretive Center in nearby Brewster. Managed by the Confederated Tribes of the Colville Reservation, the center features an emphasis on the Okanogan Tribe. (Open Wednesday – Friday, 8:30am – 4pm from May – September)
  • If you’re looking for golf action, there are great options in the area. Along with golf, the Pateros Alta Lake Golf Resort features lodging and a café by the name of Scratch. (Café open daily 7am – 3pm, 4pm on Friday/Saturday) Located in Brewster, the Gamble Sands course and their Danny Boy Bar & Grill are also a great choice. (Open daily, 60-min after sunrise – 10pm. Winter hours vary – check online) Lodging can be found at The Inn at Gamble Sands, which features a pool, fire pits and beautiful views of the Columbia River.
  • If you’d prefer to rough it a bit, nearby Alta Lake State Park offers camping, hiking, fishing, wind-surfing and swimming. (Discover Pass required for parking and permit required for boating.)
  • Should you be visiting during the winter, ample snowmobiling and x-country skiing opportunities can be found in the Black Canyon and South Fork Gold Creek sno-park areas. (Sno-Park permits required)
  • The towns of Pateros and Brewster and relatively small, but they do feature some big celebrations. Going since 1947, the Apple Pie Jamboree takes place the third weekend in July and is a great opportunity to indulge your love of pie as well as jet-ski races, fireworks and more. Taking advantage of that big bend in the river, the Pateros Hydro Races feature old-school hydroplanes in all their speedy glory. (August 26-28, 2022)

The most common route when heading north from Pateros and Brewster is via US-97. If you’re partial to roads less traveled, hit up Old Highway 97 off of US-97 in the Brewster area. It’s a lovely, tranquil route with acres of cherry orchards, waving fields of grain and sweeping vistas. That said, there was a bit of road construction on my last trip and several miles of it were unpaved gravel. It was well worth it, however, to experience the area from a less modern perspective. It was very easy to imagine riding horseback through the area en route to the next outpost…

Along the route, there are some excellent places to stop for a rest, enjoy the views and sample the area’s bounty. A couple of options to check out on your trek through the backroads:

  • Pull over in tiny Malott and visit the charming Malott Country Store. Along with all-day breakfast and desserts, they feature coffee, groceries, ice cream and more! (Open Monday – Friday, 9am – 7pm, Saturday, 10am – 7pm and Sunday, 11am – 6pm)
  • Don’t miss a stop at Smallwood Farms, located on SR-20 after the merge with Old Highway 97. Along with being a working farm, it’s a restaurant, fruit stand and grocery/gift store – and they have plenty of picnic space! If you’re into cherries, you’ll be extremely happy with your visit. (in season, of course) The store/restaurant is open seasonally – check online for hours.

After adventuring on Old Highway 97 and merging onto SR-20, it’s not too long before you’re back on the modern US-97. Heading further north on US-97 will soon bring you to the county seat of Okanogan County, fittingly named Okanogan. Established in 1888, Okanogan has long been at the center of local area commerce and culture. Located along the Okanogan River, it continues to serve as an important part of Okanogan County industry and interests.

One of the very interesting stories to be found in Okanogan involves the life and work of artist, Frank Matsura. After emigrating from Japan to the US in the early 1900s, he answered a Seattle newspaper ad and was hired at a hotel in nearby Conconully. During his time at the hotel, he spent his spare time photographing the Okanogan area and eventually moved into Okanogan proper in 1907. He became well known as both a photographer and muralist and contributed greatly to the commemoration of early Okanogan life and heritage. In January of 2022, a 60-foot mural was discovered during renovation of a downtown Okanogan building. (c. 1907) The hand-painted mural is being potentially attributed to Frank Matsura and the building’s new owners are currently working to restore the mural.

To explore the culture, history and industry of Okanogan and surrounding areas, consider these great options for your next visit:

  • Learn more about Frank Matsura and the early days of Okanogan with a visit to the Okanogan County Historical Museum in the downtown area. In addition to the museum, there is a firehouse exhibit next door as well an outdoor, historic Okanogan exhibit. (Open Memorial Day weekend – Labor Day weekend, call for hours/days)
  • For local festivities, entertainment and all things fried, head to the Okanogan County Fair & Rodeo every September and revel in this celebration of the county. If you’re in need of some new boots or a cowboy hat to pep up your rodeo-attending attire, stop in at longtime Okanogan staple, Rawson’s and get yourself outfitted.
  • Enjoy the area bounty and explore offerings from local artisans at the Okanogan Valley Farmers Market. (Saturdays, May thru October, 9am – 1pm. Hot tip: There is also a Tuesday version in nearby Omak from 3:30 – 6:30pm, June thru October.)

Important to any adventure is a great meal and a cozy place to stay. Okanogan can certainly help you out in both departments. On your next visit, check out these fine establishments:

  • For hearty panini sandwiches and fresh salads, head to The 509 – just good food for a tasty lunch. Monday – Friday, 10:30am – 2pm. Closed Sat/Sun
  • If a place features “wieners and wine,” I’m in! The Dawg House, located in the heart of downtown features both as well as delicious BBQ and a respectable tap list – not to mention mouthwatering cheesecake. They also feature live music on weekends and great outdoor seating. (Wednesday – Saturday, 4-8pm)
  • If you’re in the mood for a hearty breakfast or juicy burger, stop by local fav, the Stockyard Café and fill up. Also, they have crinkle fries. Very important to note. (Open Tuesday – Saturday, 7am – 2pm)
  • I require a good cup of coffee (or three) in the morning and drive-thru spot, Free Bird Espresso fully came to the rescue on my recent visit. (Open Monday – Friday, 5:45am – 6pm, Saturday/Sunday, 6:45am – 5pm)
  • There are Vrbo and Airbnb options in the greater Okanogan area, but on my last visit I stayed at the local Quality Inn & Suites. It’s relatively basic, but reasonably priced and the staff was very friendly and helpful. Located close to US-97, it’s well situated as a base for exploring the area.

Not far north on US-97 lies the largest city in Okanogan County, Omak and its suburb, North Omak. The area is famous for its yearly Omak Stampede, but there are many great ways to enjoy the area. Located in the foothills of the Okanogan Highlands, a hilly, mountain range spread across Canada, Washington and Northern Idaho, the dark skies alone are worth a visit. It is also a great base of operations for your northern Washington adventures.

Okanogan is a big county and you’ve likely worked up a big appetite if you’ve made it all the way up to Omak. There are many great options to stave off the hunger on your next visit:

  • Check out the fresh bread and home-style cooking made with locally sourced ingredients in this classic Omak location. (c. 1906) The Breadline Café offers tasty lunch and dinner and is open Tuesday – Friday, 11am – 8pm.
  • Located on the main route through town, Magoo’s Family Restaurant features classic, diner breakfasts all day and hearty lunch options. (Open daily at 7am, 11am on Wednesdays.)
  • Stop in at family-run Red Rooster Grill for classic diner dishes with an international flair. Located in the heart of downtown Omak and open daily from 8am – 9:30pm.
  • Head to the hip, downtown spot, The Loggerhead for artisan pizza, good beer and a fun atmosphere. This family friendly location in downtown Omak is typically open Wednesday – Saturday, 3-9:30pm. (Check online as they are open seasonally – and for the occasional special event in the off-season.)
  • These guys were closed on my last visit, but I WILL be back and I’m planning on a tasty visit. Los Gallos, a restaurant and bar located in downtown Omak features not only Mexican fare, but Chinese as well! That’s a dream fusion, in my foodie opinion. Open daily, 11am – 8pm (11pm, Thursday – Sunday)
  • Located just out of North Omak and flanked by orchards and farmland, the Rockwall Cellars Winery is a nice spot to relax with a glass of wine. In the summer, their tasting room is open Monday – Saturday, 11am – 6pm. During January – April, it’s open Thursday – Saturday, 11am – 5pm. They also host live music and feature “Wine Down Wednesdays” from7-9pm. Bring your own food – there’s a BBQ available for grilling.

I will admit to enjoying a visit here and there to a good casino. Video poker? Yes, please. Is that a Zillion Gators slot machine I see there?? Move out of my way! (Damn. Now I have the ridiculous Zillion Gators theme song stuck in my head. I have no one to blame but myself.) If you’re visiting the Okanogan/Omak area, smack dab in the middle is the 12 Tribes Resort Casino, operated by the Confederated Tribes of the Colville Reservation. Featuring a large array of slots and table games, the casino also hosts several onsite restaurants, hotel and RV lodging and spa facilities. The casino is a hot spot for nightlife and entertainment in the area and a fun evening out. That said, they didn’t actually have Zillion Gators. I looked… Maybe next time?

While there is much to do in the Omak area year-round, one of the most popular attractions takes place over the second weekend in August. The Omak Stampede has been entertaining visitors since 1933 and features western and native art shows, the Indian Encampment & Pow Wow and the famous Suicide Race. Whether or not you’re a fan of horses and their riders careening down an insanely steep trail in the Suicide Race, there are many sights, sounds and tasty treats to enjoy at the Omak Stampede. (August 11-14, 2022 – Always second weekend in August)

If don’t happen to be around during the Stampede festivities, consider these entertaining options for your visit:

  • Featuring first-run films in a classic movie house setting, the Omak & Mirage Theaters in downtown Omak are the places to be. They also host drive-in movies at the Stampede Arena during the summer months.
  • While currently closed during Covid times, the Omak Performing Arts Center hopes to be back soon. Featuring all varieties of performance, both local and touring, they are the premier destination for the performing arts in the area.
  • If you’re looking for a unique getaway, head to Pine Stump Farms­ for one of their package deals. They feature a Country Weekend that comes with food, lodging and excursions of your choice. (Horseback riding, swimming, canoeing or hiking) as well as horseback adventures of varying length. And be sure to try their tasty cheeses on your visit!
  • If enjoying the natural beauty of the area is on your agenda, check out Omak lake, Washington’s largest salt lake. Located in the foothills of the Okanogan Highlands, the area features beaches, camping, fishing, swimming, boating and more. This beautiful area in Colville Federated Tribes land is well worth a visit. (Camping and boat launch permits required.) Also found in the Omak Lake area is the gravity-defying, 40-ton behemoth known as the Omak Balance Rock. You can hold it up with one finger!

If the laid-back scene in Okanogan and Omak still isn’t mellow enough, consider heading towards Conconully on Conconully Road just out of Okanogan. Set in a beautiful mountain valley, Conconully is surrounded by forest, stunningly dark skies, two lakes and an endless variety of outdoor opportunity. Home to snowmobiling, camping, hunting, fishing and more, it’s the perfect place to commune with the sportsperson in you.

Most importantly, it’s home to the annual Outhouse Races. (The 2022 races took place on January 15th) If you’re not inspired to build your own outhouse racer, line up along the course as outhouses careen down the street. True story! Check out the short film, “Fast Crapper” for an in-depth look into this very excellent Conconully tradition.

Whether you’re in the area to enjoy the outdoors or the outhouses, Conconully has some food and lodging options to help you appreciate your stay:

  • Hit up the Conconully General Store for all your gas, groceries, gifts, and treat needs. (And more!) They’ll also be hosting a local vendor market beginning the weekend of April 23rd, 2022.
  • If you’re up for hearty burgers or pizza, stop in at the Red Rock Saloon and trade some fishing tales with your buddies. Open Tuesday – Saturday, 4pm – 2am. Family friendly. (Closed Sunday/Monday)
  • Enjoy a bit of classic breakfast and pub fare at the Sit ‘n Bull Saloon. Open Monday – Thursday, 9am – 11pm, Friday/Saturday, 8am – 11pm and Sunday, 9am – 10pm. Family friendly.
  • If you happen to be in town on the fourth Saturday in September, don’t miss the Stew & Brew event. A mere $15 buys you tastings of several stews and local brews.
  • Learn more about this tiny community at the Conconully Area Historical Museum. (Open weekends and holidays, 10am – 4pm, Memorial Day to Labor Day and by appointment.)
  • There are plenty of great lodging and camping areas in and around Conconully. The Liar’s Cove Resort, Shady Pines Resort and Gibson’s North Fork Lodge all feature cabins and access to local lakes, fishing, boating and more.
  • Also featuring five cabins as well as RV and campsite accommodations, Conconully State Park features ample boating, camping, fishing, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and snowmobiling opportunities. (Discover Pass required. Fishing and boating permits required. Park facilities closed during the winter.)
  • Heading deeper into the forest surrounding Concunully, you’ll find the Salmon Meadows Campground. This area provides access to the Angel Pass Trail as well access to many snowmobiling and horse trails.
US 97
Okanogan Highlands and fruit on US 97

Heading closer to the Canadian border via US-97 will bring you to the tiny town of Tonasket. Fruit is big business in Okanogan County and Tonasket is an important player in the scene. Celebrate their part in one of Washington’s most important industries at these Tonasket spots:

  • Located off of Highway 7, Apple Cart Fruit features farm-fresh fruit throughout the year. Apples, cherries, apricots, peaches, nectarines and more! Open daily, 8am – 5pm, closed Sundays.
  • If you’re in the mood for homemade pie made with local fruit, stop by the quaint Shannon’s Place and dig in. If you need more than pie, check out their hearty breakfasts and weekend dinners. Open daily from 7:00am – 2:30pm. Friday/Saturday, open for dinner 4:30-7pm.
  • Stock up on all things natural and organic at the Tonasket Natural Foods Co-op. They feature an in-store deli with soup and sandwiches, local produce, meats, eggs and more. Open Monday – Friday, 9am – 7pm, Saturday, 9am – 6pm and Sunday, 11am – 4pm.
  • If you’re in the market for antiques or an eclectic gift, stop by The Olde Creamery and find your bliss. Open Monday – Saturday, 9am – 5:30pm, 8:30pm on Saturdays.
  • Buy directly from local artisans and farmers at the seasonal Tonasket Farmers Market. (Thursdays, 2-6pm, Mid May-October)
  • As is the case across Okanogan County, there are many beautiful areas to explore just out of town. Head to Bonaparte Lake and the Bonaparte Lake Campground for an outdoor adventure. The lake is very popular for fishing, including ice fishing in the winter. Along with stellar fishing, the campground features a boat launch, camping, swimming and hiking. (Fishing license required.)
  • For stunning hiking and very cool rock climbing options, hit up the Whistler Canyon Trailhead and take in the beautiful scenery. (Trailhead entrance located just off US-97.)
  • Should you feel like exploring the ghost towns of Okanogan County, head east on SR-20 out of Tonasket towards Wauconda and Old Wauconda. Outside of visiting the ghosts of Washington’s past, there isn’t much to do, but the drive is interesting and fairly quiet. Unfortunately, not to be confused with Wakanda.

If you’ve made it as far as Oroville, it’s only a few more miles to the Canadian border. You’ve also been traversing the beautiful Okanogan Trails Scenic Byway for the past 80 miles from Pateros and as you’ve seen during your trek, this part of the state packs in quite a bit of scenic wonder. If you’re looking to add more road trip street-cred to your adventure, check out the Highland Historic Loop (features northern Okanogan County and includes parts of adjacent Grant County) and the Many Lakes Historic Loop. (out of Oroville, heads to Nighthawk ghost town and on to Loomis and Conconully)

Oroville is the last town before the Canadian border. On my recent visit, the border was still closed due to Covid, but when open, it’s a very low-key affair to cross borders. None of those multiple lanes and gates; One lane and one gate. Voila! You’re in Canada! (As long as you have your passport or Washington State enhanced ID, of course.) Osoyoos is the closest Canadian town to the border and Penticton is just up from there. If you happened to have read my first Puerto Vallarta article, Penticton is home to the awesome couple I met during my adventures, Jorgen and Jen. Last I knew, Jorgen was head of the ski team at Penticton area Apex Mountain Resort, a ski hill I’d very much like to visit one of these days. I never cease to be amazed at just how small a world we all share.

Even during Covid times, it’s been possible to spend the day adventuring into Canada. Granted, it’s via water and you can’t legally touch the shore, but it’s still an international adventure! Spanning the border between the US and Canada, the international waters of Osoyoos Lake provide many relaxing opportunities for both Americans and Canadians. It’s possible to traverse the entire lake without a passport as long as you don’t go to land. Put in at the lovely Osoyoos Lake Veteran’s Memorial Park in Oroville and spend the day cruising the lake. In addition to a boat launch, the park also features fishing, swimming and camping.

When visiting the park, be sure to check out the private pond off to the side of the parking area. The number of trout in that pond – and the amount of commotion they were causing during my visit – was fantastic! (But it’s a private pond, so please don’t drop in a pole.) There was also an amazing variety of birds in the area. For more info about birding in the area, check out the Cascade Loop portion of the Audubon Society Great Washington Birding Trail.

In addition to Oroville’s dining opportunities, there are also some great ways to sample from the area’s wine scene. A few of the spots to help you enjoy your stay:

  • For beautiful views and a little vino, head to Esther Bricques Winery & Vineyard, located off US-97 between Tonasket and Oroville. They’re open daily from 1-6pm as well as Thursday evenings at 6pm for live music and tastings. (Thursday night events are year-round, but call ahead to make sure they’re open for afternoon tastings as they might be out in the vineyard.)
  • It was a beautiful sunny day on my last visit to Oroville and a stop at Taber’s Taste of Summer was the perfect way to celebrate. Set adjacent to a beautiful cherry orchard, this seasonal fruit stand, greenhouse and gift shop is a must-stop. The lovely owners also host “Wine Wednesdays” from 6-9pm with live music and food, which is a great opportunity to enjoy wine from their Copper Mountain Vineyards. (Opens in May, 10am – 5pm, fall hours vary seasonally)
  • While not a wine shop, Akins Fresh Market offers a good selection of local wine and beer as well as tasty treats for your picnic basket. (Open daily, 8am – 8pm) And don’t miss a stop at adjacent Country Store for all sorts of things you didn’t know you needed. Like my new “I heart Chickens” hoodie, for instance. (Open Monday – Saturday, 8am – 7pm, Sunday, 9am – 6pm)
  • Should you be craving a frosty beer rather than a glass of red, stop in at the Pastime Brewery and wet your whistle. (That said, they feature local wines as well!) In addition to a good tap list, they also feature house-smoked meats with homemade sauces and locally sourced ingredients. (Thursday – Monday, noon – 8pm. Closed Tuesday/Wednesday.)

On your next Oroville visit, why not enjoy some of that beautiful lake and mountain scene with a stay at one of the many local lodging establishments:

  • If you’ve been exploring the area around Osoyoos Lake, no doubt you’ve noticed how many homes dot the shoreline. If you’d like to spend more time on and around the lake, check out the Veranda Beach Resort. This upscale resort area is directly on the lake and features cottages, boating slips, a diner, grocery store and Veranda Beach Cellars winery.
  • Located west of Tonasket and Oroville, the Wannacut Lake Resort offers cabins, cottages and campsites on the lake. They have electric boat rentals available and a newly renovated restaurant opening sometime this year. (Opens for 2022 in on April 20th)
  • For a charming B&B experience in a beautiful ranch setting, head to Buena Vista Lodging in the North Oroville area for a relaxing weekend.
  • Work off some of that wining and dining on the Similkameen River Trail, a former railroad line located just west of Oroville off of US-97. Enjoy hiking, biking and gorgeous views on this easy-going paved/graveled trail.
Osoyoos Lake
Private homes and resorts dot the shores of Osoyoos Lake

Okanogan County is a jackpot for ghost towns and opportunities to take a step back in time abound. For a particularly fascinating look into county, state and international history, head to tiny Molson, a ghost town and museum located up Chesaw Road out of Oroville. The drive alone is worth the effort for its rolling hills, winding roads and absolute, complete solitude. Additionally, Molson sits very close to the Canadian border and there’s a country road (9 Mile Road) which parallels the country-dividing train tracks just out of Molson, all the way back down to Chesaw Road and into Oroville. Such an amazing part of the state! (Pro Tip: Cell reception cuts in and out on these roads and there isn’t a lot of traffic. Make sure you have a paper map on hand and know how to change a tire.)

The history you’re able to see along the drive to Molson is noteworthy, but you’ll want to grab your camera and jump out of the car as soon as you enter this tiny town. The first area you’ll come upon is the site of Old Molson and its now ghostly visage. Park in the small area just after turning into the site and get ready to transport back in time.

The buildings of Old Molson are largely intact with interiors which have been lost to the sands of time as well as portions featuring a museum-like format. This struck an engaging balance between stumbling upon a long-lost secret and handily learning all about it with an informative exhibit. I very much enjoyed exploring this slice of NW history and look forward to spending more time learning about the area on future visits.

Since Molson is very close to what is now the American/Canadian border, the area has quite a bit of shared history with our Canadian neighbors. As you drive into Old Molson, both flags are flying and after exploring the town, it’s an appropriate statement. So much trade, commerce and shared resources were a regular part of Molson’s day to day life and the international lines were often very blurred.

After roaming around Old Molson, do not miss a stop at the Molson Museum, located just past the ghost town. Originally the area’s schoolhouse, it has been closed for that purpose since 1969 and is now a fascinating museum dedicated to local history. The displays are well put together, charming and paint a very vivid picture of Molson life and times. An added bonus was the incredibly helpful and informative volunteer museum staff. They were very happy to discuss the area as well as serve up 50-cent coffee and brownies. I want all of my museum trips to be just like that! (Open daily from 10am – 5pm – Memorial Day thru Labor Day)

If you’re making the trek in and around Molson, there are many other points of history and interest to find in the area. Get out your map and find your way to these great spots on your next visit:

  • If you happen to be visiting Molson over the last weekend in August, head to the Molson Grange Hall for the popular Highland Stitchers Show & Sale. Beautiful, handmade quilts are on display and for sale! (Last Saturday in August, 9am – 3pm)
  • Taking place in Chesaw, every July 4th since 1942, the Chesaw Rodeo is a time-honored tradition in the area. Classic rodeo events, a parade, food and more! Another fun summer event in Chesaw is Chesaw Hot August Nights, featuring a classic car show and more. (The event was cancelled in 2021, but typically takes place the last Saturday in August)
  • If you’re visiting during winter and want to get in some skiing, make the trek up to cozy Sitzmark Ski Area. Follow Chesaw Road off of US-97 in Oroville up to Havillah Road and enjoy one of Washington’s old-school ski hills. (Open Thursday – Sunday. Lifts open 10am – 4pm. Ski hut and lodge open at 9am.)
  • For a bit of cross-country skiing on a network of groomed trails complete with warming hut, head to the Highlands Nordic Sno-park, located off of US-97 in Tonasket and up the Tonasket-Havillah Road. (Or take US-97 to Chesaw Road and onto Tonasket-Havillah Road.) A non-motorized Sno-Park Permit is required.
  • If you haven’t fulfilled your ghost town quota, head to Nighthawk, home to the oldest mining claim in the state. (c. 1860) Located on the opposite side of Oroville as Molson, take the Loomis-Oroville Road, west out of Oroville.

Yowsa! Okanogan County is a very large area to cover… But we did it! For the sake of wrapping up this particular Washington State odyssey, I’m going to save the spectacular Grand Coulee Dam for my upcoming Grant County adventure. Located in both Okanogan and Grant Counties, Grand Coulee Dam is an adventure not to be missed, but we’ll spend some quality time there during my Grant County travels. I promise!

And with that, we’ve come to the end of the road for Okanogan County. Well, not really, as we just left off in the middle of nowhere near Molson. Still a few miles to go before we get back home… Just as there are many ways to get in and around Okanogan County, there are equal amounts of beautiful routes to get you home. For this outing, I traveled back south on US-97 towards Pateros and Brewster, over to Blewett Pass and back towards I-90 and Seattle. It was a great drive! Bottom line, any path you take in and out of Okanogan County will inevitably be filled with beauty and adventure. It’s just a Washington State fact!

Until next time – Happy trails!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Wind through the backroads of Okanogan County with my SPOTIFY PLAYLIST

  • Medicine – Grace Potter & The Nocturnals (from Grace Potter & The Nocturnals)
  • The Long Way Home – Norah Jones (from Feels Like Home)
  • These Days – Jackson Browne (from For Everyman)
  • You Can Close Your Eyes – James Taylor (from Mud Slide Slim and the Blue Horizon)
  • Right Down the Line – Gerry Rafferty (from City to City)
  • Wish the Wind Would Blow Me – Bob Schneider (from Burden of Proof)
  • I Gotta Get Drunk – The Little Willies (from The Little Willies)
  • Can’t Find My Way Home – Ellen McIlwaine (from Up From the Skies: The Polydor Years)
  • Fruits of My Labor – Lucina Williams (from World Without Tears)
  • A Little Too Soon to Say – Jackson Browne (from A Little Too Soon to Say)
  • Bigger Boat (feat. Randy Newman) – Brandy Clark (from Your Life Is A Record)
  • Mountain Greenery – Kat Edmonson, Vince Giordano & The Nighthawks (from Café Society)
  • Baker Street – Shawn Colvin, David Crosby (from Uncovered)
  • I Wish I Was the Moon – Neko Case (from Blacklisted)
  • Just Like Heaven – Katie Melua (from Piece by Piece)
  • I Make the Dough, You Get the Glory – Kathleen Edwards (from Asking for Flowers)
  • Wildflowers – The Wailin’ Jennys (from Fifteen)
  • September Fields – Frazey Ford (from Indian Ocean)
  • I Must Be in A Good Place Now – Fruit Bats, Vetiver (from In Real Life – Live at Spacebomb Studios)
  • Keep Me in Your Heart – Warren Zevon (from The Wind)
  • White Horses – Darlingside (from Birds Say)
  • Take the Long Way Home – Supertramp (from Breakfast in America)
Pine Cones
Happy trails to you!

Check out more I Ate the State adventures!

I Ate the State – Klickitat County

COVID-19 Travel Advisory: Please review COVID-19 alerts and regulations ahead of your travels. Refer to CDC guidelines along with local and state guidelines and wear a mask whenever suggested or required.

Greetings!

Washington State packs a powerful punch when it comes to celebrating diversity. Whether it be via environment, culture or history, Washington fully represents and Klickitat County is no slouch. Within a single afternoon of exploring the area, I took in towering volcanoes (plural!), spacious forests, sweeping plains, grand rivers and ancient canyons. I enjoyed delicious bounty, learned of amazing history, hiked beautiful trails and even wandered around an abbey shared by Buddhists and Druids. All this in just one afternoon – and that was truly just the tip of the volcano! Join me while I discover what spectacular adventures Klickitat County has to offer. (And I’ll still only be scratching the surface!)

Named for the Klickitat Tribe, now part of the Confederated Tribes and Bands of the Yakama Nation, Klickitat County is located in the south-central area of the state. Falling near the middle in size, the population sits closer towards the bottom of the list. (29th out of 39 in population, to be exact) In a nutshell, it’s very easy to stretch out in Klickitat County – and to possibly not see anyone around for miles. And miles… It’s quite something to be able to stop in the middle of the road to take a picture and not be worried about someone driving up behind.

Bickleton Hwy
The Bickleton Highway after a spring rain. Not a car in sight…

Klickitat County is a very accessible county, from both Washington and Oregon. It neighbors Yakima, Skamania and Benton Counties and sits directly across the mighty Columbia River from Oregon. There are many routes in and out of the county within Washington as well as several bridges over the Columbia River to Oregon. This can make for many great quick-trips! It also has the benefit of being in the south-central part of the state, so it’s a relatively doable day trip from many parts of Washington. That said, as there are so many amazing things to see and do, I’d definitely recommend at least an overnight stay.

As I live in the western part of the state, I typically take I-90 to Yakima via I-82 and then Exit 37 onto US-97 towards Bend and Goldendale. I love heading over Satus Pass and enjoy the change of forest from the firs and spruce of the west side to the Ponderosa pines of the east. This route also allows me to stop at the very unique St. John’s Monastery & Bakery, located just off US-97 near the lovely Brooks Memorial State Park. The resident nuns and novices make the most delicious traditional Greek pastries, candies, soups, handcrafted candles and more. A must stop! (Open Monday – Saturday, 9am – 6pm)

For my most recent foray into Klickitat County, however, I was coming from nearby Sunnyside, so I headed towards Bickleton via WA-22 to Mabton and then onto the Mabton-Bickleton Road. Tiny Bickleton is reached via quiet, winding backroads and the drive is well worth the effort. Stunning vistas, rolling fields and high desert plains are de rigueur and it’s hard not to see beauty in every turn of the road. (And there are many turns!) If you happen to visit during the spring, there are the added glories of wildflowers, fresh sage brush and possibly spring rain. (Spring sage in the spring rain is one of the dreamiest smells ever!) If you take this route, be sure to pull over randomly and take in the scene. And the air. And the silence. Beautiful

Pro tip: Reception can be spotty along the roads to and from Bickleton – and the roads are often very, very quiet. (In many parts of Klickitat County in general.) Be sure to get that oil change and tire check before venturing off into the wilds and always bring along an old-school paper map. And snacks. Always bring snacks. And probably some water.

Known as theBluebird Capitol of the World, Bickleton is a tiny, but lovely jewel in the high desert of the county. (Population 90!) Thousands of bluebirds spend much of their year in the area, making their homes in the lovely birdhouses dotting area fence lines. If you are coming to the area via Mabton, Ponderosa pines begin to pop up just outside of town and wildflowers cheerfully dot the landscape. It truly is a gorgeous drive and ends with a step back in time once you’ve arrived in Bickleton proper.

As mentioned, Bickleton is quite small, but there are definitely places to explore and several events throughout the year to check out. On your next high desert adventure, consider these great options:

  • Should you be interested in wetting your whistle in the oldest operating tavern in the state (c. 1887), be sure to sidle up at the Bluebird Inn. Grab a drink and great burger and relax in this nostalgia-filled gem. (Open Wednesday – 7am to 8pm, Thursday-Saturday – 10am to 8pm and Sunday – 8am to 6pm. Closed Mondays, Tuesdays and the entire month of December.) NOTE: Not to be confused with The Brick Saloon in Kittitas County, which lays claim to the oldest, continuously operating bar in the state. (c. 1889) DON’T MIX THEM UP! Fight, fight, FIGHT! Bar/Saloon/Tavern brawl anyone?
  • Grab food to go or take a seat in the café at the charming Bickleton Market Street Café & Grocery. Offering tasty burgers, hot and cold sandwiches and more, they’re a great stop in the area. (Open Monday – Friday, 7am to 6pm and Saturday, 7am to 11am. Closed Sunday.)
  • Be sure to make a stop at the Bickleton Carousel Museum and take in the festive scene. The museum features a lovely Herschell-Spillman Carousel (c. 1900) as well as area history. It is one of only three of its type still working, which is amazing when you consider 121 years of rowdy fair-goers. (Open Friday & Saturday, 10am – 3pm and Sunday, Noon – 4pm. Open spring through late fall.)
  • You can find the aforementioned carousel in full operation once a year at the… Alder Creek Pioneer Picnic & Rodeo (June 12-13, 2021, 10th – 12th for 2022) It is Washington’s oldest rodeo and this year marked its impressive 110th anniversary. (c. 1910) Located in nearby Cleveland Park, it’s a classic rodeo scene set amidst Ponderosa pines and a rustic park scene. I recently attended and had the pleasure of riding the carousel and eating a GIANT corndog and elephant ear. It was a great time, indeed. (Hot Tip: Cleveland Park is also known as Alder Creek Pioneer Rodeo and Picnic Area if you happen to be searching on Google. If you’re lucky enough to have reception, that is!)
  • If you have a penchant for classic cars and flea markets, be sure to hit up the Bickleton Classic Car Show – and flea market! Taking place at the Carousel Museum over Labor Day weekend, it’s a fun way to wrap up the summer. (My dad has attended and gives it his seal of approval. 😉 The event was cancelled for 2020, but hopefully 2021 will be a go.

One of my favorite stretches of road in the state lies between Bickleton and the nearby town of Goldendale. Traveling west out of town on the Bickleton-Goldendale Highway will take you through Ponderosa-filled forest and into high plains brimming with wildflowers and sage brush. (And the occasional, lonely tumbleweed blowing across the road.) I love pulling over along the way and just standing outside. The smell of the flowers and sage is amazing and on a recent trip, there was a bit of spring rain to bring it all out. No one on the road, the only sound the wind and a sense that this scene has remained exactly the same for a very long time… Sublime.

As the high plains begin to lose elevation, the road starts to wind and twist into an absolutely stunning area known as Badger Gulch. As the road descends into the deep valley, switchbacks and hairpin turns compete with impressive views for your attention. On my last drive through the area, the sun was shining, but at the same time it was raining. Amazing rainbows and god-rays sifting through the clouds accompanied me as I navigated my way through the switchbacks. Glorious! (Pro Tip: Keep your eyes on the road, or just occasionally pull over. I hate to admit that I’m prone to taking pictures out of my window as I drive, but not in this area. Nope. EYES ON THE ROAD, please.)

Once out of the dastardly, but beautiful, Badger Gulch the road calms down as you make your way towards Goldendale, the county seat of Klickitat County. Nestled in the foothills of the Simcoe Mountains, Goldendale is known for its wheat, cattle, alfalfa and hay. (Which means I get to bust out my classic “Hay!” joke whenever in the area. You’re welcome.) It is easy to breeze through the area if you’re traveling on US-97, but the town is well worth a stop. Interesting history, good barbeque and a night sky chock-full of stars are just a few of its draws. Throw in an amazing view of nearby Mount Adams and I’m never disappointed with my time in Goldendale.

Klickitat Valley
Hay!! And alfalfa, wheat, sheep and cattle!

If you find yourself in this lovely part of the state, there are many things to occupy your time and imagination. A few places to check out while in the area:

  • Goldendale is famous for its dark skies and up until recently carried the ‘Dark Sky’ designation. Sadly, this has since been removed, but hopefully Washington State will rally to have it re-established. Nevertheless, the area skies are indeed still very dark and magnificently showcase the night sky. One of the nation’s largest public observatories, Goldendale Observatory (and state park) offers an amazing look into the cosmos and a beautiful opportunity to explore the area surrounding the observatory. Newly renovated and state of the art, the observatory offers both day and night time viewings and is a must-stop if you’re visiting the area. They are currently requiring reservations until Covid restrictions are further lifted, so look online before you go. (Regular schedule resumes August 13th and drop-in visits will be allowed.) While in the area, be sure to take a quick hike through the nearby Observatory Hills Trails to enjoy the local flora and fauna. (Discover Pass required for observatory parking.) Author’s Note: The observatory was closed on my most recent visit to the area, but I’ll be returning in August and will update with pictures. I’ve visited the observatory in the past and am very excited to check out the updates! And that spectacular night sky…
  • Set back from the quaint downtown area, the Presby Museum – and Klickitat County Historical Society offers a well-curated look into the yesteryears of Goldendale and the surrounding area. Set inside the stately Presby Mansion, it’s a fine way to spend an afternoon. (May 1st – October 15th, 10am – 4pm daily)
  • There are several standard hotels in the area, but why not go big? Check out The Red House on Airbnb for a step back in time. Featured on both state and federal Historic Registers, you get the whole house to explore and imagine life in late 1800s Goldendale. (c. 1890. Originally the home of Charles Newell, the Horse King of the Northwest.) Author’s Note: I haven’t stayed there yet, but I’ll be taking care of that in August. Pictures coming soon!
  • If you’re looking for an opportunity to don those boots and polish that belt buckle, or the chance to eat A LOT of fair food, the Klickitat County Fair & Rodeo is the place to be. Given the opportunity, I’m pretty sure I could eat my weight in delicious corn dogs and elephant ears. Mmmm… (August 19-22, 2021)

What’s that? You didn’t fill up on corndogs and elephant ears at the fair?? Hmmm… Well, lucky for you, there are some great dining options in the area. Stop in at one of these fine spots the next time you’re in town:

  • If you’re a fan of BBQ (Yes, please!) head directly to The Dirty Cowgirl. Originally a food truck, Chef Kory Geddes has grown her operation into a full-service restaurant. On my recent visit, I was fortunate enough to get the very last order of brisket for the day. Moowahahahaha… SO GOOD! (Open daily, 11am – 9pm; 10pm on Friday/Saturday and 8pm on Sunday)
  • For a great breakfast, lunch or dinner, head to the Town House Café in the downtown area. This charming spot is very popular for its tasty, home-style cooking. (Wednesday to Sunday, 7am – 2pm with dinners to 7pm on Fridays. Closed Monday/Tuesday.)
  • Dwinell Country Ales offers an impressive line of craft beer and cider. The tasting room is currently closed, but private tastings are available by reservation on their tasting room patio. They are also open Saturday and Sunday from 1-4pm for beer-to-go.
  • Should you be in the mood for an old-school tavern and café experience, check out the Simcoe Café located in the heart of downtown. If those walls could talk… (Daily, 11am to 12pm, 2am on Friday/Saturday.)
  • The Goldendale has a bounty of produce and tasty treats to offer. If that sounds delicious, stop by the Goldendale Farmers Market and grab some goodies! (Saturdays at the Goldendale Chamber Grounds from May – September, 9am – 2pm)

After staying the night in one of the chain hotels off of US-97, I was very ready to head further south and do some wine-tasting and exploring along the Columbia River Gorge. And do some tasting of wine… (Did I mention doing some wine tasting?) As I headed south on US-97, the morning was brilliantly sunny and the windmills dotting the hills were in full swing. It’s amazing how large they are from a distance and this part of the drive allowed me to see just how large they actually are. Suffice to say, there’s quite a bit of energy being created by these behemoths. Klickitat County hosts several wind farms throughout the county, thoroughly utilizing the constant, sweeping winds of the area. Some may find them a challenge to the landscape and view, but I’ve always thought them strangely scenic. And hey, clean energy sources are always good!

Another sight along the way offers a prime opportunity to take in four founding members of the Pacific Northwest’s “Ring of Fire.” Should the day be sunny, which is often the case in this area, be sure to pull over at the Cascade Volcanoes Viewpoint, located shortly outside of Goldendale. Showcasing one of the state’s most splendid vistas, this humble pull-over spot on the side of US-97 allows you to see, in one fell swoop, Mount Saint Helens, Mount Hood, Mount Adams and Mount Rainier. Granted, Hood and Adams clearly dominate the scene, but Saint Helens and Rainier nicely tip their caps on either side of this family picture. Don’t miss the chance to stand in awe of these magnificent mountains.

While the western names of these noble guardians of the Northwest have been in place since early, western exploration of the area, their original Native American names have been known for thousands of years:

  • Mount Adams Native American name: Pahto or Klickitat
  • Mount Hood Native American name: Wy’east or Wyeast
  • Mount Rainier Native American name: Tahoma or Takhoma
  • Mount St. Helens Native American name: Louwala-Clough or Loowit to the Klickitat

Continuing south on US-97 brings you up and over a ridge and down into the just-plain-amazing Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area. I truly can’t say enough good about this area. It has mesmerized me my entire life and with each visit, I love and appreciate it all the more. Even if you are just passing through on your way to Oregon or beyond, it’s hard not to thoroughly admire nature’s handiwork as you descend into the gorge.

Travel Tip: If you’re pining to do a bicycle trip through the area, the Mt. Adams Bus – Mt. Adams Transportation Services (MATS) goes from Goldendale and all through the gorge. (It also goes over bridges to The Dalles and Hood River.) Put that bike on the rack and take a break from the uphill! $1 for adults and kids five and under are free. Sweet!

Should you indeed only be passing through, you can continue heading south on US-97 towards the nearby Sam Hill Memorial Bridge and into Oregon. A large truck-stop area, Biggs Junction, lies just past the bridge and continuing south will bring you to beautiful Bend, Oregon. Further south and into California, it is possible to hook up with I-5 in the city of Weed near Mount Shasta. (Travel bonus: If you were to reverse course on US-97 and head through Okanogan County and into British Columbia, Canada (BC Highway 97), you could drive all the way to Alaska via the ALCAN Highway. (#LifeGoals) US-97 in a pretty epic highway!

For this trip, however, my travels remained firmly in Washington as I followed along the path of the Lewis and Clark Expedition via SR-14 west. This natural wonder of an area features amazing history and spectacular geology, not to mention breathtaking views. Ice age flood plains, millennia-old Native American history, towering basalt cliffs and the mighty Columbia River are just a few of the attractions. It’s not hard to understand why the area has been a major hub of activity for thousands and thousands of years. It can also be a bit difficult to take it all in while simply driving along the winding road. Keep those eyes on the road while driving, but be sure to pull over many times along the way to revel in the fantastic scenery.

Columbia River Gorge
Yep. That’s a pretty amazing view.

Not too far into my journey on SR-14, I stopped for a visit at the lovely Maryhill State Park. A sprawling, scenic area along the Columbia, it’s a great spot for a picnic or camping adventure. Bring your boat and do some fishing or perhaps a little waterskiing. (I have the fondest memories of waterskiing on the Columbia. Major fuel for my I must have a boat plan…) On a windy day, it’s likely windsurfers will be also sailing the river and defying the laws of gravity. (Discover Pass required for parking and a Launch Permit is required for boating.)

Just up the road from the park sits one of the county’s, nay state’s, most interesting sites, the Stonehenge Memorial & Klickitat County Veterans Memorial. Designed by prolific highway builder, Sam Hill, it sits on a bluff overlooking the Columbia as a monument to soldiers killed in WWI. (Sam Hill was also a businessman, lawyer and railroad exec and quite influential to the area’s development in the early 1900s) While not quite Salisbury Plain, the view is stunning and the structure a truly unique tribute. Sam Hill’s crypt is located just a short walk below the monument on a bluff overlooking the river.

Additional unique and interesting spots to check out in the area:

  • In operation since 1936, the excellent Gunkel Orchards & Fruit Stand is just down the road from the Stonehenge memorial. Open seasonally, they offer delicious fresh fruit and more. Cherries, peaches, nectarines… Go get ‘em! (Monday – Thursday, 8am – 6pm and Friday – Sunday, 8am – 6pm)
  • Visit the Waving Tree Vineyard for a bit of wine tasting bliss. They’re located down from the memorial and east of the historic Maryhill Community Church (c.1888) on Maryhill Highway. They also have a tasting room at the entrance of Maryville State Park, but it is currently closed due to COVID. (Winery open daily from 10am – 5pm, but they do suggest making an appointment.)
  • The Maryhill Loops Road goes between US-97 (just past Goldendale) and connects with SR-14 near the Stonehenge Drive turn-off. Now only open to bikes and pedestrians, it is part of the original, ten-mile asphalt road Sam Hill personally financed in the early 1900s and is the first such road in the northwest. It was originally used it to experiment with paving techniques and also provided an invigorating drive for early motorists. (Pro Tip: They do open the road twice a year to motorists. Gotta check out those hairpin turns!)

Heading a little further west on SR-14 continues the celebration of Sam Hill and his significance to the region. Enter the fabulous Maryhill Museum, a crown jewel in the extraordinary beauty of the area. Built by Sam Hill, the name is a tribute to his wife, daughter and mother-in-law, all named “Mary” and the opening was dedicated by Queen Marie of Romania in 1926. Featuring an excellent art collection both in the galleries and throughout the grounds, it is a must-stop when visiting the area. It also offers a gorgeous, expansive view of the area’s amazing geology. (March 15th – November 15th, 10am – 5pm daily.)

Sam Hill’s Legacy: As he was an extensive international traveler, Sam Hill’s contributions extend beyond the area. He is also responsible for the Peace Arch monument in Blaine, between the US and Canadian border and built a golf course and restaurant at Semiahmoo, just north of Blaine. During Prohibition, the restaurant could serve alcohol as it was on the Canadian side. Well played, Sam. Well played. Additionally, if you’re in the Seattle area, take a drive through the neighborhood of the Sam Hill house, located on Capitol Hill.

After luxuriating in the artistic grandeur of Maryhill Museum, it was time to find a bit of lunch – and maybe do a little wine-tasting. (Art, food and wine… A perfect afternoon!) Located just west of the museum, off of SR-14, lives the wonderful Maryhill Winery. Featuring award-winning wine, a delicious menu and spectacular views, a visit to Maryhill Winery is always a good idea. Their famous amphitheater is unfortunately closed these days, but they do still feature live music on their lovely terrace. I’m pretty sure if I lived in the area, I’d be there all the time – for the charcuterie and Albariño alone! (Open daily, 11am – 6pm, 8pm on Saturdays. They also have tasting rooms in Spokane, Vancouver and Woodinville.)

One of the best sightseeing opportunities while traveling through Klickitat County is just that; seeing the sights. There are plenty of places to pull over and I highly recommend you take advantage and enjoy the many incredible vistas. The area is part of the greater Ice Age Floods National Geologic Trail, which spans Montana, Idaho, Washington and Oregon and it is a marvel to take in. The entire “trail” spans 16,000 square miles!

Also found in the area is The Dalles Dam. (A great opportunity to do my classic Dam! joke. You are again welcome.) This area of the Columbia was forever altered by a different type of flooding in 1957 with the completion of the dam. Before this time, the massive Celilo Falls dominated the scene. These marvelous falls were a hugely important center of fishing, trade and gathering with neighboring tribes for thousands of years. They also proved to be a bit of an obstacle for the Lewis and Clark Expedition when it ventured through on its way to the Pacific. There is an excellent viewpoint located just before the turn-off to nearby Wishram which highlights the history of the area. It is well worth a stop.

Should you like to extend your area viewing with a nice glass of wine and tasty eats, the following Wishram establishments await your visit:

  • Set at the base of the Columbia Hills (elevation 2600-3200 feet) the Cascade Cliffs winery is a lovely place to enjoy a glass of wine. Bask in the sun, marvel at the nearby basalt cliffs and enjoy the view. Sigh…  The vineyard and tasting room is located just off of SR-14 and they also have tasting rooms in Hood River, Woodinville & Georgetown. (Wishram tasting room open daily, Noon – 7pm, Friday and Saturday to 8pm.)
  • In addition to a lovely wine offering, the Jacob Williams winery, located off SR-14 near the Avery Recreation Area, features charcuterie and other treats. Their tasting room is also dog friendly and features live music throughout the summer. (Open daily, 11am – 6pm. They also have a tasting room in McMinnville, OR.)

People have been inhabiting the Columbia River Gorge for millennia. There are many ways to explore and experience the history of the area, but among the most fascinating is the sprawling Columbia Hills Historical State Park along SR-14. (Discover Pass required for parking and launch permits required for boating) Comprised of four major areas with a wide variety of things to do and see. Whether your stay is short or long, it is impossible to walk away without being profoundly affected by the beauty and history of the area; So many stories, so many spectacular views, so many trails and natural wonders to savor.

One of the most amazing features of the area and easiest to check out are the ancient petroglyphs located along the Temani Pesh-wa Trail at Horsethief Lake. These amazing stories were left by the original stewards of the land and were relocated from their original locations along the Columbia with the creation of the Dalles Dam. Despite their move, it is still awe-inspiring to view them in their current dwelling and an enduring tribute to the indigenous peoples of the area.

There are so many wonderful opportunities for exploration in Columbia Hills Historical State Park. Just a few of the options:

  • For an easy-access look at the petroglyphs, drive to the riverside parking lot inside the Horsethief Lake entrance of the park. The Temani Pesh-wa Trail is located directly adjacent to the lot and features a boardwalk with a self-guided tour next to the petroglyphs. For something more in depth, the park offers ranger-guided tours which go deeper into the area and history. The featured She Who Watches tour tells the legend of a female chief of the native Wishram people from 3000 years ago. Check out local Native American artist, Lillian Pitt for wonderful artwork based on local legends and the Columbia River Gorge area.
  • Stay a while at Horsethief Lake and camp in the same areas that have been hosting travelers for millennia, including the Lewis and Clark Expedition. A couple of rustic cabins are also available for camping. The lake is usually open for fishing, from the end of April to October 31st and there is boating access to both the lake and Columbia River. (Permits required for fishing) If you don’t happen to have your own boat, check out the kayak and pedal boat rentals options.
  • For some stellar rock climbing, check out the Horsethief Butte area. Amazing views, beautiful trails and super cool rocks!
  • Off the north side of SR-14 lies the Crawford Oaks trailhead. In addition to hiking opportunities, bikes and horses have much to explore. If you’re looking for amazing mountain and gorge(ous) views, this is the trail to take.
  • Also off the north side of SR-14 and close to the Crawford Oaks trailhead, is the beautiful Dalles Mountain Ranch area. In addition to the 6,000 acres of remarkable landscapes, this historic ranch features much flora and fauna along with historic farm buildings and equipment.
  • Should you fancy a side trip into yonder Oregon, an amazing drive with incredible views can be found just over the nearby Dalles Bridge. Once across the bridge, take I-84 west and head for Mayer State Park. You’ll be looking for the Rowena Crest Viewpoint off the Historic Columbia River Highway. You won’t be sorry!

Important Public Service Announcement: The Columbia River Gorge is an extremely beautiful and fascinating area. It is one of many extremes, in fact; several of which being flora and fauna. Be on the lookout for rattlesnakes, ticks, poison oak and more! Spring is tick season and rattlesnakes generally love cool, concealed spots. Long pants, good boots and a hat are my go-to whenever hiking around these areas. Go prepared, be aware and you’ll be fine! And don’t go poking around in those interesting looking spots between the rocks… DON’T DO IT.

Nope.
And this is where my petroglyph party-train came to a halt…

After communing with the petroglyphs and successfully evading snakes, it was time to head further west. I was ultimately heading towards Trout Lake and Mount Adams, but there were many alluring spots to check out along the way. Beautiful trails, local history and delicious vino are just some of the options that came across my path in the Lyle area. Don’t miss exploring the beauty in and around this tiny community.

Keep an eye out for exits off of SR-14 for Old Highway 8. The area is a goldmine of outdoor opportunities and is not to be missed. Just a few of the amazing places to explore during your visit:

  • One of the most impressive features of the area (and that’s saying something!) can be found in the Coyote Wall Recreation Area. The Coyote Wall Trail is just one of the excellent ways to experience the mammoth formation of columnar basalt known as the Coyote Wall or “The Syncline.”
  • The Catherine Creek trailhead is lovely throughout the year; particularly during spring and early summer. The wildflowers are gorgeous and the views, sublime. Located off of Old Highway 8, west of the Syncline.
  • Located just off SR-14 at an intersection for Old Highway 8 sits Rowland Lake. (SR-14 actually cuts directly through the lake!) Known for its trout fishing, it’s a great spot to stop even if you’ve forgotten your poles.

More great opportunities for exploration in the Lyle area:

  • For wonderful views, wildflower identifying and a glance into the cherry-growing history of the area, hit up the Lyle Cherry Orchard Trail and Loop. The trailhead is located just off SR-14 and the trail itself can be enjoyed in a 5 to 6.5 round-trip loop.
  • Set in the center of town, the Lyle Twin Bridges Museum is a lovely place to learn about the history of the town and greater Lyle area. (Open Saturdays, June thru September, Noon to 5pm)
Chamberlain Lake
Lovely wildflowers in the Lyle area

If all that exploring has left you parched and peckish, there are several ways to address the situation while in the Lyle area:

  • A well-established and respected winery in the Columbia River Gorge, Domaine Pouillon offers a fine catalog of wines. Check out their summer ‘2nd Weekend Sip’ events for a taste of their greatness. (Located along the Lyle-Snowden Road. Tasting room currently open by appointment only.)
  • Stop in at the family-run Klickitat Canyon & Columbia Gorge Winery and enjoy a bit of their hand-processed, certified-organic wine. (Located along the Lyle-Snowden Road. Open Friday – Sunday, Noon – 6pm, Mother’s Day through Thanksgiving weekend and by appointment.)
  • I really enjoy the AGO Sauvignon Blanc from COR Cellars, located off of Old Highway 8. Stop in and give it a try, along with their other lovely offerings. Currently, tastings are by reservation only, Wednesday thru Monday. They have limited indoor seating in addition to a cool courtyard and tasting tent. Spots are available 11am thru 3pm.
  • Also found off of Old Highway 8, the appropriately named Syncline Winery features lovely wines in a beautiful location. This charming boutique winery is open for tastings Friday thru Sunday, noon to 5pm. (Reservations recommended) They also feature various tasting packages and I have to say I’m quite intrigued by their Blue Door Experience… Adding it to my travel bucket list!
  • Just up the road from the Syncline Winery is The Hillbilly Farm. This family-run farm stand features fresh produce with their specialties being tomatoes, watermelon and cantaloupe. They also have plants for sale and fresh eggs available 24 hours a day. Open daily, 9am – 7pm.
  • The tagline at Tetrahedron Wines is “Where Art meets Science,” which I find very cool. Two great tastes that go great together! Stop in for a tasting on Saturdays from noon to 5pm and Sundays from noon to 4pm. (Reservations recommended. Located off of SR-14 in downtown Lyle)
  • Featuring classic pub fare and hand-tossed pizza, The Sandbar and Grill is the perfect addition to a day of local exploration. Located off of SR-14 in downtown Lyle. Open Wednesday thru Saturday, 4pm – 9pm. (Closed Sunday – Tuesday)
  • If you’re in the mood for a classic country breakfast before you begin your adventures, stop in at the Country Café in downtown Lyle. They also serve old-school burgers and sandwiches during lunch. Open daily, 7am – 2pm. (8am on Sunday)
  • If all this adventuring has left you tuckered out, consider a reservation at The Lyle Hotel and take a well-earned rest. This quaint hotel (c. 1905) was originally a railroad hotel and offers a charming glimpse into the history of the Lyle area. Located in downtown Lyle. (Note: Their restaurant is closed for the time being.)
Twin Bridges Museum
The Twin Bridges Museum in Lyle

Getting to Lyle is simple via SR-14 as the highway goes directly through town. There are, however, a couple of interesting and less direct ways to and from the area. If the beauty of a Douglas fir forest is calling your name, take a 30-minute drive north to the tiny town of Snowden via the Lyle-Snowden Road. (West of downtown Lyle on SR-14, take Old Highway 8 to Canyon Road)

If you’d like to take a back-route to Lyle from the Goldendale area, hit up the very scenic SR-142. Along the way, make sure to visit the town and county namesake, Klickitat. This route is filled with plenty of beautiful views and vantages to discover. A great route extending from SR-142 is the Goldendale-Glenwood Highway, which leads north towards the Conboy Lake National Wildlife Refuge and offers more beautiful views and vantages.

While exploring the backroads and byways of Klickitat County, keep these enjoyable options in mind for your itinerary:

  • Located in Klickitat proper, the Klickitat Historical Museum features interesting exhibits and artifacts from days gone by. Open Sundays, 10am – 3pm from Memorial Day through Labor Day.
  • The town of Klickitat is located at the base of Klickitat Canyon. Spilling from its mouth at the base of Mount Adams, the Klickitat River flows into the canyon offering many outdoor opportunities along the way. (It’s the state’s longest wild river!) Fishing, rafting, hiking and much more can easily fill a sunny weekend. This is also apparently the place to be for turkey hunting. Chalk that up in the ‘you learn something new every day’ category for me. I was unaware Washington had a turkey population much less one large enough for hunting. The more you know!
  • If you’d rather draw pictures of turkeys than hunt them, consider instead hitting up the Klickitat Trail for a bit of hiking. This 31-mile trail follows an old railroad grade through the canyon and serves up much beauty and adventure. Bikes and horses welcome.
Hand Turkey
I spent a lot of time on this. You’re welcome. (Yes, Dad, that is a real googly eye.)

Further west of Lyle, heading towards Bingen, make sure to take a stop at the Chamberlain Lake Rest Area. (Even if you don’t need to rest. I mean, if you have a chance to rest, it’s probably a good idea. As my mom always said, you never know when your next chance might be…) This little spot is a great place to take a quick break and a short stroll around the area. Have a snack! The views are spectacular and it’s just off the road…  

There is much environmental variety to be found in Klickitat County. The bulk of my journey thus far has focused on the drier, Columbia River Gorge portion of the county. Beautiful grasslands, rolling hills and the Columbia River dominate the scene, but not far away exists a temperate rainforest. Heading north from Bingen and past White Salmon will take you into this amazing area. (Don’t worry – we’ll visit White Salmon and Bingen on the way home!)

From SR-14 in Bingen, I headed north on SR-141 towards White Salmon. The road immediately began climbing and the trees and greenery began to expand their reach. Mount Hood was towering behind me on the Oregon side and Mount Adams, straight ahead to the north. This was the first time I’d traveled this road, but I knew in my soul it was taking me somewhere spectacular. I was not proven wrong…

Ponderosa Pines
My favorite – the magnificent Ponderosa pine!

As I traveled further north on SR-141, I came to the tiny town known as the ‘gateway to Mount Adams,’ Trout Lake. (Not an actual lake, but there is a namesakelake nearby.) Since the arid Columbia River Gorge is a mere 30-minute drive from the cooler, greener mountain vibe of Trout Lake, the transition is quite something to experience. Even if the outdoor life isn’t your thing, it’s well worth just making a drive around the area to take in the beautiful scenery and environment.

Backroads tip: It is also possible to reach the Trout Lake area from Goldendale and SR-142 to the Glenwood and Trout Lake Highways OR the Glenwood Highway to BZ-Glenwood Highway. So many excellent backroads options!

In addition to stellar hiking, camping, fishing, cross-country skiing, snowmobiling, climbing and rafting, the Gifford-Pinchot National Forest – Mount Adams area is also renowned for its scrumptious huckleberry season. The season goes from mid-August to mid-September and is a delicious way to experience the mountain scene.

Huckleberry hot tips: You will need a permit for picking in the Gifford-Pinchot National Forest. You can get a printable Free-Use Permit online if picking under one gallon/up to three gallons a year. If you’re wanting to pick to use for products such as jam, ice cream, etc. you’ll need a Charge Use Permit, available at your local Ranger District or Monument Headquarters

Should you not fancy cooking over a camp stove or camping under the stars, there are several lodging and dining options in Trout Lake. It is popular to use this area as a sort of basecamp for area adventures. Some great places to check out on your next visit:

  • Along with tasty food, the historic Trout Lake Country Inn also offers yoga classes in their dance hall and live music. Open Friday – Sunday, 5pm – 8:30pm.
  • The Station Café & Espresso at Andy’s Valley Service (and Chevron Station) features delicious huckleberry shakes and pies along with coffee, burgers and more! (And you can get gas and have your car serviced!)
  • On my recent visit, there were two old guys hanging out on the porch, discussing the day’s events. A little girl was playing on the steps… Take a step back to quieter times at the historic Trout Lake Grocery and stock up on adventure goods. If huckleberries are in season, check out the fresh berries, jams and more! (Open daily, 7:30am – 7pm.)
  • For pub fare in a classic, mountain setting, stop in at The Logs Inn and enjoy the scene. Located directly off of SR-141 and in the area since the 1930s, they have recently renovated and reopened in August 2020. They also have four cabins for rent. Open Wednesday – Friday, 3pm – 11pm and Saturday/Sunday, 11:30am – 11pm. (8pm on Sunday)
  • The very inviting, family-operated Trout Lake Valley Inn offers modern comfort in a beautiful, rustic setting. Be sure to check out the hot tub as well as the free bicycle and charcoal BBQ loaners! Pet friendly.
  • It’s right there in the name – cozy! The charming, family-operated Trout Lake Cozy Cabins feature modern amenities including Wi-Fi, TVs and outdoor BBQ grills. Roughing it, while not roughing it! Pet friendly.
  • If you’re looking for something truly unique for your Trout Lake stay, head to the Cave Creek Farm. This small herb farm also has cool “glamping” options as well as a farmhouse for rent.
  • For a more modern take on the mountain cabin, check out Getaway Mount Adams. Part of a larger, very cool “getaway” concept, these cabins have everything you need to get away from the city and into the outdoors; while still living in comfort.
Mt Adams
The stunning Mount Adams as seen from the Trout Lake area

One of the most uniquely beautiful and peaceful spots I’ve ever visited in Washington or beyond is located in the Trout Lake area. Resulting from the friendship between a Zen Buddhist monk and a Druid priest, the Trout Lake Abbey is like nothing I’ve ever encountered. The day I visited, I was the only one walking around the grounds and it was one of the most peaceful experiences I’ve had in my life. Granted, COVID likely had something to do with the lack of visitors, but I can’t deny the absolute bliss I enjoyed that afternoon.

Set on a large farm near the base of Mount Adams, the abbey features a Zen Buddhist temple and meditation garden, a Druid sanctuary, organic farm, lavender labyrinth and lodging. (Five private B&B style rooms and a hostel.) They host several retreats throughout the year including yoga, qigong, Chinese medicine, music and dance. Due to COVID, they are currently closed for overnight stays, but will hopefully be resuming lodging soon.

Whatever your ideology, go to this place. Walk around the grounds. Marvel in the peaceful feeling and sense that whoever you are, you are welcome. In these challenging times, it did my heart much good to feel such genuine goodwill – and in such a spectacular setting. I can’t wait for my next visit to the Abbey and hope I’ll be able to stay for longer than an afternoon.

The Gifford Pinchot National Forest is quite large and spans Skamania, Lewis, Yakima, Cowlitz and Klickitat counties. With such a large swath of forest as well as Mount Adams and Mount St. Helens located within its borders, the outdoor endeavors are near limitless. Camping and hiking are two of the most popular activities to add to any adventure and there are so many excellent options when visiting the Trout Lake area. A few ideas for you:

  • Part of a 2000-foot lava cave, the Guler Ice Caves feature a 650 ft long cavern for exploration. Leading down into total darkness, a 20-foot staircase leads you to a treasure trove of icy stalactites and stalagmites. Don’t forget your flashlight and jacket! Check out the Peterson Prairie Campground (summer to September 15th) if you’re interested in camping in the area. (Also great access to huckleberry picking!)
  • If you’re into lovely waterfalls, head to the trailhead for Langfield Falls. Enjoy the 60-foot falls and easy-going hike to get there. The trailhead is located about 25 miles northwest of Trout Lake.
  • If you’re looking for a spot for a nice, lakeside picnic, take the hike to lovely Lemei Lake, west of Trout Lake. (Five miles round-trip from the Cultus Creek Campground)
  • As a former fire lookout location, it makes sense that Sleeping Beauty Peak would offer stunning views and vistas. There is a small bit of elevation gain involved (1400 ft.), but the entire hike is only 2.6 miles round-trip. Not too bad for such amazing scenery! The nearby Trout Lake Creek Campground is a great campsite near the hike. (Trailers and RVs not recommended)
  • More great campsites in the area are the Goose Lake Campground (mid-June thru mid-September – RVs not recommended) and the Oklahoma Campground. (mid-May thru mid-September)

If you’re not afraid of a little snow (or a lot!), the cross-country skiing, snowmobiling and snow-shoeing trails in Gifford-Pinchot are quite impressive and abundant. Beautiful Douglas fir trees covered in snow and the quiet padding of snowshoes are two of my very favorite things. I highly recommend taking a trek into the Gifford-Pinchot forests during the winter season. (A Washington State Sno-Park Permit is required for sno-parks. Get the non-motorized permit for ski and snowshoe and the motorized for snowmobiling. The nearby Mt. Adams Chamber of Commerce & Visitor Center in White Salmon sells non-motorized sno-park permits.)

If you love snowy adventures as much as I do, check out these spots in the Gifford-Pinchot area:

  • The Pineside Sno-Park is located north of Trout Lake and features 20-miles of groomed ski and snowshoe trails. (No snowmobiles allowed on the groomed trails.)
  • The SnowKing Sno-Park can be found a couple of miles beyond the Pineside Sno-Park. It offers both non-motorized and motorized access and features 20-miles of groomed cross-country trails and quite a bit of backcountry ski and snowmobile possibilities. (No groomed snowmobile trails.)
  • Found west of Trout Lake, the Atkisson Sno-Park is big with snowmobilers and offers 154-miles of marked snowmobile trails. There is also a large area of cross-country ski and snowshoe trails. (Marked, not groomed) The area is close to the Guler Ice Caves and Natural Bridges area and has a nice warming hut with wood stove.
  • If you didn’t bring your own gear, Doug’s Hood River and Pure Stoke Sports are great places to gear up. Offering both summer and winter rentals, they are located across the Columbia in lovely Hood River.

If you’d like to fine tune your snow skills, Mount Adams boasts an excellent climbing scene. It is the second highest peak in Washington (12,276 ft) behind Mount Rainier (14, 410 ft) and presents some excellent alpine climbing opportunities. While less technical than Rainier, it still requires an ice axe, crampons and a decent knowledge of mountaineering. If you are not an experienced climber, hire a guide or guide service. (Alpine Ascents or American Alpine Institute are great options) As the weather can change swiftly and dramatically, the Ten Essentials are incredibly important. Always be prepared.

If you’re just starting out in your alpine climbing career, the South Climb route is the “easiest.” It takes off from the South Climb Trailhead (also known as Cold Springs Camp) and can be achieved in a long day if prepared and in shape. That said, camping along the route is generally recommended. (Climbing permits for travel above elevation of 7000 ft. are required from May 1st to September 30th and can be purchased online. Late spring into early October is the typical climbing season.)

Snowshoeing
Snowshoeing is fun!

After cruising around the Trout Lake and Mount Adams area, it was time to head back towards White Salmon. I’d arranged to stay in town for the evening and was looking forward to investigating the downtown area and restaurant scene. A quick drive south on SR-141 brought me into town where I found parking directly in front of the Inn of the White Salmon, the hotel where I was staying. Score!

Once I’d checked in and briefly relaxed in my very comfortable and modern room, it was time to find some dinner. The inn was conveniently located on W. Jewett Boulevard, the main route through town and hot spot for restaurants, shops and more. Just a short walk down this very quaint road landed me directly in the center of town. The evening was coming on, but it was still warm and bright and the sky was just beginning to turn pink and orange with the sunset. Double score!

As White Salmon is a major hub of outdoor pursuits, the vibe around town is very casual and mountain-friendly. Don’t let that low-key vibe fool you, however, as there is a vibrant and delicious restaurant scene to be savored. From casual to fine dining, there are many excellent options, making it the perfect area to complete a day of mountain adventuring. Check out these tasty spots the next time you’re in town:

  • I had one of the best meals in a long time at the delicious Pixan Taqueria & Cantina. To say it was fantastic would be an understatement. I began with a tasty craft margarita paired with hand-cut chips served with house-made cheese, nasturtium leaves, honeycomb, cactus and house-made salsas and sauces. Just that was enough, but I wisely followed it up with a selection of tacos and additional chips, salsa and beer. It’s a good thing my hotel was a block away as I was moving pretty slowly… (Open Monday/Tuesday from 4-9pm, Friday from 4-10pm, Saturday from noon – 10pm and Sunday, noon – 9pm. Closed Wednesday/Thursday.)
  • Sporting an excellent ski theme, Le Doubblé Troubblé Wine Co. is a cool little tasting room in the heart of downtown. Monday and Thursday, Noon – 8pm, Friday – Sunday, Noon – 8pm. (Closed Tuesday/Wednesday)
  • In the mood for fried pickles and beer cheese soup? I know I always am! Everybody’s Brewing in the downtown area is a fun brewery and pub serving tasty beer and great food. Open Sunday/Monday, 11:30am – 9:30pm, Tuesday, 3:30pm – 9:30pm and 10pm on Friday/Saturday. (Closed Wednesday)
  • Serving freshly made bread and pastries along with breakfast and lunch sandwiches, the White Salmon Baking Co. can be found just off Jewett Boulevard. (Open Monday, 5pm – 8pm for pizza night, Wed – Sun, 8am – 3pm. Closed Tuesday.)
  • Henni’s Kitchen & Bar covers the refined dinner and cocktail scene in downtown White Salmon. Using locally-sourced ingredients, their menu pairs very well with a glass or two of local vino. (Open Thursday – Sunday, 5pm – 9pm)
  • Just next door to Henni’s, their sister restaurant Pizza Leona serves up delicious full pies and slices along with refreshing soft-serve ice cream. (Open daily, 4pm – 9pm)
  • The very hip Feast Market & Delicatessen is located in the center of down town and features prepared lunch and dinner options along with fresh meat and seafood, dairy and specialty items. (Open Tuesday – Saturday, 11am – 8pm)
  • Locally-sourced ingredients make up the very tasty menu at the North Shore Café, located in the center of downtown. Serving breakfast, lunch, coffee, tea and more! (Open Friday – Wednesday, 8am – 2pm. Closed Thursdays.)
  • Located off SR-141, heading north towards Trout Lake, the Ruby June Inn & Icehouse Bar offers lodging along with a seasonal Chef’s Collective Dinner Series. Getting a ticket to one of these dinners is high on my bucket list for future visits to the White Salmon area.

In addition to the mighty Columbia, there are several other amazing rivers and creeks flowing through Klickitat County. There is also a lot of crazy wind to add to the adventure. Kayaking, rafting, windsurfing and simply relaxing on the water are just some of the ways to enjoy all the wet stuff. In addition to all the opportunity on the Columbia, there is quite a bit of action happening off of SR-141 in the White Salmon and Trout Lake areas. Considerations for your next water-loving adventure:

  • If whitewater isn’t your thing, keep it mellow with some hiking along the tree-lined creeks of the Jewett Creek Watershed Recreation Area. In addition to hiking, they also feature a BMX bike park and mountain biking trails.
  • The beautiful White Salmon River flows into the Columbia at this point. If you’re a little brave and maybe a little crazy, consider rafting over Husum Falls near BZ Corner. Husum Falls is the tallest commercially rafted waterfall route in the country. Should this sound like the trip for you, hit up local guide services Zoller’s Outdoor Odysseys or Wet Planet Rafting & Kayaking for their excellent guided river trips. (Absolutely on my bucket list for future visits! Maybe not those falls, though…)
  • In need of gear for your crazy, water-filled adventure? Stop in at Immersion Research in White Salmon for some outfitting assistance. (Open daily, 9am – 5pm)
  • Perhaps you’d like to sail over the water rather than through it. Should this be the case, head to Pacific Boardsports / Naish USA for all your windsurfing needs. (Open Monday – Friday, 9am – 5pm)

After I begrudgingly wrapped up my visit to White Salmon, it was time to head home. And back to ye ol’ day job… (I’ll be back soon, White Salmon. I’ll be back!) But since I wasn’t fully committed to making it back in time for my afternoon meeting, I thought I’d check out nearby Bingen and maybe grab a little coffee and breakfast on the way home. A girl’s gotta eat, after all! It was also a gorgeous, sunny morning and I knew from my phone’s weather app it was raining at home… Let’s go get some coffee!

Located on SR-14 and along the Columbia, Bingen holds the keys to much enjoyment and adventure. Beautiful forests are just to the north and one of the country’s most prolific rivers, directly adjacent. It is also very close to the Hood River Bridge and provides easy access to the town of Hood River and Oregon at large. Bingen is a great center of activity and there are many pastimes to pursue while visiting the area; water sports, wine-tasting and sightseeing to name a few.

The Columbia Gorge is a natural wind tunnel and epicenter of windsurfing and all things wind-sporty. If you’d like to try your hand at mastering the winds, these establishments can help you on your way:

  • Just across the bridge in Hood River, both Cascade Kiteboarding (daily 9-5) and Big Winds (daily 10-5) offer rentals, gear for purchase and various wind-worshipping lessons. Kiteboarding, windsurfing, and wing-foiling are a few of their daredevil options.
  • Perhaps you have your own boat or maybe a couple of jet skis, in which case, can I join you on your next trip? We’ll hit up Bingen Harbor and put in at the Bingen Marina. An afternoon of cruising around the Columbia, busting out some waterskiing and windsurfing? (The windsurfing is on you. I’m sticking with water skis.) This is a doable and excellent plan, right??
Mt Hood
Heading out of White Salmon and towards the windy Columbia and Mt. Hood

Unfortunately, I didn’t get much opportunity to investigate the Bingen restaurant scene on my recent visit. (Or go waterskiing!) I will, however, be back very soon and have a few establishments front-loaded on my list:

  • Who doesn’t love a good cup of Joe and a hand pie for breakfast? (or any meal, really) Located in the downtown area, directly on SR-14, Mugs Coffee, serves tasty beverages, pastries, sandwiches and more in a cozy atmosphere. I particularly enjoyed the sausage and egg hand pie. Mmmm!! (Open Monday – Thursday, 6:30am – 4pm, Friday to 3pm and Saturday from 7am – 2pm. Closed Sunday.)
  • Featuring gluten-free baked goods, including hand pies, cakes and pizza crusts, the Columbia Gorge Bakery is very popular throughout the area. They also offer frozen and take-n-bake options. (Open daily at 8am, Sunday at 10am.)
  • If you’re in the mood for Italian, Beneventi’s, located in the heart of downtown is the place to be. Serving pizza, sandwiches, pasta, calzones and more, they are open Monday thru Saturday from 10:30am – 8pm. (Closed Sunday.)
  • Located directly on SR-14 in the downtown area, the appropriately named EAT 14 can help you with that teriyaki and sushi craving. They also have burgers and fries! Open daily, 10:30am – 9pm. (Closed Sunday.)
  • Looking for pub food and BBQ in an old-school tavern scene? Head to Chips Bar & Grill on SR-14 in the downtown area for a drink and tasty food. (Currently undergoing new management and staffing – they hope to reopen soon.)
  • Operating in the area since 1867, the Dickey Farms Produce Market features all things local and fresh. (Including beer and ice cream!) They’re open Monday – Friday, 6am – 7pm (Saturday at 7am, Sunday at 10am)

In addition to river activities, Bingen has many options that don’t require a life vest. If you’re not looking to spend the day on your boat, consider these options: (Also, can I borrow your boat?)

  • Learn all about the greater Bingen area at the Gorge Heritage Museum, located in downtown Bingen. They are open from June 4th – August 31st on Fridays and Saturdays from noon to 4pm.
  • Located in the center of downtown, directly on SR-14, Antiques & Oddities is chock full of odds and ends from days gone by. I was in the area fairly early on my last visit and they weren’t open yet, but I’ll be back! Open daily from 10am – 4pm.
  • A performing arts center featuring live performances and theatre events, the Bingen Theater in downtown is a mainstay of local entertainment. They weren’t operating during COVID, but keep an eye on their website for upcoming events.
  • The Society Hotel looks very cool and I plan to stay there sometime soon. A converted schoolhouse featuring lodging in rooms, bunks and cabins, they also have a spa and bathhouse along with a cozy café and bar. (They also have a pretty cool looking location in downtown Portland.)
  • If you’re looking for local history and charm, check out the historic Joslyn House B&B in downtown Bingen. The oldest house in the Columbia Gorge, (c. 1860) the Joslyn House features multiple rooms with en suite bathrooms.
  • Bonus trip: The historic Columbia Gorge Hotel, located just across the bridge in Hood River is an absolutely beautiful hotel and spa – and it’s haunted! (So they say, but I didn’t see any ghostly visages during my Halloween stay.) Delicious dining, well-appointed rooms, beautiful grounds and a spectacular view of the Gorge – you can’t go wrong!

Since that afternoon meeting of mine was still looming in the distance, it was time to make my way back to the Seattle area. Goodbye enduring sunshine, gorgeous gorge views and towering mountains. Granted, I enjoy most of those things in greater Seattle (minus that whole enduring sunshine bit), but there’s just something so magical and unique about the way Klickitat County does it.

Since I was pressed for time and didn’t want to chance getting stuck in Portland area traffic, I decided to head back towards Goldendale on SR-14 and back out to US-97. Heading west on I-90 towards Seattle just felt like a better option overI-5 on a busy weekday morning. I ended up being very glad of that choice, even considering the never-ending construction on I-90.  

If you have a little more time on your hands, there are a few more ways to return to western Washington (should that be your destination) and some nice side-trips to enjoy along the way:

  • From Bingen and SR-14 take the Hood River Bridge (toll bridge) to I-84 West to Hood River and Portland. Get onI-5 in Portland and head back to the Seattle area. (Toll note: If you aren’t signed up with the BreezeBy toll-pay system, you can pay cash – or online within 7 days if you don’t have cash.)
  • From Bingen, head towards Skamania County on SR-14 and then I-205 towards Five Corners. (a suburb of Vancouver) Take I-5 towards Seattle and beyond. (Bonus trip: Located along SR-14, Beacon Rock State Park is a wonderful area to explore. Overlooking the Columbia River Gorge, this extinct volcano and surrounding area features great hiking, camping, boating and more. The switchback-filled hike to the top of Beacon Rock is an absolute must. (848-ft) Lewis and Clark camped here on their journey – both ways! (I will be covering this area further in my upcoming Skamania County article.)
  • Another great bonus trip while in the Skamania County area takes you to Oregon via I-84 and the Bridge of the Gods toll bridge. Once in Oregon, head for glorious Multnomah Falls and enjoy one of the Northwest’s most photographed and recognizable falls. To get back to the Seattle area from Multnomah Falls, go west on I-84 to I-205 or I-5 in Portland.
STOP
STOP. Stop and look at Mt. Hood before you go.

Well, I guess that wraps up my journey to Klickitat County. This version, anyway… There is so much to see and do in the area and so many opportunities for adventure packed into this relatively small county. I’ve visited several times in the past and I will definitely return many more times in the future. I can’t quit you, Klickitat County! I hope you will join me in appreciating this amazing part of Washington on one of your next adventures.

Until next time – happy trails!

California Poppy
Beautiful California Poppy on the Temani Pesh-wa Petroglyph Trail at Horsethief Butte

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Enjoy the scenery with my Klickitat County SPOTIFY PLAYLIST!

  • Feels Like Lightning – Josh Ritter (from Gathering)
  • Moon in the Water – Dawes (from Nothing is Wrong)
  • A Horse with No Name – America (from America)
  • Miles Away – Josh Ritter (from See Here, I have Built You A Mansion)
  • Wide Open Spaces – The Chicks (from Wide Open Spaces)
  • Only Prettier – Miranda Lambert (from Revolution)
  • Getting Ready to Get Down – Josh Ritter (from Sermon on the Rocks)
  • Newton’s Cradle – Sean Rowe (from New Lore)
  • Lonely Alone – Sheryl Crow, Willie Nelson (from Threads)
  • Ticks – Brad Paisley (from 5th Gear)
  • Sin Wagon – The Chicks (from Fly)
  • Lonesome Town – Ricky Nelson (from Ricky Sings Again)
  • Life Is Beautiful – Keb’ Mo’ (from Just Like You/Suitcase)
  • Horse’s Mouth – Edie Brickell & New Bohemians (from Hunter and the Dog Star)
  • Beautiful World – Colin Hay (from Going Somewhere)
  • Dear Someone – Gillian Welch (from Time (The Revelator))
  • I Only Want to Be with You – Shelby Lynne (from Just A Little Lovin’)
  • World Spins Madly On – The Weepies, Deb Talan, Steven Tannen (from Say I Am You)
  • Wildflowers (Home Recording) – Tom Petty (from Wildflowers & All the Rest)
  • Travelers Paradise – The Cactus Blossoms (from You’re Dreaming)
  • Back in Your Own Backyard – William Galison & Madeline Peyroux (from Got You on My Mind)
  • The Life You Choose – Jason Isbell (from Something More Than Free)
  • Got a Lotta Love – The Cactus Blossoms (from Easy Way)
  • Bluebird – Jamestown Revival (from A Field Guide to Loneliness)
  • No Hard Feelings – The Avett Brothers (from True Sadness)
  • Mr. Policeman – Brad Paisley (from 5th Gear)
  • Baby Snakes  – Frank Zappa (from Sheik Yerbouti)
Free Range
Full-on free range!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Check out more I Ate the State Adventures:

I Ate the State – Island County

Happy New Year from I Ate the State! I’m quite certain it’s going to be a good one – and chock full of Washington State adventure.

To start the year off in coastal style, I’d like to share my recent adventures to the beautiful shores of Island County. Comprised primarily of Whidbey and Camano Islands and located in the upper northwest part of the state, Island County is a wonderful escape from the mainland commotion any time of year. Full of history, sweeping prairies and shorelines, there’s something for everyone to enjoy on these lovely little islands. Holding court as the second smallest county in Washington (by area), one might think there wouldn’t be much to see and do, but they’d be entirely wrong.

True to its name, Island County is indeed a seafaring destination. That said, there are also routes which quite nicely accommodate the four-wheeled traveler. On my recent journey, I hit up the excellent Washington State Ferry system as well as the bridges connecting both Camano and Whidbey Islands to the mainland. One of these days I’d love to arrive via sailboat… #BucketList

Cama View
Looking out towards the Olympics from Cama Beach

To arrive in Camano Island, I drove north on I-5 and took Exit 212 leading to Stanwood. After following SR-532 through Stanwood, I crossed over moody Davis Slough and the Stillaguamish River via the Camano Gateway Bridge and officially entered Island County. For an excellent day trip from the Seattle area, consider a combo visit to both Camano Island and the Stanwood area. While adjacent to each other, they actually span both Snohomish County and Island County. Travel bonus! There are great restaurants, outdoor opportunities and lodging in both areas, making for a great day trip or weekend getaway. For this adventure, however, I was sticking to the gorgeous shores of Island County.

As one of the two largest islands making up Island County, it can be easy at times to forget you’re actually on an island. Filled with beautiful stretches of farmland and forest, Camano Island is an idyllic slice of Northwest living. Driving around the island is a wonderful way to spend the day and the glimpses you’ll catch of surrounding Possession Sound and Port Susan make for a perfectly picturesque road trip.

One of the first places I wanted to visit was the beautiful Kristoferson Farm. Perched on a hill overlooking scenic farmland, this sixth-generation farm (c. 1912 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places) features organic lavender, hay and fruit crops as well as the zip-line outfit, Canopy Tours NW. While I will admit to still mentally recovering from my jungle zip-line incident near Puerto Vallarta, I plan on returning to conquer my zip-line fears on Camano Island in the near future.

To highlight their bounty, they feature related products in their onsite farm store and gift shop. I picked up some delicious culinary lavender on my visit and have been adding it to various bakery and beverage experimentations ever since. Yum! They also host regular farm-to-table Dinner in the Barn events featuring northwest wineries and chefs as well as lavender craft classes. I do plan on making a triumphant return to zip-lining, but I’d be a liar if I said the barn dinners weren’t absolute tops on my list…

If you’re looking for a unique challenge, but zip-lining isn’t your thing, check out some AXE THROWING action just up the road at Arrowhead Ranch. They feature shared and private axe-throwing lanes as well as various workshops. In particular, their Live-Edge Charcuterie Board class is high on my list of things to check out. Wood-working shenanigans which include hors d’oeuvres and local wine? I’m IN! (I wonder if you drink wine while using power tools…)

While Arrowhead Ranch doesn’t offer onsite food or beverage, they do encourage the bring-your-own plan. Located nearby is the excellent Camano Commons, the local hub for restaurants, coffee, gifts and more. Some of the great options to check out:

There are many excellent spots from which to enjoy the shoreline views as well as Camano’s beautiful forested areas. Peoples of the Coast Salish Native American tribes have been visiting the island for thousands of years to harvest the bounty of seafood, berries and to benefit from the natural wonders. The area has been pivotal to the culture of native peoples as well as Euro-American settlers who began moving to the area in the mid-1800s. Driving, hiking, biking and boating around the island – whatever your mode of transportation – it’s easy to understand the appeal and importance of this beautiful locale.

During my own meandering around the island, I spent a bit of time exploring the lovely Cama Beach Historical State Park. Located on the western side of the island, overlooking the Saratoga Passage and onward towards the Olympic Mountains, the park is a true Camano Island gem. Long a destination for vacationing Northwesterners and included on the National Register of Historic Places, the park has been welcoming visitors to its beach-side cedar cabins since 1934. It felt a bit like stepping into a PNW version of the old-school resort in Dirty Dancing… (And remember: NOBODY puts baby in the corner!)

In addition to the Cama Beach Resort cabins, the charming park features a great picnic area, many miles of beautiful hiking trails, the seasonal Cama Beach Store and an events center. If boating is your thing, the Center for Wooden Boats offers boat-building classes and the park features a boat launch and rentals. (Row, sail and motor) And should cabin or outdoor cooking not be your thing, head to the Cama Beach Café for tasty dining options. (Open daily from June thru Labor Day and on weekends for breakfast/lunch, September thru May)

For further enjoyment of the Camano Island shoreline, stroll up the one-mile trail leading south to neighboring Camano Island State Park. (Or hit up nearby Lowell Point Road via West Camano Drive for a quick car ride) While this park also has a small handful of cabins, they feature a large camping area which accommodates both tent and RV camping. In addition to relaxing in the cozy campsites, check out the boating scene and perhaps do a bit of crabbing or saltwater fishing. And as is the case with all Washington State parks, a Discover Pass is recommended for park access. (Daily passes for $10 are also available onsite)

Since it was such a beautiful day on my visit, I opted for a little beach picnic to make the most of the sunshine. In addition to beach picnics, there are several other great dining options on the island. A few places to consider on your next Camano getaway:

  • Not too far from Camano Island State Park, Journey’s End Café (formerly Kara’s Kitchen) offers great burgers, pizza and more. Grab it to go and head back to the beach! They also host regular game nights and feature live music on weekends.
  • Located just across the way from the Kristoferson Farm, Rockaway Bar & Grill serves NW style fare featuring local ingredients. Fresh oysters, fish and produce make for some very delicious menu options.
  • If you happen to be visiting the island during the first weekend of the month and are feeling parched, check out Dusty Cellars Winery and Edward Lynne Cellars for a bit of wine-tasting enjoyment. (First weekend of each month – check websites for hours)
  • Should you like to extend your Camano stay and further enjoy the local scene, head north of Cama Beach State Park on West Camano Drive to the beautiful Camano Island Inn. They feature well-appointed rooms, stunning views and a great location from which to explore the island.

Pro tip: There are many great lodging options on the island – Hit up VRBO and Airbnb to peruse the many possibilities.

Camano Island is fairly large, but it’s still possible to cover the entire island on an afternoon drive. In pursuit of this goal, I was driving around the southern tip of the island, enjoying the views of Port Susan to the east, when I came upon the quaint Tyee Grocery and Farms. After picking up a coffee and quick snack, I continued down East Camano Drive, but was inspired to pull over not too far down the road. I spotted a few art installations and a very cool little lending library with a small, adjacent parking area. A beautiful drive, a little Art and some cool books – Nice! Definitely keep your eyes peeled while rambling around the island as there are great finds around so many of its corners.

Upon wrapping up my tour of Camano Island, it was time to head to neighboring Whidbey Island to continue my coastal adventures. Granted, I did end up making an additional trip to Whidbey Island on a later excursion, but it is absolutely possible to do a grand tour of both islands on a long day or weekend overnighter. That said, it’s hard to not to spend a little extra time in the Deception Pass area as it is positively stunning. And that’s exactly what happened on my first trip out…

Island County
Entering Island County! (As seen from Deception Pass Bridge)

If you happen to have a boat, (#LifeGoals) you can indeed head over the Saratoga Passage from Camano Island to get to Whidbey Island, the largest island in Washington State. The Saratoga Passage is a beautiful stretch of water and a popular section of the Puget Sound waterways. There are no ferries that go between Camano and Whidbey, but you can sometimes see private passenger boats like the Victoria Clipper cruising through both Saratoga Passage and Deception Pass when waters are rough in the nearby Strait of Juan de Fuca. There are also great whale-watching tours such as Deception Pass Tours which regularly travel through the area.

The Coast Salish and Lower Skagit tribes (Now recognized within the Swinomish Nation in neighboring Skagit County) have been stewards of these waters and islands for thousands of years. It’s easy to see how this beautiful, bountiful area could hold such importance to coastal living. Camano Island has many treasures to share, but with Whidbey being the larger island, the bounty is even more plentiful. It is entirely possible to enjoy sweeping forests, coastlines and wide-open prairies on a visit to Whidbey; All of these environments providing a wealth of resources to the enduring island community.

Since I wanted to drive over Deception Pass (on the National Register of Historic Places) to arrive on Whidbey Island, I took Exit 230 off I-5 North (near Burlington in Skagit County) to access SR-20. (SR-20 is also known as the North Cascades Highway or the spectacular Cascade Loop) Once heading west on SR-20, I followed the road until it turned off to the left, just before Anacortes. If you prefer a more seafaring route, take the Mukilteo/Clinton Ferry or Port Townsend/Coupeville Ferry and avoid the crowds of the I-5 corridor. (For another travel bonus trip, link your Island County adventures with Port Townsend and beautiful Jefferson County)

Crossing over Deception Pass is quite a spectacular experience. Whether via car, bike, or foot, it is a beautiful sight to behold. If you happen to be leery of heights, walking over it might not be your bag, but it is well worth the consideration. On my Ragnar Northwest Passage adventure, one of our runners had the opportunity to run across the bridge around sunrise and I’m sure it was amazing. I was traveling over the bridge in the team van at the time and even that was an amazing scene. (The sunrise. Not a bunch of stinky runners piled in a van… not as amazing.) I must admit, however, as much as I love heights, I was completely content to merely walk across the bridge on my own adventure. (Details of my actual bridge visit are included in my Skagit County article)

In addition to the bridge itself, Deception Pass State Park is truly beautiful and should be a must-visit on any list of Northwest destinations. Spanning both Skagit and Island Counties via the bridge, the park has a plethora of camping, hiking, boating, fishing and beach opportunities to enjoy. After becoming a state park in 1922, the Civilian Conservation Corps built roads, buildings and trails and many of the park structures are now on the National Register of Historic Places. It’s easy to feel you’ve stepped back into a quieter, less hectic era when visiting the park. (Check out the in-park CCCs Interpretive Center to learn more about the history of the park.) Don’t miss a visit to this spectacular part of the state! (For even more exploration of the area, stop in a few miles down the road at Deception Pass State Park’s sister park, Dugualla State Park.)

After enjoying the striking scenery of the Deception Pass area, I traveled further south along SR-20 towards the largest city on the island, Oak Harbor. Home to the Whidbey Island Naval Air Station, Oak Harbor is a bustling and vibrant island community. The area is a fun place to explore as well as a center for tasty dining and fun shopping opportunities – and keep an eye out for the naval planes regularly flying overhead.

Naval Base
Just an everyday scene on SR-20 into Oak Harbor…

As you’re coming through town on SR-20, there are quite a few great dining options. All of that adventuring at Deception Pass can make one hungry and there are several great establishments to check out along the main thoroughfare. Just a few of the delicious options:

  • Stop in at Flyers Restaurant & Brewery for great local beers, tasty burgers and more. Located directly off SR-20.
  • Stock up on delicious smoked salmon at Seabolt’s Smokehouse off of SR-20 or hang out and enjoy their lunch and dinner menu. Their clam chowder and Penn Cover oysters are very tasty!
  • The hours are short, but a visit to Kau Kau Corner is well worth the timing. Specializing in Hawaiian comfort food, they offer tempting dishes such as Kalua pork and Spam musubi. (Mon-Fri, 11am – 4pm – Located directly off SR-20)
  • Don’t let the name fool you. In addition to great, organic coffee, Rock Island Coffee has a full menu which includes beer and wine. Check out their skillet mac-n-cheese! (Open ‘til 5pm, M-Sat and 3pm on Sundays)
  • If you’re looking for a classic Oak Harbor joint, check out Island Café, located directly off SR-20. Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner with a classic diner flair.
  • During the late spring and summer, stop in at the Oak Harbor Farmers Market and enjoy some great local produce and artisan goods. (Thursdays, 4-7pm, right off SR-20)

On any visit to Oak Harbor, it’s a great idea to visit the historic Main Street part of town. This waterfront area is filled with fun shops, great restaurants and regular events. It’s the heart of Oak Harbor and can easily accommodate a leisurely day on the town. The full-service Oak Harbor Marina is also located in this area if you happen to be arriving via boat. (#INeedABoat)

On your next visit to Oak Harbor, check out these great spots in the historic downtown waterfront area:

  • Not far before turning off SR-20 to head towards the waterfront, hit up Wicked Teuton Brewing Co. & Homebrew Supply for a tasty local brew or craft soda. This family and pet-friendly taproom is open daily at 11am – Check website for closing times.
  • There are several fun shopping stops to make in the downtown area. A couple of my favorites are the ridiculously cute Popsies with their excellent selection of treats and Purple Moon with their eclectic selection of gifts and more. And don’t forget to stop in at Whidbey Beer Works to peruse their large selection of specialty beers, ciders, wine and meads. (They also do occasional tasting events)

  • Grab a great cup of coffee for your stroll around the waterfront at Whidbey Coffee Co. In addition to their downtown location, they have 11 others in Western Washington. Fun fact: Contrary to their name, they are actually headquartered across the water in Mukilteo, whereas the excellent Mukilteo Coffee Roasters is based on Whidbey Island in nearby Langley. Shenanigans!
  • Closed for the holidays on my recent visit, Chris’ Bakery (since 1948) has been – and will hopefully continue – making delicious pastries, pies, cakes and more for many years to come. Their sweet treats are delicious, but don’t miss out trying their meat pies and amazing bread as well!

  • I enjoyed a tasty, diner-style breakfast on my last visit to Oak Harbor at the Riverside Café. Classic décor and a small, adjacent bar make this a cool spot to visit any time of day. (Breakfast, lunch and dinner)

  • On the finer dining side, head to Rustica Café & Wine Bar (Open at noon, 10am on Sundays for brunch), the Terrace Wine Bar and Bistro (3-10pm, closed Sun/Mon) and lovely Fraser’s Gourmet Hideaway (Tues – Sat, 4:30 – 9:30pm, closed Sun/Mon) for a tasty day or night on the town.
  • If you’re looking to celebrate all things Oak Harbor, be sure to hit up their annual Holland Happening International Festival every April. Pioneer Way and the waterfront is blocked off for craft and food vendors as well live music and beer gardens. (April 23-26, 2020)
  • If you’d like to work off some of that downtown decadence, head a little further towards the water and check out the Wildwood Farm B&B. This equestrian-friendly, 80-acre farm features horse boarding, instruction, training and indoor/outdoor arenas. Guests can also stay in a remodeled 1914 bunkhouse and enjoy beautiful walking trails during their stay. Dreamy!

Heading further south on SR-20 will bring you through some magnificent scenery. There are beautiful farms, pastures and sweeping vistas around every turn and one would be hard-pressed to get bored of the views. The drive itself is interesting, but there are several great stops along the way. One such destination is the awesome Blue Fox Drive-in Theater. Entertaining Whidbey Island since 1959, they feature movies, go-karts, concessions and arcade games. When was the last time you went to a drive-in movie?? Sigh…

In keeping with my, “Hmmm – maybe there’s something cool off in that direction – I should check” plan, I turned off SR-20 onto Hastie Lake Road. I had no idea where it would lead, but the landscapes were gorgeous and I thought maybe it would head towards the water. (But then, most paths on an island typically do at some point…) I’m very glad I did as the drive was stunning and beyond idyllic. Along the way, I passed lovely farmland and spots where I’m pretty sure time had stood still. Around one bend, I stumbled upon the charming Hennrich Tree Farm, busy in full-operation for the holiday season.

Not too far past the tree farm and much as expected, I reached the shoreline. Conveniently located at the intersection of Hastie Lake Road and West Beach Road was the tiny, but perfectly-positioned Hastie Lake County Park. Situated on the shoreline in between private beaches, it was a beautiful spot to pull over and enjoy the view and it brought back some wonderful, unexpected memories.

When I was very young, my family made a couple of visits to Whidbey Island to visit friends. (All the way from very non-coastal Eastern WA) I have vivid memories of their house overlooking the water and a cool rope ladder leading down the bluff to the private beach below. Standing on the shores of Hastie Lake County Park and looking down the beach at the homes overlooking the water brought me right back to my 5-year-old self. I remember being absolutely charmed by coastal living and can honestly say that nothing has since changed. Just dreamy…

Just as I’d hoped, it was both an easy and beautiful loop drive back to SR-20 beginning on West Beach Road. Once back on the highway, I continued south towards my next planned destination, Fort Ebey State Park and Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve. I’d been wanting to visit these areas for quite some time and since there was a fortuitous break in the rain, it seemed like the perfect opportunity.

Pro tip: As helpful as on-board and mobile GPS can be, it’s always good to have a map or printed directions of the area on hand. It’s common to lose satellite or mobile connections in the more remote and forested areas – be prepared! And in the least, have a full tank, water and SNACKS at the ready. Mmm… Snacks…

The first area I visited was Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve. On the National Register of Historic Places and the first National Historic Reserve in the US (established by Congress in 1978 and one of only three presently in the country), the entire area is a one of the most remarkable stretches of land in the state. (And beyond!) I’m sad I hadn’t visited sooner, but am completely grateful to have finally experienced this stunning, expansive beauty in person.

Driving up the access road, the view of gorgeous prairies began to stretch out in front of me as I gained elevation up the hillside. While the prairies expanded, so did the amazing view of the shoreline, making room for the glimmering skyline in the distance. The way the sun was lighting the horizon was exquisite and I can definitively say it was one of the most beautiful views I’ve ever seen.

Ebey Landing
Looking out towards the water from Ebey Landing

The Lower Skagit Tribe has been gazing out over these vistas for thousands of years with western settlements beginning to populate the region in the 1850s. One of the first homesteads was plotted by Whidbey pioneers, Isaac Ebey and his wife, Rebecca Davis. After having established himself in the Olympia area, Isaac brought his family over from Missouri to cultivate the sprawling farmland which is now known as Ebey’s Landing. Their home still stands along with defense blockhouses and acres of presently farmed area.

A leisurely hike through the area via the Ebey’s Landing trails is a must for any Whidbey Island visit and nicely showcases a landscape that has scarcely changed over the last few hundred years. Even just a drive up to the Prairie Landing Overlook to enjoy the coastal and farmland views is well worth it. (Located just across the road from Sunnyside Cemetery (c. 1865) and the Davis Blockhouse. Isaac Ebey and Rebecca Davis as well as Coupeville’s namesake, Thomas Coupe are laid to rest in this cemetery.)

Not too far north up the coast and included within the National Historical Reserve lies Fort Ebey State Park. If you’re up for camping, this is a great location from which to explore the area. Not only is there ample camping, the area is popular with paragliders and surfers and the beaches serve as great seaweed gathering spots in the spring. If you’d like to do some smallmouth bass fishing, check out lovely Lake Pondilla, found in the park’s interior. (Note: Until a recent double-check on my research, I was convinced the name was actually Lake PondZILLA. And that’s what I’ll be personally referring to it as moving forward… But hey, score one for double-checking your research! I had a whole backstory worked out in my head and everything! A fisherman must’ve caught a GIANT fish at some point and told his buddies he caught a Godzilla fish in the pond… Come on, it makes sense! I can’t lie – I feel a little let down…)

While visiting the park, be sure to check out the WWII era battery and gun emplacements. Bring a flashlight and snake through the darkened corridors of the island’s military history. Continue your explorations along the stunning Kettles Trail System which connects the park to the reserve as well as the epic Pacific NW National Scenic Trail. The views and vistas found along these coastal trails are gorgeous and not to be missed. (Even minus the Godzilla Fish…)

Just over from Fort Ebey State Park and off SR-20, lies the historic center of Whidbey Island, the ever-charming Coupeville. While not incorporated until 1910, it is actually the second oldest town in the state. (Steilacoom is the oldest incorporated town in the state) Western settlement began in the 1850s and was led by the city’s namesake, Captain Thomas Coupe. Serving as the county seat and featuring a wonderful, historic waterfront and wharf area (c. 1905), Coupeville is a wonderful town to explore and an excellent look into the evolution of Washington State. Be sure to stop in at the Island County Historical Museum located near the waterfront for an in-depth look at the area’s fascinating history.

Nestled alongside beautiful Penn Cove, Coupeville is fairly compact, making it easy to explore. That said, there are many treasures packed into its tiny downtown and it’s advisable to plan on spending at least a day in the area. The Coupeville Wharf (on the National Register of Historic Places as part of the Ebey’s Landing National Historic Reserve, along with Coupeville in general), is a great place to start your explorations. The views of Penn Cove, downtown Coupeville and Front Street are picture-perfect and the subject of many a northwest photo op.

Grab a cup of coffee at Coffee on the Cove, housed inside the wharf building and enjoy investigating the interpretive displays and exhibits courtesy of the Marine Education Center. Also housed in the historic building is the funky Harbor Gifts shop as well as newly reopened restaurant, The Cove. (Formerly the Cove Café. Note: As of this writing, Yelp and Trip Advisor say they’re closed, but the new owners have recently reopened the spot…) When you’ve finished your visit, head back down to the sailboat you’ve moored nearby and enjoy the beauty of Penn Cove. (#BoatDreams)

Coupeville’s downtown Front Street is an absolutely delightful place to spend an afternoon. Packed into a few blocks are charming shops, restaurants and galleries, all nestled along the shores of beautiful Penn Cove. Consider checking out the walking tour offered by the Coupeville Historic Waterfront Association or discover the area at your own leisure. Either approach will be filled with great finds and tasty treats. A few of the intriguing spots you’ll find along the way:

  • Located next to the wharf boardwalk, Collections Boutique features clothing, accessories and beach-themed gifts.
  • If you’re looking for a cool, local bookstore, check out Kingfisher Bookstore. The building, itself, constructed in 1874 is alone worth a visit and once housed the popular, Benson’s Confectionery. (c. 1915)
  • For all things quirky and hilarious, Far From Normal is the perfect stop. I picked up everything from vintage sheet music to soap and old school candies. Definitely my kind of place…
  • For a lovely selection of clothing, shoes, gift items, soaps and more, stop in at the very quaint Aqua Gifts.
  • Celebrate the NW Dutch influence at A Touch of Dutch. They feature Dutch foods and tasty treats, blue Delftware and more in their incredibly cozy shop.
  • Sporting an excellent view of Penn Cove, Front Street Grill offers tasty seafood and NW coastal dining in their lovely waterfront building. Try some of the famous Penn Cove mussels!
  • Take a break from exploring the shops and enjoy a nice glass of wine at the Vail Wine Shop & Tasting Room. A great glass of vino and an amazing view of Penn Cove – sign me up!
  • Oh, wow… the bread! Stop in at super cute and deliciously tasty Little Red Hen Bakery for fresh baked bread and bakery specialties. Community supported and island sustained!
  • Recently rescued and now under restoration, the Haller House provides a great look at Coupeville’s past. Built on the original land claim of Thomas Coupe, it is an important piece of Coupeville’s history and will be a fine re-addition to the Front Street scene.

For more great shopping and dining options, check out the blocks just above Front Street and the Waterfront area. There is also a nice public parking area adjacent to the Coupeville Library, located just past the Bayleaf shop…

  • The Bayleaf shop features the stuff of foodie dreams. Wonderful artisan meats and cheeses, specialty foods and a great wine selection. Grab things to go or order one of their amazing sandwiches to enjoy in-house.
  • Stop in at Currents Bistro for delicious NW-inspired fare and island ambiance. Featuring locally sourced ingredients, their dishes are delectable.
  • I’m going to have to return to Coupeville soon so I can again try to visit The Oystercatcher. I’ve heard many great things and was excited to stop in, but the line was literally pressed up against the door when I peeked in. Next time!! Mmmm… Oysters… (Their bread has such a following it inspired the creation of the aforementioned Little Red Hen Bakery!)
  • While their local lavender farm doesn’t re-open for the season until June, the lovely Lavender Wind Farm shop is open in downtown Coupeville. (Just across from the Oystercatcher) Walking into the store is like walking into the French countryside. Sigh… Along with a wide variety of culinary and home-based lavender goods, they also feature a coffee bar and baked goods. I greatly enjoyed their lavender caramels and can’t wait to get my hands on some more!
  • Check out Ciao for deliciously crafted pizza, salads and fresh seafood as well as a great lounge area and regular live music. Located just up from downtown on North Main Street.
  • Located on South Main Street, a mile of so west of the downtown core, Penn Cove Brewing Company is an excellent place to take a break. They feature tasty brews, a small menu and various weekly specials. (Also in nearby communities, Oak Harbor and Freeland)

The Coupeville area has many wonderful lodging opportunities, including several traditional B&Bs. You can’t miss the stately Anchorage Inn B&B on North Main Street, just before you enter the Waterfront area and the lovely Blue Goose Inn B&B can be spotted just before. The Compass Rose B&B, with its charming, minty green exterior can be found on South Main Street and for something a little less traditional, consider the rustic, shoreline cabins and rooms at the wonderfully unique Captain Whidbey Inn. They also feature a restaurant and tavern as well as accessibility via boat and seaplane! (Additionally, the drive there via coastal Madrona Way is beautiful!) If camping is your thing, Rhododendron Park, located in Coupeville proper, offers tent and RV camping and great access to local hiking trails.

Shellfish tip: If you’d like to try your hand at gathering some of the famous, local shellfish, the area near Captain Whidbey is wonderful. Check out the West Penn Cove and Twin Lagoons areas, located at the base of Penn Cove. West Penn Cove has clams, mussels & oysters (Mid-July thru Mid-Sept only) and Twin Lagoons has clams, mussels and oysters year-round. Be sure to check the DOH website on day of harvest to ensure the beach is open for shellfish harvesting.

There are already countless things to do in the Coupeville area, but they up the ante with several annual festivals in addition to many surrounding farms to visit and enjoy. A few more reasons to spend some time in Coupeville:

  • Celebrate the jewels of the area at the yearly Penn Cove MusselFest (March 7-8, 2020)
  • Celebrate the waters that host the jewels of the area at the annual Penn Cove Water Festival (May 16, 2020)
  • Many artists and craftspeople call the island home and a great place to check out their wares is at the annual Coupeville Arts & Crafts Festival (August 8-9, 2020)
  • Since 1946, Bell’s Farm has been providing delicious strawberries, produce and more to the island. Head over to their Strawberry Daze celebration in late June and stop by their Honesty Stand to stock up on baked goods, produce, eggs, lamb and strawberries.
  • Stop in at the 3 Sisters Family Farm (c. 1910) for all-natural, ethically and sustainably raised beef, pork, lamb and chickens. The beef and lamb are 100% grass-fed, the pork is fed barley raised on the Island and the chickens are cage-free. Visit their market for all products, snacks, local goods and beverages
  • For a great selection of goods from local farmers and artisans, head to the Coupeville Farmers Market for all things delicious. (Saturdays, April – Oct, 10am – 2pm)

Mirroring its sister, Fort Worden, across the way in Jefferson County, the fascinating Fort Casey Historical State Park is a must-add to your Whidbey Island itinerary. Built in the late 1800’s, Fort Casey, in combination with Fort Worden and nearby Fort Flagler (on Marrowstone Island), formed a very important part of the western US coastal defense network. It is easy to spend hours combing through the catacomb of bunkers and darkened corridors. (Don’t forget to bring a flashlight!) It is also easy to check out both Fort Casey and Fort Worden on a long afternoon. Just hop aboard the nearby Port Townsend/Coupeville ferry and you’re on your way! (Reservations are recommended for this ferry crossing.)

In addition to the military aspect of the park, be sure to pay a visit to the Admiralty Head Lighthouse and learn about the area’s importance to seafaring traffic through the years. There is also great camping, boating and saltwater fishing accessible from within the park and several excellent picnic areas to enjoy. If you’re more interested in checking out historic lodging and grounds, the Fort Casey Inn, located just down the road from the park, is absolutely beautiful.

Heading south on SR-20 towards Fort Casey State Park, the road becomes SR-525 when you hit the turn-off for Fort Casey. (SR-20 continues to and ends at Fort Casey State Park) Continuing south on SR-525 will shortly bring you to the completely charming Greenbank area. The drive is beautiful, showcasing beautiful forested and coastal scenery; a fine area to hit up for a weekend drive. In addition to the wonderful drive, there are several excellent spots to hit up in the Greenbank area. A few of my favorites:

  • It would be entirely enjoyable and advisable to spend an afternoon at historic Greenbank Farm. Beautiful gardens, trails, sweeping farmland, two galleries and glorious picnic ops await you on your next visit. Throw in a stop at the onsite Greenbank Farm Wine Shop and delicious Whidbey Pies Café and you might be there longer than the afternoon. The farm was actually a major stop on the Ragnar race trail and I can’t tell you just how much I enjoyed that giant piece of loganberry pie… WOW! (Mon-Fri, 11am – 6pm, Sat/Sun at 10:30am)

  • The beautiful Meerkerk Rhododendron Gardens, located just south of Greenbank Farm on SR-525 is a lovely and colorful way to while away an afternoon. The Rhododendrons, Washington’s state flower, are glorious and plentiful when in bloom. (I keep looking at the name and seeing Meerkat Gardens, which would also be awesome. Just sayin’.)
  • Great wine, beautiful scenery and a relaxing atmosphere can be found at Holmes Harbor Cellars in the Honeymoon Bay area. (Check website for hours) They are also part of the Whidbey Island Wine & Spirits Trail and annual Red Wine & Chocolate Tour.
  • Don’t miss a stop into this tiny gem of a store. The Greenbank Pantry and Deli is chock full of delicious meats and cheeses as well as local specialty items, a deli counter, baked goods and more. Their Prosciutto Mozz sandwich was SO delicious! They also carry delicious bread from the Little Red Hen Bakery in Coupeville. (Closed Sunday)

A beautiful side-route in the Greenbank area can be found via South Smuggler’s Cove Road along the west side of the island. There’s a wonderful view over to Marrowstone Island in Jefferson County and glorious peeks into hidden coves and shoreline. We drove through this area as part of the Ragnar route and while I was glad to not have to run uphill through the area, I was more than happy to enjoy the scenery from my tired spot in the van. South Whidbey State Park is a nice place to stop along the way if you’d like to hike amongst some very large, old trees. There is sadly no camping due to tree disease, but that shouldn’t stop you from enjoying their beauty. One of the cedars is 500-years old!

Continuing south on SR-525 will bring you to the tiny town of Freeland. For as tiny a town as Freeland is, it is impressive how many cool antique and thrift stores they feature. The same could be said for cool spots to stop and grab a delicious beverage! Throw in a tasty meal and perhaps a stay at the local vegan B&B and you could have a most excellent adventure. A few places to check out on your next Freeland adventure:

  • If you’re up for a truly epic thrift store outing, don’t miss a stop at Senior Thrift, located just off SR-525. It’s remarkable what they’ve packed inside that building! Mutiny Bay Antiques and Red Rooster Antique Mall are both chock full of excellent finds and the Habitat for Humanity Store has amazing bargains to cover your home project needs and more. (Also in Oak Harbor)
  • For a tasty breakfast, lunch or dinner, head to the local staple, Freeland Café & Lounge. Big breakfasts (All day!), tasty burgers, delicious seafood and more have been gracing their tables since 1977.
  • Rocket Taco serves delicious traditional and “deluxe” tacos with all the accoutrements along with tasty margaritas in their cozy Freeland spot. They also have Mexican Chocolate Pots de Crème and Key Lime pie IN A JAR. YUM! (Closed Monday. Also located in Seattle on Capitol Hill!)
  • Take time to wet your whistle at one of Freeland’s fine beverage establishments. Blooms Winery & 5115 Bistro (Closed Tues/Wed, 11am – 8pm otherwise, Fri – 9pm) and Mutiny Bay Distillery (Mon, Thurs-Sat, 11am – 5pm, Sun – Noon – 5pm, Closed Tues/Wed) both offer wonderful wine and spirits – and the 5115 Bistro at Blooms is delicious. Nearby Dancing Fish Vineyards also has lodging should you want to have that extra glass of wine while enjoying a bit of live music. (Thurs, Sat, Sun, Mon – 11am – 6pm, Fri – 11am – 8pm, Tasting room closes at 5pm – Music in bar, 5:30-7:30)
  • Set on 70-acres of beautiful farmland, the Someday Farm Vegan B&B features lodging, walking trails and plenty of farm animals to commune amongst. (They ask you don’t bring animal products with you on your visit to the farm.)
  • Not too far from Freeland is the spectacular, 72-acre Earth Sanctuary. Designed by Chuck Pettis, the sanctuary features stone circles and sculptures, wetlands, a labyrinth, medicine wheels and more. They are presently working on an innovative 500-year Plan to restore the area to its original ecological and environmental best. (Open during daylight hours)
  • Just a little further south in the Mutiny Bay area off SR-525, the Double Bluff Beach & Off-leash Area features a lovely 4-mile round-trip walk along an extensive sandy beach for you and your pooch. There are few things more joyful than watching a dog experience the beach for the first time.

Country Roads
Country roads stretching out for miles…

Nearing the end of my trek across the island, I landed in the lovely town of Langley, known affectionately as The Village by the Sea. Long an important location for trade, resources and artistic endeavors on the island, it remains a mainstay of activity today. If you are heading to the island from the Seattle/Mukilteo area, it is also the first larger town you’ll come to after disembarking in nearby Clinton.

Forged largely of the will and determination of young immigrant, Jacob Anthes, Langley began development in the 1890s and became an incorporated town in 1913. The town continued to grow (including the rabbit population due to a 4-H fair display going amok) and has thoroughly established itself as a vital link from the mainland to Whidbey Island. To learn more about the history of Langley and its founding father, stop by the South Whidbey Historical Museum, housed in a logger’s bunkhouse constructed by Jacob Anthes in 1902. (Interesting note: Jacob Anthes was founder of the unique Whidbey Telecom, still in business and one of the only US telecom companies to have always been privately owned and operated. They were also the first telecom company west of the Rockies to offer Internet services via phone in 1994. All hail the Internets!)

Langley is an excellent and easily accessible get-away from the fast-paced mainland, just 40-minutes away. There are many wonderful things to see and do in the Langley area as well as many delicious restaurants to try. On my recent trip to Langley, I arrived in the evening, so dinner was tops on my to-do list. I happened upon the iconic Bayview Cash Store building (c. 1924) and was very drawn in by the scene. I’m SO glad I stopped as it’s a veritable treasure trove of shops, restaurants and art. A few of the places to check out on your visit:

  • On my recent visit, I was very in the mood for fresh seafood and good beer. The Taproom at Bayview Corner deftly filled both needs and beyond. The delicious crab cakes were accompanied by a very unique and tasty jicama slaw which I’ll fully admit to attempting to recreate at home. Delicious! It should also be noted their tap list is great. They even had my all-time favorite Belgian-style (By way of Quebec’s Unibroue) beer, Maudite on tap. Dreeeeaaaaamy…

  • The charming Farmer & the Vine features a large wine selection as well as small plates and live music.
  • Not only do they serve delicious doughnuts, Whidbey Doughnuts also offers all-day breakfast and tasty sandwiches – including a Monte Cristo. (Note: I’m ever-vigilant and always on the lookout for a good Monte Cristo. Because they are DELICIOUS.) (Sunday thru Wednesday, 6am – 3pm, Thursday thru Saturday, 6am – 8pm)
  • Every July through September, the Island Shakespeare Festival keeps the island entertained with the Bard’s prolific words. The festival headquarters are housed inside the Bayview Cash Store. Pop in and learn about the festival as well as enjoy the revolving art displays inside the main lobby and stairwell areas, hosted by onsite Front Room Gallery.

  • Sharing a parking lot with the Bayview Cash Store is the Bayview Farm & Garden and Flowerhouse Garden Café. The shop, gardens and café, along with the wonderful old farm buildings and community hall make for the quintessential island farm scene. (Café open 8am – 4pm, Garden Store open 9am – 6pm, Mon-Sat, 5pm on Sunday)

  • Situated just past Bayview Farm & Garden lies the excellent Orchard Kitchen. Not only do they serve locally-sourced, seasonal menus featuring their onsite farm, they also host regular cooking classes in their kitchen. Cool! (Open Thurs – Sat in fall/winter and Thurs – Sun in spring/summer)
  • In addition to being a general hub of awesomeness, the Bayview Cash Store also hosts regular street dances during the summer as well as the Bayview Farmers Market on Spring/Summer Saturdays. (April 25 – Oct 16, 10am – 2pm, 2020. Keep an eye out for special Holiday Market hours during the winter months.)

In addition to the great beverage options available at the Bayview Cash Store, there are many other places in the Langley area to enjoy a tasty libation or great cup of coffee. A few of the great spots to check out while you’re visiting the Village by the Sea:

  • If you’re a fan of berries, don’t miss a visit to the lovely Whidbey Island Distillery and its 9-acre estate located just off SR-525. Try their famous liqueurs, particularly the blackberry and be sure to sample their great Rye. (Open daily, 11am – 5pm)
  • In addition to a lovely glass of wine in their tasting room, Comforts of Whidbey Winery also features lodging in their 6-room Bed & Breakfast. Set atop the tasting room with views of the vineyards and Puget Sound, it’s completely justified to include “comforts” in the name. (Thurs/Fri – 1-6pm, Sat – 11am – 6pm, Sun – Noon – 6pm)
  • Stop in for wine and a cabaret show at Ott & Hunter Wines in the heart of downtown Langley with great views of the water. If they don’t already, I deeply hope they feature “Cabernet & Cabaret” evenings. It seems only fair… (Sun-Thurs – 1-8pm, Fri/Sat – 12-10pm, closed Wed)
  • If you’re visiting Langley on the weekend, stop in at Spoiled Dog Winery for a glass of delicious Pinot Noir in their tasting room and enjoy the idyllic surrounds of their estate. (Sat/Sun, Noon-5pm, outside food and non-alcoholic beverage welcome in the outdoor seating area.)
  • Located in the heart of downtown with a great view, Village Wine Shop & Tasting Room offers tastings, a well-stocked selection in their wine shop and regular events. (Wed – Sun, 11am – 6pm)
  • Also found in the lovely downtown area, Double Bluff Brewing features several of their tasty beers in their tap room and cozy outdoor seating area. Kid and dog friendly, outside food welcome. (Mon-Thurs, 3pm – 8pm, Fri/Sat, 2pm – 8pm, Sunday – 2pm – 7pm)
  • For the caffeine lovers in the bunch, Whidbey Island has no shortage of great options. Head to Useless Bay Coffee in the downtown area or Mukilteo Coffee Roasters located near Whidbey Airpark for a delicious cup o’ joe and tasty eats.

Mukilteo Coffee
Excellent coffee from Mukilteo Coffee Roasters!

It is very easy to find a delicious meal in Langley. The downtown area holds the key to many a tasty night (or day) out with a good variety of options from which to choose. Some of the excellent spots to hit up on your visit to the Village by the Sea:

  • Set in a quaint location in the downtown area, The Braeburn features locally sourced ingredients and delicious breakfast, lunch and dinner. Their Bloody Marys and Eggs Benedict (w/crab!) are fabulous and the atmosphere, welcoming and relaxed.
  • Featuring an outdoor kitchen in the back and a beautiful view, Portico Latin Bistro serves cuisine inspired by Mexico, South America and the Caribbean as well as delicious sangria and a great wine list. (Closed Mon/Tues)
  • A good friend and fellow foodie regularly visits Langley and highly recommends the French-inspired Prima Bistro. I haven’t been able to visit as of this writing, but it is high on my list for the next visit. The menu looks amazing and there’s the matter of an Absinthe service they offer… Yes, please!
  • Fresh oysters, clams, mussels, crabs and MORE can be enjoyed at the downtown Saltwater Oyster Bar. Add in delicious clam chowder, oyster po’ boys and hand-cut and battered fish and chips… Yowsa!! Oh, and their ‘Whale Tale Mary’ with its house Mary mix, jumbo shrimp, oyster and salmon jerky? I’M IN!!
  • If you’d like to meet the purveyors of the delicious local goods you’ve enjoyed during your Langley outings, stop by the seasonal Langley Farmers Market located in the downtown area on Frick Lane. (Thursdays, May – August, 2pm – 6pm) If you happen to be in town on a Sunday, pay a visit to the incredibly cool South Whidbey Tilth Market for all things organic. (May – October, 11am – 2pm)
  • I personally believe it is hard to dispute the deliciousness of ice cream and the importance it plays in happy living. Sprinklz, located in the downtown area, serves the key to said happy living as well scores major bonus points with their arcade area. (If you happen to be heading for the ferry, don’t miss their sister location in neighboring Clinton.)

Arcade hot tip: Continue your downtown arcade crawl at the amazing Machine Shop. Featuring vintage pinball and arcade machines as well as the new hotness, the Machine Shop is a step back into your gloriously misspent youth. (Translation: I spent way too many quarters on arcade machines in my glory days… But whatever.) They also feature live music, comedy and other entertaining events on weekends.

Langley has long been known for its eclectic and broad Arts scene. The stunning beauty of the area makes it completely understandable and the artistic inspiration, endless. Even if you’re simply taking photos with your phone, the Langley and greater Whidbey Island area is captivating. Here are just a few of the ways you can explore your artistic side on your next Langley visit:

  • Entertaining the cinema-goers of Whidbey Island since 1937, the Clyde Theatre is still going strong. Regularly showing first-run features as well as hosting special film and community events, the Clyde continues to be beacon of the island Arts scene.
  • Stop in at Museo when in downtown Langley and enjoy their beautiful displays. All manner of fine art from regionally and nationally known local artists can be found on display in this lovely gallery.
  • Enjoy beautifully crafted jewelry, rugs, textiles and more from around the world at the eclectically curated Music for the Eyes in downtown Langley. The owners regularly travel around the world to bring back unique treasures for their shop.
  • If you fancy yourself a prolific solver of crimes, head to the 36th annual Mystery Weekend in February. (Feb 22-23, 2020) On Saturday morning, a crime scene and murder are announced and it’s your job to discover clues in stores, around town and from costumed townsfolk. The “crime” is solved on Sunday afternoon and prizes are announced!
  • If you love Jazz, particularly the catchy jangle of Django Reinhardt, don’t miss the annual Djangofest Northwest every September at the Whidbey Island Fairgrounds. (Organized by the excellent Whidbey Island Center for the Arts) In addition to a celebration of Jazz, there are concerts and workshops of all variety. Fully immerse yourself in the scene and camp at the fairgrounds while enjoying great food and ongoing jam sessions. (Sept 23-27, 2020)
  • Everyone loves a great county fair and Whidbey Island certainly represents. Head to the Whidbey Island Fairgrounds in July for the annual Whidbey Island Fair. Food, farm animals, displays, rides and more greet you in this charming, island fairground. (July 16-19, 2020) Don’t miss the annual Country Christmas event every year around Thanksgiving!

To make the most of your Langley visit, there are several great lodging options and ways to enjoy the beautiful island setting. It is of course entirely possible to make an excellent day trip of Whidbey Island and I’ve done it many times. However, having the luxury of waking up on this very welcoming island is a truly wonderful thing. In addition to the scores of excellent Airbnb and VRBO listings for island lodging, consider adding these great spots to your list:

  • While I haven’t yet had the opportunity to visit, the Inn at Langley is high on my dream-stay bucket list. Upscale lodging, spa services and locally-sourced tasting menus which include table visits from the chef make this a pretty special place to experience. A reliable foodie friend told me it was “the best place he and his wife had ever stayed…” I completely trust him, but I’m looking forward to investigating the delicious scene myself…
  • Just a short stroll from the downtown core and located directly on the water, the Boatyard Inn is a wonderful escape from city life. Located next to the South Whidbey Harbor/Marina, it’s a great spot to drop in your kayak or moor up your boat. Enjoy a glass of wine and the stunning water views from your private deck. Sigh… For kayak rentals as well as info about guided tours and more, stop in at nearby Whidbey Island Kayaking for details. (Opens seasonally in March)
  • If you feel like pitching a tent or swankin’ out in your RV while in the Langley area, head to the nearby Whidbey Island Fairgrounds campground area. The fairgrounds are within walking distance of the downtown core and provide ample room and campsite amenities to make for a comfortable stay.

Ferry
The Clinton ferry arriving in Mukilteo

I hate to admit it, but I don’t often stop in the small town of Clinton. It’s not fair, but I’ve gotten too accustomed to breezing through Clinton on my way off or onto the ferry. (Granted, sometimes there isn’t much breezing, per se, if I happen to be stuck in a long ferry line.) However, even if it’s only because you’ll be spending a bit of extra time waiting for the ferry, Clinton has some great spots to check out and is well worth exploring. And you can’t beat that shoreline view! I’ve officially promised myself to spend more time getting to know the Clinton area…

Pro tip: Sunday afternoons and early evenings can be fairly busy for the ferry. Plan your travel schedule accordingly.

There are many wonderful places to grab a bite and enjoy the view. On your next stop in Clinton, be sure to consider these great locations:

  • Bringing the tradition of the Scottish Isles and Highlands to Whidbey Island, Cadee Distillery & Tasting Room produces several delicious whiskies out of its Clinton distillery. They recommend calling ahead to visit the tasting room. I very much enjoy their Cascadia Rye Whiskey – very tasty! Located very close to the ferry terminal and just off SR-525.
  • Visit the Cultus Bay Distillery on the southern tip of Whidbey Island, just south of the ferry terminal. The tasting room is open daily from 11am – 4pm, but it’s recommended to call ahead to tour/taste. If you happen to miss them, they also set up at the seasonal Bayview Farmers Market on Saturdays. They offer several varieties of spirits, but their Irish Poitin whiskey is particularly interesting.
  • Located just a little north of Cultus Bay Distillery, is Ogres Brewing. (Taproom – Thurs – Sat, 3-7pm – Also featuring gaming and music events) Stop in and enjoy some Ogress Blonde on tap or head over to the very unique, island institution Bailey’s Corner Store and enjoy a pint at the onsite beer garden.
  • Specializing in an international mix of noodle dishes such as Pad See Ew (my favorite!), Mac-n-Cheese and German Späetzle, Island Nosh is a great spot to grab a meal and tasty beverage. Located close to the ferry terminal and just off SR-525. (Winter hours: Mon-Tues, 3:30 – 8pm, Wed-Fri, Noon – 8pm)
  • Set in a building constructed in 1900 and operating as Cozy’s Roadhouse since 1932, this classic Whidbey Island restaurant offers great pub-style food featuring local and NW ingredients. Open daily at 11am and located just off SR-525 near the ferry terminal.
  • If you’re thinking of making Clinton a jumping-off spot for your Whidbey Island adventures, consider a stay at The Quintessa. This large estate overlooking the water features rooms in the main house as well as a lovely cabin. It is also possible to rent the entire estate for larger gatherings.

As I drive onto the welcoming decks of the ferry to Mukilteo, I bring this chapter of my ongoing Island County adventures to a close. There is a special feeling experienced only in the island communities of Washington State that will always bring me back. The amazing combination of history, people, forest, ocean and the Arts is intoxicating and I can’t imagine ever tiring of it. Regardless of wherever I am in the state – or in the world – Island County will always be a place to which I will continue to return and enjoy. And one of these days, I’ll return to its shores… on my boat! (#FutureBoatOwner)

Happy New Year – and GO EAT THE STATE!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Check out my Island County playlist on SPOTIFY

  • Here and Whole – Joan Shelly (from Cost of the Cold b/w Here and Whole)
  • This Sky – The Derek Trucks Band (from Songlines)
  • The Last Drive – Michel Bisceglia (from Bluebird)
  • The Moon Is A Harsh Mistress – Radka Toneff (from Some Time Ago (A Collection of Her Finest Moments))
  • Around and Around – Mountain Man (from Sings John Denver)
  • Sham-A-Ling-Dong-Ding – Jesse Winchester (from Love Filling Station)
  • The Carnival of the Animals, R.125: The Swan – Camille Saint-Saëns, Lucille Clifton, Bill Murray, Jan Vogler (from New Worlds)
  • On A Marché Sur la Lune – Anthony Strong (from Me and My Radio)
  • The Fear – Los Lobos (from The Fear)
  • I Forgive It All – Mudcrutch (from 2)
  • Short Trip Home – Edgar Meyer, Mike Marshall, Sam Bush, Joshua Bell (from The Essential Joshua Bell)
  • Putty Boy Strut – Anat Cohen, Jason Lindner, Joe Martin, Daniel Freedman (from Luminosa)
  • Unconditional Waltz – Calexico (from The Thread that Keeps Us – Deluxe Edition)
  • The Fox – Laura Veirs (from Hello I Must Be Going)
  • Can’t Find My Way Home – Blind Faith (from Blind Faith)
  • Everyone Knows – Mipso (from Old Time Reverie)
  • It’s Hard to Be Humble – Willie Nelson w/Lukas Nelson & Micah Nelson (from Ride Me Back Home)
  • As – Becca Stevens (from Regina)
  • Roll On – The Little Willies (from The Little Willies)
  • Sailing – Christopher Cross (from Christopher Cross)
  • Beautiful That Way – Noa (from Beautiful That Way)
  • I Don’t Worry About A Thing – Most Allison (from I Don’t Worry About A Thing)
  • All Some Kind of A Dream – Josh Ritter (from All Some Kind of A Dream)
  • Tempelhof – Yann Tiersen (from All)
  • Jeannine, I Dream of Lilac Time – Gene Austin (from The Best of Gene Austin)
  • An Old Guitar and An Old Refrain – Roger Wolfe Kahn (from Collection: 1925 – 1932)
  • Sweet Little Mystery – John Martyn (from Grace & Danger)
  • Buckets of Rain – Bob Dylan (from Blood on the Tracks)

West Beach
A beautiful coastal view from West Beach at Deception Pass State Park

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Check out more I Ate the State adventures: