I Ate the State: Special Edition – Iceland 2024 (and 2021!)

I’ve always been intrigued by Iceland and my interest was further fueled after an unexpected layover en route to the UK a few years ago. Sweeping snowfields, volcanoes, waterfalls, the Northern Lights, dramatic weather, trolls, fairy tales – all the things! Fast forward to today and I’ve now officially visited Iceland two times. I plan on visiting many more times, but in the meantime, I’d like to share my recent adventures in this beautiful land of fire and ice. And hotdogs.

Road to Reynisfjara
Road to the black sand beach of Reynisfjara

My Icelandic trips to this date have all been during the winter. Anywhere between the winter holidays and mid-February, my trips have been filled with snow, small windows of daylight, and some very powerful winds. All of my adventures have arrived on the wings of Icelandair and have involved some pretty amazing deals. (Note: I’m not receiving any promotional credit from Icelandair, but I will say they regularly have some pretty smokin’ hot deals.)

Speaking of Icelandair and the smokin’ hot, I woke up to an email entitled “Your flight is not affected by volcanic activity in Reykjanes Peninsula” on the morning of my most recent trip. The Sundhnúkur volcano had erupted several times in recent months and caused the evacuation of the village of Grindavík. It was apparently erupting again the morning of my trip. (And a couple weeks after my return as well! And activity persists!) Iceland is built on an active foundation of 130 volcanoes and the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, caused by the separation of two major tectonic plates, the North American and Eurasian. To say that Iceland is a hotbed of activity, is both an understatement and very intended pun.

After purchasing a new coat at SeaTac Airport before boarding our flight, my longtime travel pal, Kristin, and I embarked upon another adventure to Iceland. Unlike our last Icelandic journey, we weren’t required to do COVID tests coming or going, so that was a nice bonus. Also in difference to our first outgoing flight to Iceland, this flight was smooth and event free. (No insane turbulence! The kind where you introduce yourself to the guy sitting beside you and perhaps hold hands.) Additionally, the tailwinds were in our favor, and we landed in Iceland a full hour ahead of time.

Travel lessons learned: I create extensive, nerdy, overly-involved travel checklists for every adventure. Yet still, on my first Iceland adventure, I didn’t inspect my hiking boots thoroughly enough and the soles completely blew out within the first hour of walking around in the extreme cold. (Nice boots, but older.) I then had to gingerly walk, in said extreme cold, to find a sports store open on Christmas Eve where I could buy a new pair of boots. This trip, I packed coats, but didn’t pack my main, super-cold-weather coat. It is extremely important to have a warm coat during the winter months in Iceland, so I had to purchase one at the airport in preparation. Moral of the story: Triple check you’ve included everything on your list, and thoroughly vet each item’s trip-worthiness.

On all of our trips, we arrived at Keflavik Airport very early, in the dark of morning. As Iceland is eight hours ahead of Seattle in the winter months, we arrived just after 5am. This can also be a challenge to one’s morning alertness as it doesn’t get fully light this time of year until 10am or so. As we sleepily made our way through the airport, on our way to immigration and baggage claim, I was dreaming of coffee, a nap, and a lot more coffee before beginning the day’s adventures in earnest.

Once we’d cruised through the mercifully short immigration queue and baggage claim, we headed towards our Flybus pick-up area. The Keflavik Airport has good food options, nice shops, is nicely laid out, and is a good place for a long layover. They also have a fairly extensive Duty-Free store, where we stopped for essentials before leaving the airport. Snacks, booze, licorice, booze, snacks, licorice… Important items for any trip!

Pro Tip: You can’t buy beer, wine, or spirits in Icelandic grocery stores and the government-run liquor stores (Vinbudin) aren’t always convenient or open. Therefore, if you’d like to make a cocktail or enjoy a glass of wine at your hotel or Airbnb, stop by Duty Free before leaving the airport and stock up.

One of the things I’d greatly been looking forward to was a return to the Icelandic hotdog. “But you can get a hotdog nearly anywhere,” you say? Yes, there are many amazing hotdogs and sausages to be found around the world and I’m generally on a mission to try them all. That said, the Icelandic hotdogs are particularly amazing, and I was on a mission to try as many as possible on this trip. I’d had a couple on my last visit and had been looking for ways to get them in the US ever since. (Tl;dr – You can’t get them in the US. You can import the condiments, but not the actual hotdogs. Why, USDA? WHY??) Hotdogs are Iceland’s national comfort food and if I have to go to Iceland to enjoy them, so be it.  

And why am I all of the sudden going on about hotdogs? Because there’s a hotdog stand in the airport before you even go through immigration, and another after you’ve gone through! They literally get you right out of the gate. I’ll go into more hotdog detail later in the article (you’re welcome), but I was very excited to see the vibrant red signage of Iceland’s premier hotdog vendor, Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur as we were making our way out of the airport.

After enjoying what will forthwith be known as HOTDOG #1, we made our way to the Flybus pick-up area and were greeted with our first blast of the Icelandic cold. (Glad I invested in that airport coat!) The wait to board the bus wasn’t too long and before we knew it, we were warmly ensconced and on our way towards Reykjavik. The skies were just starting to show the morning light and the hour-long ride into town was filled with great views of the stark, snow-covered landscape.

Circling back to the volcano, which was erupting that morning, there is only one road in/out of the airport to Reykjavik. This particular volcano is relatively close to the airport and surrounding areas, so if lava were to cross the road, which it has recently done in surrounding areas, access to the airport would immediately be cut off. Granted, Iceland has volcano-based contingency plans, and has been incredibly efficient in addressing related issues, but lava’s gonna do what lava’s gonna do. Luckily, our trip into town that day was very expeditious, and unimpeded by lava.

Regarding Flybus logistics – and these are important – you’ll need to figure out your bus stop location when booking. The Flybus will initially drop you off at the bus transfer station and you’ll then need to locate your connecting bus. If you’re staying at one of the hotels in Reykjavik, the transfer Flybus will often drop you off directly at the hotel. If you’re staying at an Airbnb, it’s fairly easy to get relatively close. Since we opted for an Airbnb on this recent trip, we located the stop closest to our Airbnb and prepared for a short walk to our lodging.

Important note: The transfer station can sometimes be crowded and slightly confusing. Keep an eye out for your color-coded bus stop number posted on the busses as they drive into the pick-up area.

Once we had correctly identified where we were supposed to disembark, we hauled our luggage off the bus and stopped to consult good ol’ Google Maps for our next steps. While there aren’t crazy, Seattle-style hills in downtown Reykjavik, there are certainly some decent grades; especially when you throw in snow and ice. In retrospect, I should’ve changed my boots at the airport. Sure, I was wearing some semblance of boots, but they weren’t the greatest for walking uphill in the snow and ice, with luggage and Duty Free. Yes, HOTDOG #1 provided some necessary fuel, but I was greatly in need of some additional caffeinated assistance.

While I will admit to being a little frustrated with the uphill, luggage-filled trek to our Airbnb, it was hard to stay grumpy amidst the completely charming, impossibly quaint neighborhoods. Reykjavik is known for its cool murals and the neighborhood homes are no exception. The homes are also often painted in vibrant colors and feature traditional, Nordic-themed architectural motifs. The neighborhood we were staying in also included many of Reykjavik’s original homes from the late 1800s.

Upon having finally reached our Airbnb, where our host graciously allowed us a (very) early check-in, we happily relaxed in our cozy home-for-the-week. Located next to the 4-star Hotel Holt, known as The Art Hotel, it was a full apartment with two bedrooms, bathroom, laundry and full kitchen. The neighborhood was charming, quiet, and ended up being perfectly situated for adventuring around Reykjavik on foot.

Reykjavik has many great lodging options, including traditional hotels, Airbnb, and hostels. On our last visit, we opted for a hotel booked via the Icelandair options. If you’re looking for an economical option for your trip, the Hotel Cabin is a great spot. It’s not luxurious, and features an IKEA-style of lodging, but also includes a breakfast room, great concierge, and a cozy little bar and lounge area. (It also includes some very… interesting… art work.) It’s also located near the fantastic Sculpture and Shore walkway and the iconic Höfði House, and is a close walk from downtown. In a nutshell, it’s fairly easy to find the perfect spot in Reykjavik from which to embark upon your Icelandic exploits.

After a much-needed nap, it was time for the first walk-about. Reykjavik is an incredibly walkable city, filled with great food, shopping, museums, culture, and never-ending, amazing scenery. There is literally a postcard shot in every direction you turn. During the winter, as long as you’re prepared for the weather, it’s easy to spend the entire day wandering around the downtown core, taking in all the city has to offer.

The weather was beautiful overall on this trip, albeit a bit windier and snowier than our last visit. There was snow and ice on the ground throughout the trip, and it did snow a small bit, but it was generally bright and sunny throughout the trip. My very favorite days are cold and sunny with snow on the ground and Reykjavik didn’t disappoint. (Reminds me of the crisp, cold, winter days of central WA.) And while it may be cold, don’t forget to bring sunglasses and a good SPF along with your warm coat, hat, and gloves.

My first order of business was to find a local coffee shop. I’m always on the lookout for a good cup of coffee and Reykjavik has many excellent options for coffee, tea, and more. One thing to note is there are no big-chain options like Starbucks or McDonalds in Iceland. While I’m slightly sad to not be able to continue to grow my goofy “You Are Here” Starbucks mug collection, I’m more than happy to support local businesses. In addition to many great, smaller coffee spots, you can usually find several Te and Kaffi shops, Iceland’s answer to chain shops like Starbucks. They make a great cup of coffee and feature tasty treats to accompany your drink.

On a sidenote to the lack of Starbucks or McDonalds locations in Iceland, there are an odd number of Domino’s Pizza, Subway, and Sbarro restaurants in Reykjavik. Odd.

Now that I’d refueled with a good dose of caffeine, I was ready to take on the city. But first, there were a few errands to do. On the first day of any trip, it’s a good idea to make sure you’ve made the necessary reservations, grabbed snacks and sundries for your stay, gotten the lay of the land, replaced any items you may have forgotten, and picked up items such as the City Card. (City Cards speed up museum entries, give discounts to local shops, etc.)

Here’s an example itinerary and basically what we did on our first day in Reykjavik:

  • We needed some supplies for the Airbnb, so we stopped by the local Bónus 9-21 grocery store and stocked up on the basics. (i.e. Pastries, cream, mixers, snacks) Even if I’m not in need of supplies, I love checking out local grocery stores wherever I might be. It’s a great place to get an understanding of the local palate, cuisine, and community. (Interesting tidbit: The Bónus piggy mascot is quite iconic in the area.)
  • I’m usually on the lookout for interesting gifts and souvenirs throughout my journey, but it’s fun to hit up some of the shopping options on one’s first day. A great place for a little of everything is the Icelandic chain Icewear. They’re everywhere, with the Arctic Explorer stores being part of chain. Part outdoor, part souvenir, part everything else stores, they feature a great selection of Icelandic wares. (Arctic Explorer is where I got my boots after the Great Boot Blowout of 2021. This time, I found an excellent wool koozie mitten and volcano salt & pepper shakers, among other things.)
  • If you’re further looking for outdoor gear options, stop by 66°North. Think the North Face of Iceland. While I wasn’t looking for a coat or boots at this point, it’s always a great shop to check out.
  • If the city I’m visiting features a card which allows for quick and/or discounted entrance to local attractions, I always grab one. Reykjavik has the aforementioned City Card which has some great discounts and features. We purchased ours online before the trip and picked it up at one of the many featured attractions throughout the city. We opted for pickup at the very cool Reykjavik Maritime Museum. (Museum bonus: This location is also very close to the Viking Saga Museum)

Museum Pro Tip: Double-check opening times and days for museums and they vary between summer and winter.

And now, back to the topic of hotdogs…

It was at this point in the day the first hotdog had worn off. Enter, HOTDOG #2. (Hello, HOTDOG #2! We welcome you!) Since I’d visited the Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur airport stand earlier in the day, I thought it was appropriate to seek out the original stand, circa 1937. Found in downtown Reykjavik and frequently sporting a long line, this is the crown jewel in Iceland’s longtime love affair with the hotdog, or pylsa/pulsa in Icelandic. Visiting dignitaries and heads of state have found their way to this very stand. While they likely didn’t have to stand in line, I was willing to wait my turn for one of these glorious, tubed-meat creations.

Often labeled Iceland’s favorite comfort food, the hotdog has been elevated to epic status in the country’s capital. You can grab a hotdog nearly anywhere throughout the city and beyond. Case in point, it is entirely possible to procure a very tasty hotdog at gas stations across the country. Sure, there’s something oddly tasty about a 7-11 chili-cheese dog at 2am on a Saturday night, but the Icelandic gas station and mini-mart dogs are in another league altogether. (Sidenote: The “Seattle Dog,” as purchased at 2am in the heart of Seattle is another hotdog experience of note. It might just merit its own article. Note to self.)

I’d been dreaming and scheming of how to get Icelandic hotdogs in the states, but as mentioned earlier, the USDA refuses to get onboard. Now that I’d finally returned to Iceland, it was important to take advantage of every day and its hotdog availability. I very nobly decided to take on the self-imposed challenge of eating at least one hotdog a day during my trip and profiling the experience. Since this was already HOTDOG #2, I was off to a great start. Do follow along with me on this noblest of adventures.

Hotdog How-to: There are many different ways to enjoy an Icelandic hotdog, but definitely try one “with everything” on your first time out. What might that entail? Here’s the scoop:

  • One footlong, lightly steamed hotdog bun
  • A squirt of Vals Ketchup (apple based) on the bun followed by finely diced white onion and crunched up fried onions (think French’s Fried Onions)
  • On top of the ketchup and onions, add a footlong Icelandic hotdog (mix of organic, grass-fed lamb, pork, and beef) boiled in beer and water. (They’re done when they float to the top)
  • On one side of the hotdog, add a swipe of sweet brown mustard and on the other side, a swipe of remoulade
  • ENJOY!!
  • REPEAT!!!

With HOTDOG #2 dispensed, we made a quick return to our conveniently located Airbnb to drop off our shopping. It was now time to contemplate our evening plans. Upon reflection, maybe it wasn’t a great idea to plan an adventure that started at 8:30pm after arriving at 5am, with no sleep on the flight, and only a two-hour nap. But whatever, sleep is overrated, right? We’d booked a Northern Lights tour and it was a clear night. The hunt for the space lights was on!

But first, some further sustenance was in order! Yes, I was still partially under the spell of HOTDOG #2, but as Kristen is not a fan of the hotdog (the horror!), she was rightfully hungry. We’d visited Reykjavik Fish on our last trip and it was time to revisit their delicious, perfectly cooked, fish and chips. SO GOOD. Great atmosphere, multiple locations around town, and much more than fish & chips on the menu. Not to be missed!

Fully fueled by delicious fish and chips, it was time to make our way to our new friend, Bus Stop No. 3. The Aurora Lights tour outfit was picking us up for our Northern Lights Small Group Tour at 8:30pm. Booked via the excellent Aurora Reykjavik Northern Lights Center, we were very excited to again hunt for the lights. We’d vaguely witnessed them on our first trip, but we were hoping for a bigger display this time around. Since the best viewing months are September through April, we were feeling lucky.

Unlike the big-bus tour of our last trip, this was a smaller scale operation and featured a very entertaining driver, complimentary hot chocolate, and Icelandic-favorite cinnamon rolls by Braud & Co. (Check out their cinnamon roll recipe) The tour also includes free photos of the adventure, the option to re-book for free if you don’t see the lights, and the ability to head to viewing spots where the big busses can’t go.

Unfortunately, we didn’t really see much of a show that night. We saw a vague display, and though our driver took us to many possible viewing areas, the lights remained mostly elusive. We did have the option of re-booking for another night, but since this was a fairly quick trip, it wasn’t likely to happen. However, do not despair. Our light plight was not at an end. This saga may yet have a happy ending…

In the meantime, some Northern Lights Quick Facts:

  • The Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis) are a result of the sun creating geomagnetic storms that crash into the earth’s magnetic field. On clear nights, they can be spotted in northern locations around the world such as Sweden, Norway, Finland, Iceland, Alaska, Canada, and even Washington state. In addition to a clear night, you’ll also need low-level light pollution. The further away from the city you can get, the better the viewing.
  • Sisters to the northern display are the Southern Lights (Aurora Australis). Typically visible during their winter months of March thru September, New Zealand, Australia, and Antarctica are prime spots for catching the southern display.
  • Viewing the lights with the naked eye is difficult. If the storm is particularly strong, you might catch a small bit of color, but the naked eye will usually only see a wispy, whitish, cloud-like representation of the lights. A lens is required to catch the full-color of the display, be it via phone camera, traditional camera, or video camera. Pro Tip: Be sure to check your camera settings for night viewing options.
  • The lights are very fickle and it’s hard to fully predict when and how strongly they will show. Keep track of storms and stronger viewing possibilities on tracking websites like Spaceweather.com.

After a very necessary rest, the next morning was off to a sunny start. (When the sun fully came up around 10am, that is.) Like all Nordic countries, Iceland is very keen on swimming, saunas, hot springs, and all things aquatic. On our last Icelandic adventure, we made a pilgrimage to the famous Blue Lagoon spa, about forty-five minutes outside of Reykjavik. However, since the volcano was currently erupting in that area, we decided to investigate other options. (The volcano has since erupted again, and lava went across the access road to Blue Lagoon and nearby Svartsengi Geothermal Power Plant. They had the road cleared within a week!)

On this trip, Kristen was making a solo trip to the Hvammsvik Hot Springs (via bus stop no. 3) and I was all set to seek out good coffee and a bit of tasty food. I love a good hot springs as much as the next water lover, but since our trip was on the short side, I was trying to squeeze in a variety of sightseeing opportunities. (and hotdogs) We’d also reserved a day of relaxation later in the trip at the nearby Sky Lagoon and I was hopeful it would cover all of my hot spring and sauna needs.

For the record, the Sky Lagoon was amazing and far surpassed my expectations. The Blue Lagoon is incredibly unique and well worth a visit, but it is also very touristy and crowded. (I was also sick on my visit to the Blue Lagoon and only enjoyed the waters from the bar inside. Heh.) I honestly could’ve stayed at the Sky Lagoon all day, prune-y skin be damned. We opted to do the “Seven Rituals” experience and while I probably wouldn’t do it next time, it was absolutely worth a try. I honestly dream about casually floating around the lagoon, checking out the scenery, and enjoying a glass of wine. DREAMY. I will be back.

Hot Springs Pro Tips: Be sure to make reservations wherever you’re going. I also recommend springing for the private changing room/shower at the Sky Lagoon and throwing in the smorgasbord lunch.

As mentioned, while Kristen was swimming, I was roaming around town, seeking out tasty food and beverage. My first stop was at the DELICIOUS and very quaint, Saegreifinn (The Sea Baron) to try their lobster soup. It’s safe to say, I’d eat that soup every day. If you’re feeling brave, you can also try the classic Icelandic fermented shark dish (Hákarl), along with a shot of Brennivin. (I’ve now had plenty of Brennivin, but still haven’t stepped up to the shark…) The rest of their menu looked very tasty, and I was quite jealous of the dishes coming out to my fellow diners, but I also had… HOTDOG #3 to source.

Now fortified by lobster soup and HOTDOG #3, it was time to roam around and check out the shops. The downtown core of Reykjavik is filled with great shops, restaurants, museums, hotels, and more. The most popular streets are Laugavegur Street, the lovely Rainbow Street, and Austurstraeti Street. Should you be looking for chain stores, there are also shopping malls like Kringlan and Smáralindar, located just outside of downtown which feature upscale brands and the like. However, since the brand stores are largely available at home, I always prefer to comb the downtown areas for unique, local shopping opportunities. 

Case in point, Iceland has some pretty epic candy options. They have great chocolate, absolutely, but one of the first things I grab is one of their nine million kinds of black licorice. Love it or hate it, Iceland and all of the Nordic countries have cornered the market on black licorice. If that’s your candy jam, be sure to make a stop at Vínberið, located on Laugavegur Street. Not only do they have an excellent selection of licorice and chocolate, but the staff is also very nice, and they give free samples. Be sure to try some of Reykjavik’s delicious OmNom Chocolate while you’re there. Omnomnomnomnom! (Sidenote: I’m very excited to report I’ve recently found a candy shop two blocks from my home which stocks Icelandic candy, including OmNom!!! Check out Sugar Rush if you’re in the Bothell area! They also have a great selection of British candy. Mmmmm… Curly Wurly bars… )

Reykjavik has many excellent museums to explore. We were hoping to visit the Perlan Museum on our last visit, but due to COVID closures, were unable. Not the case on this trip! After Kristen had returned from her leisurely swim, we grabbed a taxi and headed just outside of downtown to visit this very cool museum. Set on a hilltop, this dome-shaped building offers an amazing 360-degree view of the area, including downtown Reykjavik and some pretty amazing foothills and snowy mountains. (Note: Get a discounted entry with a City Card)

Featuring well-curated exhibits, the museum covers Iceland’s natural wonders, including the Northern Lights, volcanic activity, and all things icy. If you don’t get a chance to check out the Northern Lights, lava, or super cool ice caves in person, Perlan is great option. Their shows featuring the Northern Lights and volcanic activities are excellent, but I was particularly impressed by the actual ice cave exhibit in the lower part of the museum. Very cool! Literally. Be sure to wrap up your visit with a snack or meal in the beautiful dining area located on the museum’s upper level. The 360-degree view of the sunset through the glass dome was absolutely stunning.

Taxi Tip: There are a few good taxi companies in Reykjavik and the busses are great. (#BusstopNo34life!) We used the reputable Hreyfill Taxi to take us to and from Perlan.  

On the topic of transportation options, and generally getting around in Iceland, we chose to rent a car for a day of adventuring on our last trip. We headed out on the epic, 800-mile Ring Road (Route 1), with the black sand beaches of Reynisfjara as our ultimate destination. Along the way, at every turn, we encountered some of the most spectacular scenery on the planet. Reykjavik proper is a wonderful place to visit, but I can’t recommend enough getting outside of the city to further take in the endless Icelandic beauty.

Rental car pro tip: Get rental insurance, AWD, know how to drive off-road (and possibly ford rivers), and maneuver in snow/adverse conditions; especially in the winter. Iceland ain’t messin’ around when it comes to driving adventures.

It’s firmly planted on my bucket list to complete the Ring Road during the summer when it’s a little less precarious. I’d like to take a full week to leisurely explore its treasures, including stopping at every accessible waterfall and glacier possible. (There are A LOT.) That said, the day-long adventure we were able to fit into our short itinerary was beyond worth it. Since our drive was only one day, with the daylight in short supply, we had a pretty packed schedule. While there is still SO much more to explore along our path, I have to say I’m pretty impressed by what we packed into the day.

Some of the amazing highlights:

  • Iceland is known for its sheep, and relatedly, its wool. On my initial layover in Iceland, I had the chance to peruse some of the beautiful wool products in the airport shops. On this trip, I wanted to visit the birthplace of Iceland’s wool industry, the Álafoss Wool Store. Located a short drive out of Reykjavik in Mosfellsbær, this company has been around since 1896 and continues to grace Icelandic homes with all things wooly. Situated in an idyllic location, this original factory features the Álafoss waterfall and Varma River out back, both of which used to drive the mills of the original factory. Present-day, this flagship location houses a wool store as well as a museum-like setting featuring displays and old knitting machinery from the original factory. Well worth a wooly visit!
  • Our ultimate destination for the day was the black-sand Reynisfjara beach. Racing against the setting sun, we got there just in time to see an amazing sunset and gorgeous beach scene. Located in central South Iceland and part of the Katla UNESCO Global Geopark, this beach is the stuff of fairytales. Sporting beautiful views, rugged cliffs, caves, petrified trolls, and a black-sand and pebble beach, it’s a don’t-miss destination! (Safety bulletin: Sneaker waves are real! Don’t turn your back on the ocean. Don’t do it. The signs are there for a reason.)
  • Back to the topic of wool, we also visited the little village of Vik i Myrdal, located just around the bend from Reynisfjara beach. Not only is there a huge Icewear outlet store, they also have the Katla Woolen Knitting Factory to fill all your wooly needs. The village itself is fairly small, but apparently has enough lodging to support the scientists studying the area as well as tourists. The town only has 300 residents, but 1400 rooms! (Sidenote: If you’re looking for an Icelandic mystery/drama about an ongoing volcanic eruption in the Vik area, check out Katla on Netflix. In classic Icelandic form, it’s fairly dark, but definitely highlights this part of Iceland.)
  • The road trip itself was a huge part of the adventure. Around every turn, there seemed to be a waterfall, and around the next bend, a sweeping glacier. One of the waterfalls we stopped at, the Seljalandsfoss was breathtakingly beautiful. And featured a cute little snack shack and gift shop! (Also in the area and a stop for my next trip is the Skogafoss waterfall.)

Another epic adventure we took on our last trip was to explore the Golden Circle. If you only have a couple of days in Iceland, do the Golden Circle tour. Full stop. We booked a big-bus tour via Icelandair to explore it on our last trip, and it was worth every second on the bus. On a future summer visit, I’d like to rent a car and explore the route at my leisure.

The Golden Circle route starts just outside of Reykjavik and just off the aforementioned Ring Road/Route 1. The tour we were on specifically hit up all the key points along the Golden Circle route. The first stop was at the amazing Friðheimar Greenhouse. Featuring a spectacular tomato greenhouse, a restaurant, bees, horses, and the best bloody Mary I’ve ever had, it was an excellent way to start the day. There was just something magical about arriving in the chilly pre-dawn (aka: 10am) and entering the lush, fragrant world of the greenhouse. Big sigh.

After fortifying ourselves with all things tomato, the next stop on the tour was the Geysir geothermal area, featuring the Strokkur Geysir and Geysir Center. (The center also includes a hotel, camping, spa, golf course, store, gift shop, and restaurant) While we did get to explore the area and take in some spectacular geyser displays, there is SO much more to experience in the vicinity. The one downfall of doing a tour is being at the mercy of the tour’s timetable. I can’t wait to revisit this area and take my time discovering the amazing surroundings.

If you’re a waterfall chaser like me, Iceland is the place to be. The most specific place to be, if you enjoy waterfalls and Iceland, is at the mind-blowingly beautiful Gullfoss Waterfall. Located in the Golden Circle, and a tour centerpiece, the epic waterfall is simply extraordinary. It’s no wonder Iceland is such a land of fairytales with otherworldly beauty like Gullfoss. I easily could’ve stood staring at those falls all day long. Granted, it was incredibly windy and very cold, with icy slivers blowing in our eyes, but it sure was spectacular. Go there!

The final stop on our Golden Circle tour was Thingvellir National Park. Very appropriately designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this sprawling park is awe-inspiring. Straddling the North-American and Eurasian tectonic plates, the area is an ever-shifting thing of beauty and wonder. (The plates are moving apart at approximately 2.5cm a year!) A simple stroll down any of the very accessible walking paths or hiking trails takes you next to, across, and around deep fissures, fascinating geologic striations, and the rugged waterscapes of the Öxará river. Should you be looking for means of transportation beyond walking or hiking, consider riding on horseback or snorkeling and diving between the continents.

Thingvellir is also a key location in the history and development of Iceland. Beginning in 930 CE through 1798 CE, the area was home to the yearly, open-air Althing assembly. In one of the world’s earliest parliamentary representations, inhabitants from across Iceland would gather for two weeks to settle disputes and agree upon governing. There are still remnants of the booths used during the assemblies and a millennia’s worth of human endeavors in the area.

Bottom line, no trip to Iceland would be complete without a tour of the Golden Circle. It is sometimes the case when arriving at the most-amazing-tourist-destination ever, it’s an overcrowded letdown. This applies to nowhere within the Golden Circle – and nowhere I’ve visited in all of Iceland, for that matter. Even if you only have a day, make the effort to visit the treasures of the Golden Circle. You won’t be sorry, but like me, might be a little sad you only had a day to explore their beauty.

In addition to further exploring all of the previously mentioned areas, including snorkeling between the continents, here are a few more of my Future Icelandic Road Trip Bucket List items:

  • Seeing the Northern Lights is amazing. Viewing them while camping out in a clear bubble yurt? YES, PLEASE. The ultimate Icelandic camping experience, in my opinion.
  • I want to POKE LAVA WITH A STICK. While this is a general bucket list goal, I would love to do it in Iceland. Yes, the stick would need to be long, but where there’s a lava will, there’s a lava way. Relatedly, I want to spend much more time checking out the volcano and glacier scene in Iceland.
  • PUFFINS!! To date, I have yet to see a puffin in Iceland. Where are all the puffins?? Granted, my visits haven’t been during puffin season, but still. (Sidebar: I never want to eat puffin. Or horse. Or whale. All are actually on menus in Iceland.)

Pro tip: There are many amazing destinations to explore on your Icelandic adventure. If your stay is short, tour operators can be very helpful in getting you exactly where you need to go, in an expedited fashion. Meandering about is always lovely, but if you’re short on time, it’s best to get right to it. There are many tour outfits, but I’ve had good luck with Aurora Reykjavik – The Northern Lights Center. In general, look for tours with reasonable cancellation policies and re-books if you don’t see something on your first outing, like the Northern Lights.

There are many areas of Iceland I’ve yet to explore. Luckily, my travel pal, Kristen, was able to cover a few such areas on this trip. As I had several museum and foodie adventures planned for this adventure, I had to live vicariously through Kristen on her exploits. The Westfjords part of Iceland is filled with epic wonder and Kristen did a fine job of taking it all in. Well, as much as she was able to do in a day or so. I’m tellin’ ya, a several week’s long road trip is clearly in order. During the summer months.

Some highlights from Kristen’s adventures:

  • Kristen found an excellent, all-day tour of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula in west Iceland. The tour included the iconic, highly photogenic Kirkjufell and Snaefellsjokull National Park, along with a home-cooked dinner at a local’s home. If you happen to be a fan of Game of Thrones, Kirkjufell, or the Mountain Shaped Like an Arrowhead, was featured in seasons 6 and 7, near “the Wall.”
  • Kristen is an expert equestrian. Since I am not, I left the horse-riding adventures to her. I love horses and riding, but I prefer to be the one riding at the back of the group, taking my time. On this trip, Kristen took her riding skills to the Ishestar Horse Riding Center to enjoy Iceland from horseback. Important note: Icelandic horses are smaller than western horses, but they ARE NOT PONIES. Do not call them ponies. You’ve been warned.

On a sidenote to adventuring in the wilds of Iceland, I was happy to learn there are no animal predators in Iceland. The Arctic Fox is their only native land mammal, and it dines mainly on smaller creatures. The Gyrfalcon , the largest Falcon in the world and national bird of Iceland, rules the skies, but unless you’re a smaller creature you’re likely good. There are also NO snakes, mosquitos, and only one type of wasp. YEAH! But there are midges. (Remind me to tell you the story of how I was nearly consumed by midges in Scotland one summer. Ugh.) Iceland also has non-native mink, rabbit, reindeer, and obviously sheep. And a lot of city cats in Reykjavik. (Roaming around in shops, popping out of alleys, lounging under benches, and featured in the holiday Yule Cat displays…)

While Kristen was exploring the beauties of West Iceland and communing with the ponies-not-ponies, I decided to take in some of the museums. And continue enjoying Reykjavik’s food and drink scene, which to some degree did, of course, involve hotdogs. Those hotdogs aren’t gonna eat themselves, after all…

The first museum I visited was the ultra-cool Reykjavik Art Museum. (Free entrance with a City Card) They were featuring an exhibit of work by prolific Icelandic artist, Erró, among additional, well-curated exhibits of Icelandic artists. The Erró exhibit features many of his provocative pieces, which often encompass a dark sense of political humor and comic-book style of graphic art. His artwork can also be found complimenting the walls of the Keflavik Airport terminal.

One of my very favorite things to do is to wander around a museum for the first time, with no agenda. The architecture, light, and general peacefulness of this museum was absolutely perfect for my maiden voyage. Icelandic art is truly unique; Sometimes a bit dark, sometimes a bit quirky, and sometimes hopeful and full of light. The Reykjavik Art Museum certainly presented Icelandic art with great compliment. I happened to be visiting on a perfectly sunny winter day, and the way the light played through different areas of the museum was art in and of itself.

Next stop on my museum adventure, was the truly unique, one-of-a-kind, Icelandic Phallological Museum. (Entry fee discount with City Card) You read it correctly: A museum dedicated to all shapes, varieties, sizes, and origins of penises. Including and dedicated to all species, the displays are truly fascinating, and also feature some very interesting and inspired art. Begun from a headmaster’s colleague sending him a bull pizzle as a joke, this family-owned museum has now grown to house the world’s largest collection of penises.

I don’t happen to have one myself, but roughly one in two species on the planet do. Why not have a museum dedicated to the appendage? All manner of mammal penises are featured, including a sperm whale. Yikes! The museum features a scientific approach, with the displays being well-presented and documented. Everything is very tastefully done, with a touch of humor here and there, but it’s family-friendly and well worth a visit. Bonus points if you hit up the café for an order of Belgian-style penis waffles (savory OR sweet) and a tasty beverage. (Sidenote: I was disappointed to not see hotdogs on the menu. A major missed-opportunity, in my opinion. Come on.)

In addition to my adventures in penis land, I also visited a few other amazing museums:

  • The National Gallery of Iceland was just a few blocks from where we were staying, and it was a beautiful walk through the snowy neighborhood streets. The exhibits were very modern and absolutely quirky, in the loveliest of ways. The snarky, talking rocks of Egill Sæbjörnsson’s The Egg or the Hen, Us or Them were my favorite, but his troll-life exhibit was pretty amazing as well. (All part of the Egill Sæbjörnsson and Infinite Friends of the Universe exhibit) Don’t miss a visit to this excellent museum. (Closed Mondays in the winter)
  • I wanted to see the House of Collections, sister to the National Gallery of Iceland, but time was not on our side. The beautiful location, originally serving as the National Library, is now featuring additional treasures from the National Gallery collection. Next visit!
  • Host to the required COVID tests needed to return home on our last trip, this trip’s visit to the beautiful Harpa Concert Hall was much more enjoyable. We caught the very unique Circuleight installation, but Harpa Concert Hall most regularly hosts all manner of live entertainment and conferences. Additionally, they have a very stylish café and gift shop. Located right on the water, this striking, architectural gem is a must-see spot. (Also a great place to check out the Northern Lights. More on that later!)

This is just a small cross-section of museums in the Reykjavik area. Be sure to check out the list on the City Card site as well as the Visit Iceland site. I’ve earmarked many museums for exploration on my next Icelandic excursion. (Iceland has 266 museums across the country!) (Sidenote: If you happen to stop by the National Gallery, be sure to check out the amazing amount of birdies at Tjörnin Pond, directly across the street. Ducks, geese, swans, Arctic terns, and more! It’s a lovely pond and when it freezes over, it also becomes a spot for ice-skating and hockey.)

Alrighty, it’s time to talk more about… FOOD! This obviously includes more hotdog chat, but there were indeed a few other Icelandic specialties I was interested in trying. I’d initially planned on hitting up a Reykjavik-based food tour, but I ended up striking out on my own. Next trip! (Pro tip: Local food tours are a great way to broadly experience a city’s cuisine, especially when traveling solo.)

While venturing out in search of HOTDOG #4, I had a nerdy, serendipitous experience along the way. I was walking towards the epic Hallgrimskirkja Church, in pursuit of the epic Víkinga Pylsur hotdog stand, when I came upon a street named “Baldursgata.” While it actually translates as “Baldur’s Street,” I couldn’t help but proclaim that I’d just found the actual Baldur’s Gate! (For further reference, Baldr is the son of Norse god, Odin.) As I spend my days nerdily toiling away in the video games industry, it was pretty cool to stumble upon such a find. If I traveled down this street, would I find myself transported to another world? MAYBE! Next trip. I had hotdogs to find in this world.

And find those hotdogs, and the stunning Hallgrimskirkja Church, I did! Both offering completely different experiences, it was extra epic to experience them together. The hotdog was delicious, and I plan to go back and try all of their hotdog creations. (Pulled pork hotdog anyone?!) The church, which I’ve now had the pleasure to experience in many weathers and times of day, was epic as usual. Regardless of your religious leanings, be sure to visit the church and, in the least, marvel at its beautiful architecture and stunning nave. (Check out that organ!) If you’re feeling sprite, head up to the tower for what is surely an amazing view of the city. (I wasn’t feeling the necessary level of sprightliness on this journey. Full from hotdogs. Next visit!)

Continuing on the topic of epic food experiences, I feel the need to dedicate a few paragraphs to one of the top meals of my life. Sometimes you stumble upon something that changes your life, like the time I accidentally found The National Gallery in London because the Tube was way too crowded and I had to exit – and breathe. And thereby found some of my most favorite paintings on display! But I digress… This particular life-changing event was the result of random wanderings around Reykjavik, and the realization my hotdog had worn off…

The well-reviewed Food Cellar was on my list of restaurants to try, but I hadn’t yet visited. As I walked up to the charming entrance, I noted the restaurant hours on the door. They opened for dinner at 5 o’clock and it was… 5 o’clock on the dot! In I went and looked around for staff, but to my dismay, no one appeared to be around. After going back outside and double-checking the hours, I returned inside and the maître d’ had magically appeared! Upon confirming I didn’t have reservations, he said since I was a party of one, they could fit me in before things started to get busy. Solo dining for the win!

For the first half hour or so, I was the only diner in this very lovely, cellar-level restaurant, and was absolutely pampered by the staff. Housed in the 160-year-old Geysir Building, the Food Cellar pays tribute to its past as well as supports the future of modern Icelandic dining. Featuring an amazing menu of local seafood, dishes range from the classic seafood soup, to glazed lamb, and grilled lobster tails. For the record, their Sailor’s Fish Soup was sublime. I could’ve eaten bowl after bowl and come back for more. DELICIOUS! The soup, followed by pan-fried char and dessert, with top-notch wine-service for each course, will be a very hard meal to match. (Pro tip: Try one of their fixed-prix “Secrets of the Cellar” meals with selected wines. I went for the “Seafood Feast” option.)

Combined with the wonderful service, great cocktails, and relaxing atmosphere, the Food Cellar is a Reykjavik must-visit. As I left wanting more, music from the cocktail bar, being played on their 1880 Bösendorfer grand piano, serenaded me out the door. Simply dreamy. I can’t wait to return!

On the topic of food and drink, it’s time to cover a bit about the beverage scene in Iceland. Alcohol was somewhat off the menu and didn’t fully return to public reach until 1989! Prohibition began in 1915, but wine was legalized in 1922, and all alcohol except BEER?? was brought back in 1935. (March 1st is now celebrated as national Beer Day.) Since then, the drink scene has grown to include many bars, pubs, and some very unique beverages.

On my most recent visit, I stopped in at Dillion Whiskey Bar and had an excellent time sampling local whiskies and more. They even had my favorite Scottish whisky, The Classic Laddie! Set upstairs from the restaurant portion of one of Reykjavik’s oldest wooden homes, the bar features a huge selection of whiskies as well as live music, and even a whiskey school! I’m betting their students don’t need much prodding to do their homework…

Some tasty Icelandic spirits to try on your next Icelandic adventure:

  • I tried the Flóki Single Malt Sherry Cask finish whiskey while at Dillion’s and it was excellent. On my next Icelandic adventure, I plan to hit up a tour at the Eimverk Distillery to learn more about their Flóki Icelandic Whiskey brand. (The distillery is located 15 minutes outside of downtown Reykjavik – appointment required. Book on website.)
  • By far the most popular spirit found in Iceland, the caraway-infused Brennivin is known as the original Icelandic spirit. Typically served in small, thimble-like shot glasses, it also makes for a variety of very tasty, unique cocktails. I like it chilled, served in one of the adorable, thimble-like shot glasses.
  • The 64°Reykjavik Distillery is a family-run, micro-distillery located in Reykjavik, using methods presented to the distillery by a local elf named Benedikt. True story. The Rhubarb and Crowberry liqueurs are fantastic, as are their gins and aquavits. Also, their recipes come from the elves. TRUE STORY.
  • Not to be confused with my favorite Icelandic musician, the Björk liqueur from Foss Distillery is absolutely unique and delicious. Björk, meaning “birch” in English, is one of Iceland’s most prevalent trees (and musicians), and provides the essence of this delicious liqueur. (Sidenote: I was dealing with an earache when we visited the Blue Lagoon spa on our last visit, so I stayed inside and checked out the lovely bar and café. It is there where I serendipitously discovered Björk liqueur. Next trip, I’d like to enjoy Björk liqueur while hanging out with Björk the musician. Dreams can come true.)
  • Should you be interested in drinking in tribute to the Norse gods, check out Reykjavik Spirits and their Viking Schnapps line. Between Thor (Goldenroot), Loki (Dulse & Blueberry), and Freya (Angelica Root), you’ll be transported to a beverage Valhalla. Their Reykjavik Pink Gin is quite tasty as well.
  • The father-daughter run Og natura distillery makes delicious gin and liqueurs as well as wine and beer. (Iceland’s first winery!) Their gins are fantastic, and they also make the very unique Volcanic Shot. As I love licorice, I find this “hot and spicy” licorice liqueur delicious, and I wish I could find it in the States.

Regarding the food and drink scene of Reykjavik and Iceland on the whole, I’ve barely scratched the surface. I’m going to have to return many more times to feel like I’ve done it justice. (Oh nooo! More foodie adventures!) However, I do feel like I’ve been able to visit some pretty delicious spots thus far. A few details about my favorites to date:

  • I’m not the biggest fan of making breakfast on a regular weekday, but I’m a BIG fan of getting breakfast every day while on holiday. One of my first breakfasts of this trip was at the very cool Prikid Kaffihus (c. 1951) Listed as the oldest café in Reykjavik, Prikid Kaffihus features great food, great atmosphere, live music, and great service. It’s a fine place from which to start your adventures.
  • We were lucky to be in Iceland to celebrate Cream Bun Day (Bolludagur). (Monday before Ash Wednesday and the first day of Lent.) We went to the BakaBaka Bakery & Restaurant (directly next door and up from the entrance to the Icelandic Punk Museum) and enjoyed some very delicious cream buns. They also serve a tasty looking full menu throughout the day. (Sidenote: If you’re not full from all the cream buns, be sure to celebrate Blast Day (Sprengidagur) the following day!)
  • Sometimes you just really need fried rice and Peking duck, wherever you might be in the world. We hit up the Shanghai Restaurant for just that. Yum!
  • Iceland is big on food halls and rightly so. These collections of restaurant stalls contain very tasty, conveniently located options. Be sure to check them out whenever you see them! On this trip, we visited the Pósthús Foodhall and enjoyed a meal from the excellent Finsen restaurant. Everything we ordered was delicious and dining in the public dining hall was fun!
  • Who doesn’t love balls of fried dough, covered with your favorite toppings?? If that sounds tasty, and how can it not, stop in at Loo Koo Mas and enjoy! They specialize in Greek, handmade donuts, and also have ice cream and an assortment of hot beverages. I LOVE their classic donuts coated in honey and sesame seeds. SO GOOD!!
  • If waffles are your thing, head to the supremely adorable Saeta Husid for delicious “bubble” waffles, bagels, and their very unique rolled ice cream. Honestly, this place is too cute and tasty for words.
  • We stopped in at the very cool  Bastard Brew & Food on our last visit for a delicious meal of reindeer burgers. They also feature BBQ, non-reindeer burgers, flatbreads, a great beer selection, and cocktails.
  • 12 Tonar is a very cool record store (yes, actual records!) and café. Located in downtown, it’s a great place to stop in and peruse the licorice donuts and just chill. (While “licorice donuts” is an old-skool term for records, I wonder if they make actual licorice donuts in Iceland. Must investigate.)
  • On our first visit, we arrived on Christmas Eve and needed a place to celebrate. VOX Brasserie & Bar, located in the Hilton Reykjavik Nordica hotel, was the place for such holiday cheer. We enjoyed a lovely buffet in their main dining room, filled with delicious holiday fare. Continuing the hotel-based holiday dining spree, we enjoyed a tasty, fixed-prix Christmas dinner at downtown’s Geiri Smart, located in the Hilton Canopy hotel.
  • Reykjavik is big on ice cream and there are many excellent options. Stop in at Eldur og Ís for delicious ice cream, crepes, and coffee! Located on the famous Rainbow Street in downtown Reykjavik.
  • I basically had my nose pressed up against the window on our last Reykjavik visit, but the store hours and COVID restrictions never seemed to cooperate. This time, however, I was able to enjoy The Sandholt bakery in all of it’s baked-goods glory. WOW! Everything looked amazing and the pastries I tried were fantastic. Next time I’ll be dining in and enjoying one of the amazing breakfast plates I kept seeing come out of the kitchen.
  • I was still full from HOTDOGS #6 and #7, but we still made a stop at Salka Valka for dinner. They had lobster soup on the menu and I’m glad I gave it a try. Delicious! Kristen enjoyed some pretty tasty looking pizza and we both walked out stuffed.
  • There are SO many foodie adventures yet to enjoy, but I have a list building for next time. One such place is the very eclectic-looking Lemmy. Located in one of Reykjavik’s oldest houses and named after famed Motörhead bassist, Lemmy, it features food, nostalgia, music, and drinks. What more could you want? Next visit!

Continuing on with my hotdog adventures, I mentioned HOTDOGS #6 and #7 above. Before we get to that tasty accident, I’ll briefly cover HOTDOG #5.

I’d been trying to visit Pítubarinn, a popular hotdog stand in downtown, but wasn’t having any luck. There are only a few tiny tables inside, and the line was always long. I tried a few times, but never did get to stop. In its place, I tried a little spot along one of the shopping streets in downtown. I’m not a fan of giving negative reviews or bad-mouthing a place, so I’m not going to name names. I will say, however, the place-that-shall-not-be-named had a questionable smell, was very unorganized inside, and the hotdog itself was far from excellent. I ate it, but with great skepticism. I’m not a quitter.

The aforementioned HOTDOGS #6 and #7, on the other hand, were a delicious success. I’d returned to the OG Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur stand for guaranteed hotdog glory. Not only did I get the hotdog I’d ordered, they ACCIDENTALLY gave me a second. (Accidentally, I swear!) Since Kristen was standing next to me when I ordered, they assumed I wanted two hotdogs. While they actually only charged me for one, they handed me two! OH NO! As Kristen doesn’t eat hotdogs (the horror!), and I don’t like to waste food, I took one for the team. I ate BOTH hotdogs. You’re welcome. CRISIS AVERTED. To celebrate my triumph, I later hit up the Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur counter at the 10-11 store (Laugavegur location – open 24/7, hotdogs daily from 10am – 10pm) to pick up a hoodie, as well as some Icelandic hotdog mustard.

Alas, all of the amazing food, art, and scenery, finally brought us to our last night in Reykjavik. Since I still hadn’t seen a proper showing of the Northern Lights, we headed down to the Harpa Concert Hall to try our space-light luck. (Kristen made a solo trek down to Harpa the night before and did indeed see some lights!) We’d checked out the light forecast and were hopeful. After donning our cold weather gear, we hit the snowy streets of Reykjavik and headed down towards the water at around 11pm.

Upon arriving at Harpa, we noticed many other space-light pilgrims were already lined up along the shoreline path. Not more than a couple of minutes after we found our own spot, we noticed the first wispy “clouds” forming overhead. We immediately whipped out our phones and fired up our camera functions. And lo and behold, there they were! The Northern Lights, in all their space-light beauty!

To actually see the lights in person was truly an otherworldly experience. Pictures and video are great, but to see the lights in person (via a lens, of course) was one of the coolest nights of my life. The blue-green, undulating formations were mesmerizing, and I couldn’t get enough. It was freezing cold, and my hands kept going stiff when I’d take off my gloves to use the camera, but whatever. Combined with the crowd’s buzzy excitement and bonding over the sights, it was like nothing I’d ever experienced. I’d nearly get frostbite all over again just to see the show. Next visit!

Space-light follow-up: I miraculously had the opportunity to see another display of the Northern Lights from my home in Washington state. For a few days in May, there was a very strong solar storm which provided great viewing across many of the upper states. It was SO amazing to see them twice in the space of a few months. Additionally, as opposed to the blue-green display in Iceland, this display favored vibrant pinks and purples. AMAZING!!

Seeing the Northern Lights was such a wonderful way to wrap up our most recent adventures in Iceland. On the last trip, during our final walk around town, we ran into a former coworker from Washington state! Half-way around the world, on a random city street, we ran into a friend. On this trip, while we didn’t get to meet up, another friend was in the area! It’s truly a small, small world and not only is Iceland the land of fire, ice, and hotdogs, it’s the land of friends! New friends, old friends, and future friends, the world has so many wonderful relationships to build upon. Keep your eyes and your hearts open.

The only thing left for us to do on this particular trip was to make our way back to the airport via the Flybus and do a final shopping spree at the duty-free store. That Bjork liqueur and Flóki whiskey wasn’t gonna buy itself… And also… I needed to procure HOTDOG #8! WOO!! Okay, and also maybe a delicious, and much deserved Pink Drink from the airport bar. (Gordon’s Pink Gin, tonic, and strawberry – not to be confused with the Starbucks “pink drink.”)

It seems I can’t leave the Keflavik Airport without first hanging out with my TSA friends. Just as was the case on my last return trip, I got pulled aside by the US immigration patrol for a “random” search and interview. Sigh. Of course I complied, and of course nothing was uncovered, but it certainly wasn’t fun – or appreciated. I’m hoping the third time is the no-interview charm when returning home from my next visit. And I didn’t even try to bring back hotdogs!! I deserved that stiff beverage afterwards.

After enjoying my beverage and a hang with the troll in the gift shop, it was time to make our way to the gate. It amazes me how much we were able to pack into the week, including the number of HOTDOGS I enjoyed. As I walked dreamily through the airport, I was already thinking of what adventures my next Icelandic visit would feature. Could I finally poke lava with a stick? Would I get to experience more than six hours of daylight? Would it finally be possible to bring back Icelandic hotdogs?? There are so many possible adventures in this magical country to experience, and I can’t wait to see where I end up next visit. And see how many hotdogs I’m able to enjoy…

Until next time, vertu blessaður and safe travels!

Adventure through the land of fire and ice – and hotdogs – with my custom SPOTIFY PLAYLIST

  • I Sing I Swim – Seabear (from The Ghost That Carried Us Away)
  • Color Decay – Júníus Meyvant (from Floating Harmonies)
  • Way Down We Go – KALEO (from A/B)
  • Immortal – Arca (from Pixel Heart)
  • Heimförin – Ásgeir (from Dýrð í dauðaþögn)
  • HyperballadBjörk (from Post)
  • ÆvintýrSóley (from Ask the Deep)
  • WaterfallVök (from Circles)
  • OralBjörk, Rosalía (from Oral)
  • Think About ThingsDaði Freyr (from Think About Things)
  • Volcano Man – Will Ferrell, My Marianne (from Eurovision Song Contest: The Story of Fire Saga)
  • Look At the Light – Sin Fang (from Flowers)
  • Somewhere – Pascal Pinon (from Twosomeness)
  • Ég vil fá mér kærustu – Hjálmar (from Hjálmar)
  • All The Pretty Girls – KALEO (from A/B)
  • Sunny RoadEmilíana Torrini (from Fisherman’s Woman)
  • Mar – GDRN, Moses Hightower (from Mar)
  • Hoppípolla – Sigur Rós (from Takk…)
  • Ég er Kominn heim – Óðinn Valdimarsson (from Er völlur grær)
  • Old Skin – Arnór Dan, Ólafur Arnalds (from For Now I Am Winter)
  • Crystals – Of Monsters and Men (from Beneath the Skin)
  • Engin landamæri – Atli Örvarsson, Sing Fang (from Flóra)
  • The Sky Is Painted Gray – Ásgeir (from The Sky Is Painted Gray)
  • 10 YearsDaði Freyr (from 10 Years)
  • Jaja Ding Dong – Will Ferrell, My Marianne (from Eurovision Song Contest: The Story of Fire Saga)
Hotdog!
I made this particular hotdog in second grade. It’s been a lifelong love affair with the hotdog…

More I Ate the State Adventures:

I Ate the State – Special Edition: SCOTLAND – Part II (w/special guests – London & Reykjavik!)

To check out Part I, featuring London and Edinburgh, please go HERE

Annnnnnnnnd… we’re back!

It seems like only yesterday when Kristen and I were headed to the Edinburgh airport to continue our Scottish adventures on Orkney Island. It had started snowing, my head felt like a bowling ball and we’d just learned the Northlink Ferries to Orkney had been cancelled due to stormy seas and there were flood warnings on the island. Additionally, flights all over the UK were being cancelled or delayed due to strong winds. The danger of making travel plans during December… However, our flight was still departing on time, so with fingers crossed, we Uber’d on to the airport.

We’d originally planned to take the ferry out of Scrabster, but since we were attempting to cover as much of Scotland as possible on our short holiday, we opted for a flight. (In hindsight, a good call as it would’ve been cancelled!) It seemed like a reasonable savings of time, but factoring in what would end up being the sickest I’ve been in 20 years, seven flights in nine days might not have been prudent. (Seven flights in nine days! What could possibly go wrong?)

The airport scene was relatively calm considering the time of year, but since I was rocking the DayQuil and a bit out of sorts, I may have bumbled my way through airport security. I’m usually fairly well-organized when international checkpoints are involved, but this time, not so much. I seem to recall forgetting to dump my water bottle until the last second and then forgetting altogether to remove my toiletries bag from my carry-on. This, in turn, flagged me going through security and then flagged me for an excellently thorough pat-down. The real win was the security agent being completely unfazed by my use of the toiletries bag to stow the mini liquor gift bottles I’d collected along the way. Come on – alcohol can be used to sterilize things. It’s a first aid essential. It rightly belongs in any well-stocked toiletries bag…

Once we finally made it through security, we were able to relax a bit before our flight. (For the record, Kristen breezed through this and all subsequent security checkpoints. Jerk.) There aren’t a lot of flight options in and out of Orkney and Scottish airline Loganair is the main operator. There also aren’t a lot of passengers going to and from Orkney, so the Loganair waiting area was roomy and low-key. We also had a lovely view of our tartan bedecked chariot parked out on the tarmac.  (On a tarmac note: It’s been a while since I’ve walked on that much tarmac. Aside from the flights in and out of Heathrow, all of the flights we took required walking or busing to the plane and walking up stairs to board the plane. It was refreshing and really lent itself to the adventure aspect and took away a bit of the modern sterility of entering and exiting via a jet bridge.)

LoganAir
Even the planes wear plaid!

Once boarded, I knew we were in for an interesting flight. It was definitely very windy and we were on a smaller plane. The cockpit and pilots were about 10 feet away from my seat, which was cool considering how closed-off the cockpits usually are these days.  The flight itself was relatively short and fairly easy going. There was a bit of turbulence and we did land a bit lopsided on one wheel, but it still didn’t match what we’d experienced during the first leg of our London flight. After just enough time to enjoy a cup of tea and snack we were on the ground, albeit via one wheel, in stormy Kirkwall. (We later learned we were the last flight to make it onto the island that night.)

Interesting tidbit: Loganair offers the world’s shortest flight (90 seconds) from Westray to Papa Westray. (Two of the smaller Orkney Islands) I fully plan on taking this flight next time I’m on Orkney.

Following a very windblown walk across the tarmac, we entered the welcoming warmth of the terminal. The Kirkwall Airport is very small – and I loved it. One check-in counter, one baggage claim conveyor, one little café/gift shop and one car rental desk. It reminded me of the television show Wings, from back in the day… There was also a giant distillery advertisement displayed in the center of the baggage claim area. I liked this place already.

We had arranged a car in advance and after grabbing our luggage, walked 20 feet over to the car rental desk and got everything squared away. The entire process took but a few minutes and we were back outside, beating our way through the rain and wind over to our tiny Ford Focus. And that’s where things got even more interesting…

“You’re drifting to the left, Kristen…” said Dayna, judgmentally from her passenger perch on the left side of the car.

Yes, I may have piously muttered these words a few times throughout our vehicular shenanigans, but in all fairness to Kristen, she was a champion driver throughout our travels. First on Orkney and later through the Highlands, she bravely tackled the absurdity of driving on the wrong side of the road, on the wrong side of the car. She also gracefully humored my sickness and the fact I was quite loopy at times from all the DayQuil. I did do the navigating (and occasional DJ’ing) and got us where we needed to go, but there was no way I was fit to get behind the wheel. Also, having driven in the UK on past visits, it is near impossible to not drift to the left. It’s in our North American DNA. It’s where that car BELONGS…

To say the drive to our lodging in the nearby town of Stromness was stormy would be a hilarious understatement. Not only were we being blown all over the road in our little clown car, it was also raining sideways and the island lanes were rather narrow – with no shoulder. There would be many times over the next few days where we would both cringe and shift (pointlessly) to the right side of the car when larger vehicles were oncoming. (Eeeeeeek!) The rain-induced lack of visibility and gale-force winds also did nothing to improve the situation. But whatever – the Vikings didn’t need visibility or silly paved roads to navigate their way to and around Orkney. I suppose we could rally enough to do it in a Ford Focus…

Even though it was only around 2pm, the winter light was dimming. The relentless rain also contributed to the waning visibility, but the scenery we could make out was gorgeous. The green of the rolling hills, the sweeping ocean views, the quaint little villages, the sheep… Right out of a fairy tale! We could practically feel the history (and wind) swirling around us and as we battled on towards Stromness, we channeled a bit of that Viking bluster to spur us onward. (From within the relative shelter of our heroic Ford Focus, of course.)

As it was mid-December, there weren’t many tourists on the island and it made for much smaller crowds on the roads and in town. This was very good when it came to driving around the narrow village streets and attempting to find parking. And then figuring out how best to maneuver into parking spots via the wrong side of the car and road… Once we did find a lot close to our lodging, we then needed to figure out how and when to pay for the spot. It was a never-ending parade of the clown car.

Located directly on the North Sea, the town of Stromness is a charming seaside haven. It’s also a strategically located port and plays host to the Northlink Ferries along with a bevy of seafaring fishing boats. These very boats – along with the rather sturdy ferry – were all stuck in the harbor when we arrived and rocking wildly with the stormy seas. The winds were like few I’ve ever experienced and near impossible to stand up against, but we did give it our best shot while attempting to document the scene on video. That said, we quickly recognized our defeat and retreated into the safety of The Ferry Inn, located directly across from the ferry terminal.

Hot Tip: Just like Washington State, Scotland and the Northern Isles have an extensive ferry system. It’s possible to reach Orkney from various points on the Scottish mainland as well as ferry to more remote locales such as Iceland, Belgium, Ireland and Norway. It’s always been and remains high on my list to take a ferry over to Norway. It WILL happen one of these days…

Stormy Stromness
The seas were rough when we drove into Stromness. All of the boats were stuck in the harbor.

The Ferry Inn was welcoming and cozy and we were happy to be in out of the storm. It had a full-service bar and restaurant downstairs and when we checked in, our host inquired if we’d be dining onsite. It reminded me very much of the inn I worked at so many years ago, the Ben Loyal Hotel in the village of Tongue. (More on that shortly) As it was the off-season and there didn’t appear to be a lot of dining options open in the vicinity, we said yes and went up to our room to layer up for a quick jaunt around the village.

By the time we got back outside, it was nearly dark and no one else appeared to be braving the wind and rain. Stromness is rather compact and walking around the winding streets was a great way to catch all the tiny details. The hidden closes off the narrow streets, the lights strung from shop to shop, the window-paned doors and cozy entryways – absolutely picturesque. I was sad we wouldn’t be spending much time in this quaint little town.

There were a few shops open, but for the most part the town appeared to be hunkered down. It made for a peaceful and slightly spooky exploration. We stopped in at the Waterfront Gallery, Stromness Books & Prints and the most AMAZING bakery/grocers, Argo’s Bakery. As I’ve typically found in my Scottish adventures – especially in the Highlands – the shopkeepers are usually more than happy to chat and are a great source of knowledge regarding what to see and do in the area. Stromness seemed no exception and it was great to learn a bit about the story of the area. (For instance, Gaelic isn’t spoken in the Northern Isles and they weren’t part of the Scottish clan system. Their Old Norse heritage featured the now-extinct Norn language into the 18th century.)

Once we’d made it back to the inn and I’d de-tangled my wind-ravaged hair for the nineteenth time, we sauntered downstairs to make our dinner reservations. Since it was the holiday season, each table was adorned with traditional Christmas crackers and the dining room was decorated for the festivities. In addition to hotel guests, there were a few tables of locals present and everyone was dressed for the occasion. (Ummm, we didn’t get the memo.) While there was indeed a traditional, British-style Christmas dinner on the menu, I opted to for the locally-caught haddock and chips and Kristen went for… wait for it… a MEAT PIE. Both meals were delicious and I was more than ready to turn in at the end of it all.

A poignant plea from the author: If anyone happens to visit Stromness before I return, PLEASE pick me up some of the Caramel Squares at Argo’s Bakery. I will pay you handsomely. I will do your bidding. Please. Oh, and also please grab me some of their delicious Orkney Fudge. Thanks!

After a mostly restful sleep, it was time leave Stromness and squire ourselves around the island in the Ford Focus. (I say mostly restful as even though our room was located on the second floor, up two narrow stairways and to the interior of the inn, the wind still managed to blow into the hallways and rattle our door all night. Crazy!) We stopped in for a quick breakfast in the restaurant, which was included with our room and headed out to enjoy one of the most incredible days of adventuring I’ve ever experienced.

If I had one word to describe our day spent driving around Orkney, it would be “SPECTACULAR.” Two words? Mind and blowing. It has truly taken me a while to wrap my mind around the depth of history and beauty we experienced within just an eight-hour tour of Orkney. I’m still working on it, but I’ll do my best to convey the sheer magnitude of it all.

We’d planned our first point of discovery to be the seaside Neolithic village of Skara Brae. The storm had dissipated and a beautiful sunrise shone in its wake as we wound around the Orkney back-roads. Beyond beautiful and idyllic, everywhere we looked was a glorious photo op. More of the rolling hills and sheep, but this time we were able to look out across the seaside inlets towards neighboring islands – AND we came across some very adorable hairy ponies! I can’t imagine anyone not being moved by the beauty of Orkney. I can say without any equivocation that I’d move there in a heartbeat.

As Orkney is somewhat compact, it wasn’t long before we’d arrived at Skara Brae. Thanks to it being the off-season and a few minutes before it was technically open, the parking lot was empty. This gave us a few minutes to walk around the grounds and take in the fringe sites. (Which, in and of themselves, would’ve been well worth the travels) In addition to the stunning landscape, the beautifully preserved Skaill House (c. 1600s) sits off to the left of Skara Brae. William Watt, the 7th Laird of Skaill, discovered Skara Brae in 1850 after a particularly bad storm partially unearthed a few of the homes. Skaill House is open April through October with lodging available in their self-catering apartments.

Before visiting Skara Brae proper, we checked out the informative displays in the visitor center followed by the replica house located directly outside. It was interesting to see a fleshed-out version of the most well-preserved home and even more so to realize how little it had actually changed over thousands of years.  Considering Skara Brae was around before the pyramids were constructed and was long abandoned before Stonehenge was built is pretty mind-boggling. Granted, construction techniques have advanced since the later part of the Stone Age, but the fact Skara Brae is still standing speaks volumes to the ingenuity and skill of its inhabitants. Not to say that stone furniture sounds comfortable by modern standards, but a bedroom set that lasts for 5000 years? That’s some serious value and durability!

The path leading down to the village’s seaside location is lined with markers denoting pivotal moments in world history, starting from recent times back to 3100 BC and Skara Brae. It’s a fascinating walk when contemplating the 5000 years of history which has occurred since the residents of Skara Brae were walking that same land. At the end of the path, you arrive at the actual village – the real deal, in all its glory. The profound significance of the sight hit me full-on and I stood there, mouth agape, completely humbled by the history and stories all who had stood there, thousands and thousands of years before.

I would’ve liked to have spent all day exploring the different homes and walking around the shore, but the rain had returned with a vengeance and we had a few other must-see locations to check out before leaving. I don’t think I could ever shake, nor would I want to, the eerie beauty and unpretentious grace of Skara Brae. It is without a doubt one of the most momentous places I’ve ever visited and I’m fairly certain it will be rather difficult to top. But wait – there is another…

Not too far from Skara Brae are the breathtaking Ring of Brodgar and Stones of Stenness. Both sites, along with Skara Brae and the Maeshowe Chambered Cairn combine to form a UNESCO World Heritage site as well as the Heart of Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site. These were next on our list, but by happy accident, we were slightly delayed by a few spots along the way. (There were plenty more distractions to distract the distracted, but we were somewhat able to limit ourselves… Squirrel!)

A few of the incredibly worthwhile distractions we found on the way to the standing stones:

  • I’d learned that Orkney Brewery, home of the delicious Skull Splitter was a short drive away. Since I’d already begun my whisky explorations, it seemed only fair to also invest some time in sampling the local ales. Additionally, Orkney Brewery is the northernmost brewery in the UK! (And the only brewery further north is located in Norway) For the record, I’m very glad we stopped. It did put us a few minutes behind schedule, but the staff was incredibly friendly, the beer was delicious and we had the place all to ourselves. (A theme for the day) I only wish we’d been able to stay on for lunch as the menu looked great!

  • Back on the road, we came upon Earl’s Palace in Birsay. Robert Stewart, 1st Earl of Orkney in the late 1500s and half-brother of Mary Queen of Scots, had this palace built beginning in 1569. It began pouring just as we got out of the car and probably helped save us time getting to all the places we planned to visit. The palace ruins were well marked with informative placards, but we didn’t spend much time reading them in the moment. We quickly walked around the grounds, snapping pictures and taking in the scene before racing back to the car.

  • Directly across the way from Earl’s Palace is Magnus Church and Kirkyard. The current church was built in 1760 with renovations in 1867 and more recently, but a church has stood on the ground since 1064. Walking through the Kirkyard was both fascinating and eerie – especially factoring in the rain and mist.

  • Just around the corner from the palace ruins is an absolutely breathtaking view of the sea and nearby seaside cliffs. There is also a tiny, windswept island across the way featuring a lone, stalwart lighthouse. There are parking areas along the side of the road and it is well worth the time – even if it’s pouring – to take a few moments to stand along the shore and take in the magnificent views.

Officially back on the road to the standing stones, we attempted to dry off before again braving the weather. There were, however, encouraging breaks in the clouds appearing and we raced on, as fast as the clown car would allow on the narrow Orkney roads. The first site we came to was the standing stones at the Ring of Brodgar. Again, we were the only people for miles and as we made our way from the car-park and adjoining trail, the clouds began to further break. What awaited us just ahead was unlike anything I’ve ever beheld…

Ring of Brodgar
Walking up to the mighty Ring of Brodgar…

In short, the 5000-year-old Neolithic Ring of Brodgar is one of the most amazing places I’ve ever been or could ever imagine being. It is ancient, soul-gripping… magical.  It is completely and absolutely mesmerizing. In addition to being stunning all on its own, the backdrop of the Loch of Harray adds a sense of grandeur to the scene which is difficult to fully comprehend or describe.

Unlike the youthful Stonehenge, you’re able to walk right up to the stones of Brodgar. You can touch them, hug them, have a conversation with them, wish-and-hope-and-will-yourself to walk through them to a waiting Jamie Fraser… (I’m not saying I did that. It’s just a story… Right?) The actual circle is about 435 feet across and consists of 36 stones. (There were originally 60!) There is also a stone ditch around the circle and approximately 13 burial mounds in the near vicinity. Some of the standing stones are thin and slab-like, some of them massive and thick, some of them are two stones cleaved together and some of them have the most amazing lichen “artwork” scrawled across their faces. They are all unique and have a story to tell, but what they all have in common is the mystery of why they’re there and their true purpose. And they all seem to possess a quiet, but very present sense of knowing

Just a stone’s thrown down the road are the Stones of Stenness. It’s a smaller circle than Brodgar, but spectacular in that it’s possibly the oldest stone henge in the British Isles. It’s estimated to be around 5400 years old and roughly 500 years older than Brodgar – perhaps a training site for the bigger circle? Training wheels? We briefly visited the area, but as there was one other person already making their rounds, it felt a bit tourist trappy. I mean, come on – we couldn’t be expected to share the scene with someone else. Geez. (In all non-flippant honesty, we simply needed to keep things moving. I very much plan on spending more time taking in Stenness on my next visit.)

Standing Stones of Stenness
5400 years of history!

Note: I’m fairly certain I’ve gotten all the stone and circle puns out of my system, but I can’t be sure. Wheel just have to wait for them to cycle themselves out…

Because we’d caved to distractions along the way, we ended up just missing the last tour to the Maeshowe Chambered Cairn. The gift shop was still open, however, and the very helpful clerk hipped us to the nearby Unstan Chambered Cairn. Smaller, but still epic, it was a few miles away, so we sped off down the road to do some exploring before sunset. We were very sad to miss our chance to investigate Maeshowe, one of the largest and most well-preserved chambered tombs in Europe, but we won’t miss it on our next visit. (Squirrel!)

Orkney Magnets
At least I have a picture of Maeshowe on a magnet!

In keeping with the day’s largely private adventures, no one was around when we got to Unstan. Except, of course, for the farmer on whose land the cairn happens to be located. Just behind his farmhouse, in fact – and you basically park next to the house and head towards his back yard! He paid us no mind as we made ourselves comfortable and trekked off behind his home. To be that nonplussed by having visitors traipse around your property OR to have a significant, ancient burial cairn located in your backyard is pretty mind-bending.

We’d been cautioned to bring flashlights and I’m glad we indeed had some on hand. There was a little light coming into the cairn from the tiny, claustrophobic entry, but it was otherwise fairly dark inside. There were also a few pinpricks of light coming through the miniature portholes in the rounded, grass roof, but they didn’t add much visibility. The structure was constructed of large, flat stones with small cubbies and shelves arranged along its interior walls. It was awe-inspiring to be so casually investigating this 5000-year-old cairn with a couple of flashlights. In the backyard of a farmhouse.

After contemplating the significance of the sights we’d just too quickly visited and enjoying a beautiful sunset from the farmer’s backyard, we took off towards Kirkwall. We had a 7:30pm flight and wanted to spend our last few hours exploring Orkney’s largest town and island capital. Along the way, I’d hoped to check out the UK’s northernmost distillery, Highland Park, but they were closed on Sundays. Same was true for Scapa Distillery, located slightly south of Highland Park. Curses! Next time…

Unstan Sunset
Sunset from the backyard/Unstan Burial Cairn

Though I’d missed out on visiting the whisky distilleries, we were pleasantly greeted by newcomer gin operation, Orkney Distillery as we pulled into town. How convenient! Home to Kirkjuvagr gins, the distillery tasting room was modern yet comfortable and the staff was very knowledgeable and accommodating. I sampled several tasty gins while admiring their harbor view and offering of goods. They also make lovely cocktails and feature a full coffee bar – something for everyone. Additionally, they carry a delicious Orkney Fudge variety created for the distillery which features the Kirkjuvagr gin. (The aforementioned Argo’s Bakery for the win!) That very fudge and a bottle of their deliciously unique spiced gin successfully made their way home to Seattle with me…

After our gin break, we jauntily walked towards the center of town to scope out the sights. We were both getting a bit hungry, but decided to spend the rest of our Kirkwall time visiting some of the lovely shops and ambling through the picturesque streets and alleyways. We did pass by several delicious looking restaurants, but resigned ourselves to further investigating on our next visit. (Orkney Islands – 2020 or bust!)

A few of the spots we visited during our quick Kirkwall excursion:

  • We again arrived mere minutes too late for an official visit, but walking around the grounds of the extraordinary Magnus Cathedral was in and of itself well worth the time. Built in 1137, it is a beautiful example of medieval stonework and craftsmanship. While we were unable to go inside, the gorgeous stained glass windows, elaborate doors and adjoining Kirkyard were plenty to take in and explore. We could even hear the pipe organist practicing what must’ve been a spectacular instrument. It definitely added to the mystique of the crisp, slightly foggy Kirkyard.
  • Just across the street from St. Magnus Cathedral are the Bishop’s and Earl’s Palaces. The Bishop’s Palace was built around the same time as neighboring St. Magnus Cathedral and is a beautiful tribute to the medieval, Norse era of Kirkwall. (Then known as Nordreyjar) The Earl’s Palace was built in the early 1600s and is a fine example of the Renaissance style.

  • Located in the center of town, the Ortak Gallery features a lovely display of local artisan wares. Among those were beautiful, handmade Viking-themed rings which I’m betting Kristen succumbs to ordering online sometime soon… It was also a testament to the ‘world is a small place’ notion when I learned, while chatting with the owner, she used to spend summer holidays in Tongue. She even remembered the owners who happened to run the Ben Loyal Hotel while I worked there. You just never know when you’ll make new friends!
  • Across from St. Magnus Cathedral was the very eclectic, Judith Glue Real Food Café and Shop. I’m still regretting not sampling something from their café as the menu was very interesting, but I enjoyed checking out their unique clothing and goods. I also scored an entertaining magnet celebrating the nearby town of Twatt. There is also a Judith Glue shop in Inverness.
  • Starlings gift shop, located in the center of town, featured a charming assortment of housewares, clothing, handbags and jewelry. There were many items I wished I could’ve fit in my luggage, but I settled for a divinely scented, prosecco-rose candle. Lovely!

Twatt, Orkney
It’s a village in Orkney…

Upon bidding farewell to Kirkwall, we jumped back in our trusty Ford Focus for one last drive through the narrow roads of Orkney. The Sunday evening scene was peaceful and unfettered by other drivers (or rain and gale-force winds) and we made good time to the airport. I was already missing Orkney as we returned our car to its spot and made our way to the lone terminal.

Since we’d neglected to dine in Kirkwall, we were both pretty hungry and opted to check out the airport café. It was a tiny operation, but the menu featured a good list of sandwiches and I was happy to grab a classic egg salad with coleslaw. I’d been hoping it would also include pickle, but alas. (Branston Pickle, the condiment – not the US dill variety) Next time!

Back in the sky with cozy Loganair and again sitting close to the cockpit, it was a much smoother flight back to mainland Scotland. My ears, however, were not enjoying the scene. By this point in my sickness, they had begun to seriously pressurize and this fourth flight of our itinerary was the tipping point for my hearing woes. But as I swallowed some more DayQuil and madly chewed my gum, I convinced myself everything would be just fine… What could possibly go wrong? I confidently looked out the window, sipped my tea, and said goodbye to the dwindling lights and tiny, outer islands of Orkney. We shall meet again!

I really was pretty convinced everything would be fine until we walked off the plane and into the freezing night air of Inverness. Yowsa! Memories of the ice-block feet of our earlier Edinburgh adventures came flooding back and we drew our coats in tighter and scurried towards the Inverness Airport terminal. The scurrying took a little longer than expected, however, as we were routed via a very bizarre, outdoor path around and finally into the terminal. We passed by many doors to the terminal on the way. Perfectly functional-looking doors. Doors which would’ve immediately opened to the warmth of the terminal… Hmph.

17 days* later, we finally made it inside the terminal and were able to warm up while waiting for our luggage. It was a daunting thought, but we then needed to grab a taxi outside to head to our lodging. After a 27-hour** freezing wait at the taxi stand, we were on our way to what would be our very cozy Airbnb in the storied Highland town of Inverness.

*Actual walking time to inside of terminal: Maybe 10 minutes

**Actual time waiting outside to get a taxi: 20 minutes

Inverness Airbnb
Our lovely B&B in Inverness

Inverness is an absolutely lovely place to visit and a must-stop – especially if it’s your first visit to the Highlands. The River Ness serenely glides through the center of town with wonderful inns, restaurants and shops lining both sides. Inverness is the “big city” of the North and serves as the epicenter of commerce for all the Highlands. This is true not only for present day, but also for centuries prior. It is a modern, efficient town, but boasts deep history around every corner. Not only does it serve as a singular holiday destination, it’s an excellent base from which to explore the surrounding greatness of the Highlands.

I was sad we wouldn’t be able to spend much time in town, other than what we spent resting up at our B&B. However, I’ve had the pleasure of visiting Inverness a few times on past Scotland visits and even more frequently when I lived in the Highlands. I’ve stayed in student hostels and enjoyed humble jacket potatoes as well as cozied up in the nicer inns and dined on upscale bistro-fare. There is a great variety of things to see and do and it’s easy to make Inverness work on any budget. It is beautiful and accessible year-round and I don’t think I could ever tire of visiting.

Some of my favorite places in and around Inverness:

  • Inverness is a very walkable town. There are so many fabulous shops and restaurants and you can’t go wrong whatever direction you take in the downtown area. The hop-on/hop-off tour buses can also be found in Inverness and are a great way to grab a rest while still checking out the sights. Be sure to check out the historic Church Street in the downtown area.
  • There are lovely walks and bridges along the River Ness and if you’re up for it, the beautiful little Ness Islands are reachable further upstream via Victorian-era footbridges. Dolphins can also be seen in the river as it goes out to sea – at the mouth as it flows into the Moray Firth. (Where they can definitely be found)
  • The Inverness Student Hostel, part of a chain of cool Scottish hostels, is a great place to stay if you’re on a budget. Many years ago, on my first visit to Inverness, I had very memorable stay there. I was traveling alone and went into the common room one night to hopefully borrow a book. There was a group of people getting ready to play Monopoly and they waved me over to join. We all spoke different languages, but through broken words, phrases and hand gestures we played a hilarious game of Monopoly and had an excellent time. Looking back, I can say without a doubt, it was key in formulating my making-friends-everywhere plan. Check out their sister tour-group MacBackpackers for interesting and sometimes irreverent Highland adventure opportunities. (I haven’t actually had the chance to try them yet, but Kristen swears by them!)
  • For a night of film, theatre and more, check out what’s happening at Eden Court. They also have a great café and restaurant and are located right on the river. I fondly recall an evening with my friend, Jeanne who drove us all the way from Tongue to enjoy a night at the theatre. I think the play was called ‘Dead Guilty’, but I positively remember it starred Hayley Mills. (Star of the original Parent Trap Disney movie)
  • There are many great restaurants and pubs in Inverness. We didn’t get the chance to check out any hot spots on this visit, but both Kitchen Brasserie and its sister restaurant, The Mustard Seed came highly recommended by our very cool Airbnb host.
  • Located not too far out of Inverness lies the prolific Culloden Site of the final and defining battle of the Jacobite Rising, Culloden Moor is steeped in blood and history. Haunting, somber and ill-fated, it stands as the last will and testament to the Scottish clan way of life. In April 1746, the Scottish Highlands fell to the British and Highland life changed forever.

In the morning, we taxied back over to the airport to pick up our next rental car. (No Uber in Inverness) It was much warmer in the light of day and there was no chilly waiting involved to procure our ride. We’d also arranged for an AWD vehicle and were pleased to find ourselves appropriately outfitted with a Mitsubishi Outlander. As it was December and we’d be driving through higher elevations and mountain passes, we wanted a vehicle that would keep us on the road. I sure am glad we made that call.

We had originally planned to drive into the Northwest Highlands, around through Tongue, down along the coast and towards the Isle of Skye, but we were running short and time. Considering a forecast of snow combined with graveled, single-track roads in much of the areas we’d be traveling, it’s for the best we opted for a more southerly route. It’s been a while since I visited Tongue and I was really looking forward to it, but I know I’ll be back. They haven’t heard the last of me…

There are many things I love about the Northern/Northwestern Highlands and the North Coast. They are the lesser-populated part of the Highlands, they are sweeping and remote, the residents are full of stories and character and the history is deep. There are also a lot of sheep. A LOT OF SHEEP.

When I first arrived in Tongue in the mid-90s, I came via the back of a Royal Mail van out of Inverness. (3 hours on single-track, mostly gravel roads) Since there were no buses or trains out of Inverness, and nowhere to return a car rental, there weren’t a lot of transportation options. Hitchhiking was a legit form of travel to the North (still is), but for the low price of £2, you could hop a ride in the back of a mail van. Granted, you had to make quite a few stops along the way, but it could get you where you needed to go. I know the mail routes have been reduced over the years, but I sincerely hope this is still a valid form of transportation.

I arrived at the Ben Loyal Hotel in the remote village of Tongue, sight unseen. I was working in the UK as part of a work exchange program and picked the inn out of a program handbook. I did my “interview” from a pay phone in Edinburgh and the rest is history. I met so many great people during my stay and had such an amazing adventure. I visited Neolithic sites in people’s backyards, (Just like Orkney!) got eaten alive by midges and biting flies, did a lot of hiking and walking through boggy moors and around Ben Loyal and Ben Hope, hung out at Castle Varrich, a 1000-year-old stronghold, found “faerie circles” on tops of hills, ate amazing farm-to-table food everyday (before it was a foodie term), attended a real-deal Ceilidh with the locals, learned a lot about Scotch whisky and cider in the local pub at Tongue Hotel, attended the annual fancy garden event at the House of Tongue (Countess of Sutherland’s estate) and regularly made way for the gazillions of sheep living in the area. (They very much have the right-of-way.) A lot of amazing stuff!

One of these days, I plan on writing a longer version of my often hilarious adventures in Tongue and the Northwestern Highlands, but for now – here are a few more things I love about the area:

  • Head over the Kyle of Tongue Causeway, just past Tongue and drive west along the coast. There are amazing, white sandy beaches and enormous caves along the way. You can even surf the Northwest coast! Smoo Cave is fascinating and the surrounding beaches are uncrowded and gorgeous. Other excellent beaches along the coast are Dornoch Beach in Dornoch, Oldshoremore Beach in Kinlochbervie and Sangobeg Beach in Durness.
  • If caves are your thing, head down the west coast towards Ullapool and check out Inchnadamph and the River Caves/Bone Caves Circuit and the Traligill Caves. (Largest cave system in Scotland) On a related note, keep your eyes peeled and towards the coastline inlets while driving around the coast. There are some very cool examples of what had to have been pirate caves and coves…
  • If you’re a horse lover, be sure to check out the Pony trekking in Sutherland and Caithness Counties. I did some very enjoyable, albeit somewhat awkward, trekking around the heather and bracken-laden hills and hidden lochs. (I say awkward as I hadn’t ridden English saddle at that point. Much different than Western!)
  • Not too far a drive from Tongue and a favorite day trip destination of mine is Cape Wrath, the most northwesterly point of the UK. (I’ve been to the most northwesterly point of the US as well – Cape Flattery in Washington State’s Clallam County! I’m collecting the set…) If you’re looking for the northerly most point of the UK, head to the famous John O’Groats and Dunnet Head near Thurso.
  • On the topic of Thurso, if we didn’t have time to do the two hour supply drive to Inverness, Thurso was the next best bet. An hour’s drive from Tongue, it’s a cute little port town with quaint shops, coastal activities, (including surfing) restaurants and grocery stores. Also located in the area is the town of Scrabster and jumping off point for the ferries to Orkney.
  • Heading down the east coast of the Highlands, you’ll come to Golspie. It’s a lovely coastal town with sandy beaches, shops, restaurants and cozy B&Bs. The local hike to Big Burn is particularly nice. If you’re visiting between April and October, a must-visit spot is the spectacular Dunrobin Castle.
  • A little further northeast of Golspie, is the tiny town of Helmsdale, home to the well done Timespan Heritage Centre as well as several nice shops, restaurants and B&Bs. Helmsdale is a great place to stop along an east coast drive.
  • Regarding driving in the Highlands, I have indeed driven (or been driven) on many of the Northern Highland highways and byways. My current driving-on-the-wrong-side-of-the-car-and-road dream is to tackle the North Coast 500. I want to take a couple of weeks and just drive it all… Yeah!
  • Hopefully I can get a designated driver to join me on the North Coast 500 as I’d also like to thoroughly investigate the Scottish Whisky Trail. Och aye!

Note: I also plan on posting pictures of Tongue and related areas just as soon as I get my photos out of storage – Coming soon! The frustrations of moving…

The Mitsubishi Outlander was definitely more roomy and solid-feeling than the Ford Focus. After getting acquainted with the new set of bells and whistles, we were off towards the beautiful Isle of Skye. Along the way, however, we thought we’d take in a few key spots with Loch Ness and Urquhart Castle being first on the list. (Extra kudos to Kristen for conquering city driving in and around Inverness. It’s a little more daunting from the wrong side of the car and road.)

As we drove on A82 towards Loch Ness, the morning was crisp and bright with low-lying fog drifting over the scenery. It was still fairly cold, however, and most of the fields and pastures were covered in a layer of frost. It was chilly, but absolutely beautiful. The first close-up view of Loch Ness definitely prompted us to brave the temperatures and pull over for a photo op.

As we were again on the road quite early, we arrived at the visitor center just as it was opening. I’ve visited Loch Ness and Urquhart Castle on past adventures, but I could never get tired of wandering around the area. I’ve also taken one of the Jacobite cruises arranged out of Inverness and it was a lovely way to spend the afternoon. The water of Loch Ness has little visibility and it’s truly spellbinding to sail through its murky depths. All that peat provides quite a nice cover for any fantastic beasties living below the surface…

I’m glad we arrived when we did because not too long into our exploration of the castle grounds, one of the tour cruises pulled up to shore, chock full of tourists. We were able to get quite a few good views in before things became much less serene and since we’d both visited before, it all worked out. The history and intrigue of both Loch Ness and the castle ruins are fascinating, making the area a must-visit destination. I do, however, highly recommend visiting during the off-season as it’s a small area and can get very crowded. On our way out, we stopped into the well-appointed gift shop and café for a bit of browsing and a quick snack. And the tour boat passengers hadn’t made their way in yet, so it was nice and peaceful.

Since we needed to make a lot of time on the road that day, off we sped off in the Outlander. Our ultimate destination was the coastal town of Portree, but there were a few gems along the way we knew were going to be worthy distractions. The roads we were traveling were well-maintained and main thoroughfares, but they were still windy and narrow. It was so nice to get a small break from the rain, but as we drove further up into the mountains, we started to notice the snow-covered peaks and hilltops. “We have AWD – What could possibly go wrong?!” and we continued towards the mountains…

The scenery was nothing less than extraordinary. Fresh snow on the mountains, waterfall after waterfall snaking their way down from the hills, beautiful streams running into beautiful lochs… Spectacular! In the summer months, these areas would be sporting amazing displays of heather, bracken, thistle and Scotch broom. (Which in Scotland is simply called… Broom.) However, since we were in the dead of winter, the landscape was speckled with browns, golds and a few stubborn patches of green. The sky was growing greyer as we gained elevation and the whole scene took on a surreal, otherworldly feel. We made a few stops along the way to take in the splendor and the crisp air combined with the stark, raw scenery completely took my breath away. Also, it was really cold.

As I mentioned in the Edinburgh portion of Part I, I am a fan of the movie and television show, Highlander. (But only the first movie. There can be only one.) A key scene towards the beginning of the movie takes place at a castle as the clan is on their way out to battle. That castle – the very castle where that scene was filmed – was just up the road. NERD ALERT – DEFCON 1.

Eilean Donan Castle
There can be only one – Eilean Donan Castle!

In a word, Eilean Donan Castle is stunning. All my Highlander dreams were realized as it came into sight and we pulled into the car park. Situated on a tidal island in the convergence of three lochs and connected to land by its iconic bridge, the castle is the stuff of dreams. It is a much photographed location and no wonder why. Every angle of the castle provides fairy tale views and it takes little imagination to ponder all of the history that’s taken place within its walls. (The current castle was extensively restored in the first part of the 1900s after sitting in ruin since a Jacobite battle in 1719. The land on which the current castle sits has been inhabited since the 6th century with varying degrees of castles occupying the island since the mid-13th century.)

Privately owned by the MacRae family for the past 100 or so years, they regularly allow tours as well as host events and offer lodging in their nearby cottages. You can even get married there! Soooo dreamy… On a related note, it served as the backdrop for romantic comedy, Made of Honor. It has also played host to many other films over the years.

Walking across that bridge and getting to tour inside the castle was an excellent way to spend an hour. Lt. Col. John MacRae-Gilstrap, who purchased the island in 1911, did an amazing job of restoring the castle and various family members have called the castle home over the years. Much to my dismay, the family does not allow photos to be taken inside the castle. There are so many amazing, museum-quality displays and artifacts, I would’ve loved to have taken a few shots. I did, however, pick up a well-done picture book in the visitor center and was also able to take several great photos of the castle exterior.

On my next visit, I plan to investigate the Iron Age brochs of Dun Telve and Dun Trodden as well as take a cruise on Scotland’s last-remaining turntable ferry over to Skye. So many things to do in this area! And always, if you find yourself in the Highlands and are wondering what to do or see next, you need only ask a local. You will likely get several suggestions and a story to go with each one of them.

While the ferry to Skye would’ve been lovely, it was equally enjoyable to drive the expansive bridge over to the famed Isle of Skye. Additionally, I got to live out another nerdy dream as I giddily listened to the Outlander theme song, The Skye Boat Song as we passed “over the bridge to Skye.” (You can listen to the song in the playlist below) I’m fairly certain Kristen was on board as I know she also loves Outlander, but I’m pretty sure she thinks I’m a big nerd, too. Also, I was hopped up on DayQuil…

Skye Bridge
Sing it with me now – Over the sea, to Skyyyyyeeee

The closer we got to Portree, the more the weather seemed to turn and before we knew it, we were back in the wind and rain. It amped up further as we blew into town and located our lodging, appropriately situated on Stormy Hill Road. We’d booked ourselves at the Braeside Guest Rooms and were very happy to find the place nicely appointed and completely charming. We also ended up being the only guests that night, so aside from the crazy weather, it was quite peaceful. (Even the owner was gone for the weekend, leaving us alone and on our honor for the night. I love the Highland community.)

Since we were intent on packing in as much sightseeing as possible that day, we didn’t officially stop to eat. We’d both been collecting tasty morsels from little markets along the way, but were very much ready for a hot and hearty meal. Since Portree is a very walkable, compact town, we donned our rain gear and headed out to find some dinner.

Along the way, as well as after dinner, we walked around the very quaint town square and adjoining streets and investigated the various shops, pubs and restaurants. Portree is a coastal town, with an idyllic harbor and beautiful, colorful homes lining the shoreline – ridiculously picturesque. I very much wish we could’ve spent some of our daylight hours in Portree, but we had to make due with our nocturnal explorations. Accompanied by our old friends, Wind and Rain, of course.

Kilted Yoga
Yep. One of my favorite purchases of the trip… (From Tippecanoe gift shop in Portree)

For dinner, we settled on the cozy Isles Inn, located in the center of town. As the name implies, they also offer lodging as well as host a well-stocked bar. The staff was very friendly and the food, delicious. I enjoyed a venison burger with steak fries and Kristen got a nice salad. Wait a minute. That’s not right… She got the STEAK & MUSHROOM PIE! (Aka: MEAT PIE) I also tried what I now think is my favorite Scotch whisky: BruichladdichThe Classic Laddie Scottish Barley – Unpeated Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky. I’m not a huge fan of the super-peaty, tastes-like-a-Band-Aid whiskies and this whisky was unpeated. SOLD!

After we battled the storm and made it back to our lodging, it was time to turn in for the night. Before that, however, I had a luggage reorg project to tackle. I’d slowly been amassing items along the way and needed to somehow make room in my bags. The next day was our last day of driving – and our practice of cavalierly tossing whatever we’d purchased into the roomy Outlander wasn’t going to work for our tiny carry-on bags. It was time for some serious Tetris action.

Once I’d finished shoving around gingerly arranging the contents of my bags, I celebrated with some NyQuil and turned in for a dreamy sleep. Until the skylight in the bathroom blew open and it rained a bit in the bathroom. Soooo dreamy… It really did sell the story of a lonely night spent in a spooky Scottish inn, however. Perhaps that will be my next writing project…

It was a dark and stormy… morning. We’d planned on driving 15-minutes past Portree to check out The Old Man of Storr, the iconic, pinnacle rock on the Trotternish shoreline. In the same vicinity, we also wanted to investigate the Fairy Glen. However, since the storm showed no signs of letting up and it was rather foggy and misty, it didn’t seem worthwhile to make the trek. What did seem worthwhile was to go visit the nearby Talisker Distillery which conveniently opened at 10am. It was, after all, on the way towards Glencoe and Loch Lomond. It just made sense!

Since whisky on an empty stomach isn’t the best of plans, we set out to first find some breakfast. We settled on The Old Inn, which ended up being just down the road from the Talisker Distillery. It’s a classic Scottish inn tucked along the shores of Loch Harport. The pub and dining room looked cozy when we walked in, but no one seemed to be around. We noticed a few people in the breakfast room, but they appeared to be enjoying the buffet provided for guests of the inn. We did eventually locate the host and while she said their breakfast service was over, she totally made an exception for us and fixed us breakfast anyway. Highland hospitality is the best! And for the record, the breakfast she threw together for us was delicious! My favorite of the trip, in fact.

After breakfast, we drove to the trailhead for the nearby Fairy Pools. (Naturally occurring pools of crystal clear water in the River Brittle) They’re a short hike down to the river at the foot of the Black Cullins, the most formidable of the UK’s mountain ranges. We attempted to get down to the trailhead – or even just take a few pictures outside the car – but the wind and rain had really picked up and quite a bit of fog started rolling in. It was the perfect storm, but not perfect for slogging down a muddy trail, so we retreated back to the Outlander. Next time, Fairy Pools! (And I’ll definitely be investigating some of the climbing/hiking routes in the Black Cullins)

But you know what wasn’t outside in the stormy weather of Skye? That’s right – The Talisker Distillery whisky tour and tasting! Hooray for me!! We got there just a few minutes before the next tour was to begin, so it seemed like delicious fate. However, since Kristen really doesn’t enjoy the smell of whisky mash or the distilling process, she decided to check out some local galleries and leave me to the whisky portion of the morning. I do appreciate a good Scottish gallery, but I really appreciate a good Scotch whiskey…

The tour was very well done and the guide was completely knowledgeable of the legacy of Talisker and its place within the history of whisky. We were lead through the entire process of whisky making and learned of all the nuance and precision it takes to make a batch of whisky. Talisker has been around since 1830 and it was amazing to hear how their techniques have evolved over the years. I was also happy to put to the test my new skills gained at the Scotch Whisky Experience in Edinburgh. I’m pretty sure I passed with flying colors, if I do say so myself.

After visiting the Talisker gift shop and procuring what I thought I could stuff delicately fit in my luggage, we continued on the road towards Glencoe and Loch Lomond. We still had quite a few miles to cover and with the crazy wind and rain, the remaining daylight was half-lit at best. That said, we had to get going as we knew we’d inevitably come upon a few must-stop situations. Take for instance, the classic Sligachan Bridge in nearby Sligachan. I can’t count how many pictures I’ve seen of that bridge over the years and it was mandatory to stop when we came upon it. I’ve also always wanted to see the famous Ben Nevis (the UK’s highest mountain) up close and personal, but with all the rain and fog, it was a no-show. On the upside, we were able to see the mountain’s namesake distillery along our route. Glass half full as they say…

With the daylight continuing to dwindle, the race was on to make it to the fabled Glencoe Mountains. I’ve wanted to check out this area on every prior visit and for whatever reason, my plans have always been thwarted. But not this time – No siree, Bob! We continued to brave the sideways rain, gusting wind and giant lorries (semis) coming at us on the narrow, mountain roads. We stayed the course and didn’t stop to view any of the amazing waterfalls which seemed to be around every corner. We kept going. (Squirrel!) (No, Mr. Squirrel – we’re IGNORING you!)

Waterfalls
Okay, okay, I lied – here’s another picture of waterfalls!

Just before heading into the last stretch of A82 which leads into the heart of the mountains, we came to the small town of Glencoe. It reminded me a bit of Squamish, the last town before you get to Whistler, BC. It had that mountain community vibe where everyone is in love with nature and the mountains – and much of the town is dedicated to that pursuit. My kind of town all the way… I would’ve loved to have stayed longer, but onward we rode.

The light was almost gone and it was a full-on race against time to get to the top of the pass where we could in the least take some pictures. Due to waning light and insane weather, any sort of hiking was out of the question, but we were luckily able to still hit up a couple trailheads and snap some cool photos. Even with grey skies and little light, the area was one of the most breathtaking places I’ve ever been. It was rugged and graceful, all at the same time. It was also foreboding and absolutely possible to see how doomed a place it was for a battle to play out. Case in point, the Massacre of Glencoe of 1692. It’s not difficult to imagine how the narrow glen with its sweeping peaks could prove a hopeless undertaking for escape.

Until our visit, all of my Glencoe mountain experience had been gleaned from film and television. Glencoe has served as backdrop to some fairly epic films and it’s easy to see why. Everywhere you look stretches a spectacular bit of scenery and everywhere you step, a bit of history unfolds in front of you.

A few of the films shot in the Glencoe area:

In short, I CAN’T WAIT to get back to Glencoe. I want to spend several days hiking through the area and finally add some more names to my “munro bagging” list.  (Ben Loyal will always be my first, but it’s time to play the field.) I’d also like to visit in the late summer/early fall when the days are at their longest and there’s no need to scramble for light. I remember late August in Tongue and hiking in nearly full daylight at midnight… Amazing!

Since it was now dark, there were a few places we had to strike from our list. It was sad, but a return in the late summer months will add plenty more opportunity to see everything. I’m counting the days!

A few of the places on the docket for the next trip:

  • If it’s a summer visit, there won’t be any skiing opportunities, but Glencoe Mountain offers hiking in the summer and skiing in the winter. Sadly, even if we’d been able to drive up to the resort, there wasn’t quite enough snow for skiing yet. It does sound like they received a good amount of snow after we left, however. Also, I really want to stay in one of their micro lodges!
  • We’d hoped to get over to the town of Fort William, but it wasn’t meant to be. Site of much history, its central Highland location makes it a great port of exploration for the surrounding areas. Located nearby is the famous Glenfinnan Viaduct. (Hogwarts Express, anyone?) Take a ride on The Jacobite steam train and live out your Hogwarts dreams!
  • I will definitely be hiking down to the fascinating Devil’s Pulpit on my next trip. Located in Finnich Glen near Glasgow and Loch Lomond, it’s famous for its crimson-tinted water. (Resulting from the red sandstone rather than anything nefarious.) The area also served as the “liar’s spring” in an episode of Outlander.

Another area which would be much more enjoyably experienced in the light is the drive along Loch Lomond. We took A82 towards Glasgow as it goes through Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park and we’d both always wanted to check out the area. What I’m sure is a beautiful drive by daylight, is a gauntlet of peril by night. Crazy curves, super narrow lanes, major potholes, standing water, falling rocks and the intrepid theme of our trip, wind and rain, all stopped in to say hello! Many more kudos to Kristen for taking on the insanity. I hope her white knuckles have returned to their normal state.

Suffice to say, we were incredibly relieved to arrive at our Airbnb, located just outside of Glasgow and interestingly named, Witches Hat. In addition to the roof of the main home indeed resembling a witch’s hat, our tree house lodging in the backyard was beyond unique. That’s right – a TREE HOUSE! A tree house that jumped right out of a Tolkien story, I might add.

Once ensconced in the Hobbit hole, we took a few minutes to relax before formulating our dinner plans. For the record, I want an exact replica of that tree house in my own backyard. (When I actually have a backyard – or tree – to speak of) Remarkably packed inside was a decently sized bathroom with a full shower, a mini-kitchen cubby area, two very comfortable twin beds and the most adorable doors ever. (Mind yer heid!) Again, since we arrived late and left early the next day, we were only able to view our surroundings in the dark. Next time!

For dinner, we drove into the nearby town of Drymen. It was a cute little town and we settled on a place recommended by our Airbnb hosts called The Drymen Inn. Since it was to be our last proper meal in Scotland, we wanted to find a nice place. And by “nice place”, this meant it needed to have both MEAT PIES and good whisky. The Drymen Inn scored high on both fronts and a tasty last supper was had by all. It also was the carb-filled finale to our action-packed day and I’m pretty sure we were passed out within moments of returning to the tree house. Zzzzzzzz…

The Drymen Inn
My last meal in Scotland. 😦 Just out of frame… Kristen’s MEAT PIE! (Also note the hot toddy on the top right.)

 Very early the next morning, we got ourselves together, minded our heids on the way out the door and hit the road towards the Glasgow Airport. Because of our time crunch, we weren’t able to check out Glasgow, but after observing the morning traffic, I’m happy we didn’t have to navigate through much of it. I would, however, love to properly visit Glasgow on my next Scottish excursion as I’ve not yet been. (At which time I will happily make use of Glasgow’s extensive public transportation system) I might also consider flying directly into Glasgow rather than stopping first in London as it’s a strategically located jumping-off point for many Highland adventures.

After finally figuring out how to access the airport car rental area, we returned the Outlander and hightailed it through the chilly morning air and into the terminal. (Fare thee well, WRONG side of the car and road!) Aside from our flights home, this would be our last flight of the trip and my ears were seriously relieved. Adding to my relief was the fact I’d miraculously made it through airport security unscathed and unsearched. I was still deliriously ill, but managed to keep it together long enough to remember the drill this time.

To say I was looking forward to that afternoon’s activities would be putting is very lightly. I’ve previously confessed to being a total Harry Potter fan girl. This is an absolutely truthful statement and the closer we came to actually arriving on the WB lot, located just outside of London, the more I had to acknowledge just how big a fan I actually am. I LOVE HARRY POTTER!! There. I’ve said it. I am not ashamed. #GRYFFINDOR4LIFE

Upon arriving at Gatwick Airport (the day before they had the crazy shutdowns due to drones!), we needed to figure out the best means of transport to the Warner Bros lot. Keeping on theme, we were on a fairly tight schedule and decided a taxi would be the quickest option. (We had to make a 2pm tour on the lot!) However, after learning it would be around $200 (including tip) via a traditional Black Cab, we dialed up the Uber app and made it there for $108. I love the traditional London Black Cabs, but it’s hard to ignore a near $100 fare difference. There are many other transportation options to the lot and if you have the time, most are more economical.

Pro Tip: It is absolutely necessary to buy your Harry Potter tour tickets well before your arrival. It is an incredibly popular tour and tickets sell out well in advance. This should be considered non-negotiable if you indeed want to visit the lot.

It was a gorgeous, sunny day in London and our ride to the lot was fairly quick. We arrived at the studio in plenty of time to make the 2pm tour and queued up to go through security. (Thankfully not quite as involved as the airport, but still thorough.) Because we’d come directly from the airport, we needed to have our luggage both searched and stowed. They do have a very efficient baggage check, however, so it wasn’t that big a deal. Once we were all sorted, we ventured towards the inner sanctum sanctorum of all things Harry Potter.

Even simply walking down the main corridor to get to the tour waiting area was cool. It was lined with quotes from the books and just the scope and scale of it signaled the actual tour was going to be much grander still. Eventually, it leads to the main waiting area which also hosts a coffee shop (Starbucks – heh) and cafeteria. There is also an entrance to the main gift shop, but since we figured the tour would likely end at the gift shop, we refrained from purchasing anything. (We were right – it did.) (Also, why didn’t I look to see if they had HOGWARTS “you are here” mugs at the Starbucks?? IDIOT.)

They allowed our tour group to queue up earlier than expected and we made it inside by 1:30. Hooray! More Harry Potter time! Once inside, you learn about the tour in two presentation rooms, the second taking place before the grand doors to the Hogwarts dining hall…

It was AMAZING! We were there just before the holidays, so the dining hall was decorated in a “Hogwarts at Christmas” theme. All of the tables were laid for a holiday feast, the enormous fireplaces were lit (w/FX) and all the house robes and costumes were represented along the walls. In addition, the front section was set up for a holiday party, complete with Hogwarts orchestra. It was simply spectacular and I could’ve spent hours just walking around that scene alone.

Once through the dining hall, you’re left on your own to explore the displays at your leisure. Everything you could possibly imagine from the films was present and displayed in grand form. And everything was the real deal – all of the actual props, costumes, sets, creatures, etc. – All displayed in the actual studio where it was filmed! The moving staircases, props from the Room of Requirement, the portraits (the fat lady!), the flying car, Hagrid’s motorcycle, the ENTIRE Forbidden Forest (complete with spiders), Dumbledore’s office and staircase, the Gryffindor dorm room, a full-size Gringotts and Diagon Alley representation, the Ministry of Magic, Voldemort’s tombstone and re-creation of the Death Eater’s dining room scene in the final film… IT WAS AMAZING!!! And that was just the first section of displays.

Note: It looks like the upcoming tour feature will be ‘Gringotts Wizarding Bank.’ (April ’19) I’m so happy to have seen Hogwarts at Christmas, but I’m SO sad to have missed Gringotts. Next time!

About halfway through the tour, when you’re rightly in need of a snack, you enter the lot commissary. They actually have a Butterbeer bar where you can sample both Butterbeer AND Butterbeer ice cream. (Both are non-alcoholic) Clearly, I had an obligation to try them both! Duh. Being sick, creamy ice cream wasn’t terribly appealing, but I took one for the team and muggled through. For the record, Butterbeer in both forms has a distinct butterscotch flavor and both were really quite good. I even purchased them in their souvenir mug and dish set! (Of course I did) The crowning achievement of the whole affair, however, was the fact “Butterbeer” was listed on my credit card statement when I returned home. It’s rare that something on my credit card statement makes me smile.

WB Harry Potter Lot Tour
Butterbeer!!!

After finishing my delicious Butterbeer feast, we exited to the outdoor portion of the tour to take in the actual Knight Bus, No. 4 Privet Drive (you can go inside!), the rickety covered bridge from Hogwarts, the ruined Potter house in Godric’s Hollow and the Wizard’s Chess pieces! And regardless of it being a beautiful, sunny day with blue skies, the magic of Hollywood made sure it was snowing outside. Christmas at Hogwarts, indeed!

Back inside, and gleefully beginning to suffer from Harry Potter overload, we still had yet to visit and walk through the actual Hogwarts Express, (“Anything from the trolley, dears?”), investigate the Visual FX and creature shops, check out the original Concept art, peruse Ollivanders’ wand stock, check out Snape’s classroom, circle a built-to-scale replica of the entire grounds of Hogwarts (amazing!) and finally arrive back at the epic gift shop. Even just writing all of this down blows my mind – I can’t believe we saw as much as we did in that short span of time.

Since I’d been so good about not making any Harry Potter purchases to that point, all bets were off as I entered the main gift shop. Did I have any room left in my luggage? No. Did I care? NO. With a little bit of elbow grease and channeling of Hermione’s magic bag, I fit a Gryffindor sweater, Gryffindor PJs, various magnets and shot glasses (HA!) and assorted other bits and baubles into my bag for the journey home. #ACCIOBIGGERSUITCASE

Sadly, our time at the Harry Potter tour had come to an end and it was time to depart. I will definitely return, but I could’ve easily spent all day roaming around the lot. Alas, the Hogwarts Express, (AKA: the Harry Potter Studio Tour Shuttle) was leaving for nearby Watford where we would board the Tube and head back to London Kings Cross. And the journey came full circle…

WB Harry Potter Lot Tour
Our ride back to Kings Cross

After a long day of nerding out, we arrived back at London Kings Cross and set out for our Airbnb which was supposedly located nearby. Long story, short – it was technically located nearby, but we took a wrong turn out of the Tube station and ended up walking 45min out of our way to get to our destination. My sickened body was prepared for a 10 or so minute walk, but definitely not a long-haul sort of operation. I was so completely relieved when we eventually made it to our place. Granted, we walked through the always amazing Kings Cross neighborhood, passing the glorious St Pancras Renaissance Hotel and St. Pancras train station (Catch the Eurostar train to Paris!), but I was very much ready for a rest – and some food!

Luckily, we were in a stellar neighborhood for dining options and after a short walk around the area, we settled on the funky and delicious Piebury Corner. As mentioned in Part I, I have an affinity for Scotch Eggs and Piebury Corner had a spectacular selection. In addition, they also had Kristen’s favorite… MEAT PIES! Apparently, the same maker of Scotch eggs for Buckingham Palace also makes the Scotch eggs for Piebury Corner. If they’re good enough for the Queen, they’re good enough for ME. (A sentiment also echoed on the Piebury Corner website)

On the way back to our flat, we passed by the iconic Scala concert hall and theatre. It is truly amazing to note just how many gems are located around every corner in London. I honestly don’t think one could ever run out of new things to see and do in London. (But I’d sure like to give it a go…) Once we arrived back at our very tidy and comfortable Airbnb, we both took a little time to re-strategize our luggage situation and then promptly passed out.

All journeys must come to an end… And in the spirit of The Hobbit, it was a “there and back again” sort of feeling that last morning as we readied ourselves for the Heathrow trek. Our flight wasn’t until noon, but we needed to get there via the Tube and wanted to allow plenty of time to deal with the morning commute and airport security. As we headed down the street towards the Tube station, a man came running out of the café on the street level of our flat. He turned out to be the owner of the Airbnb (and café) and was coming out to see if we wanted coffee or tea before we left – and to make sure our stay had been pleasant. We weren’t able to stay for coffee, but he made sure we had some Kit-Kats for the road and sent us on our way. Such lovely hospitality all throughout our journey!

Once back at Heathrow and through our last round of airport security, we did indeed find a nice spot for breakfast and savored a brief respite before the long flights back to Seattle. I was looking forward to spending a little more time in Reykjavik, but can’t say my ears were looking forward to a full day of flight. Taking time to appreciate a final meal in the UK was a great way to say goodbye and I was very sad as we boarded our flight for home. But I’ll be back in no time!

The flights home were wonderfully uneventful and our break in Reykjavik was short, but entertaining. I’m not gonna lie – I’m pretty impressed with just how many more items I stuffed daintily stowed in my carry-on for the flight home. I’m also fairly impressed with how many back-to-back movies I watched on the way back. The DayQuil had somewhat stopped working by that point and I knew I was in for a battle when I was finally able to collapse in my own bed. (i.e. double ear infection, double bronchitis, a sinus infection, two trips to Urgent Care, two rounds of antibiotics and several additional missed days of work. WOO!) Until that time, however, I kept staring at that tiny screen on the seat in front of me, whilst the guy behind me continued to kick my seat… You never know when you’re going to make a new friend!

The Goods
Some of the items I gingerly fit in my luggage… >;-)

In closing, one of the most profound and enduring things I’ve learned in my ongoing travels, is just how similar and connected we all are. Love, comfort, laughter, good food, music, friends, family – None of these themes are exclusive to any one ethnicity, religion, country or culture. They are fundamental pieces of everyone’s story and by reaching out and sharing and experiencing traditions, how can we not grow in understanding and respect for one another? Everyone has a story. Everyone comes from somewhere. Get out there and share your story – and gather new ones from the friends you make along the way. Eat the state. Eat the country. Eat the WORLD!

Slàinte mhath!

Eilean Donan
I’ll never get enough of this view. THERE CAN BE ONLY ONE!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I Ate the State: Scottish Tour of Destiny – The Spotify Playlist

  • It’s Oh So Quiet – Björk (from Post)
  • Untitled #3 – Samskeyti – Sigur Rós (from album () )
  • Prologue – John Williams (from Harry Potter & the Sorcerer’s Stone Original Motion Picture Soundtrack)
  • You Do Something to Me – Paul Weller (from Stanley Road)
  • Then I Met You – The Proclaimers (from Sunshine on Leith)
  • Un Flambeau, Jeannette Isabelle – Loreena McKennitt (from A Midwinter’s Night Dream)
  • God Rest Ye Merry Gentlemen – Loreena McKennitt (from A Winter Garden – Five Songs for the Season)
  • Standing Stones – Loreena McKennitt (from Parallel Dreams)
  • Standing Stones – Jeremy Soule (from The Elder Scrolls V: Skyrim – Original Game Soundtrack)
  • Stonehenge – Ylvis (from Stonehenge – Single)
  • Who Wants to Live Forever – Queen (from Greatest Hits II)
  • Princes of the Universe – Queen (from A Kind of Magic)
  • Outlander – The Skye Boat Song (Castle Leoch Version) – Bear McCreary feat. Raya Yarbrough (from Outlander: Season 1, Vol. 1 – Original Television Soundtrack)
  • Bonny Portmore – Loreena McKennitt (from The Visit)
  • Hedwig’s Theme – John Williams (from Harry Potter & the Sorcerer’s Stone Original Motion Picture Soundtrack)
  • Holding Back the Years – Simply Red (from Picture Book)
  • Whisper to a Scream (Birds Fly) – The Icicle Works (from The Icicle Works)
  • Melt with You – Modern English (from After the Snow)
  • End of a Century – Blur (from Parklife)
  • Stillness in Time – Jamiroquai (from The Return of the Space Cowboy)
  • Birds – Kate Nash (from Made of Bricks)
  • Wings of Speed – Paul Weller (from Stanley Road)
  • I Miss You – Björk (from Post)
  • Svefn-g-englar – Sigur Rós (from Ágætis byrjun)
  • Aurora Borealis – Ylvis (from Stories from Norway: The Andøya Rocket Incident)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

More I Ate the State Adventures:

I Ate the State – Special Edition: SCOTLAND – Part I (w/special guests – London & Reykjavik)

As far back as I can remember, I’ve had a wanderlust. Whether as a child sneaking off to investigate the neighborhood or as a road-tripping adult discovering the next state over, exploring has long been core to my identity. I’ve always loved the sense of home and belonging, but it seemed so much more poignant upon returning from an adventure. I was excited to be home with family, but equally excited to share stories of the new friends and family I’d met along the way. Those feelings were exponentially intensified when I took my first trip abroad. The world suddenly became very large and very small, all at the same time and I was amazed at how connected I felt to people and places on the other side of the planet. The idea firmly took root that we all have many ‘homes’ and ‘families’ – all over the world. There was simply no turning back from the amazing sense of scope and wonder I had experienced.

I’ve been completely changed and moved by chance encounters with strangers over the years – some of whom I’d never see again and some who have now become dear friends and family. If only one of my tales has moved someone I’ve met along the way and inspired their own sense of wanderlust or of belonging on the other side of the world, I will count myself lucky among storytellers.

And on that note, a few tales from my most recent adventure abroad…

Morning Glow
A dreamy morning drive to to Loch Ness

As my friend Kristen and I embarked upon what we had dubbed our Scottish Tour of Destiny, I was a few days into a nasty cold, winter travel conditions were in effect, there were only a few hours of light per day in the areas we were headed and we’d planned an action-packed itinerary with multiple flights to make it work… What could possibly go wrong? (Which would soon become the catchphrase of the journey…) Throw in driving on the wrong side of the road (and the wrong side of the car) through torrential rain and gale-force winds and we had ourselves an epic adventure in the making.

We’d taken advantage of an airfare sale through Icelandair earlier in the year, so our outbound and return flights included layovers in Reykjavik. (I’ve always wanted to visit Iceland and why not do it for free!) On the day of our departure, we got to the airport in plenty of time, security was relatively easy-going and we had ample time to relax before boarding our flight to Reykjavik. But then, just as we were to begin boarding, it was announced we’d be departing FOUR hours late as the AC wasn’t working on the plane and they’d have to find us a new one.  This also meant we’d be missing our connecting flight to London and likely our entire first day in London. (Pro tip: Don’t plan anything for the first 36 hours of a trip that requires advance-purchase tickets. We almost opted to do the Harry Potter lot tour our first day and are SO glad we didn’t!)

While we lingered at our home airport, stretching out the $15 food vouchers the airline had given us, we chatted with fellow passengers and generally passed the time. It’s fascinating, the stories you’ll hear when randomly visiting with strangers. There were also a few passengers who were definitely of the ‘glass half empty (if that)’ variety and they had no trouble dragging everyone else into their world. Never mind we were all in the same boat, so to speak. (Insert eye roll *here*) Just be cool. Harassing the airline desk attendants isn’t going to get you there any faster… We did, however, meet some pretty cool people and make a friend or two along the way.

First Meal
Not quite Scottish fare, but we were stuck at our home airport for a bit…

One woman in particular, Karen, was on the way to help her son move to Finland. She was transporting a rather large load of belongings for him and was worried the luggage wouldn’t follow on her new route. We were all being placed on new connections out of Reykjavik, but the airline wasn’t updating anyone until we arrived in Iceland – and the way the flights were looking, it seemed like we’d be staying the night in Reykjavik while things were sorted. It all felt like a pretty nebulous crap-shoot…To make matters worse for Karen, she didn’t have a cell phone and had packed her list of phone numbers in what was supposed to be her carry-on. Which they annoyingly made her check at the gate… (Something similar happened to Kristen and our foolproof, don’t-have-to-worry-about-checked-luggage-not-making-the short-connection plan was thwarted. Airlines and their shrinking carry-on allowances… Gah!)

Because Karen had no phone or phone numbers, she was unable to alert her son to her travel changes and he would likely be very worried. She did, however, know the email address of her other son. I used my phone to email him – hoping he wouldn’t dismiss the message as spam – and alert him to the changes. He, in turn, got a hold of his brother, gave him the scoop and got back to me. Technology! When we finally arrived in Reykjavik, I let Karen borrow my phone to call her son – crisis averted and all was well.

I’ve definitely benefited from the kindness of strangers on my own journeys and it was nice to pay it forward this time. Because we’d chosen to strike up a random conversation and get to know a stranger, we were all able to pass the time more enjoyably, everyone got where they needed to go (and with luggage!) and we made a new friend. One with whom I ended up having much in common! I also have family in Finland, we both share a lifelong wanderlust and have a knack for meeting people along the way. You just never know when you’re going to make a new friend. (Her seat was even next to Kristen on the flight – kismet!)

After we finally boarded our flight, we were on our way to snowy Iceland. It was stormy, but things were off to a decent start when all of the sudden the turbulence began. I’m a pretty mellow flier, but this was turbulence the likes of which I’ve rarely experienced – some of the worst ever, in fact. (I overheard a flight attendant saying it was the worst she’d experienced in 24 years.) The oxygen didn’t deploy, but people were actually screaming – and I did find myself thinking, “Wow – is this how it’s going to end??” (We also weren’t even out of Washington State yet!) Things did eventually settle down, but it was one of those experiences where you make fast friends with the strangers next to you… Even more friends along the way! It may have also lead to a few glasses of wine during the flight… Heh.

While we didn’t end up staying the night in Reykjavik, we did spend an entire morning and afternoon hanging out at the airport waiting for our rescheduled connection. (The sun rose at 11am and set around 3pm!) Icelandair also gave us rather large vouchers to spend on food, so we entertained ourselves by sampling Icelandic fare and doing some shopping. The main part of the airport is quite modern and open and it was actually enjoyable to hang out and explore. The international departure section of the airport, however, was a long, narrow gauntlet of crowded confusion. I even had the “pleasure” of running through the airport, dodging other travelers as I attempted to get to my departure gate. (They only made ONE announcement and it happened to be the “final” one. My sickly lungs were not happy with the situation…) Once we made it onto our London connection, everything smoothed out. The flight was calm and aside from the one hour circle-tour we were forced to endure over Heathrow, we finally touched down in merry old England.

With the craziness of our journey to London finally at an end, we arranged an Uber to our first night of lodging. (Uber is now in most of the major UK cities) As it was now dark and later in the evening, it was a little tricky finding our way down to the 100-year old Danish fishing barge situated on the shores of the River Thames. With a little help from a local shopkeeper, we found our way and were greeted by our lovely hosts. You never know what gems you’re going to find on Airbnb and this was definitely one of them. Granted, for someone getting sicker by the hour, sleeping on a drafty, vintage barge might not have been the best laid plan. However, for sheer uniqueness, it was worth it and I’m glad we braved the cold. Additionally, our hosts were incredibly kind and very understanding about our late arrival and gave us several great tips about getting around London. It was also pretty spectacular to wake up to a brilliantly sunny morning on the Thames.

As we’d missed our first day in London, we were forced to pare down our sightseeing before heading on to Edinburgh that afternoon. I’ve had the pleasure of visiting London several times in the past, so it wasn’t a total tragedy – and we knew we’d have another partial day at the end of the trip. That said, we still wanted to make the most of the few hours we had and tried to pack in as much as possible. After a hot cup of tea and a round of DayQuil, I was ready to go!

Since we’d booked our train to Edinburgh out of London Kings Cross, we took the Tube over from our spot on the Thames. Once at Kings Cross, we located the Excess Baggage shop to temporarily stow our luggage (I love this service!) and immediately opted to check out the Harry Potter shop at Platform 9 ¾ . I’m not gonna lie – I took a few dorky pics of the Platform 9 ¾ wall. Being a bit of a Harry Potter fan girl, it was tough to make it out of the shop without making major purchases. However, since we knew we’d be hitting up the mother-lode Harry Potter studio lot tour later on our trip, we muddled through.

Pro Tip: Arrange your long distance UK train trips ahead of time using the Trainline app or website. Trainline is indispensable! Also invest in an Oyster Card once you get to London. You can find card dispensing machines in all major Tube stations. Another helpful travel aide is the City Mapper Transit Navigation app. It’s great for giving you the quickest route and transportation type to get where you’re going.  (Works in many major cities around the world!)

Next on the agenda was to grab a quick lunch while cramming in as much sightseeing as possible. We made a quick pit stop at the *Pret A Manger shop at Kings Cross, but our main foodie pilgrimage was a visit to one of my favorite places on the planet, Fortnum and Mason. (Supplying London with delicious wares since 1707!) I stop in every time I visit London and it’s near impossible to leave the store without a big basket of delectable goods. Sadly, as we were only on Day 2 of our journey and had very limited luggage space, I had to greatly restrain my purchasing. However, I did stock up for the train ride with a Scotch egg, shrimp sandwich, dreamy Turkish Delight and assorted baked goods from their downstairs deli counters. For the record, I don’t remotely care how crass I looked as I shoved that Scotch egg down my gullet while standing outside the store. Fancy store entry or not – that Scotch egg needed to be eaten and STAT. It was DELICIOUS.

* London has no shortage of delicious, grab-and-go food options, but the main train and tube stations are a fine place to grab tasty sustenance on the run. Not to mention, a great place to check out trendy shops, bookstore, pharmacies, etc. Very convenient!

After fueling up on Scotch eggs and a fresh round of DayQuil, we popped in next door to Hatchard’s bookshop. (Their nearby Piccadilly location is London’s oldest bookshop, c. 1787) Aside from taking in the multi-floor shop, Kristen was also on the hunt for an Edinburgh “pop-up” map and they had an extensive map and travel guide section. I was also hoping to stop in at The Royal Academy of Arts, located just across the way from Fortnum & Mason, but we were running short on time and needed to get back to Kings Cross. I’ve visited the Royal Academy on past adventures, but never tire of taking in the amazing displays. Also not to be missed in the immediate vicinity is the tourist spectacle that is Piccadilly Circus. Jumbotron advertisement screens, crazy traffic, double-decker buses – Take it all in!

Back at Kings Cross, while waiting for our train to begin boarding, we met a little boy and his somewhat weary grandmother. Not only was he incredibly chatty and animated, he took it upon himself to entertain us with several tunes from his school’s recent Christmas pageant. Sort of felt like a scene out of Love Actually… It was a fairly amusing way to pass the time and a nice accompaniment to contemplating all the things I love about London and places I’ve visited on past adventures.

(Note: This is but a tiny tasting. I’m pretty sure you could live a lifetime in London and never see it all!)

  • National Gallery – Located in Trafalgar Square. Hands down, a must visit gallery. Rubens, Titian, Cezanne, Seurat, Monet, Van Gogh, Rembrandt, Gainsborough, Michelangelo, Raphael, da Vinci, Botticelli – COME ON!!!
  • National Portrait Gallery – Also near Trafalgar Square and not to be missed!
  • The Regents Park and Primrose Hill – I used to stay at the nearby International Students House during my earlier visits to London and spent a lot of time at Regents Park. It’s lovely and also home to the London Zoo and the Open Air Theatre. (Shakespeare in the park – and more!) Also close to Regents Park is Baker Street and the Sherlock Holmes Museum (221b) and the original Madame Tussauds. (c. 1884)
  • Hyde Park – A London classic. You can’t go wrong with a visit to Hyde Park. It’s beautiful, expansive and always entertaining. The willow trees and swans of The Serpentine are stunning, the Rose Garden absolutely beautiful and Speaker’s Corner is never dull.
  • Greenwich Park (UNESCO World Heritage Site) – Stand on the Prime Meridian and experience the impetus of modern measurement. (Greenwich Mean Time has been the standard of timekeeping since 1884) Pop into the Royal Observatory (they offer classes) and check out the beauty of the Cosmos at the London Planetarium. The famous Cutty Sark is also “harbored” at the park.
  • Tower of London (UNESCO World Heritage Site) – The storied palace grounds, the imposing Tower of London ravens, the haunted chambers, the famous prisoners, the daunting fortress walls, the expansive armory, the British crown jewels – An amazing display of history and intrigue to explore!
  • Harrods – Quintessential shopping in the heart of London. Spectacle, excess, delicious treats, delectable dining, things you could never afford – all on 7 floors, in 330 departments!! Why not??
  • Marks and Spencer – Check out the Oxford Street flagship store for a bit of classic British shopping. I swear by their tights and their knickers are ever the UK favourite. I’m also fond of grocery shopping in their food section.
  • The British Museum – One of the most amazing museums of ALL TIME. I can’t say enough. Go there!! See statues from the Parthenon, take in the amazing Egyptian wing – marvel at the Rosetta Stone! Honestly. Don’t miss it!
  • Notting Hill – Ridiculously charming, funky and entertaining London neighborhood w/colorful houses, cool shops and clubs and meandering roads. Check out Portobello Road on Fridays and Saturdays for the full market experience, complete with amazing antique vendors. The spectacular Natural History Museum is nearby and a must-see for any lover of epic fossils – dinosaurs and more!
  • Buckingham Palace – For all things royal. Imagine yourself as an extra in The Crown or Victoria and channel the long history of the English / British monarchy. (Not all having taken place at Buckingham Palace, of course)
  • Westminster Abbey (UNESCO World Heritage Site) – Over 1000 years of history, the abbey is home to all British coronations since 1066 and has played host to a bevy of weddings, funerals and epic moments in world history.
  • Kensington Palace is one of my favorite places to visit in London. Former home of Princess Diana and present home to her sons and their families, it is also home to the lovely Orangery at Kensington Gardens and Kensington Gardens, If you’re in need of a traditional high tea experience, the Kensington Palace Pavilion and Tea Room is the only place you can have traditional afternoon tea on royal palace grounds.
  • Houses of Parliament – The counterpart to the royal set, the stunning Houses of Parliament with its iconic Big Ben is the governing arm of modern Britain and its constitutes. (Note: Big Ben is currently undergoing a 4 year renovation as of 2017, including the Elizabeth Tower / Great Bell (Big Ben) and Great Clock)
  • In addition to the incredibly convenient and extensive London Tube, take a Cruise on the Thames to see London from a different angle – or hop on/hop off one of the classic double-decker bus tours for a best-of-London extravaganza. There are so many ways to see and enjoy London!

Since we were leaving later in the afternoon, there wasn’t much scenery to enjoy along the way to Edinburgh. Winter nights fall quickly and most of the journey was spent simultaneously nodding off to NyQuil and defending my personal space from the guy next to me. I’ve taken this journey before and there’s nothing like rolling into Edinburgh and getting your first glimpse of the castle on the hill. This time, however, the scene was dark and groggy as we pulled into Waverly Station, located in the heart of Edinburgh and situated between the Old Town and New Town. (Both included as a UNESCO World Heritage Site)

Upon disembarking from the train, we were hit with just how chilly it was that evening. I’m normally a giant fan of frigid temps (that aforementioned Finnish heritage), but this was some serious, countenance-challenging cold. Granted, I’m sure my worsening sickness (and all it was turning into) was partially to blame for my lack of tolerance, but the cold seemed to reach directly into my bones and squeeze. Our Airbnb wasn’t too far away, so grabbing a taxi seemed silly, but I’ll fully admit to lamenting each step as we slogged our way through the cold. However, since we were surrounded by the stunning winter beauty of Old Town Edinburgh, I was absolutely willing to power through.

For the record, Edinburgh is one of my favorite places in the entire world. I first visited Scotland in 1995 with the intent of working in Edinburgh as part of a university work-study program. (I ended up at a little inn in the Northern Highlands, but more on that later) As I mentioned earlier, there is nothing like rolling into Edinburgh on a sunny day and catching that first glimpse of Edinburgh Castle. I immediately fell in love with the city and those feelings have never since waned. Cold, hot, sunny, stormy – Any time of the year, Edinburgh is one of the most amazing, magical and intriguing places to be found. Adding it’s one of the most artist-friendly cities in the world and deemed one of Europe’s most haunted locales assures there will never be a dull day in Edinburgh.

Piper
Lone piper on the Royal Mile (Photo credit: K. Spoor)

Upon arriving at our very charming flat located directly on the history-laden Royal Mile, our equally charming Airbnb host greeted us with a personal tour of the flat and a lovely gift basket. Scottish hospitality is a wonderful thing and we felt very welcome in our temporary home. Looking out of my bedroom window and finding The World’s End pub located directly across the street was an unexpected bonus. (The World’s End used to mark the edge of the walled-city of the Old Town and was to many of the residents housed inside, the actual world’s end. It also plays into the story-line of Voyager, the third book in Diana Gabaldon’s Outlander series.)

  • Nerd Alert: Outlander is one of the inspirations that originally brought me to Scotland – along with the first Highlander And the Highlander television series. Time traveling and immortal Scotsmen?? Yeah, I was totally on board… Still am, in fact. Additionally, the Outlander series has now been fabulously adapted for television on the STARZ network. Check out this local Outlander guide for a good list of spots to investigate during your Edinburgh visit.

Since our Fortnum and Mason wares had worn off and we were bursting at the seams with the excitement of being in Edinburgh, we dumped our bags and headed up the Royal Mile to find some Scottish cuisine. Also on the agenda was to meet up with our friend, Piotr, who was joining us for the Edinburgh portion of our adventure. He was doing his own UK exploration with further travels in Poland, but had popped into Edinburgh for a few Scottish exploits along the way. Since he had arrived in town earlier in the day, he was able to procure a table at the crowded Deacon Brodie’s on the Royal Mile. (The duplicitous William “Deacon” Brodie inspired Robert Louis Stevenson’s Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde) It’s a bit touristy, but classic and their fish pie and hot toddy were just what I needed to power up in the cold. (It should be noted that Kristen ordered her first meat pie (Of MANY) that night. And okay, I ordered my first hot toddy… (Of MANY) Suffice to say, we were both on personal journeys to hunt down the tastiest versions of each.)

After dinner, we braved the cold (snow was forecast!) and walked up and down the Royal Mile. Famously located at the top of the Royal Mile is Edinburgh Castle. We were planning on an official visit the next day, but wanted to check out its majesty in the brisk, Scottish night. The castle is always beautiful, but under a cold, starry sky, it was positively stunning and foreboding. To think of the near thousand years of history housed within its walls is absolutely mind-boggling. It’s hard to follow up that kind of pedigree, but walking back down the Royal Mile and taking in the activity still taking place along its well-worn cobblestones with adjoining closes, wynds and courtyards was equally remarkable. It’s also home to scores of excellent pubs from which to grab a perfectly poured pint or (another) hot toddy.

HotToddy
The first hot toddy of the trip!

On the topic of hot toddies, I furthered my research with a stop at the pub located on the street level of our flat.  No. 1 High Street is a cozy Edinburgh pub offering classic Scottish cuisine and tasty beverages. They are also more than happy to put your beverage in a to-go cup to add warmth to your outdoor escapades. No. 1 High Street would be our last stop before a much needed sleep, but this was good to note for the next day’s outings.

  • For a more detailed list of pub offerings in Edinburgh, check out the Edinburgh Heritage Pub Trail. (The World’s End is included on the list!)

The sun doesn’t rise quite as late as further north, but it still wasn’t until around 8:30am that light shown on the horizon.  When it did finally make itself known, the morning sky was bright blue and shot through with pinkish-purple clouds. It looked like a cold and lovely start to a full day in Edinburgh.

The first point of business for the beautiful morning was to enjoy a proper fry-up breakfast. I’d very much been looking forward to this for quite some time and was excited to check out our options. As suspected, there was no shortage of possibilities and we settled on a spot near the University of Edinburgh by the name of Brunch & Supper. (Famed University of Edinburgh graduates such as Robert Louis Stevenson, Sir Walter Scott and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle help give Edinburgh its distinct literary flavor.) Following a brisk walk to the restaurant, we met up with Piotr and plotted the day over our tasty breakfasts. I have to say, I’ve greatly missed the hearty fry-up breakfast and it was especially enjoyable on a chilly winter morning.

A few more options for breakfast in the Old Town area:

  • The Inn on the Mile – A lovely boutique inn and restaurant directly on the Royal Mile. Formerly the British Linen Bank – reminds me of Gringotts!
  • The Edinburgh Larder – Cool spot on Blackfriars Street
  • The City Café – 50s-style diner with breakfasts my friends swear by (We tried to go on the day we left, but they weren’t open yet!)
  • The Baked Potato Shop – Okay, maybe not a traditional breakfast, but “jacket potatoes” are delicious any time of the day!

After gorging ourselves on breakfast, a bit of walking around was in order. On every visit to Edinburgh, I’ve wanted to check out The Scotch Whisky Experience (and barrel ride!) located just down from the castle. As Kristen sadly doesn’t like whisky (the horror!), she decided to venture around the city on a photography pilgrimage. (Some of her excellent shots are featured in this article) Piotr, however, was down for some late-morning whisky, so off we went. I mean, come on – we were in Scotland on a brisk winter morning. What frames the picture better than some whisky tasting?  (Pro Tip: Scotch whisky does not contain an “e” in its spelling. Don’t add one. DON’T DO IT. Case in point, if you happen to work at a tiny Highland inn and accidentally drop one in on the daily menu, you could very well be lectured for hours…)

Wow – what a fine way to spend the morning! The tour was very entertaining and educational. It involved riding in a giant whisky barrel while gently winding through whisky-centric presentations and fun displays. Think adult version of the Teacups ride… (Note: The ride is not jarring and you do it before the whisky tasting.) After the ride you get to explore additional displays as well as take in a well done video about the five distilling regions of Scotland and history of single-malts and blended whiskies. (Complete with a corresponding scratch-n-sniff card!) The tour then wraps up with a mini-class on Scotch tasting and a visit to the world’s largest, privately held whisky collection. Housed in a large room, the collection is comprised of several cabinets, stretching floor to ceiling. It was… breathtaking. #WHISKYGOALS

In addition to the tasting and souvenir whisky glass included in the standard tour, we opted to level up and invested in a bonus tasting at the end. (Because why wouldn’t you??) Appointed with a lovely bar, a beautiful view of the city and a fine selection of whisky, it was a great place to put our newly acquired tasting skills to the test. As I was ill and not quite myself – and a bit off in equilibrium – I sadly spilled one of my whiskies on the way up to our table. Embarrassing! (I’d only had ONE dram at that point, so it wasn’t whisky influenced…) The staff, however, was nonplussed and very kind about refilling my spillage. Wasting good whisky is pretty much a Scottish crime and I was very happy they were so accommodating.

In a nutshell, the tour was absolutely worth it and I’d do it again – and it really did aid in my whisky tastings along the course of our adventure. I wish I could’ve fit some of the golden nectar from their extensive gift shop into my luggage as well as checked out their restaurant/whisky bar, but I’ll be back. In the meantime – Slàinte mhath! (The proper Gaelic toast we learned on the tour. It means “Good health!” and is pronounced slan-ja-va.)

After the tour, we were a bit peckish, so we hit up the Café Hub in the Edinburgh International Festival headquarters, just a few doors down from the whisky tour. The Hub, formerly known as the Tolbooth Kirk, is a beautiful old church and dramatic contributor to the Old Town skyline. It was interesting to see the Gothic-style architecture and vaulted ceilings juxtaposed with the modern trappings of a festival and event headquarters. It was quite the lovely backdrop for the tea and scones with clotted cream and preserves we ordered in the café. They were rather tasty and a great way to prepare for the cold walk around the castle grounds.

From nearly every section of the Old and New Towns, it’s possible to catch a glimpse of the amazing Edinburgh Castle, perched high on Castle Rock. The imposing, stunning castle dominates the city, successfully having guarded it from a near millennia of action and upheaval.  I’ve made a point to visit the castle on every trip and am fairly certain I will make time on all future visits. It would be impossible to thoroughly take in everything on one visit, not to mention be completely exhausting. The castle grounds are extensive with winding cobblestone paths that navigate around a fully-functioning town within a town. A beautiful chapel, royal lodgings, military barracks, great halls, a prison/dungeon, the Scottish crown jewels, museums and fortified castle walls with armaments to protect the castle from all sides are some of the highlights of any visit.

After the castle, we walked down the Royal Mile, taking in the scene and visiting various tourist shops. One of the places I’d been curious about on past visits was the Tartan Weaving Mill, located directly across from the castle. It’s a bit of a tourist trap, but it was very cool to see the looms at work making true Scottish tartan. If you happen to be in the market for trinkets and souvenirs, this is a good place to one-stop shop. They also have onsite genealogists to help one trace their Scottish roots and all sorts of wares to aid showing off any heritage you should uncover. Check out the Heritage of Scotland site for an example of the types of textiles offered.

It had been a gloriously sunny day with bright blue skies, but the daylight was beginning to fade and the temperature was dropping. We decided it was time to head “home” to layer up with warmer gear before venturing down to the epic Christmas Market. A beautiful holiday tradition (and FREE!), the Christmas Market is located in the *New Town in the beautiful Princes Street Garden and across from Edinburgh’s quintessential shopping destination, Princes Street. (Not to mention the stellar Scottish National Gallery and the soaring Scott Monument) Taking advantage of the lovely to-go service at the pub downstairs, we stopped in for a hot toddy to help keep us warm on the walk. (It’s a well-known fact hot toddies are good for what ails ye. WELL KNOWN.)

*The New Town isn’t really that new – especially by US standards. It was built between 1767 and 1850.

Even though the temperature continued to drop and we realized how ill-equipped we actually were for the frigid cold, it was a beautiful night to take in all the Christmas Market had to offer. We wandered through the artist’s stalls and holiday vendors, marveled at the beautiful lights and carnival rides and partook of the delicious food and drink offerings throughout the market. There were SO many scrumptious options, including countless stalls selling hot toddies, Glühwein and tasty hot chocolate and coffee beverages. Not only were there delicious Scottish fares to enjoy, there were many vendors featuring food and drink from around the world. I’ll have to say one of the biggest downfalls of being sick was not being able to fully experience all of the amazing tastes and smells. Sigh… Guess I’ll just have to go back!

I normally love winter weather, but given my sickness, the cold seemed extra pronounced and I decided to invest in some warmer gear, right then and there. (I honestly can’t remember the last time I was quite that chilled to the bone – to the point where my feet felt like ice blocks and it was painful to walk… COLD!) In addition to the new hat I’d purchased earlier in the day, I also snapped up a set of lambswool shoe liners from a festival vendor and a toasty pair of fox slippers and lambswool socks from the “TK Maxx” across the street. (Admittedly, we also stepped inside the store to get warm! It was an added bonus they had a good selection of cold weather wear… And it’s not TJ Maxx, it’s TK Maxx.) Once we were all further bundled up, we braved going back into the cold to enjoy more of the festival. Along with some more hot toddy action… Don’t judge me.

The market scene truly was a winter wonderland and although it would be the only time we’d spend in the New Town area during this visit, it was a very worthwhile way to spend the evening. There are so many amazing things to see and do in this part of town and I wish we would’ve had some more time to visit even a few.

Some of the excellent things to check out in the New Town area:

  • Formerly the Nor’ Loch (now drained), the aforementioned Princes Street Gardens are a lovely place to take a stroll. The blooms and blossoms are glorious in the spring and it offers an excellent perspective of the Old and New Towns. The view of the Castle is also unparalleled and taking in the fireworks at the end of the Fringe Festival in August is one of the most amazing things ever. The Scottish Chamber Orchestra sets up in the valley of the park and music is piped around the city as the fireworks explode into the sky and cascade off the sheer cliff face of the castle. AMAZING!
  • The Balmoral Hotel – Even if you just walk in and look around, it’s worth it. A beautiful example of Victorian architecture, the Balmoral is the go-to hotel for swanky lodging and aristocratic hobnobbing. The bar is amazing and the Michelin-star dining is delicious!
  • In addition to the Scottish National Gallery, the Scottish National Portrait Gallery and the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art are beautifully curated and absolutely worth a visit.

National Gallery
Scottish National Gallery in the New Town

  • Close to the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art is Dean Village and The Walkway. An idyllic, peaceful area in a busy city with a rambling 12-mile trek through the area and alongside the Water of Leith.
  • Check out the thriving foodie scene in the waterfront area of Leith. 4-star Michelin restaurants, pubs, bakeries – Leith has it all! Stroll along the lovely waterfront area and look out onto the Firth of Forth and South Queensbury at the mouth of the Water of Leith and marvel at The Forth Bridge. (UNESCO World Heritage Site)

After saying goodnight to the Christmas Market, we trudged back up the hill to the Old Town. (Albeit a beautiful trudge) It was time to consider turning in for the evening as we had a morning flight to Orkney Island and Ms. Sicky McSickerson was very much starting to fade. However, on the way back to the flat, we noticed a Starbucks (so very Seattle of us) and I decided I really needed an Edinburgh “You Are Here” mug to add to my collection.

With my purchase hot in hand, we began to walk back to our lodgings, but noticed a large crowd of people in the street. They appeared to be singing and dancing to a holiday song, ala flash mob – and were coming down the road towards us. We stopped to watch and I walked up a little closer to film the scene with my phone.

They all appeared to be wearing headphones and there were a few people in the front who appeared to be directing the group. One of these pied pipers was looking in my direction and turned back to the crowd and gave some sort of signal. I was just merrily watching the procession when all of the sudden they all started coming directly towards me! I kept filming – and laughing – and sure enough, they came right up to me and gave me a personal performance! It was one of the coolest things I’ve ever witnessed and it made me absolutely and completely happy. It’s making me smile right now, just writing about it!

Before I knew it, they had wrapped up their performance and bid me adieu as they continued, singing and dancing into the Edinburgh night. I learned later they were taking part in a Silent Adventures event, a flash-mob sort of outfit that organizes “silent disco” street tours all over the UK. I will definitely look them up the next time I’m in town!

After ambling back to our lodgings, I settled into my cozy room across from The World’s End. While hazily drifting off to sleep (thank you, hot toddies), I was filled with thoughts of all the spectacular sights, sounds and tastes Edinburgh has to offer.

A few of the amazing places in the Old Town I’ve previously visited and a few I hope to visit on future adventures:

  • Victoria Street is a must-see street. Colorful, winding and filled with cool shops and restaurants, it was JK Rowling’s inspiration for Diagon Alley. Victoria Street is part of the eclectic Grassmarket area. Classic architecture, unique shops and restaurants, the excellent Edinburgh Farmer’s Market and its darker history of being the town’s execution spot make it a fascinating part of town to visit.

  • Greyfriars Kirkyard – Noted as the most haunted cemetery in the world, Greyfriars Kirkyard is a must-visit for numerous reasons. Pay homage to the great loyalty of dogs with a visit to Greyfriars Bobby and his beloved policeman, John Gray. Check out remains of the Flodden Wall, one of the original walls built around the city. (c. 1560, built after the earlier defeat by the British at the Battle of Flodden) Seek out JK Rowling’s naming inspirations amongst the tombstones. (Tom Riddle, (Minerva) McGonagall, (Alastor) Moody)

  • Close to Greyfriars Kirkyard, you can find the stunning George Heriot’s School which is said to be JK Rowling’s inspiration for Hogwarts. Also located nearby are remains of the Telfer Wall, an extension of the Flodden Wall, built between 1628 and 1636.
  • Edinburgh has the reputation of being one of the most haunted cities in Europe with a dark and bloody history. In support of that mantle, there are many locations to investigate. One of the most fascinating – and tragic – is Mary King’s Close. During the Bubonic plague epidemic of 1645, the area was quarantined and many of the residents perished within. Check out The Real Mary King’s Close tour for a chilling journey through the re-opened close and alleyways. Another great way to learn about Edinburgh’s dark past is to join one of the well-done Mercat Tours walking tours.

  • The Writer’s Museum is a fabulous place to celebrate the rich literary history of Edinburgh. (Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson are the focus of the museum) Housed in a ridiculously charming building located down Lady Stair’s Close, it’s a must-visit for lovers of the written word.
  • Located on the opposite end of the Royal Mile from Edinburgh Castle, The Palace of Holyroodhouse is the storied former home of the iconic Mary Queen of Scots and the current queen’s official residence whenever in town.
  • Arthur’s Seat and Holyrood Park – Technically not part of the Old Town, but within somewhat reasonable walking distance, Arthur’s Seat sports one of the best views around. Hike up to the top of this extinct volcano and take in the view of Edinburgh out onto the Firth of Forth and marvel at the centuries of history and expansion.

CastleView2
View of Arthur’s Seat from the castle

In addition to the never-ending list of places to visit and history to explore, one of the things I’ve come to love most about Edinburgh is its support of the Arts and ability to host spectacular festivals and celebrations. I’ve had the great fortune to take in the spectacular Arts festival, the Edinburgh Fringe Festival which takes place throughout most of August (and throughout most of the city) and most recently, the excellent Christmas Market. Running adjacent to the Fringe Festival, the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo is full of epic pageantry and pipes and takes place on castle grounds throughout most of August. Also running during August is the amazing Edinburgh International Festival. If you happen to be around town for New Year’s Eve, be sure to hit up Edinburgh’s Hogmanay with its torchlight procession on December 30th and fireworks and ceilidh in Princes Street Gardens on New Year’s Eve.

Pro Tips: A great way to get around the touristy areas of Edinburgh is via the hop on/hop off bus tours. (Also good if you just want to take a break from walking and listen to the onboard host talk about the city’s history) I enjoy using the Edinburgh Bus Tour to easily check out the Old Town locations in particular. I also highly recommend getting the Historic Scotland Explorer Pass (discounted during winter months) to gain quick access to many of Scotland’s historic locations. (Edinburgh Castle, Castle Urquhart, Skara Brae, etc.) This can be purchased online before you go.

The next morning we were out of our flat before the sun rose, but could tell it wasn’t going to be another sunny day. It was cold, cloudy and the smell of snow was in the air, but we braved the chill for one last Old Town jaunt. As we were departing at noon to Orkney Island, an early breakfast was in order so we headed up the Royal Mile to find something quick and tasty. We met up with Piotr along the way and enjoyed a last breakfast together at the cheery Café Edinburgh. Regardless of my taste buds only partially operating, the Scottish lox with scrambled eggs and croissant was delicious and a good start to the day.

It was sad to say goodbye to Edinburgh, but it was time to go. As we hopped into our Uber to Edinburgh airport, it vaguely started to snow. My body shivered as I pulled down my hat and put on my gloves. I was looking forward to what would hopefully be warmer weather on Orkney Island…

And with that, I bid you a temporary farewell. Join me next time for the exciting conclusion where we battle gale-force winds and sideways rain, bask in the glory of ancient standing stones and Viking homesteads and commune in the land of epic highland fortresses and feral goats. All true stories!

Slàinte mhath!

*Quick link to Part II of my Scottish adventures

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

On a related note of cheers and toasting, I’ll leave you with my standard hot toddy recipe. It was given to me by the chef at the Highland inn I worked at several years ago. I was nursing a bad cold at the time and she swore by a “remedy” she’d learned from her mother. It absolutely did the trick and I now pass it on to anyone with even the slightest case of sniffles. Enjoy – and feel better!

 Hot Toddy

  • 1 healthy shot of good whisky (I prefer a less peaty variety such as Glenfiddich)
  • About a Tbsp of honey
  • A good squeeze of fresh lemon (a tsp or two)
  • Fresh lemon slice
  • 6 oz boiling water
  • A healthy dash of Drambuie (optional)

Add whisky, honey and lemon juice to a sturdy mug. Pour boiling water over ingredients and stir. Add additional whisky and honey to taste and top with a squeeze from a lemon slice – add lemon slice to mug. Nice options are to add a bit of Drambuie and a finishing orange slice rather than lemon…

~And for a nice bit of accompaniment to your soothing hot toddy…

I Ate the State: Scottish Tour of Destiny – The Spotify Playlist

  • It’s Oh So Quiet – Björk (from Post)
  • Untitled #3 – Samskeyti – Sigur Rós (from album () )
  • Prologue – John Williams (from Harry Potter & the Sorcerer’s Stone Original Motion Picture Soundtrack)
  • You Do Something to Me – Paul Weller (from Stanley Road)
  • Then I Met You – The Proclaimers (from Sunshine on Leith)
  • Un Flambeau, Jeannette Isabelle – Loreena McKennitt (from A Midwinter’s Night Dream)
  • God Rest Ye Merry Gentlemen – Loreena McKennitt (from A Winter Garden – Five Songs for the Season)
  • Standing Stones – Loreena McKennitt (from Parallel Dreams)
  • Standing Stones – Jeremy Soule (from The Elder Scrolls V: Skyrim – Original Game Soundtrack)
  • Stonehenge – Ylvis (from Stonehenge – Single)
  • Who Wants to Live Forever – Queen (from Greatest Hits II)
  • Princes of the Universe – Queen (from A Kind of Magic)
  • Outlander – The Skye Boat Song (Castle Leoch Version) – Bear McCreary feat. Raya Yarbrough (from Outlander: Season 1, Vol. 1 – Original Television Soundtrack)
  • Bonny Portmore – Loreena McKennitt (from The Visit)
  • Hedwig’s Theme – John Williams (from Harry Potter & the Sorcerer’s Stone Original Motion Picture Soundtrack)
  • Holding Back the Years – Simply Red (from Picture Book)
  • Whisper to a Scream (Birds Fly) – The Icicle Works (from The Icicle Works)
  • End of a Century – Blur (from Parklife)
  • Stillness in Time – Jamiroquai (from The Return of the Space Cowboy)
  • Birds – Kate Nash (from Made of Bricks)
  • Wings of Speed – Paul Weller (from Stanley Road)
  • I Miss You – Björk (from Post)
  • Svefn-g-englar – Sigur Rós (from Ágætis byrjun)

CastleDaisies
Lovely daisies in December! (Edinburgh Castle)

More I Ate the State Adventures: