I Ate the State: Special Edition – Iceland 2024 (and 2021!)

I’ve always been intrigued by Iceland and my interest was further fueled after an unexpected layover en route to the UK a few years ago. Sweeping snowfields, volcanoes, waterfalls, the Northern Lights, dramatic weather, trolls, fairy tales – all the things! Fast forward to today and I’ve now officially visited Iceland two times. I plan on visiting many more times, but in the meantime, I’d like to share my recent adventures in this beautiful land of fire and ice. And hotdogs.

Road to Reynisfjara
Road to the black sand beach of Reynisfjara

My Icelandic trips to this date have all been during the winter. Anywhere between the winter holidays and mid-February, my trips have been filled with snow, small windows of daylight, and some very powerful winds. All of my adventures have arrived on the wings of Icelandair and have involved some pretty amazing deals. (Note: I’m not receiving any promotional credit from Icelandair, but I will say they regularly have some pretty smokin’ hot deals.)

Speaking of Icelandair and the smokin’ hot, I woke up to an email entitled “Your flight is not affected by volcanic activity in Reykjanes Peninsula” on the morning of my most recent trip. The Sundhnúkur volcano had erupted several times in recent months and caused the evacuation of the village of Grindavík. It was apparently erupting again the morning of my trip. (And a couple weeks after my return as well! And activity persists!) Iceland is built on an active foundation of 130 volcanoes and the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, caused by the separation of two major tectonic plates, the North American and Eurasian. To say that Iceland is a hotbed of activity, is both an understatement and very intended pun.

After purchasing a new coat at SeaTac Airport before boarding our flight, my longtime travel pal, Kristin, and I embarked upon another adventure to Iceland. Unlike our last Icelandic journey, we weren’t required to do COVID tests coming or going, so that was a nice bonus. Also in difference to our first outgoing flight to Iceland, this flight was smooth and event free. (No insane turbulence! The kind where you introduce yourself to the guy sitting beside you and perhaps hold hands.) Additionally, the tailwinds were in our favor, and we landed in Iceland a full hour ahead of time.

Travel lessons learned: I create extensive, nerdy, overly-involved travel checklists for every adventure. Yet still, on my first Iceland adventure, I didn’t inspect my hiking boots thoroughly enough and the soles completely blew out within the first hour of walking around in the extreme cold. (Nice boots, but older.) I then had to gingerly walk, in said extreme cold, to find a sports store open on Christmas Eve where I could buy a new pair of boots. This trip, I packed coats, but didn’t pack my main, super-cold-weather coat. It is extremely important to have a warm coat during the winter months in Iceland, so I had to purchase one at the airport in preparation. Moral of the story: Triple check you’ve included everything on your list, and thoroughly vet each item’s trip-worthiness.

On all of our trips, we arrived at Keflavik Airport very early, in the dark of morning. As Iceland is eight hours ahead of Seattle in the winter months, we arrived just after 5am. This can also be a challenge to one’s morning alertness as it doesn’t get fully light this time of year until 10am or so. As we sleepily made our way through the airport, on our way to immigration and baggage claim, I was dreaming of coffee, a nap, and a lot more coffee before beginning the day’s adventures in earnest.

Once we’d cruised through the mercifully short immigration queue and baggage claim, we headed towards our Flybus pick-up area. The Keflavik Airport has good food options, nice shops, is nicely laid out, and is a good place for a long layover. They also have a fairly extensive Duty-Free store, where we stopped for essentials before leaving the airport. Snacks, booze, licorice, booze, snacks, licorice… Important items for any trip!

Pro Tip: You can’t buy beer, wine, or spirits in Icelandic grocery stores and the government-run liquor stores (Vinbudin) aren’t always convenient or open. Therefore, if you’d like to make a cocktail or enjoy a glass of wine at your hotel or Airbnb, stop by Duty Free before leaving the airport and stock up.

One of the things I’d greatly been looking forward to was a return to the Icelandic hotdog. “But you can get a hotdog nearly anywhere,” you say? Yes, there are many amazing hotdogs and sausages to be found around the world and I’m generally on a mission to try them all. That said, the Icelandic hotdogs are particularly amazing, and I was on a mission to try as many as possible on this trip. I’d had a couple on my last visit and had been looking for ways to get them in the US ever since. (Tl;dr – You can’t get them in the US. You can import the condiments, but not the actual hotdogs. Why, USDA? WHY??) Hotdogs are Iceland’s national comfort food and if I have to go to Iceland to enjoy them, so be it.  

And why am I all of the sudden going on about hotdogs? Because there’s a hotdog stand in the airport before you even go through immigration, and another after you’ve gone through! They literally get you right out of the gate. I’ll go into more hotdog detail later in the article (you’re welcome), but I was very excited to see the vibrant red signage of Iceland’s premier hotdog vendor, Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur as we were making our way out of the airport.

After enjoying what will forthwith be known as HOTDOG #1, we made our way to the Flybus pick-up area and were greeted with our first blast of the Icelandic cold. (Glad I invested in that airport coat!) The wait to board the bus wasn’t too long and before we knew it, we were warmly ensconced and on our way towards Reykjavik. The skies were just starting to show the morning light and the hour-long ride into town was filled with great views of the stark, snow-covered landscape.

Circling back to the volcano, which was erupting that morning, there is only one road in/out of the airport to Reykjavik. This particular volcano is relatively close to the airport and surrounding areas, so if lava were to cross the road, which it has recently done in surrounding areas, access to the airport would immediately be cut off. Granted, Iceland has volcano-based contingency plans, and has been incredibly efficient in addressing related issues, but lava’s gonna do what lava’s gonna do. Luckily, our trip into town that day was very expeditious, and unimpeded by lava.

Regarding Flybus logistics – and these are important – you’ll need to figure out your bus stop location when booking. The Flybus will initially drop you off at the bus transfer station and you’ll then need to locate your connecting bus. If you’re staying at one of the hotels in Reykjavik, the transfer Flybus will often drop you off directly at the hotel. If you’re staying at an Airbnb, it’s fairly easy to get relatively close. Since we opted for an Airbnb on this recent trip, we located the stop closest to our Airbnb and prepared for a short walk to our lodging.

Important note: The transfer station can sometimes be crowded and slightly confusing. Keep an eye out for your color-coded bus stop number posted on the busses as they drive into the pick-up area.

Once we had correctly identified where we were supposed to disembark, we hauled our luggage off the bus and stopped to consult good ol’ Google Maps for our next steps. While there aren’t crazy, Seattle-style hills in downtown Reykjavik, there are certainly some decent grades; especially when you throw in snow and ice. In retrospect, I should’ve changed my boots at the airport. Sure, I was wearing some semblance of boots, but they weren’t the greatest for walking uphill in the snow and ice, with luggage and Duty Free. Yes, HOTDOG #1 provided some necessary fuel, but I was greatly in need of some additional caffeinated assistance.

While I will admit to being a little frustrated with the uphill, luggage-filled trek to our Airbnb, it was hard to stay grumpy amidst the completely charming, impossibly quaint neighborhoods. Reykjavik is known for its cool murals and the neighborhood homes are no exception. The homes are also often painted in vibrant colors and feature traditional, Nordic-themed architectural motifs. The neighborhood we were staying in also included many of Reykjavik’s original homes from the late 1800s.

Upon having finally reached our Airbnb, where our host graciously allowed us a (very) early check-in, we happily relaxed in our cozy home-for-the-week. Located next to the 4-star Hotel Holt, known as The Art Hotel, it was a full apartment with two bedrooms, bathroom, laundry and full kitchen. The neighborhood was charming, quiet, and ended up being perfectly situated for adventuring around Reykjavik on foot.

Reykjavik has many great lodging options, including traditional hotels, Airbnb, and hostels. On our last visit, we opted for a hotel booked via the Icelandair options. If you’re looking for an economical option for your trip, the Hotel Cabin is a great spot. It’s not luxurious, and features an IKEA-style of lodging, but also includes a breakfast room, great concierge, and a cozy little bar and lounge area. (It also includes some very… interesting… art work.) It’s also located near the fantastic Sculpture and Shore walkway and the iconic Höfði House, and is a close walk from downtown. In a nutshell, it’s fairly easy to find the perfect spot in Reykjavik from which to embark upon your Icelandic exploits.

After a much-needed nap, it was time for the first walk-about. Reykjavik is an incredibly walkable city, filled with great food, shopping, museums, culture, and never-ending, amazing scenery. There is literally a postcard shot in every direction you turn. During the winter, as long as you’re prepared for the weather, it’s easy to spend the entire day wandering around the downtown core, taking in all the city has to offer.

The weather was beautiful overall on this trip, albeit a bit windier and snowier than our last visit. There was snow and ice on the ground throughout the trip, and it did snow a small bit, but it was generally bright and sunny throughout the trip. My very favorite days are cold and sunny with snow on the ground and Reykjavik didn’t disappoint. (Reminds me of the crisp, cold, winter days of central WA.) And while it may be cold, don’t forget to bring sunglasses and a good SPF along with your warm coat, hat, and gloves.

My first order of business was to find a local coffee shop. I’m always on the lookout for a good cup of coffee and Reykjavik has many excellent options for coffee, tea, and more. One thing to note is there are no big-chain options like Starbucks or McDonalds in Iceland. While I’m slightly sad to not be able to continue to grow my goofy “You Are Here” Starbucks mug collection, I’m more than happy to support local businesses. In addition to many great, smaller coffee spots, you can usually find several Te and Kaffi shops, Iceland’s answer to chain shops like Starbucks. They make a great cup of coffee and feature tasty treats to accompany your drink.

On a sidenote to the lack of Starbucks or McDonalds locations in Iceland, there are an odd number of Domino’s Pizza, Subway, and Sbarro restaurants in Reykjavik. Odd.

Now that I’d refueled with a good dose of caffeine, I was ready to take on the city. But first, there were a few errands to do. On the first day of any trip, it’s a good idea to make sure you’ve made the necessary reservations, grabbed snacks and sundries for your stay, gotten the lay of the land, replaced any items you may have forgotten, and picked up items such as the City Card. (City Cards speed up museum entries, give discounts to local shops, etc.)

Here’s an example itinerary and basically what we did on our first day in Reykjavik:

  • We needed some supplies for the Airbnb, so we stopped by the local Bónus 9-21 grocery store and stocked up on the basics. (i.e. Pastries, cream, mixers, snacks) Even if I’m not in need of supplies, I love checking out local grocery stores wherever I might be. It’s a great place to get an understanding of the local palate, cuisine, and community. (Interesting tidbit: The Bónus piggy mascot is quite iconic in the area.)
  • I’m usually on the lookout for interesting gifts and souvenirs throughout my journey, but it’s fun to hit up some of the shopping options on one’s first day. A great place for a little of everything is the Icelandic chain Icewear. They’re everywhere, with the Arctic Explorer stores being part of chain. Part outdoor, part souvenir, part everything else stores, they feature a great selection of Icelandic wares. (Arctic Explorer is where I got my boots after the Great Boot Blowout of 2021. This time, I found an excellent wool koozie mitten and volcano salt & pepper shakers, among other things.)
  • If you’re further looking for outdoor gear options, stop by 66°North. Think the North Face of Iceland. While I wasn’t looking for a coat or boots at this point, it’s always a great shop to check out.
  • If the city I’m visiting features a card which allows for quick and/or discounted entrance to local attractions, I always grab one. Reykjavik has the aforementioned City Card which has some great discounts and features. We purchased ours online before the trip and picked it up at one of the many featured attractions throughout the city. We opted for pickup at the very cool Reykjavik Maritime Museum. (Museum bonus: This location is also very close to the Viking Saga Museum)

Museum Pro Tip: Double-check opening times and days for museums and they vary between summer and winter.

And now, back to the topic of hotdogs…

It was at this point in the day the first hotdog had worn off. Enter, HOTDOG #2. (Hello, HOTDOG #2! We welcome you!) Since I’d visited the Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur airport stand earlier in the day, I thought it was appropriate to seek out the original stand, circa 1937. Found in downtown Reykjavik and frequently sporting a long line, this is the crown jewel in Iceland’s longtime love affair with the hotdog, or pylsa/pulsa in Icelandic. Visiting dignitaries and heads of state have found their way to this very stand. While they likely didn’t have to stand in line, I was willing to wait my turn for one of these glorious, tubed-meat creations.

Often labeled Iceland’s favorite comfort food, the hotdog has been elevated to epic status in the country’s capital. You can grab a hotdog nearly anywhere throughout the city and beyond. Case in point, it is entirely possible to procure a very tasty hotdog at gas stations across the country. Sure, there’s something oddly tasty about a 7-11 chili-cheese dog at 2am on a Saturday night, but the Icelandic gas station and mini-mart dogs are in another league altogether. (Sidenote: The “Seattle Dog,” as purchased at 2am in the heart of Seattle is another hotdog experience of note. It might just merit its own article. Note to self.)

I’d been dreaming and scheming of how to get Icelandic hotdogs in the states, but as mentioned earlier, the USDA refuses to get onboard. Now that I’d finally returned to Iceland, it was important to take advantage of every day and its hotdog availability. I very nobly decided to take on the self-imposed challenge of eating at least one hotdog a day during my trip and profiling the experience. Since this was already HOTDOG #2, I was off to a great start. Do follow along with me on this noblest of adventures.

Hotdog How-to: There are many different ways to enjoy an Icelandic hotdog, but definitely try one “with everything” on your first time out. What might that entail? Here’s the scoop:

  • One footlong, lightly steamed hotdog bun
  • A squirt of Vals Ketchup (apple based) on the bun followed by finely diced white onion and crunched up fried onions (think French’s Fried Onions)
  • On top of the ketchup and onions, add a footlong Icelandic hotdog (mix of organic, grass-fed lamb, pork, and beef) boiled in beer and water. (They’re done when they float to the top)
  • On one side of the hotdog, add a swipe of sweet brown mustard and on the other side, a swipe of remoulade
  • ENJOY!!
  • REPEAT!!!

With HOTDOG #2 dispensed, we made a quick return to our conveniently located Airbnb to drop off our shopping. It was now time to contemplate our evening plans. Upon reflection, maybe it wasn’t a great idea to plan an adventure that started at 8:30pm after arriving at 5am, with no sleep on the flight, and only a two-hour nap. But whatever, sleep is overrated, right? We’d booked a Northern Lights tour and it was a clear night. The hunt for the space lights was on!

But first, some further sustenance was in order! Yes, I was still partially under the spell of HOTDOG #2, but as Kristen is not a fan of the hotdog (the horror!), she was rightfully hungry. We’d visited Reykjavik Fish on our last trip and it was time to revisit their delicious, perfectly cooked, fish and chips. SO GOOD. Great atmosphere, multiple locations around town, and much more than fish & chips on the menu. Not to be missed!

Fully fueled by delicious fish and chips, it was time to make our way to our new friend, Bus Stop No. 3. The Aurora Lights tour outfit was picking us up for our Northern Lights Small Group Tour at 8:30pm. Booked via the excellent Aurora Reykjavik Northern Lights Center, we were very excited to again hunt for the lights. We’d vaguely witnessed them on our first trip, but we were hoping for a bigger display this time around. Since the best viewing months are September through April, we were feeling lucky.

Unlike the big-bus tour of our last trip, this was a smaller scale operation and featured a very entertaining driver, complimentary hot chocolate, and Icelandic-favorite cinnamon rolls by Braud & Co. (Check out their cinnamon roll recipe) The tour also includes free photos of the adventure, the option to re-book for free if you don’t see the lights, and the ability to head to viewing spots where the big busses can’t go.

Unfortunately, we didn’t really see much of a show that night. We saw a vague display, and though our driver took us to many possible viewing areas, the lights remained mostly elusive. We did have the option of re-booking for another night, but since this was a fairly quick trip, it wasn’t likely to happen. However, do not despair. Our light plight was not at an end. This saga may yet have a happy ending…

In the meantime, some Northern Lights Quick Facts:

  • The Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis) are a result of the sun creating geomagnetic storms that crash into the earth’s magnetic field. On clear nights, they can be spotted in northern locations around the world such as Sweden, Norway, Finland, Iceland, Alaska, Canada, and even Washington state. In addition to a clear night, you’ll also need low-level light pollution. The further away from the city you can get, the better the viewing.
  • Sisters to the northern display are the Southern Lights (Aurora Australis). Typically visible during their winter months of March thru September, New Zealand, Australia, and Antarctica are prime spots for catching the southern display.
  • Viewing the lights with the naked eye is difficult. If the storm is particularly strong, you might catch a small bit of color, but the naked eye will usually only see a wispy, whitish, cloud-like representation of the lights. A lens is required to catch the full-color of the display, be it via phone camera, traditional camera, or video camera. Pro Tip: Be sure to check your camera settings for night viewing options.
  • The lights are very fickle and it’s hard to fully predict when and how strongly they will show. Keep track of storms and stronger viewing possibilities on tracking websites like Spaceweather.com.

After a very necessary rest, the next morning was off to a sunny start. (When the sun fully came up around 10am, that is.) Like all Nordic countries, Iceland is very keen on swimming, saunas, hot springs, and all things aquatic. On our last Icelandic adventure, we made a pilgrimage to the famous Blue Lagoon spa, about forty-five minutes outside of Reykjavik. However, since the volcano was currently erupting in that area, we decided to investigate other options. (The volcano has since erupted again, and lava went across the access road to Blue Lagoon and nearby Svartsengi Geothermal Power Plant. They had the road cleared within a week!)

On this trip, Kristen was making a solo trip to the Hvammsvik Hot Springs (via bus stop no. 3) and I was all set to seek out good coffee and a bit of tasty food. I love a good hot springs as much as the next water lover, but since our trip was on the short side, I was trying to squeeze in a variety of sightseeing opportunities. (and hotdogs) We’d also reserved a day of relaxation later in the trip at the nearby Sky Lagoon and I was hopeful it would cover all of my hot spring and sauna needs.

For the record, the Sky Lagoon was amazing and far surpassed my expectations. The Blue Lagoon is incredibly unique and well worth a visit, but it is also very touristy and crowded. (I was also sick on my visit to the Blue Lagoon and only enjoyed the waters from the bar inside. Heh.) I honestly could’ve stayed at the Sky Lagoon all day, prune-y skin be damned. We opted to do the “Seven Rituals” experience and while I probably wouldn’t do it next time, it was absolutely worth a try. I honestly dream about casually floating around the lagoon, checking out the scenery, and enjoying a glass of wine. DREAMY. I will be back.

Hot Springs Pro Tips: Be sure to make reservations wherever you’re going. I also recommend springing for the private changing room/shower at the Sky Lagoon and throwing in the smorgasbord lunch.

As mentioned, while Kristen was swimming, I was roaming around town, seeking out tasty food and beverage. My first stop was at the DELICIOUS and very quaint, Saegreifinn (The Sea Baron) to try their lobster soup. It’s safe to say, I’d eat that soup every day. If you’re feeling brave, you can also try the classic Icelandic fermented shark dish (Hákarl), along with a shot of Brennivin. (I’ve now had plenty of Brennivin, but still haven’t stepped up to the shark…) The rest of their menu looked very tasty, and I was quite jealous of the dishes coming out to my fellow diners, but I also had… HOTDOG #3 to source.

Now fortified by lobster soup and HOTDOG #3, it was time to roam around and check out the shops. The downtown core of Reykjavik is filled with great shops, restaurants, museums, hotels, and more. The most popular streets are Laugavegur Street, the lovely Rainbow Street, and Austurstraeti Street. Should you be looking for chain stores, there are also shopping malls like Kringlan and Smáralindar, located just outside of downtown which feature upscale brands and the like. However, since the brand stores are largely available at home, I always prefer to comb the downtown areas for unique, local shopping opportunities. 

Case in point, Iceland has some pretty epic candy options. They have great chocolate, absolutely, but one of the first things I grab is one of their nine million kinds of black licorice. Love it or hate it, Iceland and all of the Nordic countries have cornered the market on black licorice. If that’s your candy jam, be sure to make a stop at Vínberið, located on Laugavegur Street. Not only do they have an excellent selection of licorice and chocolate, but the staff is also very nice, and they give free samples. Be sure to try some of Reykjavik’s delicious OmNom Chocolate while you’re there. Omnomnomnomnom! (Sidenote: I’m very excited to report I’ve recently found a candy shop two blocks from my home which stocks Icelandic candy, including OmNom!!! Check out Sugar Rush if you’re in the Bothell area! They also have a great selection of British candy. Mmmmm… Curly Wurly bars… )

Reykjavik has many excellent museums to explore. We were hoping to visit the Perlan Museum on our last visit, but due to COVID closures, were unable. Not the case on this trip! After Kristen had returned from her leisurely swim, we grabbed a taxi and headed just outside of downtown to visit this very cool museum. Set on a hilltop, this dome-shaped building offers an amazing 360-degree view of the area, including downtown Reykjavik and some pretty amazing foothills and snowy mountains. (Note: Get a discounted entry with a City Card)

Featuring well-curated exhibits, the museum covers Iceland’s natural wonders, including the Northern Lights, volcanic activity, and all things icy. If you don’t get a chance to check out the Northern Lights, lava, or super cool ice caves in person, Perlan is great option. Their shows featuring the Northern Lights and volcanic activities are excellent, but I was particularly impressed by the actual ice cave exhibit in the lower part of the museum. Very cool! Literally. Be sure to wrap up your visit with a snack or meal in the beautiful dining area located on the museum’s upper level. The 360-degree view of the sunset through the glass dome was absolutely stunning.

Taxi Tip: There are a few good taxi companies in Reykjavik and the busses are great. (#BusstopNo34life!) We used the reputable Hreyfill Taxi to take us to and from Perlan.  

On the topic of transportation options, and generally getting around in Iceland, we chose to rent a car for a day of adventuring on our last trip. We headed out on the epic, 800-mile Ring Road (Route 1), with the black sand beaches of Reynisfjara as our ultimate destination. Along the way, at every turn, we encountered some of the most spectacular scenery on the planet. Reykjavik proper is a wonderful place to visit, but I can’t recommend enough getting outside of the city to further take in the endless Icelandic beauty.

Rental car pro tip: Get rental insurance, AWD, know how to drive off-road (and possibly ford rivers), and maneuver in snow/adverse conditions; especially in the winter. Iceland ain’t messin’ around when it comes to driving adventures.

It’s firmly planted on my bucket list to complete the Ring Road during the summer when it’s a little less precarious. I’d like to take a full week to leisurely explore its treasures, including stopping at every accessible waterfall and glacier possible. (There are A LOT.) That said, the day-long adventure we were able to fit into our short itinerary was beyond worth it. Since our drive was only one day, with the daylight in short supply, we had a pretty packed schedule. While there is still SO much more to explore along our path, I have to say I’m pretty impressed by what we packed into the day.

Some of the amazing highlights:

  • Iceland is known for its sheep, and relatedly, its wool. On my initial layover in Iceland, I had the chance to peruse some of the beautiful wool products in the airport shops. On this trip, I wanted to visit the birthplace of Iceland’s wool industry, the Álafoss Wool Store. Located a short drive out of Reykjavik in Mosfellsbær, this company has been around since 1896 and continues to grace Icelandic homes with all things wooly. Situated in an idyllic location, this original factory features the Álafoss waterfall and Varma River out back, both of which used to drive the mills of the original factory. Present-day, this flagship location houses a wool store as well as a museum-like setting featuring displays and old knitting machinery from the original factory. Well worth a wooly visit!
  • Our ultimate destination for the day was the black-sand Reynisfjara beach. Racing against the setting sun, we got there just in time to see an amazing sunset and gorgeous beach scene. Located in central South Iceland and part of the Katla UNESCO Global Geopark, this beach is the stuff of fairytales. Sporting beautiful views, rugged cliffs, caves, petrified trolls, and a black-sand and pebble beach, it’s a don’t-miss destination! (Safety bulletin: Sneaker waves are real! Don’t turn your back on the ocean. Don’t do it. The signs are there for a reason.)
  • Back to the topic of wool, we also visited the little village of Vik i Myrdal, located just around the bend from Reynisfjara beach. Not only is there a huge Icewear outlet store, they also have the Katla Woolen Knitting Factory to fill all your wooly needs. The village itself is fairly small, but apparently has enough lodging to support the scientists studying the area as well as tourists. The town only has 300 residents, but 1400 rooms! (Sidenote: If you’re looking for an Icelandic mystery/drama about an ongoing volcanic eruption in the Vik area, check out Katla on Netflix. In classic Icelandic form, it’s fairly dark, but definitely highlights this part of Iceland.)
  • The road trip itself was a huge part of the adventure. Around every turn, there seemed to be a waterfall, and around the next bend, a sweeping glacier. One of the waterfalls we stopped at, the Seljalandsfoss was breathtakingly beautiful. And featured a cute little snack shack and gift shop! (Also in the area and a stop for my next trip is the Skogafoss waterfall.)

Another epic adventure we took on our last trip was to explore the Golden Circle. If you only have a couple of days in Iceland, do the Golden Circle tour. Full stop. We booked a big-bus tour via Icelandair to explore it on our last trip, and it was worth every second on the bus. On a future summer visit, I’d like to rent a car and explore the route at my leisure.

The Golden Circle route starts just outside of Reykjavik and just off the aforementioned Ring Road/Route 1. The tour we were on specifically hit up all the key points along the Golden Circle route. The first stop was at the amazing Friðheimar Greenhouse. Featuring a spectacular tomato greenhouse, a restaurant, bees, horses, and the best bloody Mary I’ve ever had, it was an excellent way to start the day. There was just something magical about arriving in the chilly pre-dawn (aka: 10am) and entering the lush, fragrant world of the greenhouse. Big sigh.

After fortifying ourselves with all things tomato, the next stop on the tour was the Geysir geothermal area, featuring the Strokkur Geysir and Geysir Center. (The center also includes a hotel, camping, spa, golf course, store, gift shop, and restaurant) While we did get to explore the area and take in some spectacular geyser displays, there is SO much more to experience in the vicinity. The one downfall of doing a tour is being at the mercy of the tour’s timetable. I can’t wait to revisit this area and take my time discovering the amazing surroundings.

If you’re a waterfall chaser like me, Iceland is the place to be. The most specific place to be, if you enjoy waterfalls and Iceland, is at the mind-blowingly beautiful Gullfoss Waterfall. Located in the Golden Circle, and a tour centerpiece, the epic waterfall is simply extraordinary. It’s no wonder Iceland is such a land of fairytales with otherworldly beauty like Gullfoss. I easily could’ve stood staring at those falls all day long. Granted, it was incredibly windy and very cold, with icy slivers blowing in our eyes, but it sure was spectacular. Go there!

The final stop on our Golden Circle tour was Thingvellir National Park. Very appropriately designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this sprawling park is awe-inspiring. Straddling the North-American and Eurasian tectonic plates, the area is an ever-shifting thing of beauty and wonder. (The plates are moving apart at approximately 2.5cm a year!) A simple stroll down any of the very accessible walking paths or hiking trails takes you next to, across, and around deep fissures, fascinating geologic striations, and the rugged waterscapes of the Öxará river. Should you be looking for means of transportation beyond walking or hiking, consider riding on horseback or snorkeling and diving between the continents.

Thingvellir is also a key location in the history and development of Iceland. Beginning in 930 CE through 1798 CE, the area was home to the yearly, open-air Althing assembly. In one of the world’s earliest parliamentary representations, inhabitants from across Iceland would gather for two weeks to settle disputes and agree upon governing. There are still remnants of the booths used during the assemblies and a millennia’s worth of human endeavors in the area.

Bottom line, no trip to Iceland would be complete without a tour of the Golden Circle. It is sometimes the case when arriving at the most-amazing-tourist-destination ever, it’s an overcrowded letdown. This applies to nowhere within the Golden Circle – and nowhere I’ve visited in all of Iceland, for that matter. Even if you only have a day, make the effort to visit the treasures of the Golden Circle. You won’t be sorry, but like me, might be a little sad you only had a day to explore their beauty.

In addition to further exploring all of the previously mentioned areas, including snorkeling between the continents, here are a few more of my Future Icelandic Road Trip Bucket List items:

  • Seeing the Northern Lights is amazing. Viewing them while camping out in a clear bubble yurt? YES, PLEASE. The ultimate Icelandic camping experience, in my opinion.
  • I want to POKE LAVA WITH A STICK. While this is a general bucket list goal, I would love to do it in Iceland. Yes, the stick would need to be long, but where there’s a lava will, there’s a lava way. Relatedly, I want to spend much more time checking out the volcano and glacier scene in Iceland.
  • PUFFINS!! To date, I have yet to see a puffin in Iceland. Where are all the puffins?? Granted, my visits haven’t been during puffin season, but still. (Sidebar: I never want to eat puffin. Or horse. Or whale. All are actually on menus in Iceland.)

Pro tip: There are many amazing destinations to explore on your Icelandic adventure. If your stay is short, tour operators can be very helpful in getting you exactly where you need to go, in an expedited fashion. Meandering about is always lovely, but if you’re short on time, it’s best to get right to it. There are many tour outfits, but I’ve had good luck with Aurora Reykjavik – The Northern Lights Center. In general, look for tours with reasonable cancellation policies and re-books if you don’t see something on your first outing, like the Northern Lights.

There are many areas of Iceland I’ve yet to explore. Luckily, my travel pal, Kristen, was able to cover a few such areas on this trip. As I had several museum and foodie adventures planned for this adventure, I had to live vicariously through Kristen on her exploits. The Westfjords part of Iceland is filled with epic wonder and Kristen did a fine job of taking it all in. Well, as much as she was able to do in a day or so. I’m tellin’ ya, a several week’s long road trip is clearly in order. During the summer months.

Some highlights from Kristen’s adventures:

  • Kristen found an excellent, all-day tour of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula in west Iceland. The tour included the iconic, highly photogenic Kirkjufell and Snaefellsjokull National Park, along with a home-cooked dinner at a local’s home. If you happen to be a fan of Game of Thrones, Kirkjufell, or the Mountain Shaped Like an Arrowhead, was featured in seasons 6 and 7, near “the Wall.”
  • Kristen is an expert equestrian. Since I am not, I left the horse-riding adventures to her. I love horses and riding, but I prefer to be the one riding at the back of the group, taking my time. On this trip, Kristen took her riding skills to the Ishestar Horse Riding Center to enjoy Iceland from horseback. Important note: Icelandic horses are smaller than western horses, but they ARE NOT PONIES. Do not call them ponies. You’ve been warned.

On a sidenote to adventuring in the wilds of Iceland, I was happy to learn there are no animal predators in Iceland. The Arctic Fox is their only native land mammal, and it dines mainly on smaller creatures. The Gyrfalcon , the largest Falcon in the world and national bird of Iceland, rules the skies, but unless you’re a smaller creature you’re likely good. There are also NO snakes, mosquitos, and only one type of wasp. YEAH! But there are midges. (Remind me to tell you the story of how I was nearly consumed by midges in Scotland one summer. Ugh.) Iceland also has non-native mink, rabbit, reindeer, and obviously sheep. And a lot of city cats in Reykjavik. (Roaming around in shops, popping out of alleys, lounging under benches, and featured in the holiday Yule Cat displays…)

While Kristen was exploring the beauties of West Iceland and communing with the ponies-not-ponies, I decided to take in some of the museums. And continue enjoying Reykjavik’s food and drink scene, which to some degree did, of course, involve hotdogs. Those hotdogs aren’t gonna eat themselves, after all…

The first museum I visited was the ultra-cool Reykjavik Art Museum. (Free entrance with a City Card) They were featuring an exhibit of work by prolific Icelandic artist, Erró, among additional, well-curated exhibits of Icelandic artists. The Erró exhibit features many of his provocative pieces, which often encompass a dark sense of political humor and comic-book style of graphic art. His artwork can also be found complimenting the walls of the Keflavik Airport terminal.

One of my very favorite things to do is to wander around a museum for the first time, with no agenda. The architecture, light, and general peacefulness of this museum was absolutely perfect for my maiden voyage. Icelandic art is truly unique; Sometimes a bit dark, sometimes a bit quirky, and sometimes hopeful and full of light. The Reykjavik Art Museum certainly presented Icelandic art with great compliment. I happened to be visiting on a perfectly sunny winter day, and the way the light played through different areas of the museum was art in and of itself.

Next stop on my museum adventure, was the truly unique, one-of-a-kind, Icelandic Phallological Museum. (Entry fee discount with City Card) You read it correctly: A museum dedicated to all shapes, varieties, sizes, and origins of penises. Including and dedicated to all species, the displays are truly fascinating, and also feature some very interesting and inspired art. Begun from a headmaster’s colleague sending him a bull pizzle as a joke, this family-owned museum has now grown to house the world’s largest collection of penises.

I don’t happen to have one myself, but roughly one in two species on the planet do. Why not have a museum dedicated to the appendage? All manner of mammal penises are featured, including a sperm whale. Yikes! The museum features a scientific approach, with the displays being well-presented and documented. Everything is very tastefully done, with a touch of humor here and there, but it’s family-friendly and well worth a visit. Bonus points if you hit up the café for an order of Belgian-style penis waffles (savory OR sweet) and a tasty beverage. (Sidenote: I was disappointed to not see hotdogs on the menu. A major missed-opportunity, in my opinion. Come on.)

In addition to my adventures in penis land, I also visited a few other amazing museums:

  • The National Gallery of Iceland was just a few blocks from where we were staying, and it was a beautiful walk through the snowy neighborhood streets. The exhibits were very modern and absolutely quirky, in the loveliest of ways. The snarky, talking rocks of Egill Sæbjörnsson’s The Egg or the Hen, Us or Them were my favorite, but his troll-life exhibit was pretty amazing as well. (All part of the Egill Sæbjörnsson and Infinite Friends of the Universe exhibit) Don’t miss a visit to this excellent museum. (Closed Mondays in the winter)
  • I wanted to see the House of Collections, sister to the National Gallery of Iceland, but time was not on our side. The beautiful location, originally serving as the National Library, is now featuring additional treasures from the National Gallery collection. Next visit!
  • Host to the required COVID tests needed to return home on our last trip, this trip’s visit to the beautiful Harpa Concert Hall was much more enjoyable. We caught the very unique Circuleight installation, but Harpa Concert Hall most regularly hosts all manner of live entertainment and conferences. Additionally, they have a very stylish café and gift shop. Located right on the water, this striking, architectural gem is a must-see spot. (Also a great place to check out the Northern Lights. More on that later!)

This is just a small cross-section of museums in the Reykjavik area. Be sure to check out the list on the City Card site as well as the Visit Iceland site. I’ve earmarked many museums for exploration on my next Icelandic excursion. (Iceland has 266 museums across the country!) (Sidenote: If you happen to stop by the National Gallery, be sure to check out the amazing amount of birdies at Tjörnin Pond, directly across the street. Ducks, geese, swans, Arctic terns, and more! It’s a lovely pond and when it freezes over, it also becomes a spot for ice-skating and hockey.)

Alrighty, it’s time to talk more about… FOOD! This obviously includes more hotdog chat, but there were indeed a few other Icelandic specialties I was interested in trying. I’d initially planned on hitting up a Reykjavik-based food tour, but I ended up striking out on my own. Next trip! (Pro tip: Local food tours are a great way to broadly experience a city’s cuisine, especially when traveling solo.)

While venturing out in search of HOTDOG #4, I had a nerdy, serendipitous experience along the way. I was walking towards the epic Hallgrimskirkja Church, in pursuit of the epic Víkinga Pylsur hotdog stand, when I came upon a street named “Baldursgata.” While it actually translates as “Baldur’s Street,” I couldn’t help but proclaim that I’d just found the actual Baldur’s Gate! (For further reference, Baldr is the son of Norse god, Odin.) As I spend my days nerdily toiling away in the video games industry, it was pretty cool to stumble upon such a find. If I traveled down this street, would I find myself transported to another world? MAYBE! Next trip. I had hotdogs to find in this world.

And find those hotdogs, and the stunning Hallgrimskirkja Church, I did! Both offering completely different experiences, it was extra epic to experience them together. The hotdog was delicious, and I plan to go back and try all of their hotdog creations. (Pulled pork hotdog anyone?!) The church, which I’ve now had the pleasure to experience in many weathers and times of day, was epic as usual. Regardless of your religious leanings, be sure to visit the church and, in the least, marvel at its beautiful architecture and stunning nave. (Check out that organ!) If you’re feeling sprite, head up to the tower for what is surely an amazing view of the city. (I wasn’t feeling the necessary level of sprightliness on this journey. Full from hotdogs. Next visit!)

Continuing on the topic of epic food experiences, I feel the need to dedicate a few paragraphs to one of the top meals of my life. Sometimes you stumble upon something that changes your life, like the time I accidentally found The National Gallery in London because the Tube was way too crowded and I had to exit – and breathe. And thereby found some of my most favorite paintings on display! But I digress… This particular life-changing event was the result of random wanderings around Reykjavik, and the realization my hotdog had worn off…

The well-reviewed Food Cellar was on my list of restaurants to try, but I hadn’t yet visited. As I walked up to the charming entrance, I noted the restaurant hours on the door. They opened for dinner at 5 o’clock and it was… 5 o’clock on the dot! In I went and looked around for staff, but to my dismay, no one appeared to be around. After going back outside and double-checking the hours, I returned inside and the maître d’ had magically appeared! Upon confirming I didn’t have reservations, he said since I was a party of one, they could fit me in before things started to get busy. Solo dining for the win!

For the first half hour or so, I was the only diner in this very lovely, cellar-level restaurant, and was absolutely pampered by the staff. Housed in the 160-year-old Geysir Building, the Food Cellar pays tribute to its past as well as supports the future of modern Icelandic dining. Featuring an amazing menu of local seafood, dishes range from the classic seafood soup, to glazed lamb, and grilled lobster tails. For the record, their Sailor’s Fish Soup was sublime. I could’ve eaten bowl after bowl and come back for more. DELICIOUS! The soup, followed by pan-fried char and dessert, with top-notch wine-service for each course, will be a very hard meal to match. (Pro tip: Try one of their fixed-prix “Secrets of the Cellar” meals with selected wines. I went for the “Seafood Feast” option.)

Combined with the wonderful service, great cocktails, and relaxing atmosphere, the Food Cellar is a Reykjavik must-visit. As I left wanting more, music from the cocktail bar, being played on their 1880 Bösendorfer grand piano, serenaded me out the door. Simply dreamy. I can’t wait to return!

On the topic of food and drink, it’s time to cover a bit about the beverage scene in Iceland. Alcohol was somewhat off the menu and didn’t fully return to public reach until 1989! Prohibition began in 1915, but wine was legalized in 1922, and all alcohol except BEER?? was brought back in 1935. (March 1st is now celebrated as national Beer Day.) Since then, the drink scene has grown to include many bars, pubs, and some very unique beverages.

On my most recent visit, I stopped in at Dillion Whiskey Bar and had an excellent time sampling local whiskies and more. They even had my favorite Scottish whisky, The Classic Laddie! Set upstairs from the restaurant portion of one of Reykjavik’s oldest wooden homes, the bar features a huge selection of whiskies as well as live music, and even a whiskey school! I’m betting their students don’t need much prodding to do their homework…

Some tasty Icelandic spirits to try on your next Icelandic adventure:

  • I tried the Flóki Single Malt Sherry Cask finish whiskey while at Dillion’s and it was excellent. On my next Icelandic adventure, I plan to hit up a tour at the Eimverk Distillery to learn more about their Flóki Icelandic Whiskey brand. (The distillery is located 15 minutes outside of downtown Reykjavik – appointment required. Book on website.)
  • By far the most popular spirit found in Iceland, the caraway-infused Brennivin is known as the original Icelandic spirit. Typically served in small, thimble-like shot glasses, it also makes for a variety of very tasty, unique cocktails. I like it chilled, served in one of the adorable, thimble-like shot glasses.
  • The 64°Reykjavik Distillery is a family-run, micro-distillery located in Reykjavik, using methods presented to the distillery by a local elf named Benedikt. True story. The Rhubarb and Crowberry liqueurs are fantastic, as are their gins and aquavits. Also, their recipes come from the elves. TRUE STORY.
  • Not to be confused with my favorite Icelandic musician, the Björk liqueur from Foss Distillery is absolutely unique and delicious. Björk, meaning “birch” in English, is one of Iceland’s most prevalent trees (and musicians), and provides the essence of this delicious liqueur. (Sidenote: I was dealing with an earache when we visited the Blue Lagoon spa on our last visit, so I stayed inside and checked out the lovely bar and café. It is there where I serendipitously discovered Björk liqueur. Next trip, I’d like to enjoy Björk liqueur while hanging out with Björk the musician. Dreams can come true.)
  • Should you be interested in drinking in tribute to the Norse gods, check out Reykjavik Spirits and their Viking Schnapps line. Between Thor (Goldenroot), Loki (Dulse & Blueberry), and Freya (Angelica Root), you’ll be transported to a beverage Valhalla. Their Reykjavik Pink Gin is quite tasty as well.
  • The father-daughter run Og natura distillery makes delicious gin and liqueurs as well as wine and beer. (Iceland’s first winery!) Their gins are fantastic, and they also make the very unique Volcanic Shot. As I love licorice, I find this “hot and spicy” licorice liqueur delicious, and I wish I could find it in the States.

Regarding the food and drink scene of Reykjavik and Iceland on the whole, I’ve barely scratched the surface. I’m going to have to return many more times to feel like I’ve done it justice. (Oh nooo! More foodie adventures!) However, I do feel like I’ve been able to visit some pretty delicious spots thus far. A few details about my favorites to date:

  • I’m not the biggest fan of making breakfast on a regular weekday, but I’m a BIG fan of getting breakfast every day while on holiday. One of my first breakfasts of this trip was at the very cool Prikid Kaffihus (c. 1951) Listed as the oldest café in Reykjavik, Prikid Kaffihus features great food, great atmosphere, live music, and great service. It’s a fine place from which to start your adventures.
  • We were lucky to be in Iceland to celebrate Cream Bun Day (Bolludagur). (Monday before Ash Wednesday and the first day of Lent.) We went to the BakaBaka Bakery & Restaurant (directly next door and up from the entrance to the Icelandic Punk Museum) and enjoyed some very delicious cream buns. They also serve a tasty looking full menu throughout the day. (Sidenote: If you’re not full from all the cream buns, be sure to celebrate Blast Day (Sprengidagur) the following day!)
  • Sometimes you just really need fried rice and Peking duck, wherever you might be in the world. We hit up the Shanghai Restaurant for just that. Yum!
  • Iceland is big on food halls and rightly so. These collections of restaurant stalls contain very tasty, conveniently located options. Be sure to check them out whenever you see them! On this trip, we visited the Pósthús Foodhall and enjoyed a meal from the excellent Finsen restaurant. Everything we ordered was delicious and dining in the public dining hall was fun!
  • Who doesn’t love balls of fried dough, covered with your favorite toppings?? If that sounds tasty, and how can it not, stop in at Loo Koo Mas and enjoy! They specialize in Greek, handmade donuts, and also have ice cream and an assortment of hot beverages. I LOVE their classic donuts coated in honey and sesame seeds. SO GOOD!!
  • If waffles are your thing, head to the supremely adorable Saeta Husid for delicious “bubble” waffles, bagels, and their very unique rolled ice cream. Honestly, this place is too cute and tasty for words.
  • We stopped in at the very cool  Bastard Brew & Food on our last visit for a delicious meal of reindeer burgers. They also feature BBQ, non-reindeer burgers, flatbreads, a great beer selection, and cocktails.
  • 12 Tonar is a very cool record store (yes, actual records!) and café. Located in downtown, it’s a great place to stop in and peruse the licorice donuts and just chill. (While “licorice donuts” is an old-skool term for records, I wonder if they make actual licorice donuts in Iceland. Must investigate.)
  • On our first visit, we arrived on Christmas Eve and needed a place to celebrate. VOX Brasserie & Bar, located in the Hilton Reykjavik Nordica hotel, was the place for such holiday cheer. We enjoyed a lovely buffet in their main dining room, filled with delicious holiday fare. Continuing the hotel-based holiday dining spree, we enjoyed a tasty, fixed-prix Christmas dinner at downtown’s Geiri Smart, located in the Hilton Canopy hotel.
  • Reykjavik is big on ice cream and there are many excellent options. Stop in at Eldur og Ís for delicious ice cream, crepes, and coffee! Located on the famous Rainbow Street in downtown Reykjavik.
  • I basically had my nose pressed up against the window on our last Reykjavik visit, but the store hours and COVID restrictions never seemed to cooperate. This time, however, I was able to enjoy The Sandholt bakery in all of it’s baked-goods glory. WOW! Everything looked amazing and the pastries I tried were fantastic. Next time I’ll be dining in and enjoying one of the amazing breakfast plates I kept seeing come out of the kitchen.
  • I was still full from HOTDOGS #6 and #7, but we still made a stop at Salka Valka for dinner. They had lobster soup on the menu and I’m glad I gave it a try. Delicious! Kristen enjoyed some pretty tasty looking pizza and we both walked out stuffed.
  • There are SO many foodie adventures yet to enjoy, but I have a list building for next time. One such place is the very eclectic-looking Lemmy. Located in one of Reykjavik’s oldest houses and named after famed Motörhead bassist, Lemmy, it features food, nostalgia, music, and drinks. What more could you want? Next visit!

Continuing on with my hotdog adventures, I mentioned HOTDOGS #6 and #7 above. Before we get to that tasty accident, I’ll briefly cover HOTDOG #5.

I’d been trying to visit Pítubarinn, a popular hotdog stand in downtown, but wasn’t having any luck. There are only a few tiny tables inside, and the line was always long. I tried a few times, but never did get to stop. In its place, I tried a little spot along one of the shopping streets in downtown. I’m not a fan of giving negative reviews or bad-mouthing a place, so I’m not going to name names. I will say, however, the place-that-shall-not-be-named had a questionable smell, was very unorganized inside, and the hotdog itself was far from excellent. I ate it, but with great skepticism. I’m not a quitter.

The aforementioned HOTDOGS #6 and #7, on the other hand, were a delicious success. I’d returned to the OG Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur stand for guaranteed hotdog glory. Not only did I get the hotdog I’d ordered, they ACCIDENTALLY gave me a second. (Accidentally, I swear!) Since Kristen was standing next to me when I ordered, they assumed I wanted two hotdogs. While they actually only charged me for one, they handed me two! OH NO! As Kristen doesn’t eat hotdogs (the horror!), and I don’t like to waste food, I took one for the team. I ate BOTH hotdogs. You’re welcome. CRISIS AVERTED. To celebrate my triumph, I later hit up the Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur counter at the 10-11 store (Laugavegur location – open 24/7, hotdogs daily from 10am – 10pm) to pick up a hoodie, as well as some Icelandic hotdog mustard.

Alas, all of the amazing food, art, and scenery, finally brought us to our last night in Reykjavik. Since I still hadn’t seen a proper showing of the Northern Lights, we headed down to the Harpa Concert Hall to try our space-light luck. (Kristen made a solo trek down to Harpa the night before and did indeed see some lights!) We’d checked out the light forecast and were hopeful. After donning our cold weather gear, we hit the snowy streets of Reykjavik and headed down towards the water at around 11pm.

Upon arriving at Harpa, we noticed many other space-light pilgrims were already lined up along the shoreline path. Not more than a couple of minutes after we found our own spot, we noticed the first wispy “clouds” forming overhead. We immediately whipped out our phones and fired up our camera functions. And lo and behold, there they were! The Northern Lights, in all their space-light beauty!

To actually see the lights in person was truly an otherworldly experience. Pictures and video are great, but to see the lights in person (via a lens, of course) was one of the coolest nights of my life. The blue-green, undulating formations were mesmerizing, and I couldn’t get enough. It was freezing cold, and my hands kept going stiff when I’d take off my gloves to use the camera, but whatever. Combined with the crowd’s buzzy excitement and bonding over the sights, it was like nothing I’d ever experienced. I’d nearly get frostbite all over again just to see the show. Next visit!

Space-light follow-up: I miraculously had the opportunity to see another display of the Northern Lights from my home in Washington state. For a few days in May, there was a very strong solar storm which provided great viewing across many of the upper states. It was SO amazing to see them twice in the space of a few months. Additionally, as opposed to the blue-green display in Iceland, this display favored vibrant pinks and purples. AMAZING!!

Seeing the Northern Lights was such a wonderful way to wrap up our most recent adventures in Iceland. On the last trip, during our final walk around town, we ran into a former coworker from Washington state! Half-way around the world, on a random city street, we ran into a friend. On this trip, while we didn’t get to meet up, another friend was in the area! It’s truly a small, small world and not only is Iceland the land of fire, ice, and hotdogs, it’s the land of friends! New friends, old friends, and future friends, the world has so many wonderful relationships to build upon. Keep your eyes and your hearts open.

The only thing left for us to do on this particular trip was to make our way back to the airport via the Flybus and do a final shopping spree at the duty-free store. That Bjork liqueur and Flóki whiskey wasn’t gonna buy itself… And also… I needed to procure HOTDOG #8! WOO!! Okay, and also maybe a delicious, and much deserved Pink Drink from the airport bar. (Gordon’s Pink Gin, tonic, and strawberry – not to be confused with the Starbucks “pink drink.”)

It seems I can’t leave the Keflavik Airport without first hanging out with my TSA friends. Just as was the case on my last return trip, I got pulled aside by the US immigration patrol for a “random” search and interview. Sigh. Of course I complied, and of course nothing was uncovered, but it certainly wasn’t fun – or appreciated. I’m hoping the third time is the no-interview charm when returning home from my next visit. And I didn’t even try to bring back hotdogs!! I deserved that stiff beverage afterwards.

After enjoying my beverage and a hang with the troll in the gift shop, it was time to make our way to the gate. It amazes me how much we were able to pack into the week, including the number of HOTDOGS I enjoyed. As I walked dreamily through the airport, I was already thinking of what adventures my next Icelandic visit would feature. Could I finally poke lava with a stick? Would I get to experience more than six hours of daylight? Would it finally be possible to bring back Icelandic hotdogs?? There are so many possible adventures in this magical country to experience, and I can’t wait to see where I end up next visit. And see how many hotdogs I’m able to enjoy…

Until next time, vertu blessaður and safe travels!

Adventure through the land of fire and ice – and hotdogs – with my custom SPOTIFY PLAYLIST

  • I Sing I Swim – Seabear (from The Ghost That Carried Us Away)
  • Color Decay – Júníus Meyvant (from Floating Harmonies)
  • Way Down We Go – KALEO (from A/B)
  • Immortal – Arca (from Pixel Heart)
  • Heimförin – Ásgeir (from Dýrð í dauðaþögn)
  • HyperballadBjörk (from Post)
  • ÆvintýrSóley (from Ask the Deep)
  • WaterfallVök (from Circles)
  • OralBjörk, Rosalía (from Oral)
  • Think About ThingsDaði Freyr (from Think About Things)
  • Volcano Man – Will Ferrell, My Marianne (from Eurovision Song Contest: The Story of Fire Saga)
  • Look At the Light – Sin Fang (from Flowers)
  • Somewhere – Pascal Pinon (from Twosomeness)
  • Ég vil fá mér kærustu – Hjálmar (from Hjálmar)
  • All The Pretty Girls – KALEO (from A/B)
  • Sunny RoadEmilíana Torrini (from Fisherman’s Woman)
  • Mar – GDRN, Moses Hightower (from Mar)
  • Hoppípolla – Sigur Rós (from Takk…)
  • Ég er Kominn heim – Óðinn Valdimarsson (from Er völlur grær)
  • Old Skin – Arnór Dan, Ólafur Arnalds (from For Now I Am Winter)
  • Crystals – Of Monsters and Men (from Beneath the Skin)
  • Engin landamæri – Atli Örvarsson, Sing Fang (from Flóra)
  • The Sky Is Painted Gray – Ásgeir (from The Sky Is Painted Gray)
  • 10 YearsDaði Freyr (from 10 Years)
  • Jaja Ding Dong – Will Ferrell, My Marianne (from Eurovision Song Contest: The Story of Fire Saga)
Hotdog!
I made this particular hotdog in second grade. It’s been a lifelong love affair with the hotdog…

More I Ate the State Adventures:

I Ate the State – Special Edition: SCOTLAND – Part I (w/special guests – London & Reykjavik)

As far back as I can remember, I’ve had a wanderlust. Whether as a child sneaking off to investigate the neighborhood or as a road-tripping adult discovering the next state over, exploring has long been core to my identity. I’ve always loved the sense of home and belonging, but it seemed so much more poignant upon returning from an adventure. I was excited to be home with family, but equally excited to share stories of the new friends and family I’d met along the way. Those feelings were exponentially intensified when I took my first trip abroad. The world suddenly became very large and very small, all at the same time and I was amazed at how connected I felt to people and places on the other side of the planet. The idea firmly took root that we all have many ‘homes’ and ‘families’ – all over the world. There was simply no turning back from the amazing sense of scope and wonder I had experienced.

I’ve been completely changed and moved by chance encounters with strangers over the years – some of whom I’d never see again and some who have now become dear friends and family. If only one of my tales has moved someone I’ve met along the way and inspired their own sense of wanderlust or of belonging on the other side of the world, I will count myself lucky among storytellers.

And on that note, a few tales from my most recent adventure abroad…

Morning Glow
A dreamy morning drive to to Loch Ness

As my friend Kristen and I embarked upon what we had dubbed our Scottish Tour of Destiny, I was a few days into a nasty cold, winter travel conditions were in effect, there were only a few hours of light per day in the areas we were headed and we’d planned an action-packed itinerary with multiple flights to make it work… What could possibly go wrong? (Which would soon become the catchphrase of the journey…) Throw in driving on the wrong side of the road (and the wrong side of the car) through torrential rain and gale-force winds and we had ourselves an epic adventure in the making.

We’d taken advantage of an airfare sale through Icelandair earlier in the year, so our outbound and return flights included layovers in Reykjavik. (I’ve always wanted to visit Iceland and why not do it for free!) On the day of our departure, we got to the airport in plenty of time, security was relatively easy-going and we had ample time to relax before boarding our flight to Reykjavik. But then, just as we were to begin boarding, it was announced we’d be departing FOUR hours late as the AC wasn’t working on the plane and they’d have to find us a new one.  This also meant we’d be missing our connecting flight to London and likely our entire first day in London. (Pro tip: Don’t plan anything for the first 36 hours of a trip that requires advance-purchase tickets. We almost opted to do the Harry Potter lot tour our first day and are SO glad we didn’t!)

While we lingered at our home airport, stretching out the $15 food vouchers the airline had given us, we chatted with fellow passengers and generally passed the time. It’s fascinating, the stories you’ll hear when randomly visiting with strangers. There were also a few passengers who were definitely of the ‘glass half empty (if that)’ variety and they had no trouble dragging everyone else into their world. Never mind we were all in the same boat, so to speak. (Insert eye roll *here*) Just be cool. Harassing the airline desk attendants isn’t going to get you there any faster… We did, however, meet some pretty cool people and make a friend or two along the way.

First Meal
Not quite Scottish fare, but we were stuck at our home airport for a bit…

One woman in particular, Karen, was on the way to help her son move to Finland. She was transporting a rather large load of belongings for him and was worried the luggage wouldn’t follow on her new route. We were all being placed on new connections out of Reykjavik, but the airline wasn’t updating anyone until we arrived in Iceland – and the way the flights were looking, it seemed like we’d be staying the night in Reykjavik while things were sorted. It all felt like a pretty nebulous crap-shoot…To make matters worse for Karen, she didn’t have a cell phone and had packed her list of phone numbers in what was supposed to be her carry-on. Which they annoyingly made her check at the gate… (Something similar happened to Kristen and our foolproof, don’t-have-to-worry-about-checked-luggage-not-making-the short-connection plan was thwarted. Airlines and their shrinking carry-on allowances… Gah!)

Because Karen had no phone or phone numbers, she was unable to alert her son to her travel changes and he would likely be very worried. She did, however, know the email address of her other son. I used my phone to email him – hoping he wouldn’t dismiss the message as spam – and alert him to the changes. He, in turn, got a hold of his brother, gave him the scoop and got back to me. Technology! When we finally arrived in Reykjavik, I let Karen borrow my phone to call her son – crisis averted and all was well.

I’ve definitely benefited from the kindness of strangers on my own journeys and it was nice to pay it forward this time. Because we’d chosen to strike up a random conversation and get to know a stranger, we were all able to pass the time more enjoyably, everyone got where they needed to go (and with luggage!) and we made a new friend. One with whom I ended up having much in common! I also have family in Finland, we both share a lifelong wanderlust and have a knack for meeting people along the way. You just never know when you’re going to make a new friend. (Her seat was even next to Kristen on the flight – kismet!)

After we finally boarded our flight, we were on our way to snowy Iceland. It was stormy, but things were off to a decent start when all of the sudden the turbulence began. I’m a pretty mellow flier, but this was turbulence the likes of which I’ve rarely experienced – some of the worst ever, in fact. (I overheard a flight attendant saying it was the worst she’d experienced in 24 years.) The oxygen didn’t deploy, but people were actually screaming – and I did find myself thinking, “Wow – is this how it’s going to end??” (We also weren’t even out of Washington State yet!) Things did eventually settle down, but it was one of those experiences where you make fast friends with the strangers next to you… Even more friends along the way! It may have also lead to a few glasses of wine during the flight… Heh.

While we didn’t end up staying the night in Reykjavik, we did spend an entire morning and afternoon hanging out at the airport waiting for our rescheduled connection. (The sun rose at 11am and set around 3pm!) Icelandair also gave us rather large vouchers to spend on food, so we entertained ourselves by sampling Icelandic fare and doing some shopping. The main part of the airport is quite modern and open and it was actually enjoyable to hang out and explore. The international departure section of the airport, however, was a long, narrow gauntlet of crowded confusion. I even had the “pleasure” of running through the airport, dodging other travelers as I attempted to get to my departure gate. (They only made ONE announcement and it happened to be the “final” one. My sickly lungs were not happy with the situation…) Once we made it onto our London connection, everything smoothed out. The flight was calm and aside from the one hour circle-tour we were forced to endure over Heathrow, we finally touched down in merry old England.

With the craziness of our journey to London finally at an end, we arranged an Uber to our first night of lodging. (Uber is now in most of the major UK cities) As it was now dark and later in the evening, it was a little tricky finding our way down to the 100-year old Danish fishing barge situated on the shores of the River Thames. With a little help from a local shopkeeper, we found our way and were greeted by our lovely hosts. You never know what gems you’re going to find on Airbnb and this was definitely one of them. Granted, for someone getting sicker by the hour, sleeping on a drafty, vintage barge might not have been the best laid plan. However, for sheer uniqueness, it was worth it and I’m glad we braved the cold. Additionally, our hosts were incredibly kind and very understanding about our late arrival and gave us several great tips about getting around London. It was also pretty spectacular to wake up to a brilliantly sunny morning on the Thames.

As we’d missed our first day in London, we were forced to pare down our sightseeing before heading on to Edinburgh that afternoon. I’ve had the pleasure of visiting London several times in the past, so it wasn’t a total tragedy – and we knew we’d have another partial day at the end of the trip. That said, we still wanted to make the most of the few hours we had and tried to pack in as much as possible. After a hot cup of tea and a round of DayQuil, I was ready to go!

Since we’d booked our train to Edinburgh out of London Kings Cross, we took the Tube over from our spot on the Thames. Once at Kings Cross, we located the Excess Baggage shop to temporarily stow our luggage (I love this service!) and immediately opted to check out the Harry Potter shop at Platform 9 ¾ . I’m not gonna lie – I took a few dorky pics of the Platform 9 ¾ wall. Being a bit of a Harry Potter fan girl, it was tough to make it out of the shop without making major purchases. However, since we knew we’d be hitting up the mother-lode Harry Potter studio lot tour later on our trip, we muddled through.

Pro Tip: Arrange your long distance UK train trips ahead of time using the Trainline app or website. Trainline is indispensable! Also invest in an Oyster Card once you get to London. You can find card dispensing machines in all major Tube stations. Another helpful travel aide is the City Mapper Transit Navigation app. It’s great for giving you the quickest route and transportation type to get where you’re going.  (Works in many major cities around the world!)

Next on the agenda was to grab a quick lunch while cramming in as much sightseeing as possible. We made a quick pit stop at the *Pret A Manger shop at Kings Cross, but our main foodie pilgrimage was a visit to one of my favorite places on the planet, Fortnum and Mason. (Supplying London with delicious wares since 1707!) I stop in every time I visit London and it’s near impossible to leave the store without a big basket of delectable goods. Sadly, as we were only on Day 2 of our journey and had very limited luggage space, I had to greatly restrain my purchasing. However, I did stock up for the train ride with a Scotch egg, shrimp sandwich, dreamy Turkish Delight and assorted baked goods from their downstairs deli counters. For the record, I don’t remotely care how crass I looked as I shoved that Scotch egg down my gullet while standing outside the store. Fancy store entry or not – that Scotch egg needed to be eaten and STAT. It was DELICIOUS.

* London has no shortage of delicious, grab-and-go food options, but the main train and tube stations are a fine place to grab tasty sustenance on the run. Not to mention, a great place to check out trendy shops, bookstore, pharmacies, etc. Very convenient!

After fueling up on Scotch eggs and a fresh round of DayQuil, we popped in next door to Hatchard’s bookshop. (Their nearby Piccadilly location is London’s oldest bookshop, c. 1787) Aside from taking in the multi-floor shop, Kristen was also on the hunt for an Edinburgh “pop-up” map and they had an extensive map and travel guide section. I was also hoping to stop in at The Royal Academy of Arts, located just across the way from Fortnum & Mason, but we were running short on time and needed to get back to Kings Cross. I’ve visited the Royal Academy on past adventures, but never tire of taking in the amazing displays. Also not to be missed in the immediate vicinity is the tourist spectacle that is Piccadilly Circus. Jumbotron advertisement screens, crazy traffic, double-decker buses – Take it all in!

Back at Kings Cross, while waiting for our train to begin boarding, we met a little boy and his somewhat weary grandmother. Not only was he incredibly chatty and animated, he took it upon himself to entertain us with several tunes from his school’s recent Christmas pageant. Sort of felt like a scene out of Love Actually… It was a fairly amusing way to pass the time and a nice accompaniment to contemplating all the things I love about London and places I’ve visited on past adventures.

(Note: This is but a tiny tasting. I’m pretty sure you could live a lifetime in London and never see it all!)

  • National Gallery – Located in Trafalgar Square. Hands down, a must visit gallery. Rubens, Titian, Cezanne, Seurat, Monet, Van Gogh, Rembrandt, Gainsborough, Michelangelo, Raphael, da Vinci, Botticelli – COME ON!!!
  • National Portrait Gallery – Also near Trafalgar Square and not to be missed!
  • The Regents Park and Primrose Hill – I used to stay at the nearby International Students House during my earlier visits to London and spent a lot of time at Regents Park. It’s lovely and also home to the London Zoo and the Open Air Theatre. (Shakespeare in the park – and more!) Also close to Regents Park is Baker Street and the Sherlock Holmes Museum (221b) and the original Madame Tussauds. (c. 1884)
  • Hyde Park – A London classic. You can’t go wrong with a visit to Hyde Park. It’s beautiful, expansive and always entertaining. The willow trees and swans of The Serpentine are stunning, the Rose Garden absolutely beautiful and Speaker’s Corner is never dull.
  • Greenwich Park (UNESCO World Heritage Site) – Stand on the Prime Meridian and experience the impetus of modern measurement. (Greenwich Mean Time has been the standard of timekeeping since 1884) Pop into the Royal Observatory (they offer classes) and check out the beauty of the Cosmos at the London Planetarium. The famous Cutty Sark is also “harbored” at the park.
  • Tower of London (UNESCO World Heritage Site) – The storied palace grounds, the imposing Tower of London ravens, the haunted chambers, the famous prisoners, the daunting fortress walls, the expansive armory, the British crown jewels – An amazing display of history and intrigue to explore!
  • Harrods – Quintessential shopping in the heart of London. Spectacle, excess, delicious treats, delectable dining, things you could never afford – all on 7 floors, in 330 departments!! Why not??
  • Marks and Spencer – Check out the Oxford Street flagship store for a bit of classic British shopping. I swear by their tights and their knickers are ever the UK favourite. I’m also fond of grocery shopping in their food section.
  • The British Museum – One of the most amazing museums of ALL TIME. I can’t say enough. Go there!! See statues from the Parthenon, take in the amazing Egyptian wing – marvel at the Rosetta Stone! Honestly. Don’t miss it!
  • Notting Hill – Ridiculously charming, funky and entertaining London neighborhood w/colorful houses, cool shops and clubs and meandering roads. Check out Portobello Road on Fridays and Saturdays for the full market experience, complete with amazing antique vendors. The spectacular Natural History Museum is nearby and a must-see for any lover of epic fossils – dinosaurs and more!
  • Buckingham Palace – For all things royal. Imagine yourself as an extra in The Crown or Victoria and channel the long history of the English / British monarchy. (Not all having taken place at Buckingham Palace, of course)
  • Westminster Abbey (UNESCO World Heritage Site) – Over 1000 years of history, the abbey is home to all British coronations since 1066 and has played host to a bevy of weddings, funerals and epic moments in world history.
  • Kensington Palace is one of my favorite places to visit in London. Former home of Princess Diana and present home to her sons and their families, it is also home to the lovely Orangery at Kensington Gardens and Kensington Gardens, If you’re in need of a traditional high tea experience, the Kensington Palace Pavilion and Tea Room is the only place you can have traditional afternoon tea on royal palace grounds.
  • Houses of Parliament – The counterpart to the royal set, the stunning Houses of Parliament with its iconic Big Ben is the governing arm of modern Britain and its constitutes. (Note: Big Ben is currently undergoing a 4 year renovation as of 2017, including the Elizabeth Tower / Great Bell (Big Ben) and Great Clock)
  • In addition to the incredibly convenient and extensive London Tube, take a Cruise on the Thames to see London from a different angle – or hop on/hop off one of the classic double-decker bus tours for a best-of-London extravaganza. There are so many ways to see and enjoy London!

Since we were leaving later in the afternoon, there wasn’t much scenery to enjoy along the way to Edinburgh. Winter nights fall quickly and most of the journey was spent simultaneously nodding off to NyQuil and defending my personal space from the guy next to me. I’ve taken this journey before and there’s nothing like rolling into Edinburgh and getting your first glimpse of the castle on the hill. This time, however, the scene was dark and groggy as we pulled into Waverly Station, located in the heart of Edinburgh and situated between the Old Town and New Town. (Both included as a UNESCO World Heritage Site)

Upon disembarking from the train, we were hit with just how chilly it was that evening. I’m normally a giant fan of frigid temps (that aforementioned Finnish heritage), but this was some serious, countenance-challenging cold. Granted, I’m sure my worsening sickness (and all it was turning into) was partially to blame for my lack of tolerance, but the cold seemed to reach directly into my bones and squeeze. Our Airbnb wasn’t too far away, so grabbing a taxi seemed silly, but I’ll fully admit to lamenting each step as we slogged our way through the cold. However, since we were surrounded by the stunning winter beauty of Old Town Edinburgh, I was absolutely willing to power through.

For the record, Edinburgh is one of my favorite places in the entire world. I first visited Scotland in 1995 with the intent of working in Edinburgh as part of a university work-study program. (I ended up at a little inn in the Northern Highlands, but more on that later) As I mentioned earlier, there is nothing like rolling into Edinburgh on a sunny day and catching that first glimpse of Edinburgh Castle. I immediately fell in love with the city and those feelings have never since waned. Cold, hot, sunny, stormy – Any time of the year, Edinburgh is one of the most amazing, magical and intriguing places to be found. Adding it’s one of the most artist-friendly cities in the world and deemed one of Europe’s most haunted locales assures there will never be a dull day in Edinburgh.

Piper
Lone piper on the Royal Mile (Photo credit: K. Spoor)

Upon arriving at our very charming flat located directly on the history-laden Royal Mile, our equally charming Airbnb host greeted us with a personal tour of the flat and a lovely gift basket. Scottish hospitality is a wonderful thing and we felt very welcome in our temporary home. Looking out of my bedroom window and finding The World’s End pub located directly across the street was an unexpected bonus. (The World’s End used to mark the edge of the walled-city of the Old Town and was to many of the residents housed inside, the actual world’s end. It also plays into the story-line of Voyager, the third book in Diana Gabaldon’s Outlander series.)

  • Nerd Alert: Outlander is one of the inspirations that originally brought me to Scotland – along with the first Highlander And the Highlander television series. Time traveling and immortal Scotsmen?? Yeah, I was totally on board… Still am, in fact. Additionally, the Outlander series has now been fabulously adapted for television on the STARZ network. Check out this local Outlander guide for a good list of spots to investigate during your Edinburgh visit.

Since our Fortnum and Mason wares had worn off and we were bursting at the seams with the excitement of being in Edinburgh, we dumped our bags and headed up the Royal Mile to find some Scottish cuisine. Also on the agenda was to meet up with our friend, Piotr, who was joining us for the Edinburgh portion of our adventure. He was doing his own UK exploration with further travels in Poland, but had popped into Edinburgh for a few Scottish exploits along the way. Since he had arrived in town earlier in the day, he was able to procure a table at the crowded Deacon Brodie’s on the Royal Mile. (The duplicitous William “Deacon” Brodie inspired Robert Louis Stevenson’s Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde) It’s a bit touristy, but classic and their fish pie and hot toddy were just what I needed to power up in the cold. (It should be noted that Kristen ordered her first meat pie (Of MANY) that night. And okay, I ordered my first hot toddy… (Of MANY) Suffice to say, we were both on personal journeys to hunt down the tastiest versions of each.)

After dinner, we braved the cold (snow was forecast!) and walked up and down the Royal Mile. Famously located at the top of the Royal Mile is Edinburgh Castle. We were planning on an official visit the next day, but wanted to check out its majesty in the brisk, Scottish night. The castle is always beautiful, but under a cold, starry sky, it was positively stunning and foreboding. To think of the near thousand years of history housed within its walls is absolutely mind-boggling. It’s hard to follow up that kind of pedigree, but walking back down the Royal Mile and taking in the activity still taking place along its well-worn cobblestones with adjoining closes, wynds and courtyards was equally remarkable. It’s also home to scores of excellent pubs from which to grab a perfectly poured pint or (another) hot toddy.

HotToddy
The first hot toddy of the trip!

On the topic of hot toddies, I furthered my research with a stop at the pub located on the street level of our flat.  No. 1 High Street is a cozy Edinburgh pub offering classic Scottish cuisine and tasty beverages. They are also more than happy to put your beverage in a to-go cup to add warmth to your outdoor escapades. No. 1 High Street would be our last stop before a much needed sleep, but this was good to note for the next day’s outings.

  • For a more detailed list of pub offerings in Edinburgh, check out the Edinburgh Heritage Pub Trail. (The World’s End is included on the list!)

The sun doesn’t rise quite as late as further north, but it still wasn’t until around 8:30am that light shown on the horizon.  When it did finally make itself known, the morning sky was bright blue and shot through with pinkish-purple clouds. It looked like a cold and lovely start to a full day in Edinburgh.

The first point of business for the beautiful morning was to enjoy a proper fry-up breakfast. I’d very much been looking forward to this for quite some time and was excited to check out our options. As suspected, there was no shortage of possibilities and we settled on a spot near the University of Edinburgh by the name of Brunch & Supper. (Famed University of Edinburgh graduates such as Robert Louis Stevenson, Sir Walter Scott and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle help give Edinburgh its distinct literary flavor.) Following a brisk walk to the restaurant, we met up with Piotr and plotted the day over our tasty breakfasts. I have to say, I’ve greatly missed the hearty fry-up breakfast and it was especially enjoyable on a chilly winter morning.

A few more options for breakfast in the Old Town area:

  • The Inn on the Mile – A lovely boutique inn and restaurant directly on the Royal Mile. Formerly the British Linen Bank – reminds me of Gringotts!
  • The Edinburgh Larder – Cool spot on Blackfriars Street
  • The City Café – 50s-style diner with breakfasts my friends swear by (We tried to go on the day we left, but they weren’t open yet!)
  • The Baked Potato Shop – Okay, maybe not a traditional breakfast, but “jacket potatoes” are delicious any time of the day!

After gorging ourselves on breakfast, a bit of walking around was in order. On every visit to Edinburgh, I’ve wanted to check out The Scotch Whisky Experience (and barrel ride!) located just down from the castle. As Kristen sadly doesn’t like whisky (the horror!), she decided to venture around the city on a photography pilgrimage. (Some of her excellent shots are featured in this article) Piotr, however, was down for some late-morning whisky, so off we went. I mean, come on – we were in Scotland on a brisk winter morning. What frames the picture better than some whisky tasting?  (Pro Tip: Scotch whisky does not contain an “e” in its spelling. Don’t add one. DON’T DO IT. Case in point, if you happen to work at a tiny Highland inn and accidentally drop one in on the daily menu, you could very well be lectured for hours…)

Wow – what a fine way to spend the morning! The tour was very entertaining and educational. It involved riding in a giant whisky barrel while gently winding through whisky-centric presentations and fun displays. Think adult version of the Teacups ride… (Note: The ride is not jarring and you do it before the whisky tasting.) After the ride you get to explore additional displays as well as take in a well done video about the five distilling regions of Scotland and history of single-malts and blended whiskies. (Complete with a corresponding scratch-n-sniff card!) The tour then wraps up with a mini-class on Scotch tasting and a visit to the world’s largest, privately held whisky collection. Housed in a large room, the collection is comprised of several cabinets, stretching floor to ceiling. It was… breathtaking. #WHISKYGOALS

In addition to the tasting and souvenir whisky glass included in the standard tour, we opted to level up and invested in a bonus tasting at the end. (Because why wouldn’t you??) Appointed with a lovely bar, a beautiful view of the city and a fine selection of whisky, it was a great place to put our newly acquired tasting skills to the test. As I was ill and not quite myself – and a bit off in equilibrium – I sadly spilled one of my whiskies on the way up to our table. Embarrassing! (I’d only had ONE dram at that point, so it wasn’t whisky influenced…) The staff, however, was nonplussed and very kind about refilling my spillage. Wasting good whisky is pretty much a Scottish crime and I was very happy they were so accommodating.

In a nutshell, the tour was absolutely worth it and I’d do it again – and it really did aid in my whisky tastings along the course of our adventure. I wish I could’ve fit some of the golden nectar from their extensive gift shop into my luggage as well as checked out their restaurant/whisky bar, but I’ll be back. In the meantime – Slàinte mhath! (The proper Gaelic toast we learned on the tour. It means “Good health!” and is pronounced slan-ja-va.)

After the tour, we were a bit peckish, so we hit up the Café Hub in the Edinburgh International Festival headquarters, just a few doors down from the whisky tour. The Hub, formerly known as the Tolbooth Kirk, is a beautiful old church and dramatic contributor to the Old Town skyline. It was interesting to see the Gothic-style architecture and vaulted ceilings juxtaposed with the modern trappings of a festival and event headquarters. It was quite the lovely backdrop for the tea and scones with clotted cream and preserves we ordered in the café. They were rather tasty and a great way to prepare for the cold walk around the castle grounds.

From nearly every section of the Old and New Towns, it’s possible to catch a glimpse of the amazing Edinburgh Castle, perched high on Castle Rock. The imposing, stunning castle dominates the city, successfully having guarded it from a near millennia of action and upheaval.  I’ve made a point to visit the castle on every trip and am fairly certain I will make time on all future visits. It would be impossible to thoroughly take in everything on one visit, not to mention be completely exhausting. The castle grounds are extensive with winding cobblestone paths that navigate around a fully-functioning town within a town. A beautiful chapel, royal lodgings, military barracks, great halls, a prison/dungeon, the Scottish crown jewels, museums and fortified castle walls with armaments to protect the castle from all sides are some of the highlights of any visit.

After the castle, we walked down the Royal Mile, taking in the scene and visiting various tourist shops. One of the places I’d been curious about on past visits was the Tartan Weaving Mill, located directly across from the castle. It’s a bit of a tourist trap, but it was very cool to see the looms at work making true Scottish tartan. If you happen to be in the market for trinkets and souvenirs, this is a good place to one-stop shop. They also have onsite genealogists to help one trace their Scottish roots and all sorts of wares to aid showing off any heritage you should uncover. Check out the Heritage of Scotland site for an example of the types of textiles offered.

It had been a gloriously sunny day with bright blue skies, but the daylight was beginning to fade and the temperature was dropping. We decided it was time to head “home” to layer up with warmer gear before venturing down to the epic Christmas Market. A beautiful holiday tradition (and FREE!), the Christmas Market is located in the *New Town in the beautiful Princes Street Garden and across from Edinburgh’s quintessential shopping destination, Princes Street. (Not to mention the stellar Scottish National Gallery and the soaring Scott Monument) Taking advantage of the lovely to-go service at the pub downstairs, we stopped in for a hot toddy to help keep us warm on the walk. (It’s a well-known fact hot toddies are good for what ails ye. WELL KNOWN.)

*The New Town isn’t really that new – especially by US standards. It was built between 1767 and 1850.

Even though the temperature continued to drop and we realized how ill-equipped we actually were for the frigid cold, it was a beautiful night to take in all the Christmas Market had to offer. We wandered through the artist’s stalls and holiday vendors, marveled at the beautiful lights and carnival rides and partook of the delicious food and drink offerings throughout the market. There were SO many scrumptious options, including countless stalls selling hot toddies, Glühwein and tasty hot chocolate and coffee beverages. Not only were there delicious Scottish fares to enjoy, there were many vendors featuring food and drink from around the world. I’ll have to say one of the biggest downfalls of being sick was not being able to fully experience all of the amazing tastes and smells. Sigh… Guess I’ll just have to go back!

I normally love winter weather, but given my sickness, the cold seemed extra pronounced and I decided to invest in some warmer gear, right then and there. (I honestly can’t remember the last time I was quite that chilled to the bone – to the point where my feet felt like ice blocks and it was painful to walk… COLD!) In addition to the new hat I’d purchased earlier in the day, I also snapped up a set of lambswool shoe liners from a festival vendor and a toasty pair of fox slippers and lambswool socks from the “TK Maxx” across the street. (Admittedly, we also stepped inside the store to get warm! It was an added bonus they had a good selection of cold weather wear… And it’s not TJ Maxx, it’s TK Maxx.) Once we were all further bundled up, we braved going back into the cold to enjoy more of the festival. Along with some more hot toddy action… Don’t judge me.

The market scene truly was a winter wonderland and although it would be the only time we’d spend in the New Town area during this visit, it was a very worthwhile way to spend the evening. There are so many amazing things to see and do in this part of town and I wish we would’ve had some more time to visit even a few.

Some of the excellent things to check out in the New Town area:

  • Formerly the Nor’ Loch (now drained), the aforementioned Princes Street Gardens are a lovely place to take a stroll. The blooms and blossoms are glorious in the spring and it offers an excellent perspective of the Old and New Towns. The view of the Castle is also unparalleled and taking in the fireworks at the end of the Fringe Festival in August is one of the most amazing things ever. The Scottish Chamber Orchestra sets up in the valley of the park and music is piped around the city as the fireworks explode into the sky and cascade off the sheer cliff face of the castle. AMAZING!
  • The Balmoral Hotel – Even if you just walk in and look around, it’s worth it. A beautiful example of Victorian architecture, the Balmoral is the go-to hotel for swanky lodging and aristocratic hobnobbing. The bar is amazing and the Michelin-star dining is delicious!
  • In addition to the Scottish National Gallery, the Scottish National Portrait Gallery and the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art are beautifully curated and absolutely worth a visit.

National Gallery
Scottish National Gallery in the New Town

  • Close to the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art is Dean Village and The Walkway. An idyllic, peaceful area in a busy city with a rambling 12-mile trek through the area and alongside the Water of Leith.
  • Check out the thriving foodie scene in the waterfront area of Leith. 4-star Michelin restaurants, pubs, bakeries – Leith has it all! Stroll along the lovely waterfront area and look out onto the Firth of Forth and South Queensbury at the mouth of the Water of Leith and marvel at The Forth Bridge. (UNESCO World Heritage Site)

After saying goodnight to the Christmas Market, we trudged back up the hill to the Old Town. (Albeit a beautiful trudge) It was time to consider turning in for the evening as we had a morning flight to Orkney Island and Ms. Sicky McSickerson was very much starting to fade. However, on the way back to the flat, we noticed a Starbucks (so very Seattle of us) and I decided I really needed an Edinburgh “You Are Here” mug to add to my collection.

With my purchase hot in hand, we began to walk back to our lodgings, but noticed a large crowd of people in the street. They appeared to be singing and dancing to a holiday song, ala flash mob – and were coming down the road towards us. We stopped to watch and I walked up a little closer to film the scene with my phone.

They all appeared to be wearing headphones and there were a few people in the front who appeared to be directing the group. One of these pied pipers was looking in my direction and turned back to the crowd and gave some sort of signal. I was just merrily watching the procession when all of the sudden they all started coming directly towards me! I kept filming – and laughing – and sure enough, they came right up to me and gave me a personal performance! It was one of the coolest things I’ve ever witnessed and it made me absolutely and completely happy. It’s making me smile right now, just writing about it!

Before I knew it, they had wrapped up their performance and bid me adieu as they continued, singing and dancing into the Edinburgh night. I learned later they were taking part in a Silent Adventures event, a flash-mob sort of outfit that organizes “silent disco” street tours all over the UK. I will definitely look them up the next time I’m in town!

After ambling back to our lodgings, I settled into my cozy room across from The World’s End. While hazily drifting off to sleep (thank you, hot toddies), I was filled with thoughts of all the spectacular sights, sounds and tastes Edinburgh has to offer.

A few of the amazing places in the Old Town I’ve previously visited and a few I hope to visit on future adventures:

  • Victoria Street is a must-see street. Colorful, winding and filled with cool shops and restaurants, it was JK Rowling’s inspiration for Diagon Alley. Victoria Street is part of the eclectic Grassmarket area. Classic architecture, unique shops and restaurants, the excellent Edinburgh Farmer’s Market and its darker history of being the town’s execution spot make it a fascinating part of town to visit.

  • Greyfriars Kirkyard – Noted as the most haunted cemetery in the world, Greyfriars Kirkyard is a must-visit for numerous reasons. Pay homage to the great loyalty of dogs with a visit to Greyfriars Bobby and his beloved policeman, John Gray. Check out remains of the Flodden Wall, one of the original walls built around the city. (c. 1560, built after the earlier defeat by the British at the Battle of Flodden) Seek out JK Rowling’s naming inspirations amongst the tombstones. (Tom Riddle, (Minerva) McGonagall, (Alastor) Moody)

  • Close to Greyfriars Kirkyard, you can find the stunning George Heriot’s School which is said to be JK Rowling’s inspiration for Hogwarts. Also located nearby are remains of the Telfer Wall, an extension of the Flodden Wall, built between 1628 and 1636.
  • Edinburgh has the reputation of being one of the most haunted cities in Europe with a dark and bloody history. In support of that mantle, there are many locations to investigate. One of the most fascinating – and tragic – is Mary King’s Close. During the Bubonic plague epidemic of 1645, the area was quarantined and many of the residents perished within. Check out The Real Mary King’s Close tour for a chilling journey through the re-opened close and alleyways. Another great way to learn about Edinburgh’s dark past is to join one of the well-done Mercat Tours walking tours.

  • The Writer’s Museum is a fabulous place to celebrate the rich literary history of Edinburgh. (Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson are the focus of the museum) Housed in a ridiculously charming building located down Lady Stair’s Close, it’s a must-visit for lovers of the written word.
  • Located on the opposite end of the Royal Mile from Edinburgh Castle, The Palace of Holyroodhouse is the storied former home of the iconic Mary Queen of Scots and the current queen’s official residence whenever in town.
  • Arthur’s Seat and Holyrood Park – Technically not part of the Old Town, but within somewhat reasonable walking distance, Arthur’s Seat sports one of the best views around. Hike up to the top of this extinct volcano and take in the view of Edinburgh out onto the Firth of Forth and marvel at the centuries of history and expansion.

CastleView2
View of Arthur’s Seat from the castle

In addition to the never-ending list of places to visit and history to explore, one of the things I’ve come to love most about Edinburgh is its support of the Arts and ability to host spectacular festivals and celebrations. I’ve had the great fortune to take in the spectacular Arts festival, the Edinburgh Fringe Festival which takes place throughout most of August (and throughout most of the city) and most recently, the excellent Christmas Market. Running adjacent to the Fringe Festival, the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo is full of epic pageantry and pipes and takes place on castle grounds throughout most of August. Also running during August is the amazing Edinburgh International Festival. If you happen to be around town for New Year’s Eve, be sure to hit up Edinburgh’s Hogmanay with its torchlight procession on December 30th and fireworks and ceilidh in Princes Street Gardens on New Year’s Eve.

Pro Tips: A great way to get around the touristy areas of Edinburgh is via the hop on/hop off bus tours. (Also good if you just want to take a break from walking and listen to the onboard host talk about the city’s history) I enjoy using the Edinburgh Bus Tour to easily check out the Old Town locations in particular. I also highly recommend getting the Historic Scotland Explorer Pass (discounted during winter months) to gain quick access to many of Scotland’s historic locations. (Edinburgh Castle, Castle Urquhart, Skara Brae, etc.) This can be purchased online before you go.

The next morning we were out of our flat before the sun rose, but could tell it wasn’t going to be another sunny day. It was cold, cloudy and the smell of snow was in the air, but we braved the chill for one last Old Town jaunt. As we were departing at noon to Orkney Island, an early breakfast was in order so we headed up the Royal Mile to find something quick and tasty. We met up with Piotr along the way and enjoyed a last breakfast together at the cheery Café Edinburgh. Regardless of my taste buds only partially operating, the Scottish lox with scrambled eggs and croissant was delicious and a good start to the day.

It was sad to say goodbye to Edinburgh, but it was time to go. As we hopped into our Uber to Edinburgh airport, it vaguely started to snow. My body shivered as I pulled down my hat and put on my gloves. I was looking forward to what would hopefully be warmer weather on Orkney Island…

And with that, I bid you a temporary farewell. Join me next time for the exciting conclusion where we battle gale-force winds and sideways rain, bask in the glory of ancient standing stones and Viking homesteads and commune in the land of epic highland fortresses and feral goats. All true stories!

Slàinte mhath!

*Quick link to Part II of my Scottish adventures

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

On a related note of cheers and toasting, I’ll leave you with my standard hot toddy recipe. It was given to me by the chef at the Highland inn I worked at several years ago. I was nursing a bad cold at the time and she swore by a “remedy” she’d learned from her mother. It absolutely did the trick and I now pass it on to anyone with even the slightest case of sniffles. Enjoy – and feel better!

 Hot Toddy

  • 1 healthy shot of good whisky (I prefer a less peaty variety such as Glenfiddich)
  • About a Tbsp of honey
  • A good squeeze of fresh lemon (a tsp or two)
  • Fresh lemon slice
  • 6 oz boiling water
  • A healthy dash of Drambuie (optional)

Add whisky, honey and lemon juice to a sturdy mug. Pour boiling water over ingredients and stir. Add additional whisky and honey to taste and top with a squeeze from a lemon slice – add lemon slice to mug. Nice options are to add a bit of Drambuie and a finishing orange slice rather than lemon…

~And for a nice bit of accompaniment to your soothing hot toddy…

I Ate the State: Scottish Tour of Destiny – The Spotify Playlist

  • It’s Oh So Quiet – Björk (from Post)
  • Untitled #3 – Samskeyti – Sigur Rós (from album () )
  • Prologue – John Williams (from Harry Potter & the Sorcerer’s Stone Original Motion Picture Soundtrack)
  • You Do Something to Me – Paul Weller (from Stanley Road)
  • Then I Met You – The Proclaimers (from Sunshine on Leith)
  • Un Flambeau, Jeannette Isabelle – Loreena McKennitt (from A Midwinter’s Night Dream)
  • God Rest Ye Merry Gentlemen – Loreena McKennitt (from A Winter Garden – Five Songs for the Season)
  • Standing Stones – Loreena McKennitt (from Parallel Dreams)
  • Standing Stones – Jeremy Soule (from The Elder Scrolls V: Skyrim – Original Game Soundtrack)
  • Stonehenge – Ylvis (from Stonehenge – Single)
  • Who Wants to Live Forever – Queen (from Greatest Hits II)
  • Princes of the Universe – Queen (from A Kind of Magic)
  • Outlander – The Skye Boat Song (Castle Leoch Version) – Bear McCreary feat. Raya Yarbrough (from Outlander: Season 1, Vol. 1 – Original Television Soundtrack)
  • Bonny Portmore – Loreena McKennitt (from The Visit)
  • Hedwig’s Theme – John Williams (from Harry Potter & the Sorcerer’s Stone Original Motion Picture Soundtrack)
  • Holding Back the Years – Simply Red (from Picture Book)
  • Whisper to a Scream (Birds Fly) – The Icicle Works (from The Icicle Works)
  • End of a Century – Blur (from Parklife)
  • Stillness in Time – Jamiroquai (from The Return of the Space Cowboy)
  • Birds – Kate Nash (from Made of Bricks)
  • Wings of Speed – Paul Weller (from Stanley Road)
  • I Miss You – Björk (from Post)
  • Svefn-g-englar – Sigur Rós (from Ágætis byrjun)

CastleDaisies
Lovely daisies in December! (Edinburgh Castle)

More I Ate the State Adventures: