I Ate the State Special Edition – Puerto Vallarta: THE RETURN

¡Hola!

About a year ago, I visited sunny Puerto Vallarta and it was amazing. The landscapes, the culture, the food – everything was spectacular and I was looking forward to returning someday. I wasn’t planning on returning quite this soon, but when the opportunity arose, who was I to ignore it? My friend had been planning on visiting the area with her sister, but since she was unable to get away, I joined the adventure in her place. Sun-soaked beaches, art-packed streets and delicious margaritas? Bring it on!

~ For a look at last year’s Puerto Vallarta trip – my first ever to Mexico – check out the adventures HERE. ~

The View
Not a bad sight to greet the weary traveler…

Getting an incredibly early start on our day of departure (5:45am!) put us in Puerto Vallarta around 2:30pm. It was perfect as it allowed for a solid amount of time to check into our condo and take care of the necessary “errands” for the week. (i.e. Purchasing tequila, snacks, ice, coffee, etc. You know – The necessities.) That said, getting to the airport in time for a 5:45am flight wasn’t conducive to any sort of worthwhile, preparatory rest. I was fighting off yet another cold (still lingering from my recent Scottish holiday adventures) and my two hours of sleep didn’t really cut the mustard. To say I arrived in Puerto Vallarta a little out of sorts was an understatement.

Bloody Mary
The customary Bloody Mary Kick-off!

Lack of sleep is detrimental to many things; cognitive skills and memory being two such items. These abilities are required for activities such as filling out important immigration forms, carrying on intelligible conversations with foreign officials and remembering ATM pin numbers. Luckily, I was able to successfully navigate the first two obstacles, lack of sleep be damned. The swift recollection of my ATM pin, however, was an entirely different and sad matter…

As was the case with our last adventure, we waited to procure our Mexican pesos until arrival in Puerto Vallarta. While waiting in line to use the ATM, patting myself on the back for appearing mostly composed while entering the country, a thought suddenly struck; like a bolt of lightning, in fact. OMG – WHAT IS MY PIN NUMBER??

For the record, I have never forgotten my pin number. Additionally, I know my debit card and several credit card numbers by heart. The card I’d planned on using was the one I use every day – with my pin number. EVERY. DAY. Yet, as I stood there, mind blank and fuzzy, I couldn’t be exactly sure of the precise collection of pin numbers or their order. I totally panicked.

Still panicking, it was my turn at the ATM. I approached, palms sweating (which could’ve just been the crazy, afternoon heat) and pulled out my debit card. My mind was racing with possible number combinations and my hand was attempting to auto-recall the pattern on the number pad. While I was fairly certain I remembered the numbers, I couldn’t be entirely sure. To quote Pee-Wee Herman in Pee-Wee’s Big Adventure, “The mind plays tricks on you – You play tricks back…”

After two failed attempts, I stepped away from the ATM. I knew I only had a limited number of tries before the bank blocked my card, so I thought I’d let things settle for a while. Perhaps a bit of rest, reflection and beach gazing would do the trick. Thankfully, my friend knew I was good for it and since she had apparently remembered her pin number, we were able to pay for the taxi to our condo. We were both convinced I’d be able to sort this out later in the afternoon and off to enjoy the day we went.

After a fairly short cab ride to our condo, La Palapa, in the heart of Old Town Puerto Vallarta (aka: the Romantic Zone), we checked in and surveyed the scene. Last year, we stayed a little closer to the main part of the Malecon, but this time we were more in the center of the Old Town and directly on the expansive Los Muertos Beach. I loved where we stayed last year and would probably choose it for my next stay, but being directly on the beach and all of its activity was really quite lovely. (In all fairness, last year’s spot was also close to the beach, but you had to walk all the way across a 10-foot wide walkway (the Malecon) to get there. The horror.)

After we each claimed our respective rooms in the condo and got the lay of things, we set out to take care of important errands. Since I wasn’t feeling quite up to “adventure mode,” my main plans were to spend time resting and relaxing, living out my foodie dreams and maybe getting in a bit of writing. I’d been envisioning myself, ala Hemingway, enjoying the tranquil grace of the Old Town and soaking up the Arts scene. Throw in a spa treatment or two, some good tequila and a few beautiful sunsets and my time in Puerto Vallarta would be perfect. (All of which gloriously transpired.)

Procuring the essentials is of the utmost importance for a well-enjoyed holiday. A few places to help pave the way towards a relaxing and rejuvenating stay in Puerto Vallarta:

  • First things, first. Tequila is important. Good tequila is even more important. Don’t get caught in the tourist-trap tequila shops on and around the Malecon. Instead, head to Vinos América where the prices and selection are much better – and there’s air-conditioning! We visited the location in the Old Town area. A few times… We also found a pre-mixed tamarind margarita mix which was fantastic! I’ve always loved the flavor of tamarind, but had never tried it in a margarita. I’ve been unable to find it at home, but will be buying some tamarind concentrate in the near future to try and recreate the magic.
First margs!
Tamarind margaritas! Just required a quick trip to the store…
  • Just as good tequila is important, good coffee holds equal status. (In my world, anyway.) There are several coffee shops in the Old Town area, but being able to make a great cup of coffee first thing in the morning is an absolute requirement. Sitting out on the deck, watching the ocean, contemplating life… what a way to start the day. Vallarta Factory not only has delicious food, but they carry a great selection of ground and whole bean coffee, sourced from the local mountains. And if that weren’t enough, the adjacent chocolate shop also carries one of the most delicious creations known to the planet: Caramel-coated, roasted cacao beans. I became hooked on them after my last trip and have been dreaming about them ever since. Suffice to say, I brought back SEVERAL bags…
  • The Farmacia Guadalajara in the Old Town is a large drug store and has everything you need in the way of snacks, sundries and more. I’m still excited about my Frida Kahlo Aqua Net score from last year’s trip…
  • Keeping a bag of ice in the freezer is important for so many hot-weather reasons. OXXO mini-marts are virtually everywhere in Puerto Vallarta and it’s likely one will be located close to wherever you’re staying. Stop by for bagged ice, sodas, chips, ice cream bars and more!
  • Pedicures are good for what ails the tired, airport-dashing feet and a fine addition to any restful vacation. The staff at the Wow! Facial Bar, just up from our condo, was very accommodating and gave me an excellent pedicure. (They had a very interesting facial masque treatment I might try next time…) I did have to return the next day for a touch-up, buy they very graciously took care of everything. They didn’t even want me to pay for the touch-up!
  • If you were stuck with someone reclining their seat in front of you for the entire flight, work out your stress at Spa Holistic. Located directly on the beach/Malecon, their staff is excellent and the prices were amazing. You could also go the cheaper route and hit up the roaming foot massage troop working the beach, but an actual spa massage seemed like a better idea to me…
View from the Rooftop
A pretty amazing view from the rooftop

After stocking up on essentials and enjoying a couple of very tasty tamarind margaritas on the deck, it was time to think about dinner. Located downstairs in our condo and directly on the beach was the famous La Palapa restaurant and bar. Built in 1957 and the first restaurant on the beach, La Palapa is still owned by the same family and remains an icon in the Romantic Zone. If you’re looking for fancier dining, directly on the beach, check out the scene at La Palapa. They offer breakfast, lunch and dinner in their dining room or directly on the beach in their private seating area. They also host weddings and events and we watched them set up at least two beach weddings during our stay. Granted, there were only a few nights with sunsets, but the weather cooperated during the ceremonies and no one was rained out. Dreamy.

Since we weren’t feeling terribly fancy after our long travel day and running of errands, we decided to keep it casual that first night. (And most nights thereafter) Since it was Restaurant Week during our visit, we’d put together a list of potential eateries to investigate. (Note: Restaurant week is always longer than a week and this year ran from May 15th thru June 10th) Many cities feature restaurant weeks, but if you haven’t had the opportunity to participate, they’re a great way to enjoy pricier restaurants for more a reasonable cost. They usually feature a few prix fixe meals which offer a good overview of their full menu. On the list was Joe Jack’s Fish Shack, located a few blocks from our condo. Their menu looked tasty and it was a short walk for weary travelers… Perfect combo! The even bigger bonus was just how tasty the menu was. Everything we tried was delicious. The passion fruit margaritas were amazing and I would eat the Shrimp and Avocado Tostadas Louie every day of my life. Every day! We definitely returned for more during our stay…

There are so many stellar restaurants to try in Puerto Vallarta. The list is impressive and you’d need a very long stay to make your way through it, but it sure would be a delicious journey. We didn’t visit nearly as many spots as I’d hoped, but we made a noble effort. I guess the eyes of vacation planning are sometimes bigger than the stomach of time…

Here’s a short list of the places we visited and hoped to visit on this adventure. I suppose the good thing about not hitting every spot is having something to look forward to on the next trip! Because there will definitely be another trip…

  • We visited renowned chef, Thierry Blouet’s Café des Artistes during our stay and it was spectacular. The atmosphere and service were excellent – minus a small banana allergy mix-up – and the food was truly delicious. Their famous Cream of Prawn and Pumpkin soup (ladled from a carved out pumpkin) was fantastic and the ‘Catch of the Day’ was wonderful. (And I am kicking myself for not writing down the fish. It was delicate, white, flaky… Sigh…) And the desserts – Yowsa!
  • Directly next door to La Palapa, you’ll find Si Senor Beach. Quite handy to have great dining options just downstairs. The regular menu was somewhat pricey, but we opted for the Restaurant Week selections and weren’t disappointed. Interestingly, the margaritas we ordered ending up being the same price as our entire meal! (Pro tip: Don’t worry about getting the fancy tequila unless you’re going to sip it. Mid-shelf tequila for margaritas is absolutely acceptable.)
  • Situated on the Cuale River and featuring regular Jazz shows, Le Bistro has been high on my list on both visits – and it remains! They serve breakfast, lunch and dinner and feature fresh seafood along with pasta and pizza on their dinner menu.
Le Bistro Cafe
Lovely riverside dining at Le Bistro Cafe
  • Appropriately perched on a cliff overlooking the ocean, Le Kliff features an amazing menu and is one of Puerto Vallarta’s most exclusive dining locales. While we didn’t get to visit on this excursion, my friend has dined there on past visits and speaks very highly of the experience.
  • Di Vino Dante features local cuisine with Mexican wine pairings. Born and raised in Puerto Vallarta, the owner was studying Fine Art in Vancouver B.C. when she also began studying wine. She returned home to showcase her knowledge and has been featuring Mexican and Latin American wines and cuisine at her intimate wine bar in the Old Town.
  • Nicksan features the very cool fusion of Mexican and Japanese cuisine. Sashimi tostadas? They’ve got ‘em! Chiles stuffed with spicy crab and sesame sauce? Bring it on!!
  • Renowned local chef, Joel Ornelas, whose resume includes apprenticeships at Café des Artistes and Le Bistro as well as several well-reviewed European restaurants, puts his own touch on the classics at Tintoque. Their “Creative Menu” features fresh seafood and local produce and changes daily. Located at Vallarta Marina, near the Hotel Zone.
  • Tucked in along a side street near the Malecon, Florios specializes in a tasty blend of Italian and Argentinian inspired cuisines. Pasta and meat – together forever!
Florios
Italian and Argentinian dining at Florios near the Malecon
  • La Bodeguita del Medio was very crowded when we stopped by, but we stood outside and listened to the live Cuban music and I promised myself to try again next time. The Puerto Vallarta location is an offshoot of the same club Hemingway spent so much time at in Havana. (Which is still there!) Located at the heart of the Malecon.
  • Barcelona Tapas was on our list as my friend had visited before and raved about it. I love a good tapas. Who doesn’t?? We didn’t make it there together, but I will definitely be stopping in on my next visit.
  • Jorge’s Hideaway Shrimp Shack is as advertised, most definitely “hidden.” Tucked back into an Old Town neighborhood, you could easily mistake it for a small home. (Which it used to be!) My friend was on a quest for the best coconut shrimp and Jorge’s did not disappoint. Everything we had was fresh and delicious and I’ll definitely return on my next visit.
  • We were feeling peckish after a hot day of walking around and arrived a little early for dinner hours at The Swedes Bar & Bistro. They were very accommodating, however, and we ended up with the whole place to ourselves for dinner! Featuring local ingredients prepared with a European flare, everything we tried was delicious. The lobster bisque was a standout highlight for me. YUM!
  • Tucked into a tiny spot in the Old Town, Tacos Revolucion serves delicious tacos of all varieties and absolutely delicious tortas. They also have “Volcanoes” and “Cakes” – both savory dishes – which I will absolutely be trying on my next visit. I also didn’t get to try the “Meat in Your Juice,” which is described as Beef cooked in its juice with bacon, green sauce, scallion, beans from the pot and handmade tortillas. Guadalajara style. WHAT??? #Heavenly
Tacos Revolucion
I was pretty much full after the guacamole…

And just a few more places that will remain on my list until next visit:

  • Blanca Blue – Contemporary Mexican cuisine and stunning ocean views. Located at the Garza Blanca Preserve Resort and Spa.
  • El Arrayan – Traditional and contemporary Mexican cuisine in the heart of the Malecon scene.
  • El Dorado­ – Located directly on the beach in the Old Town/Romantic Zone area, featuring modern Mexican cuisine.
  • Located at the Grand Miramar resort with a striking, panoramic view of the city, Eugenia features local seafood and produce in an upscale presentation.
  • Perched high in the hills above the Old Town, Hacienda San Angel Gourmet features elevated Mexican cuisine and an amazing view. It is also high on my list to actually stay in one of the dreamy suites at Hacienda San Angel, once owned by Richard Burton. (Note: Due to kitchen maintenance, there is no dinner service for August and September, 2019)
  • Meridia Grill features contemporary Mexican cuisine in the heart of traditional Old Town. Duck tacos!
  • I attempted to visit the trendy La Romantica Churros & Café Bar a couple of times during my visit. It was right around the corner from the condo and featured delicious churros, Mexican hot chocolate and coffee. What more could a girl need? Sadly, on the first attempt, they weren’t opening for another hour and on the second try, they were closed for a two-week vacation! Alas, it just wasn’t in the cards and I’ll have to hit them up next time. If I have to camp out in front, I will…
Cafe des Artistes
Sometimes you just need to get fancy…

And not to be forgotten, here are a few favorites from my last Puerto Vallarta visit:

  • Featuring family recipes, El Mole de Jovita is a must-stop if you’re looking for the rich, addictive flavors of authentic mole. My favorites were the Mole Jovita, pumpkin and green moles. I’ll be back!
  • Pancho’s Takos is amazing. Serving slow-roasted meats, prepared on flame-licked spits, Pancho’s is a must for any taco lover. And don’t forget to add their spectacular sauces and accompaniments to your meal. (Pro tip: Get there early. The line at Pancho’s gets crazy long in the evening!)
  • For the record, I still can’t believe I didn’t make it to Mariscos Cisneros on this trip. This place is delicious and I can’t count the number of times I’ve daydreamed of their fish tacos and deep-fried, cheese-stuffed jalapenos. Whhhyyyyy???

In keeping with one of my major vacation objectives, alarm clocks had NO place in my morning and getting up when I felt like getting up was paramount. Enjoying coffee on the deck, watching the day come alive at the Pier at Los Muertos and knowing I had many more days of this was a completely sublime feeling. Most of the mornings during our stay were overcast, but as I make my home in Seattle, what’s a little cloud cover? Good coffee and knowing I have no commitments for the day is more than enough to make me shout a very happy GOOD MORNING to the world. To make things even more enjoyable, my wacky lovely friend decided she didn’t want the room with the amazing ocean view – complete with the soothing sound of waves. I guess the waves don’t lull everyone to sleep like they do me… I’ll take that ocean view room – no problem! Add in that I was able to eventually work out the forgotten PIN situation and my vacation mode officially set in. (Granted, it required a few long phone calls to my bank and a bit of logistical finagling, but whatever – cold hard cash was mine to spend! And a hearty thanks to my travel buddy for humoring the situation and helping out…)

My Yacht
Now that I had my PIN sorted out, I could buy that yacht…

I don’t often have the chance to enjoy a leisurely breakfast, but vacation is the perfect time to live out such fantasies. There are so many fabulous breakfast and brunch spots in Puerto Vallarta, it was hard to decide where to start the day. It’s a rough job, but someone’s gotta do it. You’re welcome. A few of the delicious early morning (more like noonish) spots we hit up:

  • The aforementioned Vallarta Factory was our first stop on the vacation breakfast train. I was excited to return and had vowed to try something new on this visit, but I failed. The menu is great, but the Poblano omelet I had on the last trip was loudly calling my name – and I listened. SO good!
  • The Pancake House is pretty spectacular and they do indeed serve delicious pancakes and French toast. That said, their Chilaquiles with Verde sauce was out of this world! We came back a couple times during our stay.
  • Barra Light offers delicious breakfast and lunch dishes featuring organic and locally sourced ingredients – and some pretty great cappuccinos. As they were located just around the corner from our condo, we stopped in quite a few times for both breakfast and lunch.
  • Salud Superfood is a standout in the area for organic and vegetarian dishes. We visited on our last trip and the food was excellent. I will be back on my next visit as well!
  • Café San Angel was also a feature of my last visit, but as their migas were so delicious, there was no way I was missing a repeat engagement. They didn’t fail to impress and maybe next time I’ll branch out and try something new. Maybe.
  • Located a block off the Malecon, the Coexist Bistro was the last stop on our vacation breakfast train and positively delicious – And air-conditioned! Set on the ground floor of the very cool Hotel Rio, the dishes were imaginative and well-prepared. I’ll definitely be hitting them up on my next visit. Also, did I mention they have air-conditioning?? #Luxurious

On my last visit, I was so impressed and inspired by the amazing artwork and music all around the city and vowed to more deeply experience the scene during this stay. Every day, after fortifying ourselves with a delicious breakfast, we wandered around, taking it all in, experiencing the vibrancy of the city. Everywhere we looked were beautifully handcrafted arts and crafts and everywhere we listened, strains of live music. It was a feast for the eyes, ears and soul, to be sure. I can’t imagine the creative spirit ever at a loss for inspiration in this city.

The list of artistic possibilities in Puerto Vallarta is expansive and full of variety. What I’ve experienced thus far is just a small cross-section of what can be found. I look forward to continuing my artistic adventures on future trips. In the meantime, a few of the spots we were able to enjoy on this visit:

  • My friend introduced me to Enrique on our last visit and I was happy to again visit him at the shop he manages, Muy Guapo. Located in the Old Town, Muy Guapo features unique antiques and quirky, funky art and jewelry from around Mexico. Enrique is also a fantastic artist and occasionally has some of his own work at the shop.
  • Enrique’s sister, Marisa, is also an artist and regularly displays her paintings at the Cuale Island Flea Market. She features lovely scenes of local life and I was happy to return home with a couple of her miniatures featuring nearby Yelapa. (Marisa’s stall is located in the shade of the Insurgentes Street Bridge pedestrian underpass) Walking along the peaceful Cuale River and winding in and out of the artist stalls and banyan trees is an excellent way to spend the afternoon.
  • My friend was trying to track down a local marionette artist while we were in town, but was sadly unsuccessful. We were, however, able to successfully add to our glassware collections with a stop at Mundo de Cristal in the Old Town. They only had a few pieces left of the pattern I’d brought back on my last trip, but I snatched them up and my collection grows. I can now serve even more tamarind margaritas at my next party!
Tequila and Glasses
You can’t bring back glasses without something to put in them! I’m not a monster.
  • We also returned to spectacular tile and ceramics shop, Mundo de Azulejos in the Old Town. My friend wanted to custom order an address plaque for her home. Since her home is blue, she decided on “La Casa Azul” with lettering appropriately in blue. Unfortunately, after they fired the plaque, the paint looked green. Something on the list for her next visit to Puerto Vallarta, I guess…
  • On my last visit, I brought back a beautiful hand-blown glass miniature of my bass guitar. On this visit, we again hit up Carlos Rosas with a few more requests. Additionally, due to a freak dusting accident, the neck of my bass broke! (Broken bass necks are actually a bit of a personal curse. Two actual bass necks and now a glass one… Eeesh.) Through our email communications and pictures being sent, Carlos came up with amazing renditions of both mine and my friend’s dogs as well as a new rendition of my bass and the most spectacular Hammond organ piece for my friend, Joe’s birthday. And he very kindly fixed my broken bass, which I’d brought along just in case it was repairable… Now I have a backup! Carlos is no longer located in the Old Town and now sets up shop on Wednesdays near the cruise ship harbor with many of the local artists. (Our friend, Marisa included.) Definitely make the effort to find his booth!
  • On my last visit, I found a couple of musical notes created in the Huichol tradition. I love them and was hoping to find a couple more, but none of the shops I investigated had them. Luckily, my friend happened upon Colores Magicos in her own shopping excursions and got their email for me. Through a series of emails and a visit to the shop, they graciously arranged for a local artist to make me a couple of notes during my stay. Cool!! I left it up to the artist to come up with the designs and I picked them up on my last day in town. (After the artist raced into town to get them to me before I left!) I love them! If you stop by, ask for Carlos or Olga and tell them the lady with the musical notes sent you – they’re awesome!
Musical Notes
Two new notes to add to my song!
  • I have a weakness for chunky rings and found the most beautiful larimar ring at the Cassandra Shaw gallery in the Old Town. She is also a painter and animal lover and features many of her paintings in the shop. I love the llama!
  • As my friends are aware (especially those who’ve helped me pack to move), I have a nerdy weakness for glassware, mugs, teacups, shot glasses, etc. If you can drink out of it, I probably have one. On a related note, I’m particularly fond of the You Are Here and Been There series from Starbucks. I have several from around the world and now I have one from Puerto Vallarta. Hooray!
Been There Series
My morning joe with scenes from PV!
  • There is much music to be found around the city. Live music in restaurants and theatres, dance music in the Malecon and Old Town night clubs and scores of roaming musicians around town and on the Malecon. Stop and listen, go inside and enjoy a set – Take in all the amazing sounds the city has to offer. And keep an eye out for seasoned bassists roaming the beach, waiting to play you a tune…

You never know what you’re going to find or what amazing piece of art will call to you as you wander the cobblestone streets and artist stalls along the Cuale. Allow plenty of time to investigate the shops and talk to the artists – and be sure to stay hydrated. There’s nothing wrong with soaking in the sun for a couple hours and returning to the comfort of an air-conditioned hotel room to cool off and get rejuvenated. Of course, it’s also a good idea to throw in a couple of margaritas on the deck and maybe a bit of homemade guacamole, pico de gallo and chips… That’s just good sense. And then resume your meandering, refueled and ready to explore!

When not wandering aimlessly around town, there are many places to add to your sightseeing list. Stick around Puerto Vallarta proper or hop on a tour bus or water taxi to the outlying areas of the city. There are so many amazing places to see and things to do. A mere week or so isn’t nearly enough, but you’ll have an excellent excuse to come back soon. Perhaps the following year! Some of my favorite places to visit so far:

  • Last visit, we took a water taxi from the Pier at Los Muertos to visit the neighboring village of Yelapa. We’d planned on making another trip, but as the weather was sometimes a bit grey and misty, we decided against a choppy boat ride. I fell in love with Yelapa and would love to return for a stay in the sleepy coastal burb, but will have to wait until next time. The water taxis also stop at other villages along the way and I plan to investigate those on my next journey as well.
  • On the way to Yelapa, look out for the rocky arches at Los Arcos Marine Park. I’d love to do some snorkeling in the area and get closer to the arches. Next time!
  • If you’d like to admire the beautiful architecture of Puerto Vallarta’s local parishes, two beautiful examples to seek out while walking around the Malecon are the Parish of Our Lady of Guadalupe and a little further down, the Church of Our Lady of the Refuge. Both hold regular services and are open to visit during the day.
  • While wandering around the banyan lined banks of the Cuale, we happened upon the Cuale Cultural Center. A beautiful group of buildings with lovely landscaping and scenery, it serves as a center for all manner of Arts workshops and hosts showings and performances. There was nothing going on the day we visited, but I look forward to checking out the scene on future visits. (Note: When we visited the area, it looked like they were still in operation, but their website doesn’t look current. I hope they’re still holding events…)
  • There are many outdoor markets selling a variety of food and goods running throughout the year and all around town. As we did last year, one of the first places we hit up was the Mercado Emiliano Zapata produce stand were we bought fresh vegetables, dried hibiscus flowers, hot sauces and more. (Pro tip: Wash all of the produce off as soon as you bring it back to wherever you’re staying. If you don’t, you’re likely to wake up to an army of tiny gnats marching around your counter-tops. Very common, but easily addressed by a thorough washing.)
  • There are a couple other outdoor markets we attempted to visit, but were sad to learn were closed for the season. The Olas Atlas Farmers Market, also known as the Old Farmers Market is open on Saturdays from November through April and is very worth getting up early to investigate. (9:30am to 2pm)
  • Since we were unable to visit the Saturday market in the Old Town, we decide to walk over to the Saturday Market. Maybe walking on a sweltering hot day wasn’t the greatest of plans as it ended up being closer to the Hotel Zone and what felt like 327 miles away. At least. That said, it was a very interesting walk through the local neighborhoods and we ended up getting to experience a very local market scene. Clothing, both new and used, tools, produce, baked goods, little taco stands – you name it, it was at the market. However, as interesting as it was to walk through the neighborhoods, it was just as interesting to take an air-conditioned cab ride back to the Old Town. But for the record, I got in A LOT of steps that day on the ol’ Fitbit – and probably sweated out a few pounds on top of it. SCORE!
Saturday Market
A true local market – and a long walk from the Old Town!

One of the things we’d been planning on checking out were the local foodie tours and maybe a tequila tour or two. However, since we were both feeling pretty exhausted from all that wandering around town and walking on the beaches… and making deck margaritas… it never really worked out. Oops. That said, I am confident I’ll be returning soon and it gives me more foodie adventures to look forward to in the future. Some of the tours that intrigued me:

There is no one way to visit or enjoy Puerto Vallarta. Lounge on the beach every day and make homemade guacamole and pico de gallo to enjoy with scratch margaritas on your deck. Eat at all the amazing restaurants and imbibe on elaborate craft cocktails. Hit up the night clubs and late-night Malecon scene and dance into the night. Take a water taxi to the tiny inlets outside of the city and enjoy a burro ride around the village. Get daring and go diving – either in the sea or sky! (Well, parasailing anyway…) Write, dream, contemplate the world and what you can do to make it better… There are so many amazing adventures to be experienced in this beautiful city.

Whenever I think of Puerto Vallarta, I recall the spectacular sunsets, the leisurely walks on the beach, the charm of watching the nightly dinner service under the lantern-lit beach umbrellas and the absolute come-as-you-are ease of the Old Town. (Unless it’s Café Des Artistes or one of the upscale hotels, where I recommend kicking it up a fancy notch…) In the years to come, I will always keep a bit of Puerto Vallarta warmth and sunshine tucked away to pull out on those grey Seattle days. This city is now a part of my soul and I hope to experience many more beautiful moments within its borders, whether experienced a year from now or ten.

In closing, if you’re thinking of visiting Mexico, I highly recommend checking out this absolutely lovely city. It’s full of beauty, the locals are welcoming, the Arts scene is rich and vibrant – and there are an unbelievable bounty of tastes, sounds and experiences to sample. It’s a paradise on so many levels! Hey, and no one got pooped on by a Magnificent Frigatebird this time, so that was an extra vacation win!

Until next time – Eat the state!

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I Ate the State SPECIAL EDITION: Puerto Vallarta – The Return! Click HERE to check out the Spotify playlist.

  • Escape (The Pina Colada Song) – Rupert Holmes (from Partners in Crime)
  • Steal Away – Robbie Dupree (from Robbie Dupree)
  • Tequila Sunrise – Eagles (from Desperado)
  • Batida Diferente – Herbie Mann (from Latin Forever)
  • A Horse with No Name – America (from America)
  • Do It Again – Steely Dan (from Can’t Buy A Thrill)
  • Coconut – Harry Nilsson (from Nilsson Schmilsson)
  • Mambo Sangria – Caj Tjader (from Too Late Now)
  • Sicily – Chick Corea (from Friends)
  • Biggest Part of Me – Ambrosia (from One Eighty)
  • The Boys of Summer – Don Henley (from Building the Perfect Beast)
  • Hold the Line – Toto (from Toto)
  • Love Will Find A Way – Pablo Cruise (from Worlds Away)
  • Danza de Gardenias – Natalia Lafourcade (from Danza de Gardenias)
  • Dreamers – Judy Collins (from Dreamers)
  • Águas de Março – Antônio Carlos Jobim (from Antônio Carlos Jobim: Finest Hour)
  • Come Sail Away – Styx (from The Grand Illusion)
  • Still the One – Orleans (from Waking and Dreaming)
  • Sailing – Christopher Cross (from Christopher Cross)
  • Corcovado – Quiet Nights of Quiet Stars – Stan Getz, João Gilberto (from Getz/Gilberto)
  • Drift Away – Dobie Gray (from Dobie Gray – His Very Best)
  • Babylon Sisters – Steely Dan (from Gaucho)
  • Samba De Orfeu – Cal Tjader (from Soul Sauce)
  • Ride Like the Wind – Christopher Cross (from Christopher Cross)
  • Reelin’ in the Years – Steely Dan (from Can’t Buy A Thrill)

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Check out more I Ate the State Adventures:

I Ate the State – Special Edition: SCOTLAND – Part I (w/special guests – London & Reykjavik)

As far back as I can remember, I’ve had a wanderlust. Whether as a child sneaking off to investigate the neighborhood or as a road-tripping adult discovering the next state over, exploring has long been core to my identity. I’ve always loved the sense of home and belonging, but it seemed so much more poignant upon returning from an adventure. I was excited to be home with family, but equally excited to share stories of the new friends and family I’d met along the way. Those feelings were exponentially intensified when I took my first trip abroad. The world suddenly became very large and very small, all at the same time and I was amazed at how connected I felt to people and places on the other side of the planet. The idea firmly took root that we all have many ‘homes’ and ‘families’ – all over the world. There was simply no turning back from the amazing sense of scope and wonder I had experienced.

I’ve been completely changed and moved by chance encounters with strangers over the years – some of whom I’d never see again and some who have now become dear friends and family. If only one of my tales has moved someone I’ve met along the way and inspired their own sense of wanderlust or of belonging on the other side of the world, I will count myself lucky among storytellers.

And on that note, a few tales from my most recent adventure abroad…

Morning Glow
A dreamy morning drive to to Loch Ness

As my friend Kristen and I embarked upon what we had dubbed our Scottish Tour of Destiny, I was a few days into a nasty cold, winter travel conditions were in effect, there were only a few hours of light per day in the areas we were headed and we’d planned an action-packed itinerary with multiple flights to make it work… What could possibly go wrong? (Which would soon become the catchphrase of the journey…) Throw in driving on the wrong side of the road (and the wrong side of the car) through torrential rain and gale-force winds and we had ourselves an epic adventure in the making.

We’d taken advantage of an airfare sale through Icelandair earlier in the year, so our outbound and return flights included layovers in Reykjavik. (I’ve always wanted to visit Iceland and why not do it for free!) On the day of our departure, we got to the airport in plenty of time, security was relatively easy-going and we had ample time to relax before boarding our flight to Reykjavik. But then, just as we were to begin boarding, it was announced we’d be departing FOUR hours late as the AC wasn’t working on the plane and they’d have to find us a new one.  This also meant we’d be missing our connecting flight to London and likely our entire first day in London. (Pro tip: Don’t plan anything for the first 36 hours of a trip that requires advance-purchase tickets. We almost opted to do the Harry Potter lot tour our first day and are SO glad we didn’t!)

While we lingered at our home airport, stretching out the $15 food vouchers the airline had given us, we chatted with fellow passengers and generally passed the time. It’s fascinating, the stories you’ll hear when randomly visiting with strangers. There were also a few passengers who were definitely of the ‘glass half empty (if that)’ variety and they had no trouble dragging everyone else into their world. Never mind we were all in the same boat, so to speak. (Insert eye roll *here*) Just be cool. Harassing the airline desk attendants isn’t going to get you there any faster… We did, however, meet some pretty cool people and make a friend or two along the way.

First Meal
Not quite Scottish fare, but we were stuck at our home airport for a bit…

One woman in particular, Karen, was on the way to help her son move to Finland. She was transporting a rather large load of belongings for him and was worried the luggage wouldn’t follow on her new route. We were all being placed on new connections out of Reykjavik, but the airline wasn’t updating anyone until we arrived in Iceland – and the way the flights were looking, it seemed like we’d be staying the night in Reykjavik while things were sorted. It all felt like a pretty nebulous crap-shoot…To make matters worse for Karen, she didn’t have a cell phone and had packed her list of phone numbers in what was supposed to be her carry-on. Which they annoyingly made her check at the gate… (Something similar happened to Kristen and our foolproof, don’t-have-to-worry-about-checked-luggage-not-making-the short-connection plan was thwarted. Airlines and their shrinking carry-on allowances… Gah!)

Because Karen had no phone or phone numbers, she was unable to alert her son to her travel changes and he would likely be very worried. She did, however, know the email address of her other son. I used my phone to email him – hoping he wouldn’t dismiss the message as spam – and alert him to the changes. He, in turn, got a hold of his brother, gave him the scoop and got back to me. Technology! When we finally arrived in Reykjavik, I let Karen borrow my phone to call her son – crisis averted and all was well.

I’ve definitely benefited from the kindness of strangers on my own journeys and it was nice to pay it forward this time. Because we’d chosen to strike up a random conversation and get to know a stranger, we were all able to pass the time more enjoyably, everyone got where they needed to go (and with luggage!) and we made a new friend. One with whom I ended up having much in common! I also have family in Finland, we both share a lifelong wanderlust and have a knack for meeting people along the way. You just never know when you’re going to make a new friend. (Her seat was even next to Kristen on the flight – kismet!)

After we finally boarded our flight, we were on our way to snowy Iceland. It was stormy, but things were off to a decent start when all of the sudden the turbulence began. I’m a pretty mellow flier, but this was turbulence the likes of which I’ve rarely experienced – some of the worst ever, in fact. (I overheard a flight attendant saying it was the worst she’d experienced in 24 years.) The oxygen didn’t deploy, but people were actually screaming – and I did find myself thinking, “Wow – is this how it’s going to end??” (We also weren’t even out of Washington State yet!) Things did eventually settle down, but it was one of those experiences where you make fast friends with the strangers next to you… Even more friends along the way! It may have also lead to a few glasses of wine during the flight… Heh.

While we didn’t end up staying the night in Reykjavik, we did spend an entire morning and afternoon hanging out at the airport waiting for our rescheduled connection. (The sun rose at 11am and set around 3pm!) Icelandair also gave us rather large vouchers to spend on food, so we entertained ourselves by sampling Icelandic fare and doing some shopping. The main part of the airport is quite modern and open and it was actually enjoyable to hang out and explore. The international departure section of the airport, however, was a long, narrow gauntlet of crowded confusion. I even had the “pleasure” of running through the airport, dodging other travelers as I attempted to get to my departure gate. (They only made ONE announcement and it happened to be the “final” one. My sickly lungs were not happy with the situation…) Once we made it onto our London connection, everything smoothed out. The flight was calm and aside from the one hour circle-tour we were forced to endure over Heathrow, we finally touched down in merry old England.

With the craziness of our journey to London finally at an end, we arranged an Uber to our first night of lodging. (Uber is now in most of the major UK cities) As it was now dark and later in the evening, it was a little tricky finding our way down to the 100-year old Danish fishing barge situated on the shores of the River Thames. With a little help from a local shopkeeper, we found our way and were greeted by our lovely hosts. You never know what gems you’re going to find on Airbnb and this was definitely one of them. Granted, for someone getting sicker by the hour, sleeping on a drafty, vintage barge might not have been the best laid plan. However, for sheer uniqueness, it was worth it and I’m glad we braved the cold. Additionally, our hosts were incredibly kind and very understanding about our late arrival and gave us several great tips about getting around London. It was also pretty spectacular to wake up to a brilliantly sunny morning on the Thames.

As we’d missed our first day in London, we were forced to pare down our sightseeing before heading on to Edinburgh that afternoon. I’ve had the pleasure of visiting London several times in the past, so it wasn’t a total tragedy – and we knew we’d have another partial day at the end of the trip. That said, we still wanted to make the most of the few hours we had and tried to pack in as much as possible. After a hot cup of tea and a round of DayQuil, I was ready to go!

Since we’d booked our train to Edinburgh out of London Kings Cross, we took the Tube over from our spot on the Thames. Once at Kings Cross, we located the Excess Baggage shop to temporarily stow our luggage (I love this service!) and immediately opted to check out the Harry Potter shop at Platform 9 ¾ . I’m not gonna lie – I took a few dorky pics of the Platform 9 ¾ wall. Being a bit of a Harry Potter fan girl, it was tough to make it out of the shop without making major purchases. However, since we knew we’d be hitting up the mother-lode Harry Potter studio lot tour later on our trip, we muddled through.

Pro Tip: Arrange your long distance UK train trips ahead of time using the Trainline app or website. Trainline is indispensable! Also invest in an Oyster Card once you get to London. You can find card dispensing machines in all major Tube stations. Another helpful travel aide is the City Mapper Transit Navigation app. It’s great for giving you the quickest route and transportation type to get where you’re going.  (Works in many major cities around the world!)

Next on the agenda was to grab a quick lunch while cramming in as much sightseeing as possible. We made a quick pit stop at the *Pret A Manger shop at Kings Cross, but our main foodie pilgrimage was a visit to one of my favorite places on the planet, Fortnum and Mason. (Supplying London with delicious wares since 1707!) I stop in every time I visit London and it’s near impossible to leave the store without a big basket of delectable goods. Sadly, as we were only on Day 2 of our journey and had very limited luggage space, I had to greatly restrain my purchasing. However, I did stock up for the train ride with a Scotch egg, shrimp sandwich, dreamy Turkish Delight and assorted baked goods from their downstairs deli counters. For the record, I don’t remotely care how crass I looked as I shoved that Scotch egg down my gullet while standing outside the store. Fancy store entry or not – that Scotch egg needed to be eaten and STAT. It was DELICIOUS.

* London has no shortage of delicious, grab-and-go food options, but the main train and tube stations are a fine place to grab tasty sustenance on the run. Not to mention, a great place to check out trendy shops, bookstore, pharmacies, etc. Very convenient!

After fueling up on Scotch eggs and a fresh round of DayQuil, we popped in next door to Hatchard’s bookshop. (Their nearby Piccadilly location is London’s oldest bookshop, c. 1787) Aside from taking in the multi-floor shop, Kristen was also on the hunt for an Edinburgh “pop-up” map and they had an extensive map and travel guide section. I was also hoping to stop in at The Royal Academy of Arts, located just across the way from Fortnum & Mason, but we were running short on time and needed to get back to Kings Cross. I’ve visited the Royal Academy on past adventures, but never tire of taking in the amazing displays. Also not to be missed in the immediate vicinity is the tourist spectacle that is Piccadilly Circus. Jumbotron advertisement screens, crazy traffic, double-decker buses – Take it all in!

Back at Kings Cross, while waiting for our train to begin boarding, we met a little boy and his somewhat weary grandmother. Not only was he incredibly chatty and animated, he took it upon himself to entertain us with several tunes from his school’s recent Christmas pageant. Sort of felt like a scene out of Love Actually… It was a fairly amusing way to pass the time and a nice accompaniment to contemplating all the things I love about London and places I’ve visited on past adventures.

(Note: This is but a tiny tasting. I’m pretty sure you could live a lifetime in London and never see it all!)

  • National Gallery – Located in Trafalgar Square. Hands down, a must visit gallery. Rubens, Titian, Cezanne, Seurat, Monet, Van Gogh, Rembrandt, Gainsborough, Michelangelo, Raphael, da Vinci, Botticelli – COME ON!!!
  • National Portrait Gallery – Also near Trafalgar Square and not to be missed!
  • The Regents Park and Primrose Hill – I used to stay at the nearby International Students House during my earlier visits to London and spent a lot of time at Regents Park. It’s lovely and also home to the London Zoo and the Open Air Theatre. (Shakespeare in the park – and more!) Also close to Regents Park is Baker Street and the Sherlock Holmes Museum (221b) and the original Madame Tussauds. (c. 1884)
  • Hyde Park – A London classic. You can’t go wrong with a visit to Hyde Park. It’s beautiful, expansive and always entertaining. The willow trees and swans of The Serpentine are stunning, the Rose Garden absolutely beautiful and Speaker’s Corner is never dull.
  • Greenwich Park (UNESCO World Heritage Site) – Stand on the Prime Meridian and experience the impetus of modern measurement. (Greenwich Mean Time has been the standard of timekeeping since 1884) Pop into the Royal Observatory (they offer classes) and check out the beauty of the Cosmos at the London Planetarium. The famous Cutty Sark is also “harbored” at the park.
  • Tower of London (UNESCO World Heritage Site) – The storied palace grounds, the imposing Tower of London ravens, the haunted chambers, the famous prisoners, the daunting fortress walls, the expansive armory, the British crown jewels – An amazing display of history and intrigue to explore!
  • Harrods – Quintessential shopping in the heart of London. Spectacle, excess, delicious treats, delectable dining, things you could never afford – all on 7 floors, in 330 departments!! Why not??
  • Marks and Spencer – Check out the Oxford Street flagship store for a bit of classic British shopping. I swear by their tights and their knickers are ever the UK favourite. I’m also fond of grocery shopping in their food section.
  • The British Museum – One of the most amazing museums of ALL TIME. I can’t say enough. Go there!! See statues from the Parthenon, take in the amazing Egyptian wing – marvel at the Rosetta Stone! Honestly. Don’t miss it!
  • Notting Hill – Ridiculously charming, funky and entertaining London neighborhood w/colorful houses, cool shops and clubs and meandering roads. Check out Portobello Road on Fridays and Saturdays for the full market experience, complete with amazing antique vendors. The spectacular Natural History Museum is nearby and a must-see for any lover of epic fossils – dinosaurs and more!
  • Buckingham Palace – For all things royal. Imagine yourself as an extra in The Crown or Victoria and channel the long history of the English / British monarchy. (Not all having taken place at Buckingham Palace, of course)
  • Westminster Abbey (UNESCO World Heritage Site) – Over 1000 years of history, the abbey is home to all British coronations since 1066 and has played host to a bevy of weddings, funerals and epic moments in world history.
  • Kensington Palace is one of my favorite places to visit in London. Former home of Princess Diana and present home to her sons and their families, it is also home to the lovely Orangery at Kensington Gardens and Kensington Gardens, If you’re in need of a traditional high tea experience, the Kensington Palace Pavilion and Tea Room is the only place you can have traditional afternoon tea on royal palace grounds.
  • Houses of Parliament – The counterpart to the royal set, the stunning Houses of Parliament with its iconic Big Ben is the governing arm of modern Britain and its constitutes. (Note: Big Ben is currently undergoing a 4 year renovation as of 2017, including the Elizabeth Tower / Great Bell (Big Ben) and Great Clock)
  • In addition to the incredibly convenient and extensive London Tube, take a Cruise on the Thames to see London from a different angle – or hop on/hop off one of the classic double-decker bus tours for a best-of-London extravaganza. There are so many ways to see and enjoy London!

Since we were leaving later in the afternoon, there wasn’t much scenery to enjoy along the way to Edinburgh. Winter nights fall quickly and most of the journey was spent simultaneously nodding off to NyQuil and defending my personal space from the guy next to me. I’ve taken this journey before and there’s nothing like rolling into Edinburgh and getting your first glimpse of the castle on the hill. This time, however, the scene was dark and groggy as we pulled into Waverly Station, located in the heart of Edinburgh and situated between the Old Town and New Town. (Both included as a UNESCO World Heritage Site)

Upon disembarking from the train, we were hit with just how chilly it was that evening. I’m normally a giant fan of frigid temps (that aforementioned Finnish heritage), but this was some serious, countenance-challenging cold. Granted, I’m sure my worsening sickness (and all it was turning into) was partially to blame for my lack of tolerance, but the cold seemed to reach directly into my bones and squeeze. Our Airbnb wasn’t too far away, so grabbing a taxi seemed silly, but I’ll fully admit to lamenting each step as we slogged our way through the cold. However, since we were surrounded by the stunning winter beauty of Old Town Edinburgh, I was absolutely willing to power through.

For the record, Edinburgh is one of my favorite places in the entire world. I first visited Scotland in 1995 with the intent of working in Edinburgh as part of a university work-study program. (I ended up at a little inn in the Northern Highlands, but more on that later) As I mentioned earlier, there is nothing like rolling into Edinburgh on a sunny day and catching that first glimpse of Edinburgh Castle. I immediately fell in love with the city and those feelings have never since waned. Cold, hot, sunny, stormy – Any time of the year, Edinburgh is one of the most amazing, magical and intriguing places to be found. Adding it’s one of the most artist-friendly cities in the world and deemed one of Europe’s most haunted locales assures there will never be a dull day in Edinburgh.

Piper
Lone piper on the Royal Mile (Photo credit: K. Spoor)

Upon arriving at our very charming flat located directly on the history-laden Royal Mile, our equally charming Airbnb host greeted us with a personal tour of the flat and a lovely gift basket. Scottish hospitality is a wonderful thing and we felt very welcome in our temporary home. Looking out of my bedroom window and finding The World’s End pub located directly across the street was an unexpected bonus. (The World’s End used to mark the edge of the walled-city of the Old Town and was to many of the residents housed inside, the actual world’s end. It also plays into the story-line of Voyager, the third book in Diana Gabaldon’s Outlander series.)

  • Nerd Alert: Outlander is one of the inspirations that originally brought me to Scotland – along with the first Highlander And the Highlander television series. Time traveling and immortal Scotsmen?? Yeah, I was totally on board… Still am, in fact. Additionally, the Outlander series has now been fabulously adapted for television on the STARZ network. Check out this local Outlander guide for a good list of spots to investigate during your Edinburgh visit.

Since our Fortnum and Mason wares had worn off and we were bursting at the seams with the excitement of being in Edinburgh, we dumped our bags and headed up the Royal Mile to find some Scottish cuisine. Also on the agenda was to meet up with our friend, Piotr, who was joining us for the Edinburgh portion of our adventure. He was doing his own UK exploration with further travels in Poland, but had popped into Edinburgh for a few Scottish exploits along the way. Since he had arrived in town earlier in the day, he was able to procure a table at the crowded Deacon Brodie’s on the Royal Mile. (The duplicitous William “Deacon” Brodie inspired Robert Louis Stevenson’s Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde) It’s a bit touristy, but classic and their fish pie and hot toddy were just what I needed to power up in the cold. (It should be noted that Kristen ordered her first meat pie (Of MANY) that night. And okay, I ordered my first hot toddy… (Of MANY) Suffice to say, we were both on personal journeys to hunt down the tastiest versions of each.)

After dinner, we braved the cold (snow was forecast!) and walked up and down the Royal Mile. Famously located at the top of the Royal Mile is Edinburgh Castle. We were planning on an official visit the next day, but wanted to check out its majesty in the brisk, Scottish night. The castle is always beautiful, but under a cold, starry sky, it was positively stunning and foreboding. To think of the near thousand years of history housed within its walls is absolutely mind-boggling. It’s hard to follow up that kind of pedigree, but walking back down the Royal Mile and taking in the activity still taking place along its well-worn cobblestones with adjoining closes, wynds and courtyards was equally remarkable. It’s also home to scores of excellent pubs from which to grab a perfectly poured pint or (another) hot toddy.

HotToddy
The first hot toddy of the trip!

On the topic of hot toddies, I furthered my research with a stop at the pub located on the street level of our flat.  No. 1 High Street is a cozy Edinburgh pub offering classic Scottish cuisine and tasty beverages. They are also more than happy to put your beverage in a to-go cup to add warmth to your outdoor escapades. No. 1 High Street would be our last stop before a much needed sleep, but this was good to note for the next day’s outings.

  • For a more detailed list of pub offerings in Edinburgh, check out the Edinburgh Heritage Pub Trail. (The World’s End is included on the list!)

The sun doesn’t rise quite as late as further north, but it still wasn’t until around 8:30am that light shown on the horizon.  When it did finally make itself known, the morning sky was bright blue and shot through with pinkish-purple clouds. It looked like a cold and lovely start to a full day in Edinburgh.

The first point of business for the beautiful morning was to enjoy a proper fry-up breakfast. I’d very much been looking forward to this for quite some time and was excited to check out our options. As suspected, there was no shortage of possibilities and we settled on a spot near the University of Edinburgh by the name of Brunch & Supper. (Famed University of Edinburgh graduates such as Robert Louis Stevenson, Sir Walter Scott and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle help give Edinburgh its distinct literary flavor.) Following a brisk walk to the restaurant, we met up with Piotr and plotted the day over our tasty breakfasts. I have to say, I’ve greatly missed the hearty fry-up breakfast and it was especially enjoyable on a chilly winter morning.

A few more options for breakfast in the Old Town area:

  • The Inn on the Mile – A lovely boutique inn and restaurant directly on the Royal Mile. Formerly the British Linen Bank – reminds me of Gringotts!
  • The Edinburgh Larder – Cool spot on Blackfriars Street
  • The City Café – 50s-style diner with breakfasts my friends swear by (We tried to go on the day we left, but they weren’t open yet!)
  • The Baked Potato Shop – Okay, maybe not a traditional breakfast, but “jacket potatoes” are delicious any time of the day!

After gorging ourselves on breakfast, a bit of walking around was in order. On every visit to Edinburgh, I’ve wanted to check out The Scotch Whisky Experience (and barrel ride!) located just down from the castle. As Kristen sadly doesn’t like whisky (the horror!), she decided to venture around the city on a photography pilgrimage. (Some of her excellent shots are featured in this article) Piotr, however, was down for some late-morning whisky, so off we went. I mean, come on – we were in Scotland on a brisk winter morning. What frames the picture better than some whisky tasting?  (Pro Tip: Scotch whisky does not contain an “e” in its spelling. Don’t add one. DON’T DO IT. Case in point, if you happen to work at a tiny Highland inn and accidentally drop one in on the daily menu, you could very well be lectured for hours…)

Wow – what a fine way to spend the morning! The tour was very entertaining and educational. It involved riding in a giant whisky barrel while gently winding through whisky-centric presentations and fun displays. Think adult version of the Teacups ride… (Note: The ride is not jarring and you do it before the whisky tasting.) After the ride you get to explore additional displays as well as take in a well done video about the five distilling regions of Scotland and history of single-malts and blended whiskies. (Complete with a corresponding scratch-n-sniff card!) The tour then wraps up with a mini-class on Scotch tasting and a visit to the world’s largest, privately held whisky collection. Housed in a large room, the collection is comprised of several cabinets, stretching floor to ceiling. It was… breathtaking. #WHISKYGOALS

In addition to the tasting and souvenir whisky glass included in the standard tour, we opted to level up and invested in a bonus tasting at the end. (Because why wouldn’t you??) Appointed with a lovely bar, a beautiful view of the city and a fine selection of whisky, it was a great place to put our newly acquired tasting skills to the test. As I was ill and not quite myself – and a bit off in equilibrium – I sadly spilled one of my whiskies on the way up to our table. Embarrassing! (I’d only had ONE dram at that point, so it wasn’t whisky influenced…) The staff, however, was nonplussed and very kind about refilling my spillage. Wasting good whisky is pretty much a Scottish crime and I was very happy they were so accommodating.

In a nutshell, the tour was absolutely worth it and I’d do it again – and it really did aid in my whisky tastings along the course of our adventure. I wish I could’ve fit some of the golden nectar from their extensive gift shop into my luggage as well as checked out their restaurant/whisky bar, but I’ll be back. In the meantime – Slàinte mhath! (The proper Gaelic toast we learned on the tour. It means “Good health!” and is pronounced slan-ja-va.)

After the tour, we were a bit peckish, so we hit up the Café Hub in the Edinburgh International Festival headquarters, just a few doors down from the whisky tour. The Hub, formerly known as the Tolbooth Kirk, is a beautiful old church and dramatic contributor to the Old Town skyline. It was interesting to see the Gothic-style architecture and vaulted ceilings juxtaposed with the modern trappings of a festival and event headquarters. It was quite the lovely backdrop for the tea and scones with clotted cream and preserves we ordered in the café. They were rather tasty and a great way to prepare for the cold walk around the castle grounds.

From nearly every section of the Old and New Towns, it’s possible to catch a glimpse of the amazing Edinburgh Castle, perched high on Castle Rock. The imposing, stunning castle dominates the city, successfully having guarded it from a near millennia of action and upheaval.  I’ve made a point to visit the castle on every trip and am fairly certain I will make time on all future visits. It would be impossible to thoroughly take in everything on one visit, not to mention be completely exhausting. The castle grounds are extensive with winding cobblestone paths that navigate around a fully-functioning town within a town. A beautiful chapel, royal lodgings, military barracks, great halls, a prison/dungeon, the Scottish crown jewels, museums and fortified castle walls with armaments to protect the castle from all sides are some of the highlights of any visit.

After the castle, we walked down the Royal Mile, taking in the scene and visiting various tourist shops. One of the places I’d been curious about on past visits was the Tartan Weaving Mill, located directly across from the castle. It’s a bit of a tourist trap, but it was very cool to see the looms at work making true Scottish tartan. If you happen to be in the market for trinkets and souvenirs, this is a good place to one-stop shop. They also have onsite genealogists to help one trace their Scottish roots and all sorts of wares to aid showing off any heritage you should uncover. Check out the Heritage of Scotland site for an example of the types of textiles offered.

It had been a gloriously sunny day with bright blue skies, but the daylight was beginning to fade and the temperature was dropping. We decided it was time to head “home” to layer up with warmer gear before venturing down to the epic Christmas Market. A beautiful holiday tradition (and FREE!), the Christmas Market is located in the *New Town in the beautiful Princes Street Garden and across from Edinburgh’s quintessential shopping destination, Princes Street. (Not to mention the stellar Scottish National Gallery and the soaring Scott Monument) Taking advantage of the lovely to-go service at the pub downstairs, we stopped in for a hot toddy to help keep us warm on the walk. (It’s a well-known fact hot toddies are good for what ails ye. WELL KNOWN.)

*The New Town isn’t really that new – especially by US standards. It was built between 1767 and 1850.

Even though the temperature continued to drop and we realized how ill-equipped we actually were for the frigid cold, it was a beautiful night to take in all the Christmas Market had to offer. We wandered through the artist’s stalls and holiday vendors, marveled at the beautiful lights and carnival rides and partook of the delicious food and drink offerings throughout the market. There were SO many scrumptious options, including countless stalls selling hot toddies, Glühwein and tasty hot chocolate and coffee beverages. Not only were there delicious Scottish fares to enjoy, there were many vendors featuring food and drink from around the world. I’ll have to say one of the biggest downfalls of being sick was not being able to fully experience all of the amazing tastes and smells. Sigh… Guess I’ll just have to go back!

I normally love winter weather, but given my sickness, the cold seemed extra pronounced and I decided to invest in some warmer gear, right then and there. (I honestly can’t remember the last time I was quite that chilled to the bone – to the point where my feet felt like ice blocks and it was painful to walk… COLD!) In addition to the new hat I’d purchased earlier in the day, I also snapped up a set of lambswool shoe liners from a festival vendor and a toasty pair of fox slippers and lambswool socks from the “TK Maxx” across the street. (Admittedly, we also stepped inside the store to get warm! It was an added bonus they had a good selection of cold weather wear… And it’s not TJ Maxx, it’s TK Maxx.) Once we were all further bundled up, we braved going back into the cold to enjoy more of the festival. Along with some more hot toddy action… Don’t judge me.

The market scene truly was a winter wonderland and although it would be the only time we’d spend in the New Town area during this visit, it was a very worthwhile way to spend the evening. There are so many amazing things to see and do in this part of town and I wish we would’ve had some more time to visit even a few.

Some of the excellent things to check out in the New Town area:

  • Formerly the Nor’ Loch (now drained), the aforementioned Princes Street Gardens are a lovely place to take a stroll. The blooms and blossoms are glorious in the spring and it offers an excellent perspective of the Old and New Towns. The view of the Castle is also unparalleled and taking in the fireworks at the end of the Fringe Festival in August is one of the most amazing things ever. The Scottish Chamber Orchestra sets up in the valley of the park and music is piped around the city as the fireworks explode into the sky and cascade off the sheer cliff face of the castle. AMAZING!
  • The Balmoral Hotel – Even if you just walk in and look around, it’s worth it. A beautiful example of Victorian architecture, the Balmoral is the go-to hotel for swanky lodging and aristocratic hobnobbing. The bar is amazing and the Michelin-star dining is delicious!
  • In addition to the Scottish National Gallery, the Scottish National Portrait Gallery and the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art are beautifully curated and absolutely worth a visit.
National Gallery
Scottish National Gallery in the New Town
  • Close to the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art is Dean Village and The Walkway. An idyllic, peaceful area in a busy city with a rambling 12-mile trek through the area and alongside the Water of Leith.
  • Check out the thriving foodie scene in the waterfront area of Leith. 4-star Michelin restaurants, pubs, bakeries – Leith has it all! Stroll along the lovely waterfront area and look out onto the Firth of Forth and South Queensbury at the mouth of the Water of Leith and marvel at The Forth Bridge. (UNESCO World Heritage Site)

After saying goodnight to the Christmas Market, we trudged back up the hill to the Old Town. (Albeit a beautiful trudge) It was time to consider turning in for the evening as we had a morning flight to Orkney Island and Ms. Sicky McSickerson was very much starting to fade. However, on the way back to the flat, we noticed a Starbucks (so very Seattle of us) and I decided I really needed an Edinburgh “You Are Here” mug to add to my collection.

With my purchase hot in hand, we began to walk back to our lodgings, but noticed a large crowd of people in the street. They appeared to be singing and dancing to a holiday song, ala flash mob – and were coming down the road towards us. We stopped to watch and I walked up a little closer to film the scene with my phone.

They all appeared to be wearing headphones and there were a few people in the front who appeared to be directing the group. One of these pied pipers was looking in my direction and turned back to the crowd and gave some sort of signal. I was just merrily watching the procession when all of the sudden they all started coming directly towards me! I kept filming – and laughing – and sure enough, they came right up to me and gave me a personal performance! It was one of the coolest things I’ve ever witnessed and it made me absolutely and completely happy. It’s making me smile right now, just writing about it!

Before I knew it, they had wrapped up their performance and bid me adieu as they continued, singing and dancing into the Edinburgh night. I learned later they were taking part in a Silent Adventures event, a flash-mob sort of outfit that organizes “silent disco” street tours all over the UK. I will definitely look them up the next time I’m in town!

After ambling back to our lodgings, I settled into my cozy room across from The World’s End. While hazily drifting off to sleep (thank you, hot toddies), I was filled with thoughts of all the spectacular sights, sounds and tastes Edinburgh has to offer.

A few of the amazing places in the Old Town I’ve previously visited and a few I hope to visit on future adventures:

  • Victoria Street is a must-see street. Colorful, winding and filled with cool shops and restaurants, it was JK Rowling’s inspiration for Diagon Alley. Victoria Street is part of the eclectic Grassmarket area. Classic architecture, unique shops and restaurants, the excellent Edinburgh Farmer’s Market and its darker history of being the town’s execution spot make it a fascinating part of town to visit.
  • Greyfriars Kirkyard – Noted as the most haunted cemetery in the world, Greyfriars Kirkyard is a must-visit for numerous reasons. Pay homage to the great loyalty of dogs with a visit to Greyfriars Bobby and his beloved policeman, John Gray. Check out remains of the Flodden Wall, one of the original walls built around the city. (c. 1560, built after the earlier defeat by the British at the Battle of Flodden) Seek out JK Rowling’s naming inspirations amongst the tombstones. (Tom Riddle, (Minerva) McGonagall, (Alastor) Moody)
  • Close to Greyfriars Kirkyard, you can find the stunning George Heriot’s School which is said to be JK Rowling’s inspiration for Hogwarts. Also located nearby are remains of the Telfer Wall, an extension of the Flodden Wall, built between 1628 and 1636.
  • Edinburgh has the reputation of being one of the most haunted cities in Europe with a dark and bloody history. In support of that mantle, there are many locations to investigate. One of the most fascinating – and tragic – is Mary King’s Close. During the Bubonic plague epidemic of 1645, the area was quarantined and many of the residents perished within. Check out The Real Mary King’s Close tour for a chilling journey through the re-opened close and alleyways. Another great way to learn about Edinburgh’s dark past is to join one of the well-done Mercat Tours walking tours.
  • The Writer’s Museum is a fabulous place to celebrate the rich literary history of Edinburgh. (Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson are the focus of the museum) Housed in a ridiculously charming building located down Lady Stair’s Close, it’s a must-visit for lovers of the written word.
  • Located on the opposite end of the Royal Mile from Edinburgh Castle, The Palace of Holyroodhouse is the storied former home of the iconic Mary Queen of Scots and the current queen’s official residence whenever in town.
  • Arthur’s Seat and Holyrood Park – Technically not part of the Old Town, but within somewhat reasonable walking distance, Arthur’s Seat sports one of the best views around. Hike up to the top of this extinct volcano and take in the view of Edinburgh out onto the Firth of Forth and marvel at the centuries of history and expansion.
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View of Arthur’s Seat from the castle

In addition to the never-ending list of places to visit and history to explore, one of the things I’ve come to love most about Edinburgh is its support of the Arts and ability to host spectacular festivals and celebrations. I’ve had the great fortune to take in the spectacular Arts festival, the Edinburgh Fringe Festival which takes place throughout most of August (and throughout most of the city) and most recently, the excellent Christmas Market. Running adjacent to the Fringe Festival, the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo is full of epic pageantry and pipes and takes place on castle grounds throughout most of August. Also running during August is the amazing Edinburgh International Festival. If you happen to be around town for New Year’s Eve, be sure to hit up Edinburgh’s Hogmanay with its torchlight procession on December 30th and fireworks and ceilidh in Princes Street Gardens on New Year’s Eve.

Pro Tips: A great way to get around the touristy areas of Edinburgh is via the hop on/hop off bus tours. (Also good if you just want to take a break from walking and listen to the onboard host talk about the city’s history) I enjoy using the Edinburgh Bus Tour to easily check out the Old Town locations in particular. I also highly recommend getting the Historic Scotland Explorer Pass (discounted during winter months) to gain quick access to many of Scotland’s historic locations. (Edinburgh Castle, Castle Urquhart, Skara Brae, etc.) This can be purchased online before you go.

The next morning we were out of our flat before the sun rose, but could tell it wasn’t going to be another sunny day. It was cold, cloudy and the smell of snow was in the air, but we braved the chill for one last Old Town jaunt. As we were departing at noon to Orkney Island, an early breakfast was in order so we headed up the Royal Mile to find something quick and tasty. We met up with Piotr along the way and enjoyed a last breakfast together at the cheery Café Edinburgh. Regardless of my taste buds only partially operating, the Scottish lox with scrambled eggs and croissant was delicious and a good start to the day.

It was sad to say goodbye to Edinburgh, but it was time to go. As we hopped into our Uber to Edinburgh airport, it vaguely started to snow. My body shivered as I pulled down my hat and put on my gloves. I was looking forward to what would hopefully be warmer weather on Orkney Island…

And with that, I bid you a temporary farewell. Join me next time for the exciting conclusion where we battle gale-force winds and sideways rain, bask in the glory of ancient standing stones and Viking homesteads and commune in the land of epic highland fortresses and feral goats. All true stories!

Slàinte mhath!

*Quick link to Part II of my Scottish adventures

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On a related note of cheers and toasting, I’ll leave you with my standard hot toddy recipe. It was given to me by the chef at the Highland inn I worked at several years ago. I was nursing a bad cold at the time and she swore by a “remedy” she’d learned from her mother. It absolutely did the trick and I now pass it on to anyone with even the slightest case of sniffles. Enjoy – and feel better!

 Hot Toddy

  • 1 healthy shot of good whisky (I prefer a less peaty variety such as Glenfiddich)
  • About a Tbsp of honey
  • A good squeeze of fresh lemon (a tsp or two)
  • Fresh lemon slice
  • 6 oz boiling water
  • A healthy dash of Drambuie (optional)

Add whisky, honey and lemon juice to a sturdy mug. Pour boiling water over ingredients and stir. Add additional whisky and honey to taste and top with a squeeze from a lemon slice – add lemon slice to mug. Nice options are to add a bit of Drambuie and a finishing orange slice rather than lemon…

~And for a nice bit of accompaniment to your soothing hot toddy…

I Ate the State: Scottish Tour of Destiny – The Spotify Playlist

  • It’s Oh So Quiet – Björk (from Post)
  • Untitled #3 – Samskeyti – Sigur Rós (from album () )
  • Prologue – John Williams (from Harry Potter & the Sorcerer’s Stone Original Motion Picture Soundtrack)
  • You Do Something to Me – Paul Weller (from Stanley Road)
  • Then I Met You – The Proclaimers (from Sunshine on Leith)
  • Un Flambeau, Jeannette Isabelle – Loreena McKennitt (from A Midwinter’s Night Dream)
  • God Rest Ye Merry Gentlemen – Loreena McKennitt (from A Winter Garden – Five Songs for the Season)
  • Standing Stones – Loreena McKennitt (from Parallel Dreams)
  • Standing Stones – Jeremy Soule (from The Elder Scrolls V: Skyrim – Original Game Soundtrack)
  • Stonehenge – Ylvis (from Stonehenge – Single)
  • Who Wants to Live Forever – Queen (from Greatest Hits II)
  • Princes of the Universe – Queen (from A Kind of Magic)
  • Outlander – The Skye Boat Song (Castle Leoch Version) – Bear McCreary feat. Raya Yarbrough (from Outlander: Season 1, Vol. 1 – Original Television Soundtrack)
  • Bonny Portmore – Loreena McKennitt (from The Visit)
  • Hedwig’s Theme – John Williams (from Harry Potter & the Sorcerer’s Stone Original Motion Picture Soundtrack)
  • Holding Back the Years – Simply Red (from Picture Book)
  • Whisper to a Scream (Birds Fly) – The Icicle Works (from The Icicle Works)
  • End of a Century – Blur (from Parklife)
  • Stillness in Time – Jamiroquai (from The Return of the Space Cowboy)
  • Birds – Kate Nash (from Made of Bricks)
  • Wings of Speed – Paul Weller (from Stanley Road)
  • I Miss You – Björk (from Post)
  • Svefn-g-englar – Sigur Rós (from Ágætis byrjun)
CastleDaisies
Lovely daisies in December! (Edinburgh Castle)

More I Ate the State Adventures: