I Ate the State – Yakima County

I love to travel. I love seeing the world, meeting new people, experiencing new things – I love to explore just how I fit into the greater scheme of it all. Learning about this planet we share is at the core of what makes me happy, and the core of that core owes its existence and curiosity to the feature of this edition of I Ate the State.  Please join me in exploring one of my favorite areas in the entire world and place of my birth; the lovely, nearly always sunny, Yakima County.

On the topic of cores, it is impossible to discuss Yakima County without mentioning its profound contribution to the agricultural bounty of Washington State as well as the country. (Vague attempt at apple core/fruit humor. Check.) Yakima County boasts the largest amount of commercial produce crops in Washington State, including producing roughly 78% of the nation’s hops and comes in a close second to California in wine production. Amazingly, there are over 1000 varieties of fruit and vegetables grown in the Yakima Valley area!

Not only does Yakima County feature sweeping orchards, vineyards and hop fields, it is a land rich with rivers, rolling hills and geological wonders, all crowned by the beauty of the Cascade mountain range. Due to its proximity to the Cascades, Yakima County benefits from the resulting rain shadow and typically enjoys around 300 days of sunshine a year. (Giving the city of Yakima the nickname, ‘The Palm Springs of Washington State.’ It’s very official – There’s a billboard on the way into town…) For wine and beer lovers, this climate provides the perfect growing conditions for grapes and hops and contributes greatly to the burgeoning popularity of Washington State wine and beer. As the second largest county in the state with a size larger than the combined areas of Rhode Island and Delaware, there is much to explore and so much to enjoy.

If you’re venturing to Yakima County from the west, which is my usual trajectory, there are several scenic options. In the summer, one of my favorite routes is over Chinook Pass via State Route 410. As you wind towards the top of the pass, you’ll begin to understand why it’s closed during the winter months. It can be precarious enough on a rainy, foggy July day, let alone during the deep snows of winter. The views are absolutely stunning as you look out over the valley and follow the White River to its origin at the base of Mt. Rainier. Near the top, be sure to stop at Tipsoo Lake to enjoy the scenery and take a quick hike around the lake. Often times, when the pass first opens in late spring, the road seems like a gauntlet with snow towering up on both sides of the road. This changes by the time July rolls around and you’ll be met with an explosion of amazing wildflowers and color. It’s truly spectacular.

In addition to the Pacific Crest Trail passing directly across the crest of Chinook Pass, one of my very favorite hikes on the planet takes off from the top off the pass. The Dewey Lake Trail is beautiful and traverses down into the valley alongside Mt. Rainier National Park, arriving appropriately at the lovely Dewey Lake. Camping by the lake is an excellent way to spend a weekend, but as there are a few bodies of water in the area, be sure to bring bug spray. On a clear night, the view of the stars reflecting on the lake is sublime and is actually the inspiration for my upcoming novel, The Secret Galaxy of Stars. (Which I will be finishing soon. For realsies.) Dewey Lake, as well as the smaller, unnamed lakes in the near vicinity are great for summer swimming – bring your suit!

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Once you get over Chinook Pass, the sky widens and the wilderness spreads out in front of you…

Heading over the pass and continuing east, the sky seems to widen and the trees begin to change from denser Douglas Fir and Western Hemlock to the more sparsely populated Ponderosa Pines. The air immediately lightens up and on a summer day, you can almost immediately feel the temperature change. Air-conditioners come on, jackets come off – welcome to Central Washington!

My family has been camping, dirt-biking, hiking and generally adventuring in this part of the state from a time long before I was born. These trees, these rivers, this land is an essential part of my identity and any time I travel through its corridors, a sense of peace and calm takes over. Memories of family and friends, food on sticks and whatever gash or scrape I was nursing from whatever trail I’d wrecked the bike on all come flooding back and the world, at least temporarily, seems right again.

There are so many parts of this area I absolutely love, but here are a few of my personal favorites:

  • In need of a winding, uphill trek on crazy mountain back roads, ending with a sweeping view of Mt. Rainier and surrounding peaks and valleys? Take Forest Service road 1900 (aka: Little Naches Road or FS 19) to Forest Service road 1902 and head up to Ravens Roost Lookout and enjoy the remarkable view. For those of you camping and in need of cell reception, it’s upwards of an hour trek to the lookout, but you’ll likely get a decent connection at the top.
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Late afternoon at Ravens Roost
  • Along the way to Ravens Roost Lookout, there are many campsite areas and scenic spots to stop and check out. (Cliff jumping anyone?) The Naches River is beautiful, with plentiful fishing and recreational opportunities and has been the centerpiece of my family’s camping adventures for decades. On a clear night, the stars are plentiful, the air crisp and the sounds of coyotes, wolves, bear, elk – or maybe it’s just a squirrel – keep the imagination alive and alert around the campfire. While my family does have a tendency to bring everything but the kitchen sink to the campsite bar and grill, there is something to be said for figuring out all the foods one can cook on a stick over an open fire… (Note: There are many excellent areas to backpack and hike in the area, but most of the campsites in this particular area cater more to RVs, ORVs, dirt bikes, etc. There are also several camps used as starting points for horse riding on local area trails.)
  • Bring a flashlight and head over to the Boulder Cave area for a nice hike through the Ponderosa Pine and basalt-walled gully leading down to the cave entrance. The cave is several hundred meters long and has an entrance and exit. Water streams through the cave system and it can be slippery with loose rocks – a flashlight is imperative. This is definitely a great area in which to check out the geology and makeup of this part of the state. And caves are cool!
  • If you’d prefer to not tough it out in a tent or even sort of tough it out in a RV, check out the lodging opportunities at Whistlin’ Jacks in the Cliffdell area. A main point of gathering, lodging and dining in the area since the 1930s, Whistlin’ Jacks is a beacon on the drive between Enumclaw and Yakima. They have a small motel as well as several cabins dotted around the grounds, all located alongside the Naches River. The dining room in the main lodge also features a great view of the river and they serve breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. (Note: If you’re running low on fuel, gas up at Whistlin’ Jacks before heading over the pass – there’s no fuel until Greenwater if you’re headed west – 50 or so miles away!)

If you happen to be coming from the southwest part of the state, hit up US Route 12 (Goes from Aberdeen, WA all the way to Detroit, MI!) over White Pass for a beautiful mountain drive. You’ll pass through several small towns along what is also known as the White Pass Scenic Byway before arriving at the top of the pass and home of the White Pass Ski Area.

On the topic of skiing, White Pass is one of my all-time favorite spots to enjoy such snowy pursuits. The snow is excellent, the skiable areas are abundant and the main lodge has thoroughly maintained its old-school charm. Additionally, it’s still a locally-run operation, the lodge hasn’t changed much since I was a kid and I always meet the friendliest group of winter-enthusiasts every time I visit.

As if the sun and snow weren’t enough, the White Pass ski area also hosts one of my favorite winter destinations ever… Imagine flying down a run on a beautiful, sunny day. Your legs are feeling the burn and you realize just how much you’d love a cold beer and a quick rest… But the lodge is way down at the bottom of the mountain! WHAT DO YOU DO??  And then, just when all hope seems lost, you come around the bend and a delightful little scene appears before your eyes.  Behold the glory of the Mid-mountain Yurt! (Cue angelic choir) It’s usually not crowded and completely feasible to pop off your skis, walk inside and have a cold beer in your hand in total of one minute.  On nice days they often have a BBQ going outside and you can grab a quick brat for some extra energy. Mid-mountain yurt for the win!  (Only open on Saturdays through March 31st) There’s also the High Camp day lodge, with its outdoor BBQ and beer options, but there’s just something to be said for the best-kept-secret of the mid-mountain yurt. Sigh…

If you’d like to stay near the ski hill, there are several options:

  • White Pass Village Inn – Comfortable, condo-style and studio lodging directly across the street from the main ski lodge – with a year-round, outdoor pool!
  • “Lot C” – Camper/RV camping. There’s a parking lot just past the crest of the pass, heading east. It’s first-come-first-served and can get crowded on weekends, but it’s FREE and depending on time of year, you can ski down from the hill, directly to the lot/campsite. There’s also often a cozy, communal fire pit going on into the late night where you can hang out with fellow ski bums.
  • There are many cabin rentals available in the near vicinity. From small cottages to cabins that will comfortably sleep 10+, there are many great options. Hit up VRBO or Airbnb for a great selection. (The one we usually rent sleeps 9 of us, has a great kitchen and a nice outdoor hot tub – about a 20 minute drive to the ski hill.)
  • Packwood Lodge – About a half hour west of White Pass is the little town of Packwood. This is a nice spot located directly off the highway. There is also a RV/camper lot adjacent to the lodge.

In addition to the sacred pastime of downhill skiing and snowboarding, there are also many other outdoor opportunities in the White Pass area.  Hiking, camping, rock climbing, fishing and dirt biking in the summer and snowmobiling and cross-country skiing and snowshoeing in the winter, to name a few. There is definitely no shortage of amazing outdoor opportunities to be had in the White Pass area or its parallel adventure zone, SR 410 and the Chinook Pass area.

Heading east on either SR 410 or US 12, you will arrive in the small town of Naches. Gateway to the Yakima Valley, the sky further opens and the horizon begins to stretch out in front of you. Tucked into the hills overlooking the Naches area is the even smaller town of Tieton. Surrounded by beautiful orchards and vineyards, this area once (and still) dedicated to agricultural pursuits, is now also home to a growing Arts community called Mighty Tieton. They have regular events in the area featuring local artisans and the local cidery, Tieton Cider Works has a new tasting room close to the downtown Yakima area where they showcase their cider creations. (With bocce ball and cornhole!) And if you happen to make the trek over to Tieton Cider Works, also consider stopping into nearby Yakima Craft Brewing. They’ve been brewing great beer for the last 10 years and now have a new tasting room and events space. I’m particularly fond of their Good Monk Belgian blonde and their 1982 red ale. Delicious! (Kid friendly, too!)

When driving through the idyllic hills of the Naches Heights area, a good spot to enjoy the view and a nice glass of wine is the Wilridge Winery & Distillery.  The winery is located on a hill overlooking Naches and is nestled next to well-established orchards and vineyards. On a recent visit, many of the people visiting the winery had made prior stops at nearby “you-pick” cherry orchards to stock up on Rainier cherries and other local varieties.  (Check out Thompson’s Farm or Johnson Orchards for you-pick opportunities throughout the various fruit harvesting seasons.) The tasting room is set inside a 100-year old farmhouse and on summer days, it’s lovely to sit outside on the porch while enjoying your wine tasting. The staff is very accommodating and the tasting experience has a relaxing, homey feel about it.  They also have live music and themed events throughout the year. Additionally, they’re dog-friendly, put out fresh water dishes and like to indulge their four-legged guests with giant treats.

If you’re in need of a little adventure with your wine, there are also rock climbing and rappelling opportunities on nearby cliffs as well as quick access to the Cowiche Canyon Uplands Trails. I was much too interested in wine-tasting endeavors on my recent visit, but hope to check out those areas on my next trip. (Preferably before doing any wine-tasting…)

Driving out of the Naches area, there are many ways to head into Yakima proper. North 16th Ave and North 1st Street are two main thoroughfares available off of US 12, but for the most direct route to the downtown heart of Yakima, I’d recommend hitting up I-82. If you’re heading over from western Washington during the winter, chances are you took I-90 through Ellensburg. (Check out my Kittitas County article for more info about the Ellensburg area and I-90 corridor.) Since I-90 goes over the lowest mountain pass in the state, Snoqualmie Pass, this is hands down the most popular winter route between western and eastern Washington.  That said, I-90 is generally the most popular route year-round, which can make for long drives heading back to western Washington on Sunday afternoons. If you’re good with night driving, it’s often a much better deal to get on the road in the evening and plan for a later return. Stop at a nice restaurant on the way out of town and enjoy the sunset before returning to what very well might be a rainy evening…

On that note, there are many great dining opportunities and general distractions to enjoy in the downtown and greater Yakima area. Since Yakima is my hometown, there are many standards to which I’m loyal. However, with the expansion of the local wine and brewery scene, Yakima is exploding with new and exciting eateries to check out.  Here are a few of my new – and old – favorites:

  • Crafted– Trendy, but relaxed dining in downtown Yakima. Housed in one of Yakima’s classic brick buildings, Crafted offers seasonally-inspired NW cuisine and features locally sourced ingredients. Great food, delicious craft cocktails and a good wine list – A fine addition to the downtown Yakima scene.
  • Cowiche Canyon Kitchen & Icehouse – Located in downtown Yakima, Cowiche Canyon Kitchen & Icehouse is known for great steaks, hand-crafted cocktails and farm-to-table ingredients, all presented in a well-designed, modern setting.
  • Carousel – Right around the corner from Crafted, Carousel offers a NW take on classic French cuisine. Dinner, brunch on Sundays and a well-rounded wine and cocktail offering – check them out!
  • The Sports Center Restaurant & Bar – The Sports Center is classic Yakima and offers a classic American pub-style menu. They regularly feature music and it’s usually a pretty lively scene on the weekends. My dad and I both have played their stage in our early performance days – And back when my dad was a sign man in Yakima, he also worked on the artwork for their iconic neon sign. The Sports Center will always hold a special place in my heart.
  • Essencia Artisan Bakery – Stop by Essencia when downtown and in need of fresh baked pastries, breads, coffee or a tasty, café-style lunch.
  • Golden Wheel Restaurant and Lotus Room – Bringing Cantonese-style Chinese cuisine and powerful cocktails to downtown Yakima for the past 75 years, the Golden Wheel is another Yakima classic.
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Part of the downtown Yakima scene for 75 years!

Even though Yakima has been rocking the nation’s hop scene for many decades, it’s really only been in the past 20 years that local breweries have come on the scene and started taking advantage of the hop bounty.  Some tasty options in the downtown area:

As thankful I am Yakima finally has a local brewing scene, I am extremely thankful to the vintners of the Yakima Valley for fully embracing the area’s vast potential for wine making. (Mmmm – delicious, delicious wine…) The wine-making efforts of Washington State have come to legitimately rival those of California and France and the Yakima Valley is key to this success.  If you’re in the downtown Yakima area, here’s a list of tasting rooms to check out:

  • Gilbert Cellars – Comfortable tasting room in downtown Yakima with a modern flair. I very much enjoy their 2017 Vin du Vallee and their 2012 Reserve No. 2.
  • Antolin Cellars – Across the street from Gilbert Cellars. A cozy atmosphere, friendly staff and tasty wine.
  • Kana Winery – Located in the beautiful, Art Deco style Larson building in downtown Yakima. Stop in for their happy hour tastings and live music.

Downtown Yakima is known for its classic buildings and many are featured on the National Register of Historic Places. One of the things I always loved checking out as a child were the various merchant advertisements painted on the sides of the classic brick buildings. Many of these are still visible and will hopefully continue to stand the test of time and urban development. Some of the gems in downtown Yakima architectural crown:

  • E. Larson Building – Beautiful, Art Deco style building, circa 1931. A true standout in the Yakima skyline housing various businesses. They also have a long-running light display on the side of the building at night which is regularly updated.
  • Hotel Maison – Looking for a classic place to stay while indulging in local wine and beer? Built in 1911 to accommodate the local Masons, it’s now home to Hotel Maison and is a wonderful tribute to the heyday of downtown Yakima. (Well on its way to enjoying the next heyday!)
  • Capitol Theatre – Built in 1920, the Capitol Theatre has hosted quite an amazing array of Arts and Entertainment over the years. (My grandfather performed there in big band shows!) After a horrible fire in the 70s nearly destroyed the theatre, it has been lovingly rebuilt and maintains its strong dedication to Arts in the Yakima Valley area today.
  • Fruit Row – Not really a building, per se, but more a series of buildings and warehouses which greatly helped define the importance of the Yakima fruit growing operation. (And still do!) There is presently a grant in place to fund exploration of making this part of town a National Historic District. I sincerely hope this effort succeeds. In the meantime, it’s an interesting drive through the area roads. Wooden fruit crates stacked tall, in far-stretching rows all the way down the street… My mom worked for the Washington State Fruit Commission back in the day as well as doing much seasonal work at the Snokist cannery. The fruit scene of the Yakima Valley is part of my history and I’m always proud to hear of Yakima Valley produce making its way around the world.

There are many ways to enjoy Yakima and several events and festivals throughout the year can set you on that path:

  • Craft Beverage Yakima Walk – November 10th in downtown Yakima. Walk around the downtown area and sample what all of the cideries, breweries and wine tasting rooms have been up to!
  • Fresh Hop Ale Festival – Takes place at the end of September and features many of the local area breweries. This year it was set up right in front of the historic Capitol Theatre.
  • Yakima Taco Fest – Happening mid-September, it’s a festival of Tacos! Enough said.
  • Yakima Uncorked – Visiting Yakima in June? Consider checking out the Yakima Uncorked festival to learn all about – and taste! – local wine and food.
  • Downtown Yakima Farmer’s Market – Buy directly from local farmers, check out local artisans, enjoy local food – all in the heart of downtown Yakima. (Sundays, May – October)
  • Yakima Valley Museum – There are a few sources responsible for molding me into the nerd I am today, but the birthplace of said nerdiness can be traced directly back to the Yakima Valley Museum. I continue to channel that same sense of wonder I experienced there as a 5-year old anytime I visit museums to this day. Thanks, YVM!
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Now displayed in the Yakima Valley Museum, this neon song is classic Yakima. (My dad worked on the artwork for it!)
  • Franklin Park – Directly next door to the Yakima Valley Museum is the lovely, Franklin Park. I spent many a day with my parents, grandparents and friends enjoying its grounds and it always makes me smile. The terraces in the park are particularly cool in the winter and they have great concerts and festivals during the summer.
  • Birchfield Manor – Just outside of the downtown area, check out the Birchfield Manor inn and restaurant for a delicious meal, a cozy room and a step back into old Yakima charm.
  • Central WA State Fair – Here’s the deal: I LOVE the Central Washington State Fair. I love looking at incredibly intricate fruit/vegetable/agricultural displays. I love checking out vintage tractors. I love eating GIANT “elephant ears” (Fried bread with a lot of cinnamon & sugar on it – YUM!) and hand-dipped corn dogs. I love visiting the horses, cows, chickens, rabbits, goats, etc. and generally taking in the farm animal scene. I looked forward to the fair every year as a kid and I look forward to it presently. Crisp fall air, the smell of the harvest season… Bring it on. Bring me to the fair! (And please bring me another elephant ear. Thanks!)

Yakima is the largest city in the area and the namesake of the county, but there are several other interesting towns and places to visit in the nearby vicinity. Heading east out of Yakima, I-82 is the most popular and direct route. However, for an interesting (and potentially delicious) detour, consider heading out of town via the Union Gap area.

Often considered part of Yakima, Union Gap is its own town and brings important history and charm to the greater Yakima area. It also sits at the official gap in the rolling hills surrounding Yakima, welcoming travelers in and out of the area. Some noteworthy places to visit when in Union Gap:

  • Miner’s Drive-In – Classic burgers in Yakima/Union Gap. Miners has been around for 75 years and shows no sign of slowing down. I have the fondest memories of rolling through their somewhat awkward drive-thru with various family members over the years. The burgers are HUGE, they have awesome shakes and fries and they have the most glorious condiment ever created – FRY SAUCE. No arguments will be entertained. Fry sauce is the best.  Annnnnnnd… SCENE! Go to Miners. You don’t even have to hit up the drive-thru if you don’t want to as they have added ample indoor – and outdoor picnic – seating over the past many years. Go to Miners!
  • Yakima Farmer’s Market – Check out this version of the Yakima Farmer’s Market in the Valley Mall parking lot on Valley Mall Blvd and S. First Street. On my recent visit they had a good variety of stands and produce as well as several great food truck/stand options. One of the stands was serving straight-up high tea – with all the trimmings! (Sundays, May – October)
  • Los Hernandez– Pride of Union Gap – and rightly so – Los Hernandez serves absolutely amazing tamales which recently won a James Beard America’s Classics  Try the asparagus tamales when they’re in season – SO delicious!
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Classic burger drive-in in Union Gap. I think they serve Pepsi…
  • Fruit City – An excellent selection of local produce as well as smoked salmon and cheeses. The staff is very friendly and helpful – and the prices are great! (But don’t shuck the corn. Just don’t.)
  • If snowmobiling is your thing, check out the action around the Tampico area and the Ahtanum State Forest. The trails are plentiful, the snow excellent and the scenery beautiful. This is also a great place to hit up year-round and is equally excellent for ATVs and UTVs as well as general summer outdoor pursuits. I have very fond memories of snowmobiling with my family in this area… Beautiful! Note: You’ll need a Discover Pass when visiting.

Heading out of Union Gap, through the actual gap, will take you in the direction of many small towns along I-82.  If you’re feeling leisurely, another option is to take the Yakima Valley Highway. (Take Exit 40 off of I-82 to hook up with the Yakima Valley Highway.)  The section of I-82 from Union Gap to Prosser wasn’t actually built until the late 70s and the Yakima Valley Highway was one of the main thoroughfares in the area. It can be slow going, but it’s an interesting look at rural Central Washington and how things have developed over the years. (Note: I’ll be covering Prosser, the birthplace of Washington wine, in my upcoming Benton County feature.)

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The actual gap heading into Union Gap!

On the topic of rural sights, there are many beautiful spots in the area highlighting local history as well as many spots which have hardly changed at all over the course of history.  From the ancient rolling hills (which have always reminded me of pushed up, rumpled carpet) to old wooden barns and rusty tractors, it’s easy to forget what era you’re in – especially when there aren’t many cars on the road. There are numerous spots along these Central Washington back roads worth investigating, but here are some of my lifelong favorites:

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Yakama Nation Museum in Toppensish
  • Feeling lucky? In need of some buffet action? Check out the Legends Casino and get started on that new retirement plan.
  • Toppenish is known for its large number of murals painted around town and you can hop a horse-drawn, narrated wagon tour to learn all about them!
  • In celebration of one of the valley’s most lucrative and enjoyable crops, the American Hop Museum will tell you all about how the area grew to become the nation’s premier hop supplier. BEER!
  • Fort Simcoe State Park in the White Swan area is an interesting look into the history of the area’s western settlers and their expansion into the Yakama lands. Note: One of the things I remember vividly from childhood visits were the rattlesnake warning signs posted around the grounds. There are also bears. Watch where you step – and watch after your picnic baskets… You’ll also need a Discover Pass – or there’s also the option of paying a day fee to visit.
  • Have a group of friends and want to do some local area wine-tasting? The Cornerstone Ranch Farmhouse is a good option for lodging while enjoying such pursuits.
  • Located not too far from Toppenish, is the small town of Grandview. On one the many clear days, you’ll have good view of both Mt. Adams and Mt. Rainier as well as a short route to nearby Bill’s Berry Farm. Year-round events (Pumpkin patches and Christmas trees!) and a farm store with fresh berries and take-n-bake pies make this a great stop any time of year.
  • Visit the Teapot Dome Gas Station in nearby Zillah for a dose of kitschy Americana. It was originally built as a send-up on the Teapot Dome Scandal which occurred during the Warren G. Harding administration, but more importantly to me, it always reminds me of my mom. Every time we drove by it on road trips, she’d break out in song…

I’m a little teapot, short and stout

Here is my handle – Here is my spout

When I get all steamed up, hear me shout,

“Tip me over and pour me out!”

If you’re traveling through the Zillah area, there are many local wineries to check out. (Part of the Rattlesnake Hills AVA) On my most recent visit, I spent some very enjoyable time at J. Bell Cellars. Their gorgeous grounds are surrounded by vineyards, orchards, a giant lavender field and play host to quite a few delicious wines. I could’ve easily spent the entire day hanging out. This would certainly be an easy task on a summer weekend as they have an outdoor, brick oven for pizza and other eats, lovely patio seating and regular music events. I very much enjoyed my wine tasting that day, but particularly liked their 2016 Le Blanc and the 2013 Syrah Yakima Valley. They also have a tasting room in the Woodinville area.

Also in the Zillah area:

  • Set atop a beautiful rolling hill with a stunning, 360 degree view of the valley, Knight Hill Winery was a lovely place to stop. I very much enjoyed their 2015 Cabernet Franc.
  • Stop in at the Jones Farms fruit stand for excellent local fruit and produce. (They also have a Yakima location) They feature a straw maze, duck pond and picnic area at the farm proper.
  • Check out The Cherrywood B&B, a working farm where you can stay in a tepee, take a horseback tour of local wineries and enjoy a lovely breakfast on the patio!

Traveling further east on I-82 will bring you to the sunny town of… Sunnyside.  Pun intended – just like Yakima, it’s typically sunny year-round. Super-hot in the summer and super-cold in the winter, but usually always sunny… A portion of my family lives in the Sunnyside area, so I make regular visits to and around the region and I very much enjoy soaking in the vitamin D.

Comparatively, Sunnyside is fairly small in the greater scheme of Washington towns. However, when stacked against the towns between Yakima and the next large urban area, the Tri-Cities, Sunnyside is quite big and very strategically located. It enjoys easy access to an expansive section of wine country as well as being centrally located for Yakima/Tri-Cities work commutes and adventuring. Sunnyside is a great jumping-off point for a bevy of central and eastern Washington exploration as well as being a nice place to visit in and of itself.  A few noteworthy spots to check out on your next visit to the area:

  • Snipes Mountain Brewery & Restaurant – Great beer and tasty pub-style dining, my family has been visiting Snipes for several years. In addition, we’ve hit up their event spaces for wedding receptions, retirement parties, general family celebrations – the list goes on. My only wish is that they bring back the delicious lavender Hefeweisen they were making about 6 or 7 years ago… Please!?
  • Bon Vino’s Bistro & Bakery – I’m fairly certain my dad and stepmom live at this place. Not to say I blame them as the food is delicious, they have great coffee and pastries and their biscuits and gravy breakfast is sublime. They also offer great catering services.
  • Glez Family Restaurant – Classic, low-key local diner with great food and good service. I’ve only enjoyed breakfast there, but they also offer lunch and dinner.
  • Bob’s Drive-In – Bob’s Burgers! Not the show – the actual burgers. A Sunnyside classic, Bob’s Drive-in has been serving burgers, shakes and fries to local residents since 1947!
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Bob’s Drive-in in Sunnyside. Classic!
  • Co Dinn Cellars – New to the downtown Sunnyside area, Co Dinn Cellars is a modern tasting room set inside the former Sunnyside Water Department building. (c. 1930)
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Co Dinn Cellars in downtown Sunnyside.
  • Located directly across the street from Co Dinn Cellars, Varietal Beer Company brings a lively brewing scene to the downtown area. They host a great variety of in-house brews as well as featured guest taps. (Cider, etc.) They don’t have a kitchen, but they regularly host local food trucks in their outdoor patio area. Live music is also featured on the patio on weekends.
  • A well-stocked grocery store featuring a large variety of Hispanic foods, specialties and sundries, Fiesta Foods is a great foodie stop. I love this store and am fairly addicted to their freshly baked jalapeno cream cheese rolls, in-house tortillas and amazing salsas. (Also in Pasco, Yakima and Hermiston)
  • I am a bit of a shoe collector. I admit it. And whenever I’m in town, I love to hit up Taylor’d Footwear. They have a great variety of shoes, boots, clogs, etc. and I always seem to find something I really REALLY NEED. (Back off – I really needed those clogs…)
  • Sunnyside is a key stakeholder in the agricultural and farming development of Central Washington. A couple of great places where you can learn more about the area’s history and contribution:
    • Sunnyside Historical Museum – Check out the many interesting displays featuring local history and development in what used to be the town funeral home. (Spooky!)
    • Located directly across the street from the museum, be sure to investigate Ben Snipes’ Cabin. (c. 1869, originally located 7 miles from current Sunnyside.) Known as the “Northwest Cattle King”, Ben Snipes is credited with giving the name “Horse Heaven” to the area and is the naming inspiration for local Snipes Mountain. (Also an important AVA)

If you’ve been visiting from the western side of the state, rather than returning to Yakima via I-82, consider heading back via WA-241 (Hanford Road) over a 16-mile stretch of the Rattlesnake Hills. Once arriving at the “Yakima Barricade” near the Hanford Site, take a left and head towards Moxee and Yakima via SR-24. (Moxee Highway) This route will take you through beautiful rolling hills and across the geological wonder of the Columbia Plateau. Stark and expansive, this part of the Yakima County can seem timeless when you’re the only one on the road. My favorite time of the year to travel these byways is during March and April when the desert grasses are (briefly) green and the air is fragrant with the smell of sage.  (Note: These routes can get fairly treacherous during the winter months. Drive with caution and be prepared for black ice.)

Once you’ve made it over the hills of SR-24, you’ll arrive at the tiny town of Moxee. Tiny in size, but big in importance, the greater Moxee area is responsible for growing and harvesting approximately 78% of the nation’s hops. A very important job, indeed…

When I was young, my parents decided to move from Yakima and build a new home in the Tri-Cities area. We’d drive from Yakima to Pasco nearly every weekend for what seemed like a thousand years while our hew home was being constructed. We always took the Moxee Highway and my brother and I would sit in the backseat of our sleek Datsun B210 watching mile after mile of hop fields pass by. HOPS AS FAR AS THE EYE CAN SEE!! What seemed like the most boring scene ever to me as a child now seems like an enchanted wonderland in my adult years. #PRIORITIES #BEER

Datsun
Our super sleek, family ride: The Datsun B210. In Kermit Green!

It should also be mentioned that if you happen to be traveling this road on a clear night, once you are away from town, stop and get out of your car. Look up and marvel at just how many stars are visible and just how limitless and vast the sky is. It never ceases to humble me. It is truly beautiful and positively splendid to behold.

If you happen to be in Moxee in early August, hit up the Moxee Hop Festival for a celebration of all things hoppy. I have very fond memories of visiting the festival as a child. Maybe beer and hop-worship wasn’t involved in my earlier years, but I’m prepared to represent as an adult in current festivities. #PRIORITIES #BEER

Not too far away from the Moxee area, stop in at Bale Breaker Brewing Company to partake in the majesty and bounty of the Moxee area hop harvest. Set in the heart of expansive hop fields, Bale Breaker is both a taproom and brewery. It’s family friendly, dog friendly, regularly hosts local food trucks and various events and is a great place to hang out on a sunny afternoon. Sample their brews, play some cornhole, enjoy a bit of local food… Golden! On my recent visit, I very much enjoyed their Sesiones Del Migrante Mango IPA and their Peach, Love & Happiness Blonde. A big favorite of my family is their Topcutter IPA – a standard pick at the aforementioned White Pass Mid-mountain Yurt…

Coming in or out of Yakima on US 12, I-82 or the Yakima River Canyon Scenic Byway, you’ll have the option of hitting up the Selah area. (Check out my Kittitas County feature for more information on the Yakima River Canyon Scenic Byway) Selah is a small town, but there are definitely some cool places to check out. Consider these options when visiting the area:

  • In case you are wondering where the “Apple Juice Capitol of the WORLD” is, wonder no more – it’s in Selah! Help celebrate Washington’s love affair with the apple by visiting the Tree Top Store & Visitor Center All hail the mighty apple!
  • Yakima County has its fair share of old-school burger drive-ins and Kings Row Drive-In is Selah’s contribution to the scene. My mom used to take me there for milkshakes and fries after visiting the dentist as a child. Visit to the dentist to remove sugary treats from teeth = trip to get milkshakes after dentist to reinstall sugary treats to teeth. It’s the dentistry circle of life!
  • Nana Kates – Breakfast, lunch, smoothies, Tree Top juice (of course!), local catering – Check out Nana Kates for many great options!
  • If you’re up for a little outdoor adventure, the Yakima Greenway trail offers many miles of opportunity. (Goes between Union Gap and the Naches/Selah area) There are also many great snowmobiling opportunities in the hills surrounding the Selah area. I have quite a few excellent memories of winter snowmobile adventures with my uncles in this area…
  • Barrett Orchards is located outside the Selah area and is a great option for u-pick fruit. They also have a seasonal pumpkin patch and a store featuring local fruit and wares.
grapes
Delicious Concord Grapes!

Heading back on I-82 towards the western side of the state, there are a few more things to check out before leaving my beloved Yakima County…

In my Kittitas County feature, I made mention of my great love for the Thorp Fruit Stand. Admittedly, I do have a slight bias towards the Thorp Fruit Stand, but I also very much love visiting Precision Fruit & Antiques on my way out of the Yakima area. They have a great seasonal produce offering, delicious local preserves and traditionally canned goods and a great local wine and cider selection. I was also pretty happy with the antique selection on my most recent visit…

Not too far from Precision Fruits and right off of I-82 is the Selah Creek rest stop. Granted, it’s just a rest stop and there’s not a lot to doo, but the view from this area is absolutely spectacular. (Watch out for rattlesnakes!) On a clear day, you can see Mt. Adams and Mt. Rainier from around this area and if you happen to visit near sunset, the scene is breathtaking.  A little further west on I-82 you will cross over Manastash Ridge and Umtanum Ridge. This part of the drive through Yakima County is unpopulated and somewhat forbidding, but the views are amazing and it is one of the largest shrub-steppe habitats remaining in Washington State.

Stationed amidst the sparseness of the area is the Yakima Training Center. (Formerly the Yakima Firing Center) The area is not open to the public and is maintained by the military. Oddly, the area actually factors into how I came to be.  As a young man, my dad was in the army and stationed at Fort Lewis. He came with his unit to the Yakima Firing Center for maneuvers and ended up meeting my mom at a local USO dance. (My mom was Miss USO Washington at the time!) They met, they danced…. And the rest is history. Yakima County history!

And so ends this entry of I Ate the State.  Yakima County is not only near and dear to my heart, it is what actually shaped my heart. Family, experience, memories, life – it is what made me who I am today.  I may have long moved out of its borders, but the (apple) core of me will always proudly reside within its boundaries. Visit the area, enjoy the wine, down a beer, revel in the freshness of the produce – I will be right there with you, savoring every last morsel.

Cheers!

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I Ate the State – Yakima County – The Playlist!

A few tunes I took along on my Yakima County adventure…

  • Carry on My Wayward Son (Anchorman Medley) – Kansas & Will Ferrell
  • Crazy on You – Heart
  • Barracuda – Heart
  • Rocky Mountain High – John Denver
  • Outfit – Drive-by Truckers
  • All Your Favorite Bands – Dawes
  • Dusty Trails – Lucius
  • Magnolia – J.J. Cale
  • Thunderbolt’s Goodnight – Josh Ritter
  • Come and Find Me – Josh Ritter
  • Wherever Is Your Heart – Brandi Carlile
  • The Wind – Zac Brown Band
  • Ready to Run – Dixie Chicks
  • Take A Back Road – Rodney Atkins
  • West Bound and Down – Jerry Reed & Bill Justis

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Check out more I Ate the State adventures:

I Ate the State – Chelan County

Hello! And welcome to the latest edition of I Ate the State – Chelan County style!

My biggest takeaway from recent Chelan County adventures is I haven’t spent nearly enough time in the area. I’ve visited many times over the course of my life in Washington State, but now having focused more closely on the area, WOW – there is seemingly limitless possibility for adventure, beauty, deliciousness and more. Mmmmm…

Lake Chelan
Beautiful Lake Chelan

Chelan County is located in the north central part of Washington and is home to some of the most stunning scenery in the state. Surrounded by the rugged mountain peaks of the North Cascades and the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest and packed with rivers, lakes and beautiful valleys, Chelan County has breathtaking beauty any direction you look. Add in 300 days of sunshine a year to the many unique, idyllic towns gracing the county and it’s absolutely reasonable to start making plans to run away permanently to the area.  (Come on – VPN is a completely valid way to get the job done… Right??)

This journey actually played out over the course of two separate adventures as the area simply has way too much to pack into one day. (Or several days, for that matter) In fact, I think it’s fair to say one could visit every weekend for a year and still have places to see and cool things to check out. Granted, you’ll need trusty transportation if you’re traveling to the area over any of the mountain passes – or for general north central/eastern Washington winter driving. Just as western Washington gets a lot of rain in the fall and winter months, north central/eastern Washington gets a comparable amount of snow.

Heading from the greater Seattle area, we took US Route 2 towards the mountain pass, Stevens Pass. To be added to the ‘Wow – I didn’t realize that’ file, I was foolishly unaware that US Route 2 goes essentially all the way across the northern part of the United States. (Hence, the “US Route” designation. Duh, Dayna.) Along with swearing to finally drive the entire Cascade Loop, which sweeps gloriously through Chelan County and beyond, I will now be adding US Route 2 (in its entirety) to my road trip ‘to do’ bucket list. The more you know…

Stevens Pass
Highway 2 can be a bit precarious in the winter – drive safely!

At the top of the pass, you’ll come to the beautiful Stevens Pass Ski Area. I will admit to not often stopping during the snowless months, which is sad as there are many excellent outdoor adventures to be had in the area. The ski resort is also open during the summer for mountain biking and often hosts fun summer events. On the hiking side, a section of the multi-state Pacific Crest Trail ambles through the area and scores of other beautiful backpacking, camping and hiking opportunities are close by. A few great options to check out:

If you happen to be in the area in the winter and are in need of some exciting vertical challenges, Stevens Pass is a great place to ski and snowboard. Additionally, they have a great Nordic ski and snowshoe area a little further east down the highway. Words of warning: Stevens Pass has a tendency to get incredibly busy on weekends and they have somewhat limited parking which fills up very early. It can be rather frustrating to arrive at 9am and still have to park in the overfill parking well down the road – and then wait a minimum 30 minutes for the shuttle to take you back up to the ski hill.  OR – find that even the overfill parking is full and you have to turn around and go home… There are, however, a few ways to circumvent the parking madness:

  • Leave at an insanely early hour of the morning and get to the hill no later than 8am. Glass half full, you’ll likely get in some first tracks.
  • Take a ski bus or shuttle from either the Seattle/Bellevue area or Leavenworth. Several outdoor outfits offer the service as well as many Leavenworth hotels/lodges.
  • Leave at a completely reasonable hour of the morning and get to the ski hill around noon. Some of the hard core, early bird skiers are starting to leave and you’ll very likely get good parking close to the lodge. Then – ski later in the day and into the night skiing hours. The day lodge and dining options are also much less crowded if you start your ski day while everyone else is trying to grab lunch. Same goes for leaving the hill to head home – you will inevitably hit MUCH less traffic the later you leave. As Highway 2 can get incredibly backed up in either direction, especially after a ski day, it’s worth its weight in gold to not get stuck in it. Bah.
  • Ski during the week. Preferably Tuesday, Wednesday or Thursday. Come on – take the day off – all the cool kids are doin’ it!

Heading further east on Highway 2, you’ll pass a few tiny towns with a couple of service options such as The Squirrel Tree lodge, restaurant and lounge in Coles Corner. (Conveniently next to a little market and gas station.) Largely, however, beautiful mountains and the gorgeous, sometimes treacherous Wenatchee River will be accompanying your travels.

The Wenatchee River is an incredibly popular river for rafting and fishing. There are many areas along the river showcasing calm, deep blue-green pools, but equal are the sweeping sections of dangerous rapids and precarious obstacles. Outfitters such as Alpine Adventures are good options to help guide one through the watery maze. I have yet to make the journey, but whitewater rafting down the Wenatchee River has always been on my bucket list. SOON!

Shortly before entering Leavenworth, look for an Alpen-style building just off the side of Highway 2. Even if you don’t have a sweet tooth, the Alps Candy store is a great place to stop for local specialties, sauces, mustards, pickles, etc. It’s been there since the 60s and is always an interesting place to stop for a snack or just to use the restroom and stretch your legs.

Just as you’re heading into Leavenworth (from the West), you’ll see Icicle Road off to the right. Down this road are great options for lodging, camping, hiking, biking and more. It’s a beautiful road with cool campsites right along the creek. This is also a great road for snowshoeing, cross-country skiing and snowmobiling during the winter months. Some great options in the Icicle Road area:

Snowy Trees
Snowy trees on Highway 2

It’s hard not to be charmed as you’re driving into Leavenworth proper. Especially if it’s a sunny day and you’ve just ventured over from a grey, western Washington day. Home to bright blue skies and surrounded by beautiful mountains and the Wenatchee River, Leavenworth is one of the most unique destinations in the state. Leavenworth has been an established town since the early 1900s, but didn’t come into its current, Bavarian-themed incarnation until the mid-60s. Resurrecting the timber town proved a great success and Leavenworth has become an incredibly popular and charming tourist destination year-round.

Leavenworth
Charming downtown Leavenworth

I’ve visited Leavenworth many times over the years and have enjoyed more than a couple raucous Oktoberfest undertakings. For this excursion, however, I was joined by a true Leavenworth aficionado, one of whom I like to refer to as the mayor of Leavenworth. (He’s not really the mayor, but plays one on TV.) (Not really, but maybe he should.) There was definitely an enduring consumption of wine and beer, joined by delicious meats and accompaniments, but this outing was perhaps a little more civilized than past adventures. (Adventures which may or may not have involved my family, ridiculous amounts of beer and a very lethargic, super majestic RV named ‘Lethargo’)

The first point of action on our very civilized adventure was that of meat procurement. For the record, I’ve taken to bringing a mini-cooler and ice-packs along with me on my escapades. Too many times have I come across goods I’d like to bring home which require refrigeration… My trusty cooler did indeed come in handy that day and we returned home with bacon, Currywurst, chocolate, etc. A fine haul for the day! If you’re looking for items to fill your cooler, I highly recommend the following establishments:

  • Cured – Home to all things meat with a nice side of sauces and condiments to help out the party. I love their Currywurst and was happy to take home a tasty package of it. Suffice to say, it’s long gone… I also grabbed a package of their buckboard bacon and am presently formulating recipe plans…
  • Schocolat – Set in the back of the lovely gift shop Ganz Klasse, local chocolatier, Schocolat offers delicious chocolate treats and beyond. (And they give samples!) The chocolates are a great pairing to local wine-tasting endeavors, but do also try their caramel sauces. I took home the Pear Cinnamon Caramel and I’d be a liar if I said I didn’t eat with a spoon, late at night in the kitchen. With the lights off. Don’t judge me.
Caramel
Does it look like some is missing?
  • The Cheesemonger’s Shop – A longtime favorite stop in Leavenworth, The Cheesemonger’s Shop is a must if a) you like cheese (it’s in the name), b) like mustard and c), like good German beer. (Or real-deal German gummy candy – In the form of Smurfs!) They also have great sausage (Currywurst!) and various cuts of meat. And a cheese of the month club! (Shipped to you direct!)

Continuing with the meat procurement theme, it was time for a stop at the delicious München Haus Bavarian Grill & Beer Garden for a quick beer and sausage. This place is insanely busy all day and night, but it’s well worth the wait. They have a good variety of sausages, excellent toppings and cold, local beer. There are two levels of covered seating and the whole place is filled with beautiful, hanging flower planters. An absolutely lovely spot to take a break… This was a great stop as we perhaps needed a bit of fortifying before embarking upon an afternoon of visiting the plentiful wine-tasting opportunities around the downtown area.

Wine tasting in in Leavenworth is a fine way to spend the day – or better yet, several days. There are far too many places to check out in a day and it is very worthwhile to imbibe in all the town has to offer. Chelan County, along with Washington State in general, is world-renowned for its contributions to the wine world. Leavenworth, in particular, is an excellent place to sample a wonderful cross-section of not only Chelan County offerings, but of the greater Washington State. Several wineries based across the eastern part of Washington host tasting rooms in downtown Leavenworth. If you’re looking for a convenient spot to check out Washington vintners, Leavenworth is the place for you. Some of the tasting rooms we visited:

  • Ryan Patrick – The Woodinville location is very conveniently located for me, but a trip to the Leavenworth location is an excellent idea. In the summer months I lean towards the lighter wines and their Rosé is a particular favorite. But who am I kidding, I’d drink it year-round… Their Rock Island Red and 2015 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon are also delicious.
  • Kestrel Vintners – Okay, there was a decent amount of wine involved, but our stop at Kestrel was pretty entertaining. Excellent wine, well-informed hosts and some rather amusing conversation – it was definitely time well-spent. Of equal importance, they have a wine named SUPER YAKIMA. It is indeed super and it has Yakima in the name – how can you go wrong? (Yakima: City of my birth. Represent.) Additional note – they also have a lovely Woodinville tasting room.
  • Kasia Winery – A cozy tasting room located on the second floor of a classic Leavenworth building on the corner of Front Street. I particularly enjoyed the Wander More 2016 Sauvignon Blanc and the excellent view of the downtown area. They also have a tasting room in Snohomish.
  • Obelisco Estate – Spendy, but tasty, Obelisco wines are easy to enjoy in their well-appointed tasting room. Lovely art, deep-set sofas and an elegant atmosphere all add to the experience. They also have a tasting room in the Woodinville warehouse district.

There are many other wine tasting opportunities to be had in the area. If you’re looking for more of a one-stop location, be sure to head downstairs from Obelisco’s tasting room to the Wine Cellar & Tasting Rooms. Home to wineries such as Patterson Cellars and Walla Walla’s Basel Cellars, you won’t have to walk far to enjoy a good assortment of vintner expertise. (Both wineries mentioned also have Woodinville tasting rooms)

Our sausage stop was initially filling, but wasn’t enough to sustain a full afternoon of wine-tasting shenanigans. Along with the chocolate we procured at Schocolat, another stop found us enjoying delicious fried pickles at the Bären Haus Restaurant across the street from Kasia Winery. (So convenient!) Anyone who knows me, is aware of my undying love of fried pickles. I’ll of course take the pickle chip variety, but Bären Haus features the coveted pickle-spear version. (Just like the People’s Pub in Seattle. RIP.) Fried pickles, you say? I’m in!

Rounding off a great day of wine-tasting, food and sunshine, we enjoyed a rather delicious, northwest-inspired dinner at the Watershed Café on 8th Street, near the river. Featuring locally-sourced ingredients, the Watershed does an excellent job of combining a fusion of techniques and cuisine as well as elevating comfort classics such as the humble meatloaf. From starters to dessert, the meal was delicious – and the bread… I’d happily eat a meal of just the bread and butter. With some Washington wine, of course.

Looking for a more classic, Bavarian-themed meal in Leavenworth? Check out these options:

  • Andreas Keller Restaurant – Andreas Keller has been a part of the Leavenworth scene for many years. Schnitzels, sausages and even Schweinshaxe are featured on the menu. I particularly enjoy their cream of weinkraut soup.
  • Rhein Haus – A favorite Seattle and Tacoma destination, now in Leavenworth! (Although, I’m sad to see they don’t have Bocce Ball like they do at the Seattle/Tacoma locations.) But they do have Currywurst and schnitzels, so I’m gonna let it slide… (Related note: They have schnitzel sliders.)

If you’re up for shopping, checking out the Arts scene or enjoying one of the many events occurring in the area, here’s a (very brief) list of highlights:  (Leavenworth really does have something cool happening every week!)

  • Village Art in the Park – Runs early May through mid-October. Local artists’ market in the center of downtown Leavenworth. Meet the artists and stop to listen to the music featured regularly on the town stage. (Often Bavarian-themed – Bring on the accordion!)
  • The Hat Shop (and the Wood Shop) – One of my favorite stops in town. It’s fair to say I’ve purchased quite a few hats at this shop over the years. (Do I really need that many hats? Yes.)
  • Simply Found Boutique – I particularly love this shop for their quirky shoe and boot offering. They carry the Jafa brand which I absolutely love.
  • Leavenworth Community Farmers Market – Thursdays, June – Oct, 4-8pm. Located near the community pool, check out the local vendors and farmers. Create your own farm-to-table scene!
  • Oktoberfest – I could write an entire article about Oktoberfest. Not quite as extensive as events taking place in Germany, but they do a pretty good job of channeling the vibe. And the beer. And the sausage. Two important notes: If you plan on staying the night during Oktoberfest, plan well in advance. If you plan on parking downtown during Oktoberfest, arrive early.
  • Christkindlmarkt (Thanksgiving weekend) – A lovely holiday market that takes place every year, the weekend after Thanksgiving. I’ve been wanting to go for years and have yet to make it. Maybe this is the year!
  • Christmas tree lighting – A downtown Leavenworth holiday tradition, beginning weekends at the end of November through mid-December. Leavenworth is a winter wonderland this time of year and the town spares no expense in making visitors feel as if they’re walking around in a Christmas tale come to life. Nutcrackers, roasting chestnuts, carolers, St. Nickolaus – all await you during the Leavenworth holiday season. Just as is the case with Oktoberfest, make your arrangements early as things get chaotic this time of year.
  • Leavenworth Snow Train (Alki Tours via Amtrak) – If you’d like to avoid the sometimes dicey drive over the pass, or want to enjoy a nice glass of wine as a train navigates the weather, check out the Leavenworth Snow Train. Note: Get your reservations well in advance. There are very limited offerings and they are quickly reserved.

In addition to the outdoor opportunities mentioned above off of Icicle Road, there are many other options in the area.

  • Leavenworth Ski Hill – Want to check out where the some of the first US ski jumpers trained and competed? The Leavenworth Ski Hill has been in operation since 1928 and is still going strong. It’s a smaller operation with only 2 rope tows, but is certainly a cool bit of Washington State ski history to explore. They also feature Nordic skiing with hiking and biking during the summer months.
  • For more area hiking info, check out the extensive listings HERE.

There are many lodging opportunities in the Leavenworth area. Everything from nice lodges to economy chains are within easy access of the town center. As the area is busy year-round, be sure to make arrangements in advance. There are also many great VRBO and Airbnb options in the area. A few spots to check out:

  • Icicle Village Resort – Nice resort within walking distance of downtown Leavenworth. They have a spa and pool, miniature golf and a game room, regular hotel rooms and condo options for larger parties. Also pet-friendly.
  • Bavarian Ritz Hotel – Located directly in the downtown area, it doesn’t get much more convenient. Stumble back to your room after Oktoberfest… Pet-friendly.
  • Bavarian Lodge – Located directly on Highway 2, in the center of Leavenworth. Nice rooms, outdoor pool and hot tubs and within easy walking distance of downtown.
  • Loge Leavenworth – For the NW outdoor set, the Loge features cool cabins as well as group-style hostel accommodations. I haven’t stayed here yet, but I REALLY want to.
Leavenworth
Bavarian themed lodging in Leavenworth

Just down the road from Leavenworth on Highway 2, you’ll drive through the tiny burg of Peshastin. If you happen to be driving through in the spring, be prepared for a spectacular display of blossoming fruit trees. The scent of blossoms fills the air and it’s quite the dreamy, fragrant experience.

Right along the highway, you’ll come upon the Smallwood’s Harvest fruit stand and country store. This is a great stop for an interesting snack (Cherry flavored pickles, anyone?) as well a great place to stock up on farm-fresh produce or enjoy a quick wine-tasting in their tasting room. Packed inside the quirky store are rooms filled with only taffy or cotton candy, candy and sodas, chickens telling jokes and an impressively large offering of all things pickled. They also have a great outdoor seating area, kettle corn and cotton candy and a COW TRAIN ride for the kids. It’s definitely a worthwhile stop for the whole family.

Not too far from Peshastin, look for signs leading to the small town of Cashmere. I have friends who live a few miles down the road from the area, directly on the Wenatchee River. I love visiting and absolutely envy the quiet calm of life on the river. The glorious weather and quick access to the Applets and Cotlets factory isn’t too shabby a deal, either.

Downtown Cashmere is a picturesque, well-preserved slice of historic Washington. The Wenatchee River runs through the town and longtime businesses such as Liberty Orchard’s Applets & Cotlets factory are featured in the history and industry of the town. (Try the fruit sours – do the factory tour!) Most importantly, in my opinion, they feature a Gnomes of Cashmere walking trail in and around town! (Dad, I’m lookin’ at YOU.) They also feature Cashmere Apple Days in early October, sponsored by the local Cashmere Museum and Pioneer Village.

If you’re looking for food and beverage options, check out the following Cashmere favorites:

  • Milepost 111 Brewing Company – Craft brewing and pub-style food in downtown Cashmere.
  • Rusty’s Drive-In – Classic drive-in burger stand right off Highway 2. A fine late-night option when in need of fries and a corn dog…
  • Country Boy’s BBQ – Popular BBQ spot in the heart of Cashmere
  • Cashmere Cider Mill – Artisan (non-alcoholic) cider mill in the beautiful Cashmere valley. Lodging and event space is also available. Stop in for a tasting and snack – or bring in your own apples and have them create your own custom blend!
  • Barns Etc. Hard Cider Shed – Located a couple of miles off Highway 2, stop in for a pint of hard cider.
  • Apple Annie Antique Gallery and 59er Diner – Located directly off Highway 2 and just outside Cashmere, this is a must-stop if you’re in the mood for antiquing. 70,000 square feet, chock full of antiques and collectibles. I’m still lamenting the day I walked away from a mint-condition, full-headed Darth Vader mask. (Complete with breathing FX.) If you need more than a few hours to check out the scene, they have lodging packages

Next destination on the Chelan County docket was the gorgeous town of Lake Chelan and its namesake, 50.5-mile long body of water. Turning off of Highway 2, we followed US Route – Alt 97 towards the south side of the lake. To say this part of the state is magnificently breathtaking would be an absurd understatement altogether…

Following along the Columbia River, past the Rocky Reach Dam and Visitor Center and the tiny town of Entiat, the highway rambles past amazing displays of ice age geology and hints at the force which shaped the area. Also note the turn-off for Ohme Gardens. I haven’t visited yet, but it looks like a lovely spot to explore and I’m looking forward to doing so on my next visit to the area.

As we were initially heading towards local wine-tasting opportunities, we turned off onto SR-971 (S. Lakeshore Drive) to drive along the south side of the lake. It was apparent we were in for a magical day when, just past the turn-off, we encountered a doe and her three little fauns casually grazing on the side of the road. The deer family, the stunning vista of the brilliant blue water and sky as we descended towards the lake and the perfectly puffy clouds dotting the sky signaled we were about to enjoy quite a lovely afternoon.

There are many wineries and tasting rooms in the Lake Chelan area. Since we were only in town for the day, our reach was somewhat limited. (For a good overview of local offerings, check out the Lake Chelan Wine Valley site.) With a loose outline of interesting sounding spots in hand, we headed first towards Karma Vineyards and its onsite restaurant, 18 Brix. I’m so glad this was our first stop as not only was the wine delicious and the food tasty, the grounds were gorgeous, the staff was genuine and the on-premises wine “cave” was truly cool. (Both aesthetically and temperature-wise) It definitely set a high bar for the day and I absolutely could’ve spent the entire day and evening just hanging out on the grounds. For the record, I highly recommend their 2014 Pink Brut and well as their well-represented charcuterie plate.

Next on the list was Tsillan Cellars, located a little before Karma Vineyards off of Alt-97. The grounds were spectacular and wandering around the Italian-themed landscaping is worth a visit in and of itself. The winery and vineyards are perched perfectly, overlooking the south side of the lake and the view itself is noted as award-winning. The tasting room is large and comfortably arranged with a friendly and knowledgeable staff and a good selection of wines to sample. After visiting other Lake Chelan locations, we later returned to their Sorrento’s Ristorante for dinner and a little more wine in their tasting room.

Also to be considered in the realm of liquid refreshments is the vibrant hard cider scene of Lake Chelan. Check out the Lake Chelan Cider Trail for a good representation of what the area has to offer.

If you’d like to explore more than a day-trip’s worth of adventure, there are many great lodging options in and around the Lake Chelan area. Resorts, mountain lodges, cabins, hotels, B&B’s – you name it, Lake Chelan has it. A few good possibilities:

  • Campbell’s Resort and Campbell’s Pub & Veranda – Right on shores of downtown Lake Chelan with a beautiful, sandy beach for guests to enjoy.
  • Darnell’s Lake Resort – It’s in the name – it’s on the lake! Also with sandy beachfront and all the amenities needed for relaxation.
  • Riverwalk Inn & Café – Historic small hotel and café in downtown Chelan.
  • Mountain View Lodge & Resort – Located close to Lake Chelan in the town of Manson, they feature traditional rooms along with suites and townhomes for larger parties.
  • Howard’s on the River – Waterfront hotel located on the beautiful Columbia River in the nearby town of Pateros. Also features the Rivers Restaurant.
  • Watson’s Harverene Resort – Located on the south shore, Watson’s is old-school Lake Chelan. Built between the 30s and 40s on the original Watson homestead, it’s still run by the Watson family today. Lodging includes cabins, lodges and rustic lake front scenery. Located nearby is Watson’s Alpenhorn Café. (Open primarily summer months and serving the area since 1966.)
  • In the category of full-on bucket list lodging needs, check out the Hobbit House, located in the greater Chelan area. It’s an ‘Underground Hygge’ (Earth House) and is modeled after an actual Lord of the Rings hobbit house. I NEED TO STAY HERE.

For additional dining opportunities in the downtown Lake Chelan and surrounding area, consider these establishments:

If you are an outdoor enthusiast of any kind, Lake Chelan can represent – All seasons, all tastes. The lake activities are near limitless and the hiking, biking, skiing, and sightseeing opportunities in the surrounding mountains are amazing.

One of my very favorite things to do in the area is to take the 3-hour boat cruise up Lake Chelan on the Lady of the Lake to the remote village of Stehekin. The only way into Stehekin is by boat, float plane or on foot. There are around 100 year-round residents in the area and it’s one of the most remote zip codes in the state. If you’re lucky enough to visit, be sure to check out the spectacular 312-ft Rainbow Falls. Aside from camping opportunities in the area, there is limited lodging available at the North Cascades Lodge at Stehekin and through VRBO and Airbnb. For other lodging and activity ideas, check out the Stehekin Valley site.

Lake Chelan
So many watery opportunities on Lake Chelan

A few great options for hikes in the Stehekin area:

If you’re looking to try any of the summer boating or water sports offerings in the area, here’s a quick list to get you started:

  • A quick camping primer for the area
  • Kelly’s Resort – Rustic lakeside resort and cabins on the south shore of Lake Chelan. Boat, swim, fish – enjoy the lake!
  • Learn about all manner of watersports, etc. available in the Lake Chelan area
  • Slidewaters Waterpark – Get wet while careening down a 75-ft vertical drop! Open during the summer months.

For the hiking set and those seeking winter sport options:

This is all just a small scratch on the surface of the beauty, tastes and adventure the Lake Chelan area has to offer. It’s a wonderful place to visit anytime of the year and if I could possibly work out a way to “work from home”, I very well might consider Lake Chelan the perfect spot to hang my hat(s).

Wrapping up the Chelan County adventures brings us to the Wenatchee area. While we didn’t visit Wenatchee on this particular journey, I’ve spent much time over the years in the area visiting family, enjoying the surrounding areas, skiing and more. Wenatchee is the county seat of Chelan County and a well-established, historic north-central Washington destination. Famous for their immense contributions to the fruit-growing operations of the state (Apple capital of the world!) as well as their important stake in the state’s railway industry, Wenatchee is an integral area to the development of Washington State. Check out the yearly Apple Blossom Festival for a great celebration of all things apple!

Wenatchee enjoys a fertile stretch of valleys and orchards (Fruit stands!) as well as the beauty of the surrounding mountains and rivers. As a child, our close family friends lived in Wenatchee and we visited often. My Uncle Pat had a very cool, beautifully restored Model-T Ford (or possibly a Model-A – I was young…) and he used to take us for rides up into the mountains – complete with rumble seat!

Not only is Wenatchee close to amazing mountains and outdoor pursuits, it has quite a fascinating geological history. In recent decades, much geologic and archaeological work has gone into studying the Ice Age Floods and indigenous people of the area and there are several amazing places to check out in and around the area.

  • The Ice Age Floods National Geologic Trail is an ongoing National Park Service project meant to provide insight and education into how the Wenatchee Valley and surrounding areas were formed during the last Ice Age. (Starting from Missoula, Montana and extending all the way down through Washington and into Oregon.) The trail is an extensive auto route, but many of the included areas also feature local hikes. Check out the Ice Age Floods Institute for more info.
  • Not only is the Wenatchee Valley Museum a cool spot to visit, they also host bus tours which will take you to key areas of geologic interest and indigenous history around the greater Wenatchee Valley.

If you are looking for outdoor adventure in the area, Wenatchee doesn’t disappoint. Some of the more popular places to add to your Wenatchee list:

  • At the joining of the Columbia and Wenatchee Rivers, Confluence State Park offers camping, hiking and great access to watery pursuits. The Horan Natural Area and hiking trails are in the vicinity and are well worth checking out. (NOTE: Sadly, there is no JIRA park to check out…)
  • For beautiful, close-up views of the Columbia River, the Apple Capitol Loop Trail provides a 10-mile loop trail along the river. (It spans 5 miles on Wenatchee side and 5 miles on Douglas County side)
  • For ski and snowboard enthusiasts, Mission Ridge is a great place to hit up. Tucked away, high on the east side of the Cascade Mountains and about a 30-minute drive from Wenatchee, it is a much less crowded ski hill than Stevens Pass and features high and dry powder and a lot of sunshine. Several Wenatchee and Leavenworth hotels feature ski package deals and there is a FREE, regular shuttle from Wenatchee up to the ski hill. (They also have shuttles from western Washington!) There are also many lodging options on the way up to the ski hill. Check out the Mission Ridge website along with VRBO and Airbnb for good options.

Taking advantage of all the excellent outdoor opportunities can make one hungry. A few Wenatchee eateries and markets that are there to help:

And with that, I shall bring this edition of I Ate the State to a close. (And maybe go get some pie…) I wish very much I’d been able to commit a solid week to tooling around Chelan County and more deeply enjoying its impressive bounty. However, wine glass half-full, I now have so many reasons to return to the area – again and again. It is indeed an expansive county, but to think of all the varied landscapes, history, food, wine, and outdoor opportunities it contains is simply mind-blowing. I can’t wait to uncover more of everything on my next visit!

Until next time – Cheers!

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Chelan County Playlist

Check it out on Spotify 

  • Common Free StyleThe RH Factor, Common (Starting things off funky – we left kind of early…)
  • Crabbuckit K-OS
  • Harry PalmerCorduroy
  • La Coda Del Diavolo – Karminsky RemixNicola Conte
  • Norwegian WoodVictor Wooten
  • You’re All I Need to Get ByAretha Franklin
  • Not Going Anywhere Keren Ann (Moving towards the wine-tasting vibe of the day…)
  • Quelqu’un m’a ditCarla Bruni
  • Les Etoiles (Live)Melody Gardot
  • Non, je ne regrette rienÉdith Piaf
  • La conga bilicotiJosephine Baker
  • Sympathique (Je ne veux pas travailler)Pink Martini
  • Where or When (from “Babes in Arms”)Lena Horne
  • Nocturnes, Op. 9: No. 2, Andante in E-flat Major Frédéric Chopin (Perf. by Elisabeth Leonskaja)
  • Moonlight SerenadeGlenn Miller Orchestra
  • Hang on Little TomatoPink Martini
  • I Want to Be EvilChiwetel Ejiofor (I love the classic Eartha Kitt version, but this is great, too!)
  • Back in Black AC/DC (And now it’s time to try and stay awake for the drive home…)
  • Paradise By the Dashboard LightMeat Loaf
  • Wake Me Up Before You Go-Go – Wham!
  • The Power of LoveHuey Lewis & the News

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Check out more I Ate the State Adventures:

I Ate the State: Kittitas County

Greetings!

I have the fondest memories of Kittitas County, both past and present. From childhood to teenage years, it was gateway to the magical land of towering mountains and all shades of lush green. Having spent my formative years in the arid and hot, relatively flat expanse of eastern Washington, it was always total nirvana to travel to the “other” side of the state. I perceived it as an absolute divide between east and west. It was a line of demarcation between two very different sides of the state; two environmentally, culturally, and politically different halves of the whole. Now in my adult years, I’ve come to appreciate it as the bridge which brings Washington together. I see it as the part of the state which gloriously blends the beauty, uniqueness, history and future of the state together.

Since I presently live in western Washington, I am all too accustomed to the lush green of the state. (i.e. it rains A LOT in western Washington.) I still love it and will admit to preferring said lushness, but there is a core part of me which yearns for the expansion that occurs once you pass over the Cascades. Beyond any of the mountain passes, once you cross over from western Washington, the sky starts to open up, the landscape widens and the trees begin to grow sparse. The foliage changes, the prairies and brush spread out and the start of sage country begins to unfold around you. The air noticeably becomes less heavy and humid and depending on time of year, the temperature grows either much colder or much, much hotter.  Gone are the relatively mild days of western Washington and its nebulous mash-up of SpringSummerFallWinter. Say hello to four, very distinct seasons with many unique environments and extremes.  Stunning in so many ways, this part of the state is the best of both worlds as well as being a truly distinctive setting all its own. Welcome to Kittitas County!

Canyon Road
The rolling hills of Central WA off of Canyon Road

Kittitas County encompasses a large portion of land from the Cascades and Snoqualmie Pass down to just past its county seat, Ellensburg. The towns are fairly spread out and accommodate upwards of 50,000 members of the state’s population. Settler expansion into this part of Washington State began around the late 1850s with the Native American Yakama Nation having called the land home for many generations prior. Mining, logging, cattle ranching and farming were among the chief draws to the area, bringing people from around the country as well as immigrants from many other countries. Towns such as Ronald, Roslyn and Thorp which may seem fairly sleepy these days, were busy hubs of commerce and activity well into the mid-1900s.

The first stopping point on my Kittitas County tour is the Snoqualmie Pass area, via Interstate-90. Straddling the line between King and Kittitas Counties, The Pass (as it’s often referred to in the Seattle area) is a great day trip option if you’re coming from the Westside. In the winter, you’ve got the allure of the Summit at Snoqualmie ski area with additional tubing, cross-country skiing/snowshoeing and snowmobiling opportunities nearby. In the summer, there are countless hiking, camping and backpacking options as well as it being a good midway stop for travels between western and eastern Washington. (Gas, coffee, bathroom – it has all the things!) Here are a few of my favorite spots and things to do in the Snoqualmie Pass area:

Snoqualmie Pass - Summer
Summer on Snoqualmie Pass

For a quick shot of winter shenanigans, the Summit at Snoqualmie is a relatively painless drive from the greater Seattle area. (Weather depending)  Viewed from the I-90 freeway, it might give the impression of being a smaller ski hill, but the area is actually quite extensive. It contains three, trail-connected ski areas with numerous runs on the backside as well as many trails on the neighboring ski hill, Alpental.  If cross-country skiing or snowshoeing is your thing, check out the scene at the Nordic Center. If you’ve got a group that prefers careening down a hill without something strapped to their feet, hit up the tubing hill across the street from the main ski hill. There is truly an outdoor option for everyone in the family!

For the non-outdoor enthusiasts visiting the area, there are several dining, drinking and general tourist possibilities available. Some are actually part of the ski lodges, but there are additional (and often less hectic) options to be found in near reach of the ski hills. (Year round)

  • If you’re in the market for a good pint and a break from your travels, stop into the Dru Bru brewery just west of the ski area. Super friendly and knowledgeable staff, a great beer selection and conveniently located next door to…
  • A newer addition to the Snoqualmie food scene, (along with neighbor, Dru Bru) The Commonwealth offers a great selection of pub-style food and drink. (Family friendly!) There is something to be said for the convenience of skiing down to the lodge, popping off your skis and quickly grabbing a beer or snack. However, as the lines are often long during the ski season, it’s a nice break to head down the road for a late lunch or dinner on the way home. (Or during any other time of the year!)
  • For the ski and snowboard enthusiasts, be sure to pop into the WA State Ski and Snowboard Museum, located in the same building as The Commonwealth and Dru Bru. It’s a great tribute to the history of downhill snow sports in the state and fun to see how far the pursuit of speeding down snowy hills has come over the last many decades.

In the summertime, there are plenty of snow-free activities to entertain both the nature-lover and just-passing-through traveler alike. Hiking, biking, dining, rest stops, backpacking, camping, swimming – it’s a summer wonderland!

As part of the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest, there are countless hiking trails to explore in the Snoqualmie Pass area. The Alpine Lakes Wilderness offers many breathtaking views and dreamy mountain lake access. Part of the epic, 2000-mile Pacific Crest Trail ambles through the area and there’s even an amazing, re-purposed train tunnel you can hike or bike through. (Bring headlamps or flashlights – it’s 2.25 miles and the longest trail tunnel in the world!) During the winter months, if you’re parking in areas other than the ski hills or local area commerce, look out for lots requiring a Sno-Park pass. In the summer months, be aware of those requiring a Discover Pass.

If you’re in need of lodging, I’d recommend investigating VRBO or Airbnb as there are many great cabins and cottages to rent in the area. Neighboring towns such as Suncadia, Roslyn, Easton and Cle Elum also have great possibilities and are a fairly quick drive to Snoqualmie Pass. (Weather permitting, of course.)

For the traveler in need of services, The Pass is an easily accessible visit off and back onto the freeway. There are restaurants, gas stations, coffee spots and restroom facilities located along the main road. (Highway 906)  If you’re coming from the west, take Exit 53 off of 1-90 to get to the Central section of the Pass. Take Exit 54 if you’re coming from the east.

One very important thing to note about the Snoqualmie Pass area: ALWAYS check the pass report before heading out on your trip – spring, summer, fall or winter.  I-90 at Snoqualmie Pass has the lowest elevation in the state and is therefore the most popular and accessible route for traveling over the Cascades. In the winter, there are the obvious delays due to snowy conditions, avalanches, accidents, etc.  In the summer, there is a never-ending string of road construction projects with which to contend and it’s not unheard of to get stuck behind a 2-hr delay due to rock blasting, lane reduction, etc. The WSDOT app and website are good about noting any closures, construction delays, etc. ALWAYS check the pass report before you go. It’s also worth noting that traffic coming back from eastern Washington on Sunday afternoons and evenings can often get quite congested. It’s a good idea to allow for a little extra time in your travels if you happen to be returning to the west side.

A little further down I-90, watch for signs leading to the tiny towns of Easton and Ronald and local campgrounds like Lake Easton State Park and Salmon la Sac. They’re relatively tiny blips on the Washington state map, but well worth the investigation. If you’re looking for lodging not involving tents or campers, check out The Last Resort in Ronald. They’ve also got a restaurant, gas station, a RV park and convenience store. For dining options other than The Last Resort or food-on-sticks at your campfire, also check out pub-style, The Old No. 3 in Ronald. (Named after one of the old coal mines in the area.)

Easton and Ronald are great jumping-off areas not only for camping, but other outdoor classics like fishing, snowmobiling, dirt bike riding, etc. In addition to ample camping opportunities in the area, there are also many great cabin rentals available through services like VRBO and Airbnb. For an area so easily accessible off one of the state’s main thoroughfares, it’s amazing how secluded and private it seems once you’re just a mile off an exit. It’s one of the things I love most about this area of the state; quick and easy access to wide-open skies and absolute, peaceful solitude.

Should you be looking for a more swanky Kittitas County adventure, take the Suncadia/Roslyn exit off of I-90, just a few miles past the Easton/Ronald area. (Exit 80) Paying further tribute to the mining history of the area, both Suncadia and Roslyn feature areas where time seems to have stood still. Suncadia is actually the newer kid on the block and leans more towards modern creature comforts, but it’s still just as easy to envision horse-drawn carts on the back roads as it is SUVs and snowmobiles. (In the winter months, it’s fairly common to see snowmobiles cruising along the main roads and gassing up at the town pumps.) Roslyn, however, largely maintains its turn-of-the-last-century charm and most of the buildings and homes have proudly been in use for over 100 years.

Tucked in amidst beautiful forest lands with sweeping meadows and gorgeous views, Suncadia is a planned community located a few miles before Roslyn, off of Bullfrog Road. It plays host to The Lodge at Suncadia and Swiftwater Cellars Winery, the Hoist House restaurant, additional restaurants and lodging, a spa, three golf courses, private residences and various year-round recreational opportunities. Whew! Suncadia is a great spot for a romantic weekend getaway, a golf outing or a family vacation – it has something for everyone. It’s also quite a nice locale for celebrating occasions such as Father’s Day. Which is exactly what we did this year!

On said Father’s Day visit, we checked out Swiftwater Cellars Winery and their featured restaurant, the Hoist House. The lodge itself is very inviting and well-designed and we enjoyed a very tasty lunch in their spacious dining room. Set next to the entrance to the Old No. 9 mining shaft, the lodge features dining, wine tasting, plenty of indoor and outdoor lounge areas, a lovely gift shop and a golf pro shop. It would be an easy place to relax for the day, sipping a glass of their No. 9 Red on the patio, taking in the stunning views… Sign me up!

Next stop down the road (State Route 903) takes us to not only one of my favorite places in the state, but a favorite spot all-around – the ever-idyllic, Roslyn, Washington.

I visit Roslyn often. I come for the charm, I come for the history and I come for the meat. (Mmmm… Carek’s Meats – we’ll get to that in a second.) It’s also a pretty convenient half-way point for meet-ups between members of the western Washington and eastern Washington Smith family. It’s a very reasonable 90-minute drive from the Seattle/Tacoma area and an equally doable drive from the Tri-Cities and Yakima areas. In addition to my own regular visits to the area, my family tries to meet up for mini-reunions at least a couple times a year. (And meat gathering…)

Roslyn is one of the oldest established communities in the state with much of its town center included on the National Register of Historic Places. Even considering the shut-down of the town’s mining mainstay, the area has stuck it out and is enjoying a much-deserved revival. Mining may not be in the future plans for Roslyn, but the television and film industries, outdoor enthusiasts, distillery and artisan markets have all come to know Roslyn for its lovely, bucolic settings. Most recently, the Amazon Studio series, The Man in the High Castle has shot scenes in the area.

Some of my favorite places to visit and things to do in the Roslyn area:

  • One of the spots that keeps me coming back to the Roslyn area is Carek’s Meats. Carek’s has been in business just over 100 years for a very good reason – Their meats are delicious. It’s a tiny shop, frozen in time, but they serve up all the greatest hits as well as making some of the most amazing beef jerky, Landjäger and meat sticks known to the world. Not only are various members of my family now super-fans, I’ve successfully gotten a few of my meat-loving friends addicted as well. I’m regularly given sizable sums of cash to procure ‘meat babies’ when visiting the Roslyn area. (Fact: Several pounds of Landjäger wrapped up in Carek’s butcher paper looks strikingly like a swaddled baby.) Try their old fashioned frankfurters. Try their smoked ribs. Try it ALL!
  • If you’re looking for a great cup of coffee, a delicious light meal or snack and a good book to cozy up to, stop by Basecamp Books & Bites in the center of town. Not only a great hub for food and drink, they support local outdoor pursuits and also regularly feature local events in their downstairs space.
  • In need of a tasty meal? Check out The Roslyn Café for a delicious breakfast, lunch or dinner. They’ve always got a great special on the menu and feature several great local beers. The Northern Exposure mural on the side of the building is also a great photo op. (Note: The mural was there before the show, but they added an apostrophe S to the sign during filming. The S is now gone.)
  • I’ve been monitoring the progress on this for a couple of years and I’m SO excited they’ve finally opened – The Heritage Distillery, set inside the historic Northwestern Improvement Company Store building is not to be missed. Joining the various shops and galleries already housed in the building, Heritage Distillery is an excellent addition to the local scene. Stop in for a very tasty craft cocktail and delicious samples of their vodkas, whiskies, gins, etc. The space is quite large and multi-tiered and can also host private events. It’s also family friendly!
  • One of the most iconic establishments in the town is the vibrant Brick Saloon. Laying claim to title, ‘Longest continually operating tavern in the state’, the Brick is a must-stop destination for any visit to Roslyn. Good pub food, a wonderful vintage, saloon-style bar complete with spittoon trough, live bands and family-friendly to boot, the Brick is never dull. I’ve had the pleasure of performing there on a few occasions and have always had a great time. (Minus maybe the time part of the ceiling dropped on my head while standing in the audience… But whatever – it’s an old building.) It also has some great history which is unfortunately not open to the public. (I was able to check it out one time I was performing there…) As you walk in the front door, notice a narrow stairway off to the left. At the bottom of the stairway is an entrance to the sub-basement of not only the Brick, but an area extending beneath most of the city block. There’s an original, dirt-floor jail cell and a fascinating hodgepodge of Roslyn history lying around. I hope someday they’ll consider opening it up as an underground tour of sorts.
  • If you’d like to dive into the history of area, be sure to pop into the Roslyn Museum. This tiny gem is filled to the brim with fascinating artifacts and treasures from the town beginnings and into more modern times. I’ve visited the museum several times over the years and I always seem to find something new packed into its corners. There is also a great display of mining equipment in the field next to the museum. Like time has stood still…
  • Equally fascinating, but slightly more somber, the Roslyn Cemetery is an interesting look into the very diverse group of immigrants who came to Roslyn to work the mines and helped shape the culture and story of Washington State. The cemetery is actually divided into sections based on nationality and represents over 20 countries including Croatia, Poland, Slovenia, Serbia, Germany, Italy, Scotland and many more.
  • Featuring a wonderful cross-section of goods from local farmers, artisans, vintners, etc. the Roslyn Farmer’s Market operates on Sundays from June through September. (10am – 2pm) The weather is often so beautiful this time of year and it’s a great day trip destination coming from eastern or western Washington.
  • For great camping, hiking, snowmobiling, fishing, etc. options, head up the road, past Roslyn to Lake Cle Elum. There are also local area cabins for rent – check out VRBO or Airbnb for availability.

A few more lovely places to check out in Roslyn:

  • Redbird Café & Bakery – Charming little café with outdoor seating. Also home to the lovely Spruce Moose Inn.
  • Roots BBQ – Excellent BBQ located in the courtyard behind the Roslyn Café.
  • The Roslyn Theatre – First run movies in this recently restored movie house. Two screens, real butter on the popcorn – Cash/CHECK only! (When was the last time you wrote a check for the movies?!)
  • Roslyn Arts Festival – August 3-5 – Check it out!
  • Gypsi & James – Reimagined Furniture and Home Décor – ‘Lots of very cute things I really need!
  • Roslyn Brewing Company – Cool taproom and (weather permitting) beer garden open Friday – Sunday

Heading a few miles further east on SR 903, you’ll arrive at the quaint little town of Cle Elum. It has advertised itself as having ‘easy through access’, but there really is a little more to the area than being a one-street town. (They have multiple streets!!) Although a little larger than Roslyn, it features a similar ‘lost in time’ feel and depending on the age of vehicles on the road, you could easily imagine yourself in the 30s or 40s. Many of the buildings on and around the main street are also included on the National Register of Historic Places.

Continuing on the quest for delicious meats, I made a stop at the iconic Owen’s Meats in the center of town. (Located on East First Street, the ‘easy through access’ street.)  Owen’s has been in business for over 125 years (one of the oldest operating businesses in the state) and has an impressive selection of meats, cheeses and a remarkable array of condiments.  All those delicious facts aside, I’d like to pay tribute to one of their most impressive attributes – They have a meat vending machine! True story. You say you’re craving a beefy T-bone at two in the morning? Maybe you need an addition for your charcuterie plate and it’s eight in the evening?  NEVER FEAR – The Owen’s Meats vending machine is on the job! Located directly outside their front entrance and in glorious operation 24/7, their proprietary vending machine features great cuts of meat as well as cheese, meat sticks and whatever else they choose to fit in. They’ve also graciously set up additional vending machines in key locations around the state. (The Filson flagship store in Seattle and the Mt. Si Shell Station in North Bend to name a couple.)

Rounding out the meaty hub that is the Roslyn/Cle Elum area, Glondo’s Sausage Co. and Italian Market is also not to be missed. In operation since the mid-80s, they’re still the young buck in town, but their expertise and quality of product is definitely in the same storied class as Carek’s and Owen’s. Their sausages are delicious and are featured at various local restaurants. I had a chance to sample their brats at the Iron Horse Brew Pub in Ellensburg and they were fabulous. I was sad when I came back through town that day as they’d closed for the day. Not to worry, I’ll be back!

If you’re looking for a good cup of coffee and an even tastier pastry or pie, stop by the town classic, Cle Elum Bakery. In operation since 1906, the Cle Elum Bakery has been waking up with many generations of townsfolk and shows no sign of slowing down.  The staff is very friendly, there’s a great selection of items in addition to fresh bakery goods and the atmosphere warmly invites you in for a relaxing break, whatever the time of day. I’m particularly in love with both their classic maple bars and custard-filled donuts.

In addition to the various cute shops, restaurants and conveniences lining the main route through town, here are a few more noteworthy spots:

  • New to the Cle Elum restaurant scene, Orchard is located on East First Street. It comes highly recommended to me by the Dru Bru staff and is next on my list of places to try in the area.
  • The Twin Pines Drive-In is a Cle Elum classic and a great place to grab a burger, shake or malt.
  • Happen to be really into the history of the telephone? The North Kittitas County Telephone museum is the place for you!

If you’re in need of lodging, check out these local options:

  • Stewart Lodge – Cozy local lodge. Great spot year around and close to local recreational activities.
  • Ironhorse Bed and Breakfast – Formerly known as the Milwaukee Road Bunkhouse, people have been checking in since 1909. You can stay in a railway caboose car!
  • Flying Horseshoe Ranch – Super cozy cabins, horseback riding, horse boarding and an events space – open year round!
  • Check out this great resource for local camping options

Heading further east is the blink-and-you’ll-miss-it community of Thorp. Many driving through the area via I-90 will know Thorp for its giant fruit stand located directly off the freeway. While that fruit stand is indeed one of my favorite spots in all of Washington State, I prefer to arrive in Thorp via the scenic back way, starting with State Route 10 out of Cle Elum. Once east of Cle Elum, take a right onto SR 10. Follow the road as it winds up and down through a beautiful river-lined valley filled with pastures and farms. About 9 miles up the road, near the wind turbine farm, take a right onto N. Thorp Highway and wind your way down towards Thorp.  And then a little further on to the… Thorp Fruit and Antique Mall!

But first, be sure to stop off and visit the fascinating and remarkably well-preserved and restored, Thorp Mill Museum and Thorp Mill Town Historical Preservation Society located directly off the N. Thorp Highway. The hours of operation are somewhat limited, but it is well worth the effort to stop. I’ve been curious about it for years and had been under the false impression it was some sort of lumber mill. I’m glad I was finally able to investigate as I was completely mistaken! It wasn’t a lumber mill, but was instead one of the first – and largest – flour mills in this part of the country. In its heyday, they were sending bags of flour as far away as China! They also hosted a 23-acre ice pond that provided refrigeration to the local railroad as well as ice for nearby towns. (Interesting note for Tri-Citians: The ice making facilities were later moved to nearby Pasco in 1913. Pasco represent! Go Bulldogs!) Be sure to take the guided tour inside the mill itself. The volunteer staff is incredibly friendly, very knowledgeable and happy to show you around the mill and all its amazing equipment.

As alluded to above, no visit to Thorp, around Thorp or driving by Thorp on I-90 is – or should ever be considered – complete without stopping in at the Thorp Fruit & Antique Mall. Enter a world where you can score a box of apples, an iced mocha, a hand-crafted jar of pickles, a good bottle of wine, some saltwater taffy, a 1920s china teapot and… Two vintage Goonies glasses, circa 1985. YES!! This place is an absolute dream and I always seem to find something tucked away in its packed aisles of cubbies and displays that I REALLY need. Like, really, seriously, I can’t-live-without-it NEED. It’s also a great place to hit up if you happen to have forgotten something for your nearby campsite. Or you’re in need of gas or ice from the gas station next door… Don’t forget to stop at the Thorp Fruit & Antique Mall. It has all the things you need. NEED!! (I swear I’m not a paid agent for the Thorp Fruit & Antique Mall. Unless it were to get me the remaining two glasses in my Goonies set… Just sayin’.)

Other areas to visit in the Thorp vicinity:

  • Iron Horse Trail (Used to be John Wayne Trail and is now officially known as the Palouse to Cascades State Park Trail) A 212-mile trail which traverses through the beautiful and diverse lands of the Palouse area in SE Washington through the central part of the state (Kittitas County!) and on towards North Bend. This trail also includes the train/trail tunnel mentioned earlier in the Snoqualmie Pass section. It is a bucket-list goal of mine to conquer this trail at some point in the next few years.
  • Icewater Creek Campground – This is a favorite camping area of the Smith brood. I’d recommend finding trails further up in the Cascades if you’re looking for a backpacking adventure, but this area is great for car, camper and tent camping – especially if your family has some dirt bike shenanigans to embark upon.

Next up on the tour is a town known for many things – It has one of the state’s main universities, hosts a nationally known rodeo, boasts a charming downtown area included on the National Register of Historic Places, features sweeping farmlands and pastures… So much excellence! But to any of us who’ve spent countless days and nights traveling back and forth across the state, it’s known quite poignantly for another very important feature: It’s pretty much dead-center in the state, especially when traveling on I-90. Are you in need of gas and SOON? Do you need another latte and bag of donuts to keep you going on that late night drive? Do you really have to pee – and RIGHT NOW?? What goldmine of a town is this, you ask? Ellensburg, Washington, of course! Yep – Ellensburg’s got everything you need. Ellensburg is the ONE STOP TO RULE THEM ALL. (Seriously – take Exit 109 off I-90. You’ll find what you need.)

Not, of course, to distract from the fact that Ellensburg is a great place to visit overall – even if you don’t have to use the restroom. It’s a welcoming town year ‘round and has a breadth of things to entertain the passer-through and tourist alike. Some of my favorite spots for dining and adventure:

  • For a completely charming meal, anytime of the day, check out The Yellow Church Café in the downtown area. Delicious scratch baked goods, hearty home cooking and a good wine and beer selection, all set inside a reappointed, old neighborhood church.
  • Just down the block from The Yellow Church Café, you’ll come across a very distinct looking house with surrounding “gardens.” I wasn’t looking for this place, but I’m very happy to have found it. I immediately pulled over and had to see what it was all about. For a completely unique and absolutely interesting shot of local art, definitely check out Dick and Jane’s Spot. The couple that owns the home, Dick and Jane, have been creating and collecting local art for the past 40 years. It’s an amazing display of creativity, whimsy and charm. Don’t miss it!
  • If you’re up for a tasty beer and a really tasty pub-style meal, head over to the Iron Horse Brewery Pub in the heart of downtown Ellensburg. It’s got a nice casual vibe, the staff is easy-going and helpful and the beer is delicious. I’m particularly enamored by their Life Behind Bars Kolsch and their very popular, Irish Death. Their website, along with their onsite marketing and PR is also pretty entertaining. Well played, Iron Horse Brewery. Well played.
  • Looking for a bit of relaxing wine-tasting in the Ellensburg area? Head into the Gard Vinters tasting room in the center of downtown. (They also have tasting rooms in the Woodinville and Walla Walla areas.)
  • Love museums as much as I do? Be sure to stop in at the Kittitas Co. Museum, located downtown in the classic Caldwell Building. Learn all about the history of the greater Kittitas County area! Free admission!
  • Another classic dining experience in downtown Ellensburg can be found at The Palace Café. In operation since 1892, this is one of the oldest operating restaurants in the state.

In addition to more lovely shops, lodging and dining opportunities in downtown Ellensburg, there are many other local options available to keep the visitor busy:

Wrapping up my tour of Kittitas County, let’s take a journey down one of my favorite roads in the state, Canyon Road. (State Route 821) I’d originally considered it as part of my Yakima County piece, but lo and behold, a good portion of this road is actually in Kittitas County. Who knew? (Well, probably the fine folks of Kittitas County…) In addition, one of the stops I’d been wanting to make for a while is conveniently located on the Kittitas County side…

Before Interstate-82 and the pass over Manastash Ridge were constructed, Canyon Road was one of the main routes between Ellensburg and Yakima. It winds along the beautiful Yakima River Canyon, carved out by the equally beautiful and meandering, Yakima River. Take Exit 109 off of I-90 and make a left onto Canyon Road to head into the canyon. During the winter months, this route is quite popular for trucks looking to avoid the long grade of the passes through Manastash Ridge.

If you happen to be traveling through the canyon during the summer months, keep an eye out on the river for flotillas of people leisurely floating downstream – Often with inner tubes containing a cooler somehow rigged to the center of their flotilla. After all, you don’t want your tasty beverages floating away from you while trying to enjoy the afternoon.

About 20 minute or so into the drive, you’ll come upon the Canyon River Ranch and Red’s Fly Shop. I’ve been wanting to stop here for quite a while and am so glad it finally worked out! It was lunchtime when we arrived and their covered patio area made for quite an enjoyable break on the sunny afternoon. From the patio, there’s a great view of the river and the rolling hills sheltering the valley. There are train tracks lining the opposite shore and a train rambled by as we were enjoying our meal. Something about the valley seems timeless and the addition of the train coming through added to that feeling of a bygone era. I’m interested in going back for a longer stay as the lodge looked inviting and the area has such a quiet, peaceful feeling to it. Be sure to walk down along the riverbank and take in the scenery as the river moseys by. And if you have any fishing enthusiasts in your life, be sure to step into Red’s – they have a pretty cool selection of goods and a lot of pertinent local knowledge.

In conjunction with the wonderful fishing, wildlife viewing and river float opportunities, there are several great camping sites as well as boat launches along the canyon. The Roza Dam is a particularly cool spot to spend the afternoon or set up camp. I have very fond memories of water-skiing escapades near the Roza Dam as a child. (I’m pretty sure I was an amazing water-skier. Almost positive…)

And with that triumphant mental image, I shall wrap up my adventures. Kittitas County gathers together so many of the most amazing features of Washington State into an easily explorable package. It spans the beautiful stretch of state from the Cascades down to the Columbia River as it casually winds through the Columbia Gorge at Vantage. With such iconic imagery and landscapes, how could you go wrong? (I must restate, however, to CHECK THE PASS REPORT before you venture out.)

I will always return to this part of the state. Its beauty is etched indelibly upon my soul, forever reminding me of why I love Washington State so much. With environmental, cultural, political and trailblazing diversity brimming across its borders, Kittitas County is an area not to be missed. There is something for everyone – Go eat up Kittitas County!

Until next time –

Cheers!

Kittitas County Playlist 

I was feeling fairly reflective during the bulk of this adventure. Always seems to happen in this part of the state when the sky spreads out and the road opens up in front of me… I brought the groove back towards the end, however.  😉 

Check it out on Spotify

  • Hejira – Joni Mitchell (The lyrics and Jaco’s bass playing – Dreamy…)
  • Cactus Tree – Joni Mitchell (This one’s long been on my adventure playlists…)
  • Lucky One – Alison Krauss & Union Station
  • Daylight – Alison Krauss & Union Station
  • Tennessee Whiskey – Chris Stapleton
  • A Long Way to Get – Bob Schneider (I love Bob. I love this song.)
  • 40 Dogs (Like Romeo and Juliet) – Bob Schneider (I love Bob. I love this song.)
  • Between the Bars – Madeline Peyroux
  • Dis, Quand Reviendras-Tu? – Martha Wainwright
  • Us – Regina Spektor
  • Alaska – Maggie Rogers
  • Heartbeats– José González
  • Come Away with Me – Norah Jones
  • Gymnopedie – Erik Satie (performed by Emile Pandolfi) (Always reminds me of my friend, Emily…)
  • American Beauty – Thomas Newman (American Beauty Film Score)
  • Song for Bob – Nick Cave & Warren Ellis (From the soundtrack The Assassination of Jesse James by the Coward Robert Ford)
  • Bad Bad News – Leon Bridges
  • If It Feels Good (Then It Must Be) – Leon Bridges
  • Gwan – The Suffers

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I Ate the State – Mason County

Greetings!

In this latest installment of I Ate the State, I visit the lovely and scenic, Mason County. Situated in the northwestern part of the state, Mason County is a relatively accessible area to most of Western Washington. Olympic National Park /Olympic National Forest withstanding, there are several routes in and out of the area, all involving very breathtaking countryside. (Olympic National Park/Forest accounts for a large part of the northwestern corner of the county and has limited accessibility and thoroughfares.) Because Mason County contains a sizable portion of the Olympics, the county itself seems expansive, but the population is only around 63k. The Hood Canal and Lake Cushman areas can get crowded in the summer months, but my springtime travels presented me with miles and miles of wide open, uncrowded roads. Couple that with an unexpected sunny day and it was truly a beautiful outing.

For this particular journey, I chose to hop the Bremerton ferry from the Alaskan Way Pier in downtown Seattle. It was a little foggy that morning, but things were just starting to clear as I boarded. Once underway, I enjoyed my coffee and the glassy calm of the Puget Sound as the ferry glided through the water. The calm perfection of the morning added an extra bit of magic as I stared out from the deck, daydreaming about owning one of the swanky mansions dotting the shores. For the money and time, taking the ferry is always a great way to start any adventure and the 60-minute crossing to the Bremerton terminal allows for the additional fueling of caffeine and formulating of travel plans. A fine way to spend an hour, in my opinion.

SeattleEye
Pulling out on the ferry from the Alaskan Way Pier. The start of a beautiful morning!

After disembarking from the ferry, I headed towards Belfair, gateway to the Hood Canal area. I’d initially thought of heading towards the county seat of Shelton and nearby costal inlets, but instead decided to go north and follow the coastline of Hood Canal, back around to the Kingston area. I’d heard great things about the route as well as the Lake Cushman and Staircase areas of Olympic National Park, so towards Belfair I did go.

While driving down Highway 3 outside of Bremerton, I was very excited to spot a drive-in movie theatre just off the road. It’s been ages since I’ve enjoyed a movie in the car – while wearing pajamas and eating popcorn. (That’s some old-skool glory, right there!) As it looks like they show first-run movies, I think I might need to make a pilgrimage back to the area and revisit those by-gone days of the mobile cinema experience. (Rodeo Drive-in, between Bremerton and Belfair)

Once past Belfair – a good place to fuel up, by the way – I turned off towards SR 106 and Union. Hood Canal begins at the tip of 106 and the road hugs the shore as you wind along the 2-lane highway. There are beautiful homes and cottages gracing the shoreline all along the drive and great views of the water to behold. This road was great from the driver’s seat of my trusty Sportage, but I think it’d be even better in a convertible or on a motorcycle.  I’m sure the road gets a little slow-going during the busy summer months, but as there’s such an abundance of great scenery, it can’t be all that bad.

Nearing Union, I came upon the Alderbrook Resort and Spa. Set along the shores of Hood Canal, this is definitely a destination-location sort of affair. Beautifully manicured grounds, spacious lodging, dining and recreational areas as well as a nice spa, adjoining golf course and good moorage on their docks. I could have easily spent the entire day there, wandering around the grounds, enjoying brunch and a mimosa in the restaurant and maybe renting a kayak (or a PARTY BARGE PONTOON BOAT) and tooling around the canal. (Or maybe just enjoying another mimosa on the deck… or on the PARTY BARGE PONTOON BOAT) I fully intend to return to the Alderbrook for a nice weekend getaway in the near future.  (With my friends, so we can rent the PARTY BARGE PONTOON BOAT.)

Just past the Alderbrook Resort, heading west on 106, keep your eye out on the left for the Dalby Waterwheel. It’s definitely worth pulling over to check out and you can do so just past the Alderbrook Resort. It’s a still-functioning water wheel brought over from Seattle in 1924 and creates quite a mesmerizing, idyllic scene. I could spent hours just hanging out beside the little cabin, listening to and watching the water fall over the wheel. It was a scene right out of Little House on the Prairie, ala the Northwest. Quite charming. (Although, maybe not as peaceful during the busy summer months as it is right off the road.)

Just around the bend from the Dalby Waterwheel, I happened upon the very cute, Cameo Boutique and Wine Shop. Stopping in for a quick browse, I found a few tasty treats to take home with me and some lovely soap. There is also a nice selection of gifts and resort wear to tide you over during your local stay, along with a great selection of wine. Before I left the parking lot, I walked around the side of the shop and back towards the small cove directly behind. There’s a camping area and a couple of cottages, but also an incredibly interesting, old paddlewheel boat beached on the shore.  I’d love to know more of the story behind the boat and learn what brought it to its lonely beach home.  On my next visit, I’ll have to check in with the locals and see if anyone has the scoop.

Perhaps they might know something across the way at the Robin Hood Village Resort. The restaurant and front cottages were built in 1934 by Hollywood set designer, Don Beckman, who also designed the set for the classic, Errol Flynn Robin Hood epic.  Over the years, cottages have been added and it is now a cheerful, village-style resort set back amongst the trees. I took a lovely walk by the creek which flows along the backside of the restaurant and it looked like they also host weddings and events in the area. It definitely seems like a fun and whimsical place for an outdoor summer soiree.

By this point in the morning, I was becoming pretty peckish. I thought about heading back to the Alderbrook Resort, but decided to keep heading further into Union, on what then becomes US Route 101. A few miles down the road, the Union City Market (at the Hood Canal Marina) popped up on my right and I pulled over to take a look.  I’m very glad I did as it was chock full of wonderful local foods, gifts and specialty items. They also have a great coffee bar and a freezer full of some very tasty, handmade popsicles. Granted, popsicles aren’t really the first thing I think of upon waking up, but the carrot, ginger and turmeric one I purchased seemed the perfect way to start the day. It was particularly enjoyable while sitting at a picnic table on the shore, watching a boat crew load oysters out of the canal directly to the back of the store. Fresh!

While chatting with the very amiable staff at the Union City Market, I learned of some tasty breakfast selections across the way at the Union Country Store. I’m glad I took their advice as the Crab Eggs Benedict I ordered was absolutely delicious. Set in a small grocery store, the diner-style setup offers home-style meals, great coffee and local ice cream. It’s a quirky, welcoming spot and I’m very happy I stopped in to fuel my adventures.

After finishing all of my breakfast and feeling ridiculously (and unrepentantly) full, I took off down the road for the Hoodsport area. I’d heard about the Hardware Distillery and wanted to check it out. Along the way, I also noticed the Hoodsport Winery and decided to give it a whirl. Admittedly, I almost didn’t stop as it looked a little questionable with the bars on the windows, but I’d heard good things about the wine, so I decided to go in. It was a good decision as the wine was lovely and I had a great conversation with the woman running the shop and tastings. After walking out with a couple of nice bottles, I continued my path into Hoodsport and the Hardware Distillery.

Set within a cute row of shops in the middle of Hoodsport (still on US 101), the Hardware Distillery was well worth the stop. Not only was the shop cozy and welcoming, the owner was completely knowledgeable and I had quite a great time discussing recipes and drink ideas with him. I also walked away with a very entertaining gift for my dad and a much-coveted dill aquavit. (I’d been looking for one! Now I just need a turmeric vodka and I’m on my way to hopefully recreating the delicious Hanoi Rocks from Capitol Hill’s, dreamy Foreign National.)

ForeignNat
The most delicious drink ever made, The Hanoi Rocks from Foreign National on Seattle’s Capitol Hill. Granted, not from Mason County, but I’m going to use my newly acquired Dill Aquavit to give it a whirl.

I would’ve liked to have sampled more of the offerings at Hardware Distillery, but as I was driving, I needed to be responsible and move on to the next destination. (A drawback about doing solo adventures and stopping in for any type of tastings…) Additionally, as my next stop was Lake Cushman and the Staircase area of Olympic National Park, I needed my bearings and wits about me. And score one for responsibility as I did indeed end up needing my navigational skills further up the road…

From Hoodsport, I turned onto SR 119 and followed the signs towards Lake Cushman. I hadn’t visited the Park from this direction before, so I was excited to explore the scene. Suffice it to say, I was in no way disappointed with the area. Lake Cushman is a beautiful lake with deep blue water and expansive shorelines. Most of the campgrounds and lodging areas were still closed for the season on this visit, but I’ll definitely be back to explore in the summer months. That said, even just pulling over and taking in the vistas from the viewpoints along the way was worth the drive. Such stunning scenery we have in Washington State…

Cushman1
View from one of the roadside stops along Lake Cushman

A little further up, I pulled over at Big Creek Campground to take a look around. It was also still closed for the season, but you could park in the lot just off the road and head in to access the local hiking trails. Since it was a beautiful spring day and I really wanted to stretch my legs and check out the scenery, I happily donned my backpack and head off into the woods. Score another one for always taking the 10 Essentials as I did actually end up needing some extra resources that afternoon…

After walking around the campsite area a little, I noticed a trailhead and decided to investigate. It was a beautiful trail, flanked by moss-draped trees and mysterious thickets with an ambling creek off to the side. (Fun fact: It’s pronounced “crEEk”, not “crick” – Dad and Skoczen, I’m lookin’ at you…) About a quarter-mile in, I noticed a detour sign and thought I’d taken the correct fork, but apparently, I did not. It wasn’t until I’d gone another half-mile or so that I realized I’d taken a wrong turn (a couple by that point, in fact) and was completely turned around. AND I had no cell service, so the GPS on my phone was no longer an option – and no one was around in the closed-for-the-season campsite. Dun-dun-dunnnnnn – Time to take out the ol’ compass and map.

Granted, even if I didn’t have a compass and map, I could’ve likely just followed along the creek (not crick) and it would’ve eventually led to or close to a road. Luckily, however, I didn’t have to investigate that option and was able to get back on track. It did serve as a reminder on how quickly things can escalate in the woods and if you’re not prepared, how quickly things can go horribly wrong. It was also a reminder to always tell someone where you’re going when solo traveling – especially if you plan on traipsing off into closed areas with no cell reception…

As the Staircase area was closed for the season and there were road issues up into the area – and I’d wasted at least a good half hour being lost in the woods – I decided to head back down towards Hoodsport and off to my next destination: The Hama Hama Oyster Saloon.  Mmmmm…

Hama Hama, located in the Lilliwaup area, is a family-run shellfish farm, restaurant and store and has been serving the area for nearly 100 years. This experience is greatly showcased in the quality and presentation of the shellfish as well as through a devoted customer base, both in and out of Washington State. (They ship nationally to chefs and shellfish-craving consumers.)  It is truly one of the most enjoyable culinary experiences I’ve had in the Northwest and I don’t think I’d ever get tired of hanging out and taking in the scene. Even if you’re not a fan of oysters or clams, there’s something to enjoy. (Try the grilled cheese!) You won’t regret your visit to Hama Hama. (Also, please pick up a bag of oysters and a tub of the Chipotle Bourbon Butter for me. Thanks!)

After stuffing myself with oysters and delicious bread, it was time to consider meandering back towards Seattle. (After a quick stop into the Hama Hama store to pick up some smoked oysters and some of that delicious Chipotle Bourbon Butter… Sigh…) Since I’d already enjoyed the Bremerton ferry route, I decided to make a grand loop of things and return home via the Kingston Ferry. There was a bit of traffic in the ferry queue once I arrived near the terminal and I just missed the ferry crossing I wanted, but it wasn’t too bad a wait. I took a nice walk around the marina area and enjoyed some of my earlier-procured treats – not too shabby an end to my Mason County adventure…

I have to say, while I’ve thoroughly enjoyed all of the counties I’ve visited so far, Mason County has definitely gone to the top of the list. Just this short day trip was full of varied and excellent scenery, food, conversations, etc. I can’t wait to spend a little more time in the area and explore things more deeply. I’m sure I won’t be disappointed. And maybe rent one of those PARTY BARGE PONTOON BOATS!!

Cheers – and happy travels!

Kingston
Checking out the marina while waiting for the Kingston ferry. Sigh…

 

Mason County Playlist – Check it out on Spotify

I was on a bit of a musical binge that weekend, so my playlist pretty much reflects only that… MUSICALS!

  • My Shot – Hamilton (Original Broadway Cast Recording)
  • You’ll Be Back – Hamilton (Original Broadway Cast Recording)
  • Wait For It – Hamilton (Original Broadway Cast Recording)
  • Yorktown (The World Turned Upside Down) – Hamilton (Original Broadway Cast Recording)
  • What Comes Next – Hamilton (Original Broadway Cast Recording)
  • Fame – Fame (The Original Soundtrack from the Motion Picture)
  • Out Here On My Own – Fame (The Original Soundtrack from the Motion Picture)
  • Never Alone – Fame (The Original Soundtrack from the Motion Picture)
  • Dentist! – Little Shop of Horrors (Original Motion Picture Soundtrack)
  • Feed Me (Git It) – Little Shop of Horrors (Original Motion Picture Soundtrack)
  • Suddenly Seymour – Little Shop of Horrors (Original Motion Picture Soundtrack)
  • Dammit Janet – The Rocky Horror Picture Show (Original Soundtrack)
  • Time Warp – The Rocky Horror Picture Show (Original Soundtrack)
  • Cabaret – Cabaret (Original Soundtrack)
  • I Dreamed A Dream – Les Miserables (Original London Cast Recording)
  • One Day More – Les Miserables (Original London Cast Recording)
  • Pure Imagination – Charlie and the Chocolate Factory (Original Soundtrack Recording – 1971)
  • Consider Yourself – Oliver! (Original Broadway Cast Recording)
  • God, That’s Good! – Sweeny Todd – The Demon Barber of Fleet Street (Original Broadway Cast)
  • Think of Me – The Phantom of the Opera (Original London Cast)
  • The Music of the Night – The Phantom of the Opera (Original London Cast)
  • Nessum Dorma – Turandot, ACT III (*Luciano Pavarotti, The Three Tenors in Concert – Rome 1990) *This particular recording of this piece slays me every And it’s embarrassing to be crying alone in the Sportage while in the ferry line, but whatever…

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I Ate the State – Jefferson County

Greetings!

In my recent travels for I Ate the State, I took a visit to Jefferson County in NW Washington. Home to beautiful Pacific Ocean coastlines, towering mountain peaks and a UNESCO designated rain-forest, Jefferson County is not only one of the most stunning areas in the state, it is a defining jewel in the North American crown. (I’ll also add it is one of my favorite places in the world…) It is incredibly diverse in its offerings and well worth the exploration.

As I am currently based in North Seattle, I took the Edmonds/Kingston ferry and made my way up Highway 104, across the Hood Canal Bridge. (For more info on local ferry travel, check out my previous entry for Kitsap County.) I was ultimately headed towards the largest town in Jefferson County, Port Townsend, but planned on taking several detours along the way. Jefferson County boasts many tucked-away inlets, tiny hamlets and areas of rolling farmland and I wanted to explore as much as possible. That said, not too long after crossing the bridge, I headed up Highway 19 towards Port Ludlow and Marrowstone Island.

I’d never actually visited this area of the state before and I’m glad I finally did! Not only was it a beautiful, crisp sunny day, but it had recently snowed and there was still a bit on the ground – including the shorelines. Absolutely breathtaking! It is also a much lesser-traveled part of the state, so I felt very much at my leisure to casually peruse the surroundings as I drove through. My first detour from said perusal was to check out the Port Ludlow Resort and Marina area.  (Take a right off of Highway 19 onto Oak Bay Road.  OR – take the first right after crossing the Hood Canal Bridge onto Paradise Bay Road.)

Port Ludlow
Port Ludlow Resort
Port Ludlow Marina
Lovely Port Ludlow Marina

While driving down towards the resort area, I noticed many homes tucked away by the water and mused at how lovely it would be to have a home near the water. Sigh… Especially in such a nice little inlet like Port Ludlow. The 37-room inn/resort is perched on a small spit of land next to the marina and features a nice restaurant (The Fireside), spa services and adjoining golf course. It would be the perfect base for exploring the surrounding areas as well as a great place to spend a relaxing weekend.

A little further up the very scenic Oak Bay Road, I took a right onto Highway 19 to head further north towards Marrowstone Island and Fort Flagler State Park. Along the way, I noted a sign for wine tasting at the Marrowstone Vineyards and took a quick turn in that direction. Just a short way up a very quaint road, I came upon the vineyard proper. Adding to the beauty of the sunny winter settings, the main building sits aside a lovely vineyard, sprawling its way down towards the water. There’s a charming deck and outdoor fire pit as you head towards the winery entrance which I’m told plays host to many events in the summer, both public and private. (Weddings, concerts, etc.) Inside, you can view areas of the wine-making process as well as enjoy a tasting in their cozy tasting room. The staff is incredibly friendly and well-versed in their wines and gave me a very detailed and tasty walk through a few of their offerings. Additionally, unbeknownst to me, I happened to be there on the Olympic Peninsula Red Wine, Cider and Chocolate tour and was also treated to various chocolate pairings. Score! I would’ve loved to have walked away with a case that day, but was conservative and took home a bottle of their delicious Island Blend. No matter, I’ll be returning soon to further exploit their catalog.

Before I continued on my journey, I took a trip upstairs to visit their gallery. It’s a beautiful, wood-planked loft featuring local artists and craftspeople and had the most peaceful feeling about it. I would absolutely love to have an event in that room, drinking wine and chatting with guests as we look out over the water.  Something about that gallery was just magical. I will definitely be back soon and hope to check out some of their summer events.

Back on Highway 19, I continued further up the island towards Fort Flagler State Park. It was a very pretty trek and I even stopped along the way to allow a few deer to saunter across the road. (On a general note, there are a lot of deer in Jefferson County. Be aware as you’re driving along the winding roads as they often meander about.) The sun was beautiful as it streamed onto the tree-lined road and quite awe-inspiring as the road opened up onto the Fort Flagler grounds and the coastal tip of the county.

Similar to nearby Forts Worden and Casey, Flagler was constructed in the early 1900s to help protect the coastlines and was in use until the 1950s. Today it is a state park and the old barracks, officer’s quarters and surrounding buildings are open to the public. You can rent them as vacation homes or for event/retreat sites or pitch a tent or trailer in the campgrounds. There are also many beautiful trails and coastline areas to explore, complete with remaining defense bunkers and battlements. I love walking around the old bunkers and exploring inside, but it’s important to bring a good flashlight or headlamp. Some of them are quite dark inside and there are many narrow, twisting corridors. Spooky!

In a continuing vein, the next stop on my journey was Fort Worden, just past nearby Port Townsend. The Fort Worden area is quite large and is still largely in use today. (Albeit not militarily – the area was decommissioned in the 60s and opened in the 70s as a state park with lodging, museums and a large arts community.) Like Flagler, you can rent vacation homes, host events and participate in the ongoing events offered by local Worden residents such as the Centrum Foundation and Copper Canyon Press. Several years ago, I was lucky enough to win a scholarship to participate in the week-long Centrum Jazz Workshop and have been a huge fan of the area ever since. Bring a camper or tent and set up in the beach campground to explore the expansive coastline and 100 year old bunkers. (Bring flashlights!) Even better, be sure to head for the large trail network found atop the bluffs overlooking the beach. It’s completely amazing – and chilling – to be hiking through old growth forest and suddenly come upon a perfectly disguised defense bunker overlooking the water.

Since I fully intended on hiking through some of the bunkers and had again forgotten to purchase a new WA State Parks Discover Pass, I headed to the Coast Artillery Museum to buy a new one.  (Very convenient!) And since I love museums and hadn’t visited this one yet, I did a quick tour through the military history of the area. The museum name is slightly misleading as it features much more than artillery and shares quite a bit about life in the fort throughout its military history. Definitely worth checking out and well worth the $4 admission fee.

After I became versed in the history of the fort, it was time to head down to the beach and check out the bunkers and do a little beach hiking. It was starting to get cloudy and rain seemed imminent, so mucking around in the bunkers seemed like a good idea. As many times as I’ve visited Fort Worden and hiked around the area, I still seem to find a new perspective and discover new (to me) areas tucked away along the shore. This day was no exception and I stumbled upon a few bunker areas I hadn’t previously explored. And with the greyness rolling in, the relatively deserted beach and the still in the air, it reminded me of the look of the movie, The Road.  (Part of which was filmed in WA state near Mount St. Helens.) Eeesh. 

In need of a feel-good pick-me-up, I abandoned the bunker scene and headed back to the main grounds in search of Fort Worden restaurant, Taps at the Guardhouse. However, since this is a former military installation, I shouldn’t have been surprised to go from bunker to brig. Set inside the former guardhouse and jail, the restaurant hosts a nice bar and dining area where you can actually eat in jail! Granted, you can enjoy a nice ploughman’s plate and a glass of Domaine Vetriccie IGP Ile de Beauté White 2015 while you do it, but it certainly makes for an entertainingly foreboding dining experience. Since I successfully made bail/paid my tab, I’m looking forward to further exploring their food and drink offerings on my next visit.

For more information on artistic partnerships Fort Worden hosts, visit HERE. It truly is an amazing area and a great asset to the artistic communities of the Pacific NW.

Since Fort Worden is located just past Port Townsend, I headed back towards town to investigate the area. Port Townsend, founded in 1851, is the only incorporated city in Jefferson County as well as being its county seat. It is filled with a beautiful array of Victorian architecture and style and is a must visit for any fan of the era. (It is one of only three Victorian Seaports on the National Register of Historic Places.) The Arts community thrives in the area, there is a bevy of shops, antiquing opportunities, restaurants, galleries, wine, cider and beer tasting – the list goes on. It also has a ferry terminal which connects to Whidbey Island, making travel around the Sound more convenient. I always find something lovely in Port Townsend and this visit was no exception.  Here are a few of my top picks for the downtown area:

  • Waterfront Pizza
    • When I told my friend, Joe what town I was going to visit, he INSISTED I check out Waterfront Pizza. He also said, and I quote, “God rolls the dough and makes the sauce…” Well, with such heavenly reviews, I had no choice but to check it out. Turns out Joe was right! Their pizza is AMAZING! And as anyone who knows me will confirm, I’m not actually a big pizza fan. For the record, this place pretty much turned me around and put me back on the pizza-loving track. The sauce and dough were indeed god-like, the toppings tasty and plentiful and the place was packed the entire time I was there – in the middle of the day. NOTE: There is a very small walk-in section of the restaurant with an entrance off the street. Go there if you want slices or something to go. Head up the staircase to the right of that entrance if you want to sit down and order a whole pie and drink a glass of wine. I almost missed the experience as I didn’t initially notice the staircase to the upstairs section – and the street-entrance portion of the restaurant was continually standing room only.
  • Bubble n Squeak
    • This is one of new favorite stores! Quirky and eclectic selections of British antiques as well as current goods and sundries. There were sooooo many things I would’ve loved to have taken home, but I settled for some toffees and Turkish Delight. I’ll be back – possibly to purchase the amazing antique whisky dispenser they had. ($500! Eeek!) (But I want it…)
  • Mad Hatter & Co
    • Great hat store with ‘lots of options. Scarves, too! They even had some terribly (in a good way) British top hats and tweed golf caps which made me want to sprint to the nearest polo match or putting green. (And I play neither sport. Details.)
  • About Time
    • Super cool clothing and shoe store that happens to carry a brand of Israeli-made Jafa brand boots I absolutely covet. I will be back.
  • Wandering Angus
    • Quaint shop covering all things Irish, English and Scottish. Perfect shop to visit around St. Patrick’s Day.
  • What’s Cookin’
    • Local kitchen supply store, jam-packed with wonderful books, gadgets, cookware, tea and coffee making supplies, knives, bar supplies, etc. I only allowed myself a brief visit as I would’ve walked out with a giant box of goods otherwise. As it was, I made it out with only a respectably sized shopping bag. Respectable, I say!
  • Rose Theatre
    • An absolute gem of a classic movie house showing current-run films on their main screen with the addition of current-run and classic films in their upstairs 21+ Starlight Room. (Serving food and cocktails from the Silverwater Café)
  • Port Townsend Antique Mall
    • Antiques galore! They were just closing as I drove up for this visit, but I’ll hit them up next time. I could browse through that place for hours!
  • Vintage Hardware & Lighting
    • Ditto with this place! A very cool mix of items and if you happen to be looking for old lighting fixtures…
  • Port Townsend Vineyards
    • Lovely vineyard and winery just outside of Port Townsend. I much enjoy their Gewürztraminer and Cabernet Sauvignon.
    • Downtown Tasting Room
      • Just next door to the Rose Theatre. Small plates and a cozy setting make for a nice wine tasting outing.
    • Port Townsend Brewing Co
      • They have a great selection of ales and it’s a cool place to hang out and have a beer. They do close somewhat early, but they’re open ‘till 9pm on Fridays. (7pm all other days) I’m particularly happy they make an ale called Red Barchetta Red Ale. It’s made with a “power trio of hops!”  Insert major air-drum solo <HERE>
    • And scores of other great shops, bookstores, restaurants, etc.!

 Looking for a place to stay in Port Townsend?

Check out one of Port Townsend’s lovely Victorian era hotels located in the old town area:

And for lodging closer to the beach:

FW_Beach
Camp near the beaches at Fort Worden
FW_Deer
Commune with local wildlife while staying at Fort Worden

Festivals and Events to Check Out in Port Townsend: 

Throughout the year, Port Townsend features many cool festivals, concerts and art shows.  A few worthy of note:

  • Port Townsend Jazz Festival (July)
    • The whole town as well as Fort Worden takes a week to celebrate America’s original art form, Jazz. Local, national and international artists participate – it’s a great time to visit the area!
  • Strange Brewfest (January)
    • Enjoy beer? Enjoy weird beers and exotic beer concoctions? This is the event for you! Sample eclectic brews from around the NW while enjoying unique entertainment – You can’t go wrong! And while it’s a little chilly, it’s fun to get a bunch of people together to camp over at Fort Worden. All you need is a solid tent, a good coat and a toasty campfire. And more beer.
  • Steampunk Hootenanny (June)
    • I haven’t actually been to this one, but I’m intrigued! I definitely plan on checking this one out as they advertise the following very titillating features:
      • A “Den of Iniquity!” (Who doesn’t love some good ol’ fashion iniquity??)
      • An absinthe bar! (Yes, please.)

Next stop on my Jefferson County tour brought me to the Chimacum area. It’s not far from Port Townsend and features some of the most idyllic landscapes and farmland in the state. Over the course of my two days around the area, I was lucky enough to see it both blanketed in snow and alive with green hills and sunshine. There are so many stops to make throughout the area and it would be very easy to spend a quiet weekend just exploring this small area of the county.

In the summer, there are numerous farm stands to visit and a few great farmers markets. The Chimacum Corner Farmstand is a particularly cool one. As it operates officially between June and October, it wasn’t open, but it’s a great place to stop by during the summer and early harvest months. There is also a great fall Chimacum farm tour and even a cider tour you can take in and around the area.

On the topic of cider, I took a visit to one of the coolest places ever, Finnriver Farm & Cidery. This is one of my very favorite stops in the area! The cider is delicious, the staff is knowledgeable and friendly, they have great food onsite (local bratwurst, wood-fired pizza and crepes!), regular live music and great tasting events. It’s an impressive, fully-working farm, but has a great cozy, intimate feel throughout their tasting room, gift shop and public grounds. I’m also now a member of their cider club, so I’ll be going back a few times a year to pick up featured ciders and goods. What a burden!

I also had the pleasure of picking up a bag of peanut brittle from Sugar Hill Old Fashion Confections while browsing the Finnriver gift shop. This is a local favorite which has very recently opened a shop in the Chimacum area. Great family-run candy company using great local ingredients. (Including recently visited CB Nuts!) I will admit to being a bit of a peanut brittle snob as my grandmother made an AMAZING version. That said – and please don’t be mad at me, Grandma – the Sugar Hill recipe is simply outstanding and some of the best I’ve ever had.

Rounding out my Jefferson County adventure is one of the most stunning areas in the country, the Olympic National Park and the drive along the Pacific Ocean on Highway 101. For this visit, I came up Highway 104 and connected to Highway 101 around the Discovery Bay area. As there is no direct route through the park to get to the ocean, you’ll need to drive around the park boundaries and up through neighboring Clallam County before dropping back into Jefferson. (Or alternately, up through Olympia, and Aberdeen and up the coast from the South.) Olympic National Park and Olympic National Forest are enormous areas and comprise not only a huge chunk of Jefferson County, but reach into surrounding counties, Grays Harbor and Mason as well.

One of my favorite areas to visit in the park is the Hoh Rainforest and the Hall of Mosses trail. To say it’s like walking into a fantasy-land is a complete understatement. It’s right out of a Tolkien adventure with lush moss dripping off towering trees, hidden ponds and streams, moss covered rocks and stumps and an easily managed rambling trail. The hiking and backpacking opportunities are near limitless in the park, but if you’re down a quick shot of majesty, this is a great pick. And don’t forget to pack your rain gear – it is one of the most rain-drenched areas in the United States. There are certainly beautiful, sunny days to be enjoyed during the summer, but the area receives between 100-170 inches of rain a year and is always somewhat damp. Be prepared for weather conditions to change on a dime and always pack extra supplies when hiking in any wilderness area. (The 10 Essentials)

Back out on Highway 101, heading south, I made a stop at the very beautiful Ruby Beach. A fairly easy hike down from the (sometimes crowded) parking area leads to long stretches of sandy beach, amazing driftwood displays and gorgeous haystack rock formations along the shoreline.  Bring a picnic, sit on the beach and just take some time to relax and watch the ocean – and some of the most exquisite sunsets you’ll ever see.

Just a little further south on Highway 101, you’ll come to another must-see stop in the area, Kalaloch Lodge and beach area. There are a few nice campgrounds in the area as well as a beautiful, classic lodge and surrounding cabins, but definitely plan in advance as everything books up quickly – especially in the summer months.  That said, I love to come to the area in the winter months when tourism is a little quieter. Granted, there are quite a few rainy, gusty days, but the storm-watching opportunities are amazing and there’s nothing like trying to walk against the winds down on Kalaloch beach. Good luck! It’s also especially cozy if you’re lucky enough to score one of the cabins perched on the bluff overlooking the beach. Put a few logs in the fireplace, fix yourself a hot toddy and stare out into the blustery seas. Another nice option is to head over from your campsite or cabin to the main lodge and grab a nice meal in the The Creekside dining room.  Adjacent to the lodge is the Kalaloch Mercantile, which is a great place to grab extra supplies, a good cup of coffee or some soft-serve ice cream.

After visiting Kalaloch, it was time to return home. Rather than going back towards the Kingston ferry, I headed south down Highway 101, up through Aberdeen, into Olympia and onto I-5 North. A lovely roundtrip tour and a few hours later, I arrived back in Seattle. My adventure was certainly action-packed, but I still only got to see a portion of what I’d planned. I fully plan on returning to Jefferson County again and again and I’m quite positive there will always be something new to check out and a gorgeous vista to behold.

I hope you enjoyed the ride and are inspired to check out all Jefferson County has to offer. It truly is one of my favorite parts of the state.

Until next time!

My Jefferson County Playlist – Check it out on Spotify

I was going for an Americana sort of feel to accompany the rolling farmland and quiet, winding roads.

  • Last of My Kind Jason Isbell & the 400 Unit (Formerly of The Drive-by Truckers – Jason Isbell is one of my favorites)
  • If We Were Vampires Jason Isbell & the 400 Unit
  • Something to Love Jason Isbell & the 400 Unit
  • FlagshipJason Isbell (solo)
  • Look At Miss OhioGillian Welch (Also happened to be playing in the Finnriver tasting room!)
  • Wayside/Back in Time Gillian Welch
  • One Little Song Gillian Welch
  • Oh My Sweet Carolina – Ryan Adams (w/Emmylou Harris)
  • To Be Without You – Ryan Adams
  • All Your Favorite Bands – Dawes
  • To Be Completely Honest – Dawes
  • Beyond This Moment – Patrick O’Hearn (Lovely w/the snowy shorelines and pastures)
  • Northwest Passage – Patrick O’Hearn
  • My Shot – Hamilton: Original Broadway Cast Recording (I’d recently gotten to see Hamilton and was binging on the soundtrack. Come on – Thomas Jefferson was a big part of it. Seemed appropriate enough.)

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Check out more I Ate the State adventures: